barcelona metropolitan issue 195

April 2013 Nº 195 Free

01 cover.indd 1 3/19/13 11:38:49 AM

main pages Oct 2011 .indd 11 9/20/11 2:24:40 PM

main pages Dec 2012.indd 7 11/20/12 11:39:55 AM

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Founder Esther Jones Managing Director Andrea Moreno Acting Senior Editor Lynn Baiori Art Director Aisling Callinan Account Executives Richard Cardwell, Dan White-head Design Assistant Michaela Xydi Editorial Assistants Said Saleh, Megan Schuman, Hannah Webb Sales Administrator Carol Moran Sales Assistant Mehdi Chabi, Christopher Murphy Contributors Petra Barnby, Jonathan Bennett, Michael Eaude, Roger de Flower, Nick Lloyd, Tara Stevens, Nicola Thornton, Karen Swenson, Helen Vass Photographers Richard Owens, Lee Woolcock, Michaela Xydi Cover photography Jasna Boudard Illustrator Ben Rowdon

Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; [email protected]: [email protected]. General enquiries: [email protected]. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest distribution point on www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

From the Editor: In case you were wondering, that’s me on the cover. Now that

I’ve got your attention…I take my leave of the editor’s seat

and hand the reins back to Hannah Pennell, who returns this

month as Senior Editor. I wish to express my sincere thanks

to Hannah for placing her confidence in me, thus giving me

the chance to test my creativity, speed and endurance in the

role of Metropolitan’s editor while she was away. Thanks to

the staff for their support and friendship. And thanks to you,

dear readers, for being the inspiration for the work we do at

Metropolitan.

About this issue, we’ll be taking you from the little explored

side of Montjuïc’s past and pay rememberance to the real and

literary victims of the fascist dictatorship; heading out of the

city for a springtime ride, from bike trails, to horse trails; peek-

ing behind the curtain of the Liceu. Plus listings, fun facts, arts

and shopping. And, okay, that’s not me on the cover. But I’ll

be here at Metropolitan to lend a hand with future issues. So

it’s not goodbye but fins aviat! Lynn Baiori

APRIL Contents

FeAtuRes18 Horse culture

24 Fossar de la Pedrera

30 Mercè Rodoreda

ReguLARs06 Inside Look

07 Around Town

08 Fact-checker: Montjuïc

11 Recipe: White loaf

12 Making Plans

23 Design: Fabio De Minicis

29 Interview: Nick Hill

32 Escape the City

34 Gastronomy

50 Back Page

DIReCtoRIes37 Food & Drink

40 Business

48 Jobs

13

30

4. contents.indd 1 3/21/13 11:49:04 AM

main pages Apr 2013.indd 6 3/21/13 11:48:15 AM

06 THIS MONTH

Barcelona is the place where I fell in love.

I never miss getting a fresh fruit juice when I pass by the Boqueria

market (kiwi is my favourite).

I always avoid going out on rainy days. Barcelona is a place of

sunshine.

A view As beautiful as the city is, my favourite view remains that

of the Mediterranean sea. It’s fantastic having the beach so close

to the city.

A building The Sagrada Familia is easily the most awe inspiring

building in Barcelona. I can’t wait to see it finished!

An inspiration The hint of Modernism throughout the city is

phenomenal. Every corner has beautiful details of this inspiring art

movement.

A place to go with friends The Parc de la Ciutadella on weekends,

when all the jugglers and musicians come out to play.

On my to-do list See a concert at Palau de la Música and the Liceu.

About the cover Aside from travel photography, I shoot a variety of

other subjects, my favorite being portraits. It is a lovely experience

to produce art with someone else, especially my friends. The

woman on the cover image is my best friend from Texas, posing in

front of the beautiful church at Plaça de Sant Pere.

An inside look Photographer Jasna Boudard www.jasna-boudard.com

It’s hard for me to say where I am from. I was born to a French

father and a Bangladeshi mother. My name is Polish. I lived most

of my life in Texas, and a few years in Morocco, New York and

now Barcelona. As you can see, I have constantly travelled from

an early age and now feel more appropriate saying that I am

from the world. It is a place of endless discoveries, and I starve to

experience and share them. This is where my photography comes

in. I have been an artist all my life. I used to spend countless

hours drawing and painting, modelling, dancing and performing

circus arts… But none of them were the right outlet for my

creativity. I had to find a method to capture moments at the

same speed that they were happening. When I started modelling,

I was introduced to a camera’s ability to produce art in a fraction

of a second. I was sold. I picked up photography as my medium

and turned the world into my canvas.

6-7. cover.indd 6 3/21/13 11:50:37 AM

THIS MONTH 07

Best in restBUDDA BAG achieves the enlightened way to relax

There’s something warmly intriguing about this

little shop, discreetly tucked along the narrow

thoroughfare of Gràcia’s Torrent de l’Olla. A rainbow

painted across its entranceway invites you into

a small fantasy of comfort. Growing like magic

mushrooms, large multi-coloured puffs fill the

space. Shopping for home furnishing has never been

so playful.

Budda Bag is an original alternative to the typical

living room seating. Unlike a sofa, it is fun and

temptingly comfortable. The bag adapts to your

body, moving with you as you recline. There are six

sizes to choose from, everything from small and

cosy for kids, to the gigantic Mega Budda, which

easily holds three reclining adults. There is a wide

range of colours and fabrics to choose from, all

removable, interchangeable and washable. It’s a

great way to decorate a new flat or add colour and

comfort to your current flat.

The staff is friendly and helpful. Sit and try a bag.

There’s no pressure to buy, but you will easily be

seduced by the temptation to take one home. BUDDA BAG Torrent de l’Olla 46 (Metro: Diagonal)www.buddabag.es

AroUnd toWn

6-7. cover.indd 7 3/21/13 11:50:39 AM

08 THIS MONTH

(ALMOST) ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT: MONTjUïc

A brief history.Barcelona’s most famous mountain, Montjuïc, offers a stunning view of the city from 173 metres above the Mediterranean Sea. Montjuïc, meaning ‘Jewish Mountain’ in Catalan, is a beacon in the historical landscape of Barcelona, signifying both the suppression and success of Catalunya. At the peak of the mountain is the Castell de Montjuïc, or Montjuïc Castle, and over time, Montjuïc became home to other timeless landmarks that are trademarks of the Catalan culture. With a long history of oppression, death and revolt, this castle is worth digging a little deeper into to understand the impact both the mountain and the past events have had on Catalunya as we know it today. The first castle, built in 1640 during a revolt against Felipe IV at the beginning of what became the Reapers’ War, was a simple stone fortress constructed in just 30 days. It wasn’t until 1694 that it was made into a castle and the walls were reinforced just in time for the War of the Spanish Succession (1701-1714), when Barcelona and the castle were conquered by the Bourbon troops. The castle began to take its present shape in 1751 when the old fortress of 1640 was demolished and a large moat, zig-zag walls, room for 3,000 inhabitants and 120 artillery canons were added. Yet, the conquering and retaking of the castle was not nearly finished—in 1808 it was captured by Napoleon’s troops. Then in the late 1800’s, the castle became a military prison. Between 1936 and 1938, 173 people were executed, one of them being the president of the Generalitat de Catalunya, Lluís Companys, on October 15th, 1940. Until 2007 when the castle was officially given to the city as a cultural site, locals had mixed feelings about the mountain’s bloody history and recognised icon of suppression. Yet, today, the castle is restored and parts of it are open to the public.

Where to go.In addition to being an important site in Catalan history, Montjuïc Castle presents spectacular views of Barcelona and the Mediterranean, but it is not the only attraction that Montjuïc has to offer. After taking in the panoramic view provided at the top, head down the mountain to the Fundació Miró. The building, designed by Josep Lluís Sert, offers an extensive look at the work of Joan Miró. Wander through the outdoor courtyards and terraces while you contemplate the sculpture garden. Numerous picnic areas, botanic gardens and walking trails along the mountain offer an easy and relaxing release from the noise and hustle or the city. Enjoy a picnic at the Mirador del Migdia, with picnic tables ready and a chill out-bar with terrace, La Caseta del Migdia. Montjuïc is also home to the National Art Museum of Catalunya (MNAC), and its impressive collection of Catalan art. From the Palau Nacional you have a prime spot to take in some of the best views of the city.

How to get there. The Funicular of Montjuïc from the Paral•lel metro station is a quick train ride up the hill that can take you to a stop as far as the Olympic Stadium, the Miró Foundation and the Jardín de Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer. Another option is the Montjuïc cable car which is a four person gondola lift, going all the way to Montjuïc Castle. There are two bus services: Line 150 (Pl. Espanya – Montjuïc Castle, via Av. Estadi and Av. Miramar) or line 13 to the Olympic Stadium (where it connects with lines 55 and 150).

qUicK fAcTS- The peak of Montjuïc is 173 metres above the port

below it.

- Montjuïc Castle was built by the Bourbons on the

remains of a fort dating back to 1640.

- The Castle was restored for the Olympic Games in

1992 and large parts of it were made accessible to

the public again.

- The Magic Fountain evening shows offer water

acrobatics and lights which generate over 50 kinds of

shades and hues.

- Around 2.5 million people visit Montjuïc every year.

8-9. Fact checker.indd 6 3/21/13 1:11:51 PM

>>

THIS MONTH 09

METROPOLiTAN PEOPLE Q. WHAT BOOk WOuld yOu Give yOur lOver fOr sAnT jOrdi dAy?

nAMe: TOMus frOGOCCupATiOn: Club promoterfrOM: UKAnsWer: I would give my current lover an English for beginners book because she currently doesn’t speak much English.

nAMe: GABrielA nOrBerGOCCupATiOn: Fashion Editor frOM: SwedenAnsWer: If I had to give my lover a book for Sant Jordi, I would pick Mafia. It is very interesting and also educational rather than just a fictional novel.

nAMe: elisABeTH rOBinsOnOCCupATiOn: StudentfrOM: CatalunyaAnsWer: I would most likely give my lover the book Blanca com la neu, vermella com

la sang because I love the story line.

8-9. Fact checker.indd 7 3/21/13 1:11:56 PM

10 THIS MONTH

SitgeS hotelAvenida Sofia Hotel & Spa, Avinguda de Sofia 12, SitgesT. 93 811 3500 www.hotelavenidasofia.com

In the centre of Sitges, just 100 metres

from the beach, rests the Avenida Sofia

Hotel & Spa. It is the first European hotel

to receive the Leed Platinium Certificate

for environmental sustainability, and

everything from the building’s energy

efficiency and air quality to its sustainable

gardening makes it a model of forward-

thinking, eco-friendly hospitality. The

hotel offers full-service amenities.

There’s something addictive about the

overwhelming amount of spa treatments,

relaxation pools and therapeutic

alternatives. As if you weren’t already

convinced, consider their signature

combination of rituals, therapeutic and

beauty treatments to improve your health

using the riches of nature. Try any of the

services such as the deep tissue massage,

aromatherapy treatment, the sensation

shower, or take a dip in the relaxation pool.

Now, all you have to worry about is trying

to tear yourself away from this nearby

oasis.

Beyond the Blue horizon

Be inSpiredThe Sitges Quarterly www.thesitgesquarterly.com

www.facebook.com/thesitgesquartely

Following a long, literary tradition, The

Sitges Quarterly was launched last year.

Beautifully designed and thoughtfully

written, the SQ offers its readers a

perspective on the town’s history, its

present happenings, while keeping a sharp

eye on the future of Sitges. Each article is

presented in English, Catalan and Spanish,

an effort made by the SQ team, which

demonstrates their commitment to anyone

who has a desire to know more about the

rich culture and diversity of this fascinating

village. Editor-in-Chief Cheyenne Crump

travelled the world before settling in Sitges,

and his love of and devotion to his adopted

home is evident. The magazine is printed

on environmentally responsible materials;

feature writers and photographers are

intimately familiar with the history and

landscape; and the calendar of events is a

clear guide to Sitges’ happenings.

This April 15th, with the launch of the

Sitges Quarterly Magazine App, you can

download the culture, history and events

guide to Sitges to stay up to date and

connected. Available in the Apple App

Store, on Google Play, for Android phones

and tablets, the Windows Phone Store and

BlackBerry App World.

www.thesitgesquarterly.com

www.facebook.com/thesitgesquartely

Now as the first breeze of spring comes in off the

Mediterranean, it is the perfect time to take advantage of the

easy proximity to that jewel of the Costa Daurada, Sitges. In

less than 40 minutes by train, it makes for an easy day trip. But

Sitges has much more to offer than a day at the beach. It has

been for many years the spiritual home of artists and poets,

and its treasures are easily discovered if you take the time to

wander the winding lanes of this paradise. At night, the city

turns on its lights, offering as much for the soul-searching

traveller as it does the nature-lover or the party-seeker. Before

the crowds get as thick as the summer heat, we offer two

options to help you to know Sitges a little more intimately this

season.

10-11. City + recipe.indd 6 3/21/13 11:58:54 AM

THIS MONTH 11

Helen Vass is a British baker based in Barcelona. She runs a popular blog, The Diary of a Cake Maker www.thediaryofacakemaker.com. She is a self-taught baker and has been baking for 20 years. As well as writing recipes and sharing her baking passion on the web, Helen teaches baking classes in various locations throughout Barcelona.

IngredientsIngredients

500g strong white flour

1 sachet dry fast acting yeast

300ml tepid water

1 tsp salt

1 tsp sugar

1 tsp vegetable oil

1 egg (to glaze the loaf)

Method

In a large bowl place the flour, salt, yeast and sugar. Mix

together and make a well in the centre. Add the oil and

the tepid water. Make sure the water is not too hot or

it will kill the yeast. Mix the ingredients together until a

dough has formed. Take the dough out the bowl and start

kneading on a floured work surface. Knead for around 10

minutes and then leave to prove in a bowl brushed with a

little oil to prevent the dough from sticking. Cover with a

tea towel and leave to prove until the dough has doubled

in size.

Once the dough has doubled, take out the bowl and knock

back the air. Knead for around a minute and then place

the dough in a 2lb loaf tin. Leave to prove until it has

doubled in size.

Pre-heat the oven to 220º C. Beat an egg and using a

pastry brush, glaze the dough with the beaten egg. Place

in the oven and bake for around 30 minutes. To test the

loaf is ready, the bottom of the loaf should sound hollow

when tapped. Leave the loaf to cool on a wire rack. Serve

with lashings of butter!

BAKE & WIN!To win a Silikomart Whoopie pie mat.

(www.silikomart.com), post a photo of your

White Loaf on Helen Vass’ Facebook page, The

Diary of a Cakemaker. Helen will choose a winner to be

posted on her page.

recipe White loaf

10-11. City + recipe.indd 7 3/21/13 11:58:57 AM

12 MAKING PLANS

MAKING PLANSA few suggestions about things to do tonight, this weekend, later on...

D-IVE on in D-IVE: Mobile Photography Festival Disseny Hub. April 19th-21st. www.d-ive.comThe D-ive mobile photography festival has one-of-a-kind workshops, thematic photowalks, lectures and the ultimate exhibition of photos taken with mobile phones. See art, improve your own skills, explore Barcelona behind the lens and discuss international trends within the new phenomena of mobile photography. This weekend-long fes-tival will be taking place at Disseny Hub Barcelona. Ever wondered about the Instagram revolution, mobile photography as a tool for journalists or just love taking photos with your mobile phone? Whe-ther you’re new to Barcelona or not, the series of photowalks will also provide sightseeing opportunities and local environments that are picturesque and unique to Barcelona. All information and tickets are available at www.d-ive.com

Cinematic funFestival Internacional de Cinema D’Autor de Barcelona. April 25th-May 2nd www.cinemadautor.catThe Festival Internacional de Cinema d’Autor de Barcelona is screening an international selection of contemporary cinema, ranging from brand new talent to established, well-known directors. This festival has positioned itself as one of the best cultural events of the spring in Barcelona. It will present to the public more than fifty of the best independently produced films from around the world. There will also be a feature of the career of Claire Denis, a prominent figure in European cinema. The screenings can be viewed at Aribau Espacios Cine Club, The Filmoteca de Catalunya and CCCB for just €7.

12-15. Making plans.indd 6 3/21/13 12:19:41 PM

MAKING PLANS 13

Palace pleasuresPeek into the Palau Robert for a range of exhibitions this Spring as well as the tourist office for local guidebooks and sightseeing tour information.www.gencat.cat/palaurobert. Passeig de Gràcia 107

20 Years of LUX Prizes. Until April 28th.The Association of Professional Photographers of Spain and Pa-lau Robert present a collection of winning photographs from the last 20 editions of the LUX prizes. See works from Spain’s best photographers and learn about the history of the LUX awards.

Visit Wales. Until April 30th.Coinciding with St. David’s Day —the patron saint of Wales —this exhibition illustrates the history, culture, sporting traditions, cast-les, cities, villages and landscapes of Wales.

Born to Múúú. Doctor Music, 30 Anys. Until May 12th.Born to Múúú presents a collection of images, historical posters, concert tickets and more, documenting the legendary concert promoter, Doctor Music, as well as the evolution of live music. Since the Eighties, Doctor Music has been committed to bringing live music to the public— concerts have included Tina Turner, Michael Jackson, U2, Prince and David Bowie.

Jaume de Laiguana. Photography Exhibition. Retrospective 1997-2012. Until May 26th (pictured) The retrospective features 158 large-format photographs taken over the last 15 years to illustrate de Laiguana’s professional career, personal vision of art and clear social engagement. The exhibition includes photographs and videos illustrating de Laiguana’s approach to his work.

Rumour has itEl cuadro de la Calleja Julia Montilla. Until April 21st. Fundació Joan Miró www.fundaciomiro-bcn.orgJulia Montilla’s exhibition, El Cuadro de La Calleja is a unique illustration of investigation—an analysis of visual and written recordings documenting divine sightings. In June 1961, four girls from the small Cantabrian village of San Sebas-tian de Garabandal, claimed to see San Miguel announcing the upcoming visit of the Virgin Mary, who then appeared to the girls in the beginning of July. Montilla presents evidence from the supposed sightings of the Virgin Mary, the pilgrima-ge of Catholics to this town centre and the visions experienced by the children.The exhibition compiles research that delves into gender, tradition and popular imagery as well as the construction of religion and artificial faith.


MAKING PLANS 15

Up on stage Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona

Nacho Vegas – Saturday 6th at Teatre Barts

Tori Sparks – Saturday 6th at Honky Tonk Blues Bar

Javier Vargas and Raimundo Amador – Monday 8th

at Luz de Gas

Radiosepia – Saturday 13th at Carders Bar

Veto – Saturday 13th at Music Hall

Stay – Saturday 13th at Sala 2 del Apolo

Rammstein – Sunday 14th at Palau Sant Jordi

Johnny Winter – Wednesday 24th at Teatre BARTS

Madelin Peyroux – Thursday 25th at Palabra Musica

Sophie Hunger – Friday 26th at Sala Apolo (pictured)

Dorian – Saturday 27th Sala Apolo

Eels – Saturday 27th at Teatre Barts

Expo Comic 31st Salón Internacional del Cómic de Barcelona. April 11th-14th. Fira Montjuic Exhibition Center. www.ficomic.comMore than 150 exhibitors and nearly 110,000 visitors are expected at Barcelona’s international comic fair. Events include cultural activities, exhibitions, conferences, workshops and opportunities to meet international comic authors. Also showcased will be recent developments by Microsoft, Xbox 360 and Nintendo. The general ticket is €7. For Catalunya’s public library or/and Carnet Jove holders the ticket price is €5.

Muse Ticket GiveawayEstadi Olímpic Lluis Companys. June 7th 2013. Metropolitan is giving away two tickets to the much anticipated Muse concert this coming June. Twice winner of Best Live Act at the BRIT Awards, Best Alternative Act at the MTV Awards and honoured with a Grammy Award for best album of the year, MUSE is one of the most highly aclaimed acts on today’s music scene. Known for their extravagant and energetic live perfor-mances, MUSE puts on a show not to be missed. To enter the ticket giveaway, keep an eye on Metropolitan’s Facebook page this month. And go to Metropolitan’s website at www. barcelona-metropolitan.com and the May magazine for more information on Muse.


main pages Apr 2013.indd 3 3/19/13 1:03:30 PM

The Liceu’s history matches the drama of its performances. By Karen Swenson

A sense of magic bonds the hushed audience as the dimming lights flush the curtain a deeper crimson. Over two thousand people breathe as one in the embrace of the Liceu’s golden

horseshoe as the conductor’s baton falls and the curtain rises. The elegant curve of that horseshoe is uninterrupted by a royal box. This lack is part of the Liceu tradition. The theatre, built in 1847 by the wealth of 19th-century Barcelona, is a haut bourgeoisie creation, independent of royal funding. When it opened it was the biggest house in Europe, patrons bought shares of from one acción to seven acciones, which granted them seats and boxes, the later often lav-ishly decorated, to be handed down to their heirs. These were called the banyeres, the bathtubs. The 4th and 5th balconies—the cheap seats—were nicknamed the galliner, the henroost.

But the Liceu, despite plush beginnings, has over its almost two hundred year history survived political instability, hard economic times and fires with a resilience that would please its original mer-chant founders. The first fire was in 1861. In 1893, two bombs thrown by anarchists, on the season’s opening night during the second act of William Tell, exploded in the stalls killing twenty people. In 1931, during the Second Spanish Republic, the theatre experienced a severe financial crisis. The Barcelona City Council and the govern-ment of Catalunya subsidised the theatre. In 1981, the Generalitat de Catalunya, the City Council and the Societat del Gran Teatre del Liceu created the Consorci del Gran Teatre del Liceu to manage the theatre. But the physical devastation of another fire overwhelmed the house in January 1994. Oddly the same sections of the building sur-vived the fire as in 1861. Puccini’s Turandot reopened the theatre in

October 1999, the opera that had been next on the schedule before the fire in 1994, with Eva Marton and Johan Botha. In the rebuilding of the house, modern technology was installed, including individual translation screens in front of most seats.

The theatre was originally intended for mixed productions. On opening night April 4, 1847, the programme included an overture, a historical play, a ballet and a cantata. Between the two World Wars it became exclusively an opera house. Among the high notes of famous names familiar here are, Luisa Tetrazini, Enrico Caruso, Feodor Chaliapin, Lauritz Melchior, Maria Callas, Victoria de los Ángeles, Kristin Flagstaff, Renata Tibaldi, Brigit Nilsson, Joan Sutherland, Plácido Domingo, and Juan Diego Flores. Monserrat Caballé debuted here. Caruso was booed at his performance, which is odd consider-ing that Camille Saint-Saëns commented on the Barcelona public, Ils aiment trop le tenor. (They are too fond of tenors.)

Before the 1994 fire there were approximately 9,000 subscribers. After the fire that number swelled to 20,000. In 2010-2011, despite these difficult times, there were 17,985 subscribers. The founders, no strangers to economic stress, would surely consider the efforts at fund raising and the individual and corporate contributors part of the grand tradition of the Liceu, a proclamation of Barcelona’s cultural vibrancy— where there is no royal box.

Fundació del Gran Teatre del LiceuLa Rambla 51-59, 08002, Tel. 93 485 9932www.liceubarcelona.com

THEATRE

Photo by Antoni Bofill

CULTURE 17

17. Culture 1.indd 6 3/21/13 12:02:00 PM

Stereotype: Riding is for posh people, it’s expensive, it’s dangerous, it’s difficult. And horses smell.

The horse stands very still as I approach it for the first

time, its big black eyelashes shutting now and then as if it is dozing off. I smell its horse heat, its big body breathing calmly. Then a thwick flip of leather straps as the saddle is fastened, the soft clink chink of metal against teeth as the bridle slips on, a slow grinding of tongue and teeth as the horse accepts the bit. Then a hop and dramatic leg swing and I’m in the saddle, a rousing step from my horse as she wakes up—we are off.

I like my horse’s Zen vibe; I’m already feel-ing happier. After a few laps of the arena to establish our competence, our group of four pushes out into the trees behind Tibidabo, the horses snorting and moving their necks. The trees are full of blossom, the air is clean and fragrant, the movement of my horse is rhythmic and calming. Three quarters of an hour ago I was sitting in my flat in central Barcelona.

I could feel the horse was calm and sensi-ble but since this creature weighed about ten lots of me, I made sure I was in charge. Our

guide, Clara, gave us some sound advice: ¨Horses are herd animals, they have leaders. Show them who is boss. When he tries to eat grass without your permission, don’t let him. He will respect you¨ she said.

Apart from being in nature, the best thing about riding is the cool energy of a good horse —they are the embodiment of ‘things are what they are, and whatever will be, will be.’ Nothing is a problem until it is a problem. Life is simple on a horse; they live entirely in

the now. They have a good philosophy of life and it rubs off on you.

Riding is a great escape for us city slick-ers, ‘removed from the earth’ as we are—not only do you get into the trees, you also go on a huge hike through local scenery without taking an actual step yourself. You inhale the fresh air, dung and pine tree smells, while a huge animal plods between your legs —you can’t get much closer to nature than that. The question then is how much, which rid-ing school, when to go, how to get there and where to ride.

The going rate is €20 per hour and, for someone who has never ridden or hasn’t ridden in a while, an hour is plenty. There are certainly worse ways to spend €20 in this city.

Barcelona is surrounded by natural parks, with Collserola behind the hills to the east, Montserrat behind Collserola, Montseny to the north and Garraf to the south. In each of these parks, good riding schools can be found nestled amongst the trees, some just 20 min-utes from the city centre. The ones listed be-low all have someone on hand to speak Eng-lish if needed. Spring is a lovely time to ride as it’s not too hot and the flowers are starting to come out. You don’t even need a car.

18 FEATURE

Get a new perspective on the back of a horse. By Petra Barnby

City to saddle in thirty

Life is simple

on a horse; they

live entirely in

the now.

18-20. Horse culture.indd 2 3/21/13 12:21:06 PM

FEATURE 19

>>

Riding near Tibidabo with LivingIt

Best for the car-lessOne of the nearest riding schools to the city is in Sant Just Desvern, 20 minutes from Plaça Cataluyna. Local tour operator Living It picks you up and drops you off there, organises the ride, and provides a typical Catalan lunch of truita and pa amb tomàquet. The ride takes place in Collserola park, just behind the hills at the back of the city. The routes are along dirt tracks that snake along the ridge, with views that match those at Tibidabo. Whilst being a stone’s throw from town, you can hear the birds. €74 for a morning riding,including lunch and transport.www.livingit.com

Best for the ‘perfect’ horseThere is a Spanish breed of horse which, until the 19th century, was considered by the royal courts in Europe to be the ‘perfect’ horse. These days it is the English thorough-bred, as seen in racing horses, which is often considered the ultimate horse, but a century ago the Andalusian, or in Castilian pura raza española (pure Spanish breed), was seen as the perfect equine. The breed was created in the 15th century by King Phillip II of Spain who wanted a su-perior horse for his royal court. In the follow-ing years, the breed became so coveted that King Phillip II used it as a diplomatic tool, granting horses and export rights to those

he wanted to keep sweet. Even Henry IV’s groom was impressed when his boss got one:, and is claimed to have said, “Comparing the best horses, I give the Spanish horse first place for its perfection, because it is the most beautiful, noble, graceful and courageous.”Nowadays, white and black Andalusians are often featured in films representing the ar-chetypal horse.There is a riding centre 20 minutes from Barcelona which has six black Andalusian horses. If you prove your skill on a horse, they will let you ride one. They also have 30 other horses catering for all levels, including ponies. Planet Horse is 20 minutes from Bar-celona in Sant Feliu de Llobregat. €20 per hour (first visit €10 and groups of four or more, €15)www.planethorse.es Tel. 93 668 6666

Best for beginners and little onesThe riding school in Sant Just Desvern is also perfect for children as they have small ponies. They also specialise in teaching, so beginners can build their confidence in the arena before setting off into the hills. Poni Club Cataluyna is minutes from Barce-lona, in Sant Just Desvern. €20 per hour. www.poniclubcatalunya.com Tel. 93 371 6364


20 FEATURE

>>

Best for the intrepid explorer Two local riding centres offer multi-day ex-cursions, from weekends to whole weeks in the saddle. They include weekends exploring the Pyrénnées, rides along the Costa Brava beaches, via vineyards, spas and restaurants. Accommodation and food is taken care of, all you need to do is ride, ride, ride. Equitacion Can Janas is minutes from Barce-lona. For information speak to Agueda (she speaks English). €15 per hour. www.equitacioncanjanas.es Tel. 610 285 477

Another option is Catalonia Trails which is one hour and 20 minutes north of Barcelona near Vilopriu. Next excursion April 7th-14th to the beaches near Roses.€20 per hour. Weekend costs €445.www.catalonia-trails.es Tel. 608 583 406

Best for remote countrysideAlthough the landscape around the city can be wild, if you want to ride across endless rolling hills and through little Medieval villages, you need to head further afield. Just north of the city is Can Muni, a riding cen-tre between the Montseny mountains and the sea. You can ride across fields, in woods, and through tiny villages for hours without seeing another soul. Can Muni is located one hour and 20 minutes from Barcelona near Vilopriu. €20 per hour. www.canmuni.com

Best for advanced riders looking for something differentWant to learn how to lasso a calf, herd cat-tle, or get your horse to be cool under pres-sure? There is a ranch in Montserrat which teaches cowboy skills. Although not strictly a riding centre, the owners welcome advanced riders to tour the local scenery and take in the ranch atmosphere. Natural Hipic is just

30 minutes from Barcelona, in Montserrat.www.naturalhipic.comTel. 609 438 080

Best for non-ridersIf you prefer to keep you feet on the ground you can watch some of the world’s most im-pressive horses compete in a national show jumping competition at Barcelona Polo Club on Diagonal, April 17th-21st. Entrance is free, but there is no parking. www.rcpolo.comTel. 607 987 896 I can confidently blow the riding stereotypes to smithereens after trying out the various riding centres around Barcelona: I have learned that riding is for Average Joe as well as Zara Philips; an hour riding costs the same as two cocktails; riding is safe if the horse is right for you; riding can be very easy. And horses do stink but in a good way.

Beach excursion near Roses with Catalonia Trails


Are you looking for somewhere to live in Barcelona?Lugaris has everything you need. Brand new, modern and bright furnished apartments, located very close to the sea. We have the best staff and can provide you with special services such as a swimming-pool, parking, free WiFi cleaning and private security.

Enjoy yourself - Lugaris will take care of the rest.

QUOTE METROPOLITAN FOR A 10% DISCOUNT

Lugaris The Home Concept · Vidal y Valenciano, 14 · BarcelonaTel. (+34) 93 221 9159 · [email protected] · www.lugaris.com


DESIGN 23

ARTFrom his taller in the back

streets of El Born, Argentine artist Fabio De Minicis

reanimates disjointed pieces of the world and organises them into coherent forms.

Fabio De MinicisThe nature of things

“I offer you a journey through the shapes of things,” Fabio tells me. Standing amongst the organised clutter of his Barcelona studio, I follow him from one piece to the next and his enthusiasm for his work is absolutely contagious. De Minicis is fascinated with letters, their forms, their personality. He searches the streets, where objects speak to him in the shapes of characters, which he takes and brings together and groups in families to create a new and original alphabet. Fabio says he was inspired as a boy watching his parents, his father restored autobodies, his mother made clothes and jewellery. He has developed new type fonts, as diverse and original as anything you can find in nature or made by human hands. In one alphabet, each letter is made entirely from scissors; another alphabet is formed with every letter taking its shape from common kitchen tools.

Recycled materials are the starting point of Fabio’s work. One person’s waste becomes not only useful again but gives us a completely different perspective of something we thought we knew. A broken chairback becomes the first letter of someone’s name, a bed’s headboard pro-claims itself, multi-coloured plastic cups and straws light up a room. All objects, despite how inert they may seem, have something to communicate. Like the detective in Paul Auster’s story, City of Glass, Fabio De Minicis plays with the ideas of solid identity, walks the streets decipher-ing letters, searching and listening, as forms appear as if they had stepped out from the pages of an imaginative tale to tell their story. Gallery representation in Barcelona: Espai Ku Canvis Nous Nº[email protected]

23. Design.indd 24 3/21/13 12:22:02 PM

24 FEATURE

Sculpture by Juanjo Novella commemorating anarcho-syndicalists killed by fascists. The inscription reads, “Monument to the men and women of the CNT that died in the conquest of liberty and for the social revolution”

24-26. YESFossas de la Pedrera.indd 2 3/21/13 12:23:25 PM

Pere Fortuny was just six years old in 1939 when he first vis-ited the Fossar de la Pedrera in Montjuïc Cemetery. As the bereaved family entered the old quarry, a Civil Guard

roughly searched his mother and siblings. The young boy came upon a rough waste-land surrounded by limestone cliffs, in the middle of which was a steep-sided pit, lined at the bottom with freshly dug earth. He’d been brought to say goodbye to his father who had been executed a few days before, one of the more than 1,700 victims killed by the Franco regime in Barcelona between 1939 and 1952.

After going into exile in France in Febru-ary 1939, Josep Fortuny, the last Republican mayor of Mollet del Vallés, near Barcelona, had returned to Spain just a few weeks later, believing he had nothing to fear. He was immediately arrested, tortured and ended up imprisoned in La Modelo, and despite numerous testimonies in his favour, he was court-martialled and shot on June 15th, 1939.

Difficult to get to and visited by very few Barcelona residents, let alone tourists, the Fossar de la Pedrera (the Mass Grave of the Quarry) is a peaceful and strangely beautiful

place, concealed from the rest of Montjuïc and the cemetery by cliffs formed by quarry-ing. It was initially established as a common grave for the poor some time after the ceme-tery was founded in 1883 but became a place of infamy in 1939, for this is also the mass grave of the victims of Francoism in Bar-celona. After years of campaigning by the families of the victims, spearheaded by Pere Fortuny, in 1985, the site was redesigned and dignified as a memorial and today functions as a space of memory for all sides of the anti-Francoist opposition, and is undoubtedly the most remarkable of such sites in Spain.

Contrary to popular belief in Barcelona, only eight people were actually shot by the Franco regime at Montjuïc Castle, although thousands were imprisoned in the fortress. In most cases, condemned prisoners were sent out in trucks in the early morning from La Modelo Prison, the castle and elsewhere to the Camp de la Bota (today’s Forum), the Franco regime’s preferred killing ground. This was the fate of Josep Fortuny. Their bodies, some 1700 in all, were then brought back to Montjuïc, dumped and covered with quicklime to ensure they rotted as quickly as possible. Until 1977, the site also continued to function as a common grave and in all some 4,000 bodies are buried here, political

victims or otherwise. As you walk up into the Fossar, you pass

through three rows of square concrete pil-lars. One of the first is chiselled with these words in Catalan:

“In this quarry graveyard rest those who were shot, in the Camp de la Bota and other places, by the Fascist forces from the year 1939. For many of them we will never know their names but our tribute is for all.”

The second two rows are engraved with the names of the victims: 1939 and 1940 have the largest role call. Executions tailed off after the Battle of Stalingrad, when Franco began to fear the Allies might win. A study has shown that more than 70 per-cent were married, most with young chil-dren, which may also explain why they did not try to leave before the fall of Barcelona. The death of the major wage-earner, which most of these men would have been, in “the Years of Hunger” of 40’s Spain would have been extremely difficult to overcome for most families, compounded by the fact that they would have also been tarnished and subject to an economic and social boycott as being “red” families. More than 90 percent were accused, amongst other crimes, paradoxical-ly of “military rebellion” against the military rising led by Franco and other generals.

Fossar de la Pedrera

FEATURE 25

Remembering Barcelona’s victims of the dictatorship. By Nick Lloyd

>>


26 FEATURE

>> The names on the columns are organised by year and then in alphabetical order by first surname. Each name was a life, with a family and friends. One story is that of Carles Flix Morera, a European bantam-weight champion from Gràcia. Flix formed part of a whole generation of brilliant Bar-celonan boxers at a time when the sport was king amongst the city’s working class. At the beginning of the war in July 1936, Flix had his flashy motor car requisitioned by the militias much to his annoyance. He later became a bodyguard of Catalan president Lluís Companys, with whom he left Barce-lona for the French frontier on the morn-ing of January 24th, 1939. Believing he had nothing to fear—he always said he’d never hit anybody outside the ring—he elected not to cross into France and instead returned to Barcelona in February of that year. Back in the city, hearing that the Francoist police were looking for him, he presented himself at the police station in Via Laietana, where he was brutally tortured, accused of being himself “a torturer of the SIM”, the no-torious Republican secret police, and con-demned to death. He was executed in the Camp de la Bota on March 2nd, 1939, at the age of 31. It seems inconceivable that a SIM agent would voluntarily return to Barcelona and hand himself over. The most likely explanation is that he was denounced by a local Falangist as revenge for Flix, a handsome Don Juan, having an affair with his wife. Such denunciations were rife dur-ing the forties in Spain as a way of settling

personal scores. As you enter the Fossar itself on your

left, there is an understated tribute to those who died in the Holocaust, with small stone blocks bearing the names of ten camps, piled with stones, as Jewish custom dictates: Bergen-Belsen, Buchenwald, Belzec, Sobi-bor, Dachau, Auschwitz, Treblinka, Maj-danek and Mauthausen; the latter being the camp where most Spaniards died. Facing this memorial is a monument to those who sacrificed themselves for freedom in Cat-alunya. Above this on a raised terrace is a monument in the form of a cypress to “the men and women of the CNT who died for the social revolution”, one of the very few memorials to anarchism in Barcelona.

Among those who were shot at Montjuïc Castle by the Franco regime was Lluis Com-panys, the last president of the Generalitat de Catalunya during the Civil War. Com-panys went into exile in February 1939, but was captured by the Gestapo and sent back to Spain. After a summary trial, he was exe-cuted on October 15th, 1940. His body was to be dumped in the mass grave, but was res-cued just in time by his sister who somehow, I imagine by bribery, managed to place it in a niche. Companys’ remains were moved to the Fossar in 1985, when it was dignified as a memorial garden, and placed in a tomb surrounded by an ornamental pond.

At the back end of the Fossar against the cliffs is a remarkable and moving array of memorial stones to foreign and Spanish Re-publicans, each of which tells a story outside

the scope of this article. The largest number are to men shot in the Camp de la Bota and buried here. There are also several tributes to Catalans who died at the front (Hues-ca, Ebro, Extremadura). One monument reminds us that more than 7,000 of the some 35,000 International Brigaders who fought for the Spanish Republic were Jew-ish. There are also individual monuments to the German and Austrian International Brigaders who were killed in Spain. There is a plaque dedicated to the Marquis, the guerrilla fighters, who died fighting against Franco from 1939 to 1955. A surprising one perhaps for non-Spaniards is the sculpture in homage to the Masons persecuted by Francoism.

According to staple Francoist propa-ganda, the Republican government was a Jewish-Communist-Masonic conspiracy: being a Freemason became a prescribed ac-tivity and many members were imprisoned or shot. Franco himself was paranoidly obsessed with the Masons, and regularly wrote anti-Masonic articles for the press under the pseudonym of Jakim Boor. He also proclaimed: “The whole secret of the campaigns unleashed against Spain can be explained in two words: masonry and com-munism...we have to extirpate these two evils from our land.” Dotted among these political tributes and memorials to the com-mon dead, are sad crosses to unbaptised children, who were not allowed burial in the main cemetery, a reminder of Catholic practice under Franco.

More information Nick Lloyd runs Spanish Civil Wars tours in Barcelona and is writing a guide book on the subject.Nick is now doing free tours in Catalan with Cementeris de Barcelona. See their website for upcoming details. www.cbsa.es/rutesculturals.asp

PracticalitiesThe easiest way is to get to the cem-etery by public transport is to take bus number 21 from Av. Paral·lel (every 20 minutes on weekdays and 30 on Sundays) starting in front of Teatre Victoria which drops you nicely at the cemetery gates. Access to Fossar de la Pedrera itself is only through the cem-etery. Follow signs once you arrive or pick up a free plan from the cemetery offices at the main entrance.


More than 25,000 patients have been succesfully treated in our clinics.

Passeig Bonanova 89-91 baixos - T. 93 205 [email protected] www.clinicasdoctorjuancabrera.com

English speaking Doctors

MicrofoaM SclEroThEraPy

The only procedure that EliMinaTES all VaricoSE VEinS WiThoUT SUrGEry

no anesthesia, minimally invasive, performed at the doctor’s office, allowing immediate return to daily activities.

BarcElona GranaDa MaDriD a corUÑa

cabrera_halfpg_APR13.indd 1 3/15/13 1:51:02 PM


Network of English Speaking Therapists www.barcelonaNEST.com

Connie Capdevila Brophy, PhD Clinical Psychologist

& Psychotherapist 934 670 650

Vera M. Hilb, MAClinical Psychologist

& Psychotherapist, EMDR 667 584 532

Norma Alicia León, PhD Clinical Psychologist

Psychoanalyst 680 971 468

Claudia Ros Tusquets, MA Clinical Psychologist

& Psychotherapist934 102 962 / 657 570 692

Donna DeWitt, MAPerformance

Sport Psychologist607 636 246

Anna Jansen, MADance Movement

Therapist657 183 542

Manuel Isaías López, MD, PhDChild and Adolescent

Psychiatrist & Psychoanalyst 686 991 742

Maria Sideri, MScPsychologist & Dance Movement Therapist

655 162 410

Jill Jenkins, PsyDChild Clinical

School Psychologist935 041 690

Kamen Petrov, Mag. Phil.Psychologist

Psychotherapist603 490 498

Peter Zelaskowski,UKCP Registered Psychotherapist

628 915 040

English, Spanish, Catalan, Arabic, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Greek, & ItalianAll NEST professionals are licensed/certified


I’ve been in Barcelona 16 years now. Like a lot of peo-ple, I started off planning to be here for a year or two but then decided to stay for all the usual clichéd reasons—the sun, the food, the Mediterranean lifestyle!I’m from Durham but I studied film and cinema at Shef-field. A few years ago I did a filmmaking course in Barce-lona; by then it had all gone digital so that helped me top up my skills. I do mainly corporate films, but I’m working on a docu-mentary about the late Joe Strummer from the Clash. He had a fascinating connection to Spain and I wanted to see what I could find out. I’ve met some really interesting people who have shared anecdotes about him. Strummer ran away to Granada at a time when things were difficult for the Clash, in 1984. However his connection with Spain goes back to the pre-Clash days, around 1973 or 1974, when he shared a squat with two sisters from Malaga.In Granada he met a Spanish band called 091, and in 1986 produced their second album. People close to him at that time say he was always scribbling in notebooks, particularly interested in the rhythm of the songs, and very philanthropic, helping 091 with the LP and even paying for extra sessions in the studio from his own pocket. In an interview on Spanish radio from the Eighties, Strummer asked for help to find his car—a classic Dodge which he left in a Madrid car-park but couldn’t remember which one. That was a good trigger for the film, so I’ve named it “I Need a Dodge”. The film’s taken me two years to make. It is currently at the editing stage and I hope to finish it this year. I’m financ-ing it through a crowd-funding project. You put details of your project on a website, create a trailer to explain what it’s about and then ask friends and family to donate. It’s been pretty successful. Back in Barcelona, I’ve seen lots of changes over the years. Some things have been lost, some gained. There’s a fine balance between restoring old buildings and squares and maintaining the original character. It shouldn’t mean forcing out the people that have always lived there, but that is often the case. The Raval has maintained its authenticity. There, you still get the feeling of Barcelona as a seedy Mediterra-nean port city. It’s multi-faceted. I love walking around the old town because it’s constantly surprising and there’s always a new business springing up. However, I do believe we have enough emblematic architecture now!I think the officials could do much more to pro-mote Barcelona as a hub for filmmakers. As well as the locations, there are so many good crew mem-bers here with all the equipment and expertise need ed, just waiting to be hired. Anyone who has an idea for a film should go for it. It’s a long process but there are always people willing to help you get a project together. And if anyone knows the whereabouts of a silver-grey Dodge 3700 GT, please get in touch!

www.ineedadodge.com

INTERVIEW 29

Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

INTERVIEWNick Hall

Documentary filmmaker, 40, British,

29. Interview.indd 24 3/21/13 12:25:57 PM

30 FEATURE

Many people rush through the Plaça del Diamant on their way from the Fontana metro towards the

Verdi cinemas, or pass quickly through this undistinguished square on the way to the more popular and beautiful Gràcia squares of Vila de Gràcia or La Virreina. But stopping for a moment, one notices along one side of this fairly ordinary square, a low, black sculpture of a naked woman screaming —in anguish or perhaps liberation. She is surrounded by pigeons. The monument commemorates a scene toward the end of the novel, La plaça del Diamant, and the woman is its heroine, La Colometa, the Pigeon Girl. Written by Mercè Rodoreda (1908-1984) in an intense spring and summer 1960 of her Geneva exile, it was a huge critical and popular success when it came out in 1962.

English-language readers are not spoiled for choice if they want access to literature written in Catalan. In the 1990’s, only one novel translated from Catalan was published in the UK, the late Jesús Moncada’s The Tow-path (El camí de sirga). This month, the third translation into English of La plaça del Diamant, under the title In Diamond Square, is published by Virago. In its fifty years in print, it’s been translated to 28 languages. In 2008 it was translated for the third time

into Italian and sold 30,000 copies in its first six months. Peter Bush, Barcelona resident and translator of In Diamond Square told me, “It’s a common assumption that novels in translation are necessarily difficult to read and of minority interest. In Diamond Square is very readable.”

By 1962, the Franco dictatorship, then in the 23rd year of its hold on the country, was obliged to liberalise slightly as its economic and political isolation ended. It was becoming possible to publish in Catalan again after two decades of the severest military, economic and linguistic repression. Rodoreda’s novel became a symbol of Catalan literature emerging from the dark.

Joan Sales, Rodoreda’s publisher, tells the story of the première of the 1982 film of La plaça del Diamant: “A crowd of several thousand men and women packed the Rambla de Catalunya outside the cinema...When Mercè Rodoreda with difficulty crossed that tightly packed crowd, one of the longest and most deafening ovations I have heard in my life broke out...See, I said to myself, how forty years of the profoundest persecution has not been able to suppress our people...which knows how to thank an author who spreads beyond the limits of our nation a language and literature that implacable persecution has not been able to kill.”

A successful writer in an oppressed language becomes more than a writer, she

becomes representative. Yet despite the hype, the novel has to be good to bear this weight. And La plaça del Diamant is a stunning novel. It reads like a thriller. Many readers comment how they devoured it at one sitting. Rodoreda’s skill makes us want to read right to the end to know what’s going to happen to her heroine, Natàlia or as she will forever be remembered to everyone who has read the novel, La Colometa. Narrated in the first person, the book opens in the Plaça del Diamant at the Festa Major de Gràcia, where La Colometa first meets Quimet—for whom she breaks off her engagement to another man . The story starts out during the last years of the Spanish Republic, and documents La Colometa’s life through the Spanish Civil War and then against the backdrop of the Franco dictatorship, and up to the mid-1950’s.

Their marriage starts with the sexual passion of “a week of wedding nights” and riding out fast on his motor-bike. Her life veers between this excitement and drudgery as the feckless Quimet’s furniture-making workshop declines. He starts to breed pigeons, but gives them away, while she feeds them, cleans the cages and looks after their two children, all the time working out as a cleaner.

When the Civil War erupts, Quimet and his friends Cintet and Mateu go off to fight. The effects of war bring her to the end of

In diamond square

Fifty years after its first publication, a new English translation is available of one of the best-known Catalan novels.

By Michael Eaude. Photos by Michaela Xydi.

30-31 Merce rodoreda.indd 34 3/21/13 1:51:27 PM

FEATURE 31

her strength; destitute, she considers killing her two children and herself. Rodoreda’s character struggles to come to terms with her love for Quimet, with loss and move forward into another kind of life. The denouement of the book is subtle and moving. You will have to read it to understand why La Colometa screams in Diamond Square.

The greatest achievement of the book is the vigour and consistency of La Colometa’s narrative voice. She is ignorant, ingenuous, at times downtrodden, but also sensitive and perceptive, as her very detailed descriptions of everyday life and shifting feelings show. Rodoreda has La Colometa dwell on things: domestic utensils, weather, the feel of a wall under her fingers, shapes and lights. At times, the book reaches stream-of-consciousness intensity, though usually in quick sentences that push the narrative forward. Much of

the writing has the extreme sensitivity often associated with lyric poets, but it is not precious or abstract. “It is one of the few novels about women in wartime narrated by a working-class woman,” says Peter Bush.

The book is a sustained tour-de-force, taking us through the Republic, Civil War, the victory of fascism and into the dictatorship. It explains 25 years of Catalan history, but without mentioning a single public event. History is seen through the eyes of this working-class woman with her feet on the ground. On the outbreak of the military uprising, in July 1936 (though the book mentions no dates), while Quimet “was running through the streets” with the other young men, and as her friend Julieta joins the militia, too, La Colometa finds the grocer has run out of food, there’s no gas, no milk. Yet she is not the passive housewife.

She too is conducting her revolution: getting rid of the pigeons that enslave her.

In her introduction, reprinted in this new translation, Rodoreda rejects firmly a criticism by the Mallorcan novelist, Baltasar Porcel, that La Colometa is “simple-minded”. “She does what she has to do in her situation in life”, Rodoreda rejoins and compares her character with other famous literary heroines. “I think La Colometa is more intelligent than Madame Bovary or Anna Karenina and no-one’s ever thought of saying they were simple-minded. Perhaps because they were rich, dressing in silk.” We could add that Natàlia could hardly have told the story of her life so acutely if she were “simple-minded”.

I asked Peter Bush about the problems of translating such a particular voice as Natàlia’s. “The right voice is key to any successful translation. I prepared myself by reading several novels about the working-class from the 30’s or Alan Sillitoe, whose characters speak non-standard English. I read Vassily Grossman’s Life and Fate for the impact war has on ordinary people. And I drew on my own experience; my mother lived six years through the Second World War with my father away and in later years, she never stopped talking about it.” Impressed, I ask him if he always prepares a translation so thoroughly. “With books that are really original, I try to read around them. Translators…are important gatekeepers, especially when ushering the literature of a ‘minority’ culture into the space of world literature.”

After decades of isolation, this year sees several Catalan books in English translation. Three of them are classics, all three translated by Peter Bush: In Diamond Square, Uncertain Glory by Joan Sales (who was also Rodoreda’s publisher), and Josep Pla’s The Grey Notebooks. There are several others, by contemporary writers such as Francesc Serés or Najat El Hachmi. Why this sudden flurry? In part, due to Catalunya being the guest country at the 2007 Frankfurt book fair and also through the translation subsidies offered by the Ramon Llull Institute.

In Diamond Square is highly unromanticised, the non-epic counterpoint to, say, André Malraux’s account in Days of Hope of anarchists racing in their wild heroism across the Plaça de Catalunya up against machine-guns. It articulates the fight to survive war and hunger through the consciousness of a young, working-class mother. No excuse not to read it now! You will be moved by La Colometa’s indomitable spirit.

A homage to Rodoreda’s novel can be found in Gràcia’s Plaça del Diamant

30-31 Merce rodoreda.indd 35 3/21/13 1:51:30 PM

You don’t need to be an experienced cyclist—or even have your own bike—to enjoy the Catalan countryside on two wheels. There’s plenty for everyone here, from short, flat trails for a family day out to longer routes that can fill a long weekend. You can opt for quiet wetlands, or lush green valleys, follow a well-ridden route or make it up as you go along.

Llobregat Delta Located just beyond El Prat airport where the river Llobregat meets the sea, this area of nearly 100 square kilometres of wetlands of-fers beautiful landscapes and safe, easy cycling. Paths take you by pine forests, shallow lagoons, marshes and wild, dune-lined sandy beaches. You might forget that you’re just a stone’s throw from the city if it weren’t for the frequent planes overhead. The delta is made up of a number of different protected spaces, including the Reserva Natural de Remolar-Filipines which is home to some 164 species of birds a year. The area is known particularly for its aquatic birds as the area is on a migratory route from Northern Europe to Africa and there are a number of hides and towers from which visitors can watch the birds. Visit www.deltallobregat.cat for more information about the delta and details of the different itineraries.

Ebro DeltaThe Ebro Delta, in the province of Tarragona is the perfect destina-tion for a weekend of quiet and gentle cycling. It’s a flat and peaceful area with great natural beauty and a number of small towns. Covering

over 320 square kilometres, this Natural Park is one of Europe’s most important wetlands. Hire your bike in Sant Carles de la Rapita, Deltebre or Poblenou de la Delta, along with a guide, or just make up your own itinerary, taking in the marshes, lagoons, rice paddies and deserted beaches. At the bird watching viewpoints you can watch some of the over 300 species that frequent the delta. All of the towns located in the Delta offer accommodation, from camping grounds and hostels to upscale hotels and there are plenty of other activities on offer, including boat rides, fishing, horse riding and canoeing. Visit www.deltaebro.com for more information.

Vias VerdesThe Vias Verdes are an extensive Spain-wide network of over 2,000 kilometres of former railway tracks that have been transformed into car-free tracks for walkers and cyclists. Since the programme began in 1993 over 143 million euros have been invested in the 102 tracks that make up the Vias Verdes. The tracks are all well signposted and maintained. If you plan to do one of these trails check out www.viasverdes.com for more information and suggestions for places to stay and visit. On the Catalan site www.viesverdes.cat you’ll also find hotels and bicycle hire places near the routes.

Via Verde: Ripoll to Sant Joan de les AbadessesThis 12-kilometre track is flat and easy and begins near the train station in Ripoll. It winds through the lush, green Ripollés country-side, taking in old farmhouses and winding streams all the way to the

sitting prettyNumerous bike trails wind from town to town throughout Catalunya’s rich landscape. Here are a few suggestions to help find one that is right for you. By Jay Collins.

32 TRAVEL

32-33 Travel.indd 56 3/21/13 12:40:02 PM

lovely town of Sant Joan de les Abadesses. This route is paved, flat and consequently very popular with families with plenty of places to picnic on the way. Both Ripoll and Sant Joan offer plenty of places for lunch and pre and post ride refreshments. There are direct trains to Ripoll from Barcelona and bikes can be hired from www.bicicletespir-ineu.blogspot.com.

Via Verde: Girona to Sant Feliu de Guíxols Formerly the way for Girona residents to reach the beaches of Sant Feliu, this route takes cyclists through wide meadows and shady oak forests and past small villages and old railway stations. On a clear day you can take in an incredible panoramic view ranging from the Pyrenees all the way down to the Montseny massif. After 39 kilo-metres it finally opens out to the beautiful beaches of Sant Feliu de Guixols. Unlike the Ripoll route, this is a compact dirt track and unless you’re up to a 78-kilometre journey you’ll need to arrange transport back from Sant Feliu. Or you could always make a weekend of it, staying in Sant Feliu overnight and returning to Girona the next day. You can rent a bike from www.cicloturisme.com which is located just metres from Girona train station.

Via Verde: Olot—Girona The Olot to Girona trail is the longest of the Girona Vias Verdes at 54 kilometres, so transport back at the other end would be essential for most. The route follows the old Narrow Gauge Railway route and descends gently from Olot (440m) to Girona (70m). It winds through

the impressive Garrotxa volcanic park, by volcanoes and riverbeds and passing monasteries and the ruins of the 14th-century Hostoles castle. The trail passes through several towns, including Anglès and Sant Feliu de Pallerols and the last section runs alongside the River Ter. To get to the start of the route you can take the train to Girona or a bus to Olot.

In the cityIf you can’t make a trip out of the city, then head up to Collserola and the Carretera de les Aigues and you’ll feel like you’re far away from home. At almost 10 kilometres long and 450 metres above the city, this flat trail offers spectacular views of Barcelona and it’s a popular spot for local ramblers, runners and cyclists. To get there take a Ferrocarril (FGC) to Peu del Funicular (direction Sabadell or Terassa) then take the Funicular de Vallvidrera and get off at the first stop, which is the Carretera de les Aigues. There are also bike routes through Montjuïc, and though still in the city, they offer a ride through extensive green areas, along paths with average gradients.

You can also join MapMyRide to map your own cycling routes, track your activity and find new bike trails to explore. You can sign up for free and see user-contributed routes for any area —you can even narrow down your site-specific search by length or diffculty level. mapmyride.com.

So there’s no excuse not to get on your bike and ride.

Trails range from the flat and easy to more challenging terrain

TRAVEL 33

32-33 Travel.indd 57 3/21/13 12:40:05 PM

✪ - NOT WORTH THE TRIP, ✪✪ - COULD IMPROVE, ✪✪✪ - GOOD, ✪✪✪✪ - VERY GOOD, ✪✪✪✪✪ - NOT TO BE MISSED

CHEZ COCÓ

One thing I can tell you about Chez Cocó is that it is very pretty and über comfortable, as is the wont of Barcelona design guru Lázaro Rosa-Violán who seems to do

everything these days. Here, he’s split the uptown, ginormous space into comfortable sections that allow for anything from business lunches, to girlie dinners, to illicit trysts. Ours was a tête-à-tête so the long banquette of closely packed little tables where you can see and be seen would not do. We quickly moved to the larger, Cerulean blue booths modelled on first class train carriages and watched what we could from there—an important someone’s birthday party in one corner, a dead-ringer for Carme Ruscalleda cracking open the champers with her grown-up kids in another, and wasn’t that Joan Roca moonlighting as the maitre’d?

That’s the great thing about casual dining done well, as fans of Chris Corbin and Jeremy King’s Wolseley and Colbert, laid-back, café-style-restaurants in London will tell you: it’s the kind of place where everyone could be anyone, yet your comfort level and sense of ease is such that all you feel is extreme, well comfort. And the food, in all its delicious simplicity, does not distract from the heady bliss of spending time with those you love.

Here the service is swift and sure-footed, the food solid and unpretentious. I had chicken and chips. Seriously. It’s what I fancied and take note, dear readers, because poultry is what Chez Cocó is all about. Behold the chicken’s glistening and oozing juiciness as they turn on the spit at the entrance, on a backdrop of copper pans hanging just so, grey-blue modernisme tiles on the floors, chandeliers glittering overhead and yes, those delightful train carriage banquettes. It is brilliant for a date, even better with an old mucker to gossip and giggle long into the night with.

For God’s sake woman, what of the food, I hear you mutter? Surely it’s not just chicken and chips. Forewarned if forearmed. Do

not do as I did and pre-plan what you want from the online menu, because when you arrive you will be disappointed to discover that the menu has changed. I had my heart set on cauliflower cheese made with Compé and artichokes with a salsa verde. Instead, I puzzled over an odd assortment of starters and sides infuriatingly lacking in vegetables and salads. Burgundian snails? I think not. Baked pasta. Definitely no.

We settled on a funny little thing described as a ‘salad’, but comprised a thin sheet of pate de campaña stuffed with raspberries, mushrooms and watercress and folded up like a sausage roll. Weirdly, it actually tasted quite good, but in all my years of eating in Barcelona restaurants I’ve never seen anything quite like it. It was the kind of thing that only the late Fanny Cradock could have come up with. That, or the was chef stoned.

My pal’s cassoulet was alright. “Tastes like Bovril,” she said after a mouthful or two. “Duck, sausage and beans in a Bovril bath… want some?” I had a token nibble, while secretly congratulating myself on having ordered the chicken and I promise you, if you do not deviate from this, you’ll walk away a supremely happy bunny without doing too much damage to your wallet.

Yes, you can get a whole roasted Lumagorri or Bresse chicken, or a more local Dels Casals for the table (€55-€85 with sides) and you might want to if you’re a table of four to share it. Or, you can do what I did and have the pollo Tomatero (€15), which comes as a whole, baby roast chicken (a picantón), a copper pan full of the crunchiest chips and a crisp green salad. Your large, oval plate will be piping hot as it’s set before you along side a little jug of lemony chicken juices. You probably won’t be able to eat it all unless you’re very greedy, but you’ll give it a good go because it tastes that good, and you’ll rejoice because roast chicken is one of the greatest foods on earth and won’t care about the starters, because really, who needs

Finger licking good. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Richard Owens

34 RESTAURANT REVIEW

34-35 Food & drink.indd 56 3/21/13 11:24:15 AM

Avenida Diagonal 465, Eixample. Tel. 93 444 9822 www.chezcoco.es. Open Mon-Sat 1pm-midnight. Closed Sun. With careful ordering, two courses with wine from €35. ✪✪✪✪

them when you have friends?You might have an indecently rich and delicious choccie

thing for pudding, and treat yourself to a fabulous bottle of wine (we drank a beautiful cherry-red Furvus, D.O. Montsant, which at €28 is at the cheaper end of the wine list), and then maybe have a G&T on the terrace because its lovely out there and by now you’ll be avoiding going home.

Yes, you could spend a fortune in this place if you wanted, but the great thing is you don’t have to. More importantly, is it worth that Friday night reserva with someone you adore? Oh, I should coco!

RESTAURANT REVIEW 35

34-35 Food & drink.indd 57 3/21/13 11:24:17 AM

Supermarkets are not, on the whole, Barcelona’s strong point. Nor should they be, since this is a place where we are fortu-nate enough to have a fresh produce market for nearly every

barrio in the city. But Casa Ametller is different: a family-run food store with a solid set of values that are admirable. The Ametller’s started out as farmers in the Penedès in 1824, later selling their pro-duce direct to customers from the Vilafranca del Penedès market, which is about as fine a pedigree as you could hope for in a super-market. It means they walk the walk—fully understand provenance, produce and seasons—and as an added extra include a friendlier, more knowledgeable style of service in the bill.

Having reached their seventh generation however, brothers Jordi and Josep were itching to do a new kind of supermarket and opened their first shop in 2001 which was all about making the produce grown on their expanding network of holistic, integrated farms more accessible. They’ve been evolving slowly, quietly and really rather successfully ever since. So much so in fact that their most recent opening opposite the Sant Antoni market is also one of their most beautiful shops with stylish, coloured concrete floor tiles framed by

rustic wooden shelves that offer heaping piles of fruit and vegetables, rice, pasta and other comestibles. To behold you’d expect it to be expensive, but it isn’t. Indeed item-by-item it’s comparable to my lo-cal branch of Bon Preu—because they’ve cunningly cut out the mid-dleman, and for you and me that’s a total result because it ensures what’s in your basket has taken the quickest route possible from farm to fork.

85 percent of their product comes from their own farms in the Alt Penedès where they have the bulk of their fruit orchards, including excellent peaches, nectarines and paraguayos, and the Maresme for lettuce, greens and brassicas. The rest comes from farms further afield in Murcia (citrus) and Alicante (tomatoes), and they have also now embraced other bona-fide local producers for oil, honey and wine, meat, dairy and chocolate as demand for more diversity has grown.

It may not replace the atmosphere of the old-fashioned market in my heart, but it’s a heartening vision and a most pleasing alternative to the rapacious tentacles of the ‘super’.Borrell 71. Tel. 633 258 537. www.casaametller.net.

QUICKBITES

Casa Amatller prides itself on its fresh, local products

CASA AMATLLERBy Tara Stevens Photos by Lee Woolcock

36 QUICK BITES

36. Quick bites.indd 42 3/21/13 11:28:29 AM

FOOD & DRINK 37

Food&drinkFor more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

� under 20 | �� 20-30 | �� 30-40 | �� over 40RV Reservation Advised | NEW in food & drink this month

NEWIN F&D

Bar

*READER DISCOUNT

* Discount for Metropolitan readers.

NEVERMIND4Barri gÒtic

Nevermind is a cult place for those looking for a more alternative scene in touristy Barcelona. Mixing large amounts of grunge music, graffitti and urban sports, they serve up amazing cocktails, special house shots, cheap beer, Happy Hour till 10pm, free freshly-made popcorn, authentic decoration, skate videos and much more. �

Escudellers Blancs 3, 08002 | www.nevermindbcn.com | Open every day from 7pm

SWEET REBEL BAR4Barri gÒtic

Located in the heart of the Gothic quarter, this cool ‘beach bar’ is the place to enjoy the sweetest reggae music 365 days a year. Chill out with a beer or try a Jamaican cocktail made from natural fruits and sweet rum. Its comfortable surroundings and ambiance make it a great place to relax. Beers �2 Cocktails �5. �

Ample 54 | Open every day from 7pm-3am

Hospital, 104 (Rambla del Raval) | Liceu / Sant Antoni | T. 93 329 8277 M. 609 221 400 | Wed-Sat 7.30pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun open at 1pm for lunch | RV

BARRAVAL4raval

Barraval is located at the top of the Rambla de Raval where they have a fantastic terrace for you to enjoy great, seasonal Mediterranean food. On Friday and Saturday nights, they have a live DJ so you can enjoy tasty cocktails in a trendy atmosphere. Weekend menu 12.95 �

MANCHESTER BAR4Barri gÒtic

Manchester Bar brings together friends and music fans to enjoy great tunes from the eighties and nineties. From Joy Division to Placebo to The Smiths and all the way through to the Happy Mondays, Manchester Bar has it all. A must-visit place for anyone who knows and loves their music! �

Milans 5 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am Tel. 627 733 081 | www.manchesterbar.com

RED ROCKET4Barri gÒtic

Red Rocket was opened in 2008 and has become the hangout of musicians and DJs in Barcelona. They offer the most authentic rock sessions with top DJ’s in a friendly environment. Metropolitan readers get fantastic drink offers such as �1 beers from 8pm until 10pm and �6 mixed drinks. �

Calle Codols 21, Ciutat Vella | Metro Drassanes | www.facebook.com/bar.redrocket Open every day 7.30pm-10pm

BOLLOCKS BAR4Barri gÒtic

The quintessential rock bar in downtown Barcelona. Covered in posters and graffiti from top to bottom, the bar has the air of an abandoned subway station where daily riffs and whiskey bring together all those who carry rock & roll in their blood. �

Ample 46 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am Tel. 663 710 095 | www.bollocksbcn.com

SUB ROSA BARThis cute little bar is a bundle of fun and has an energetic buzz from the mixed crowd of locals and tourists enjoying their fantastic cocktails and shots. Their fresh fruit cocktails are very potent making this a great pre-club place to hang out with friends and warm up for a big night out on the town. A visit to the bathrooms is a must! �

Rauric 23 | Metro Liceu I Opens at 8pm

ANDú

Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrific-ing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, including fantastic Catalan cheeses and hams. �

Correo Viejo I Metro Jaume 1 I Tel. 646 553 930 Mon-Sun 6pm -2.30am

€1 beer€6 mixes

SUGAR BAR

Located in the back streets of Plaça Reial this small bar is renowned for its huge personality and fun vibe. The friendly bar staff dish out great mojitos that don’t cost a mint. Good tune selections, happy hour until 11pm and great mingling opportunities make Sugar a sweet spot. �

Rauric 21 | Metro Liceu I Opens at 8pm

Tuesday special offers

RUBI BAR

Located near the church of Santa Maria del Mar in the Born, this friendly bar has a great vibe with a fantastic playlist and prices that won’t destroy you. They serve the best mojitos in town and have a selection of fun and interesting Asian tapas. Hendricks Gin and all the rest from �5, food from �3 to �4. �

Banys Vells 6 I Opens at 8pm

Mojitos€3.50

BAR 68

Located in the heart of Raval, Bar 68 has established itself as a classic cocktail joint over the last 12 years. As one of the pioneering hotspots in the area, Bar 68 combines a great atmosphere, cool urban funk and soul sounds, and tasty cocktails, to make this an ideal location for a great night out. Open everyday from 8pm until 3am. �

Sant Pau 68 I Metro Liceu I Tel. 93 441 3115

cocktails €5

ADVERTISE YOUR BAR HERECALL RICHARD ON 685 810 227

Food & drink Mar 2013.indd 45 3/20/13 12:33:35 PM

38 FOOD & DRINK

Delivery

Burger

PIM PAM BURGER4BOrN

Here quality is of the utmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises. �

Sabateret 4 - Bor I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I [email protected] Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am

Cocktails

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I [email protected] Open Mon-Fri 9.30-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm,Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

BE MY BAGEL 4grÀcia

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. �

Bagel

Parlament 1 | Metro Poble Sec | Tel. 93 292 [email protected] www.restaurantefabula.es

FABULA4POBlE SEc

Located in the new trendy part of town, this restaurant offers Mediterranean cuisine. There is a great three-course menu del día for �10.20 (and at night you can enjoy traditional Spanish dishes and half portions from la carta.) Their special ‘after-work’ you enjoy two excellent promotions: A glass of wine together with a special Fabula toast for �4.50, and/or a glass of cava (Brut Nature) alongside a duo of salmon and anchovies for �5. They also have a private room that is available for group bookings. �

PALAU DALMASES COCKTAIL BAR4Barri gÒtic

Located on Carrer Montcada, just by the Picasso Museum, the Dalmases Palace is one of the most notable city palaces from the 16th century. This gorgeous palace of Baroque infl uence is a testimony to the artistic, political and cultural life of Cata-lunya. With live music every day it’s the perfect place to drink a cocktail and enjoy their live fl amenco, opera and jazz show starting at 9.30pm.

Montcada 20 I Tel. 93 310 [email protected] I Open every day from 8pm

SANO 4grÀcia - Barri gÒtic - SaNtS

Want a healthy, tasty alternative? Try a refreshing smoothie like Antioxidant, Mango & Passion Fruit or Coco Muesli (�3.80) or a delicious juice made only with fresh blended fruit and no added water, milk or sugar (�3.60). Can’t de-cide? Try one of their convenient combos from �4.50. �

Gran de Gràcia 16 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 217 8115 | Jaume 1 | Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 310 3247 | Creu Coberta 50 Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 117 0891Every day 10am-8pm | [email protected] | www.sanojuice.com

Juice bar

Thai THAI GRACIA4grÀcia

Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle fl a-vours. Simply delicious! The special tast-ing menu for �21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable �12 menú del día is avail-able during the week. The warm hospital-ity and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. ��

Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

SPECIALOFFER

Torrent de L’Olla 65 I Metro Fontana / DiagonalTel. 93 218 9345 I www.messiepizza.esMon-Fri 6pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 6pm-Midnight

MESSIÉ PIZZA4grÀcia

Messié Pizza is the new place in Gràcia that strives to be cheap & cheerful. It’s the perfect venue to have a few drinks after going to the cinema or theatre or simply meeting up with friends. In this charming Gràcia spot you will have the pleasure of sam-pling a great pizza with a homemade thin and crunchy base, topped with fresh in-gredients from the local market. Messié Pizza offers all of this at a good price and in a unique atmosphere decorated with style and great music. Home delivery is also available. �

€1 beerbefore 9pm

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat Tel. 93 453 6445 | www.7sinsbar.com Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV

7SINS BAR AND LOUNGE4EIXAMPLE E

If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place to get a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! The menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfi eld sofas and impressive decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com �


MAGNOLIA 4Barri gÒtic

In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract huge crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. During the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just �3.50. ��

Breakfast from �2.70, Lunch from �9. Dinner menu �17.95 (Sun-Thurs) �25 (Fri-Sat)Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 [email protected] | www.magnoliabar-celona.com | www.facebook.com/magnolia.rnaMon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am

Vietnamese

LA VIETNAMITA 4grÀcia La Vietnamita is a new food concept in the heart of Gràcia, offer-ing fresh and healthy Vietnamese inspired cuisine. They serve light and nutritious dishes such as traditional ‘Pho’ soup, the typical rice noodle dish ‘Bun Xiau’ and classic ‘Goi Cuon’ spring rolls. All their dishes are prepared in the moment and served with ingredients that are naturally full of fl avour. Veggies and vegans: they have a lot to offer you, too! So what are you waiting for? New branch opening soon in the Born. � Torrent de l’Olla 78 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 518 1803 | www.lavietnamita.com

Vegetarian

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4Barri gÒtic Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. �

Plaça Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

AMALTEA4EiXaMPlE EVisit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day �10.70, night and weekend menu �15.30. �Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

Mercaders 28 | Tel. 93 319 2029Close to Santa Caterina marketMon-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 10am-3pm, 8pm-midnight

PATXOCA 4BOrN

This fantastic restaurant has tapas and traditional dishes that use local and seasonal produce, including vegetarian options, all prepared in a home-cooked style. Enjoy a daily menu from Monday til Saturday, and brunch on Sunday! Patxoca also has a beautiful terrace on a pedestrianised street, with a children’s play area just next door. They don’t use MSG. �

BUN BO VIÊTNAM4raval

Now you can satisfy your craving for fresh and healthy Vietnamese food in the heart of the Raval. Following the success of their first restaurant next to the Gothic Cathedral, Bun Bo has recently opened a second restaurant on the other side of La Rambla where you can find all your favorite Vietnamese dishes such as prawn and mango salad, savoury pancakes, Vietnamese pork sandwich or a classic chicken or seafood curry. Try their Pho (the house specialty) a traditional soup with flat rice noodles which is jam-packed with fresh vegetables and herbs.If you´re a vegetarian you can also find tasty options like Com voi rau which is fried rice with cauliflower, broccoli, zucchini, carrot & onions under �7. Come for lunch menu. Starter, main, dessert and a drink for only �9. �

Dels Angels 6, 08001 | Tel. 93 412 1890 | Fri-Sat 1pm-1am, Sun-Thurs 1pm-12amwww.bunbovietnam.com

Mediterranean

FOOD & DRINK 39

Cocktails from€3,50

Bailén 115 | Metro Verdaguer or Girona | Tel. 93 457 0640 [email protected] | www.romerobcn.com | Mon to Sat Lunch starting at 1pmMon-Fri 5pm-9pm, Thu-Sat Dinner starting at 8.30pm

ROMERO4 EiXaMPlE D

Located in the centre of the city, just a few streets from Passeig de Grácia, this exquisite and charming restaurant serves fresh, organic produce sourced directly from local mar-kets. The staff are determined to share their love for Barcelona and its culinary wonders and only use the best ingredients to create their delicious dishes. The idea behind the res-taurant was to create a unique space where good friends could come together and enjoy great Mediterranean food and wine. The chef at Romero, José Antonio Camacaro León, has an unmatched passion for food and offers his guests creative, natural dishes based on Mediterranean cuisine. With options for vegetarians and gluten-free menu items, there’s something to suit all tastes. Be sure to check out the great value set menus and daily specials too. �

TO ADVERTISE HERE IN F&DCALL 93 451 4486 OR EMAIL

[email protected]


GREY STREET/SATAN’S COFFEE CORNER Peu de la Creu 25 · T. 600 334 639 www.facebook.com/GreyStreetBarcelona

A small corner where the best coffee products meet gifts and garments from all over the world, including many local design-ers. Located in Raval, Grey Street and Satan’s Coffee Corner brings you a wide range of goodies from new and vintage clothing to stationery, ceramics, jewellery, teas and a number of coffee varieties. Plus Satan’s coffee corner offer 3-day coffee courses. You’re sure to fi nd something you like!

BOOBonavista 2 · www.boobcn.comwww.facebook.com/boobcn

Born in 2006 with the intention of looking for brands that have a story to tell. Each season, BOO carefully selects products of his-torical labels (such as Penfi eld, The Cambridge Satchel Company and Saint James) for which they feel a special affi nity, along with emerging brands that are full of potential. BOO’s story is embodied in these special products and you can fi nd them in their vintage, Brit-inspired shop in Gràcia.

24 KILATESComerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

Located in the Born shopping area this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its excit-ing design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Defi nitely worth a look.

40 SHOPPING DIRECTORY

Shopping directoryFor more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping

BATEAU LUNE - TOYSHOPPlaça Virreina 7 · T. 93 218 6907 · [email protected] www.bateaulune.com · www.facebook.com/bateaulune

Bateau Lune is a shop for kids where you can fi nd a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, micro scooters, kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Come visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

OJALA!Carrer de la Ciutat 14 · T. 93 601 1830 · www.ojala.esMon-Sat 10am-8,30pm

OJALA! is the fashion brand by Paloma Del Pozo, hailed as one of today’s most original and creative Spanish designers. Her new Barcelona boutique is located on a charming street in the Gothic quarter, only 50 metres from the Plaça Sant Jaume. Del Pozo designs joyful, colourful and elegant quality garments that will make any women stand out in a crowd.

EL MUNDO DE HAMACASJosep Anselm Clave 3 Drassanes · Mon-Sat 10.30am-2pm, 4pm-8pm · T. 93 317 5 115 · www.mundodehamacas.es

Ever thought of spending your mid-day rest in a comfy, restful hammock, rather than on the old living room couch? You can fi nd this friendly hammock heaven just 25m off Les Rambles (close to the Colombus statue) in the historical centre of Ciutat Vella. El Auténtico Mundo de Hamacas offers high quality hammocks in different sizes and styles, suitable for all.

BUDDA BAGwww.buddabag.es

Budda Bag is a revolution in home furniture. After falling into their foam-fi lled phenomena for the fi rst time you will never willingly relax on anything else. There are six sizes, from cosy footstools up to ultra-comfy three-seater sofas, all available in a range of interchangeable colours and fabrics. Whatever your needs, there’s a Budda to fi t the bill. Visit their shop today and try them out for yourself.

CABOCLO HAND MADE SHOESBaixada de la Llibreteria 8 · T. 93 317 2929 www.caboclobrasil.com

Hand made by the best artisans from the north of Brazil, the Caboclo team defi nes themselves as an Eco & Social company. Each sandal and shoe is made with chrome free leather, and uses recycled tyres to form the sole. Visit them just steps from the city hall and look over their unique and elegant styles that compliment an easy going lifestyle. Don’t miss the sustainable decoration!

PARRUPBanys Nous 20 · www.parrup.comww.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and fi nely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the “made in Asia” business. Nothing more but nothing less.

LU INKMadrazo 141 · T. 93 200 8806 · www.lu-ink.com · facebook.com/luink

Lu Ink is a one-of-a-kind shop in Barcelona full of art, design and decor for your home and personal life. Here you will fi nd handmade objects, illustrations, paintings, books, cushions and other textiles, and plenty of unique gift items. Located in one of the lesser-known areas of the city, Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, off the beaten tourist track, full of little shops and restaurants.

FURTIVO SKATEBOARDINGwww.furtivoskateboarding.com

Furtivo Skateboarding is an online skateboarding shop with se-lected products of premium brands, offering hi-end skateboard-ing products. Pro-Models represent 80 percent of their stock. You can fi nd: Plan B, Flip, Blind, Cliché, Darkstar, Enjoi, Element, BLVD, Toy Machine, Foundation and many more. They deliver world wide in 24 to 48 hours. Register now to take advantage of their offers and promotions.

MICROGESTIOValència 87/89 · T. 93 454 1001 · [email protected] www.microgestio.com

Need help with your Mac? Want to buy an iPad? Microgestió supplies everything a Mac user needs, including service and repairs, classes on how to use different programs, useful tutorials, and the latest new products on the market. You can count on Microgestió for all of your Mac needs... and a friendly, professional service!

shopping directory 2013.indd 45 3/21/13 12:36:12 PM

Business directoryTo advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: [email protected] also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - hAIRDRESSER

Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years’ experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices.

Barceloneta, Almirall Churruca 8 T. 93 221 1612 / M. 619 224 695Gràcia, Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308El Born, Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405 www.anthonyllobet.com

Kinki - hAIRDRESSER

Kinki peluqueros is an international hairstyling group from holland with over 40 salons in their home country. They put their heart and soul into cut-ting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. If you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. English, Spanish, Dutch, Ger-man and French speaking.

Pintor Fortuny 14, RavalMetro: Catalunya (L1, L3)T. 93 302 3379 www.kinkipeluqueros.esOpen Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm

Scissors of London - BRITISh hAIRDRESSER

Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years, and has trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. Tim works to fi t in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service around your needs.

Carrer Viladomat 45-47, Atico M. 633 382 [email protected] dn.com

HAIRDRESSERS BUSINESS DIRECTORY 41

BCN Cuts - BARBER ShoP

Directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. With a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Gran de Gracia 223T. 93 611 [email protected] Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

HAIR CUT AND HOT SHAVE FOR €27

10% OFF

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

Merce Soler - REFLExoLoGY AND MASSAGE ThERAPY

If you’re feeling tired and stressed treat yourself to a relaxing foot and body massage. Merce will help you to leave your worries behind and gain a new sense of energy. She is a quali-fi ed refl exologist, and also trained in Tai Chi, Qi Gong and Zen meditation as well as natural medicines including DMC and EFT. She can also help with emotional management through diet.

M. 667 909 [email protected]

READER OFFER €45 ⁄ hr

MP 41-47 Apr 2013.indd 45 3/21/13 1:38:49 PM

42 BUSINESS DIRECTORY HEALTH · DENTISTS

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic - DENTIST

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona provides excellent oral care in an English speaking environment. Dr. Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is a board-certifi ed orthodontist. Dr. Javier Sanz is an American board-certifi ed periodontist and implantologist that lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care.

Rogent 40, local 2, 08026T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.comOpen Mon-Sat 9am-9pm

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE

The Vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Enjoy a winter massage wrapped in hot towels, breathing in the essence of warm oils on your skin gives you the vital touch. Makes you feel fantastic!- helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem.-Central Barcelona location. English, Swedish and Spanish spoken.


Dr. Alistair Gallagher - DENTIST

The British Dental Clinic has a patient-friendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve.

Diagonal 281Metro: Sagrada Familia (L5) Monumental (L2)T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 [email protected]

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

For all your dental needs, a team consisting of our fi rst-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. We have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you our services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Rosselló 95, local,08029, Barcelona Metro: Hospital Clinic (L5) Entença (L5)T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220www.clinicadentalcampi.com/[email protected]

Tingsvall & McCarthy - DENTIST & DENTAL hYGIENIST

This eco-friendly clinic promotes great patient care using natural products. The Swedish-trained dentist Dr. Stefan Tingsvall is on hand to provide a very caring way of treating people—he solves the problem and gets the job done. Qualifi ed USA-trained dental hygienist Elena McCarthy provides education on preventive care using effective herbal rinses and essential oils. She also offers the leading teeth whitening treatment ‘Brite Smile’.

Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 1903M. 636 312 522 / 696 664 430FGC Les Tres Torres (L6)Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, [email protected]

10% OFF Ambrosia - URBAN SPA

Treat yourself to a moment of luxury for your body, mind and spirit. At Am-brosia Spa, nature and science blend harmoniously to assure the fi nest skin care, massage and spa treatments. They use the best oils and lotions, and the fi nest ingredients to exfoliate and soften the skin, including a new ‘cava-therapy’ treatment. You can also try their Depifl ax wax to ensure gentle and effective hair removal. Their authentic Japanese treatments are done by expert Yoshitaka Nagata.

Passatge Domingo 9, 08007 T. 93 186 3342 / 628 317 320 [email protected]

€100/hr COUPLES

Dr. Christian Eickhoff deutsche zk - DENTIST

highly recommended among the international community, they use the latest in dental technology like digital prosthetics and orthodontics.The whole German team is English speaking and the doctor has an American training in implantology and orthodontics. Check-ups and x-rays are free. Centrally located.

Consell de Cent 249, bajosMetro Universitat (L1/L2)T. 93 323 [email protected]

SPECIAL OFFER

Pascual La Rocca - DENTIST

With 15 years of experience and academic excellence, Dr. Mónica and Dr. Andres Pascual La Rocca open the doors of this new dental centre which features the latest in dental technology and equipment, and a warm, friendly atmosphere. In an international environment, they strive to make their patients feel comfortable and cared for. English, Italian, Spanish, Catalan and Portuguese are spoken.

Vilamur 15, 08014, T. 93 119 [email protected] www.plrodontologos.com

MP 41-47 Apr 2013.indd 44 3/21/13 1:38:52 PM

Jonathan Lane Hooker - PSYChoThERAPIST

Jonathan hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychothera-pist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or work-shops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 [email protected]

Nick Cross - PSYChoLoGIST /PSYChoThERAPIST

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship diffi culties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.


Eugenia Espinosa - PSYChoThERAPY

Eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The fi rst consultation with Eugenia is free.


DOCTORS · PSYCHOTHERAPY · LIFE COACHING BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43

Mary D. McCarthy - DoCToR

Feel confi dent with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certifi ed as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a

T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040FGC Diagonal or Gràcia

Dr. Steven Joseph - DoCToR

Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests. his practice includes mental health.

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3)T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 [email protected] Mon-Sat

Hestia - PSYChoThERAPY

The hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The fi rst consultation is free.

Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a

Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 [email protected]

Institute Dr. Natalia Ribé -AESThETIC MEDICINE

Dr. Natalia Ribé is qualifi ed in Medicine and Surgery, with a Masters in Aesthetic Medicine and Aging from the UAB. She offers the latest techniques in the fi eld of aesthetic medicine, including botulinum (Botox), laser and collagen induction treatment, tailored in each case to provide a comprehensive rejuvenation. English, Spanish, Catalan, French and Italian spoken.

Passeig de Gracia 60, 3A T. 93 272 4228 M. 678 720 [email protected]

FREE CONSULTATION

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Dr. Boj and his team provide specialized comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B08021 T. 93 209 3994www.drboj.org

MP 41-47 Apr 2013.indd 45 3/21/13 1:38:55 PM

44 BUSINESS DIRECTORY HEALTH · SCHOOLS

Krishinda Powers Duff Bsc Hons - MIDWIFE

Krishinda is a fully-qualifi ed and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.

Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010M. 665 143 [email protected]

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SChooL

BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

T. 93 318 [email protected]

Idiomplus - LANGUAGE SChooL FoR CoMPANIES

Idiomplus is a language school which provides in-company courses and is distinguished for its innovative learning method. Learn a new language whilst developing advanced social media skills.

Learn languages with a plus with Idiomplus!

T. 93 445 1791Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 583 5ª[email protected]

Pharmacy Serra Mandri ChEMIST

The helpful and qualifi ed pharmaceutical staff at this well-known Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.

Av. Diagonal 478Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5)Chemist T. 93 416 1270Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249Open every day 9am-10pm

Natalie Jovanic - LIFE CoAChING

Are fears controlling your life? Are you overwhelmed by unpleasant emotions such as sadness or shame? You can break free of this vicious circle. Contact Natalie today and she will accompany you on your journey to help you fi nd the freedom and empowerment to live your authentic life. You will feel happier and energized with more self-esteem. She offers coaching for individuals and relationship coaching.


Hypnosis Consult - hYPNoSIS

having quit smoking using hypno-sis himself, Stephan Moellmann knows that you too can effectively quit smoking using his method, with no withdrawals or anxiety. Unlike replacement programmes, hypnosis effectively breaks the smoking habit from day one–meaning no six month cravings. his method consists of a two-hour session, either in a group or privately.

M. 696 738 [email protected] www.hypnosisconsult.com

Tania Spearman - ACUPUNCTURE

Make acupuncture your fi rst choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a €15 discount on fi rst appointments with this voucher. Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to fertility and more. Call now to make your appointment or to see if acupuncture is right for you. Tania is a UK university trained acupuncturist with her own clinic in the centre of Barcelona. English, Spanish and German spoken.

Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis 08008 M. 644 322 161 [email protected]

€15 OFF

Puff - ELECTRoNIC CIGARETTEIf you`re looking to cut down or stop smoking then Puff electronic cigarettes allow you to get the nicotine without the smoke, tar and odour of a conventional cigarette! This great product is the market leader in Italy and surpasses existing Spanish products. For a free trial quote Metropolitan to qualify for our exclusive reader offer–€40 for the electric unit and charger plus 20ml of the nicotine fl avour of your choice to last you a whole month, at 70 percent less than normal cigarettes.

Aragón 430, 08013 Metro L1 MonumentalT. 93 245 4116www.puffcigarette.com

€40 READER OFFER

MP 41-47 Apr 2013.indd 46 3/21/13 1:39:03 PM

Geo Mac - CoMPUTERS

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac com-munity in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. he can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.


TRANSPORT · HOME · IT BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45

Mrs.Q design studio - GRAPhIC DESIGN

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. Whether you have a new concept in mind that you want to see brought to life or need assistance rebranding your company, contact Mrs.Q design studio. They specialise in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Match your wedding invitations with save the dates, menus, place cards and thank you cards to create a polished look. They are now offering wed-ding stationary packages. At Mrs.Q design studio they love to design creative, engaging brand identities that help their clients fl ourish. They will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use their knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative fl air to create an identity that engages your customers. They are now offering 10 percent off their branding packages.

M. 699 260 938 [email protected]

Bateau Lune - ToYShoP

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can fi nd a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, micro scooters, kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on Virreina square in Gràcia!

T. 93 218 6907 Plaça Virreina 7, [email protected]/bateaulune

Van BCN - REMoVALS

VanBCN offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for a man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBCN adapts its service to your needs. They can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver your purchases from IKEA or any other shop to your home. Move your offi ce, your room or your house. Just contact VanBCN. They know how to do it.

T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344www.vanbcn.com

Michaela Xydi - PhoToGRAPhY

Are you are looking for photographic services for portfolios, books, events and advertisements with economical prices and outstanding results? Then contact Michaela xydi now to discuss what you would like to create. Michaela is an artist. She has a wealth of experience in both photography and design, which is refl ected in her skillful eye for detail and the elegant style of her work.

M. 600 60 40 [email protected]

Mondorent - RENTAL

MoNDoRENT is the leader in motorcycles and scooter rentals in Barcelona. With over 500 vehicles distributed throughout Barcelona and the Balearic Islands, they offer a fun, new way to see the city. You can rent a scooter, a motorcycle a quad or a bike. And don’t miss out on their newest offer, the Renault Twizy electric cars. It’s never been more fun and easy to experience the city like a native. Be Free! Rent a Scooter!

Passeig Joan de Borbó 80-84Passeig de Colón 24T. 93 295 [email protected] www.mondorent.com

10% OFF

Find everything you need here!

In our online directory ofEnglish-speaking businesses in Barcelona

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/directory

MP 41-47 Apr 2013.indd 47 3/21/13 1:39:06 PM

Sánchez Molina - LEGAL PRACTICE

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5Metro: Maria Cristina (L3)T. 93 490 [email protected]

Green Bean Coaching - BUSINESS CoAChING

helps small businesses and entrepreneurs grow their business through coaching proven growth techniques that have helped thousands boost their income.New for 2013:· Two small business programmes: Increase productivity in the workplace and increase your free cashflow coaching. · New online entrepreneur coaching: A cheat sheet to entrepreneur success— the 10 critical areas one must master when launching a business.

T. 93 112 6757 [email protected] www.freegreenbeans.com

Entity Data Protection - SERVICE

Failing to take the correct precautions with data protection in Spain, can lead to the government placing sanctions on you as a sole-trader, or your company. EDP is a firm based in Barcelona that provides services to ensure you comply with the data protection law. Don’t take the risk— give EDP a call today to see if you’re covered and get a free quote!

Av. Josep Tarradellas 134, 08029 T. 93 545 9235 M. 617 041 260 [email protected]

The Spectrum IFA Group - INDEPENDENT FINANCIAL ADVICE

Providing advice to the English Speaking International Community. our team is here to help with:• Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments• Life Cover • Health Insurance• Currency Exchange • Mortgages• Tax Planning • Asset Management

Why call us for advice? We are independent, regulated, qualified and very experi-enced, with offices in 6 European countries. Through our unique client centred approach, we will work together to build a strong, ongoing relationship that you can depend on for support and advice when-ever you need it.

Passeig de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A, 08008T. 93 665 [email protected]

Spain Accounting - TAx AND ACCoUNTING SERVICES

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years experience in Spain offers:· Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies· Income tax returns for employees & non-residents· Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL)· Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain· Fast, reliable email service

Call David Cook 678 702 [email protected]

46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY BUSINESS SERVICES

Quilter - PERSoNAL CoNCIERGE

Their personalized and discreet service relieves you of tasks that distracts you from your work and your family, allowing you time for everything that is really important to you. Quilter provides you the necessary help to regain control over your time and life. They provide services related to relocation, home management and personal assistance. Let them manage all your paperwork and to-do list so that you can live your life with less stress and less worries!

T. 618 059 [email protected]

Barcelona’s Guest - PERSoNAL ASSISTANTS

This company provides assistants who can help you with daily tasks and provide language support if you are not confident speaking Spanish. You can delegate your chores, however large or small, to their staff with total confidence, giving you complete peace of mind about the organisation of all your appointments and events. They have impeccable references from their clients. Contact them today to discuss your requirements.

Ganduxer nº14, Desp 9 08021 T. 93 539 6106 M. 666 816 168 [email protected] www.barcelonasguest.es

FREE REVIEW

MP 41-47 Apr 2013.indd 48 3/21/13 1:39:07 PM

BritSat - TELEVISIoN SERVICE

BritSat offer the best TV packages from the UK, Ireland and much of Europe, including Russia. We have been installing satellite TV in Catalunya for 15 years and have an excellent reputation for quality, reliability, price and after-sales service. * Sky cards with or without a UK address * All the latest Sky hD equipment * Sound systems and multi-screen viewingFreesat services will almost certainly be lost to this region of Spain by the middle of summer and BritSat have the solutions. * We supply and install all the latest internet based TV systems * No internet? No problem, we are the offi cial installers of the market leading TooWAY Satellite internet system * Extensive channel list from the UK and Ireland.

M. 649 605 917 [email protected] www.britsatlive.com

Easi-Sat - TELEVISIoN SERVICE have you lost Channel 5 and others? By summer 2013 most people will lose access to a wide range of UK Freesat channels.Solutions? We have them. Call us for details and options. Specialists in satellite TV, hD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reli-ability. For a personal, effi cient and friendly service call the specialists. our professional team provides satellite television from across Europeat unbeatable prices! For more information on new changes to free sat please follow us on facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@PaulDuval15’

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 [email protected] www.easisat.net

BUSINESS SERVICES BUSINESS DIRECTORY 47

INTERESTED IN DOING A DESIGN INTERNSHIP?Requirements:· English speaking· have graphic design training· have a good knowledge of Photoshop and Indesign

Send your CV [email protected]

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

MT Sailing - SAILING CoURSES

RYA Sailing and powerboat courses. Always wanted to get on the water, but didn’t know how? Now you can! MT Sailing is an RYA training centre right here in Barcelona, offering theory and practical courses at all levels from Start Yachting or Powerboat all the way to professional Yachtmaster Ocean. Internationally recognized qualifi cations are taught and examined in English. During classes, support is available in Spanish. Their fl exible course schedules include intensive, weekend and evenings. To discuss your sailing ambitions, call Michael 695 806 029 or Stephen 646 654 067. Start your adventure today!

T. 695 806 029/646 654 067 [email protected] www.mtf.com.

MP 41-47 Apr 2013.indd 49 3/21/13 1:39:08 PM

48 EMPLOYMENT

Job directoryTo advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: [email protected]

We also have a new job section on our free classifieds www.classifieds.barcelona-metropolitan.com

For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona

MP 48-49 apr 2013.indd 54 3/21/13 12:33:58 PM

EMPLOYMENT 49

MP 48-49 apr 2013.indd 55 3/21/13 12:34:01 PM

KAREN SWENSON Karen Swenson’s The Landlady in Bangkok won the National Poetry Series in the US. She presently has five books of poems. Her work has appeared in The New Yorker and The Saturday Review. Her journalism, mostly on Asia, where she spends two months of each year, has been published in The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal. She moved to Barcelona two years ago.

MICHAEL EAUDE Michael Eaude has lived in Barcelona for 25 years and is active in the city’s social move-ments as a member of the group En lluita. Con-tributor on Spanish and Catalan literature to the Independent, he is the author of Barcelona, the city that reinvented itself (Five Leaves) and Ca-talonia, a Cultural History (Signal). He has also published books on the writers Arturo Barea, Triumph at Midnight of the Century and Manuel Vázquez Montalbán,Con el muerto a cuestas.

PETRA BARNBY Petra Barnby is a writer, photographer, yoga teacher and Mum. She has been in Barcelona for two years, in which time she has fulfilled a number of dreams including writing for Metropo-litan, creating a blog, completing her first short story, getting pregnant, having a baby, learning Spanish and becoming a yoga teacher. Petra writes what she would like to read. She has made a pact with herself–if she wants to know more about something she writes about it; this way, she is always learning.

contributors

By

Ben

Row

don

scoop

Of all the filing systems in all the world, Felipe II’s mausoleum for storing dead Spanish monarchs and

their consorts must be the most exclusive—as well as the most rigorous. You have to be a king or queen to get in, obviously but while many kings had multiple wives, only the one that bore the next monarch gets a berth in the royal chamber. A royal berth for a royal birth, as it were.

It turns out that his mausoleum was also the most prescient. While the rest of Europe strug-gles to keep tabs on its dead monarchs, Spain has them neatly catalogued and available for inspection by anyone who cares to visit El Es-corial, Felipe’s morbid monastery just outside Madrid. It’s just a shame he didn’t devise a similar system for the country’s artists, or even its saints.

You wait decades for a lost king, then two turn up at once. First there was English pariah Richard III, he of the twisted spine, discon-tented winter and poor relationship with his

young nephews (who reputedly met a grisly end in the Tower of London). After several centuries of ignominious disappearance, he was recently dug up out of a car park in Leicester (although you might argue that this was just as ignominious). His discovery fol-lowed an impressive piece of detective work by a group of admirers whose delight was only slightly blunted when they found that he did, indeed, have a twisted spine, and it wasn’t just malicious rumour propagated by Shakespeare for dramatic effect.

At the other end of the Good Monarch Guide is Henri IV of France, he of the na-tional affection and convenient religious con-version (“Paris is worth a mass, even if the Champs Elysées is somewhat overrated”). He was found, rather more easily, in a cardboard box, which is no place to keep a Bourbon, even a French one. As king of neighbouring Navarre, he must surely have heard of Felipe’s “royal Rolodex”, and will have spent the last few centuries kicking himself that he didn’t

think to build one himself. Not that it would have lasted, what with those miserable French revolutionaries ransacking anything royal.

Still, at least he’s been found, which is more than can be said of poor Velazquez, Spain’s greatest painter (discuss). His remains appear to be lost forever, thanks to another car park, this time in Madrid. It’s possible that he was already lost after those pesky Napoleonic wars, but now he’s doubly lost. On the other hand, so too was Saint James, until his remains were miraculously rediscovered several centuries later. Admittedly their discovery was as con-venient as it was improbable, offering a propa-ganda victory in the Christian battle against the Moors long before DNA testing offered any inconvenient clarification either way.

No such indignities face the kings and queens of Spain in their comfortable rotunda. Everyone knows where they are, and while their resting place might be subterranean, it’s no place for a car park, so they should be safe. --Roger de Flower

My Kingdom for a Car Park

50 BACK PAGE

50. Back page.indd 90 3/21/13 1:04:19 PM

barcelona metropolitan issue 195

Documents