Basics Crochet Stitches

and more…

Welcome and Intro to Crochet

At the very core, crochet is the act of pulling loops of yarn through other loops of yarn. You could crochet with your fingers if you wanted to and that's how crochet was done long before hooks were created.

History of Crochet

You and I call it crochet, and so do the French, Belgians, Italians and Spanish-speaking people. The skill is known as haken in Holland, haekling in Denmark, hekling in Norway and virkning in Sweden.

Other forms of handwork - knitting, embroidery and weaving - can be dated far back in time, thanks to archeological finds, written sources and pictorial representations of various kinds. But no one is quite sure when and where crochet got its start. The word comes from croc, or croche, the Middle French word for hook, and the Old Norse word for hook is krokr.

According to American crochet expert and world traveler Annie Potter, "The modem art of true crochet as we know it today was developed during the 16th century. It became known as 'crochet lace' in France and 'chain lace' in England." And, she tells us, in 1916 Walter Edmund Roth visited descendants of the Guiana Indians and found examples of true crochet.

Another writer/researcher, Lis Paludan of Denmark, who limited her search for the origins of crochet to Europe, puts forth three interesting theories. One: Crochet originated in Arabia, spread eastward to Tibet and westward to Spain, from where it followed the Arab trade routes to other Mediterranean countries. Two: Earliest evidence of crochet came from South America, where a primitive tribe was said to have used crochet adornments in rites of

puberty. Three: In China, early examples were known of three-dimensional dolls worked in crochet.

But, says Paludan, the bottom line is that there is "no convincing evidence as to how old the art of crochet might be or where it came from. It was impossible to find evidence of crochet in Europe before 1800. A great many sources state that crochet has been known as far back as the 1500s in Italy under the name of 'nun's work' or 'nun's lace,' where it was worked by nuns for church textiles," she says. Her research turned up examples of lace-making and a kind of lace tape, many of which have been preserved, but "all indications are that crochet was not known in Italy as far back as the 16th century"- under any name.

Tambour gives birth to crochet

Research suggests that crochet probably developed most directly from Chinese needlework, a very ancient form of embroidery known in Turkey, India, Persia and North Africa, which reached Europe in the 1700s and was referred to as "tambouring," from the French "tambour" or drum. In this technique, a background fabric is stretched taut on a frame. The working thread is held underneath the fabric. A needle with a hook is inserted downward and a loop of the working thread drawn up through the fabric. With the loop still on the hook, the hook is then inserted a little farther along and another loop of the working thread is drawn up and worked through the first loop to form a chain stitch. The tambour hooks were as thin as sewing needles, so the work must have been accomplished with very fine thread.

At the end of the 18th century, tambour evolved into what the French called "crochet in the air," when the background fabric was discarded and the stitch worked on its own.

Crochet began turning up in Europe in the early 1800s and was given a tremendous boost by Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere, who was best known for her ability to take old-style needle and bobbin lace designs and turn them into crochet patterns that could easily be duplicated. She published many pattern books so that millions of women could begin to copy her designs. Mlle. Riego also claimed to have invented "lace-like" crochet," today called Irish crochet.

Irish famine spawns Irish crochet

Irish crochet was a virtual lifesaver for the people of Ireland. It pulled them out of their potato famine, which lasted from 1845 to 1850 and threw them into abject poverty.

During these times, living and working conditions for the Irish were harsh. They crocheted between farm chores and outdoors to take advantage of sunlight. After dark, they moved indoors to work by the light of a candle, a slow-burning peat fire or an oil lamp.

A place to keep their crochetwork presented a problem, for many were living in squalor. If they had no other spot it went under the bed where it inevitably became dirty. Fortunately, the crocheted piece could be washed and its original luster completely recaptured. Ironically, buyers abroad were unaware that their delicate collars and cuffs were made in primitive dwellings under poverty-stricken conditions.

Irish workers - men as well as women and children - were organized into crochet cooperatives. Schools were formed to teach the skill and teachers were trained and sent all over Ireland, where the workers were soon creating new patterns of their own. And, although more than a million died in less than 10 years, the Irish people survived the famine. Families relied on their earnings from crochet, which gave them the chance to save up enough to emigrate and start a new life abroad, taking their crochet skills with them.

Potter tells us that the Irish immigrated to America- two million between 1845 and 1859, four million by 1900. American women, busy with their spinning, weaving, knitting and quilting, could not help but be influenced to include in their handwork the crochet skills of their new neighbors.

Tools - the hooks, the material

Techniques for working with a needle -knitting, netting, weaving, twisting, braiding, knotting - have been called by many names throughout history. They include needle-coiling, knotless netting, cross-knit looping, looped needle-netting, vatsom, coptic knitting, naalebinding, Tunisian crochet, tambour, needle lace, lace making, tatting, macrame, sprang and shepherd's knitting.

Throughout the ages, a variety of materials have been used: hair, grasses, reeds, animal fur and sinew, hemp, flax, wool, gold and silver and copper strands, silk, white cotton thread, wool yarns (soft zephyr yam, lustre yarn, double cable yarn, carpet yarn), cotton yarn (anchor and estramadura), silk thread (cordonnet and floss), linen thread, hemp thread, mohair, chenille, novelty mixtures, metal thread and string.

Today we have at our disposal an enormously wide selection of cotton, wool, silk and synthetic yarns. We can also crochet with such unusual materials as copper wire, strips of plastic, sisal, jute, scraps of fabric, unspun wool and even dog hair.

And how about the crochet tool? Today we walk into a yarn shop or Walmart and purchase aluminum, plastic or steel hooks available in more than 25 sizes. In earlier times, however, they used whatever they could get their hands on - fingers first, then hooks made of metal, wood, fishbone, animal bone, horn, old spoons, teeth from discarded combs, brass, mother-of-pearl, morse (walrus tusk), tortoiseshell, ivory, copper, steel, vulcanite, ebonite, silver and agate.

In Ireland at the time of the great famine (1845 to 1850), what at least one person used to produce fine Irish crochet was a needle or a stiff wire, inserted into a cork or piece of wood or tree bark, with the end filed down and bent into a little hook.

What kinds of things were made?

In early centuries, man - and it was the job of the men - created his handwork for practical purposes. Hunters and fishermen created knotted strands of woven fibers, cords or strips of cloth to trap animals and snare fish or birds. Other uses included knotted game bags, fishing nets and open- worked cooking utensils.

Handwork was expanded to include personal decoration for special occasions such as religious rites, celebrations, marriages or funerals. One might see ceremonial costumes with crochet- like ornamentation and decorative trimmings for arms, ankles and wrists.

In 16th century Europe, royalty and the wealthy lavished themselves in lace- trimmings, gowns, jackets, headpieces - and the poor folk could only dream of wearing such things. So, it is surmised, crochet was developed as the poor people's imitation of the rich man's lace.

Moving forward to Victorian times, crochet patterns became available for flowerpot holders, bird cage covers, baskets for visiting cards, lamp mats and shades, wastepaper baskets, tablecloths, antimacassars (or "antis," covers to protect chairbacks from the hair oil worn by the men in the mid- 1800s), tobacco pouches, purses, men's caps and waistcoats, even a rug with footwarmers to be placed under the card table for card players.

From 1900 to 1930 women were also busy crocheting afghans, slumber rugs, traveling rugs, chaise lounge rugs, sleigh rugs, car rugs, cushions, coffee- and teapot cozies and hot-water bottle covers. It was during this time that potholders made their frrst appearance and became a staple of the crocheter's repertoire.

Now, of course, anything goes. In the 1960s and 1970s crochet took off as a freeform means of expression that can be seen today in three-dimensional sculptures, articles of clothing, or rugs and tapestries that depict abstract and realistic designs and scenes.

Techniques yesterday and today

It is interesting to compare crochet methods of the past with those we use today. In the period 1824 to 1833, for instance, it is documented in the Dutch magazine, Penelope, that both the yarn and hook were to be held in the right hand and the yarn passed over the hook from the right forefinger. In crochet books from the 1840s, the hook is held in the right hand and the yarn in the left, as right-handers do today.

In a German publication dated 1847, it stated that one should always "keep the same tension, either crochet loosely or crochet tightly, otherwise an attractively even texture will not be achieved. Moreover, if not working in the round, you have to break off your yarn at the end of each row, since this gives a finer finish to the crocheted article." Today's patterns, thank goodness, usually instruct us to work both the right and wrong sides of the

fabric we are creating. This change came about at the turn of the 20th century.

Researcher Lis Paludan speculates that the admonition to keep the same tension "seems to suggest that crochet hooks were of the same thickness and that the crocheter was expected to work in the correct tension according to the pattern."

Old pattern instructions, dating about the mid-1800s, indicated that the hook was to be inserted into the back half of the stitch only, using a single crochet stitch unless otherwise instructed. Jenny Lambert, a European, wrote in 1847 that inserting the single crochet into the back half of the stitch was useful for making table runners and such, but inserting the hook through both loops could be used "to crochet soles for shoes and other articles which have to be thicker than average, but the technique is not suitable for patterns." Today, of course, unless told to do otherwise, we automatically go through both loops.

Patterns and book

Before patterns were written down, one simply copied someone else's work. Samples were made and sewn onto pages and bound like scrapbooks, sewn onto large pieces of fabric or kept loose in a bag or box. In her travels, author Annie Potter found some of these scrapbooks -dating from the late 1800s- still in use by nuns in Spain.

Another way to collect stitch samples was to crochet different stitches together in long, narrow bands - some made by adults, some begun in school and added on to over the years. (Later on in Europe, from 1916 to about 1926, readers could buy small pattern samples along with their yarn.)

The earliest crochet patterns known to date were printed in 1824.

The earliest patterns were for purses of gold and silver silk thread in colorwork crochet.

Crochet books were found in many countries, often translated from one language into another. The most notable expert on crochet was Mlle. Riego

de la Branchardiere, who published more than a hundred books, many about crochet.

The crochet books from the mid 1800s were small, only about 4 inches by 6 inches, but included woodcut illustrations. These small treasures, Paludan tells us, contained patterns for white lace-like collars, cuffs, lace, insertions and caps for women and children, along with patterns for purses and men's slippers and caps. Materials recommended for white crochet (insertions, edgings, mats, trimming for underwear) were cotton thread, spool yarn (Scottish thread on spools), linen or hemp thread. For colorwork, silk, wool and chenille yarns, as well as gold and silver threads, were suggested.

Those early patterns, which often were not accurate, would drive modern crocheters crazy. An eight-pointed star, for example, might turn out to possess only six points. The reader was expected, it turns out, to read the pattern but to use the illustration as the more accurate guide.

Crochet has many great qualities -- it's fairly easy once you learn the basics, basic materials are inexpensive, and it is way more flexible in it's technique than say knitting or weaving. Since each stitch is worked separately, you really have the control to do whatever you want. In theory, after you learn the basic stitches, you could crochet a cozy for anything without a pattern. I know you're really excited about this!

There are also a couple of drawbacks to crochet. Like I talked about in my story, the fabric can be stiff if not done at the proper gauge, it's definitely more rigid than knitting in that sense and I wouldn't really want to make a lot of clothing out of crochet (even though there are plenty of patterns out there). Crochet uses more yarn than knitting or weaving. All the wrapping and loops to make one stitch is what uses up more yarn. I think this is why crocheters are more likely to use acrylic yarn than knitters. I'll admit that I was a yarn snob when I was purely a knitter, now I'm all about the acrylic!

I'm not one of those knitting-hater crocheters. I'm not going to tell you that you should learn how to crochet because it is so much better than knitting. I think you should learn both. They both have their positives and negatives. Try knitting and come back and it will probably make more sense.

I've already touched on this a little, but the big difference between knitting and crochet is that knitting is done with two needles and crochet is done with one hook. They both use methods of drawing yarn through loops of yarn, but with knitting all the stitches are placed on one needle and you work across the needle. There are only two basic stitches in knitting - knit and purl. There are many variations in order to make the fabric look certain ways, but those two stitches make up all knitted pieces and every row and stitch is the same height.

In crochet, each stitch is worked individually with the hook and there are six basic stitches, (sl, sc, hdc, dc, tr, and dtr) all of varying heights. Since you have the freedom to do one stitch at a time, you have the ability to make every stitch or row a different height. This means you can decide to make something really quick and loose by using taller stitches or tight and slow by using a shorter stitch. The patterns you can create with crochet are really unlike any other fiber-art. You'll understand this more as we go.

Now weaving is often lumped in with knitting and crochet because it is also a fiber-art but it's very different from the two. Weaving uses the warp and weft to interlace the yarns together. It doesn't use loops like knitting and crochet. While all three create fabric, weaving is kind of in it's own league.

Are you ready to turn around from all this writing yet? Don't worry, I promise this is probably going to be the wordiest of the lessons. One of the greatest things about crochet is that it doesn't require a lot of supplies and the supplies you do need are fairly inexpensive.

Depending on what you buy and where you buy it, you can get started for around $10 - $20 even cheaper if you scour the thrift store or free if you steal them from your mom or grandma (ok don't steal them but I'm sure they would be more than happy to hand them over for the sake of the craft).

And while every crocheter will tell you with time that you will start to collect (read: hoard) more yarn and supplies getting started doesn't require a huge investment.

So here's what you'll need: a crochet hook and some yarn. (I suggest an H or I hook and worsted weight acrylic for this class) Ok ok, you could throw in some scissors and a blunt yarn needle, but most of us already have those laying around.

Crochet Hooks Basics

Crochet hooks are pretty ingenious little tools. Have you ever crocheted with your fingers? If so, you’ll know how hard it is to get your stitches uniform.

It’s pretty fun. Can you imagine doing all crocheted projects with your fingers though? It would be horribly time consuming! That’s why crochet hooks are so great. This little tool not only has a hook to help you maneuver the yarn through stitches but it also has a way to make sure all your stitches are nice and neat and all the same size.

Do you know what the name of these parts are? I didn’t until I had been crocheting wrong for a year or two.

Of course the Hook actually has a hook.

The tip of a hook is pointy and rounded so the hook can easily be inserted into a stitch, but not split the yarn.

The throat of the hook is generally smaller to give room for the arch of the hook and the movement of the yarn.

The shank is the part of the hook that determines the size of the stitch (or the gauge). This is the most important part of the hook and where the hook size is measured. When we start talking about stitches, I’ll show you how to crochet correctly in order to make sure you use the shank to it’s full potential.

The thumb grip is just what it’s called -- The place where you grip the hook. It’s really important that your hand doesn’t travel any further up the hook than here. If you reach the shank, you’re doing it wrong.

The rest of the hook is called the handle. Some crochet hooks have bigger handles than others for comfort purposes, but the run-of-the-mill hook has a handle about the same size in diameter as the shank.

The size of the hook is determined by the diameter of the shank which is measured in millimeters. Most US hooks are marked with letters and the small steel hooks are marked with number sizes but sometimes they like to get confusing and give the lettered hooks a number too (which match up with knitting needle sizes), it’s just easier to look for the metric size to be safe or to use a needle or hook guage to measure the size yourself.

Here is a conversion chart of the metric size and the letter or number equivalent of the most common hooks. Since the lettering system was created, there have been hooks come on the market for in-between sizes. These just have the millimeter size on them or a number, and do not have a letter.

The Two Most Popular Methods of Holding a Crochet Hook

1. Knife Method or Over-the-Hook Method:

It is just like it sounds... hold your crochet hook the exact same way you hold your knife while cutting food.

Make sure your thumb and middle finger are grasping the thumb-rest and the crochet hook's handle is resting against your palm.

Look below at some entertaining pictures of how to hold your hook using the knife method - I hope they are entertaining at least!

Left Hand Holding Crochet Hook Right Hand Holding Crochet Hook

2. Fork Method or Under-The-Hook-Method:

This method is also called the pencil method, but I personally like any terminology that deals with food a lot better.

Hold your crochet hook the same way you hold your fork while eating. Make sure your thumb and forefinger are griping the thumb-rest, and

the handle is resting on the fleshy area above your forefinger (see video for clear demonstration).

Tip: When first learning how to hold a crochet hook your hands can become cramped if you don't have the right grip, so keep adjusting and try different methods until the hook feels right in your hand.

Remember there is no set rule to holding a hook and you really need to find what works for you.

Yarn Basics

Before you ever start a project, it’s important to pick out the perfect yarn and hook for the project. And while most patterns give a suggested yarn and hook size, it’s always a great idea to know enough about picking out yarn to make substitutions.

While a yarn shop is an obvious place to get yarn, not everyone has one close by. Craft stores are great places to find mass produced yarns. Big yarn brands include: Bernat, Caron, Lion Brand, Patons, and Coats and Clark. Even some big craft store chains have their own yarn lines as well (Michaels’ is “Loops and Thread” and Hobby Lobby’s is “I love this yarn”).

Stores like Walmart and some discount dollar stores even carry limited choices of yarn. And of course you can also shop on-line, although I wouldn’t suggest shopping on-line until you know a little about the yarn you’re buying.

Remember, when you shop on-line there’s always a chance the yarn won’t feel like you expected it to, or will be a little off in color.

I'm not going to tell you exactly where to shop or what yarns to buy. That's up to you. Picking out yarn is definitely going to relate to your personal tastes. I like a smooth, soft yarn with a wide array of colors to choose from.

Other people may only want wool in neutral colors. Just check out the shopping options available to you and work from there.

Yarn is traditionally spun into a really thin thread called a single ply, which is then twisted with other singles to make bigger yarns. This used to be more universal and a 4-ply yarn meant a certain weight of yarn and a 3 ply was thinner and so on.

However, now single plies could be thick or thin so yarn is categorized by overall thickness. The standard yarn weight system is now categorized by a series of numbers 0-6 shown in the chart below.

This is a sample of the yarns from each of these categories

If this seems confusing now, don’t worry, the more time you spend with yarn the more you’ll get it. Also, every pattern book and crochet magazine you read will have all of this information in it in some way so It will eventually get ingrained into your brain.

Yarn Meets Hook

The day has finally come! You have your hook, you have your yarn, and now we get to put them together. This is a very special time in the life of a crocheter. Take a moment of silence or celebratory whoop if you need to.

A crochet slip knot is important to master because it is the first step taken when beginning any crocheted piece.

When you decide to crochet a simple dishcloth or an elaborate gown, a slip knot will be your starting point.

There are several variations a crocheter can use when making a slip knot, and in this lesson I am going to demonstrate three commonly used techniques because everyone's style is different.

Here are a few tips before getting started:

Start your slip knot by pulling 6 to 8 inches of yarn from the skein (ball of yarn).

The working end of yarn comes from the skein, and the tail end of yarn is the yarn being used or worked. (illustration below)

If you get stuck or dislike any technique being shown, move on to the next technique and find something that works for you!

The names used for these techniques are names that I have made up for teaching purposes and not considered to be a part of crochet terminology.

1. The Pretzel Technique

I call this the pretzel technique because you shape the yarn into a pretzel before making your crochet slip knot.

Step 1: Take the tail end of yarn and loop it over the working end of yarn.

Step 2: Pull and fold the tail end of the yarn toward the back of the loop making a pretzel shape.

Step 3: Insert your hook through the first loop of the pretzel.

Step 4: Pull the loop through the pretzel making your crochet slip knot.

2. The "X" Technique

I call this the X technique because you shape the yarn into an X shape before making your slip knot.

Step 1: Take the tail end of your yarn and wrap it around your index and middle fingers.

Step 2: Continue to cross the tail end of your yarn over the top of your fingers once more making the letter X.

Step 3: Push the yarn through the first loop being careful not to push too far causing the entire tail end to come through.

Step 4: Pull your middle and index finger out of the X loop and grab the working and tail end of yarn. Tighten to create you crochet slip knot.

3. The Flip Technique

Step 1: Take the tail end of the yarn and loop it over the working end of the yarn. Do this by holding the yarn or lying it on a flat surface.

Step 2: Pull the loop and flip it over the working end of the yarn.

Step 3: Place hook in dominant hand and slid it under the working strand of the yarn that is under the loop.

Step 4: Pull the working end of the yarn through the loop with your crochet hook and this will create your slip knot.

Here are some helpful tips if you are still having trouble

When you are finished making your crochet slip knot make sure it is not too tight or too loose. This will make the following steps difficult to accomplish later on.

If your slip knot is too tight use a larger hook, or pull on the working end of the yarn while your slip knot is still on your hook. By pulling on the working end of the yarn your slip knot will loosen up.

If your slip knot is too loose pull on the tail end of the yarn while your slip knot is still on your hook and this will tighten it up.

If you find the working end of the yarn tightening instead of loosening, and the tail end loosening instead of tightening your slip knot don't worry about it!

If you are wondering how to hold yarn for crochet, the first rule is there are no rules! So in short, do whatever feels right when holding your yarn.

Now I realize that you probably have never crocheted before, and if this is the case, allow me to show you some popular techniques before you decide which way is best for you.

Here are a few tips before getting started:

The yarn is placed in your less dominant hand. The yarn hand feeds the yarn to your hook while you crochet, and this

is why it is important to find a holding style that works best for you so that you are comfortable while crocheting.

The yarn hand controls the tension of the yarn being fed, and determines how tight or loose your finished project will be.

This may not make sense at the moment, but once you actually start crocheting these tips will become more clear.

Techniques

Side Note: While I teach you how to hold yarn for crochet, I like to give names for the different yarn holding techniques that I demonstrate.

So bare in mind the names I have created for the techniques used are not typically used for crochet terminology purposes.

1. The Pinky Hold Technique

Step 1: With palm facing down bring the tail end of your yarn up between your little finger and ring finger. (demonstration below)

Step 2: Wrap the tail end of your yarn around your little finger forming a loop around your pinky finger.

Step 3: Bring the tail end of the yarn over the top of your hand.

Step 4: Allow your thumb and forefinger to grip the yarn for control.

2. The Loose Yarn Technique

This technique is similar to the pinky hold technique, but this time you are not going to wrap your little finger with the yarn.

Step 1: With your palm facing down pull the tail end of the yarn up through, and in-between your little finger and ring finger.

Step 2: Continue to pull the yarn over the top of your hand catching it with your thumb and forefinger for control.

3. The Forefinger Hold Technique

In this technique the forefinger (index finger) will be doing most of the work for you.

Step 1: With palm facing down bring the tail end of the yarn up through your little finger and index finger.

Step 2: Continue to bring the yarn over the top of your hand looping it around your forefinger (index finger).

If you come up with your own technique when learning how to hold yarn for crochet that works too. Start out by using the methods that I have shown you as a guideline, and then break off and try something different.

Tip: The important thing to remember is to always be comfortable while crocheting. If your hand starts to cramp up when you are using a certain style stop using that style and try something different.

When you're new to crochet... the crochet chain is the first stitch you need to learn when starting your very first project.

The reason for this is because the chain stitch is the foundation for crochet, and almost every pattern begins with a chain stitch.

In fact the chain, or chain stitch is technically called a foundation chain, although many beginners to crochet don't realize this yet!

But now that you know the word foundation chain is the correct crochet terminology, you will now be able to identify what patterns and fellow crochet friends are talking about in the future!

How to Make the Crochet Chain (Foundation Chain)

The Steps:

Step 1: Make a slip knot.

Step 2: Place the slip knot onto the hook.

Step 3: Yarn Over... yarn over is a term all crocheters use, and it is an important term to know because it is the first movement you make to the yarn with your hook before creating any type of crochet stitch - this includes the crochet chain.

How to Yarn Over

Yarn Over is very simple: All you do is wrap the yarn over your hook from back to front, or in other words push the yarn away from your hook before grabbing hold of it with the hook's throat.

Yarn Over is abbreviated (yo). This will become more important to you when you start reading patterns.

The Picture below is showing Step #3: What yarn over looks like.

Step 4: Rotate the hook until it is facing down, or toward the slip knot.

The picture below is showing Step #4: Rotate the hook down.

Step 5: Pull the yarn through the loop the on your hook, and this creates the first chain.

Chain is abbreviated (ch)... Again this will become more important when you begin reading patterns.

The pictures below show Step #5: Pull the yarn through the loop.

To create more chains continue this process by using the yarn over, and pull through the loop techniques. Keep going until your desired chain length is accomplished.

Chaining Tips

Tip 1: As the crochet chain (foundation chain) gets longer continue to move you fingers up the chain to keep control.

Tip 2: Each chain should be the same size, so make sure your tension on the yarn is the same for every chain you make.

Tip 3: If your stitches are tight and you find that you can't pull the hook through the stitch... you need to relax your hands more.

Tip 4: If your stitches are loose, make sure your grip on the yarn and hook is little tighter... you may also want to bring your yarn hand and hook hand closer together to shorten the distance between both hands.

Counting Chain Stitches

When you have finished your chain... you may not be sure how many chain stitches you've just created.

Start by counting the first stitch that is right underneath the loop on your hook, and continue by counting the "V" shaped stitches all the way to the beginning of your chain.

Here is a Tip for Counting Stitches:

Never count the loop that is still on your hook when counting your stitches, and never count the slip knot.

In the image below notice how each chain looks like the letter "V".

The Single Crochet Stitch

The single crochet stitch is considered to be the most commonly used stitch in crochet... so it makes sense that you should learn this stitch first.

Single crochet is abbreviated (sc) – UK (Double Crochet) Important to know for pattern reading.

Steps for Single Crochet:

Step 1: Make a foundation chain by chaining 30 stitches (ch 30). See picture of step #1, foundation chain below.

Step 2: Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook. Make sure you insert your hook into the top loop only.

There should now be two loops on your hook.

Step 3: Yarn over (yo) your hook. Do this by wrapping the yarn over your hook from back to front, or in other words push the hook under the yarn strand, and then pivot the yarn toward you until the hook is facing down.

The yarn should now be on the hook's throat

Step 4: Pull the yarn through the first loop on your hook.

This will again leave you with two loops on your hook.

Step 5: Yarn over (yo) again by wrapping the yarn over your hook once more.

Step 6: Pull the yarn through both loops on your hook.

This will leave you with one strand of yarn on your hook, and will also complete your first single crochet stitch (sc)!

Make sure to continue with this exact same stitch pattern throughout your entire chain.

By the time you are done you should have (29 sc) in a row.

Tip: If you are wondering where stitch #30 went, just remember that you skipped the first chain on your hook, so that means only 29 single crochet (sc) are needed to complete the row.

This is what your single crochet row should look like when it is finished.

How To Single Crochet Into The Next Row

Step 1: Chain 1 (ch 1).

Remember when you chain you... yarn over and then pull through the loop on the hook.

There should now be one loop on your hook.

Step 2: Turn your work.

Turn your work around by bringing it toward you.

Step 3: Insert your hook into the first single crochet stitch.

Tip: The top of the stitch on a single crochet looks like the letter "V", and this is where you want to insert your hook.

There will now be three loops on your hook because the (sc) stitch is made up of two loops.

Step 4: Yarn over (yo).

Step 5: Pull the yarn through the stitch on your hook.

This means that you should only pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook. Remember the first two loops make up the single crochet stitch.

There should now be two loops on your hook.

Step 6: Yarn over (yo).

Step 7: Pull the yarn through the two loops on your hook.

There will now be one loop left on your hook, and your first single crochet is finished.

Go ahead and finish this row by following steps 1 through 7.

The Half-Double Crochet Stitch

The half double crochet is a stitch that is fun and easy to learn, and it looks great in hats and headbands because of its snug stitching. The abbreviation for this stitch is (hdc) – UK (Half Treble Crochet).

Half Double - First Row

Foundation Chain: To learn this stitch start by chaining 20, (ch 20).

Step 1: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 2: Place your hook into the 3rd chain from your hook.

Tip: When placing the half double stitch into the foundation chain, you will always want to place this stitch into the 3rd chain from your hook. You will end up with the original 2 loops over the hook with the 3rd loop from the chain.

Another Tip: Always enter your hook into the top loop of the chain unless the pattern you are following requires something different.

Step 3: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 4: Draw the yarn through the chain. You will now have 3 loops on your hook.

Step 5: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 6: Draw the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook.

Congratulations you have just completed your first half double stitch! Now continue placing this stitch into the rest of the foundation chain.

Half Double - Second Row

Step 1: Chain 2, and turn your work around, (ch 2).

Tip: When using this stitch you will always want to chain 2 when moving up a row. Remember the chain 2 counts as your first stitch and is also considered to be the turning chain.

Step 1: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 2: Place the hook into the second stitch.

Tip: Always skip the first stitch and place your first half double crochet into the second stitch. This is because the turning chain counts as your first stitch.

Tip: The stitch that you will be working in is made up of two strands of yarn. The stitch looks like the letter 'V'... V = Stitch.

Step 3: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 4: Pull or draw the yarn through the stitch. There will now be 3 loops on your hook.

Repeat steps 5 through 6 from the first row.

The only difference is that you will be crocheting into the stitch rather than the foundation chain.

Tip: When finishing your rows remember to work your last stitch into the turning chain.

The Double Crochet Stitch

The double crochet stitch is the second most common crochet stitch. It consists of two single crochet stitches in height, but it is not quite as tight as the single crochet stitch. The double crochet is a beautiful stitch that looks great in blankets, hats, scarves, and sweaters.

The double crochet is abbreviated (dc) – UK (Treble Crochet). This is important to know for pattern reading.

Double Crochet - First Row

Foundation Chain: To learn this stitch start by chaining 20, (ch 20).

Step 1: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 2: Insert your hook into the 4th chain from your hook.

Tip: When you start a crochet project using a foundation chain, you will always want to place your first double crochet into the 4th chain from your hook.

Tip: Always enter your hook into the top loop of the chain unless the pattern you are following requires something different.

Step 3: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 4: Pull or draw the yarn through the chain. There will now be 3 loops on your hook.

Step 5: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 6: Pull the yarn through only the first 2 loops on your hook and not through the last loop. The first two loops will become part of the stitch leaving the newly created loop on the hook and the last loop that you didn't pull the yarn through. There will now be 2 loops on your hook.

Step 7: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 8: Pull the yarn through the last 2 loops on your hook, and your first double crochet is now complete.

Now finish placing all of your double crochets into the foundation chain!!

Double Crochet - Second Row

Step 1: Chain 3, and turn your work around, (ch 3,).

Tip: When double crocheting you will always want to chain 3 when moving up a row. Remember the chain 3 counts as your first double crochet and is also considered the turning chain.

Step 2: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 3: Insert the hook into the second stitch, not the first stitch.

Tip: When double crocheting into your second row, and all of the rows that follow... you will always want to skip the first stitch and place your first double crochet into the second stitch. This is because the turning chain counts as your first double crochet.

Tip: The stitch that you will be working in is made up of two strands of yarn. The stitch looks like the letter 'V'... Stitch = V.

Step 4: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 5: Pull or draw the yarn through the stitch. There will now be 3 loops on your hook.

Repeat steps 5 through 8 from the first row.

The only difference is that you will be crocheting into the double crochet stitch rather than the foundation chain.

Final Tip: When finishing your rows remember to work your last double crochet stitch into the turning chain.

The Treble Crochet Stitch

The triple crochet stitch abbreviated (tr) – UK (Double Treble Crochet), is also called the treble crochet stitch. The term triple is commonly used in the United States, but if you hear the word treble you will now understand its meaning.

The triple crochet is great stitch that is commonly used for a more relaxed crochet project. The reason for this is because it produces a more loose, see-through type effect. I personally love using the triple crochet for weaving ribbon in and out of its stitches... but I have also seen it used for loose sweaters, shawls, and scarves.

Triple/Treble Crochet - First Row

Foundation Chain: To learn this stitch start by chaining 15, (ch 15).

Step 1: Yarn over the hook 2 times, (yo twice).

Step 2: Place your hook into the 5th chain from your hook.

Tip: When placing the triple/treble crochet stitch into the foundation chain, you will always want to place this stitch into the 5th chain from your hook.

Another Tip: Always enter your hook into the top loop of the chain unless the pattern you are following requires something different.

Step 3: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 4: Pull or draw the yarn only through the chain you just entered. There will now be 4 loops on your hook.

Step 5: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 6: Only pull the yarn through the first 2 loops on your hook. There will now be 3 loops on your hook.

Step 7: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 8: Only pull the yarn through the next 2 loops on your hook. There should now be 2 loops on your hook.

Step 9: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 10: Pull the yarn through the last 2 loops on your hook.

Good job... you have now completed your first triple crochet! Now Finish placing this stitch into the foundation chain and then move on to the second row.

Triple/Treble Crochet - Second Row

Step 1: Chain 4, and turn your work around, (ch 4).

Tip: When triple crocheting you will always want to chain 4 when moving up a row. Remember the chain 4 counts as your first triple crochet stitch, and is also called the turning chain.

Step 2: Yarn over the hook 2 times, (yo twice).

Step 3: Place the hook into the second stitch. Remember you already have your first stitch because you chained 4.

Tip: The stitch that you will be working in is made up of two strands of yarn. The stitch looks like the letter 'V'... V = Stitch.

Step 4: Yarn over the hook, (yo).

Step 5: Pull or draw the yarn through the stitch. There will now be 4 loops on your hook.

Repeat steps 5 through 10 from the first row.

Tip: Remember that on the second row and all of the rows that follow you will be crocheting into the stitch rather than the foundation chain.

Weave in Yarn Ends

Learn how to weave in yarn ends so that your finished crochet project looks spectacular!

Add a Yarn Needle to Your Crochet Supplies!

Now is the time to add a yarn needle to your crochet supply kit. A yarn needle is a needle with a big eye and a blunt point. It is ideal for weaving in yarn and makes a great addition to your crochet supplies.

If you don't have the needle right now there is no need to worry... just go out and get one when you can.

When working with the yarn needle weave the tail end of yarn in and out of your projects crochet stitches. Not only do you want to weave in and out of the stitches, but also make sure to weave back and forth throughout the same stitches. This will help keep those ends from falling back out.

Picture = Step 1: Weave the yarn ends through the stitches on the top of your project.

Picture = Step 2: Weave the yarn ends through the middle of your project for a more secure hold.

Tip: In the video tutorial I demonstrate how to weave loose yarn ends through the entire stitch, but another great way to do this is by only weaving the ends through half the stitch instead of the whole thing. You may feel this will work better and stay in tighter in the long run.

Practice using both examples and you will find what works best for you!

How to Change Color in Crochet

Tip: I am using the single crochet stitch in this demonstration, but remember the guidelines are the same for any crochet stitch that you use.

Step 1: When changing color at the beginning or end of a row you never want to complete the last stitch. Instead you will want to work your last stitch to the last two loops on your hook. Remember this goes for any other stitch used as well!

Step 2: Fold the new yarn color in half by leaving 4 to 5 inches of yarn on the tail end.

Step 3: Pinch the two ends together at the top by using your thumb and index finger.

Step 4: Place the new yarn on your hook and pull the new color through the two loops on your hook.

Step 5: Cut the first color's attached strand of yarn leaving 4 to 5 inches of yarn attached.

Step 6: Pull on both the old and new tail ends, or loose strands of yarn to secure the new color into place.

Step 7: Chain 1 with the new color.

Step 8: Turn your work around and hold the loose strands together at the back of your work. Now crochet over the two loose strands 4 to 6 times before cutting the loose strands with your scissors.

Repeat this process when you change to another color.

If you are following along with this lesson...place four more rows of the new color into your dishcloth.

After you place the new rows, follow steps 1 through 8 and change to a new color again.

Increasing and Decreasing in Crochet

First, let’s start with increasing. This is a crochet technique that is used to make the width of your project wider.

A project is made longer by adding more rows, but it is made wider by adding increasing stitches. An increasing stitch is simply two of the same stitch in one space.

So, for example, I have chosen to use working in the round as my example for you, because it is one of the most common projects in which there are increasing stitches.

Working in the round is one of the most important techniques to master in crochet as you can make hats, flowers, dolls, clothes and more

Picture #1 – Chain 3, slip stitch to form a ring. Chain 2, 11 double crochet in the ring (for a total of 12 double crochet)

Picture #2 – This is an increasing round where we work 2 double crochet stitches into each space.

Picture #3 – Shows the completed round 2 which is an increasing round. Picture #4 – This is another increasing round, but different from round 2.

Chain 2, double crochet in the same space (so it looks like 2 double crochets have been worked). Now work just 1 double crochet in the next

stitch. 2 double crochets in the next. 1 in the next. Repeat the 2, 1 pattern all the way around.

Picture #5 – Shows the almost finished round 3.

If you continued this circle, you would typically add one increasing stitch (2 of

the same stitch, in this case, a double crochet) one time less each round. So,

round 4 would be: 2 DC, 1DC, 1DC. Round 5: 2 DC, 1DC, 1DC, 1DC

Single Crochet Decrease

Now let’s move on to decreasing. Decreasing is important to learn in order to

make things like ear flaps on a winter hat and clothing. There are different

techniques for both single, half double and double crochet, and I have a

photo tutorial for each of them for you! In each example, we’re going to

make a triangle together. So, come follow along!

Photo #1 – Chain 12. In the 2nd chain from the hook, work a single crochet. Work 1 single crochet in each stitch all the way down. Row 2 – Chain 1. (We’re going to begin a decreasing stitch. You’re going to start the single crochet but not complete it the same way.) So, insert your hook into the first space and pull up a loop. There should be two loops on your hook

Photos #2 to #3 – Leave the two loops on the hook and insert the hook into the next space and pull up a loop. There are now 3 loops on your hook.

Photo #4 – Yarn over, and pull through the first two loops. There are two loops remaining.

Photo #5 – Yarn over, and pull through the last two loops. Finished! See how there is only one space now for two stitches?

If you continue, the rest of row 2 will be to single crochet in the next 6

stitches, then work another decrease in the last two. (8 total stitches)

Row 3: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work a single crochet in the next 4 stitches, then work a decrease with the last two stitches. (6 total stitches)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 single crochet in the next stitch, work a decrease in the last two stitches. (4 total stitches)

Row 5: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 single crochet in the last stitch. (2 total stitches)

Row 6: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the last 2 stitches to complete!

Half Double Crochet Decrease

Photo #1 – Chain 12. In the 2nd chain from the hook, work a half double crochet. Work 1 half double crochet in each stitch all the way down. (10 half double crochet total) Row 2 – Chain 1. (We’re going to begin a decreasing stitch. You’re going to start the half double crochet but not complete it the same way.) So, yarn over and insert your hook into the first space and pull up a loop. There should be 3 loops on your hook

Photo #2 – Leave the 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and insert the hook into the next space.

Photo #3 – Now pull up a loop. There are now 5 loops on the hook.

Photo #4 – Yarn over, and pull through the first 3 loops. There are 3 loops remaining.

Photo #5 – Yarn over, and pull through the last 3 loops.

If you continue, the rest of row 2 will be to half double crochet in the next 6

stitches, then work another decrease in the last two. (8 total stitches)

Row 3: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work a half double crochet in the next 4 stitches, then work a decrease with the last two stitches. (6 total stitches)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 half double crochet in the next stitch, work a decrease in the last two stitches. (4 total stitches)

Row 5: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 half double crochet in the last stitch. (2 total stitches)

Row 6: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the last 2 stitches to complete!

Double Crochet Decrease

Photo #1 – Chain 13. In the 3rd chain from the hook, work a double crochet. Work 1 double crochet in each stitch all the way down. (10 double crochet total) Row 2 – Chain 2. (We’re going to begin a decreasing stitch. You’re going to start the double crochet but not complete it the same way.) So, yarn over and insert your hook into the first space and pull up a loop. There should be 3 loops on your hook

Photo #2 – Yarn over and pull that loop through the 3 loops. There are now two loops remaining.

Photo #3 – Yarn over, and insert the hook into the next space and pull up a loop. There are now 4 loops on the hook.

Photo #4 – Yarn over, and pull through the first 2 loops. There are 3 loops remaining.

Photo #5 – Yarn over, and pull through the last 3 loops.

If you continue, the rest of row 2 will be to double crochet in the next 6

stitches, then work another decrease in the last two. (8 total stitches)

Row 3: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work a double crochet in the next 4 stitches, then work a decrease with the last two stitches. (6 total stitches)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 double in the next stitch, work a decrease in the last two stitches. (4 total stitches)

Row 5: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the next 2 stitches, work 1 double crochet in the last stitch. (2 total stitches)

Row 6: Chain 1. Work a decrease in the last 2 stitches to complete!

Learn How to Finish a Crochet Project

This lesson will teach you the importance on how to finish a crochet project. So if you are wondering what to do with your loose yarn ends now that you are done with your work...

Finishing a crochet project will be one of the easiest lessons that you will follow in this series because there is only one action that you need to complete.

The only concern: Make sure you leave enough yarn at the end of your project for weaving in.

This means when you are finished with your project and you are ready to make the first cut... PLEASE make sure you leave at least 4 to 6 inches of yarn left onto your project for weaving.

Picture = Step 1: Leave at least 4 to 6 inches of yarn and then make your cut with the scissors.

If you don't have 4-6 inches of yarn after your cut... you will end up with a little strand of yarn sticking out of your work and you will not be able to weave it closed... AND you will be sad with the finished results.

Tip: With that said... it is also important to start your project with a 4 to 6 inch strand of yarn as well. This means before you create your first slip knot when starting your project, prepare to leave 4-6 inches of yarn sticking out of the knot. This will also be used for weaving at the end of your project.

After you make your finishing cut all you need to do now is use your crochet hook to pull the loose end of yarn all the way through the last loop that is on your hook. Pull the yarn strand tight with your fingers and that is all there is to this lesson!!

Picture = Step 2: Use the crochet hook to pull the loose end of yarn all the way through the last loop on the hook.

Picture = Step 3: Pull the yarn strand tight with your fingers.