awt embroidery

7/28/2019 Awt Embroidery

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Needlepoint

Needlepoint is a form ofcounted thread embroideryin whichyarnisstitched through a stiffopen weave canvas. It comes from the origin point

needle in the Latin roots. Most needlepoint designs completely cover thecanvas. Although needlepoint may be worked in a variety of stitches, manyneedlepoint designs use only a simpletent stitchwhich rely upon colorchanges to construct a pattern.

The degree of detail in needlepoint depends on thethread countof theunderlying mesh fabric. Needlepoint worked on fine canvas is knownaspetit point. Due to the inherent stiffness of needlepoint, common usesinclude wall hangings, pillows, upholstery, holiday ornaments, purses andeyeglass cases.

History

The roots of needlepoint go back thousands of years to the ancientEgyptians, who used small slanted stitches to sew up their canvas tents.Howard Carter, of Tutankhamen fame, found some needlepoint in the Cave

of a Pharaoh who had lived 1500 years before Christ. Modern needlepointdescends from the canvas work in Tent Stitch, done on an evenly wovenopen ground fabric, that was a popular domestic craft in the 16th century.

The development of needlepoint also got significant contributions from17th-century Bargello through the shaded Berlin wool work in brightlycolored wool yarn in the 19th century. Upholstered furniture became the
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fashion in the 17th century, and this prompted the development of a moredurable material to serve as a foundation for the embroidered works of art.

Terminology

Differences between needlepoint and other types of embroidery

Needlepoint is worked upon specialized types of stiff canvas that haveopenings at regular intervals.

Embroidery that is not needlepoint often uses soft cloth and requires

anembroidery hoop.

Needlepointrefers to a particular set of stitching techniques worked uponstiff openwork canvas.

Because it is stitched on a fabric that is an open grid, needlepoint is notembellishing a fabric, as is the case with most other types of embroidery,but literally the making of a new fabric. It is for this reason that manyneedlepoint stitches must be of sturdier construction than other embroiderystitches.
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"Needlepoint" is not synonymous with all types of embroidery. Needlepointis often referred to as "tapestry" in the United Kingdom and sometimes as"canvaswork." Needlepoint differs from true tapestry, which is woven on avertical loom. Needlepoint is stitched on canvas mesh. When worked onfine weave canvas in Tent Stitch it is also known as "Petitpoint"."Needlepoint lace" is also an older term forneedle lace, a historiclacemaking technique. When referring to handcrafted textile arts which aspeaker is unable to identify, the appropriate generalized term is"needlework".

If needlepoint is worked on a canvas that has 16 to 20 or more mesh holesper linear inch, the embroidery is calledpetit point;if the number of holesranges from 7 or 8 to 16 squares per inch, it is called gros point; and, if themesh openings are fewer than 7, it is known as quick point. From the 16thto the 18th century most needlepoint was petit point with 20 to 45 squaresper linear inch.

Berlin Work (also spelled Berlinwork) refers to a subset of needlepoint,popular in the mid-19th Century that was stitched in brightly colored woolon needlepoint canvas from hand-colored charts.

Contemporary techniques

Materials

Thethreadsused for stitching may bewool,silk,cottonor combinations,

such as wool-silk blend. Variety fibers may also be used, such as metalliccord, metallic braid,ribbon, orraffia. Stitches may be plain, covering justone thread intersection with a single orientation, or fancy, such asinbargelloor other counted-thread stitches. Plain stitches, known astentstitches, may be worked asbasketweave, continentalorhalf cross.Basketweave uses the most wool, but does not distort the rectangularmesh and makes for the best-wearing piece.

Several types of embroidery canvas are available: single thread and doublethread embroidery canvas are open even-weave meshes, with largespaces or holes to allow heavy threads to pass through without fraying.Canvas is sized by mesh sizes, or thread count per inch. Sizes vary from 5threads per inch to 24 threads per inch; popular mesh sizes are 10, 12, 14,18, and 24 (Congress Cloth). The different types of needlepoint canvasavailable on the market are mono, penelope, interlock, rug and plastic
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Mono canvas comes in the widest variety of colors (especially 18mesh) and isplain woven, with oneweftthread going over and underonewarpthread. This canvas has the most possibilities for manipulationand open canvas. It is used for hand-painted canvases as well ascounted thread canvaswork.

Penelope canvas has two threads closely grouped together in bothwarp and weft. Because these threads can be split apart, penelopesizes are often expressed with two numbers, such as 10/20.

Interlock Mono Canvas is more stable than the others and is made bytwisting two thin threads around each other for the lengthwise threadand "locking" them into a single crosswise thread. Interlock canvas isgenerally used for printed canvases. Silk gauze is a form of interlockcanvas, which is sold in small frames for petit-point work. Silk gauzemost often comes in 32, 40 or 48 count, although some 18 count is

available and 64, 128 and other counts are used for miniature work. Rug canvas is a mesh of strong cotton threads, twisting two threads

around each other lengthwise forms the mesh and locking them arounda crosswise thread made the same way; this cannot be separated.Canvases come in different gauges, and rug canvas is 3.3 mesh and 5mesh, which is better for more detailed work.

Plastic Canvas is a stiff canvas that is generally used for smallerprojects and is sold as pre-cut pieces" rather than by the yard. Plasticcanvas is an excellent choice for beginners who want to practice

different stitches.

Frames and hoops

Needlepoint canvas is stretched on ascroll frameor tacked onto arectangular wooden frame to keep the work taut during stitching. Petit pointis sometimes worked in a smallembroidery hooprather than a scroll frame.

Patterns

Commercial designs for needlepoint may be found in different forms: Hand-Painted Canvas, Printed Canvas, Trammed Canvas, Charted Canvas, andFree-form.

In Hand-Painted Canvas, the design is painted on the canvas by thedesigner, or painted to their specifications by an employee or contractor.Canvases may be stitch-painted, meaning each thread intersection is
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painstakingly painted so that the stitcher has no doubts about what color ismeant to be used at that intersection. Alternatively, they may be hand-painted, meaning that the canvas is painted by hand but the stitcher willhave to use their judgment about what colors to use if a thread intersectionis not clearly painted. Hand-painted canvases allow the stitcher to give freerange to their creativity with threads and unique stitches by not having topay attention to a separate chart. In North America this is the most popularform of needlepoint canvas.

Printed Canvas is when the design is printed bysilk screeningor computeronto the needlepoint canvas. Printing the canvas in this means allows forfaster creation of the canvas and thus has a lower price than Hand-PaintedCanvas. However, care must be taken that the canvas is straight beforebeing printed to ensure that the edges of the design are straight. Designsare typically less involved due to the limited color palette of this printingmethod. The results (and the price) of printed canvas vary extensively.Often printed canvases come as part of kits, which also dramatically vary inquality, based on the printing process and the materials used. This form ofcanvas is widely available outside North America.

On a Trammed Canvas the design is professionally stitched onto thecanvas by hand using horizontal stitches of varying lengths of wool of theappropriate colours. The canvas is usually sold together with the woolrequired to stitch the trammed area. The stitcher then uses tent stitch overthe horizontal lines with the tramme stitches acting as an accurate guide as

to the colour and number of stitches required. This technique is particularlysuited to designs with a large area of mono-colour background as suchareas do not require tramming, reducing the cost of the canvas andallowing the stitcher to choose the background colour themselves. ThePortuguese island ofMadeirais the historic centre for the manufacture oftrammed canvases.

Charted Canvas designs are available in book or leaflet form. They areavailable at book stores and independent needlework stores. ChartedCanvas designs are typically printed in two ways: either in grid form with

each thread intersection being represented with a symbol that shows whatcolor is meant to be stitched on that intersection, or as a line drawing wherethe stitcher is to trace the design onto his canvas and then fill in thoseareas with the colors listed. Books typically include a grouping of designsfrom a single designer such asKaffe Fassettor Candace Bahouth, or maybe centered around a theme such as Christmas orVictorianNeedlepoint.
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Leaflets usually include one to two designs and are usually printed by theindividual designer.

Free-form needlepoint designs are created by the stitcher. They may bebased around a favorite photograph, stitch, thread color, etc. The stitcher

just starts stitching! Many interesting pieces are created this way. It allowsfor the addition of found objects, appliqu, computer-printed photographs,goldwork, or specialty stitches.

While traditionally needlepoint has been done to create a solid fabric, moremodern needlepoint incorporates open canvas, techniques which allowsome of the unstitched, or lightly stitched, canvas to show through. Someof these techniques include "shadow" or "lite" stitching,blackworkoncanvas, andpattern darning.

Needlepoint continues to evolve as stitchers use new techniques and

threads, and add appliqu or found materials. The line betweenneedlepoint and other forms ofcounted-thread embroideryis becomingblurred as new stitchers adapt techniques and materials from other formsof embroidery to needlepoint.
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CREWEL EMBROIDERY

Crewel Embroidery, orCrewelwork, is a decorative form ofsurfaceembroideryusingwooland a variety of differentembroidery

stitchesto follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is atleast a thousand years old. It was used in theBayeux Tapestry,inJacobean embroideryand in theQuaker tapestry.

The origin of the word crewel is unknown but is thought to come from anancient word describing the curl in the staple, the single hair of thewool.Crewel woolhas a long staple; it is fine and can be strongly twisted.Modern crewel wool is a fine, 2-ply or 1-ply yarn available in many differentcolours.

Description of the technique

The crewel technique is not acounted-thread embroidery(likecanvaswork), but a style offree embroidery. It was in the 17th Century, its heyday,and now traditionally worked on a closely woven linen twill ground"Jacobean linen twill"fabric, typicallylinenorcotton. This linen is part of thedesign and many stitches allow the sight of the linen through and aroundthe design. More recently commercially made crewel is being made onMatkasilk, cottonvelvet,rayonvelvet, silk organza, net fabric and alsojute.

A firm fabric is required to support the weight of the stitching.Specialcrewel needlesor [sewing needle] are required, with a wide body,large eye and a sharp point.

The outlines of the design to be worked are often screen printed onto thefabric or can be transferred to plain fabric using modern transfer pens,containing water soluble ink or air soluble ink, or iron-on designs appliedusing transfer sheets. The old fashioned "pinprick and chalk" or "prick andpounce" methods also work well. This is where the design outlines onpaper are pricked with a needle to produce perforations along the lines.Powderedchalkorpouncematerial is then forced through the holes ontothe fabric using a felt pad or stipple brush in order to replicate the design onthe material.

Designs range from the traditional to more contemporary patterns. Thetraditional design styles are often referred to asJacobean
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embroideryfeaturing highly stylized floral and animal designs with flowingvines and leaves.

Many different embroidery stitches are used in crewelwork to create atextured and colorful effect. Unlike silk or cotton embroidery threads, crewel

wool is thicker and creates a raised, dimensional feel to the work. Some ofthe techniques and stitches include:

Outlining stitches such asstem stitch,chain stitchandsplit stitch

Satin stitchesto create flat, filled areas within a design

Couched stitches, where one thread is laid on the surface of the fabricand another thread is used to tie it down. Couching is often used tocreate a trellis effect within an area of the design.

Seed stitches, applied randomly in an area to give a lightly shadedeffect

French knotsare commonly used in floral and fruit motifs for additionaltexture

Laid and Couched Work

Long and Short "soft shading"

Crewel embroidery was, in the past, embroidered to create elaborate andexpensive bed hangings and curtains. Now it is most often used todecorate cushions, curtains, clothing and wall hangings. Recently severalother items such as Lamp Shades, Handbags, have been added to evergrowing list of crewel home furnishings. A Tambour Work technique is alsoused for creating chain stitched rugs, and is sometimes referred to ascrewel work.

Unlike canvas work, crewel embroidery requires the use of anembroideryhoopor frame on which the material is stretched taut and secured prior tostitching. This ensures an even amount of tension in the stitches, so thatdesigns do not become distorted. Although nowadays, crewel and freeembroidery is generally executed with a small portable hoop, earlyembroidery was executed on large free standing frames. Such freestanding frames were common parlor furniture in most homes. Therectangular canvas mount could tilt and pivot over so thattheneedleworkercould also access the back of the canvas with ease.
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The Bayeux Tapestry

The Middle Ages encompass one of the most exciting periods in English History.

It is anembroideredclothnot an actualtapestrynearly 70 metres

(230 ft) long, which depicts the events leading up to theNorman conquest

of EnglandconcerningWilliam, Duke of NormandyandHarold, Earl of

Wessex, later King of England, and culminating in theBattle of Hastings.

Coloured wool was used to embroider important scenes which led up to the

Norman invasion of England and the Battle at Hastings in 1066. The Bayeux

tapestry consists of eight long strips of unbleached linen which have been sewn

together to form a continuous panel - this linen forms the background of the

Bayeux tapestry. The Bayeux tapestry is about 20 inches high and 230 feet long.

The exact length of the original tapestry is unknown as the final panel is

incomplete.

The pictures in the scenes depicted show: 623 people 202 horses 55 dogs 506 other birds and animals (some mythical) 49 trees 41 ships 37 buildings 57 Latin inscriptions containing nearly 2000 letters
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DESCRIPTION:

Only three women are shown on the main narrative of the Tapestry. The women

depicted are believed to be Edith, the wife of Edward the Confessor and sister of

King Harold. A Fleeing woman is shown either trapped inside, or fleeing from, aburning building at Hastings. And a woman referred to as 'The Mysterious Lady'

who has been referred to as Aelfgyva, which was a common Saxon name of the

era.

The upper and lower borders of the Bayeux tapestry are filled with mythological

figures, lions, dragons, farming and Hunting and scenes fromAesops fables. The

Aesop Fables on the borders of the Bayeux tapestry have been identified as: The fox and the crow The wolf and the lamb The wolf and the crane The wolf and the kid

The significance of the scenes has been debated and there are views that believe

the themes of deceit, and unlawful possession in the fables have been used as a

vehicle by the English embroiders to express their dissent and horror of the

Norman invasion of Britain.COLOURS USED:

Eight different colours were used in the making of the Bayeux Tapestry Dark blue Blue-green Grey-blue Light green Dark green Tan

Buff

Yellow

The main yarn colours are terracotta or russet, blue-green, dull gold, olive

green, and blue, with small amount

s of dark blue or black and sage green. Later repairs are worked in light
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yellow, orange, and light greens.[5]Laid yarns are couched in place with

yarn of the same or contrasting colour.

WHERE WAS BAYEUX TAPESTRY MADE:

There are two probable places where it is most likely to have been made. The first

is Winchester which was renowned for its needlework. Winchester was an

important city at the time of the Norman invasion with a newly enlarged royal

residence and the royal treasury was also based at Winchester. The second is

Canterbury, famous for its cathedral and it was also known to have a famous

school of tapestry which used a style of work very similar to that found on the

Bayeux tapestry. The plans, designs and scenes for the Bayeux Tapestry wouldhave first been approved by Bishop Odo.

HOW WAS IT MADE:

The Bayeux tapestry was made by nuns who embroidered scenes from the

Norman invasion and the Battle of Hastings on eight linen panels which were

then sewn together. Colored wool was used for the embroidery. Yarn made of the

colored wool was used for the threads that the pictures were embroidered in. The

whole of the Bayeux tapestry was worked in only 2 embroidery stitches called: Laid / Couched Work Stem Stitch

HOW LONG DID IT TAKE TO MAKE:

In March 1067 William the Conqueror returned to Normandy until December 1067.

His half-brother,Bishop Odo of Bayeux, was made Earl of Kent and became

William's Deputy in England in the autumn of 1067. It is probably about this time

that Bishop Odo ordered the creation of the Bayeux tapestry. The Bayeux Tapestry

was first shown at the dedication of Odo's cathedral on July 14,1077. This gives a

period of ten years during which time the Bayeux tapestry was made.
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In popular culture

The tapestry has also inspired modern embroideries, notably theOverlordembroiderycommemorating theNormandy landingsinvasion, nowatPortsmouth; and thePrestonpans Tapestry, which chronicles the events

surrounding theBattle of Prestonpansin 1745.

A number of films have used sections of the tapestry in their openingcredits or closing titles, including: theDisneyfilmBedknobs andBroomsticks, Anthony Mann'sEl Cid, Zeffirelli'sHamlet, FrankCassenti'sLa Chanson de Roland,Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, andRichard Fleischer'sThe Vikings.

COUCHING

Inembroidery,couching and laid work are techniques in whichyarnorother materials are laid across the surface of the groundfabricandfastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn.[1]

The couching threads may be either the same color as the laid threads or acontrasting color. When couching threads contrast with laid threads,patterns may be worked in the couching stitches

Variants

In couching, one or more threads are laid on the fabric surface andsewn to the fabric at regular intervals.

In couched filling, threads are laid on the surface in atrellispatternand sewn to the fabric at the intersections.

In laid work orBayeux stitch, threads are laid side-by-side to fill ashape, then held in place with a thread at right angles to the laidthreads. This crossing thread is then couched to the fabric to hold thelaid threads in place.

In Bokhara couching orBokhara stitch, the couched threads are held

in place with many tiny crossing stitches, which may be aligned fromrow to row to produce patterns.,[6][7]

In Roumanian stitch, long satin stitches are each held in place with asmall diagonal stitch made in the center

In Roumanian couching, bundles of laid threads are held in place withRoumanian stitches
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In Underside couching, a heavy couching thread (historically, a stoutlinen) is brought up from the wrong side of the work, looped over the laidthread, and returned to the wrong side. The couching thread is thengiven a sharp pull which draws a small loop of laid thread through to thewrong side of the fabric. Underside couching has the advantages thatthe couching thread is completely concealed from the front and is notsubject to wear.

Couching

Couched filling

Laid work
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Bokhara couching

Roumanian stitch

Roumanian couching

Underside couching, front (left) and back (right)
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STRAPWORK

In the history of art and design, the term strapwork refers to a stylised

representation inornamentof strips or bands of

curlingleather,parchmentor metal cut into elaborate shapes, with

piercings and often interwoven. Strapwork is a frequent element

ofgrotesquesarabesqueorcandelabrafigures filled with fantastical

creatures, garlands and other elementswhich were a frequent decorative

motif in 16th centuryMannerism, and revived in the 19th century and

which may appear on wallspainted, infrescos, carved in wood, or

molded in plaster orstucco or in graphic work.

Strapwork, decorative motif, in flat relief, consisting variously of interlacedscrollwork, braiding, shield forms, or cross-hatching, often pierced with

circular or oval holes. At times strapwork is bordered with a raised fillet(band). The whole design is usually formed of connected units, all on thesame plane, as though made by an elaborately cut and pierced strap thathas been applied to a flat surface. Strapwork is usually done in wood,metal, or plaster, although stone has been used occasionally, as in theSalzhaus at Frankfurt am Main (late 16th century).Strapwork developed from the flat scrolls common in Islmic metalwork. Itwas used extensively in the 16th and early 17th centuries and was acharacteristic form of Mannerist decoration. In Flanders, the Netherlands,

and Germany, strapwork was most fully developed. In fact, in thearchitectural ornamentation and furniture of the Low Countries, it was oftenthe only type of ornament used. Strapwork was introduced into England inthe late 16th century by Flemish and German woodworkers, and it wasmade popular in 18th-century French decoration by Jean Berain, courtdesigner to Louis XIV.
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awt embroidery

Documents