AVEYRONMAGAZINE

Issue 1Comberoumal

Wines of Aveyron

The Grandmontain priory of Comberoumal

Eastern civilizations practiced monasticism long

before the birth of Jesus Christ. Monasticism

extended throughout Christendom for several

centuries under various forms, but consistently

looking out for isolation and silence with the

ultimate goal of fi nding God through prayer and

meditation.

Étienne de Muret was one of those hermit

monks, a holiness mentor, attracting more fans

than he originally wished for. He was born in

1046 in the region of Auvergne, Massif Cen-

tral, being educated in Italy. He chose to live at

Muret, in the Limousin region, being soon

joined in by scholars, seduced by his

charisma and kindness.

He died in 1124 leaving his successors his

‘Teachings’ as well as a few responsibilities.

One of them was to establish a new order that

was to be called Grandmont. The name got

chosen as the location name of the fi rst

monastery, close to Limoges. Another duty

was to write the rules of this new order, which

was done between 1140 and 1150 mainly

based on the Gospel.Comberoumal

Among these rules, monks were supposed to

have an enclosure with some buildings making

up the ‘Celle’. Construction had to be as simple

as possible, away from homes and villages and

shall be gathering a community of no more

than a dozen hermits. They were supposed not

to have any income, as well as archives to avoid

trial as heretics, but would be welcoming the

poors, and begging would be prohibited unless

in case of absolute necessity.

Comberoumal Comberoumal

This gilded relief sculpture of Saint James the Great decorated the high altar of the abbey church at Grandmont until the French Revolution.Dated circa 1231. (Metropolitan Museum of Art collection)

The reform of the Pope John XXII

In 1295, there were 151 convents. Pope John XXII, a former Grandmontain brought

down the number of monasteries to 39, each having at its head a prior in charge of

one or two monasteries. Grandmont, as the mother home became an abbey headed

by a General Father, thus the order of Grandmont resembled greatly to that of the

Benedictines.

The commendam

The Hundred Years War with England greatly affected the order, but somehow

priories subsisted during this long but agitated period. However another threat came and

was fatal. In 1471, commendam became the universal norm, thus imposed to Grand-

mont forced its decadence. The commendam requested all the income of a priory or

abbey to be given to a secular or a secular priest, who did not have to live on site even

live the life of monks. With absolutely no income, the monasteries were ruined.

The sixteenth century’s religious wars contributed damaging the buildings.

Charles Frémon’s reform

In 1643, the abbot of Grandmont, tentatively reformed the religious. He was looking

at returning to the initial rule known as St. Étienne’s; the strict observance of pov-

erty, humility, silence, and obedience were successfully co-imposed to the monks who

accepted them. Some priories, such as Saint Michel and Comberoumal rallied to this

order renewal. However harsh living conditions discouraged new vocations as well as the

remaining monks. Thus in 1768, only 72 religious men were left of the Grandmontain

Order.Étienne de Muret

1044-1124

Comberoumal

The end and the destruction of the Grandmont Order

In 1765, the archbishop of Toulouse, Loménie de Brienne, proposed to King of France

Louis XV to lobby the Pope regarding a reform of the monastic orders. He was supported by

the bishop of Limoges, Monseigneur du Plessis d’Argentré, who was seduced by

the idea of being able to recover the property of the Abbey of Grandmont located in

his diocese and build a new episcopal palace instead. Despite the desperate resistance of

the last abbot of Grandmont, Mondain de la Maison Rouge, Pope Clement XIV pronounced

the dissolution of the Grandmont order in 1772. He added the number of monks was

quite minimal and the discipline was extinguished. However the bishop of Limoges had to

wait for the death of the last Grandmontain abbot. Thus in 1787 he acquired Grandmont to

sell and destroy an heritage that spanned over seven centuries.

The French Revolution of 1789 definitely carried the memory of that abbey away,

devastating other priories and selling all properties at public auction as National Property.

WINES IN SOUTH WEST FRANCE AND AVEYRON

Antiquity

Romans, who were great colonizers of Provence, the Rhone Valley and the province of Narbonne,

brought along the fi rst vines to be planted in south west France. These Roman conquerors intro-

duced wine rather than beer, as the most important drink according to their civilization.

The clay-limestone slopes of France's southwest are well irrigated, the climate is mild, there are

navigable rivers and soon the wine trade settled at Bordeaux, and Rome along the Roman Empire as

well as Northern Europe.

The Middle Ages

However this wine trade got somehow disturbed by the fall of the Roman Empire, later on picking

up with the extension of the Christianity. During close to three centuries, Toulouse was a stable area

under a Visigoth kingdom. Thus the wine industry continued its expansion, supported by the clergy

which was using the wine for the masses.

Then the Moors and Vikings invaded a few times the region during the eighth century, destroying the

vine industry. They cleared numerous area and maritime commerce became null during these times.

As a result, the vineyard south west experience became reduced to its bare minimum.

Marcillac wine vintner Philippe Teullier

The wines of the High Country

Gradually with stability coming back, the south west vineyards reconstituted them-

selves, experiencing a new phase of prosperity. However, another challenge surfaced,

the growing domination of the port of Bordeaux mastering all

exports whereas south west vintners did not have good ways of transporting, thus

selling their productions.

Bordeaux became the hub, as the port of La Rochelle got closed to exports to

Northern Europe. In 1152 with the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry II of

England, Aquitaine was brought in to the Plantagenet empire and a thriving wine market from

the port of Bordeaux unfolded.

As the largest harbour on the Atlantic coast, Bordeaux had control over the

inputs and outputs of the wines produced in large quantities in the hinterland, along

the Garonne river. These wines were called the wines of the high country and

had quite a good reputation. Furthermore, they were named after the name of the

port sending them; Cahors, Gaillac, Moissac, or directly after the senders’ names.

As examples, wines loaded at the port of Rabastens took the

name of Gaillac wines as they were sent from the Abbey of

Saint-Michel de Gaillac.

Le Castanet—Croix du Mounis,south of Lacaune Mountains.

(Source: CAUE Aveyron)

Semi-troglodytes wine cellars found in the Tarn Valley usingthe same air renewal ancestral technique as found atRoquefort. cheese cellars. (Source: CAUE Aveyron)

Once arrived at Bordeaux, some wines were loaded on long-haul and sold under

different names, likewise the regions of origin of the vessels. Usually, the rest of

the load would be purchased by the merchants of the city, added to their own wines

before exporting the new mixture. This is how a new market of mixing wines developed.

As dealers would be selling Bordeaux wines at the same time, the uniqueness of

the Cahors and Gaillac wines would dissipate.

The south west wines had a period of prosperity up to 1241 when the Bordeaux

winemakers were granted a privilege from the King Henry III of England. This privilege

stated Bordeaux would be able to prohibit the wines of high country entering the

port of Bordeaux before Christmas each year, unless heavily taxed. These significant tax

and customs privileges allowed Bordeaux wines to get a definite advantage, a larger

market share over hinterland’s vintners.

From this point in, Bordeaux improved its wine business altogether, modernizing

production processes thus wine quality, reinvesting profits in the drainage of the

swampy surroundings. During the same time, coffee-houses were all the rage in

England. To meet this new demand such as a better quality of imported wine, Bordeaux

increased the number of wineries, manufactured brand new oak barrels as well as

marketed the now common use of glass bottles and cork.

The south west wines had

a period of prosperity up to

1241 when the Bordeaux

winemakers were granted a

privilege from the King Henry

III of England. This privilege

stated Bordeaux would be

able to prohibit the wines of

high country entering the port

of Bordeaux before Christmas

each year, unless heavily

taxed. These signifi cant tax

and customs privileges

allowed Bordeaux wines to

get a defi nite advantage,

a larger market share over

hinterland’s vintners.

At this point in time, Bordeaux

improved its wine business

altogether, modernizing

production processes thus

wine quality, reinvesting profi ts

in the drainage of the

swampy surroundings.

During the same time, coffee-

houses were all the rage in

England. To meet this new

demand for a better quality

of imported wine Bordeaux

increased the number of

wineries, manufactured brand

new oak barrels as well as

marketed the now common

use of glass bottles and cork.Historical wine barrels as seen at the Aquitaine Museum at Bordeaux

“ Wine in south west France: 50,000 ha“ Wine in south west France: 50,000 ha330 million of bottles produced a year330 million of bottles produced a year

5,000 vintners ”5,000 vintners ”

Mass production

In 1773, Louis XVI ended the Bordeaux privilege. However as different wars unfolded including the French Revolution the

maritime commerce of Bordeaux became scarce. Thus needs to get wines blended got suspended, pushing high country vint-

ners to look for other markets to expand. A new market was booming, the working class was looking for wines at low prices.

More productive grapes got planted, pushing down the overall quality of the newly produced wines in high country.

Phylloxera

The disease phylloxera appeared in the

1860s devastating entire vineyards.

It affected more severely the south west of

France as the majority of the land was de-

voted to viticulture. Back then Bordeaux and

the south west of France was regarded as

the main wine producer in the world.

It took almost a century to the south west to

recover from this dramatic crisis, exacerbat-

ed by the economic decline of the 1880s.

Some growers had the opportunity to replant

their vineyards with American root stocks, as

it seemed the best way to immunize against

the disease. However, doing so was not

an option, as too expensive to many small

vintners.

The Twentieth Century

During the twentieth century, the mass production of table wines al-

lowed the development of large vineyards, with productive vineyards

and the use of fertile areas . The wine production increased whereas

the quality produced decreased, but the table wine—the everyday

wine— was more profitable.

However revival would hatch a new disaster. The massive frost of 1956

destroyed once again a large part of the vineyards. Only the most mo-

tivated and tough vintners decided to replant vines. With enthusiasm,

technical and financial support from Algeria French returnees would

soon the vineyards regain their past credentials.

Following decades of hard work, regional and local high quality wines

received recognition through different labels—AOC or VDQS—as well

as many local ow renown wines such as Bergerac—AOC in 1936—

and Madiran—AOC in 1948—or Cahors—AOC in 1971.

Note: AOC means ‘Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée’ and has been since replaced by the term AOP, ‘Appellation d’Origine Protégée’, Protected Designation of Origin. To receive this PDO status, a wine (or other product) needs to be entirely manufactured—throughout the entire process—in the specific designated region. VDQS means ‘Vin de Qualité Supérieure’, meaning wine of higher quality, a term frequently used to design a wine that might not have received a higher designation yet.

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Côtes de Millau

The Côtes de Millau vineyard dates from Roman times, when Millau as Condatomagus under the Roman Empire, was amajor Gaulish centre of samian pottery production as excava-tions at the site of La Graufesenque unveiled.

During the Middle Ages, vineyards’ production was mainly serving the needs of pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella, as well as the clergy. The wines produced at Compeyre were appreciated by the Popes located at

Avignon at these times, and eighty cellars were existing in Compeyre or nearby. Local aristocracy as well looked atgetting more vineyards around Millau.

When the French Revolution occurred, wines were produced to serve the needs of larger crowds. In the 1870s, thevineyard got under attack of phylloxera. As well, railway brought competitors with cheap wine arriving by train fromneighbouring region Languedoc. Many vineyards acreages got dropped or new varieties introduced. Again, during WWIacreages were abandoned as manpower became scarce.

As a paradox it is the 1956’s frost that would revive themoribund vineyard. The only producers left were the ones very motivated by viticulture. They planted grapes of high quality, rediscovered local varieties and introduced the Syrah variety.A wine cooperative got created and the wine got a newtrademark the Côtes de Millau. In 1994, it became recognized and was awarded the label VDQS—wine of higher quality.

Rosés (25%)Exceptional years: 2000Very great years: 1995 and 1998Great years: 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2009Good years: 2002, 2004, and 2011Average years: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012.

These wines have a beautiful garnet that’s quite supported by purple hues when young. When smelled, the aromatic bou-quet is clean, intense and expressive with good concentration, with some primary notes of red and black fruit with gooseberry, raspberry, prune aromas giving way at times to fruity notes of

brandy, as well as spicy, peppery. As it ages this wine will offer fl oral notes. In the mouth the wine has a soft attack, it gradually unfolds mid-palate on a dense material quite generous and fl eshy, young tannins are fi rm and will need time to skate away. This is a very good wine that matches well with game and

grilled meats. Serving temperature is best at 16 ° C, and can be decanted in a carafe.Area: 65 haAverage yearly production over past fi ve years: 2.000 hl

Reds (70%)Exceptional years: 2000 and 2005Very great years: 1995 and 1998Great years: 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2008, and 2009Good years: 2002, 2004, and 2011Average years: 2006, 2007, 2010, and 2012.

Whites (5%)Exceptional years: 2005Very great years: 2001Great years: 1994, 1995, and 1998Good years: 1997, 1999, 2000, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2011Average years: 2002, 2003, and 2010Below average years: 1996, 2009, and 2012.

AVEYRON WINES

There are four different vineyards in Aveyron: the Côtes de Millau, Estaing, Entraygues and the Fel, and the Marcillac.

Millau Viaduct

Estaing

Located on the banks of the river Lot in Aveyron, the vineyard of Estaing is

one of the smallest in France.

After a long decline, the Estaing wine has rediscovered the acclaim of top

vineyard and strong identity thanks to the Counts of Estaing, local aristocrats,

during the tenth century.

The reds are simple wines, lively and aromatic and well integrated tannins;

they do have a few notes of red fruits and blackcurrant.

The rosés are fresh wines, quite delicate, bright and exhale a fragrant

fi lled with aromas of red berries.

The whites are well-balanced wines, light and lively with fl oral and

honey aromas.

Area: 20 ha

Average yearly production over past fi ve years: 620 hl

Estaing (Source: http://bit.ly/1mhZPwK)

Rosés (20%)Exceptional years: 2000Very great years: 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, and 1998Great years: 1966, 1970, 1971, 1975, 1976, 1978, 1985, 1988, 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2009Very good years: 1973, 1979 1981, 2002, 2004, and 2011Good years: 1983, 1986, 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012Average years: 1967, 1969, 1980, 1984, 1987, and 1993Below average years: 1977, and 1991.

Reds (70%)Year of the century: 2005Exceptional years: 2000Very great years: 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1998, and 2011Great years: 1966, 1970, 1971, 1975, 1976, 1979, 1985, 1988, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, and 2009Very good years: 1978, 1981, 1994, 2002, and 2004Good years: 1983, 1986, 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012Average years: 1967, 1973, 1980, 1984, 1987, and 1993Below average years: 1969, 1977, and 1991.

Whites (10%)Exceptional years: 1998, 1990, and 2005Excellent years: 1983, 1985, and 1989Very great years: 1975, 1976, and 2001Great years: 1966, 1970, 1979, 1981, 1982, 1986, 1994, 1995, 1998, and 2011Very good years: 1971, 1978, 1997, 1999, 2000, 2004, 2006, 2007, and 2008Good years: 1980, 1993, 2002, 2003, 2010, and 2012Average years: 1967, 1973, 1977, 1991, 1992, 1996, and 2009Below average years: 1969, 1984, and 1987.

Estaing

Entraygues-sur-Truyère

Entraygues and the Fel

This little known vineyard has been existing since the Middle Ages. Indeed, the

wines of Entraygues were known in France since at least the 8th century. These wines,

mainly developed by abbeys, such as Conques, were shipped around Eu-

rope especially in England. The vineyard is located north of the Aveyron, the

foothills of Cantal and Aubrac. The vines are planted on valleys of the

Lot and Truyère, on hillsides with steep slopes. They consist of shale and

clay-limestone elements. The main grape varieties for red and rosé wines are

Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chenin and Mauzac for the whites.

Area: 20 ha

Average yearly production over past fi ve years: 640 hl

The red Fel Entraygues has a deep red colour, smells some notes of black

fruits like blackcurrent. When in mouth this wine develops an austere and rustic

aroma of red and black fruits.

The rosé Fel Entraygues appears simple and very fruity, with an overall taste

of pink salmon. When smelled, red fruits such as gooseberry and raspberry

emerge. Once tasted its refreshing liveliness comes alive.

The white Fel Entraygues is quite an interesting wine with a pale yellow colour

and green hues. It has an intense and straight smell but complex with fl oral notes

and honey aromas. When tasted, it is dense, supple and has a beautiful fi nal

aromatic taste left in mouth.

Reds (60%)Exceptional years: 2000, and 2005Very great years: 1970, 1975, 1976, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, 1998, and 2011Great years: 1966, 1979, 1985, 1988, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, and 2009Very good years: 1971, 1978, 1981, 1994, 2002, and 2004Good years: 1967, 1983, 1986, 1992, 2006, 2027, 2008, and 2010Average years: 1969, 1973, 1977, 1980, 1984, 1993, and 2012Below average years: 1987, and 1991.

Rosés (20%)Exceptional years: 2000Very great years: 1970, 1976, 1982, 1989, 1990, 1995, and 1998Great years: 1966, 1971, 1975, 1978, 1981, 1985, 1988, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2009Very good years: 1979, 1994, 2002, 2004, and 2011Good years: 1983, 1986, 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012Average years: 1967, 1969, 1973, 1977, 1980, and 1993Below average years: 1984, 1987, and 1991.

Whites (20%)Exceptional years: 1998, 1990, and 2005Excellent years: 1983, 1985, and 1989Very great years: 1976, and 2001Great years: 1966, 1970, 1971, 1975, 1981, 1982, 1986, 1995, and 1998Very good years: 1978, 1979, 1994, and 1997, 1999, 2000, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2011Good years: 1967, 1980, 1993, 2002, 2003, 2010, and 2012Average years: 1969, 1973, 1984, 1987, 1992, 1996, and 2009Below average years: 1977, and 1991. Entraygues-sur-Truyère

Claivaux d’Aveyron

Marcillac

Marcillac is the largest wine area of

Aveyron. One can fi nd reds and rosés

wines only. They are characterized by the

typical grape Fer Servadou, an emblem-

atic grape vineyard found in south west

France. The vines are planted on very

steep slopes closeby the town of Rodez.

Marcillac red has a deep colour and

violet hues. Its smell is marked by aromas

of red fruits like raspberry, blackcurrant as

well. When smelled a second time spicy

notes are emerging. When tasted this

wine is robust on the palate with some

rusticity, tannins are fi rm but powerful.

Marcillac rosé is not as common as red

but has a beautiful deep pink colour.

When tasted it has a very round texture

of ripe, juicy red fruits, fi nishing on spicy

notes of pepper.

Reds (90%)Year of the century: 2005Exceptional years: 2000Very great years: 1990, 1995, and 1998Great years: 1994, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, and 2009Very good years: 2002, 2004, and 2011Good years: 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2010Average years: 1991, 1993, and 2012

Area: 200 haAverage yearly production overpast fi ve years: 6700 hl

Rosés (10%)Exceptional years: 2000Very great years: 1990, 1995, and 1998Great years: 1996, 1997, 1999, 2001, 2003, 2005, and 2009Very good years: 1994, 2002, 2004, and 2011Good years: 1992, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2010, and 2012Average years: 1993Below average years: 1991

AVEYRONMAGAZINE

published byExperience (my) France

www.ExperienceMyFrance.com