bait selection 1/2000 by: richard ziert · select the most effective kinds/characteristics of...

Bait Selection 1/2000 - By: Richard Ziert

Introduction What you are about to read amounts to a fishing seminar that will:

1. Select the most effective kinds/characteristics of baits. 2. Show the better presentations for those baits. (23 pages)

3. Suggest places in your lake where and when those baits would be best

utilized. . . Situational Analysis.

To begin, we first have to set some ground rules. Please read these pages carefully. Please don’t look at this material as an absolute. Take this course in moderation with that which applies for you at this time on your road to something better. Once we finish the course we will have a heightened responsibility to ourselves, to the love of our fishing sport, and to use this information wisely. Topics: Segment 1.

Definition of Water and its many qualities.

Light Penetration and its effect on water. Segments 1. and 2.

Cross referenced charts depicting the intent of this seminar. Segment 3.

Situational Analysis as it applies to specific structure and/or cover - with illustration.

Conclusion. There can be no exact outcome for this seminar except to possibly bring us closer to the answers we seek. The work is up to you and your observation. Once we get there, many of the following charts are intended to be leaning posts in nature. While you may not exactly agree with an indication shown in those charts, the proposal shown should be considered the most consistent from a high percentage point of view. We are not concerned with reaction bites. These are the bites that occur as a knee-jerk/fin-jerk reaction to a fast moving nearby bait of any kind. We want something more. To set the stage properly we need to understand the environment in which fish live. In doing so we become better fishermen. You will see that we need to focus on several conditional issues at the same time. The Color of Water

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Our subject here is on the color of water. As simple as that may sound, you may be surprised at the underlying factors. Just remember color plus light equal visual perception. Before we begin, a word of caution may be in order. Please do not confuse human vision with that of fish. Fish have some differences from humans that set them apart. Keep in mind that no one has yet indexed all fish along with all their visual potential. This state of affairs is keyed with the primal function of, and appearance of color as contrast as is relates to contrasting water and aquatic flora/fauna colors. Scientist’s have long determined however that for example, the Large Mouth Bass contrast vision is approximately 5 times greater than what a human sees as contrast. Walleyes on the other hand, have even greater capabilities. This kind of vision is not binocular vision, and it is not necessarily color difference. It is however the ability to extract greater detail from an otherwise clear or even clouded theater of viewing. The effect of water-color is based on its interactions with light. The interactions fishermen should be concerned with are Pulse, Rotation, Refraction, Reflection, Diffusion, and Delay. Each of these relationships can make a difference in watercolor, aquatic flora, and fauna color and bait color when viewed from a specific time day or night and background or setting beneath the surface. Again, think of the word “color” in terms of contrast - “shades of gray” - as a primary function of what fish possibly see and then the actual color conversion for more precise reference in choosing baits. Pure water is basically light blue in color. The more water that is looked through in volume, the bluer it appears. When particles are present in water, incoming light will be dispersed sooner than if there were none. The reason for this is that light is being absorbed by, and bounced off of those particles only to hit more particles - repeating the process. The more interfering particles in the water, the more light is scattered/dispersed sooner, and the less fish can distinguish contrast from like distances. The color of the particles in the water can blend with the color of water itself to form a different color. For example, Live algae in the water will change the water to green, but that green, as viewed, will be lighter than the actual algae itself due to mixing perceptually with the light blue water. Dust/dirt, dead algae in the water will change the watercolor to brown, Treebark Tannin will change the color to a golden, maybe deep rust orange - red, or other colors in some cases, and so on.

Perception of objects, change from moment to moment, and from water part to water part, chop, or through rotations of light - time of day, and the density of interference - in the water and in the above water atmosphere - clouds, humidity, other light blocking objects, and such. Light vibrates in the air and in the materials, which it bounces off of, or passes through. Since water is more dense than air, the wavelengths of light are slowed when entering water. Since cold water is more dense than warm water we have even slower vibrations in that medium. Cold water can occur seasonally and dimensionally within a body of water. Therefore, in and of itself, cold water will display the color blue more at shallower depths than it will at greater depths. Cold water and /or water of the early part of the fishing season can be more clear than later on in the year. This same cold water is again more dense than warmer water and can hold particles in suspension longer causing that early cold water to appear cloudy. Algae and Plankton remain stunted in cold water due in part to inadequate sunlight and the additional density of cold water. Water that is cleansed by the motion or flow of that water, and/or is not interrupted by outside influx of other materials, or quality of water; rivers, or river oriented lakes, and controlled release reservoirs for example, will maintain a more constant year round appearance. Warmer water will appear less blue due to the Dog Days of Summer because hot days/warm water situations eat up more oxygen in the atmosphere and it can not be conducted to the water at the same rate as in cooler weather. Then, plankton and algae blooms come into play in warmer months, which will again change the color of water. If you need to, please read the forgoing topic “The Color of Water” over again. In so doing, you will see a cycle of interdependent and dynamic features we need to consider. Remember how many times you’ve heard or read: Dark days use dark baits, and bright days use light baits. We know now that old fisherman’s tale is true because of our review. Overcast days and clear nights produce more of the darker blue green effect of the lower spectra of light. Beyond blue to violet there is no visible color; there is only black. Bright sunlit days or reflected or ambient light under water produce more of the red or upper spectra of light. As a matter of note, Black and White are not colors. They are simply not within the spectrum of visible light. Keep in mind however, there are times when the “old fisherman’s tale” should be reversed. Color Wheel

Using the Color Wheel provided , what color(s) would you use to completely contrast, or what would be the complete opposite of the following common colors of water : Blue - Is completely contrasted by yellow and/orange Green - Is completely contrasted by red Brown - This one is tricky. The color brown comes about by mixing all the colors of the color wheel together. In so doing all the colors of the color wheel contrast with brown. But the very darkest colors, and the very brightest will completely contrast brown. Considering your bait color choices, under what conditions - time of year, water clarity, water temp, time of day or night, prevailing cover/structure, wind direction and speed:

• Would you shift from complete contrast to something to the right or left of complete contrast?

• Would you use more than one or two color contrasts? - And why?

Please remember the colors/contrasts of the foreground as it is blended with your bait and the background to your bait - open water - in the weeds - over a rock pile - on the bottom - camouflage, and so on.

• At what depth would you present your bait choice?

• What would it take to camouflage a bait under various conditions?

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• Finally, what speed and or action would you place on your bait in your

retrieve? Obviously, you don’t have to answer these questions publicly, but just chew on them a while based on your newfound knowledge. Suffice it to say that there are many more factors to bait selection. Color/Contrast is but one of those dynamics. You might want to take the time to review my previous work on “Patterning Active Fish” for a sampling of these “factors”. I want to make one flat out statement at this time in order that you not forget it throughout the rest of what follows here. Fish camouflage themselves in body coloration and in mixing with whatever there might be “down there” if they can. They do this as predators to catch prey. They do this as prey in order not to be eaten. Movement destroys the benefit of camouflage. Total camouflage and total stillness are not ‘exactly’ what we are after in bait selection at all times; Under some circumstances quite the reverse is true. Shad and other schools of fish have a different form of camouflage . Fish School Smartz

Depth Finder and formal fishery observations have been such to see various groups of fish closer together at times, and further apart at other times. After the research, the bottom line is, whether or not fish are feeding, or not threatened (more spread out), or being fed upon/threatened (more bunched up). For example, look at the

newly hatched fry as opposed to subsequent growth of those fish. All fry are schooling because they are prey. More importantly, they school for the benefit of school intelligence. As fish grow larger and larger they become more and more exclusive predators; no longer needing the protection - the coordinated intelligence of the school. Some fish, of course, never get beyond the tighter knit stage.

Schooling is important to survival for underlings and to the unknowing; the unprepared. When predators are close, bait fish swim tighter; each fish nips at the fins of the other fish of the school, trying to get closer to the relevant safety of middle of the bunch. This “nipping”, and the attitude of the more aggressive, more stimulated fish of the school, have an effect on the physical compass and depth direction of the school as a whole. Even when not threatened the collective of school intelligence expresses stability, feeding, and reproduction direction. The simple, seemingly unknowing, action of the individual fish governs the behavior of the group. What the schooling fish don't know is that larger predators will rip through the heart of the school as well as on the periphery.

Every action has a reaction, no matter the size of the prey. Particularly large schools of fish may even have no knowledge of what is happening at the other ends of the pack. We will often observe unthreatened fish on one end of the school acting entirely different than those closer to the predator whereabouts. We can see this on our depth finders, and is illustrated there by the spacing of the fish within the school, the hard packed, rather than granular shades of grey or colors of a depth finder color unit (if we have one), and the fleeing direction of the “big picture” presented to us.

For fisherman, precision bait presentation becomes obvious. Little good will soon come from presenting our lure perfectly but in a wrong part of the action. If we unknowingly think the predators are not in a positive mood and not biting, we are both right and wrong. We may be right in the big picture, but wrong in the details. Just as fishing non productive water – unproductive parts of a lake - is unheard of for those in the know, so too is fishing fruitless parts of the school microcosm.

As fish grow larger, and the threat of predation becomes less and less, fish "aggregate" or “pod” movement is further spaced; there are fewer fish in the aggregate. Eventually, the biggest – more dominant (the alpha predator) swims alone except for maybe the spawn; even then the largest get the early first pick, preferential treatment by the other fish in the area. Through most calendar periods, singularly large fish will not likely be associated with any others.

What this can tell us is that when bait is tight together (depth finder observation), predators are close by (even if we don’t see them). It also can tell us that if we see the predators as well, and there are not that many of them, those predators will be larger specimens.

As referred to earlier, we need to remember that growing fish also school., and again, some well known fishery people refer to grouping of older fish as “aggregates” , or “pods” , etc., rather than schools; and they are right. However, this observation simply means that without the threat of predation, fish are less likely to ball up. Predation however, can take the form of one or more fish of an “aggregate” being caught by fishermen. In this case “fishermen” means you or anybody else on the lake fishing the same fishery collectively. Ages old studies have shown when fish, including walleyes, bass, etc., are threatened from, or caught by predators including man, they release chemicals that telegraph the fear message to the other fish of the group; something to consider when parked on a spot trying to catch more than a few, when suddenly the bite comes to a screeching halt. Water Clarity Definition For the purpose of this seminar we need a universal definition or “what means what” as we go through this material. That definition, along with a few other parameters, characteristics, elements ,will go a long way to better bait selection for specific conditions faced by any angler. Under any light condition:

If we can see down into the water 15 feet or more let’s define that kind of water clarity as Crystal Clear Water.

If we can see down into the water only 10 feet, then that water clarity

will be classified as Clear Water.

If we can see only 5 feet into the water that will be Stained Water.

If we can see only 3 feet down then that water clarity is classified as Heavily Stained Water.

Any water where we can’t see our bait after about a foot or less of

entering the water, that water will be called Muddy Water. Note: I’ve highlighted the phrase “Under any light condition” in the above definition. I’ve done this because it is important to the time of day or night your bait hit’s the water, and/or the deeper darker water you may run your bait through

at that time and depth it is there. Depending on the time of day or night, the kind of cloud cover, chop on the surface of the water, depth, etc., the example of “Crystal Clear Water” can be effectively, turned into - be the same as - another one of the sub definitions of water clarity. Light Penetration When we are sitting or standing in our boat and we drop a light colored sinking bait over the side into the water, the point in the water column where that bait disappears from view is the point where the human eye perceives that there is no more light to see the bait. Light “reflection” however tells us that the actual light penetration is deeper than we perceive because we are only seeing a reflection of light at this point. We need to not only count the feet down the line to the point where the bait is no longer visible to us, but we then have to double that count for the trip back up the line light has to make to reach our eye. There’s something else we have to consider here. Light is not “there“, or in existence for us alone. The underwater environment “sees” it differently, and most likely light will penetrate somewhat deeper than we perceive even with the doubling process. Some light can go deeper than we can imagine and fish can see beyond what we see. Also remember there are various shore and bottom features that create shadow as well. Where shadow is concerned we may have to make still greater adjustments in perception relative to the following illustration. The following illustration of a “Crystal Clear” lake symbolizes the effect of light penetration on/into the water column. Not wanting to recreate the wheel - so to speak, this illustration was taken from my other article “Patterning Active Fish”, also in this web site.

For the purposes of this seminar and the mentioned illustration all fish are affected similarly. If we were fishing a lake that appeared to us to be either “clear“, “slightly stained“, “heavily stained“, or “muddy” at the surface, the layers of water shown above need to be perceptually adjusted accordingly with the lower layers of water shown here moved up one or more steps to allow for the change in atmospheric and water conditions. The fact that fish can see well to various distances under water does not mean they will chase or take bait. Likewise it doesn’t mean they will be found at those depths were the best visibility occurs. (Finding fish is another subject not covered here - you may want to refer to my soon to be released article on “Edges & Ledges” for further information.) The reference to how far or how well fish see is only here to fix that intentionally vague concept in our minds before we go on to the other components of “Bait Selection”. Now, lets go to the initial charts. These charts are not intended to pick up on everyone’s favorite bait - but, they will get us started in the right direction. Fine tuning, and fine tuning over time, is up to you. There are 5 (five) of 6 (six) charts here in segment #1. The idea is to match a situation/condition you are interested in for your time on the water to each chart

and combine the indications from all 5 charts into one, two, or three, to narrow down our choices. There may even be what appears to be a few conflicts between the charts. Your final “educated” preference will resolve any would be initial variance. Look at these charts as Leaning Posts for the direction right or left that your decisions need to lean. Chart #1. Favorable Bait Characteristics Water Clarity

Reference ( ) To be used with Chart #6. Segment # 2.

Crystal Clear (A)

Clear

(B)

Stained

( C )

Heavily Stained

(D)

Muddy

(E)

(1) Wider Wobble * * *

(2) Tighter Wobble * * *

(3) No Wobble * *

(4) Fast Retrieve & Darting Retrieve

* * *

(5) Medium & Stop & Go Retrieve Suspending

* *

* *

* *

* *

From time to time you will see these empty spaces here. These are for your personal notes.

Chart #1. Cont. Favorable Bait Characteristics

Water Clarity


Crystal Clear (A)

Clear

(B)

Stained

( C )

Heavily Stained

(D)

Muddy

(E)

(6) Slow Retrieve & Dead Stick

* * * * *

(7) Bright Colors * * *

(8) Medium Colors * * *

(9) Dark Colors * * * * *

(10) Camouflaged Contrasting Colors

* * * *

*

*

(11) Larger Sized Baits - Profile & Length

* * *

(12) Medium Sized Baits

* * * * *

(13) Smaller Sized Baits * * *

(14) Noisier Baits * * *

(15) Quieter Baits * * *

The size of the asterisk denotes importance. Larger being more important. * Less Important * Average Importance

* More Important

Chart #2. Favorable Bait Characteristics Water Temperature at the depth where bait is fished.


Cold - Winter, or Deep Summer

Water

(A)

Medium - Spring & Fall, Shallow to

Medium Deep Water

(B)

Warm - Summer Shallow water

( C )


(2) Tighter Wobble

* * *

(3) No Wobble * * *


* * *


* *

* *

* *


* * *


(8) Medium Colors

* * *

(9) Dark Colors * * *


*

*

*

*

*

*

Chart #2. Cont. Favorable Bait Characteristics Water Temperature at the depth where bait is fished.


Cold - Winter, or Deep Summer

Water

(A)

Medium - Spring & Fall, Shallow to

Medium Deep Water

(B)

Warm - Summer Shallow water

( C )


* * *


* * *

(13) Smaller Sized Baits

* * *




* More Important Before we get into the next chart, if you have referred to my previous work entitled “Patterning Active Fish” & “ Edges & Ledges” you should see that they contain some pieces of information on/explanation of fish mood and weather patterns. We should see that “anything goes in a time of “feeding frenzy” ; that is, at the point of immediately before the Cold Front passing through the area where our lake is located, essentially located fish of all kinds can be feeding heavily.

Chart #3. Favorable Bait Characteristics Fish Mood - Weather Patterns


Positive - Stable - 3 days

or more of “unchanging”

weather or “conditions”

(A)

Neutral - “Changing” weather or

circumstances

(B)

Negative - 1st or 2nd day

after the “Change”

( C )


(2) Tighter Wobble

* * *

(3) No Wobble * * *


* * *


* *

* *

* *


* * *


(8) Medium Colors

* * *

(9) Dark Colors * * *

Chart #3. Cont. Favorable Bait Characteristics Fish Mood - Weather Patterns


Positive - Stable - 3 days

or more of “unchanging”

weather or “conditions”

(A)

Neutral - “Changing” weather or

circumstances

(B)

Negative - 1st or 2nd day

after the “Change”

( C )


* *

* *

* *


* * *


* * *


* * *




* More Important

Special note on high humidity: High humidity on an otherwise sunny day can have the ultraviolet light blocking effect of a day somewhere between sunny and slightly overcast. Chart #4. Favorable Bait Characteristics Kind & Time of Day


Sunny

(A)

Partly Cloudy

(B)

Overcast

Rain

Twilight

( C )

Night

(D)

Wind causing Chop

(E)

(1) Wider Wobble * * * * *

(2) Tighter Wobble

* * * * *

(3) No Wobble * * * * *


* * * * *


* * * * *


* * * * *

(7) Bright Colors * * * * *

(8) Medium Colors

* * * * *

(9) Dark Colors * * * * *

Chart #4. Favorable Bait Characteristics. Kind & Time of Day


Sunny

(A)

Partly Cloudy

(B)

Overcast

Rain

Twilight

( C )

Night

(D)

Wind causing Chop

(E)


* *

*

*

*

*

*

*

*

*


* * * * *


* * * * *


* * * * *

(14) Noisier Baits * * * * *

(15) Quieter Baits * * * * *

The size of the asterisk denotes importance. Larger being more important.

* Less Important * Average Importance

* More Important

Reminder: At the point in the water column of your baits contact with the fish, if they are in or tight to cover such as weeds, lily pads, trees, stumps, lay downs, under docks, mingled amongst larger rocks, etc., or even down the face of a drop off where light penetration is diminished, or light reaching a particular spot underwater is limited in some way, you will likely be dealing with a different light scenario than what you see above water. When we review the next chart, please also consider if natural colors change seasonally. Colors are a touchy subject in any discussion on fishing. All colors might work under all conditions, if presented properly. There are of course some lakes that defy reasoning, and special “lake specific” colors apply. Again, what follows here is a “Leaning Post”. Chart #5. Favorable Bait Characteristics Water Clarity vs. Bait Colors


B R O W N

A

G O L D C O P P E R B

S I L V E R

W H I T E C

R E D D

Y E L L O W E

O R A N G E F

G R E E N

G

B L U E

H

V I O L E T P I N K I

B L A C K J

“F” “L” “O” “R” “E” “S” “C” “E” “N” “T”

K

Crystal Clear * * * * * * * * * * *

Clear * * * * * * * * * * *

Stained * * * * * * * * * * *

Heavily Stained * * * * * * * * * * *

Muddy * * * * * * * * * * *


* More Important

The color Brown can take on various shades from dark chocolate to high red copper, and all shades of tan in between. Brown, as with the color Green and their many hues/densities, are about half way points for many final bait selections. More times than not however, you will be better off with some other color added. As with every lure in your box the object is to create the proper contrast profile, etc., from the fishes point of view in the water column. Look at the fish and other prey in your lake. What do you see as far as contrast there? If you want your bait to stand out from the rest of these, try one or two shades lighter or darker as contrast from one color pick or the other. The more clear the water, the sharper the coloration of fish will be. Therefore more natural realism in bait selection, coloration, and presentation is needed in clear water and we can get away with less of these components in stained or muddy water.. The colors Gold, and Copper can be particularly effective in tree/brush tannin stained water. With this first segment, I hope we gave you something to come up with better clues to your fishing success. We learned about the color of water, light penetration, the various factors that effect these fundamentals, and the effect they have on our baits during any time during any given fishing day scenario. The next segment - Segment #2 - Chart # 6. - will deal with more of the fine tuning of what you have learned here. To Be Continued in segments 2 & 3 at a later date. RJZ

Bait Selection © - By: Richard Ziert Segment 2. of 3 segments.

Short Recap of segment #1. Welcome back to our “Bait Selection” Seminar. We hope you found the first segment rewarding. That first segment revealed the ins and outs of the color of water, color contrast, a water clarity definition, light penetration and it perception at any given time of day, as well as a insight on how to perceptually adjust these conditions for different quality of water as viewed from the surface and underwater. We learned about the various characteristics of common baits and how they correspond to water clarity, water temperature, fish mood and weather patterns, kind and time of day, and we got into the colors that respond well to the conditions you might face on the water. All in all, it was a lot to think about. In doing so however, you are already well on your way to becoming better fishermen. In Segment #2. we have one more chart to get involved with. This Chart #6 deals with the common and specific types of baits and how they relate to the first 5 charts. This new chart is another way to look at what we are about to accomplish here. Again, you may find conflicts, or grey areas between the preceding charts and the data that follows. These conflicts are unavoidable. Actually, these so called conflicts could be looked at as intentional grey areas in order that you blend the information with individual preferences. It was mentioned several times during Segment 1. That these charts are meant to be “Leaning Posts” with adjustment one way or the other being up to you. The overall information however, can still be used to narrow your choices to the best possible bait for the job. This is where those reference points ( ) of the first 5 charts come in. By following the reference points and other comments in chart #6. We should be able to narrow your bait choices to 2 or 3 baits, and narrow them based on size, color, movement, noise, type of retrieve, etc. for almost all situations you will face on the water. Not all boxes in chart #6. have actual reference points as such but, the overall information should bring “it” together for you. When you view the following chart it must be done in consort or overlay with the previous charts in order to bring greater definition to your choices. There may be times when you disagree with this information. When you see comments below such as “Not Recommended” or “None”, etc., it doesn’t mean those baits will

absolutely not work. What it does mean is that in the vast majority of conditions faced, there is quite possibly a better selection to be made. Undoubtedly, we will miss someone’s favorite bait. To keep up with “Chatter-Baits” or newer “Swim Baits” or whatever, as ever changing the new bait landscape might be, we would outdate this work before it is finished. Again, these indications are trends of the most common types of baits and should be used accordingly. Any newly marketed bait should fit into one of the categories shown. Take notes. Jot down questions. I’ll be available to you at the end of Segment #3. Via email, to possibly help solve your individual situations. Actually, When I first thought of putting this seminar together some 7 or so years ago, I thought some of you would soon see that if all these charts were combined somehow into a computer program, we would have a quick and easy reference that we could take on the water with us. . . For future development! Let’s sort it out a little further. Here we go into Chart #6. . . This is a “Bigun”. Please keep in mind that this chart is meant to be a cross referral mechanism only. Even though this can appear to be overwhelming, believe it or not, over time on the water, you will find yourself doing the things and making the choices that are indicated here automatically. Just for fun: If you ever run out of lures. . .

Chart #6. Favorable Bait Characteristics Specific Kinds of Baits

Reference ( ) To be used with Charts 1-5 Segment # 1.

1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Wider Wobble

While spinner baits with larger, wider blades vibrate more, they do not have what is referred to as a wide wobble. Some spoons have a wide wobble. See Charts: #1. (1CD&E) #2. (1B&C) #3. (1A&B) #4. (1CD&E)

All of these baits have what is considered a wide wobble dependant on the action imparted by the angler.

Jointed, Wooden, Wide Lipped, Fatter, Plastic baits have a wide wobble.

None, unless imparted by the angler, or if they are attached to another device that makes them wiggle more. While this seminar speaks to artificial baits, this category includes live bait where part of the action is imparted by the bait.

None unless imparted by the angler. Hopped up and down or side to side with greater or more frequent force.


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Tighter Wobble

Safety Pin, In Line, and Tail spinners, as well as some spoons have a tight wobble. Spoons can be jigged fluttered vertically, usually in deeper water directly over your target. See Charts: #1. (3A) #2. (3A&C) #3. (3B&C) #4. (3A&B)

All of these baits have what is considered a wide wobble dependant on the action imparted by the angler.

Some narrow bodied and / or more narrow lipped crank baits have a tight wobble. Jerk Baits - suspending, and otherwise, and Swim Baits are likely to fit here.

Curly Tail, Hula Grubs, all have a tight wobble.

Some jigs apply here dependant on the jig head style and/or action imparted by the angler. Reversed skirts can display a wider body, but the wobble is still tighter than it is wider.


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

No Wobble Willow Blade, Small Blade, Small In line spinners all have what can be no wobble. See Charts: #1. (3A) #2. (3A&C) #3. (3B&C) #4. (3A&B)

All, dependant on the lack of action imparted by the angler.

Only while still or suspending.

Tubes, Straight Tail, Other Grubs except for the action imparted by the angler.

The no wobble action here is all dependant on the lake bottom content with action imparted by the angler.


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Fast Retrieve & Darting Retrieve

Fast retrieve and side to side action imparted by the angler is essential to picking up on reaction bites from active fish.

Generally not the best retrieve except in a fast and rapid side to side “Walking The Dog” retrieve/ technique imparted by the angler. There are times however, when a fast straight retrieve - almost out of the water, along with the darting action above will be something convincing enough for the fish to strike.

All crank baits can be retrieved fast. Sometimes the faster the better for active fish and reaction bites.

Generally not the best retrieve here. There are times however when a quick dart of the bait, up or to the side, will trigger a strike.

Not the best retrieve here unless fish are extremely active when anything goes.


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Medium & Stop & Go Retrieve Suspending

Medium to steady retrieve is in order except where stop and go jigging action is imparted. Spinner baits don’t suspend in the water Column. Some may fall through the water slower than others, but none of them suspend.

On average, Top Water baits work best when retrieved at a medium, stop and go pace. Top Water baits don’t suspend, unless we can call letting the bait sit motionless the same as Suspend-ing.

On average, Crank Baits work best when retrieved at a medium, stop and go pace. Cranking down a crank bait and stopping it at depth can be very effective in crystal clear to clear water.

Works best for active to neutral fish moods. Plastics generally don’t suspend unless they have air chambers in them. or salt or “other such” parts or coating. Even then, it’s not really a suspending action, it’s more of a slower rate of fall.

This retrieve works here at most times. Hair, Marabou, and otherwise feathered jigs can be more animated. Jigs don’t, nor are they meant to, suspend in the water column.


1. Spinner Bait

2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Slow Retrieve & Dead Stick

“Dead Sticking“, or stopping - barely moving the bait can be very effective at times of negative to neutral fish mood.

Sometimes a slow to a do nothing approach is the best approach to retrieving baits.

Sometimes a slow to a do nothing approach is the best approach to retrieving baits.

The slower the better here in just about all cases. Longer pauses between moving this bait can prove to be very effective.

Generally, Jigs are designed for this approach.


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Bright Colors All - See Chart: #5. And it’s associate clues

All - See Chart: #5. And it’s associate clues



All - See Chart: #5. And it’s associateclues


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Medium Colors







1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Dark Colors All - See Chart: #5. And it’s associate clues






1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Camouflaged Contrasting Colors







1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Larger Sized Baits - Profile & Length

Some baits apply here. See Charts: #1. (10 D&E)






1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Medium Sized Baits

Some baits apply here. See Charts: (1) 11B&C (2) 11B&C (3) 11A&B (4) 11A,B&C




Most baits apply here. See Charts: (1) 11B&C (2) 11B&C (3) 11A&B (4) 11A,B&C


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Smaller Sized Baits

Some baits apply here. See Charts: (1) 12A (2) 12A&B (3) 12B&C (4) 12A






1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Noisier Baits All spinner Baits depart noise, flash, water vortex, and thump to one degree or another. But, some make more noise than others, such as : Surface Chuggers, Colorado Blades, and bigger blades of any kind. See Charts: (1) 13DC&E (2) 13C (3) 13A&B (4) 13C&D

Poppers, Chuggers, and Prop Baits fall into this area. See Charts: (1) 13DC&E (2) 13C (3) 13A&B (4) 13C&D

Jointed Crank Baits and those with rattles fall into this area. See Charts: (1) 13DC&E (2) 13C (3) 13A&B (4) 13C&D

Soft baits can be made noisier with rattles. See Charts: (1) 13DC&E (2) 13C (3) 13A&B (4) 13C&D

Jigs with rattles are noisier. See Charts: (1) 13DC&E (2) 13C (3) 13A&B (4) 13C&D


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Quieter Baits Smaller, longer, more narrow blades such as Willow Leaf Blades apply here. This bait can be purposely clacked off of lake bottom structure to make noise. See Charts: (1) 14A&B (2) 14A (3) 14B&C (4) 14A

Most Top Water Baits are quiet except chuggers and Prop Baits. See Charts: (1) 14A&B (2) 14A (3) 14B&C (4) 14A

Most Crank Baits are quiet except jointed baits or baits with rattles., or where this bait is purposely clacked off of lake bottom structure. See Charts: (1) 14A&B (2) 14A (3) 14B&C (4) 14A

All soft baits are quiet except were rattles are added or where Carolina Rigging applies. See Charts: (1) 14A&B (2) 14A (3) 14B&C (4) 14A

All Jigs are quiet except where rattles are added, or where this bait is purposely clacked off of lake bottom structure. See Charts: (1) 14A&B (2) 14A (3) 14B&C (4) 14A


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Crystal Clear Water

Smaller Spinner Baits apply here. See Charts: (1) 9A&B (1) 12A (2) 9A&B (2) 12A&B (3) 9B&C (3) 12B&C (4) 9A&B (4) 12A (5) 1G through J Optional contrast with lighter colors.

All Top Water baits work well in this kind of water. See Charts: (1) 9A&B (1) 12A (2) 9A&B (2) 12A&B (3) 9B&C (3) 12B&C (4) 9A&B (4) 12A (5) 1G through J Optional contrast with lighter colors.

Crank Baits that are narrow lipped and narrow bodied. Suspend-ing baits work well here. Swim Baits can be effective under special circum-stances related to lake stocking of prey fishes. See Charts: (1) 9A&B (1) 12A (2) 9A&B (2) 12A&B (3) 9B&C (3) 12B&C (4) 9A&B (4) 12A (5) 1G through J Optional contrast with lighter colors.

All plastics work here except brightest colors. Generally trend colors darker. See Charts: (1) 9A&B (1) 12A (2) 9A&B (2) 12A&B (3) 9B&C (3) 12B&C (4) 9A&B (4) 12A (5) 1G through J Optional contrast with lighter colors.

All Jigs work well here, except bright colors. Trend colors darker. See Charts: (1) 9A&B (1) 12A (2) 9A&B (2) 12A&B (3) 9B&C (3) 12B&C (4) 9A&B (4) 12A (5) 1G through J Optional contrast with lighter colors.


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Clear Water Most See Charts: (1) 2B (5) 2F thru J Optional contrast with brighter colors

Most See Charts: (1) 2B (5) 2F thru J Optional contrast with brighter colors





1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Stained Water

Larger Brighter See Charts: (1) 7D&E 10D&E (2) 7B&C 10AB&C (3) 7A&B 10A&B (4) 7B,C,D&E (5) 3A thru E Optional contrast with darker colors.






1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Heavily Stained Water

Larger Still. Still Brighter than Stained Water. See Charts: (1) 7D&E 10D&E (2) 7B&C 10A,B,&C (3) 7A&B 10A&B (4) 7B,C,D&E 10B,C,D&E (5) 4C thru F $J&K Optional contrast with darker colors.






1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Muddy Water

Largest Brightest Nosiest Trailers increase the profile & length of this bait. See Charts: (1) 7D&E 10D&E (2) 7B&C 10 A,B&C (3) 7A&B 10 A&B (4) B,C,D&E 10B,C,D&E (5) 5C thru F 5J&K Optional contrast with darker colors.

Largest Brightest Nosiest See Charts: (1) 7D&E 10D&E (2) 7B&C 10 A,B&C (3) 7A&B 10 A&B (4) B,C,D&E 10B,C,D&E (5) 5C thru F 5J&K Optional contrast with darker colors.



Largest Brightest Nosiest Artificial or live bait jig trailers increase the profile & length of this bait. See Charts: (1) 7D&E 10D&E (2) 7B&C 10 A,B&C (3) 7A&B 10 A&B (4) B,C,D&E 10B,C,D&E (5) 5C thru F 5J&K Optional contrast with darker colors.

Reference ( ) To be used with Charts 1-5 Segment #

1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

1.

Cold Water Please refer to the preferred temp range of the species you fish for. This is best done locally.

Larger Slower See Charts: (2) 3A 6A 9A 10A 12A 14A (5) Lean toward camoufla-ged colors & subtle contrasts

Not recommen-ded

Narrow lip, slender body. See Charts: (2) 3A 6A 9A 10A 12A 14A (5) Lean toward camoufla-ged colors & subtle contrasts

All except brightest neon. See Charts: (5)Lean toward camoufla-ged colors & subtle contrasts

All except brightest neon. See Charts: (5)Lean toward camoufla-ged colors & subtle contrasts


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Medium Temp Water Please refer to the preferred temp range of the species you fish for. This is best done locally.

All See Charts: (2) 2B 5B 8B 10B 11B






1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Warm Water Please refer to the preferred temp range of the species you fish for. This is best done locally.

All See Charts: (2) 1C 4C 7C 10C 11C 13C (5) Trend colors brighter.






1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Positive Fish Mood

All Anything Goes.

All Anything Goes.

All Anything Goes.

All Anything Goes.

All Anything Goes.


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Neutral Fish Mood

Some Trend baits negative or positive mood based on the amount of time into the weather change. See Charts: (3) All






1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Negative Fish Mood Special Note: Pinpointing and hitting your target is very important during a negative mood situation.

Not Recomme-nded unless a very slow rolling/dead stick presentation is used.

Not Recomme-nded unless your retrieve includes very long pauses between twitching the bait.

Not Recomme-nded unless bait is retrieved ultra slow with long pauses.

All Slow to slower present-ation on down to a standstill if needed.

All Slow present-ation on down to a standstill if need be.

Reference ( ) To be used with Charts 1-5 Segment #

1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

1.

Sunny Day Most See Charts: (4) 3A 6A 9A 12A 14A

Most See Charts: (4) 3A 6A 9A 12A 14A

Most See Charts: (4) 3A 6A 9A 12A 14A

All All


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Partly Cloudy Day

Most See Charts: (4) 2B 4B 8B 11B



All All


1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Overcast Rain Twilight

All See Charts: (4) 7C

Most See Charts: (4) 7C

Most See Charts: (4) 7C




1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Night Larger Brighter Fatter Profile With most pronounced color contrast. Bright light from Moon contrast baits Darker. Dim light from Moon, contrast colors lighter. See Charts: (4) 1D 6D 10D 13D

Larger Brighter Fatter Profile With most pronounced color contrast. Bright light from Moon contrast baits Darker. Dim light from Moon, contrast colors lighter. See Charts: (4) 1D 6D 10D 13D





1. Spinner

Bait 2. Spoon

Top Water

Crank Baits

Soft

Plastic

Jig/

Trailer

Wind Causing

Chop

Most See Charts: (4) 5E 7E 10E

Some See Charts: (4) 5E 7E 10E

All All All

A special comment on Night Fishing may be in order here. There seems to be a widely observed period of time at Sunset when the bite slacks off for an hour or so. While there is no scientific proof of this concept and the reasons for it, if true it would lead me to believe that it depends on where the fish is in the water column at the onslaught of Twilight. The jury is still out on this one. That’s it for Segment #2. Work on the cross referral mechanism of these charts amongst yourselves for a time or two. The more you work with them the more you will see patterns forming. Patterns that can be used toward better bait selection.

Bait Selection © 1/2000 - By: Richard Ziert Segment #3. of 3 Segments Welcome back to our “Bait Selection” Seminar. We hope you found the first two segments rewarding. That first segment revealed the ins and outs of the color of water, color contrast, a water clarity definition, light penetration and it perception at any given time of day, as well as a insight on how to perceptually adjust these conditions for different quality of water as viewed from the surface and underwater. We learned about the various characteristics of common baits and how they correspond to water clarity, water temperature, fish mood and weather patterns, kind and time of day, and we got into the colors that respond well to the conditions you might face on the water.

All in all, it was a lot to think about. In doing so however, you are already well on your way to becoming better fishermen. In Segment #2. we have one more chart to get involved with. This Chart #6 deals with the common and specific types of baits and how they relate to the first 5 charts. This new chart is another way to look at what we are about to accomplish here. Again, you may find conflicts, or grey areas between the preceding charts and the data that follows. These conflicts are unavoidable. Actually, these so called conflicts could be looked at as intentional grey areas in order that you blend the information with individual preferences. It was mentioned several times during Segment 1. That these charts are meant to be “Leaning Posts” with adjustment one way or the other being up to you. The overall information however, can still be used to narrow your choices to the best possible bait for the job. Segment #3. Situational Analysis This segment deals with Situational Analysis at specific locations on our lakes and specific spots or three dimensional cubbyholes within those locations. To give an example of how the various charts and the following hypothesized illustration can work for you let’s look at the following conditions to see if we can 1. Select appropriate baits, 2. Have better presentation of those baits, and 3. Discover places, and cubby holes within places where these baits might be best utilized. Here’s the situation: We are fishing for Large Mouth Bass. Reference If you want to fish for Walleyes or other fish, you need to adjust your perspective to the characteristics light sensitivity of the fish you are pursuing. The lake we are fishing in would be considered a “clear” Chart #1. lake if the full midday sun were directly overhead at the beginning of August. Today however, we are fishing an early Fall day with the Chart #1. Sun somewhat lower to the Southern Horizon. Surface water temperature is 76 degrees with the water Chart # 2. turning colder as Fall/Winter approaches.

The water temperature at the 17 foot depth is 68 degrees. Chart # 2. The Relative Humidity is 70% (Indian Summer) Chart # 3. We are fishing the second day after a cold front moved Chart # 3. through the area. The fish are assumed to be in a neutral turning positive mood. Chart # 3. We are fishing a slightly overcast day where the clouds are Chart # 4. able to block about 25% of the available Sunlight. We are on the water at 3: P.M.. The Sun is at 10:00 o’clock Chart # 4. in the South West Sky. We are fishing a submerged , still green, loosely packed Chart # 4. weed bed The weed bed has two kinds of weeds within its boundaries. Chart # 4. The weeds top out at 13 feet leaving 2 feet of water ‘’Edges & Ledges” between their tops and the surface. There is an inside edge to the weed bed at the “Edeges & Ledges” shoreline with 10 foot wide stretch of Pea Gravel is located before the weeds begin into the lake. “Edeges & Ledges” The weed patch runs for 100 yards along the shore. “Edeges & Ledges” The weed patch is located on the North West side Chart # 1. of the lake. The wind is out of the South East causing a mild chop Chart # 1. on the surface. There are two trenches in the lake bottom in or near Illustration the weed-bed. “Light Penetration”

Lake “Turnover” has not yet occurred. ‘Patterning Active Fish” What follows is an illustration of the hypothetical lake section we are about to fish based on the preceding criteria . Instead of giving you a map to work from, you will find it much more effective if you spread your own map on the table before you, become interactive, and line out the interested spot into Grid sections as follows: In some cases you will have to use your imagination (Section 10. calls for a ditch; if you don’t have one on your personal map, for the purposes of this seminar pencil one in) – but that’s what this seminar wants you to do. It’s only when you reason within yourselves as to the where and why, will you be firm on what you have to do. If you don’t have a map handy here’s a link to pick one from Bass Pro Shops on line maps.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?appID=86&CMID=OLLAKEMAPS&langId=-1&cmid=OLLAKEMAPS&pageView=image&catalogId=10001&partNumber=&storeId=10151&deptId=000000000&categoryId=000000000&jumpToPage=1&currentPage=0&subdeptId=000000000 Or pick a map from their library that suits you. Grid Serctions

Section # ? Section # ? Section # ? Section # ? Section # ? Section # ? Section # ? Section # ? Section # ? Section # ?

Grid Section 1. This is one of the areas with the most light penetration for the weed bed and least active fish. Negative to neutral fish mood. If fish are here they will be tight to the bottom. Smaller plastic worms and jigs, other smaller plastic baits. No wobble.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CFPage?appID=86&CMID=OLLAKEMAPS&langId=-1&cmid=OLLAKEMAPS&pageView=image&catalogId=10001&partNumber=&storeId=10151&deptId=000000000&categoryId=000000000&jumpToPage=1&currentPage=0&subdeptId=000000000



Because of the kind of day, the Suns angle and intensity, and the chop on the surface consider somewhat brighter colors but trending darker, with less vivid bait contrasts. Slow retrieve. Grid Section 2. This is one of the areas of the most light penetration, but not as much as Section 1. Near the bottom in this section the light penetration will be less than in section 1. Fish will be on or near the bottom, but possible not as tight to the bottom as in section 1. Medium sized plastic worms and other plastic baits will be good here. Jigs will start to work better here. Again, no wobble here. Because this is a little deeper water consider darker colors, and an even slower retrieve than in section 1. There is a 15 foot deep trench in this section. This trench may be a bonanza fish stacking area under these conditions. Because the depth isn’t that much different from the section overall, use the same baits and presentations. Here however, line your boat up so that your bait stays in the trench for the longest period of time during your retrieve. Grid Section 3. This is one of the most light penetrating sections at the surface. This surface area down to about 5 feet is the same quality as section 1. Near the bottom less light gets through. In sections 1., 2., & 3. The light penetrates more on the side toward the sun than it does on the east/right side of these sections. The more active fish will be deeper here and toward the east part of the section. Fish could be just slightly off the bottom here. Larger plastic worms and other plastic baits are appropriate here. Larger profile jigs with trailer will start to work better here. No wobble. Consider some noise, but it’s probably still not the best place for noise just yet. Consider darker contrasted baits and an even slower retrieve than in section 2. We may want to start hopping the Jigs here. Grid Section 4. Less light penetration and slightly more active fish than grids 1.&2. And still less light and more activity as we approach grid 7. Fish will be neutral to positive in mood. Because this is shallow water fish can be tight to the bottom. Slight to medium wobble and sized baits will work. Slowly moving spinner baits ticking the tops of the weeds. Shallow diving and lipless crank baits moved just fast enough not to get caught in the weed tops. Plastic baits and jigs will work here as well. Moderate colors near the waters surface. Somewhat darker colors near the bottom.

Maybe some slight noise will work here. Moderate stop and go retrieve with longer pauses for baits used near the bottom. Grid Section 5. Less light penetration than grids 2., 3., & 6. But more than in grids 7., & 8.. The deeper the fish are found in this grid the more active they will be. Neutral to positive swing in fish mood. Fish are away from the bottom slightly. Weed hang-ups are always going to be a problem Narrow to medium wobble lures. Medium to slightly bigger baits than used in Grid 2.. The prospects for catching fish in the upper layers here are not as promising as they are in Grids 7. & 8.. Spinner baits ticking the tops of the weeds again. Concentrate more on the lower half of the water column. Jigs and plastics work in most grids, and are a good bet in this one. Tend darker on bait color. Retrieves will be slow with occasional hops off the bottom. Grid Section 6. The most light penetration in this grid occurs at the surface and toward the south mid lake weed wall. The least active fish of this grid section will be found in these areas. Neutral fish mood turning positive deeper. Slightly noisy baits may start to be effective here. Fish are tight to cover here. Darker colors are in order here going even darker as the water deepens. Larger jigs and plastic baits are appropriate here as well. Retrieve all baits slow to even slower as they are presented deeper. Grid Section 7. - Sweetest of the sweet spots within this weed bed. For the conditions faced at this time. Because there’s two feet of water above the weed bed light penetration is going to be just as it is for any other similar area in the weed bed. Actually all grids will be the same in that respect. But, once our baits get into the weeds here we find the most positive fish for the overall conditions we are currently facing. The most active fish will be found as we move toward the easterly weed wall and the bottom. Medium to wide wobble, and medium to larger baits here. Top water baits on a moderate to fast “Walk the Dog” retrieve. Moderately retrieved willow leaf spinner baits retrieved to tick the tops of the weeds - short stop and go helicopter presentation. Shallow diving and lipless crank baits moved quickly across the tops of and just into the weeds. Stand up and or floating plastics, and jigs with bigger

profile will work. Moderate to lighter colors near the surface, darker contrasted colors deeper. If noisy baits are going to work in this weed bed they are going to work in this grid section better than in any other. Moderate to stop and go retrieves with baits used on or near the bottom. Don’t forget to fish the wall of the shallow water weed line toward shore. Fish it tight to the bottom. It could be a jackpot place. The east weed wall also needs investigation for any pockets or dents, etc. Fish a reaper type plastic bait in this areas with or without a jig head. Good place to split shot plastics, as the fish just may take the bait as it falls through the water column. Grid Section 8. - Another Sweet spot for the conditions faced now. The open water on top of the weeds , and for a distance down into the weeds, will always spell more light penetration, and less penetration thereafter. The deeper the fish are found in this area, the more active those fish will be. There is a neutral to positive fish mood here. Fish are not so tight to the bottom. Medium to widest wobble baits are need here. The absolute sweet spot for this weed bed is the lower part of Grid Section 7., and the upper part of this Grid Section, running all the way to just outside of the weed wall to the East. Slow to moderate short stop and go retrieve. Spinner baits ticking the tops of the weeds and just beneath the weed tops will work well here. Somewhat deeper diving crank baits than in Grid Section 7. Lipless crank baits moved just fast enough so as not to get hung up in the weeds. We might even try burning these baits back to us at this point. Plastic baits of all sorts including floating types, and of course Jigs will work here. Moderate colors trended lighter near the surface, and Darker colors contrasted even darker would be a good bet here. Don’t be afraid to use noisey baits here. Longer pauses for baits used on or near the bottom. Again, don’t overlook the top to bottom weed wall to the East. Some of your better fish may come from pockets and dents located there. Grid Section 9. Most light penetration in the upper layer of water The most active fish for the weed bed can be found at the upper section of this section and toward the weed wall to the east. Moderate to darker shallow baits in the upper half of the water column, and darker greater contrasted baits for the lower half. Slower wider wobble baits. Bigger baits. Use noise if you like. Bigger Colorado blades on bigger profile spinner baits. Bigger fatter crank baits. Maybe even jointed baits along the weed bed wall to the east. Move baits slower to slowest here. Plastic baits of all kind, and jigs with trailers will work here, as well as around any weed line found here.

Map Area Section 10. - One of the better spots on the map. The position, width, and depth of this imaginary trench relative to or in proximity to the weed bed has success written all over it for the conditions we faced today. Based on the trends you see elsewhere in this seminar, you tell me what baits, and presentations should be the most effective here. I’m confident you will make the right choices. Obviously, If we were to fish all the baits suggested separately for each Grid Section we would be a very busy fisherman rounding up that heard of stuff. The point to the above illustration is to give you a greater understanding of narrowing or expanding environmental conditions and their dynamic three dimensional interplay. If we pick our baits wisely, and present them effectively, we can overlap many boundaries of the Grid Section Examples and still catch fish with just a few baits tied on. One thing you could do to practice what you’ve learned here is to take the sheet with all the conditions under which we fished this hypothetical lake in our situational analysis, and create your own conditions all down the line. Then, figure out what you need to do in approaching your own situation. We sincerely hope you’ve enjoyed our experimental seminar here. Only you know if you picked up some tips in understanding Bait Selection. If you need to talk anything over with me, please feel free to contact me through Walleye Central under Site Name: Klass Act. R.J.Ziert

bait selection 1/2000 by: richard ziert · select the most effective kinds/characteristics of...

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