bangkok - lonely planet · 2016. 7. 23. · dise or an afternoon cuppa at the erawan tea room....
TRANSCRIPT
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Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Bangkok
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Austin Bush
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Contents
Welcome to Bangkok ......4
Bangkok’s Top 10 ............6
What’s New ....................13
Need to Know ................14
First Time Bangkok .......16
Top Itineraries ...............18
If You Like… ................... 20
Month by Month ........... 22
With Kids ....................... 24
Eating ...........................26
Drinking & Nightlife... 35LGBT Bangkok .......................39Entertainment ............ 41Shopping ......................45Sports & Activities ....50
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Bangkok 205
Survival Guide 235
Bangkok Maps 263
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Bangkok 54
Transport ........................236
Directory A–Z ...................241
Language ..........................248
Index .................................. 255
Bangkok Today ...........206
History .........................208
People & Culture .........218
Eating in Thailand ....... 225
The Sex Industry in Thailand .......................231
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ............................56
Ko Ratanakosin & Thonburi ........................ 58
Banglamphu ................. 78
Thewet & Dusit ..............91
Chinatown ..................... 99
Siam Square, Pratunam, Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi ................ 108
Riverside, Silom & Lumphini ......................125
Sukhumvit ....................142
Greater Bangkok .........156
Excursions from Bangkok ......................167
Sleeping ..................... 187
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Chinatown
Sukhumvit
Riverside,Silom & Lumphini
GreaterBangkok
Thewet& Dusit
Banglamphu
Ko Ratanakosin& Thonburi
Siam Square,Pratunam,
Phloen Chit &Ratchathewi
p156
p108
p91
p78
p58p99
p125
p142
(left) Golden Mount p83 Enjoy panoramic views from the peak.
(above) Mae Nam Chao Phraya p10 Go sight-seeing by boat.
(right) Sky Bar p136 Drink in the view – and the cocktails, too!
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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Top ItinerariesDay OneKo Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p58)
M Get up as early as you can and take the Chao Phraya Express Boat north to Chang Pier to explore one of Ko Ratana-kosin’s museums such as the Museum of Siam, as well as one of its must-see temples, like Wat Pho.
Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p125)
R Refresh with a spa treatment at Health Land or soothe those over-worked legs with a traditional Thai massage at Ruen-Nuad Massage Studio. After freshening up, get a new perspective on Bangkok with rooftop cocktails at Moon Bar.
Riverside, Silom & Lumphini (p125)
N If you’ve still got it in you, get danc-ing at Tapas Room, or head over to Telephone Pub or any of the other bars in Bangkok’s lively gaybourhood. For a night that doesn’t end until the sun comes up, bang on the door at Wong’s Place.
Day TwoSiam Square, Pratunam, Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi (p108)
M Take the BTS (Skytrain) to National Stadium and start your day with a visit to the popular and worthwhile museum that is Jim Thompson House. Follow this by exploring nearby Baan Khrua or by making a wish at the Erawan Shrine.
Siam Square, Pratunam, Phloen Chit & Ratchathewi (p108)
R Walk, or let the BTS escort you, through Bangkok’s ultramodern commercial district, stopping off at linked shopping centres including MBK Center, Siam Paragon and Siam Square. Make time for a sweet snack at Gourmet Para-dise or an afternoon cuppa at the Erawan Tea Room.
Greater Bangkok (p156)
N If it’s Tuesday, Friday or Saturday, consider catching a Thai-boxing match at Lumpinee Boxing Stadium, or make a point of schlepping over to eastern Bangkok’s RCA/Royal City Ave to check out fun clubs such as Route 66 or Onyx.
Dinner nahm (p135) serves arguably the best Thai food in Bangkok.
Lunch Plunge into Bangkok-style street food at Pa Aew (p75).
Dinner Try Thai food with a modern twist at Sra Bua (p115).
Lunch The MBK Food Island (p115) is an ideal introduction to Thai food.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd18
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Day ThreeKo Ratanakosin & Thonburi (p58)
M Take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Chang Pier and set off on a long-tail boat tour of Thonburi’s canals. Alter-natively, combine canals and the culinary arts with a visit to Amita Thai Cooking Class.
Banglamphu (p78)
R Spend the afternoon shopping at the Th Khao San Market and visiting the surrounding sights such as the Golden Mount and Wat Suthat. Or, if you’ve got energy to spare, book an afternoon or night bike tour of the area
with Velo Thailand or Grasshopper Adventures.
Sukhumvit (p142)
N End the night with a Thai-themed cocktail at a cosy local such as WTF or Badmotel, or a streetside Singha at Cheap Charlie’s. If it’s still too early for you to turn in, extend the night with a visit to clubs Grease or Arena 10.
Day FourGreater Bangkok (p156)
M If it’s a weekend, take the BTS north for a half-day of shopping at the Chatuchak Weekend Market. Otherwise, consider a half-day excursion outside the city to the provincial-feeling Nonthaburi Market, the artificial island of Ko Kret or the recreated ruins at Ancient City.
Chinatown (p99)
R Recover from the market in the relative cool of the late afternoon before taking the MRT (metro) to China-town to visit the home of the Golden Bud-dha, Wat Traimit, and the Chinese-style Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. Consider popping over to Phahurat to sample that neighbourhood’s South Asian feel, or if
you’re there after dark, the flower market at Pak Khlong Talat.
Banglamphu (p78)
N Make the brief taxi ride to Banglamphu and begin the evening with drinks at Madame Musur, followed by a rowdy live-music show at Brick Bar or dancing at The Club. If bedtime is ir-relevant, head for the shishas (water pipes) and dance floor of The Bank.
Dinner Take a temporary break from Thai food at Nasir Al-Masri (p147).
Lunch Take advantage of the air-con and spicy eats at Err (p75).
Dinner Follow our walking tour (p104) of Chinatown’s best street eats.
Lunch Chatuchak Weekend Market (p158) has cheap and tasty food stalls.
Democracy Monument (p81)
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
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Sleeping
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Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Bangkok Maps
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RIKO RATANAKOSIN & THONBURI Map on p265 æ Top Sights (p60) û Drinking & Nightlife (p77) 1 Wat Arun ......................................................B6 Amorosa ............................................ (see 27) 2 Wat Pho........................................................D5 Roof.................................................... (see 33) 3 Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace................C5 ý Entertainment (p77) æ Sights (p70) 22 National Theatre......................................... C2 4 Amulet Market ............................................B3
5 Lak Meuang .................................................D4 Ø Sports & Activities (p77) 6 Museum of Siam.........................................D6 23 Center Meditation Wat 7 National Gallery...........................................D2 Mahadhatu ...............................................C3 8 National Museum........................................C2 24 Chetawan Traditional Massage 9 Royal Barges National Museum ............... A1 School .......................................................C6 10 Sanam Luang ..............................................C3 25 Massage Pavilions...................................... D5 11 Saranrom Royal Garden ............................D5 Muay Thai Lab................................... (see 20) 12 Silpakorn University ...................................C4 National Museum Tours.....................(see 8) 13 Silpakorn University Art Centre................C4
14 Siriraj Medical Museum .............................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p190) 15 Thammasat University...............................C3 26 Arom D Hostel ............................................C6 27 Arun Residence ..........................................C6 ú Eating (p75) 28 Aurum: The River Place.............................C6 16 Err .................................................................C6 29 Chakrabongse Villas ..................................C6 17 Khunkung.....................................................B4 30 Ibrik Resort..................................................B4 18 Ming Lee.......................................................C4 31 Inn A Day .....................................................C6 19 Pa Aew..........................................................C6 32 Royal Tha Tien Village................................C6 Sala Rattanakosin Eatery & 33 Sala Ratanakosin........................................C6 Bar ...................................................(see 33)
20 Savoey..........................................................B3 ï Information (p45) 21 Wang Lang Market......................................B3 Office of the National Museum.............................................(see 8)
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BANGLAMPHU Map on p268 æ Top Sights (p80) 45 The Bank......................................................C3 1 Golden Mount............................................. H6 46 The Club.......................................................C3 2 Wat Saket.................................................... H6
3 Wat Suthat................................................... E7 ý Entertainment (p89) 47 Ad Here the 13th..........................................D1 æ Sights (p80) 48 Barlamphu...................................................C3 4 Ban Baat.......................................................G7 Brick Bar............................................ (see 67) 5 Democracy Monument..............................E4 49 Brown Sugar ............................................... F4 6 Dhevasathan ...............................................E6 50 jazz happens!.............................................. B2 7 Khaosan Museum.......................................D3 51 Molly Bar......................................................D3 8 King Prajadhipok Museum ........................H5 52 Suk Sabai.....................................................C3 9 Mahakan Fort ..............................................G5
10 October 14 Memorial..................................D4 þ Shopping (p89) 11 Phra Sumen Fort & Santi Chai 53 Heritage Craft ............................................. C7 Prakan Park .............................................. C1 Lofty Bamboo ................................... (see 67) 12 Queen's Gallery...........................................G5 54 Nittaya Thai Curry...................................... C3 13 Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art 55 Taekee Taekon ............................................C1 Center........................................................ F5 56 Thai Nakon ...................................................F2 14 Sao Ching-Cha ............................................ E7 57 Thanon Khao San Market..........................C3 15 Th Bamrung Meuang Religious
Shops......................................................... F7 Ø Sports & Activities (p90) 16 Vishnu Shrine.............................................. E7 58 Baan Chao Yoga ..........................................B1 17 Wat Bowonniwet.........................................E3 59 Bangkok Bold Cooking Studio.................. F4 18 Wat Ratchanatdaram.................................G5 60 Grasshopper Adventures..........................D4 61 Sor Vorapin Gym ........................................ B3 ú Eating (p84) 62 Velo Thailand ...............................................E1 19 Ann's Sweet................................................. C1
20 Arawy Vegetarian Food..............................E5 ÿ Sleeping (p190) 21 Chote Chitr ..................................................D7 63 Baan Dinso .................................................. E5 22 Escapade Burgers & Shakes.....................B2 64 Baan Dinso @ Ratchadamnoen................ E5 23 Hemlock.......................................................B2 65 Baan Noppawong....................................... E5 24 Jay Fai.......................................................... G6 66 Bhuthorn...................................................... D7 25 Khun Daeng .................................................B2 67 Buddy Boutique Hotel ...............................D4 26 Kimleng ........................................................D4 68 Chern ............................................................F7 27 Krua Apsorn.................................................E5 69 Diamond House..........................................D2 28 May Kaidee's ............................................... D1 70 Fortville Guesthouse...................................C1 29 Nuttaporn ....................................................D7 71 Hotel Dé Moc...............................................G2 30 Poj Spa Kar ..................................................D7 72 Khaosan Immjai...........................................D1 31 Pua-Kee........................................................ C1 73 Lamphu Treehouse.....................................F3 32 Ranee's Velo Restaurant ...........................C3 74 NapPark Hostel...........................................D3 33 Roti-Mataba................................................. C1 75 New Siam Riverside ................................... A2 34 Shoshana .....................................................C3 76 Old Capital Bike Inn....................................G4 35 Snack Bar..................................................... D1 77 Pannee Residence...................................... F4 36 Somsong Phochana ................................... C1 78 Praya Palazzo ..............................................A1 37 Soy................................................................B2 79 Rajata Hotel..................................................E1 38 Thip Samai.................................................. G6 80 Rambuttri Village Inn................................. C2 81 Rikka Inn ......................................................D4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p87) 82 Riva Surya ................................................... B2 39 Center Khao Sarn .......................................C3 83 Royal Hotel..................................................C4 40 Commé.........................................................B2 84 Sourire .........................................................G4 41 Hippie de Bar...............................................C3 85 Suneta Hostel Khaosan.............................D3 Jham Jun............................................(see 70) 86 The Warehouse........................................... D5 42 Madame Musur...........................................B2 87 Villa Cha-Cha ..............................................D3 43 Phra Nakorn Bar & Gallery ........................D4 88 Villa Phra Sumen.........................................F3 44 Rolling Bar....................................................F3 89 Wild Orchid Villa ......................................... B2
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4 Ancient Cloth Museum ..............................C2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p98) 5 Chitlada Palace ...........................................D2 20 Post Bar ....................................................... A3 6 Dusit Zoo......................................................C3
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8 Rama V Memorial .......................................C3 ÿ Sleeping (p194) 9 Royal Thai Elephant Museum ...................C2 22 Baan Manusarn .......................................... A3 10 Vimanmek Teak Mansion ..........................C2 23 Casa Nithra ................................................. A3 11 Wat Benchamabophit ................................C3 24 Hi Baan Thewet........................................... B3 25 Loog Choob Homestay..............................C4 ú Eating (p97) 26 Penpark Place............................................. A3 12 In Love..........................................................A2 27 Phra-Nakorn Norn-Len..............................B3 13 Kaloang Home Kitchen ..............................A2 28 Sam Sen Sam Place................................... A3 14 Khinlom Chom Sa-Phan ............................A3 29 SSIP Boutique............................................. B3 15 Krua Apsorn.................................................B2 30 The Siam.......................................................B1
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273
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SIAM
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ITSIAM SQUARE, PRATUNAM & PHLOEN CHIT Map on p274 æ Top Sights (p110) 30 Playhouse Theater Cabaret.......................B1 1 Jim Thompson House................................A2 31 Rock Pub ......................................................B1 32 Scala............................................................. B3 æ Sights (p111)
2 100 Tonson Gallery.................................... G6 þ Shopping (p120) 3 Aood Bankrua Thai Silk..............................A2 33 Baiyoke Garment Center............................E1 4 Baan Khrua..................................................A2 34 Central Chidlom..........................................G4 5 Bangkok Art & Culture Centre..................B3 35 CentralWorld............................................... E3 6 Erawan Shrine.............................................E4 Doi Tung ............................................ (see 44) 7 Jamjuree Art Gallery ..................................A5 Flynow III............................................ (see 43) 8 Jim Thompson Art Center.........................A2 36 Gin & Milk..................................................... B3 9 Lingam Shrine .............................................G2 It's Happened To Be A Closet......... (see 45) 10 Madame Tussauds .....................................B3 37 Marco Tailor................................................C4 11 Phamai Baan Krua......................................A2 38 MBK Center................................................. B3 12 Siam Ocean World......................................C3 39 Narai Phand ................................................ E3 40 Pantip Plaza .................................................D1 ú Eating (p114) 41 Pinky Tailors................................................H4 13 Coca Suki.....................................................C4 42 Platinum Fashion Mall ............................... E2 Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Propaganda....................................... (see 44) Bao................................................... (see 18) 43 Siam Center ................................................C3 Din Tai Fung.......................................(see 35) 44 Siam Discovery........................................... B3 14 Eathai........................................................... G4 45 Siam Paragon .............................................C3 Erawan Tea Room............................. (see 18) 46 Siam Square................................................C3 Food Loft............................................(see 34) Tango ................................................. (see 43) 15 Food Plus .....................................................C3 Thann ................................................. (see 35) Food Republic ...................................(see 43) 47 The Selected ............................................... B3 16 FoodPark......................................................E3 Viera by Ragazze.............................. (see 35) 17 Gaggan .........................................................F6
18 Ginza Sushi-Ichi ..........................................E4 Ø Sports & Activities (p124) Gourmet Paradise ............................(see 45) AAA..................................................... (see 52) 19 Koko..............................................................C3 48 Absolute Yoga............................................. F4 20 La Monita .................................................... H4 Issaya Cooking Studio......................(see 14) 21 MBK Food Island.........................................B4 KidZania............................................. (see 45) Nuer Koo ............................................(see 45) 49 Pilates Studio..............................................H4 22 Sanguan Sri ................................................ H4 SF Strike Bowl.................................... (see 21) 23 Somtam .......................................................C4 50 Spa 1930......................................................G5 24 Sra Bua.........................................................C2 Thann Sanctuary.............................. (see 35) Water Library Brasserie................... (see 14) 51 Union Language School..............................B1 52 Yoga Elements Studio ................................F3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p117)
25 Co-Co Walk.................................................. B1 ÿ Sleeping (p195) 26 Foreign Correspondents' Club of 53 Conrad Hotel Bangkok ..............................G6 Thailand ....................................................F4 54 Hansar.......................................................... E5 27 Hyde & Seek ............................................... H4 55 Hotel Indigo.................................................G5 28 Mixx ..............................................................E4 56 Hotel Muse ...................................................F5 Red Sky ..............................................(see 35) 57 Lit Bangkok Hotel & Residence................ B2 Roof ....................................................(see 60) 58 Lub*d ........................................................... A3 59 Okura Prestige............................................H4 ý Entertainment (p117) 60 Siam@Siam................................................. A3 Diplomat Bar .....................................(see 53) 61 Vista Residence.......................................... A3 29 Lido ...............................................................C3 62 Wendy House.............................................. B2 Paragon Cineplex..............................(see 45)
276
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280
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RIVERSIDE æ Top Sights (p127) þ Shopping (p139) 1 Bangkokian Museum..................................D2 11 Chiang Heng................................................C6 12 River City ......................................................B1 æ Sights (p127) 13 Thai Home Industries ................................C4 2 Assumption Cathedral...............................C4
3 Old Customs House ...................................B3 Ø Sports & Activities (p141) 4 Sathorn Unique Tower...............................C7 14 Chao Phraya Princess ................................B1 15 Chaophraya Cruise .....................................B1 ú Eating (p130) Co van Kessel Bangkok Tours.........(see 12) 5 Boonsap Thai Desserts..............................C6 16 Grand Pearl ..................................................B1 6 Indian Hut ....................................................D3 Oriental Hotel Thai Cooking Le Normandie....................................(see 20) School .............................................. (see 17) Lord Jim's ..........................................(see 20) 17 Oriental Spa ................................................ A4 7 Muslim Restaurant .....................................C5 18 Wan Fah....................................................... B2 8 Never Ending Summer...............................A2 19 White Orchid ................................................B1
û Drinking & Nightlife (p135) ÿ Sleeping (p198) 9 Sky Bar .........................................................D5 20 Mandarin Oriental ...................................... B4 Viva & Aviv ..........................................(see 12) 21 Millennium Hilton ....................................... A2 22 Peninsula Hotel........................................... A4 ý Entertainment (p137) 23 Shangri-La Hotel ........................................ B5 Bamboo Bar.......................................(see 20) 24 Swan Hotel ..................................................C4 Sala Rim Naam...................................(see 17)
10 Three Sixty...................................................A2
RIVERSIDE281
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