bank fishing 101 -

Bank Fishing 101A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO MODERN BANK ANGLING

Joli

et Junior College Anglers Club

www.Bankfisher.com

Dr. Patrick Mills, Joliet Junior College Anglers Club

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Contents

Bank Fishing Revisited................................................................................................. Page.6.A somewhat nostalgic piece that relates the excitement of childhood bank fishing experiences to those experienced in later years. A good introduction to modern bank fishing philosophy and methods...Bank Fishing’s Top Five Strategies and Secrets: Part 1........................ Page.8.A detailed review of bank fishing philosophy, with particular attention paid to “knowing what’s there”, in terms of the types and numbers of fish species typically encountered during a bank fishing expedition...Bank Fishing’s Top Five Strategies and Secrets: Part 2...................... Page.12.A review of bank fishing methods and tactics, with particular attention paid to understanding how successful angling methods are related to specific fish behaviors.

Catching More Bluegills from Your Local Pond........................................ Page.19.An in-depth article detailing how to catch good numbers of bluegill and other pan fish from retention ponds and other urban waters. Tackle, bait, as well as fishing and feeding strategies, are discussed.

Versatility the Key to Good Catches................................................................Page.23.Article detailing a trip members of the JJC Anglers Club made to the Illinois River at Ottawa, IL. Various methods employed on the day ensured a good and varied catch of fish.

Hot Tips For Cold Weather.................................................................................... Page.26.Fish location strategies and tackle tips for fishing in cold weather are discussed.

Review of Bank Fishing Methods and Equipment...................................Page.30.A review of bank fishing methods and equipment, with a focus on the types of fishing gear utilized by Midwestern match anglers. This document was originally put together as a tackle buying guide for a popular fishing store in NY State.

Web Resources................................................................................................................ Page.37.A complete list of essential web based bank angling resources, including Clubs and Organizations, Educational sites and equipment suppliers.

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Bob Maciulis is the publisher of the Outdoor Notebook, as well as an Outdoor columnist for the Joliet Herald News, Aurora Beacon News and Star Newspapers. Bob also hosts the Outdoor Notebook Radio Show on WJOL 1340-AM Joliet, IL.

Some.years.ago,.I.received.a.note.from.Dr..Patrick.Mills.describing.a.series.of.bank.fishing events he had scheduled. The focus, he said, was to educate local anglers

about the European bank fishing techniques that were becoming increasingly popular in the States. More importantly, he explained, he wanted to introduce newcomers to the joys of fishing from shore on local retention and Forest Preserve District ponds and along the many streams and river that course through the area.

During the next several years, Dr. Mills expanded his venues and, upon joining the faculty at Joliet’s Junior College, founded the Angler’s Club at the college. The Club grew quickly. I would guess that Patrick’s steadfastness in concentrating on the basics and his enthusiasm and focus on close-to-home fisheries were among the reasons that he attracted newcomers not only to the Club but to fishing.

Using the internet and the JJCAC’s website, teaching introductory fishing at Pilcher Park or being available for interviews on local outdoors radio programs or with area outdoors columnists, Dr. Mills continued to reach out, continues to build a constituency- as well as a reputation as a self-effacing, dedicated teacher who is more interested in sharing his passion for fishing and his strong conservation ethic than in his personal notoriety. In some ways, I suppose, Dr. Mills is a natural teacher. Someone who’s love for fishing, in this case, is why he gives up his own time on the water to help others to enjoy it, to learn to love it for the reasons he does.

There is also a child-like wonder that Patrick has for the outdoors, an appreciation of the magical things which are a part of every day spent on the water. That’s probably part of fishing’s charms — especially as Pat distills it. We don’t have to apologize for being amazed. Just enjoy it, appreciate it. The rest will happen.

Bob MaciulisJanuary, 2007

Foreword

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Congratulations! By selecting this publication you’ve made a decision to familiarize yourself with modern bank fishing philosophies, methods and tactics which, in turn,

can easily transform the ‘bust’ of a biteless day at the water’s edge into a ‘boom’ of bulging nets and a full creel limit. While primarily aimed at the beginner, the articles found within these pages will increase any angler’s success from the bank. Indeed, freshwater anglers, ranging from the true novice through to more experienced bass, catfish, trout or walleye specialists, will experience a revitalization their fishing through applying the contemporary bank fishing strategies and techniques reviewed here.

In addition to its broad appeal, modern bank fishing offers a convenient and refreshingly cost-effective route to becoming a successful angler. Specifically, the methods employed are particularly well suited to common venues, such as local Park District lakes and neighborhood retention ponds, which can most often be found within a short distance of any angler’s doorstep – great news for anglers with busy schedules, who may only be able to devote a few precious hours to time spent at the water’s edge; while the basic equipment required may be purchased cheaply through any tackle store. These factors also render bank fishing a great choice for families with young children, as these budget friendly methods are both easy to learn and generate frequent takes from obliging fish – in essence, the perfect blueprint for a kids’ fishing expedition with mom and dad!

The articles presented here, which have also appeared within a variety of popular outdoor magazines, should be considered as a series independent pieces that offer specific, concrete advice for anglers faced with similar angling opportunities. For example, Catching More Bluegills from Your Local Pond offers some excellent tips for angers targeting pan fish at close range; while Versatility the Key to Good Catches details how bank anglers may wish to approach fishing a river. Interested readers are also encouraged to view and/or download additional materials from the author’s website (www.bankfisher.com). Significantly, this complementary resource not only allows access to new articles, but also provides a variety of additional resources. Supplemental content includes: a forum and message board, an underwater video and photography area, ratings and reports for popular venues, and a calendar of events. Anglers wishing to contact the author directly are encouraged to do so via either the bankfisher.com website or by e-mail at [email protected].

Introduction

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The bobber dipped and then slid under - somewhere beneath the mist covered surface of that early morning mill pond a young boy’s dreams were about to

become reality. A hasty strike set the hook, prompting the youngster’s rod to tug and then arch over as his unseen quarry made a spirited bid for freedom. With a pounding heart, the boy held fast and was soon able to steer his prize toward the confines of the waiting net, proudly tended by his father. This fish was special, as it was the boy’s first. The folds of the landing net revealed his prize, a brightly colored perch of around a pound in weight. To him the fish was an unforgettable giant – a spark that would ignite an obsession for a sport he would pursue with passion only fellow anglers can truly understand.

I was a tender seven years of age at the time I caught that first fish. Even though it was more than 30 years ago, I can still recall the rough feel of the perch’s scales and see its vibrant colors in my mind’s eye, so ingrained these memories are. Most anglers can probably recant a similar tale – we never really forget our first fish, regardless of our current angling interests. While we may now classify ourselves as either bass, catfish, fly, musky or walleye anglers, those magical memories from our childhood bank fishing experiences live on within us all. We can, of course, relive these formative experiences through our children. Indeed, in common with so many other anglers of my generation, we have come to see our angling lives turn full circle. Like so many others with their own memories, I now too understand and appreciate the pride my father, net in hand, radiated at the mill pond better than 30 years ago.

While fishing from the bank is most often considered the easiest way to introduce new anglers to our great sport, have you ever considered what would happen if we revisited this branch of angling, but, while doing so, applied the same level of sophistication we typically reserve for the pursuit of our chosen sport species? The results of such an approach are, quite frankly, amazing. Proficient bank anglers regularly capture single fish in excess of 20 pounds and season best fish of better than 40 pounds, while four hour catches in excess of 400 pan fish or total bag weights of greater than 100 pounds are common. Perhaps more startling is the fact that such mammoth catches are usually taken from small, unmanaged, urban waters. How is this possible? Addressing and ultimately attempting to answer this question is what I have devoted the latter part of my angling career to, and have arrived at a number of simple conclusions. Becoming a successful bank angler is pretty straightforward. Basically, it comes down to being able to recognize, adapt and then learn to capitalize upon the basic dissimilarities between sport and bank fishing. What follows is a basic overview of this subject, along with some tips that will not only immediately increase any bank anglers catch rate, but may also help rekindle that youthful excitement we all likely experienced in childhood.

Basic Philosophy: Sport anglers typically use boats to search out, and then angle for, their chosen species. The technology utilized reflects this, with the necessary mobility and fish finding capabilities provided via speedy boats and fish finding electronics,

Bank Fishing Revisited

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respectively. By contrast, the bank angler adopts a much simpler, less mobile approach, most often restricting his or herself to a specific position on the bank. Thus, a bank angler must attract fish to their chosen fishing location, whereas a sport fisher must actively search out fish from a variety of locations. This is the most fundamental difference between the two angling styles. Top tip: by employing a strategy that relies on attracting fish to a single location, the bank angler must employ chum or some other attractant to be effective. Thus, the application of chum (or groundbait) becomes a key component within any successful bank angling strategy.

Species: When one examines DNR (or other) statistics pertaining to fish populations, some starting information becomes apparent with regard to which species dominate our most familiar bodies of water. Based solely on numbers, sunfish are by far the most dominant species found in retention ponds, lakes and reservoirs; while carp, by far, comprise the greatest biomass (total live weight) of fish in similar locations, as well as within lowland rivers. Thus, for bank anglers restricted to fishing for ‘what’s there’, ‘gills and carp essentially guarantee prolific sport, irregardless of from where the bank angler chooses to fish. In contrast, this fact is of little relevance for boat anglers, as they are necessarily required to search out members of their chosen sport species, say largemouth bass, which typically make up less than 5% of any unmanaged fishery’s population. Top tip: bank anglers, who tailor their approach to sunfish and/or carp, almost guarantee spectacular catches. This is not so say that bank anglers don’t catch sport species (they do), but their catches are most often dominated by these most prolific species. Indeed, a competent bank angler will typically catch in excess of ~ 30 pounds of sunfish, carp and/or catfish, over a typical four hour session, from pretty much any unmanaged water!

When one realizes that managed fisheries often operate strict size and bag limits for the sporting species, most boat anglers typically find themselves returning the majority of the fish they catch. Thus, in these modern times where practicing catch and release, rather than fishing for food, is the norm, it should come as no surprise that bank fishing is experiencing an upsurge in popularity? With this fact in mind, the Joliet Junior College Anglers Club (JJCAC) runs a series of free events throughout the year dedicated to providing access to relevant bank fishing seminars, fish-ins and other educational / social events. Readers are encouraged to logon to the calendar page of Bankfiser.com for more details on specific Club activities.

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Bank Fishing Revisited

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There are few more frustrating things in angling than devoting the bulk of one’s time at the water’s edge to watching a motionless bobber. After what often seems

like an eternity without even a nibble, our thoughts typically turn to the usual nagging questions: What am I doing wrong? Am I in the right spot? Do I have the right bait and gear? In order to avoid such maddening self-conversations, anglers need only to implement a checklist of five simple strategies in order to ensure a successful day’s bank fishing. Specifically, these tactics include: knowing which fish species are likely to be present; understanding how to target these species; locating where these fish are likely to be; encouraging these fish to feed; and attracting more of the target species into the angler’s fishing area. In part one of this article, presented here, the first, and perhaps most important of these checkpoints is discussed; while the remaining four, more practical, key bank fishing strategies are reviewed in part two of this piece, which begins on page 12.

A central theme common to this, as well as each of the other four (more practical) keys to success, to be discussed in part two of this article, is recognizing, understanding and then capitalizing on the basic philosophical differences between boat and bank fishing. While these two branches of our sport have a good number of commonalities, notably in terms of the types of tackle and bait used, the application of such methods and tactics within the respective boat and bank fishing environments could not be more different. Taking ‘what’s there’ first, boat and bank anglers are exposed to two vastly different sets of fishing opportunities. Boat anglers typically angle for a desired species of sport fish, such largemouth, small mouth, walleye or musky and, consequently, are often classified as such specie specific anglers. Such classifications are made entirely possible by the use of dedicated fishing boats and hi-tech fish finding gear which, in turn, allow anglers to locate and then fish for the species of their choosing. Indeed, a bass angler’s day on the water typically involves pulling up to an attractive structural feature, angling for the active fish that are there, and then repeating this procedure by moving on to the next boat dock, weed mat or rock hump. This is not, and never can be, the case for the less mobile bank angler, whom by definition is typically limited to fishing from a fixed position at the water’s edge. Indeed, if we apply the boat angler’s approach to the bank fishing environment, we immediately recognize the primary cause of ‘motionless bobber syndrome’ – of the many fish present, only a small fraction will be of the desired sport species. Once these, typically one or two, fish are captured, angling for additional specimens quickly becomes futile as there are simply no more of these species remaining. While the boat angler can simply move on to the next feature, this is not so easy for the bank fisher. Thus, for the bank angler to have a successful day at the water, bank fishing tactics must be adapted in order to fish for ‘what’s there’.

An examination of electro fishing data (supplied by the DNR and featured within publications such as the ‘Northern Illinois Fishing Map Guide’, available through tackle stores) quickly answers the ‘what’s there’ question, and by inference also informs the bank angler which species should be fished for in order to ensure a successful day’s fishing. In essence, the DNR data supports what we all learned as school children regarding

Bank Fishing’s Top Five Strategies and Secrets Part 1: Knowing ‘What’s There’

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how ecosystems the world over, all the way from the African plains through to the Midwestern prairie, or even a typical back yard pond, have ‘come into balance’ in terms of the distribution of their respective numbers of predator and prey species. Thus, if we reference these examples, some eye opening facts emerge with regard to what must also be the case for essentially every (unmanaged) body of water. Prey species numerically dominate any environment – this may be gazelle or wildebeest on the African plans, through to rabbits on the prairie, or bluegill in a local pond. In most bodies of water, prey species typically include sunfish, shad and/or shiners. Statistically, 80 out of every 100 fish in such environments will comprise such species. Why is this? Prey species, by their very nature, provide food for the ecosystem’s predators. Thus, any prey species’ survival strategy depends upon being highly prolific, and essentially ‘out breeding’ loses suffered via predation. The obvious take home message is this - angling for sunfish or other prey species will ensure good catches. Indeed, the current US record is in the vicinity of ~511 bluegills captured over a four hour period!


Most Numerous: Young Max Ford with a spectacular net of ~400 fish (bluegill and shiner), taken over four hours from a suburban retention pond.

Greatest Biomass: Dara Finnegan with a near 90 pound bag of carp (biggest 22lb.), taken in ~ 3 hours bank fishing a downtown Chicago location.

In great contrast to the pervasiveness of sunfish and other prey species, the least numerous species in any ecosystem are, by far, the predators. Examples include lions on the African plain, through to the wolf or coyote on the prairie, through to the bass, walleye or musky found in area lakes and rivers. Thus, these results become somewhat alarming for the angler intent on fishing for any of the sporting (predatory) species from the bank, since only ~5 percent of the total fish count in most waters is made up from

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these varieties. This again reinforces the point that, for the less mobile bank angler, angling for sport species becomes a largely fruitless exercise due to the fact that there are, statically, literally only one or two sport fish within casting range of the angler’s position! Is it then any wonder that the dreaded ‘motionless bobber’ is by far the norm for anglers utilizing bass or other sport fish specific methods and tactics from the bank? The take home message is reinforced – only fishing for ‘what’s there’ will ensure a productive day at the water’s edge. Unfortunately, this strategy will typically not involve angling for specific sport species, but should instead focus on non species specific methods and tactics tailored to catching the vast majority (~95%) of the remaining of the non-sporting species present.

While the symbiotic relationship between predator and prey is well know, another aspect of any ecosystem, which is often overlooked, is what I like to call the role of the ‘super vegetarians’ – species that are not predatory, yet avoid predation by growing very large. On the African plain, such species include the elephant or rhino, with the buffalo or bison on the prairie and, typically, carp or other cyprinid species within most bodies of freshwater. Such species fill an interesting ecological niche – they are less numerous than prey species, typically constituting on the order of 15% of all fish present, but, by contrast, provide by far the greatest biomass of any single group. What is biomass? Simply, biomass is the relative weight of a particular variety of fish within a given aquatic environment. For example, if it is assumed that a particular bank fishing spot contains 100 individual fish, there will likely be approximately 80 sunfish, 15 carp and 5 bass present. Now, if we consider that the average weights of these fish are typically on the order of 3 oz, 5 pounds and 2 pounds respectively, the biomass math takes an interesting turn: sunfish have a total cumulative weight of 15 pounds (15% biomass), bass 10 pounds (10% biomass) and carp an incredible 75 pounds (75 % biomass)! Clearly, for those who judge success based solely on the total weight of their catch, rather than the number and/ or species of fish captured, the ‘super veggies’ render themselves an attractive option for the dedicated bank angler. Indeed, in an era of shrinking creel limits and unpredictable water quality (where the bulk of any angler’s catches are, consequently, not typically kept for the table), it should perhaps not come as a surprise that the popularity of carp fishing has seen an upsurge in recent times, with both the Carp Anglers Group (CAG) and the American Carp Society (ACS) enjoying booms in membership. Both organizations regularly run well attended carp tournaments, whose winning purses are often counted in the thousands of dollars. Overseas, where bank fishing is by far the norm, the carp is revered as a sport fish ‘par excellence’. For example, throughout the United Kingdom, mainland Europe and Asia literally thousands of commercial (pay lake) fisheries dot the landscape. These fisheries are usually catch and release only, and are most often stocked to capacity with carp. This results in some fantastic fishing, with the current UK five hour bank fishing record standing at an incredible 414 pounds! Within the US in general, and locally in particular, there is also some fantastic carp fishing available. The current US four hour bank fishing tournament record stands 102 pounds (all carp), with verified daily catches in excess of 200 pounds of carp being recorded at venues such as Braidwood Lake, IL. This should not come as a surprise, as carp swimming in local waters typically

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comprise ~75% of the water’s total biomass, average ~5 pounds per fish, and grow in excess of 70 pounds! The take home message here is clear – bank anglers who choose target the ‘super veggie’ species (carp, buffalo etc.) will typically record catches whose total weights, by most common standards, seem astronomical. For example, a bank angler targeting carp on a typical retention pond, lake or river may be expected to catch half a dozen fish, possessing an average weight of ~ 5 pounds, over a four hour period. This yields a total carp weight in the vicinity of ~30 pounds. Additionally, since bank fishing, by its very nature, is species non specific (catches typically also feature bluegill and catfish); mixed bags of ~40 + pounds become the norm. Indeed, if the competition records of bank fishing organizations (such as the Chicago Bank Anglers) are reviewed this is indeed seen to be the case.

In Summary, while bank and boat anglers share a common arsenal of terminal tackle, rods and reels, how such equipment is effectively utilized is greatly dissimilar. While, species specific boat anglers typically adopt a ‘hunting’ style approach, i.e. moving from spot to spot and angling for active fish at each location, the less mobile bank angler is forced to adopt a decidedly species non specific ‘ambush’ style strategy in order to be successful. This finding is based upon personal experience and a basic understanding of aquatic ecosystems, in which prey and ‘super veggie’ species (the bank angler’s primary quarry) outnumber sport (predator) species by a ratio of approximately 20:1. Thus, in order to be successful, bank anglers must target the overwhelming ~95% of ‘what’s there’ - such species typically encompass the sunfish and cyprinid varieties, with an emphasis on bluegill and carp.

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There are few more frustrating things in angling than devoting the bulk of one’s time at the water’s edge to watching a motionless bobber. As was discussed in part

1 of this piece, ‘Knowing what’s There’, such frustrations can be overcome, in part, through a greater understanding of which common species are likely to be encountered during a typical bank fishing expedition. Briefly, since prey (bluegill, shiner) and ‘super veggie’ (carp, buffalo) species typically outnumber sport (predator) species by a ratio of approximately 20:1 in any single angling location they must then, in turn, become the bank angler’s primary quarry. Thus, a successful bank fishing outing will typically differ greatly, in terms of species sought and methods employed, from that experienced by boat anglers. Essentially, the specie specific methods and tactics employed by the more mobile boat angler are simply not suited to more static bank angling environment. With this basic truism in mind, our thoughts now turn to either how, for beginner anglers in particular, this can be accomplished from the perspective of a beginning from ‘blank slate’; or for more experienced anglers, how a typical boat based approach can be modified in order to become more successful at angling from the bank. The good news is that we only need to apply four simple bank fishing specific tactics in order to achieve these respective goals. Specifically, they encompass the following principles: understanding and applying the methods and tactics necessary for targeting the expected quarry species; locating where these fish are likely to be; encouraging these fish to feed; and, finally, attracting more of these species into the angler’s fishing area. The remainder of this article focuses on these four general points, which, in turn, make up checklist of practical strategies that can significantly increase any bank angler’s catches. Additionally, each of these points is reinforced through the accompanying underwater images, which were in turn captured from actual underwater video recorded in the field. Readers are both welcome and encouraged to view the original clips in their entirety at the Underwater Video and Photography Page of the Bankfisher.com website.

Equipment Needs

The good news is that most of us already possess the basic tackle, in terms of rods and reels, required to become more successful bank anglers. Indeed, in this regard bank fishing is very similar to most other forms of fresh water angling. However, where sport and bank angling strategies diverge is in the selection and application of terminal tackle. Since the bank angler is not typically targeting a specific predator (sport) specie, a wide spectrum of baits (attractive to many species of fish) will be employed in place of artificial lures and spinners etc. Perhaps most importantly, the type terminal tackle selected must match the bait employed. As can be seen from the accompanying underwater photograph (photo 1), a grub impaled on a size 6 hook has little chance of being taken by a bluegill, as this fish’s mouth can only, at best, comfortably accommodate a hook of size 16 or less. This is by far the most common mistake anglers make when fishing for non-sporting species – not taking into account the nature of the fish’s feeding habits and associated body design. The prey and ‘super veggie’ species most typically targeted by bank anglers have very small mouths in comparison to the sporting species. If we compare the feeding habits of largemouth bass and carp this becomes apparent. Bass

Bank Fishing’s Top Five Strategies and Secrets Part 2: Practical Applications

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essentially feed by first chasing down, and then ‘inhaling’, their chosen prey. Clearly, a very large mouth is required to ingest, for example, a whole fish, lizard or crayfish. This means larger sized hooks may be used comfortably with these bigger baits and/or their representative lures. In contrast, carp and other non-predatory species typically feed on worms, leaches, seeds and other smaller food items. Not surprisingly, these species have evolved smaller mouths which are, in turn, better suited to feeding on these lesser items. Thus, common bank fishing baits, such as a single grain of corn or a leaf worm, must be used in conjunction with appropriately sized hooks, typically in the range of sizes 12 – 18. The take home message is clear, anglers must use smaller baits when bank fishing and match the size of the hook used to the bait being employed.

In concert with smaller hooks and baits, more subtle lines and bite indicators (bobbers/floats) must also be employed when bank fishing. If we again compare the feeding habits of bass and carp, the reasons for such selections become apparent. Simply stated, predators are required to react both quickly and aggressively with regard to securing a prey item. Such behaviors typically translate to strong, almost unmistakable, indications as experienced by angler – such as rod tips pulling around or large bobbers dragging under. This is not the case for the non-predatory species, which typically have greater amounts of time in which they can investigate food items. Briefly, wary pan fish, as well as carp and other larger species, typically examine their food through ‘sucking and blowing’ these items in and out of their mouths several times before taking them – this less aggressive behavior is converted to those frustrating dinks and dings we often see at the bobber or rod tip. Often times, if the bait is not presented in a natural manner the fish will reject the offering altogether. Why is this? As shown in the accompanying underwater photographs (photos 1 and 2), baits behave unnaturally when either weighed down by a hook that is too large; when attached to a thick, visible line; or when connected to a bobber that is too buoyant. In such cases the bait will act in an unnatural way and, in turn, ‘spook’ the fish. The consequences to the angler are obvious, with such dinks and dings rarely evolving into positive takes. Clearly, in order to transform these timid indications into more discernible takes the bait must behave more naturally. This goal is accomplished, in addition to the use of appropriately sized hooks, though the use of lighter lines, typically of less than 6 lb test (which allow the bait to fall / flutter naturally through the water column); and replacing bulky bobbers with lighter and more hydrodynamic ‘Thill’ style floats, which then present much less resistance to a biting fish. The preferred smaller hooks, lighter lines and more sensitive floats are available in most tackle stores, most often through the trout section. Indeed, a good maxim when browsing tackle stores for items suitable for bank fishing would be to ‘think trout, not bass’ with regard to the appropriateness of such purchases. The application of this philosophy is detailed below.


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Setting up Shop

Fish are creatures of habit, a fact any angler can use to his or her advantage when deciding where to cast a lure, float or sinker. Indeed, as boat anglers know only too well, fish gravitate towards classic structure, such as submerged vegetation, rock piles, bridge pilings etc. While it would also be in any bank angler’s interest to cast towards such inviting structure, more often than not local retention ponds, lakes and rivers are largely devoid of such fish holding real-estate close to shore. However, it must also be remembered that the bank itself makes for an outstanding feature, to which the bank angler will always have easy access. Specifically, within any body of fresh water there will be a constant shallow marginal area adjacent to the bank, which will then drop way to deeper water from anywhere from 12 – 40 feet from the shore. Thus, there will always be an underwater shelf within easy casting distance of the bank angler’s location. This is important to know, as the bank fisher’s primary quarry, namely carp and bluegill, are strongly attracted to the marginal shelf. Taking bluegill first, these and other pan fish typically patrol the top of the marginal drop-off (which, in turn is typically on the order of ~1 – 3 feet in depth) in search of terrestrials or other invertebrates living among the bank side vegetation, while immediate access to deeper water affords some degree of projection from birds or other land based predators. Thus, in order to be successful when angling for pan fish, the angler need only employ a strategy which, in turn, exploits the target species’ natural feeding behaviors. This is best and most easily accomplished through the use of a short pole (sold as crappie or wonder poles for ~$10 in most stores), a light Thill style float (‘shy bite’ style is best) coupled with 4 lb test line and a size 16 trout hook. The rig is constructed with the bulk of the shot under the float, with only two or three light #8 shot pinched down the line – this allows the hook bait (typically some kind of grub or worm) to fall slowly (i.e. naturally) through the water column. Rigs


Photo 1: A bluegill battles with grub impaled on a size 6 hook, but is unable to swallow the larger hook (See the full clip at bankfisher.com.)

Photo 2: A bluegill examines a poorly presented bait before swimming away (See the full clip at bankfisher.com.)

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such as this are both simple and efficient. Indeed, the current US bank fishing record of 511 fish in 4 hours was accomplished using such a set up!

Carp and other large bottom dwelling species, such as catfish, buffalo and drum, present a different challenge, as they exhibit highly dissimilar feeding behaviors to those of pan fish. Typically, these species patrol the bottom of the marginal shelf, which for most bodies of water is usually located between 12 - 40 feet from shore, with its base typically submerged to a depth of between 4 - 12 feet. Why can these species be found at the base of the marginal shelf? There are two main reasons: First, food items either too big for, or missed by, pan fish at the top of the drop off typically roll to its base and collect there. This in itself will attract larger species. Second, the base of the shelf offers a feature along which species such as carp and catfish tend to patrol. In many ways the base of the marginal shelf may be considered as something as an aquatic ‘super highway’ for these fish, with the occasional food caches uncovered there being in many ways analogous to hungry humans discovering sporadic diners and fast food joints along the roadside! In order to be successful when angling for these larger specimens, the angler (as with the pan fish case) need only employ a strategy which, in turn, exploits the target species natural feeding behaviors. This is best and most easily accomplished through the use of either float or sinkers set ups that, in turn, allow the angler’s bait to be presented at the base of the marginal shelf. However, before a hook can be baited, the location of the shelf’s base must first be determined. This is most easily done with either a wireless fish finder or a simple weight attached to the hook of an under-shotted float rig. This process, called pluming, allows the exact depth of water to be established, with the shelf location being defined as where the bottom becomes flat after dropping away from the margins. The rigs employed will typically be matched with a slightly longer rod than normal – a 10 to 12 ft crappie rod is fine, although a steel head float rod or dedicated Euro style match rod is somewhat better. Slightly longer rods allow for more distant casts with lighter than normal terminal tackle, although rods of 8 ft or less may be used for shorter casts. A light Thill style float (‘TG waggler’ or ‘Stealth’ styles are best) coupled with a 4 - 6 lb test line and a size 14 - 16 trout hook work well. The rig is usually constructed with ~2/3 of the required shot pinched under the float (to aid with casing), with the remainder bulked at around 18 inches from the hook, with a single #8 shot positioned ~6 inches from the hook. With the float set so the bait either just touches bottom or is just over-depth, the bait will quickly reach the required depth, but then also flutter slowly through the last foot or so of the water column before coming to rest on the bottom. Rigs such as this are simple and easy to fish, with catches of carp in excess of 100 pounds possible over a 4 hour spell!

Setting the Table

Having assembled the correct rigs and located the top (in the case of pan fish) or bottom (in the case of the larger species) of the marginal shelf, how do we then go about catching good numbers of fish from these natural hotspots? Sure, we could just bait a hook, cast out and wait - after all, our hook bait is now residing in some prime fish-holding


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real estate! Significantly, and this is probably one of the greatest mistakes bank anglers often make, it is also important to actively draw fish into the fishing area after any initial residents have been captured. In this way the angler is actively taking charge of the situation, as rather than having to wait for fish to find their bait, they are instead actively attracting more fish towards it. When catching bluegill or other pan fish from the margins, this goal can be best accomplished through emulating these species’ natural feeding behaviors – in this case, by regularly introducing samples of bait to the fishing area by hand. This strategy, known as loose feeding, both quickly draws fish to the angler’s fishing area and promotes a competitive feeding response among the quarry species. Excellent loose feed baits are particulate in nature and include maggots, meal worms, or even corn. ‘Little and often’ is a phrase worth remembering, as introducing free offerings in such a manner is by far the best way to ensure the desired effect of a bite a cast - which is commonly the case if undertaken correctly! Alternatively, the angler may choose to introduce a bed of feed. Known as chumming or groundbaiting, such a strategy involves introducing a carpet of food items in and around the anglers fishing area. Groundbait (chum) can be anything from wetted bread crumbs through to chopped worm, with anglers often coming up with their own unique recipes. Although introducing chopped worm is highly effective for bluegill, groundbaiting is most closely associated with fishing for bottom feeders such as carp, catfish or drum. In such cases, a sweet flavored groundbait laced with corn seems to work best. A good basic recipe would be a 50/50 mix of white bread crumb and cornmeal wetted with cream of corn. This is not dough bait! When mixing the groundbait, it should contain just enough liquid so it holds together when squeezed in to a ball, but then rapidly disintegrates (to form a carpet of feed on the bottom) after being introduced to the fishing area. Typing ‘groundbait’ into an internet search engine will typically yield greater than 50,000 hits, with everything from the preparation of simple home made concoctions through to the effectiveness of high end commercial mixes being detailed. The novice bank angler is advised to try something more straightforward to begin with, such as the basic recipe listed above, before branching out into more species and/or conditions specific mixes. Interested readers are also encouraged to review a more detailed dedicated piece on the design and preparation of groundbait at the ‘Pat’s Patch’ section of the bankfisher.com website. Details on how a typical ground baiting strategy is undertaken at the water’s edge are discussed in the following section.

Ringing the Dinner Bell

Once prepared, several balls of groundbait are typically introduced to the angler’s fishing area in order to create a ‘catching zone’. Clearly, since the target species will be attracted to this groundbaited area, it then becomes imperative that the bank angler then present his or her hook bait over this feed. A good analogy would be that of Thanksgiving dinner, the family (fish) seat themselves around the dining room table (catching zone) in order to consume their dinner (groundbait). It is unlikely, aside from maybe that drunken Uncle laid out on the living room couch (?!), that anyone else (other fish) would be found away from the dining room table (catching zone) during dinner (the fishing session). Thus, to


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reiterate, it becomes clear that once groundbait is introduced, the angler’s hook bait must be presented over, or in close proximity to, this attractive bed of feed. A typical initial bombardment of 3 or 4 orange sized balls or groundbait creates a catching zone approximately the size of an average coffee table. Thus, the bank angler need only then present their bait within this area to ensure a steady stream of takes from the aquatic diners attracted to this underwater equivalent of a holiday feast!


Most often, anglers experience an initial flurry of bites after the initial introduction of groundbait. This is almost always due to the presence of bluegill or other inquisitive pan fish. As shown in picture 3 (as well as in actual video footage of this event at the Underwater Video and Photography Page of Bankfisher.com), bluegill just seem to appear from nowhere as soon as the first groundbait ball in introduced! While the angler may be content with catching bluegill and / or other pan fish initially, an important sequence of events will begin unravel underwater which will, in turn, require the angler to make some important decisions with regard the direction of their subsequent feeding strategy. When takes from pan fish begin to taper off, this normally implies that one of two events is likely taking place underwater. First, it may be that fish numbers within the catching zone have been significantly reduced, either through being captured by the angler or becoming spooked by, for example, a clumsy foot fall or lost fish. In such instances, the fish must be attracted back into the catching zone through the introduction of additional groundbait, with a single ball most often being enough to reignite the action. Second, if bites from pan fish seem to either stop abruptly or become very timid, this is a sure sign that larger species have appeared over the baited area. As shown in picture 4, bigger species such as carp and catfish, or even predators such as bass or walleye, will ‘bump’ prey species from the catching zone. If carp or catfish are thought to be present, quickly switching to a larger hook bait and heavier gear can often bring instant and exciting results. Similarly, when sport species are a possibility, tossing out a plug or spinner often

Photo 3: A shoal of inquisitive bluegill is immediately attracted to a ball of chum (See the full clip at bankfisher.com.)

Photo 4: Carp and other larger species “bump” smaller pan fish out of the chummed area.

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results in the capture of a much prized sport fish. For most unmanaged bodies of water, carp will likely be the first of the larger species to show – in such instances groundbait and/or loose feed should be introduced after the capture of every one or two of these fish, since such leviathans typically possess appetites in proportion to their size! In many respects, bank fishing is not so much about using the right gear and bait, but more about getting the feeding right – only in this way can impressive bags or fish be captured over an entire session. Indeed, in many ways, the art of bank fishing should really be considered the art feeding….

Summary of Top Tips

Think ‘trout not bass’ when selecting gear suitable for bank fishing..Remember the majority of fish that swim in freshwater have relatively small mouths and delicate feeding behaviors – small hooks, light line and sensitive floats are a must.

Locate the top and bottom of the marginal shelf when fishing from the bank – these are natural fish holding hotspots. Pan fish can be captured from the top of the shelf, with larger species from its base.

Create a ‘catching zone’ through the introduction of groundbait to the chosen fishing area. Be sure to fish hook baits directly over this attractive bed of feed.

Ensure a steady stream of fish by gauging what is happening underwater,.in terms of how many and which kinds of fish are feeding, and then reacting accordingly with regard to further introduction of groundbait.

Please practice catch and release, as the strategies discussed here, if implemented correctly, will significantly improve any angler’s catches from the bank.

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In common with most bank anglers, especially those on an outing with the kids in tow, my family and I tend to fish local forest preserve and park district ponds and lakes

for a few hours on weekends or during those warm summer evenings. As I’m sure most parents will agree, there’s nothing worse than having the kids sit restlessly for the entire period while watching a motionless bobber – what’s needed are frequent takes from obliging fish, as nothing else will keep the youngsters enthralled! Thus, the issue then becomes “how can we catch good numbers of fish from our local pond” - a dilemma this article will address.

Typically, local venues such as retention ponds and lakes contain large populations of smaller fish, such as ‘gills, other sunfish, bullheads and shiners. Thus, just based on sheer numbers, these fish will provide the necessary fast action kids and/or new anglers crave. While popular venues may also contain sport species such bass and/or catfish, these fish, although they do show up from time to time, are far less numerous than the smaller species, so should not be the focus during a casual family outing.

This introductory article provides a check list for the casual angler interested in significantly increasing his or her catches of pan fish. Indeed, as is discussed below, anglers should be able to boost their catch rates to over 60 fish an hour (yes, better than a fish a minute!) by making several simple modifications to their set up and approach. The following list of hints and tips are both cost effective and easy to implement and, by following the following instructions closely, the typical angler is essentially guaranteed a four fold or better increase in the number of pan fish they catch.

Tip 1 - Equipment

The good news is that most of us already posses the poles, rods and reels required for the job. Typically, ‘gills can be captured easily from the margins so light actioned cane,.glass fiber or carbon fiber fishing poles (sold as ‘crappie poles’ or similar at your local store) between 10 and 16 feet in length are ideal. Light action rods of seven feet or greater in length are also adequate, but the simple pole is a cheaper and more effective approach. Since, as is discussed below, small hooks, delicate floats and light line are to be implemented, light or ultralight rods must be used in conjunction with these items of.tackle..

Tip 2 - Floats (bobbers)

By far the biggest mistake people make when fishing for the smaller species is using a bobber that is just plain not suited to the task at hand. I know most of us used the good ‘ol red and white bobbers when we were kids, and continue to do so to this day, but the use of this particular style of float leads to a significant reduction in the number of ‘hittable’ takes - its not called a ‘bobber’ for nothing you know(!). The ineffectiveness of the ‘red and white’ can be explained in terms of the mechanics of the bite. Typically, we want to see a ‘sail under’ bite from the fish, with the bobber (float) disappearing beneath the surface. This unmistakable indication is then ‘hit’ by the angler and the fish hooked. In order for this to happen, the fish must apply enough force to sink the float

Catching More Bluegills from Your Local Pond

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on the take. Now, here in lies the problem - if the force required to sink the float is too great, the fish will feel an unnatural resistance on the take and will most likely reject the bait. Clearly, reducing this force would lead to more ‘hittable’ sail away bites, but how can this be accomplished? Well, it all comes down to two principle factors - 1) the buoyancy of the visible above water portion, or tip, of the float and 2) how streamlined, or hydrodynamic, the body of the float is. Essentially, less force is required to pull under a float possessing a low buoyancy tip and /or a streamlined body shape. The take home message here, which naturally follows from these facts, is that the angler should use a float with a slim, streamlined profile that also possesses a small visible tip. The most commonly available floats of this type in the US are the Little Lindy ‘Thill’ brand shy bite floats. These floats are reasonably cheap and may be purchased at most tackle stores.

Tip � - Hooks, line, sinkers and bait

During the warmer months, as well as most other times of the year, pan fish generally feed by intercepting food (usually insects) as they fall or move through the waters surface layers. Thus, in order to catch pan fish in an efficient manner, it is best to take advantage of this inherent feeding response. Thus, the angler must use a small, insect like bait that must in turn fall through the water slowly - in much the same way as a natural offering would. This method is called is called ‘fishing on the drop’ and is most efficiently achieved through the use of fine lines and small hooks, with ultra small split shot used on the line. The small hooks, light line and small split shot required are easily obtained the trout section of fishing stores. Each of these three components are vitally important to this style of fishing, as a slow fall of the bait through the water can only be achieved through implementing these components in tandem. Why is this so?


Worst - the traditional red and white bobber. Most anglers fish this float with at least half the body (the white part) proud of the water. The “tip” is therefore very buoyant. Bites are very difficult to detect with such floats, hence they “bob” rather than slider under!

Better - the Little Lindy ‘Thill Mini-Stealth.’ The smaller yellow tip is less buoyant, and the float as a whole more streamlined than the traditional “red and white.” An adequate float for catching aggressive ‘gills up in the water or in very shallow water.

Best - the Little Lindy ‘Thill Shy Bite.’ The small tip and narrow body of this float make it an ideal choice of most kinds of short range fishing. Bites are very easily detected as “sail aways” with floats such as this.

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Taking the split shot first. Small shot obviously fall through the water at slower rate than larger shot. Thus, by placing three or so evenly spaced #8 or #10 shot down the line, the hook bait will have a slow drop through the water, while the shot will also allow for any movement of the bait (initiated by a fish) to be seen. Don’t be tempted to put no shot whatsoever down the line as, although this will result in a very slow and natural drop of the hook bait, little indication will be seen when a fish takes the bait and many gut hooked fish will result. Several #8 or #10 shot down the line is the best compromise in terms of having a slow drop and detecting bites from the fish. A low diameter ‘invisible’ nylon or fluorocarbon line must also be used. In addition to the fact that fish cannot see low diameter lines very easily, thicker gauge lines have an inherent stiffness which, in turn, translates to an unnatural fall of the bait. Since the fish we are after generally don’t top half a pound, a line of 2 - 4 lb breaking strain is good choice in terms of its suppleness, diameter and strength. Finally, it is important to match the size of the hook used to the bait employed. If a hook is too large for a bait, this may result in the bait either behaving unnaturally (the hook outweighs the bait, causing it to behave dissimilarly to any loose offerings of the same bait) or being difficult to take by the fish (small fish simply cannot ‘swallow’ larger sized hooks). Conversely, if a hook is too small for a bait, its point often becomes masked by the bait, causing fish to be ‘bumped’ on the strike. Ideally, the hook and bait should be of approximately the same size and, when the bait is mounted on the hook, the point of the hook should be just slightly exposed. A good ‘gill / pan fish hook bait is either two spikes or a section of worm. Hooks of size 14 or 16 (again, available in the trout section) work best with these baits.

Putting it together

The following is a general description of how the most efficient competitive bank anglers put the above information to good use - often times catching in excess of 400 bluegills over the span of a four hour competition!

Prepare a short ( ~10 - 16 foot) pole rig. The rig should consist of a light 1 or 2 BB (1/64 or 1/32 oz) ‘shy bite’ or similar style float in tandem with line of less than 4 pounds b.s. and a fine wire trout hook of size 16 or so. The pole and line used should be of the same


The author used the methods discussed here to catch a tournament winning ~30 pound net of bluegills during the 2005 US Open Bank fishing championships.

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length - this will allow each fish hooked to be swung to hand. Start with the float depth set to around two or three feet (assuming the water is deeper than this, set to just under full depth if it is not), with only 3 or so evenly spaced # 8 or #10 shot attached to the last 2 or 3 feet of line - this will ensure the hook bait drops slowly through the water. Have the last shot pinched on the line at around 4” - 6” from the hook, this will aid in detecting bites and avoid gut hooking fish. The balance of the split shot, most likely 3 or so #4 shot, should be pinched on to the line right under the float. When cast out, the float should settle so that only the red tip is visible. Adjust the ‘bulk’ shot under the float until this is so. Pinch down the barb of the hook - this will allow for easier hooking and unhooking of the fish. Very few fish will be lost by pinching the barb down, as most often the small quarry species will be swung directly to hand in one smooth strike and retrieve.motion..

Regularly ‘loose feed’ in the vicinity of the rig. Most pan fish are classified as insectivores – they prey almost exclusively on insects, that in turn, fall into the water (this is especially true of bluegills). Thus, the best way to attract pan fish is to take advantage of their natural behaviors and introduce regular amounts of chopped worms or spikes to the fishing area. These free offerings (loose feed) will bring fish into a specific small area and force them to compete for food. Indeed they will essentially be waiting for a bait to fall past their noses and will jump on any hooked offering! Also, since hook baits unavoidably fall through the water a little more quickly than free offerings it is advisable to follow the loose feed with the rig – a deadly trick, as the heavy hook bait essentially catches up with the slower falling free offerings and a take usually ensues as the fish dart around, mopping up the available food items. It is generally not necessary to loose feed before every cast, as each helping of bait will keep the fish interested for a few minutes.

Advanced tip: Find the fish and judge their ‘mood.’ While the above advice will inevitably lead to more fish being caught, it is often possible to hone ones catch rate by playing a few tricks. Dependent on the weather conditions encountered, pan fish can suspend at virtually any depth from a few inches under the surface to just a few inches off the bottom. While fishing at 2 - 3 feet down is a good place to start, try moving the float up and down in increments of a foot or so until you attract more bites. Generally speaking, the warmer the conditions, the shallower the fish will be. Often times, fish will tend to move up in the water during a session. They do this to intercept the loose feed before their brethren, and so get a better shot at a meal. If bites tail off or become ‘twitchy’ during a session, shallow up the rig and see what happens - bites will likely start coming thick and fast once more. Occasionally, the fish seem hard to catch. During times such as these it often pays to try and goad the more aggressive fish into a take. Do this by either ‘jigging’ or ‘trolling’ the hook bait in and around the fishing area. This trick can really pay dividends, as often fish will only hit a moving bait.

In conclusion, by following the above tips the average angler cannot help but increase their catch rates of pan fish, particularly ‘gills. These strategies really do work, so anglers are strongly urged to practice catch and release.


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The Midwest’s rivers offer some fantastic sport for the bank angler, everything from popular sport species, such as smallmouth and walleye, through vast numbers of

schooling species, such as drum, to bottom feeding leviathans, such as catfish or carp, may be caught. How can the bank fisher take advantage of this potential bounty? The answer lies in adopting a versatile approach. Anglers are often categorized as being bass, walleye, catfish, or some other species specific angler. The thing is, in practice this is almost never the case. How often have you gone out for cats and caught nothing but carp, or tried for northern pike and had hits from nothing but walleye? In my book, a fish is a fish, and I actually go out of my way to make my approach as species non – specific as possible. Such a philosophy almost always guarantees a bulging net of diverse species, as well as a great day on the water, but the question of interest is ‘how’? In this article you’ll discover some simple and effective methods that can be used to temp all of the above mentioned species, often, as is detailed below, within the same fishing session. Such an approach was recently used by members of the JJC Anglers Club during an outing to the Illinois River at Ottawa, IL. What follows is a detailed review of the outing as experienced by those taking part, namely Chris Baltas, Jim Mowatt and myself, as we tempted a 30+ pound catch of catfish, carp, drum, small mouth and assorted pan fish over a short four hour period.

Jim and I arrived at Allen Park, situated just off Rt. 23 in Ottawa, at around 9:30 am on a crisp morning in early May. As I’d never fished the Illinois River before, we decided to have a quick ‘cast around’ with a Smartcast fish finder. The electronics revealed a 3 foot deep shelf out to about 12 – 20 feet from the park’s concrete seawall over its entire length, dropping to a level 7-8 feet depth beyond that, with a slight deepening (perhaps not surprisingly) around the boat launch and Rt. 23 bridge supports. This information was key, as fish tend to use submerged shelves and drop offs as ‘underwater highways’. If you can locate the nearside shelf, on a river, lake or pond, it always pays to fish the deep water just past this feature, as this will essentially guarantee a continued flow of patrolling fish entering your fishing area. Indeed, it was with this idea in mind, and with the threat of impending poor weather, that we planned our strategy around fishing ‘over the shelf’ beneath the Rt. 23 bridge.

Knowing where the fish are likely to be and actually catching them are, clearly, two different things. In order to concentrate the patrolling fish in our chosen fishing area we prepared a groundbait (chum) and introduced 8 or so baseball sized helpings just over the shelf in 7 feet of water. What groundbaiting (chumming) does is provide an attractive, available food source for passing fish, which then stay in the anglers’ area for a period of time. Such an approach can yield some real bumper catches – the world banking record currently stands at 415 pounds of fish in 5 hours! – a feat that would not have been possible without the ‘magnetic’ fish attracting properties of a good groundbait. A decent basic groundbait can be made from equal parts cornmeal and white breadcrumbs, with extra sweet (such as cookie crumbs) or savory (such as fish or blood meal) ingredients added to give the mix extra ‘kick’. On the day we used a mix flavored with cookie crumbs and dried molasses as, from experience, most species of fish seem to have a

Versatility: The Key to Good Catches

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sweet tooth. Last, and most importantly, groundbait and dough bait should not be confused. A groundbait is not ‘doughy’ and should fall apart when rubbed between the hands – such a consistency is essential for creating an attractive carpet of feed in the anglers’ fishing area. Details pertaining to groundbait to recipes and mixing instructions can be viewed at bankfisher.com’s dedicated groundbait section, or obtained from the author via e-mail upon request.

With the shelf located and groundbait introduced just beyond this ‘underwater highway’, all that remained was the task of introducing our hook baits to the prepared fishing area. The rigs used featured modified sinkers called method feeders, which can be either home made or purchased from a variety of outlets, the closest being Wacker Baits of Oak Park, IL. Briefly, a method feeder is simply a regular 1 oz+ sinker with a coil of loose fitting wire wrapped around it. The job of the wire coil is to hold a ball of groundbait tight to the sinker when cast, which in turn introduces groundbait to the immediate vicinity of the hook bait when resting on the bottom. Regular egg or other in-line sinkers can also be used, but with a ball of chum mounded directly around the lead. The key with this method is to use a short (~ 6 inch) hooklength, small (~ 12 – 14) hook, small (single corm, several spikes, or worm segment) bait and a fixed sinker or method feeder. This devastatingly effective rig results in fierce takes as fish attacking the chum ball suck in the hook bait and, typically, hook themselves against the weight of the lead. In many respects, the rig is similar to the paylaker’s highly effective pack bait rig.


TYPICAL METHOD FEEDER RIG

Reel line 6 lb. or 8.lb..

Method

Size 14 Short 3” hook-length of.

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On the day we fished action was immediate – Jim hooked and lost a large carp first put in (while I was still setting up!), while his second put in resulted in a 6 pound carp. My first cast resulted in the biggest fish of the day (an 8 pound carp), which took a while to land after trying to wrap my line around a bridge stanchion (who says fish aren’t smart!?). Over the course of the next four hours we bagged a total of 4 more carp, 6 drum, 2 catfish and several bluegill. Chris, who joined us later, fished with minnows for smallmouth (as the local anglers were doing) and managed a single smallmouth of around a pound in weight. It’s amazing, Jim and I were fishing for ‘whatever swims’ and ended up with ~ 30 pounds of fish, while Chris and the three or so local ‘species specific’ anglers in attendance managed a few smaller fish for a combined total of less than five pounds. On the day, as it always seems to be, versatility was definitely the key to bumper catches.

Pat and Jim with a fine brace of carp, caught from the Illinois River, below the Rt. 23 road bridge, in Ottawa.

Clearly, even though these highly effective methods are reasonably straightforward to implement and feature easily obtainable equipment, this style of fishing probably seems more than a little alien to most anglers. With this in mind, the Joliet Junior College Angler’s Club sponsors a variety of free local bank fishing events that feature instruction in these versatile methods. Anglers interested in attending any JJCAC event, or learning more about the club’s activities, should check the calendar page of bankfisher.com for details.

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Introduction

During the early spring, just after ice out, water contained within our lakes, rivers and ponds remains very cold. Fish can be difficult to both locate and catch during

this time, as they tend to shoal in specific deep-water areas and, due to their slowed metabolisms, are typically lethargic and tend to adopt timid feeding behaviors. However, it is possible for the bank fisher to make some excellent catches during this time. The following tips detail how, by allowing for and adapting to these specific conditions, this goal can be accomplished.

Locating fish on lakes and ponds

Tip #1 – During the frigid late winter and early spring, fish of all species generally shoal up in ‘warmer’ deep-water areas. This behavior is related to the fact that water in the range.of.4oC – 0oC (~39oF – 32oF) is less dense than water above this range, meaning it rises to the surface before turning in to ice. Thus, under the coldest conditions, locating fish can sometimes be as simple as casting ones bait into the deepest (or ‘warmest’) part of the lake or pond. However, just because ones bait is within the vicinity of the fish, this does not guarantee that it will be taken. This point is addressed further in tip #6.

Tip #2 - Following on from tip #1, it is important to remember that fish will generally migrate to warmer water as conditions allow. Therefore, as weather conditions improve fish may be found in shallower water closer to shore. This behavior may follow either of two trends – after a few days of mild weather, during which time the temperature of the water has remained above 4oC during both nighttime and daylight hours, or during bright daytime conditions when direct sunlight may rapidly warm the shallows by a significant degree. This latter effect can be particularly evident around midday, so it is often of benefit to bank fish a venue over the more productive hours of ~11:00 am – 3:00 pm during the cooler months. The points so far discussed pertaining to water temperature illustrate an important fact – by either estimating or actually measuring the water’s temperature, the angler can come up with a best guess of where the fish will be holding at our local lake or pond. Thus, it is of benefit to carry a thermometer in order to check the venue’s temperature close to shore. A personal rule of thumb is that if the water temperature in the shallows is 5oC (39oF) or greater, then a close range pole or bobber (float) approach is used, but if the shallows are at a lower temperature than this critical value, then either long range sinker or float tactics are preferred. These specific approaches are discussed further in tip #6.

Tip #� - Fish from the windward (sheltered) bank of a lake or pond during the cooler months. For example, if the prevailing winds are out of the Northwest, then fish from the NW bank of the venue. This tactic has two principle benefits – first, the angler will generally be protected from the prevailing wind, or at least have his or her back to it. Not only does this approach allow for a more comfortable fishing position, (much better than having a brisk winter wind blowing directly into ones face), but bite detection also becomes easier when fishing calmer water. Second, as the wind blows across the venue

Hot Tips for Cold Weather

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it will produce two effects - in addition of causing the top most layers of the water to be pushed towards the venue’s opposite (SE in our example) bank, it will also significantly cool this water. As a result of these effects, the temperature of the water blown into the leeward (exposed) bank will plummet, resulting in any fish present to most likely vacate the area.

Locating fish on rivers

Tip #� – In many ways, locating and catching fish from rivers during the cooler months can be a far less complicated than performing an equivalent task on any lake or pond. This truism can be traced to one simple fact – in common with their still water counterparts, the metabolisms of all river fish also slow down as water temperatures drop. Thus, in order to conserve energy most species relocate to either deeper and/or slower river stretches with the onset of cooler weather. Bearing this fact in mind, the angler is advised to target the deeper features of rivers – holes, the outside of bends, bays and above dams, during the cooler months. Interestingly, even though both river and still water fish retreat to deeper water during cooler periods, they may do so for different reasons. For river fish, which must constantly expend energy by swimming against the current, residing in deeper and/or slower stretches provides a mechanism for such species to conserve energy and, therefore, function with a reduced metabolic rate. However, it should also be noted that river fish typically maintain slightly higher metabolic rates than their still water brethren under similar temperature conditions. This is due to the fact that such fish must continually expand energy by swimming against the river’s current. This latter point is good news to the angler, as river fish must necessarily feed more frequently than their still water counterparts during the cooler months. Thus, given a choice, a personal rule of thumb would be to fish a river in preference to a still water when water temperatures are within a few degrees of freezing.


A happy, but very cold Pat holding a match winning (12 pound) bag o’ bluegills, caught during an early season event at Barth Pond, Downers Grove, IL. Proof that bluegills bite even on the coldest of days!

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Tackle and tactics

Tip #� - Having determined the most probable location of the fish, how do we go about catching them? Simply stated, in order to attract fish to the vicinity of or hook bait, hold them there and eventually attract takes from our quarry, some kind of groundbait (chum) must be introduced to our chosen swim. Groundbaits work by first attracting fish, through releasing an attractive smell, then providing a readily available ‘carpet’ of food in order to keep these fish within the desired (‘groundbaited’) area. Groundbaits themselves can be very simple – a 50/50 mixture of cornmeal and white bread crumb, combined with water and mixed into fluffy balls that, in turn, fall apart when thrown into the water, works well in summer. However, under cold-water conditions a more sophisticated approach is required. First, since the fish require less food, the food value of the groundbait must be reduced. Passing the dry, pre-mixed groundbait ingredients through a coffee grinder typically accomplishes this task. The resulting fine powder contains very small particles that, when eventually introduced to the water via the finished groundbait will not overfeed the fish. Additionally, the finished groundbait may also be ‘cut’ with up to 50% damp soil before being introduced to the water. This also has the effect of allowing a larger groundbaited area to be established, while simultaneously not introducing an excessive amount of feed. Second, the attractiveness of the groundbait must be enhanced. This an easily be accomplished by adding some kind of flavoring to the groundbait during mixing – vanilla and strawberry food flavorings work well, as do garlic and fish oil ‘lure sprays’ sold through most tackle stores. This is necessary as scents and flavors diffuse at a much slower rate in cold water, thus by increasing their concentration this drawback is overcome. A small number of hook bait samples should also be added to the groundbait. If using worm on the hook, chopped or pulped worms make for a deadly groundbait additive. Typically, between two and five orange sized balls of low feed/winter groundbait should be introduced to the area to be fished. The angler should then fish his or her bait over this area until the number of takes begins to tail off. This may not happen during the session, but if it does a further two or three balls groundbait should be introduced.

Tip #� – Following on from tip #5, having attracted fish into the area to be fished through the introduction of a suitable groundbait, the angler is free to fish a hook bait over this groundbaited area. However, due to the fact that fish in cold water can be notoriously lethargic and/or ‘finicky’, ultra light tackle, coupled with the most sensitive of bobbers (floats) or other terminal tackle, must be utilized. Additionally, since the appetites of the quarry have become diminished (due to the fact that they have reduced metabolic rates), small baits, and therefore hooks, must be also used, as they also provide the best chance of inducing a take. Typically, a sensitive float, such as a Thill style ‘shy bite’, is fished in conjunction with line of ~2 lb breaking strain and a fine wire hook of size 18 or 20. Small baits such as double or single maggot (spikes), or a half to one inch section of chopped worm are typically employed, although a single grain of corn or a larger section of worm mounted on a size 16 or 14 hook may be used if larger species such as catfish or carp are sought. The bait is most often fished so it just touches bottom, appearing (from the


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fishes point of view) to protrude from the groundbaited area. Additionally, if fishing at short range with a rod or pole, it is often possible to ‘jig’ or ‘twitch’ the bait in order to provoke a take with such a rig. If a sinker set up is used for fishing at longer range, the hook bait should be fished on a short leader of a foot or less in length with the point of the hook exposed from the bait. The sinker should also be fixed in place and be of at least one ounce in weight. This is essentially a self-hooking rig and will result in takes being easy to spot. Also, the hook bait can be rendered partially buoyant, and therefore more visible to the fish, through the use of a worm blower or by attaching a small piece of sponge foam to the shank of the hook.

More details

The above tips and hints provide a good basic description of how good numbers of fish may be caught from our ponds, lakes and rivers and during the cooler months. For additional information and free access to more detailed articles on these and other bank fishing topics (including groundbait recipes and detailed rig descriptions), the reader is encouraged to visit to the Pat’s Patch area of bankfisher.com.


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Overview

The following document provides a description of how I and other competitive bank anglers typically go about catching fish (of any species) from the bank at

local venues. Such venues are typical those found on every urban or suburban angler’s doorstep and include, but are not limited to, Park District and Forest Preserve lakes and ponds, retention ponds, and ‘sluggish’ small – medium sized rivers. It is hoped that the information presented here will provide the reader with an idea of the equipment that is required to reap the significant rewards that such approaches offer.

For those interested in purchasing similar gear, throughout this report I have used bold, italicized type to indicate items that I use that can, in turn, be obtained through various domestic and overseas suppliers. Obtaining gear either domestically or from overseas via mail order is a pretty safe and stress free experience and well worth the trouble to obtain more specialized (and effective!) equipment. Interestingly, Wacker Baits (wackerbaits.com) of Oak Park, IL currently carries an essentially complete range of Fox carp equipment and, due to local demand, a reasonable range of Fox match gear.

The following descriptions are split into four separate categories, that in turn ‘cover the bases’ with regard to how myself and other competent match/bank anglers typically tackle the types of venue mentioned above. The four major categories are: Waggler fishing, Short pole (whip) Line to hand fishing, Long pole fishing and Swimfeeder/leger fishing. We do not typically fish with ‘top and bottom’ stick or Avon type floats and center pin reels, as one would for trout on a pacey stream or small river, as such venues are very rarely fished. I have presented seminars at Joliet Junior College and elsewhere relating much of the material discussed here – the reader is urged to log on and download the PowerPoint presentation at the Articles and Presentations page of bankfisher.com

Waggler Fishing

As is the norm when I go bank fishing I essentially follow a very similar procedure with regard to the set up of my fishing station. My seatbox is placed as close to the water’s edge as possible and then made level using its adjustable legs. I also rest my feet on a footplate attached to the front legs of my seatbox. A level seatbox is more comfortable, plus essential for fishing the long pole (which is the most commonly used bank/match fishing method, and will be discussed below). I then attach a side tray to the left side of my seatbox – this allows for bait and essential equipment needed during the session to be kept close at hand. When waggler fishing, this will be my bait (stored in maggie boxes), Drennan loose feed and/or groundbait catapult(s) and a towel. I also attach my keepnet.to.a.bank stick and place it in the water in front of my footplate; screw a rod rest head into another bank stick and place it in a one o’clock position to the right side of my footplate. I will rest my 13 ft waggler rod (match or carp waggler rod) on this when fishing. I also set up a landing net (handle.and.head) and place it to my left with its handle within easy reach. I also keep my match disgorger within easy

Review of Bank Fishing Methods and Equipment

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reach – most often on a string around my neck.

Having set up my fishing station I begin assembling my rig(s). Waggler fishing is typically conducted at ranges between 15 and 30 yards out, with floats taking between 3 AAA and 4 SSG required to cast the distance. My personal favorites for swims of 3 feet or less in depth are the Drennan Puddle Chuckers, which are ‘stumpy’ and made of transparent plastic. Such floats really help avoid spooking fish in clear and/or shallow water. In deeper or more colored water a longer Kamasan or Drennan peacock waggler is preferred – the extra length keeps the angler’s line under the surface, and so less affected by wind. Straight wagglers are used when fishing over-depth for bottom feeders such carp and cats (their thicker tips don’t pull under as easily), while insert (thinner tipped) floats are used when fishing off bottom for pan fish. A typical pan fish rig will consist of 2 – 4 pound test line, an insert puddle chucker or insert peacock waggler float (attached bottom end only and locked in place by 90% of the shot needed to cock it, with the rest, typically a few number 6 or 8 shot, evenly spread out between the float and hook). Carp and cat rigs are similarly assembled, but feature 4 – 6 pound test line and a straight puddle chucker. A size 14 Kamasan B611 spade end hook is typically used when fishing for cats or carp, while a size 18 Kamasan B520 spade end hook is used in conjunction with smaller baits, such as spikes, for pan fish. I keep my hooks on pre-tied leaders in hook wallets (although pre-tied hooks to nylon.are.also.available). Spade end hooks are tied using a spade end hook tier. Spade end hooks offer a better presentation than eyed hooks. However, analogous eyed versions of the 611 and 520 hooks (B 525 and B 980) are available and work very well. The depth of the swim is found by either pinching a large shot on to the hook and then ‘pluming up’, or by using a dedicated plumet. If carp or cats are sought the float is set a little over depth (more so if windy), while if pan fish are expected the float is set so the bait comes to rest an inch or so off bottom.


Nine carp for 54 pounds in three hours!Carp on!

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The key to amassing large weights when bank fishing I accurate feeding – this basic truism is common to all four of the major methods discussed. In a nutshell, the angler must consistently cast their rig and introduce their bait to the same small area in order to be successful. When fishing the waggler this task is accomplished by using the float itself as a ‘target’ for loose feed and/or groundbait. Thus, the float must be consistently cast to the same spot each time. This task is accomplished by applying two simple ‘tricks’: First, cast the rig out to a comfortable distance, then trap the reel line behind the line clip on the reel’s spool. In this way the float can only travel a fixed distance and no further each cast. Next, dip the rod tip under water and quickly reel in three or four turns - this sinks the line and, consequently, keeps the float in one spot (the angler’s fishing spot!), even in high wind. Second, when casting out always cast to a far bank ‘marker’, such as a tree or building - the angler then consistently achieves both accurate distance and direction on each cast. Once the angler has his distance and direction feed is periodically introduced via either loose feed and/or groundbait catapult(s)..

Whip Fishing

Whip fishing is the simplest and most efficient bank angling method – period! It is highly effective for bluegills and other pan fish that inhabit the margins or ponds and lakes during the summer, and consequently makes for a ‘non-fail’ match technique. The whip has probably accounted for more match wins than any other single method, especially when the larger species won’t cooperate.

Whip gear and rigs are very simple – a carbon fiber or glass fiber pole of around 16 feet in length is used (what are sold in tackle stores as crappie poles work well), to which is tied an equivalent length of two or three pound test line. A small size 20 – 16 barbless hook (Kamasan B 510) terminates the rig, with a light pole float competing


A bucket of whip caught ‘gills for Elise.

An angler getting into a rhythm while whip fishing.

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the outfit. My favorite whip float is a 0.25 or 0.50 gram Drennan Quad, attached to the line with silicon tubing.

Fishing the whip is all about rhythm – feed, cast, strike, swing, unhook, and then repeat. Maggots (most often double on a size 16) make for the best bait as they are robust and can be used for up to approximately ten fish before being replaced. Since the fish are swung to hand barbless hooks are preferred as they speed up unhooking, while the fish don’t typically wriggle off during the swing retrieve. Regular feeding is the key - between six or so maggots introduced before each cast (with the rig then dragged on to the spot where the free offerings went in) almost guarantees a take as the fish chase the spikes around. The best whip catch I have heard of is 511 fish in 4 hours!!

Long Pole Fishing

While whip fishing can be described as the most efficient bank fishing method, in terms of the total number of fish caught, the long pole must be described as the bank fishers’ most devastating method, as it generally accounts for much greater total weights of fish. The reasons for this are two fold: First, pole fishing allows the angler to fish exactly over his or her groundbait and, second, pole fishing allows for a degree of control over the angler’s rig (and bait) that greatly surpasses all other methods. The only real disadvantage the pole possesses is that the angler can only fish out from the bank to the maximum length of their pole, which (although poles are available to 17 meters) is realistically limited to ~ 12 meters. My personal choice of pole is a Maver H41 – it is a 14.5 M ‘match’ model, meaning it is light and stiff, but lacks strength. In all honesty I feel it isn’t quite up to the job of landing a double figure carp and, in hindsight, I should have originally ordered a more robust ‘power’ model. My recommendation for the US angler who demands the best would be the Diawa Spectron Power or Diawa Tournament Professional (both retail in excess of $3000!). For the angler beginning pole fishing the models offered by Fox (via Wacker baits) offer good value for money and decent strength.

When fishing the pole I take full advantage of its inherent advantages, and do so by following a set procedure: After setting up my fishing station, as described above, I then set up a tulip style rod rest to my right (such rod rest heads trap the tip end of the pole during re-baiting etc.). I then set up my pole roller some five or six yards behind and slightly to the right of my seatbox. The pole roller allows the long pole to be run backwards through the angler’s hands quickly when re-baiting, playing fish etc., and supports the but end of the pole while re-baiting etc. In addition to the tulip rest, a pole roller is essential to fishing the long pole effectively. I also set up a pair of pole roosts.(rig rests) to my left, which are basically rectangular pieces of foam with groves cut in. These are where extra pole and cupping top kits (the last 2 or three sections of the pole, to which the rig is attached) are kept. I own a pair of Drennan ‘Team England’ rig rests, one of each size (although two of the larger size would be better). Rigs are kept on pole winders and secured by rig anchors. I prefer the Drennan ‘Choppa’ pole floats in the 0.5 gram size for shallow water carp fishing and the Preston PB 20.in the 0.5 or 0.75 gram sizes for deeper water. Carp rigs are typically tied using 5 or 6


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pound test Preston Power line, with a size 14 Kamasan B 611 hook finishing the rig off. Pan fish rigs typically incorporate either a Drennan ‘Quad’.or.Preston PB 19 floats in the 0.4 – 1.0 gram sizes. The Drennan Tipo float is also good. The hook is a.size 20 – 16 Kamasan B520,.tied.to 2 or 3 pound test rig line. I use top kits fitted with size 12 or 14 elastics for carp and size 6 elastics for pan fish. I have 5 top kits in total – each has a bung, appropriate internal elastic, appropriate diameter (for the elastic used) PTFE tip bush and elastic- line connector..I.also have a Drennan cupping kit – a top kit with a small cup attached, which allows for the accurate feeding of groundbait. Finally, I insert a ‘skid bung’ in the butt section of my pole, such devices prevent damaging the pole when shipping back. Drennan offer ‘Skid Bungs’, with the diameter chosen to fit the angler’s pole. For a full review of top kits and other essential pole bits and bobs see the Tackle Box section of Pat’s Patch at bankfisher.com.

Having set up my gear and rigs I then mix up my groundbait in my Drennan Team England groundbait bowl(s) (although any circular bowl(s) will do). It is important to mix up the groundbait at least half an hour before fishing commences, as it absorbs water quite slowly. I then plumb the depth all around my swim, out to the complete length of my pole. I do this to locate the ‘drop off’ (or other fish holding features), which can normally be found between 4 and 9 meters from the bank. Larger fish love to patrol just over the drop off, so it is important to find and fish just past it. Once found, I mark my pole with liquid paper at the length where the shelf is – this ensures totally accurate fishing later in the session. Once the depth of water just past the shelf is established, I set all my rigs to this depth and similarly mark up their respective top kits (where the float tip rests against the top kit) accordingly with liquid paper. The rigs are then ‘fine tuned’ with micro shot (good quality Anchor shot in the AAA – 12 range can be purchased in the trout section of larger outdoor stores, such as Gander Mountain) until they sit ‘just right’, with the length of line between the float and pole tip shortened to ~ 2.5 feet (I always make my rigs up ‘too long’ at home, as one can always shorten them to the required length on the bank). If it is windy the rigs are fished up to 6 inches over-depth in order to hold them still – 2 inches over-depth is a good starting point for carp, as they generally won’t hit a bait that’s dragging across the bottom. Pan fish, on the other hand, like a bait suspended just off bottom. Jigging the bait often works well for both carp and pan fish, as it mimics the ‘wafting effect’ initiated by fish feeding.

After I have my rigs assembled and tested, the groundbait is normally ready to go. I introduce between 3 and 5 balls and a sprinkling of corn via the cupping kit just over the shelf, spreading the bait over an area about the size of a small coffee table. Once this is done the waiting game commences – it typically takes between 15 and 90 minutes for the carp to find the bait, although the gills usually find it right away. Thus, fishing the PB 19 or ‘Quad’ rig with spikes works well initially, but when the carp arrive fishing double corn on a size 14 B611 is the way to go, although a size Kamasan 12 animal.is.better.if the fish start to come thick and fast (it’s a very strong hook).


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Typically, competitive bank anglers generally fish the whip for the first hour or two of a match (it’s quicker than the long pole for ‘gills) before having a look on the pole line for carp. Given that a good 4 hour ‘gill only’ match weight typically comes in at around 14 - 20 pounds, and that carp average 5 pounds a piece, whoever catches one or more bonus carp usually wins the match.


Leger/Swimfeeder Fishing

Sinker and/or swimfeeder fishing is often considered a ‘last resort’ by the competitive bank angler, and is most often only employed when fishing either a very deep venue, when the fish are feeding beyond waggler or pole range, or when fishing in high wind. In each of these situations pole or float rod based tactics would be rendered impractical. Having said that, the swimfeeder, particularly the method ‘feeder, can be a deadly method for bottom feeders such as cats or carp. In fact, ‘big’ carp anglers fish almost exclusively with sinkers or feeders.

I generally adopt one of two strategies when fishing the ‘feeder: First, in early season competitions, when the ‘gills have not yet moved on to the marginal beds, they are only catchable at range. If it is windy (rendering the long pole or waggler ineffective) I use my Drennan swimfeeder (quiver tip) rod to fish a small groundbait or cage feeder with a 2.5 ft hook length to a size 18 or 16 Kamasan B611 hook. On shallow water a Drennan cage type feeder is preferred, while on deeper venues a.more. traditional.Drennan groundbait feeder is better. The rig, aside from the use of a ‘feeder in place of a sinker is, in almost all respects, identical to a catfisher’s sinker rig. The reel line I prefer is 6 pound test Fireline (the zero stretch characteristic of this line allows for better bite detection at range), while the hook link is usually 2 – 3 pound test mono. As with the other methods discussed, the feeder is effective because it consistently introduces groundbait (and hook bait) to the same small area. Similar tricks to those employed when waggler fishing are used with regard to fishing

The long pole in action — attached to the other end is a 10.5 pound carp!

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the same distance and direction, although it is not necessary (or recommended!) to reel in several turns so sink the line. Groundbait feeder fishing for pan fish, when done correctly, is similar in some respects to whip fishing – a rhythmic procedure of baiting, filling the feeder, casting out to the clip, tightening up then waiting for a bite is the goal. Bites are normally experienced from small fish soon after the feeder touches down (the hook bait is slowly sinking through the ‘strike zone’ towards the bottom at this time). The quiver tip pulling sharply around indicates a bite. Quiver tips are available in several test curves, with a 1.5 - 2 oz TC models best for fishing lakes, with 4 oz versions better for countering the flow on rivers. Feeder rods are typically supplied with several interchangeable tips. In each case the rod is set at an angle as close to 90 degrees as possible relative to the rig, so to maximize bite movement at the tip. On lakes the rod is kept low and almost parallel to the bank, while on river it is pointed almost straight up in the air (so to keep as much line off the water as possible). The second type of ‘feeder fishing I do is with a method swimfeeder. I basically fish a method feeder with a carp rod during matches (that allow 2 rods to be used) for carp and/or cats. The rod basically fishes itself, especially when used in conjunction with a bait runner type reel.and.an.electronic bite alarm. Both of these are specialist carp items and can be viewed at the Wacker baits site. Method feeder fishing is quite simple – I have a couple of quick casts over the area I want to fish with a large, loaded cage feeder in order to get some groundbait ‘on the deck’. I then fish over this with the method feeder. The method feeder differs from regular feeders in that it is basically a frame type device around which a very firm ball of groundbait is molded. The angler’s bait is fished on a very short (3”) trace and often placed inside the method ball. Large species like carp actively ‘attack’ the ball of bait and typically hook themselves against the weight of the feeder after picking up the angler’s hook bait. The result is an unmissable bite (the angler typically just picks up the rod as the fish is already hooked). Fishing a pair of method feeders allowed me to win the 3V carp tournament in 2003!

Sundry Items

Other items important to own include a rod holdall, a carryall, a tackle cart.and.an.angling umbrella. The luggage items are available through Fox, who make some of the best. I personally use a Fox ‘Elite’ match holdall for transporting my rods, pole, umbrella, landing net handle and assorted bank sticks. I also own a Leda carryall, in which I keep my groundbait, hook bait nets and rod rest heads. For those interested in purchasing some dedicated bank fishing equipment the following resources section lists a number of reputable supplies I personally use. The JJC Anglers also carry a limited selection of gear, which may be viewed at the JJCAC section of bankfisher.com.

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Bank Fishing Clubs and Organizations

Bankfisher.com (www.bankfisher.com): The parent site of this book! Home to Pat’s Patch (educational) and the JJC Anglers Club sites. Many resources, including new articles, underwater studies, calendar of events and a user forum.

Chicago Bank Anglers (www.fishcba.com): The CBA organizes competitive bankfishing events throughout the Chicagoland area. This site has an active forum for those interested in match fishing.

Midwest Angler’s Club (www.midwestangler.com): MAC also organizes competitive bankfishing events throughout the Chicagoland area, but aimed more at the beginner / novice angler.

Indiana Bank Anglers (www.inbankanglers.com):The IBA organizes a variety competitive and social bankfishing events in and around the Elkhart, IN area. A great bunch of folks!

Carp anglers Group (www.carpanglersgroup.com): A superb website for those interested in carp fishing. Includes a nice forum.

American Carp Society (www.americancarpsociety.com): Another great website for those interested in carp fishing. This site also includes a very nice e-store and forum.

Educational / Informational Sites

Roughfish.com (www.visi.com/~dunwitch): One of the author’s favorite sites! These guys love to catch fish, any kind of fish!

Chicago Paddling and Fishing (http://pages.ripco.net/~jwn/fishclub.html): A great resource when planning your next trip – fishery information ranges from stocking data through to depth charts. Also contains an extensive list of fishing and outdoor related websites.

Illinois DNR (http://dnr.state.il.us): You can buy your IL fishing license online here, plus check out a good number of other items of interest to Illinois anglers.

I Fish Illinois (www.ifishillinois.org): A great source for anglers fishing in Illinois! Places to fish, fishing programs and fish science are just a few of the many topics covered.

Coarse Fishing (www.coarsefish.net): A great Australian site aimed at anglers interested in catching coarse (rough) fish. Lots of good educational content.

Jeffish (www.jeffish.co.uk): A really nice UK site dedicated to underwater videography. Definitely some of the best underwater clips on the web!

AquaVu (www.naturevisioninc.com): The folks at AquaVu have a very nice underwater video gallery, well worth a look.

Web Resources

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Bank Angling Stores and Equipment Suppliers

Wacker Baits (www.wackerbaits.com): The domestic (US) store for everything bank/carp fishing! For anglers not comfortable with ordering more specialized items from overseas, ‘Whackers’ likely has something to fit the bill.

John DiMartino Custom Rods (www.customfishingtackle.com): A steelhead store out of upstate NY that stocks good amounts of bank fishing basics – hooks, shot, floats and rods etc.

NISID (http://nisid.com): Canadian site with a good range of bank fishing equipment

Benwick Sports (www.benwick-sports.co.uk): The author’s favorite on-line store (based in the UK). Benwicks has an immense inventory, great prices and a prompt mail order service. For those must-have / hard to find items this is the place!

Goodtackle (www.buygoodtackle.com): Another great UK based internet store. Less of a selection that Benwicks, but slightly cheaper prices and great customer service

Vados Bait (www.vadosbait.com): Supplier of essential / hard to find bankfishing baits, such as spikes (maggots).

Web Resources

Joli

et Junior College Anglers Club

www.Bankfisher.com

bank fishing 101 -

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