basic photography report
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BASIC PHOTOGRAPHY
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HISTORY
The word photography was first used by the scientist Sir John F.W.Herschel in 1839.
It comes from the French photographie which is based on theGreek (phos) light + (graphis) stylus / paintbrush
or (graph) representation by means of lines / drawing,together = drawing with light.
Photography is the science and art of recording images by means ofcapturing light on a light-sensitive medium, such as a film or
electronic sensor. Light patterns reflected or emitted from objects
expose a sensitive silver halide based chemical or electronicmedium during a timed exposure, usually through a photographiclens in a device known as a camera that also stores the resulting
information chemically or electronically.
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THE PINHOLE The Chinese were the first people that we know of towrite about the basic idea of the pinhole camera. About
2,500 years ago (5th Century BC) they wrote abouthow an image was formed upside down from a
"pinhole" on the opposite wall.
About 2,400 years ago (4th Century BC) the famousGreek philosopher Aristotle talked about a pinhole
image formation in his work.
He wondered why "when light shines through a
rectangular peep-hole, it appears circular in the form ofa cone?"
He did not find an answer to his question and theproblem was not answered until about 1600 years later
in the early 1000s AD.
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CAMERA OBSCURA The invention of the camera obscura is attributed to
the Iraqi scientist Alhazen and described in hisBook of Optics (1011-1021). English scientists
Robert Boyle and Robert Hooke later invented aportable camera obscura in 1665-1666. In the
1500s many artists, including Michelangelo andLeonardo da Vinci, used the camera obscura to
help them draw pictures.
This drawing below, made in 1652, shows an outershell with lenses in the center of each wall and aninner shell with transparent paper for drawing. The
artist entered by a trap door in the bottom.
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HELIOGRAPHY In 1816 Frenchman Nicephore Niepcemade a
crude wood camera fitted with a microscope lens.
He invented Heliography around 1826, which he
used to make the earliest known permanentphotograph from nature
Louis Daguerre: Daguerreotype
Louis Daguerre (1789 - 1851), in collaboration withNicephore Niepce, invented the first practical
photographic process in 1837 which was widely
used in portraiture until the mid 1850s.
http://www.nicephore-niepce.com/http://c/Users/malen/Downloads/photography/photography_pg2.phphttp://c/Users/malen/Downloads/photography/photography_pg2.phphttp://c/Users/malen/Downloads/photography/photography_pg2.phphttp://c/Users/malen/Downloads/photography/photography_pg2.phphttp://www.nicephore-niepce.com/http://www.nicephore-niepce.com/http://www.nicephore-niepce.com/ -
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CONTINUATION
A brass plate coated with silver was sensitized byexposure to iodine vapor and exposed to light in a
camera for several minutes.
A weak positive image produced by mercury vaporwas fixed with a solution of salt.
In 1839 the French government purchasedDaguerre's French patent and offered the
daguerreotype as "a gift free to the world". Daguerre, however, did maintain control of the
patent throughout the rest of the world.
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HENRY FOX TALBOT - CALOTYPE In 1839 William Henry Fox Talbot presented a
paper to the Royal Society of London describing his
invention, the calotype.
This paper negative process, although producingan image inferior in quality to the daguerreotype,
had the great advantage of allowing multiple copies
to be made. Current film-based photography is
based on the same principle.
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CARTE DE VISITE Photographic "visiting cards" were invented by
Andre Adolphe Eugene Disderi in 1854.
They were usually an albumen print mounted onto
card.Albums for the collection and display of cards
became a common fixture in Victorian parlors.
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AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY The first aerial photograph showing the Place de l'
Etoile, Paris, was taken by Gaspard Felix
Tournachon (aka Felix Nadar) in 1858.
It was shot from an altitude of 520 meters in atethered balloon.
Dry Plate Photography
Dr Richard Maddox discovered a method of usinggelatin instead of glass as the plate material for the
light-sensitive solution.
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CONTINUATION
This discovery led to the invention of dry platephotography, a less cumbersome process that didnot require the photographer to use a darkroom
tent for immediate plate development as had been
required by wet plate processes.Eastman Kodak Camera 1888
George Eastman introduced celluloid based film in1884, and the small portable easy-to-use box
camera in 1888. Photography could now reach themasses: once the 100 shots on the camera had
been taken, the camera was sent back to Kodak forfilm processing, new film was loaded, and the
camera was returned ready-for-use to the owner.
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TWIN LENS REFLEX CAMERA
The TLR camera has two objective lenses of the
same focal length. One of the lenses is the
photographic objective (the lens that takes the
picture), while the other is used for the waist-levelviewfinder system. The fixed mirror deflects the
light rays coming through the lens to a top screen,
which shows the image upright but laterally
reversed. Light from the object also goes throughthe taking lens, which is mounted on a common
panel with the viewing lens, and is projected on the
film. (1994 Encyclopaedia Brittanica, Inc.)
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RANGE FINDER CAMERA
In 1913 a German design engineer, Oskar Barnack,
produced a prototype 35mm camera. In 1924 thecamera went into production at the Leitz factory in
Germany. It was called the Leica from the initials of
"LEItz CAmera".
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SINGLE LENS REFLEX FILM CAMERA
Pentax Medium Format 6x7 SLR from the 1980s.
Used 120/220 roll film and featured an
electronically-timed focal plane shutter andinterchangeable lenses and prisms.
Asahi's first model, the AsahiflexI, went into
production in 1952, making it the first Japanese-
built 35mm SLR.
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CONTINUATION
The historic Contax S (1949), the first pentaprism
SLR for eye-level viewing.
The first 35mm SLR, the Ihagee Kine Exakta,produced in 1936, had a left-handed shutter
release and rapid film wind thumb lever, folding
waist level finder and 12 to 1/1000th second focal
plane shutter.
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DIGITAL SINGLE LENS REFLEX CAMERA
The basic operation of a DSLR is the same as a
SLR. For viewing purposes, the internal mirror setat a 45 degree angle reflects the light coming
through the lens up at a 90 degree angle into a
pentaprism where the image is inverted so it can be
seen through the viewfinder the right way up.
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CONTINUATION During an exposure, the mirror swings up, the
aperture stops down to the selected size, and the
shutter opens exposing the electronic sensor
placed on the focal plane to light. At the end of theexposure, a second shutter closes back over the
sensor, the mirror drops back into place, and the
first shutter resets.
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BEGINNERS GUIDELINES TO SIMPLE PHOTOGRAPHY
There are 3 things that affect your image quality in
photography; ISO, aperture and shutter speed. All 3of these things depend on one other factor which is
light. A photograph is basically a chemical process
in which light is exposed to film, or a sensor in
digital cameras, and registers an image.
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CONTINUATION
Theres a device in the camera called the diaphragm, whichis directly connected to aperture. The different aperturesettings are called f-stops, and are represented by thenumbers you see on the image. The larger the number,
the smaller the aperture, so for example, an f-stop of f1.4would be very large, while an f-stop of f16 would be very
small. Typically, most consumer lenses have a range of f2to f16. Dont be overwhelmed by the technical terms andnumbers and things like that, once you try everything out
on the actual camera, it will all start to make sense. WhenI first went over the module on this it was all gibberish to
me, until I actually took some pictures trying all thedifferent settings. Thats when it all made perfect sense.
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Now, usually a faster shutter speed will require a larger apertureto allow enough light into the camera, and a slower shutter speedwill need a smaller aperture to prevent too much light from gettingin. You see, shutter speed is how long the shutter is open to allow
light into the camera. Shutter speed is always measured inseconds. To demonstrate the effect of ISO, see the below image.Each photo was taken at 1/250th of a second, and the apertureset to f5.6, while the ISO was changed. The ISO is simply how
sensitive the film, or censor in a digital camera, is to light. Thelower the ISO is, the less sensitive it is to light. The higher theISO is, the more sensitive it is to light. You can see from the
photo, that at 100 ISO, the picture is quite dark. At 400 ISO, thepicture is better, and at 1600 ISO, the picture is far too bright.
Depending on the ISO you are using, your shutter speed will have
to be adjusted to allow the right amount of light for what you wantto achieve.
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The more light that is available, the faster yourshutter speed can be. The type of light will also
change things, but that gets more complicated. All
light has a temperature in degrees Kelvin, which
also affects things. I wont get into that yet, as its a
little more advanced.
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Now, lets talk a little about why shutter speed is
important. Its pretty simple, actually. The faster your
shutter opens and closes, the less you have to worry
about a blurry image. For most people, a shutter speed of
1/60th of a second is the slowest you can hand hold the
camera before experiencing blur due to camera shake. If
you are photographing a still object, or a slow moving
object, a fast shutter speed isnt as important. If you arephotographing a fast moving object, a fast shutter speed
suddenly becomes a necessity most of the time. Now
remember, the higher the ISO, the more sensitive the
film/censor will be to the light. So one might think its bestto always use the highest ISO possible, right? The correct
answer is; sometimes. In the next image we see
something new, called grain.
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Grain is essentially how nice your photos look. Most ofthe time, you wont be able to tell the difference in grain at
standard print size of 4x6. However, if you ever have aphotograph youd like to enlarge, ISO suddenly becomes
very important. The higher the ISO, the grainier yourphoto will look. Below I cropped just the face of an image,one at 100 ISO and the other at 1600 ISO. The first photolooks smoother, while the second looks, well, grainy. Most
consumers wont need to be making a lot ofenlargements, so this doesnt always matter. But even anamateur will sometimes get that one perfect shot they just
would love to hang on their wall. Unfortunately, if thatperfect shot was taken with a high ISO film, or using a
high ISO setting on a digital camera, the size of theenlargement will be limited before it starts to look bad. Ifind for the average every-day John and Jane Q. Normal,
400 ISO is best. It gets more complicated of course ifyoure looking at it from a professional level, and I may
get into that another time.
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Most likely, in the first frame, your eye is attracted to the figurine.This is because the back round is blurred, and unobtrusive. In thesecond frame still focused on the figurine, but a little distracted. Inthe last frame, your eye was probably drawn first to the red box,and when you look at the figurine, youre distracted by the box inthe center. So as you can see from the pictures, depth of field is
essentially the area in front and behind the object that is in focus..
Each photo was taken with the same ISO, but both the shutter
speed and aperture were changed. As you can see, the backround became less blurred the smaller the aperture. The entiretime I kept focused on the figurine. Anything in front of, or behindthe figurine would appear blurry. You can set things up howeverso that your depth of field is infinite (to a degree) and everything
is sharp. The further away something is, the more infinite the
focus can be. The closer it is, the more limited that becomes. Forexample, if taking a macro photo of a small insect, you can havethe insect in focus, but no matter what lens or camera you have,you can focus on both the insect up close and mountains in thedistance. The closer something is, the more limited the depth of
field will be.
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Depth of Field is probably the most confusing tobeginners, because reading about it can be complicated,
as there are many different factors that will affect yourdepth of field. For example, a telephoto lens will have amore sensitive depth of field, while a wide angle lens willbe less obvious. Its easiest to tackle this one factor by
taking your camera out and just trying the differentaperture settings and distances from objects. Some
cameras will have a depth of field preview button, that will
show you in the viewfinder how the depth of field will look.This is a very helpful function to have, but if not, trial and
error must be used for the beginner.
The best thing to do is buy or rent an old, fully manual filmcamera. The biggest problem most beginners face is the
ease of automatic features. Buying a fully manual cameraforces you to learn these beginner concepts, which willaid greatly in how all you photographs will look in thefuture. My 2 favorite manual cameras are the Pentax
K1000 and the Canon AE-1 (But do not get the Canon
AE-1 Program, as it is largely automatic if you want it tobe).
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The settings for all these functions will be available
on most digital cameras, not just SLRs. Chances
are if your camera is 3 megapixels and up, it will
have the right functions. Youll have to consult yourmanual for help on where to find them and how to
set them on your camera however.
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TERMINOLOGIES Aperture: The lens opening that changes in
diameter,thereby determining how much light passesthrough to expose the film.
Aperture Priority Setting: An exposure setting takenwith a camera where the photographer chooses the
aperture setting and the camera sets the shutterspeed for proper exposure. If the photographerchanges the aperture, the camera automatically
changes the shutter speed to match. Aperture Ring: The ring located on the outside of the
lens, usually behind the focusing ring. It controls thesize of the aperture opening.
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Auto Exposure Bracketing: A camera option that
automatically sets the exposure of the film to varied
shutter speeds and/or aperture settings.
Autofocus (AF) System: A common system on
SLR cameras where the camera lens automatically
focuses the image using a selected part of the
picture. Automatic Camera: A camera with a built-in
exposure meter that automatically does the work of
adjusting the aperture, shutter speed, or both for
proper exposure.
Automatic Setting or Program Exposure: An
exposure setting where the camera sets both the
aperture setting and shutter speed for proper
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Finder or Viewfinder: The area on the camera
where the photographer views the subject area that
will be recorded on the film.
Fixed-Focus Lens: A non-adjustable camera lens,
which is set for a fixed distance.
Flash: A brief, intense burst of light from a bulb or
flash unit. F-Stop or F-Number: A number that indicates the
size of the aperture lens opening such as f/1.4, f/4,
f/5.6, f/16, and f/22. The larger the f-stop number,
the smaller the lens opening. F-stop determines
your depth of field.
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Focal Length: The distance, as marked on the
lens, between the film and the optical center of the
lens when the lens is focused on infinity. The
distance is often listed in millimeters, such as
50mm.
Focal-Plane Shutter: The shutter system oncameras with a built-in lens. When the shutter is
pressed an opaque curtain containing a slit moves
directly across in front of the camera film, exposing
the film.
Focus: The act of adjusting the focus setting on a
lens in order to sharply define the subject.
Hot Shoe: The area on a camera that holds a small
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Image Stabilization or Vibration Reducing: A
lens with an internal system to detect camerashake and compensate for it.
Internal Flash. A flash integrated into the body of
the camera, usually on the top.
Lens: Optical glass or a similar material thatcollects and focuses light to form an image on film.
Lens Hood or Shade: An attachment located at
the front of a lens to keep unwanted light fromstriking the lens and causing image flare.
Light Meter or Exposure Meter: An instrument
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Light Meter or Exposure Meter: An instrument
that measures the light reflected from or falling on
an object for proper exposure. Cameras often have
an internal light meter but external light meters aremore effective.
Macro Lens: A lens which changes the perspective
to focus from an extremely close distance to infinity.
Manual Focus: The process of setting the focus
using the focus ring on the lens instead of using the
camera's auto-focus system.
Manual Setting: An exposure setting where theaperture setting and the shutter speed are both set
by the photographer. It gives the photographer
more freedom in choosing shutter speed and depth
of field when composing.
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Motor Drive or Continuous Mode: An electronic
mechanism that advances the film to the next frame
and continues taking photographs. Continuous
mode is often used in Sports Photography.
Normal Lens: A lens that does not change the
perspective of the image like a telephoto or wide-angle lens.
Reflector: Any device which reflects light onto a
subject.
Shutter Blades: A movable cover in a lens that
controls the aperture setting and the time when
light reaches the film.
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Shutter Priority: An exposure setting taken with a
camera where the photographer chooses the
shutter speed setting and the camera sets theaperture for proper exposure. If the photographer
changes the shutter speed, the camera
automatically changes the aperture to match.
Single-Lens-Reflex (SLR) Camera: A camera inwhich you view the scene through the same lens
that takes the picture.
Soft Focus Lens: A special lens that creates soft
outlines in the image.
Telephoto Lens: A lens which changes the
perspective to make the object appear closer.
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Time Exposure: An exposure that takes seconds
or minutes to complete.
Tripod: A three-legged support that holds thecamera steady.
Unipod: A one-legged support that holds the
camera steady.
Wide-Angle Lens: A lens which changes theperspective to make the objects appear in a wider
field of view.
Zoom: A lens which changes the perspective like atelephoto or wide-angle lens. The zoom, though,
has a wide range of focal lengths, allowing the
photographer to change the perspective from close
in to far away.
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EXPOSURE TERM
Bracketing: The process of taking a series of
photographs of the same subject through a range
of exposures, both lighter and darker, to insure a
correct exposure. Some SLR cameras havesettings that allow automatic bracketing.
Film Speed: Your choice of film speed as reflected
in an ISO number.
Highlights: The brightest areas of a subject.
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ISO Number: A rating of the film's sensitivity to
light. The higher the number, the more sensitive or
"faster" the film; the lower the number, the lesssensitive or "slower" the film.
Overexposure: The washed-out, overly bright
areas of a photograph due to too much lightreaching the film.
Shutter Speed: The duration for which the aperture
will remain open. On an SLR camera the shutter
speed can be adjusted. The numbers represent
either seconds or fractions of a second. For
example, 1 = 1 second, 15 = 1/15 second, 60 =
1/60 second, etc.
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Tone: The degree of lightness or darkness on
a print.
Underexposure: The muddy, dark areas of a
photograph due to too little light reaching the film. White Balance: A function on the camera that
compensates for different colors of light being
emitted by different light sources.
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LIGHTING TERMS
Ambient Light: The natural, available light in ascene.
Backlighting: The light coming from behind thesubject.
Bounce Lighting: Light that is bounced off areflector to give the effect of ambient light.
Diffuse Lighting or Soft Lighting: Lighting thatis low or moderate in contrast.
Existing Light: Any available light regardless oftime of day and at any location.
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Fill Flash: A technique to brighten dark shadow
areas, often used when the subject is located in thedark shadow.
Fill-In Light: Light added to the existing light by
use of a lamp, flash or reflector.
Frontlighting: Light shining from the direction ofthe camera toward the subject.
Sidelighting: Light shining on the subject from the
side relative to the camera, often casting longshadows.
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EXAMPL
ES
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AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY
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DAGUERREOTYPE
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DRY PLATE
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WET PLATE ERA
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THE END!!