Why Go?Like an oyster, Bahrain’s rough exterior takes some prising open, but it is worth the effort. From the excellent National Museum in Manama to the extraordinary burial mounds at Sar, there are many fine sites to visit.

The country has long been defined by its relationship with water. Meaning ‘Two Seas’ in Arabic, Bahrain’s focus is not the island’s minimal land mass, but the shallow waters that lap its shores. The sweet-water springs that bubble off-shore helped bring about 4000 years of settlement, the lay-ers of which are exposed in rich archaeological sites around the island. The springs also encouraged lustrous pearls – the trade that helped to build the island’s early fortunes.

Much of Manama’s modern wealth, illustrated in high-profile building projects, rises proudly from land ‘reclaimed’ from the sea. With the projected effects of global warming, however, the sea may yet have the last laugh.

Bahrain بحرين

When to Go

Nov–Mar Bask in the relative cool of a Gulf winter with daily blue skies.

Apr Join the ex-citement of life in the fast lane dur-ing the Formula One Grand Prix.

Apr Enjoy tradi-tional dancing at the annual Heritage Festival.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

Bahrain°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm

0

30/25

12/10

18/15

24/20

6/5

18/50

9/32

-0/14

36/86

45/104

27/68

Best for Culture¨¨ Bahrain National Museum

(p49)

¨¨ Qala’at al-Bahrain (p62)

¨¨ Beit Sheikh Isa Bin Ali (p66)

¨¨ Sar (p63)

¨¨ A’Ali (p63)

Best for Nature¨¨ Al-Areen Wildlife Park &

Reserve (p65)

¨¨ Hawar Islands (p68)

¨¨ Dar Island (p68)

¨¨ Tree of Life (p66)

Manama......................49Bahrain Fort Complex ...................... 62A’Ali ............................. 63Sar .............................. 63King Fahd Causeway ... 64Al-Jasra ....................... 64Riffa Fort ..................... 64Bahrain International Circuit .......................... 64Al-Areen ...................... 65Tree of Life .................. 66Oil Museum ................. 66Muharraq Island ......... 66

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Daily CostsBahrain suits most pockets. With budget accommodation from US$70 (or less if you’re prepared to share with dubious company!), cheap options for eating (around US$5) and free access to many of the main sites of interest, a minimum dai-ly cost with transport comes to around US$120. This rises to US$170 if staying in midrange hotels and for a top-end hotel with car hire, US$350 is nearer the mark.

ITINERARIES

StopoverExamine snapshots of the ancient and modern in Bah-rain¨National¨Museum before wandering around the real thing in the wind-tower residences of neighbour-ing Muharraq. Share communal space with Islam at the giant Al-Fatih¨Mosque and pause for matters more corporal at one of Adliya’s chic cafes. Get down and dirty in central Manama, drifting with street hawk-ers through Bab¨al-Bahrain and bargaining for local pearls in Gold¨City.

Three¨DaysAfter allowing day one for Manama, spend day two with the dead at Bahrain¨Fort and Sar. Admire the continuity with the ancient in the crafts of Al-Jasra and complete the burial circuit at A’Ali for sunset. Either pump up the pace on day three with a trip to the Formula One Racetrack or go slow at nearby Al-Areen¨Wildlife¨Park¨&¨Reserve.

For¨ExpatsFor those escaping the capital high life, cross the plains to the Oil¨Museum to see what the city’s wealth is founded upon and visit the nearby Tree¨of¨Life, resting on even sparser foundations. If island fever sets in, dive off the edge with a nose-peg and sharp knife to collect pearls. Less painfully, take a weekend package to the Hawar¨Islands and ponder what a tidal rise of two inches might do to the islands’ waistlines.

Essential Food & Drink¨¨Makbus Rice and spices with chicken, lamb or fish in sauce.

¨¨ Rangena Coconut cake.

¨¨ Khabees Dates in a variety of sizes, colours and states of ripeness.

¨¨ Tap¨water Safe to drink although most people stick to bottled water.

¨¨ Alcohol Available but discouraged through high tariffs.

¨¨ Coffee Any place called a ‘coffeehouse’ is usually a bar and intended for men only.

AT¨A¨GLANCE¨¨ Currency Bahraini

dinar (BD)

¨¨Mobile¨phones SIM cards widely available

¨¨Money ATMs widespread; credit cards widely accepted

¨¨ Visas Available on arrival for many nationalities

Fast Facts¨¨ Capital Manama

¨¨ Country¨code 973

¨¨ Language Arabic (English widely spoken)

¨¨Official¨name Kingdom of Bahrain

¨¨ Population 1.3 million

Exchange RatesFor current exchange rates see www.xe.com.

Australia A$10 BD3.91

Euro zone €10 BD4.87

Kuwait KD1 BD1.34

Oman OR1 BD0.98

Qatar QR10 BD1.04

Saudi Arabia

SR10 BD1

UAE Dh1 BD1.02

UK UK£10 BD5.70

USA US$10 BD3.77

Yemen YR100 BD0.18

Resources¨¨Al-Reem¨Tours (www.

alreem.com) A green site ¨¨Bahrain¨Tourism (www.

moc.gov.bh) Official site ¨¨Clickbahrain (www.

clickbahrain.com) Complete island guide

47Bah

rain Bah

rain