VOLUME 1AVANTE

RICA RICO | FANNY SERRANO | TREND REPORT | AVANT GARDE |PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK S/S 2013

EDITOR’S NOTE02

STAFF AND CONTRIBUTORS

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AVANT GARDE06

FEATURES:DESIGNERS

FASHION, HAIR AND MAKEUP TREND REPORT

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CONTENTS

1

KERMIT TESORO

MICHAEL CINCO

FANNY SERRANO

11

1315

FEATURES:HAIR AND MAKEUP

31HANA PECHON

34HANNA’S TOP 10 AVANT GARDE MAKEUP ESSENTIALS

35JAY WEE

YOUNG BLOOD43RICA RICO

51JOCO COMENDADOR

57MICA GONZALES

FEATURES:SHOP

73OS ACCESSORIES

75PARADIGM SHIFT

76GOLD DOT & PROUDRACE

EVENTS83FIP GRADUATION FASHION SHOW

85BYS COSMETICS LAUNCH

87PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK: FULL COVERAGE

SPOTTED!92

93EDITORIALS

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2337

67

77

Editor’s

Greetings! Welcome to the first issue of AVANTE magazine! Working on this issue, my team and I had the opportunity to interview and shoot different kinds of designers, stylists and makeup artists and what can I say --- there really is no question to the amount of talent and creativity that Filipinos have. In this issue, you will find variety of stories and features about Avant-Garde fashion, specifically in the Philippines. We start the issue with the definition and history of Avant Garde fashion. We then move on to feature up and coming designers Rica Rico, Mica Gonzales and Joco Comendador, where they talk about their inspirations, humble beginnings and their own take on Avant-Garde fashion itself. Designer features also include current top designers in our country, Michael Cinco, Fanny Serrano and Kermit Tesoro to name a few. Aside from fashion design, the magazine also covers makeup and hair styling in this issue, featuring Hanna Pechon, a makeup artist who is an associate of Shu Uemura Philippines, as

she talks about her works and gives us tips and must-haves when doing Avant-Garde makeup! For hairstyling, Jay Wee will give us an idea how he conceptualizes and carries out his work.We move on to the features of OS Accessories, Paradigm Shift, Gold Dot and proudrace, four shops that produce and sell Avant-Garde accessories, clothes and shoes. Let us keep you up to date with the full coverage of the Fashion Institute of the Philippines’ 2012 Graduation Fashion show that took place in Resort’s World! We also covered the BYS cosmetics grand launching here in Manila. Also, do not forget about the most awaited coverage of the country’s most talented designers in the Philippine Fashion Week 2013 Spring/Summer collections. The magazine also contains an editorial section where contributors opinionate about current issues in the industry like Kermit Tesoro and the Catholic church and about the limited number of attendees during PFW 2013.For more updates, you could add us up on Facebook and Twitter (@AVANTEMAG). Have fun reading!

Note

Ciarra del Rosario

3

Glenne Sarcilla is a 21-year-old freelance illustrator and designer, student supervisor at Toonbro Animation Studio and fashion enthusiast. She is currently studying Multimedia Arts at the De La Salle - College of St. Benilde. She dreams of becoming a successful filmmaker and graphic artist someday.

Alaska Trixie is a freelance Multimedia Artist and writer from the US but is currently based in Manila, Philippines. With a deep passion to create from barely anything, her art reflects the weirdness that has brought her to become and artist.

Mark Jano Necesito or Jaro, is a 25-year-old freelance photographer. Who graduated from Asia-Pacific College, with a degree in Multimedia Arts. He also graduated from the Fashion Institute of the Philippines, from where he took fashion photography.www.jaroventures.com

Kristine Bautista is a 28-year-old fashion designer who graduated from the La Salle College International. She is currently a freelance fashion designer and stylist. Her design inspiration comes from H. Naoto, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Christian Lacroix to name a few.

Lou Gatchalian is a 23-year-old professional whose main fields of interest is software programming. With a wide scope of interests including musical influences, graphic animations and fashion, he seeks to visit many places all over the world.

Lester Castor is a software engineer and photography hobbyist. He is a graduate of FEU, taking up Bachelor of Science in Computer Science and is now currently working in Accenture as a Associate Software Engineer.

staff4

Bjorn Bedayo is a 20-year-old fashion photographer, creator of fashion site beyond Manila and taking up Multimedia Arts in Saint Benilde. He has already been featured and has contributed to numerous magazines, broadsheets, and online fashion media sites like Meg, Garage, Chalk, Status, Flique and Manila Bulletin.

Gian Bacuyag is a 26-year-old freelance photographer and toy Collector who graduated from Ateneo de Manila University. He specializes in taking cosplay and fashion portraits of people. Check his portfolio at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gianbac17/

Adrian Gonzales is a 24-year-old freelance photographer who graduated from the prestigious University of the Philippines - Diliman. Among his clients are Look magazine, Sparkling magazine, Chalk magazine, Megastyle.ph and art + commence. His works have also been featured in vogue.it.

Katrina Yap is a freelance photographer who is currently taking up Multi-media arts at the College of Saint Benilde. Her favorite subjects for her photographs are people. Check her photoblog at: http://krinklesnaps.tumblr.com/

Nadine Cabe is a 20-year-old freelance photographer and makeup artist who studies at De Lasalle University. Check her blog ang portfolio at: http://nadinecabe.tumblr.com/

Royce Aldrich Centeno is a freelance photographer and band vocalist who graduated from the Polytechnic University of the Philippines. He has worked with countless celebrities and famous designers, mainly Fanny Serrano, Modupe Omonze, Al Mayassa Couture , Daze Tan, Tom Ford and many more.

contributors

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AVANT GARDEby Alaska Trixie

Portrait of Elizabeth by George Gower

Avant-Garde Fashion is described as being innovative or inventive, but is also known to be unconventional, experimental fashion. During the 1960’s Avant-Garde art and fashion was a controversial subject, but as with any other trend, it was accept-ed through time. However unlike other fashion trends, Avant-Garde has never dis-appeared nor slowly faded away, it has al-ways been present in one form or another.

Avant-Garde Fashion is being wild with color, design, texture, size, and such. It is about pushing beyond boundaries, break-ing the status quo, and culture in general. The more “weird” it is, the more it is to be in this category. It could be as striking, bi-zarre, loud, and/or mysterious and it is not limited to a certain type of fashion prod-uct, it’s versatility is what differentiates it from the rest in the world of fashion. It is impossible to state that Avant Garde is a style of art like others. Though the common misconception of it being too vague, histo-rians have doubted whether it really exists.

The concept mainly focuses on art and cul-ture of France and Italy during the 19th and 20th century, wherein the movement was quickly spreading like wild fire, and honestly speaking, it is a wild fire and will always be a wild fire in the fashion world. However the concept is far from

being transparent, there are just plenty of theories with various interpretations of it.

“The study is historical since it examines the occurrences of avant-garde from the days of Baudelaire to the present. It is especially interesting to explore how the traditional concept of Avant-Garde has changed in the circumstances of mass culture and tech-nical reproduction,” says Irmeli Hautmaki,

The concept if Avant-Garde is closely con-nected with bohemia. Bohemia meant a lifestyle, which artists embraced the sec-ond half of the 10th century in big cities, such as Paris, where they differentiated themselves with the bourgeoisie. It’s im-possible to talk about Avant-Garde with-out mentioning bohemia, due to its strik-ing cultural opposition near the end of the 1800s. The lifestyle implies that culture can be regarded as a third cultural di-mension. The bohemian class was made possible by the rise of modern culture, which opened doors for different kinds of artists, from illustrators to performers.

Since the 1800s, the fashion world of Avant-Garde has basically stayed the same in concept, being indifferent to the usual. Designers allow themselves to create from beyond their imaginations, using the most absurd and unimaginable wearable tex-

AVANT GARDE 7

tiles and making them wearable. Though most pieces are haute couture, it’s none-theless categorized until Avant-Garde.

The largest names in Avant-Garde fashion include John Galliano, Jean Charles de Cas-telbajac, and the late Alexander McQueen who until today all play a part in creating the most sophisticated, sexy, and extrav-agant designs the world has yet to see.Jeremy Scott is a perfect example of a de-signer whose designs capture the essence of what Avant-Garde is. Using striking col-ors, fabrics, and his imagination, his collec-tions target towards the youth who seek to be out of the box. From his raging Swatch designs to his Adidas clothing line, Scott knows no boundaries when it comes to the designs. With celebrities such as Katy Per-ry supporting the movement that Scott ex-presses, the youth has now embraced them-selves into modern Avant-Garde notions.

The future of Avant-Garde cannot be pre-dicted unlike other categories of fashion, designers have yet to conceptualize what they want to do next, how they’re going to execute, and especially how are they going to top their own current wild collections. Though certain designers know their style, they have yet to imagine the twists and turns that they can do with what they know.

AVANT GARDE8

Fashion Trend ReportBy: Kristine Bautista

The Philippine Fashion Week Spring / Summer collections have always been a conglomeration of both senior and up and coming young designers. Among the huge roster of fashion virtuosos, Avant-Garde

pieces are not to be ignored, as these would be the basis for some of the year’s hottest looks and collections. Here are some notable trends that graced the runways for 2013’s Spring / Summer collections.

ROPE PLAYRope detailing made their appearances on designers’ creations in the form of vests, overcoats, embellishments and even full dresses. Something funky and fresh; pieces could be integrated into various occasions, be it street wear, classic or formal looks, a very flexible addition to the Avant-Garde hungry’s wardrobe for the season.

DEFINED SHOULDERSBold shoulder details are making a striking come back on the runways once more. From caplets, to over exaggerated silhouettes and details, designers showcased how these striking points could redefine even the most classic silhouette.

CUTOUTSSexy, chic & delicate, cutouts in every geometric pattern imaginable found their way into this season’s various dresses and gowns, emanating a quirky yet luxurious take onto the classic female summer staples. These peek-a-boo dainties exude the svelte goddess in every woman, and at the same time, amps up her style forwards from the rest of the pack.

TREND REPORT 9

By: Kristine Bautista

SILENT

DARK

EYE CATCHINGThis trend consist of bright shades, mostly neon colors. The eyes are not framed and the lipstick is always bright, playful and in shades of red, pink and orange.

ART CHIC“Art yourself” This trend consists of colorful and big eyelashes. gradients, a mix and match of materials used, and of course, the overall look is very colorful and abstract.

HAIR AND MAKEUP TREND REPORT

ROMANCE This trend has emphasis on bold dark outlines and black lipstick. The overall look is punk influenced and sophisticated at the same time.

BEAUTYThis trend is very tone to tone, very subtle, no black lines. Very blurred and no strong contrasts. Very zen, very pure and very simple.

TREND REPORT10

Kermit TesoroBy: Alaska Trixie

Uprising designer from University of the Philippines - Diliman, Kermit Tesoro leaves fashion week

audience in awe with his detailed, and striking heels that feature carved skulls on each heel all throughout the collection. Along with the current collection, Tesoro uses not so typical material such as mild foam, bent wire, and rubber tubing; he surely knows how to make the most out of the theme that is Avant-Garde.

Gaining inspiration from frustrations in the arts, science, religion, and even his childhood fixations; he uses all of these to his extent. Creating pieces that steer clear of mainstream designs, Tesoro uses some conventional but usually unconventional materials to create each haute couture ensemble. Though his concepts are dark and twisty, he does not keep himself strained in that particular color palette; he often uses light palettes that make his collections ironic and controversial in the minds of fellow fashion appreciators.

Killer Heels

11FEATURES: DESIGNERS

12 FEATURES: DESIGNERS

photocredits: http://ww

w.kerm

ittesoro.com/

photocredits: www.michaelcinco.com

THE MAN WHO NEVER LEFT NEVERLAND

By: Alaska Trixie

Throughout the decades, designers from Europe and America are mostly the ones who are always getting recognized in the fashion world, but in today’s time, designers from Asia like the Philippines, India and the Middle East have proven that they too can shine.

One such designer who has awed the world with his designs, the man who can make a (fashion) dream become a reality, is Dubai-based Filipino designer Michael Cinco. He is one the Philippines’ well known fashion designers; his designs are representations of the wild, creative, beautiful idea he creates. With his out-of-this-world designs, we can surely say that’s a perfect example of what Avant-Garde Fashion is. He goes beyond the norms and breaks his own barriers

Michael Cinco was born on the 27th of August, 1971 in Samar. He took up fine arts in the very prominent University of the Philippines and soon then pursued to continue studying his passion at the SLIMS Fashion Arts School in the Philippines as well. As he got more and more experience, he took internships with esteemed Filipino Fashion designers and then moved to Dubai in 1997. After that, Michael went to Paris and London in 2002 to further study about fashion and the arts at the premier Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design.

With his knowledge in fashion, he headed to Dubai to open his first couture house in 2003.

With his own high-end couture establishment, Cinco designs evening gowns and elaborate bridal outfits for the rich and famous. There he perfected his craft. His success didn’t happen overnight though, this man had a dream, and he made his dream become a reality through hard work, dedication, and passion.

Being named the 2011 Global Fashion Awards Breakthrough Designer of the Year, Cinco has created a brand for himself; with his iconic oversized sunglasses and dominant-black ensembles, and eternal pout. His brand helped him land being featured on the hit TV show America’s Next Top Model hosted by model Tyra Banks.

Other awards that he has won are, People choice award at Dubai Fashion Week 2010, Chosen as a top mover in Dubai in Ahlan Hot 100 and he also received a nomination for Best Designer at the Grazia Style Awards in 2011.

Cinco does not believe in the word ‘impossible’ but loves the word ‘impalpable’ for it means lightweight, intangible; which he believes he is. We would have to agree with that, he is indeed impalpable.

michael cinco

FEATURES: DESIGNERS14

FANNY SERRANO

By: Alaska TrixieMAKING IT BIG

Always caught sketching clothing designs at a young age, the

well-known Fanny Serrano sure had a big surprise in store for him in the future. The Manila native has had the passion for making other beautiful in his blood since he could remember. Serrano got his big break when asked to do makeup for a well-know local celebrity; little did he know that makeup wasn’t where he was going to end.

Mr. Fanny Serrano is not only a fashion designer, but is also a makeup artist/guru, endorser, PICA president, entrepreneur, showbiz personality, and an active Christian member of his church.

His collection for Philippine Fashion Week 2012 sure had a nationalistic feel. With the usage of Piña, Serrano managed to design and create pieces that were elegant, romantic, and enchanting. His use of local fabric was able to aware audiences on how versatile local textiles can be used, clearly not only for nationalistic costumes.

TF still continues to amaze not only in the fashion world, but also in the beauty world. Being the iconic icon that he is, Serrano is living proof that with hard work, passion, and creativity, Avant-Garde is meanly just another word in an idiom dictionary.

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Photographed by Royce CentenoModel: Ria Bolivar

Stylist by Domz RamosShoes by Joco Commendador

Hair & Makeup by Fanny Tf SerranoAssist by Laurence Leuterio

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FASHION EDITORIAL

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VAGABONDS AND

clowns

Photography: Bjorn ManilaStyling: Gelo Arucan Associate

Stylist: Darren Apolonio

Models: Rommelle Bungay of YEOH Models Pedro Mologni of IM

Fashion: Chow Resureccion Melville Sy Banggo Niu Diane KatigbakDannavie Chanyongco Vina Lorenza Mary Reyes Tina Carillo Mitch Biñas

FASHION EDITORIAL 25

FASHION EDITORIAL30

HANNAPECHON

Hanna Maria Mae Pechon is a 28 year old makeup artist and one of the Associates of Shu Uemura Philippines. She is also an instructor at the Make-up Design Academy and Make-up Secrets School. She has been a makeup artist since 2009 and her works range from bridal makeup to Avant-Garde. She has already worked with countless celebrities such as, Isabela Roces, Joey Mead, Danica magpantay, Sitti, General Luna, 1:43, Rachelle Ann Go, Bryan Termulo, LJ Reyes and Robi Domingo to name a few, and her works have been featured in several top newspapers and magazines in the country like MEGA magazine and Manila Bulletin.

By: Kristine BautistaPhoto credits: be.net/hannapechon

Where did your love for Avant-Garde makeup start? Any inspirations? Role models?My love for avant-garde make-up started in 2006, when I met Randy Capinpin who was also just starting to be a photographer. He influenced me with his Gothic and playful concepts at that time, and with his evolved ones until now. Same with Red Mil who never fails to share his dark, twisted but sophisticated ideas. Another inspiration and role model for me is Mr. Shu Uemura who popularized Avant-garde make-up in the 1960’s which he called Mode make-up. I like how he creates balance and understanding through make-up. Also, nature keeps on inspiring me. It has a wide range of elements that is yet to be discovered by me.

For you, What are the most important items in your makeup kit?Everything is important!

What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? Doing PR. You have to help yourself in selling your skill or talent. It’s one way to get more work and be known in this industry.

How do you conceptualize the makeup that you will be doing on a certain project?Pegs or references are usually given. But others will let you decide and create your own depending on the client’s interest.

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What is best project you have been in so far? Please tell us why. The best project I did was the “Empty Vase” last January, 2010. I got really inspired when I saw the YSL cage heels while browsing the net. Even though it is only for my personal portfolio, I am challenged of outdoing it.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years?I am still doing make-up for sure. Getting more clients and more out-of-town / country travels.

Any advice for people who want to start a career doing Avant Garde makeup? One must understand and know first the basics before doing avant-garde make-up. For me, it must be able to portray your idea.

You can contact Hanna through the following:

Website:Bridal: hannapechon.portfoliobox.netFashion: be.net/hannapechonPublicized: hannapechon.blogspot.com

Contact number: +63917 507 9564Email address: hannapechon@gmail.com

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“For me, an achievement is

when I am booked for work in a

month and have only a day or two

for rest.”

Black and White cream/gel product. You can forget everything and still get away with just these two Pressed eyeshadows and painting

liners from Shu Uemura for real boldness and vividness of color

False eyelashes. I wasn’t a fan of this before but this helps to add drama on the eye area

Foundation. To even out or contrast skin tone

Concealers. Instant eraser not only for blemishes but also for the lips and eyebrows

Glue stick. For a slight

prosthetic effect

Contour powder. Good for re-shaping the face

Different AccesoriesBeads, feathers, paper, etc. as focal point of your make-up

Other medium. Like paint, water, oil, etc. for highlighting or not

Lipstick shades. Sometimes you don’t need these anymore

Hanna’s Avant Garde

MAKEUP ESSENTIALS

34 FEATURES: HAIR AND MAKEUP

Jay Wee is a 26 year old freelance hairstylist who has worked with countless industry talents such as Maja Salvador, Sarah Geronimo, Anne Curtis and many more.

by Kristine Bautista

Where did your love for Avant-Garde hairstyling start? Any inspirations? Role models?I think when i took fashion design and the exposure to art, both classic and modern, that came with it. I’ve always adored the works of hairstylists Guido Palau and Orlando Pita.

For you, What are the most important items that you always bring when doing styling?A good set of tail combs, pins, elastics and hairspray can make wonders!

What has been the biggest challenge in your career so far? I guess the biggest challenge not only in my career but in any artists’ career is to always deliver and bring something new to the table especially in this cut throat industry where you’re only as good as your last work.

Define Avant-Garde.Fashion forward. A new silhouette or technique is what makes a hairstyle Avante-Garde. Crazy big hair isn’t always high fashion, sometimes it can also be something tight and sleek.

How do you conceptualize the hairstyle that you will be doing on a certain project?It’s a collaborative process, I have to consult with make-up and styling as well as lighting and photography to know what

hairstyle to do; also I check hair trends (cuts, colors, textures, silhouettes) every season in runway shows.

What is the best project you have been in so far? Please tell us why. I only get to play and do Avant-Garde hairstyles in fashion and beauty editorials for magazines, I’ve done quite a number this year and there are a couple more that’s coming out before the year ends that I’m excited about. A photoshoot to me is like a graffiti wall where you get freedom to do your own thing artistically so each editorial I do always excites me.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years?I dream to get to contribute for Vogue Italia and Korea, maybe get to travel and work with Guido Palau and Coco Rocha or Karlie Kloss!

Any advice for people who want to start a career doing Avant-Garde hairstyling?Practice, even if you think you can do anything. Never Give Up, even if it gets frustrating.

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You can contact Jay through the following:Website:www.hairbyjaywee.carbonmade.comTwitter/Instagram: @jayweeeee FB: Jay Wee

Contact number: 0917-794-5933

Photo credits:hairbyjaywee.carbonmadecom JAY WEE

photocredits: http://hairbyjaywee.carbonmade.com/

Photography by Jaro Necesito Makeup by Jeanine Victoria

Hair by Cherie NecesitoAccessories by Jaro Necesito

Designs by Janelle Ng Jeanine Victoria and

Jaro Necessito

Models: Leny Aguilar

MarQ Porciuncula

PLAYGROUND OF THE MACHINA

ON LEATHER AND FUR

Rica Rico is a 22-year-old fashion designer and stylist. Her designs have already been featured at different magazines and newspapers, from MEGA to Manila Bulletin. She has just graduated from De La Salle college of Saint Benilde with a fashion design degree and is now handling three different businesses at once. She is best known for her Avant-Garde designs with leather and fur.

by Glenne Sarcilla

Modeled by Nikolette CuaPhotography by Ciarra Del Rosario

RICA RICO

YOUNG BLOOD46

Who would you like to work with in the future if given a chance?Definitely Divine Lee, gusto ko siyang damitan! For a collaboration, Jerome Silaya Ang… more on edgy fashion designers. I really think it’s better if you both are doing different things, because if you’re both designing the same thing, there may be a clash in the ideas, etc.

What are your future design plans? Well actually, at my last trip to Hong Kong, I found a store that was selling authentic fur and skins. So my future designs will be more on that. Animal prints, fur…

If someone were to follow in your footsteps, what advice would you give them?Go lang ng go. As in go lang talaga ng go. (laughs)

You can contact Rica through the following:

Email: ricarico@facebook.comWebsite: www.ricaricodesigns.com

Store links:

Terzettohttp://www.facebook.com/terzettoPH/http://www.terzetto.com.ph/

Lashes Lens and Linenshttp://www.facebook.com/LALELIMANILA

How did you get into fashion?Actually when I was a kid I was already very fond of it, both my mom and dad are very fashionable. My dad is a lawyer and he picks his suits…and socks (laughs). So while growing up I loved it. But what really made me decide to take this course was during high school prom. I wanted to design my dress and I did, I also looked for the materials for the dress. At that event, I won best dress. And then I realized it was really fun doing it, and then I discovered that there was actually a fashion course so I decided on that, though surprisingly, because for the longest time I wanted to be a lawyer (laughs)

What/Who are your inspirations?My first inspiration is my mom, because I really saw that when you dress up, people really look up to you. As for my style icons I really like the way the Olsen Twins, Rachel Zoe, etc. dress. As for fashion designer, I really look up to Alexander McQueen! His creations are very show; even if we really don’t have the same design aesthetic, if it’s his work it just…wow.

What aspects of fashion creation do you focus on the most?Right now, I’m into leather and fur. Though my aesthetic in general evolves over time. I used to do a lot of chiffons, girly stuff, and then it evolved into leather, etc.

Describe your design processActually mine is pretty weird. (Laughs) Usually people make mood boards or pattern, but mine is fabric/

cloth. I usually go to Divisoria/fabric stores and feel the material. When I see a really good fabric, that’s when I formulate a design. I like getting the feel of the materials before I start doing a design. As for my design philosophy, as long as it looks good on you and keri mo, fashion freedom talaga! I really like gutsy people. The weirder the better!

What do you consider when designing a piece? Usually it’s usually what the client wants. Usually clients are picky so you know. (Laughs) But if there is no client, I want the piece to be fierce. I want it to have a little oomph! Like taking for example a basic jacket. I want it to have something that sets it apart and my style will be recognized.

People say your work is Avant-Garde, do you agree? Why or why not?Hmmm well I do admit that it is out of the box, but I don’t really focus doing Avant-Garde, siyempre kailangan bumenta di ba! (Laughs) But when I make a design, I want to push it more.

What is Avant-Garde for you?Avant-Garde for me it’s really an art. Its really self-expression of the designer, that when you look at the piece, it really tells a story.

For you, what is your best achievement so far?The MEGA’s top ten new designers to look out for and this October, I’ll be featured there as “new kids on the block” section.

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JOCO COMENDADOR

Have you ever wondered what Lady Gaga and Joco Comendador have in common? They all have killer shoes. The difference? Joco Comendador makes them.

Joco Comendador is a 22-year-old export management student at the De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde. Besides his schooling is his blooming career in shoe business. We got the chance to interview Joco about his lifestyle and humble beginnings, and of course, his awesome shoes.

shoes of the future

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by Glenne Sarcilla

Photography: Bjorn ManilaStyling: Darren Apolonio

Hair and Makeup: Anton PatduModel: Julian Cechinel

Assisted by: Mike GellaFashion: Vina Romero

Where did your love to create footwear come from?My love to create footwear started last year. This was the time Kermit Tesoro was famous with his “heel-less shoes” then I started to have this fascination with these shoes but then I found out that it costs about Php40, 000 and I think for a pair of shoes it’s not a joke (laughs). Then I had this school project…to cut it short I found a way to make a pair of shoes that time. When it comes to my inspirations, Lady Gaga, pop culture…actually it’s really pretty random!

Where did you start your career? Can you tell us more about your background?It was last year. Actually at first I didn’t treat it as a career because originally I just wanted to make my own pair of shoes. But then one thing led to another, it was featured in Fashion week spring/summer by Enrico Carado then after that it just clicked, the orders just started. As for my background, I’m an export management student; I have no background in fashion. The only thing I know about fashion is magazines, art, Internet, etc. Nahiligan ko lang talaga.

Your designs are usually high heeled. Can you explain to us why that is?To be able to stand out, you need to do something different. Sometimes people tell me “Joco why not make something wearable?” then I tell them, “why not buy it at the department store? I mean, why need to tell me I need to make my shoes this way?” I mean you know, walang basagan ng trip. (Laughs)

What is Avant Garde design to you?Basically it’s being fashion forward, out of the box and…something…weird.

When you started your own line, what was the most difficult part of getting your designs out into the industry?Difficult part? Well…explaining that it’s “wearable.” People sometimes cannot distinguish the word wearable from functional. My shoes cannot function as “everyday shoes” but you can wear it in an event, it is definitely wearable. I think that’s the only problem I had to market my shoes.

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What do you think are the pros and cons of being a footwear designer?Technology. Here in the Philippines, making shoes is more on the manual labor. That’s why the footwear industry here is very weak. The reason why we are getting defeated by china is because they use machines.

How much would one of your shoes typically cost?It varies, but like the Valkyrie shoe, it costs aboutPhp7, 500.

In the future if you would collaborate with anyone, who would it be? Why?Definitely Jeremy Scott from Adidas! Right now I have this weird fascination with rubber shoes. Also Christian Louis Vuitton…. I also love her philosophy… “I don’t design shoes that women want, I design shoes that men want on a woman.”

What was the first thing you ever designed?I had this school project that was made up of Water lily leatherette. The design is similarly close to Kermit Tesoro’s shoes.

What is your motto? Do you have any advice or tips for any one wanting to follow in your footsteps?Love what you do. I mean really, people actually ask me how I balance school, my shoe business and everything else. Well I can, simple because I love what I’m doing

You can contact Joco through the following:+09155831902 (globe)Shop/Portfolio: jococomendador.tumblr.comFACEBOOK: facebook.com/jocoshoes

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Mica Gonzales is a 20 year old fashion design student from the College of Saint Benilde. In this interview, she tells us more about herself, her designs and her inspirations.

How did you get into fashion?My love for fashion started when I was a kid. Ever since then, I always was fascinated with awesomely designed clothes and I get inspired. Especially when the designs are intricate and detailed.

What (or who) are your inspirations?For designers, MARCHESA! (Georgina Chapman) and Alexander McQueen. For everyday inspirations I get inspiration from sweet, pastel-like and cute things!

Define Avant Garde.It’s not something you see everyday. Something new.Something out of the box.

Can you tell us more about the pieces you designed?The pieces I designed here are based on a theme, I interpreted it based on that. For the dark leather dress, the theme is “glam rock.” For the nude, light one, the theme was “immortals” so I chose a “fairy,” themed one. Something soft.For the pink plastic one, the theme was “futuristic.”

What do you consider when designing a piece? The function, if it will flatter the body, and if it will fit in my style.

How do you first visualize your designs? What’s your first step?Well I first look at magazines to get inspired, then gather pegs then research. That’s where i get design inspiration from.

MICA GONZALES

By Glenne Sarcilla

58 YOUNG BLOOD

Photography by Gian BacuyagHair by Lester CastorMakeup by Ciarra Del RosarioModeled by Kristell Lim

Photography by Lester CastorMakeup by Ciarra Del RosarioModeled by Eena ParreñasAssisted by Mark Ruperto

Where did your love for Avant-Garde makeup start? Any inspirations? Role models? I used to paint a lot and when I entered college, I got really intimidated on how good my other classmates are. So, I looked for a different media to release my creatives skills with and that I’d be good at it. So I went to makeup. Beauty became my passion. So I mixed both art and beauty together and create unusual looks. Basically just me playing with makeup (like painting).

FWhat are the most important items in your makeup kit? Everything is important in my Kit. I literally cannot state a top 3 because I’ll need a lot for different kinds of looks. I like being prepared so I bring everything. Skin Care, Makeup Remover, Foundation, Highlight and Contouring palette, Eyeshadows/

Eyeliner/Eyebrow , lipsticks, Blushes, False eyelashes.

How do you conceptualize the makeup that you will be doing on a certain project?I ask the photographer first or the stylist on what kind of look they want. I base it on their design. If they don’t have a “peg” for it, then I look at the clothes or the theme that they want. If it’s a beauty shot, and it’s my choice to do whatever I want, then I would just play around with makeup.

What is best project you have been in so far? I don’t have a favorite one of my works, but the recent one I’m very pleased with. (The pictures used for this article) Because It was my first time working with the model, Iya, and we’ve become good friends.

TEENA ARCHES

Christina Rose Arches is a 20 fashion design management student at the De Lasalle College of Saint Benilde.

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Photography by Katrina YapMakeup by Teena Arches

Model: Iya aka Missplpify

Co-photographer & lighting assistants

Henri VillegasYsa Lavadia

What is your greatest achievement so far? I’ve worked with a lot of talented people that I know will be the future of the fashion industry. Every happy client or photographer that I work with is also a good achievement for me.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years? I see myself graduated from a legit special effects school in Hollywood. and going back here in the Philippines to have my own makeup studio, teaching classes and working in the industry.

“AVANT GARDE FOR ME IS ABSTRACT ART.”

SMOKE AND

MIRRORSPhotography by Adrian Gonzales

Styling by Jeff GalangHair by Jandra Babiera

Makeup by Mannix Arboleda CaranchoProduction Design by Nadine Cabe and Ciarra Del Rosario

Lighting Assistant: JR Sala of M StudiosShoot Assistant: Krystle Arellano

Model: Sam Ajdani of PMAP

67FASHION EDITORIAL

Silver metallic vest and suit jacket by Ronan OpiñaOff-white suit pants by Gil MacaibayBlack leather lace-up boots by Nereku

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White buttondown shirt by Gil MacaibaySilver metallic shorts by Dave OcampoBlack lace-up shoes by NerekuBlack bowtie by The Ramp

Off-white vest by Gil MacaibayNavy plaid suit pants by Ronan OpiñaBlack leather lace-up boots by Nereku

White buttondown shirt, off-white suit jacket, off-white vest, off-white suit pants, and gray panelled cummerband,

OS A company founded by three friends Paul Jatayna, Kat Medina, and AJ Omandac whose goal is to create handcrafted accessories inspired by bones. Each collection tells a different story; with each creation the story unfolds, one by one, you will see that each piece completes the puzzle of a tragic story.

Debuting their latest collection Vol. 3, OS decides to break out of their comfort zone (the bone) and decides to test the water. Now with a greater variety of sizes, texture, and color, OS takes inspiration from aquatic animals. However this collection does not praise the good of the waters but how it is being overlooked and abused. All 30 pieces are (a bit) absurd, alien athletic, but nonetheless keep them up to their brand, which creates amazing, adventuresome accessories.

AVANTE magazine got a chance to interview Paul at the PLATFORM: Round 2 event at the Ronac art center to talk about his creations.

accessories

73SHOP FEATURES

Story by Glenne SarcillaPhotographed by Ciarra Del Rosario

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AVANTE: So why ‘OS’ Accessories?Paul: Well simply because ‘OS’ is a Latin term for ‘bone.’ It all started when we went to Baguio one time and we saw a bone necklace that was really beautiful. So we wanted to make some-thing that we could reproduce so we used poly-urethane material for the pieces.

AVANTE: Do you make each piece?Paul: The first ones yes we did, but now we have manpower to do our pieces. Everything from first to last is really hand made so we re-ally can’t make each one by ourselves.

AVANTE: How did you market the brand why it’s so well known today?Paul: Internationally, it became known because we were first blogged by Trendphile. Eventually a Taiwanese store named “SCREAMING” picked up our accessories. We made them our distrib-utors then eventually a store in Japan contacted us, then Australia, etc.

AVANTE: Can you say that OS is Avante Garde?Paul: Locally yes! It is very Avant Garde. The market here and international are very differ-ent. In the markets of Taiwan and Japan, they don’t even consider it Avant Garde at all. It real-ly depends on the market you’re selling to. The market here in the Philippines is mostly very traditional and simple.

AVANTE: So what’s next for OS?Paul: We’re planning to do metal and we’re plan-ning to do a high-end line. (silver-ish, gold-ish) Then we’re planning to make an apparel line. So stay tuned for that!

ParadigmShift

Created through a mutual dream, Paradigm Shift offers a clothing line that is designed

with detail that challenges the audience to wear what they think isn’t socially acceptable.

These Avant-Garde pieces have a hipster feel of their own, unlike most Avant-Garde pieces that are couture, PS offers pieces that can be worn on a “regular day.” Each collection is ironic, it’s familiar and unfamiliar, and it’s makes you want to go “Oh my Glob” and “What” at the same time.

Paradigm Shift leans towards the exaggeration, dissymmetry, and imbalance of clothing experiences. They are basically Lady Gaga, but wearable. Believing that staying in the box is a norm, PS goes beyond and continues to express and show pride in their weirdness.

Photo credits: http://www.paradigmshiftclothing.com

by Glenne Sarcilla

Gold DotFounded in July of 2012, GD has gone far and beyond

in the shoe design industry. Offering unique statement footwear, bags and jewelry, GD sure knows how to get girls drool over their products.

With the creations being limited, items aren’t to be seen on the streets as other brands. Also, Gold Dot is more than proud to share with their customers that all of their footwear and bags are made in the Philippines!

Numerous fashion bloggers such as Jershel Co, Rovia Pearl Ancajas, and Gilyanne Blancaflor are proud owners of Gold Dot footwear who encourage their readers to check their online store and see that fashion does not have to be painful.

Their form of Avant-Garde products clearly aims toward the female. With an incurable love for shoes, GD’s prices will make you go gaga without crying because of the could-be-hole in your pocket.

PROUDRACEThe Manila based duo though from different

backgrounds have the same goal, to produce collections that are eclectic, youthful, and modern, but always with a twist. With each design, you can’t help but look twice, sometimes even thrice. With the ‘90s as a constant inspiration, Proudrace is definitely style mindset is definitely stuck in the right generation.

The collections are a representation of both designers as a duo and as individuals; they believe that it’s about how one uses different materials, textures, and details in each piece. All pieces are unique and never seem to subscribe to any current trend, Proudrace creates pieces that are minimal and hand made, clearly giving you an item that no one else has.

Proudrace is currently standing in their winning circle with an amazing fall winter 2012 - 2013 collection that is forward, raw, and minimalist. This is a collection that id definitely wearable.

by Alaska Trixie

photocredits: www.golddot.com.ph | www.proudrace.com

by Alaska Trixie

76 SHOP FEATURES

C E L ES T I A LP A R A D E

Photography by Jaro NecesitoMakeup by Jeanine VictoriaModeled by Gael de Leon

Clothes & headdress: Ivond NoriegaShoes: Mikee Andrei

Clothes: May FornanHeaddress: Ivond Noriega

Earrings: Model’s Own

Clothes: Janel NgHeaddress: Ivond NoriegaShoes: Mikee AndreiNecklace: Model’s Own

83EVENTS

By: Kristine Bautista

There were 33 designers that featured their collection: Adam Balasa, Adrian Sahagun, Aia Saturnino, Almira Cris, Aya Ayalin, Drei Soriano, Clarisse Raborar, Connie Ancheta, Bryan Peralta, Emir Yamomoto, Eva Revilloza, Gareth Ampil, Gem Velasco, Genebee Gervacio, Geno Velasco, Glacy Ricablanca, Jackie Clemente, James Imperial, Jiezl Sunga, Kim Edison, Jon Maderazo, Joy Chicano, Joyce De Guzman, Jinggay Serag, Kristia De Leon, Lesley Nubla, Lloyd Luxie Gumba, Love Sioco, Marian Zara, Russel Cuevas, Stephanie Cudal, Tessa Leann, and Yeye Panteleon.The first place winners were Emir Yamamoto and Joy Chicano who also received the FADAL award. Second place goes to Adrian Sahagun, and the third Place winner is Brian Peralta, who also won Best in Garment Construction. Glacy Ricablanca won the best in Fashion Illustration Award and Jinggay Serag won the best in Techniques Award.

GRADUATIONFIP

FASHION SHOW

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They say that make-up is a woman’s best friend. Knowing what to put on ones’ self can make a woman a step ahead from the rest. Knowing what brand to use is another thing. BYS, a makeup brand based in Australia, launched last October 3 at the Makati Shangri La Hotel with guests from SM Watsons, fashionistas, bloggers, press, stylists, trendsetters and fashion enthusiasts.

If you’re looking for a brand that is innovative, has good quality and good value for your money, then BYS cosmetics is the brand you are

looking for. It is known to have a wide selection of makeup, with more than a thousand different products, BYS is one of the largest and most on-trend cosmetics brand worldwide.

The theme for the launching party is “Re-defining beauty.” Before the runway show started, Michael Burgeois, a design consultant for different international brands such as Topshop and Dorothy Perkins, exclusively flew in from Paris to present and discuss the upcoming makeup trends for 2013. The runway

85EVENTS

BYSCOSMETICSLAUNCHING

By: Glenne Sarcilla

show consisted of twenty models with makeup done by Elaine de Silva and Carell Garcia with the use of BYS Cosmetics, to show their wide range of products, unique colors and versatility when it comes to makeup.

BYS Cosmetics is designed and developed in Melbourne. BYS is available in different countries such as France, UK, Japan and now, the Philippines! It has adhered to the most rigid European and Japanese quality standards and with over 1000 products available, it continues to grow and offer more beauty products for fashionistas in need of amplifying their beauty even more!

Product lines to watch out for:

BYS Minerals Naturale: 100% made up of minerals, perfect for girls who

86 EVENTS

have sensitive and oily skin. This has no chemical, dye, preservative, nor talc!

BYS upcoming nail polish line: With over 300 unique and plain hues, BYS has it all! They have Cracked, Quake, UV, Mood, Scented and even Glow in The Dark Polish!BYS upcoming false eyelashes line: The line will have over 50 designs! Perfectly reusable, latex-free and easy to wear! BYS is set to open 13 outlets in Metro Manila in key locations by the end of September 2013.

There were a total of 4 makeup themes showcased:

Well-Being: Simple and Natural, Antic Robots and Rebels: Dark-Themed, Luminous Years: Gold and Sophisticated and Extreme: Neon Action!

by: Lou Gatchalian | Photographed by Nadine Cabe

The Christmas season is fast ap-proaching and the year is quickly reaching its last few weeks. How-ever, Filipino designers, brands, and artists are gearing up for the biggest and longest-running showcase of Philippine fashion. Held last 23rd to 29th of October this year, the Philippine Fashion Week Spring Summer 2013 exhib-ited creations that gave color to the runways of SMX Convention Center, SM Mall of Asia, and the SM Mall of Asia Arena.The event was produced by Joey A. Espino, Jr. and Audie J.P. Espino of Runway Productions, in cooper-ation with FilFashion Innovators Incorporated, Cal Carrie’s Inter-national Models Philippines, and Master School for Models.

Day 1: Supermodels, Makeups, and OPM ClassicsHopeful applicants numbering at more than a hundred became part of the recently launched search for the newest Philippine’s super-models. Out of all the applicants, 17 were chosen for the Supermod-el Philippines 2012 Finals Night: 10 female and 7 male finalists. Catherine Haduca and Felix Tiom-ico won the Photogenic Award at the Finals Night, while the Final Six were announced: Krizzaleen Valencia, Randy Cailes, Zandra Sta. Maria, Jeremiah Manalang, Gerard Go, and May Ann Nagu-it. Out of the six, Manalang and Sta. Maria were named the EsAc runway winners, while Naguit and Go were declared as the winner of

Supermodel Philippines 2012.L’Oreal Paris presented a back-to-back collection of Albert Andrada and Ezra Santos. Together with the makeup creations by L’Oreal Paris Philippines’ Cristine Duque, Andrada and Santos dazzled ev-eryone with their seascape an-thology filled with seafoam tones, crystalline embellishments, and cascading flounces.With Mint celebrating their tenth year as a Filipino retail brand, their debut on the Philippine Fashion Week was nothing short of booming. Together with their new endorsers Gerald Anderson, Sam Pinto, and Xian Lim, Mint displayed their OPM shirts on the runway to match the OPM classics.

A Week of Filipino Fashion FULL COVERAGE OF THE PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK

SPRING/SUMMER 2013

EVENTSDay 2: Gadgets, Colors, and RomanceThe latest gadgets from SONY made their appearance on the runway, opening the show. The VAIO Duo 11 Ultrabook™ and the VAIO Tap 20 tablet PC gave the crowd a preview of the future of mobile gadgets. Dax Bayani then flooded the runway with his neon swimwear collection, followed by Lizanne Cua and her wearable jersey ensemble. Melchor Guin-to came next with sleek, tailored series succeeded by the tribal-es-que army collection of Russell Vil-lafuerte. Sassa Jimenez and her playful print-on-print concluded the runway show.

A showcase of merging concepts, styles, and philosophies seem to be the target of SM Men’s Fashion as top designers collaborated to show diversity on their menswear retail. Hideo Muraoka’s collection of leather and spikes releases an aura befitting a rock star or a KPop idol. A dance presenta-tion helped transition from Mu-raoka’s dark collection to Louis Claparols’ military-inspired color wheel explosion for Markus. Ivar-luski Aseron’s resort wear collec-tion for Coco Republic contrasted Claparols’ collection due to its neutral color palette. Following is Rajo Laurel’s color blockings and spectacles for his set for Wharton. Rhett Eala played with beads and sleek tailoring for his set for Main Street, followed by Frederick Per-alta’s set of playful combinations for Michel Andre. Randy Ortiz’s set for Uberto Duranti was the fina-le, featuring the sophistication of high collars and figure-hugging suits.

Spring and summer is lacking without its healthy dose of ro-mance. This was the inspiration of

the next set of designers for their collections. Gerry Katigbak opened the show, transitioning from light pieces of tunics to softer greys before moving to black swim-wear. Jun Jun Cambe followed up with his unique aesthetics, polka dots, and voluminous ball gown pieces. Michelle Lim’s collection was feminine: lace attires, dress-es, and lingerie-inspired outfits. EsAc closed the show, with Raoul Ramirez’ gray womenswear col-lection, Lyle Ibañez’ abstract pat-terns on light dresses, and Audie-AE’s voluminous skirts in jewel.

Day 3: Bags and Shoes, Musical Fashion, and EyewearSM Shoes and Bags definitely offered variety in their pieces to suit every occasion. The models of Salvatore Man donned sleek suits and leather loafers. Milanos Shoes showed their easy-to-wear boat shoes and rucksacks. Parisian im-pressed with their dresses, laces, corsets, and accessories. Howev-er, the kids of Tough Kids Shoes and Sugar Shoes stole the show for their pairs that represent ev-ery playful occasion for little boys and girls.

Lee Cooper’s debut was a fusion of music and fashion. A roller-blade exhibition by the Philippine All Stars opened the show, after which models and celebrities such as Victor Basa, Divine Lee, and Patrick Garcia invaded the runway while musicians Geneva Cruz, Ra-chel Alejandro, Kris Lawrence, and Bamboo sing popular Brit songs.

Ideal Vision showcased their top international eyewear brands, Bebe, Calvin Klein, Givenchy, Po-lice, and Michael Kors to name a few. After Ideal Vision’s inter-national collection, Eric delos Santos displayed a collection of feminine looks filled with tan-

gerine and jewel tones. After him, Raoul Ramirez followed with a resort-like collection: sorbets, capes, bikinis, and prints. Roland Lirio presented a collection of ath-letic wear, focusing on symmetri-cal angles and varying lengths. Closing the show was Vania Ro-moff with “sprezzatura” (“a cer-tain nonchalance” and “practiced naturalness”) presented into clas-sic sophisticated looks focusing on structure and silhouette.

Day 4: Sophistication, Spec-trums, and The NightCary Santiago returns to the run-ways of Philippine Fashion Week to showcase his sophisticated and classy collection: from structured fabrics to soft dresses with em-broideries. After travelling from Beirut, to Dubai, and to Paris, and studying his unique class of cou-ture, Cary Santiago has proven that he is one of the country’s top fashion designers.

A huge collection by designers Anthony Ramirez, Aztec Barba, Harley Ruedas, Chris Diaz, John Paras, Joyce Pilarsky, Martin Bautista, Noel Crisostomo, Ju-lius Tarog, Popoy Barba, Ronaldo Arnalo Tina Daniac, Roel Rosal, Simon Ariel Vasquez, and Veejay Floresca showed a wide array of choices. From John Paras and Ju-lis Tarog’s white pieces to Popoy Barba and Roel Rosal’s techni-color ensembles, the Luxe Wear Spring Summer 2013 was like a light’s spectrum. Different styles, different fashion languages, one message: the coming season will be fun and exciting.

Lee Jeans presented their lat-est collection Night Skins along the finalists for Lee Style Army, with host Marc Nelson and guest model Andi Eigenmann. Vince

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Crisostomo of University of San-to Tomas bagged the Best Stylist award, Matthew Lee of Ateneo de Manila University for Best Pho-tographer, Vaughn Pinpin of Uni-versity of the Philippines for Best Multimedia Designer, Jem Borces of University of San Carlos – Cebu for Best Designer, Andrew of de la Salle College of St. Benilde for Best Male Model, and Francesca of Ateneo de Manila University for Best Female Model. Team Club Rats took home the grand prize and US$2,500.

Day 5: Cuteness, Glamour, Freedom, and IntricacyWhile the SM Kids’ Fashion in-creased the cuteness level of the event, they also showcased their pieces for infants, toddlers, tweens, and teenagers. Infants and toddlers, cradled by their mothers, wore button-downs with plaids for boys and fluffy tutus for girls. Young boys wore colorful preppy outfits, while young girls wore ruffled skirts. Teen boys showed their coats and jackets, and closed with dresses for teen girls.

Anne Curtis was a guest perform-er for Bench as they showed their collection on the runway. She walked the runway wearing a ruf-fled dress with a studded neck-line for Sweet Heart. Male models grabbed the crowd’s attention with their sleek and stylish suits. Anne once again took the runway with a glamorous winged dress for her Glamorous scent. Closing the show was Anne donning a revealing corset dress for her fra-grance Fierce.

Keeping a laidback style while fo-cusing on incorporating ideas on the Spring Summer 2013 trends is not an easy thing to do, yet HU-MAN pulled it off. Stripes were

the motif of their first collec-tion, consisting of colored denim jeans, sneakers, and suede and leather boots. Guest model Kylie Jenner pumped the crowd with a gold blazer, blue top, and jeans. Rob Kardashian followed with a simple monochromatic top with jeans. Joey Samson’s collection came next, followed by Human’s second collection consisting of metallic and leather accessories for the street flavor. Concluding the show was Human’s gray scale boyish suited-up set. Meticulous construction and intri-cate designs were the highlights of the last show of the day. Arnold Galang’s army of models suited up with his collection Rebellion of a Non-Conformist which was leather pieces and detailed ac-centuations. Next up was Jerome Salaya Ang’s collection Perse-phone’s Kiss. Filled with sexy and revealing pieces, his models brave the runway. Phillip Tampus followed with artful pieces and laces combined with acrylic cut-outs. His collection was feminine, contrasting his sleek menswear pieces. Closing the show was Re-nee Salud with her intricately de-tailed pieces.

Taal has been known for their be-loved embroidery crafts, and with messages from Batangas lead-ers Mark Leviste and Vilma San-tos-Recto, Burdang Taal: Habing Pilipino made its way in the run-way. Barong tagalog was the opening of the show by Bergamo, while Dong Omaga-Diaz and Gerry Katigbak showed their updates. JC Buendia and Randy Ortiz show-cased their sleek and chic piec-es. Next was Vic Barba’s street style with embroideries and Edgar Madamba’s playful skirts. Edgar San Diego followed with luxurious pieces while Fanny Serrano went

for the stunning volumes. John-ny Abad’s set played with curled fringes while Jontie Martinez’ was greys with various cuts. Lito Perez emphasized on prints and bright green and Ole Morabe’s set were fluorescent pink sleek pieces. Os-kar Peralta’s collection was bi-as-cut plaids and Richard Papa’s was a fusion of scarlet chiffon with embroideries. Roland Lirio closed the show with his contem-porary athletic incarnations for Burdang Taal.

Day 6: Mixture, Menswear, and MagnumAris Pico opened the show with dresses shaped like hourglass-es designed with flowers. Boyet Dysangco and Cherry Samuya Ver-ic followed with their nudes and faint sheen. Delby Bragais’ set was primarily of soft candy col-ors. Emily Sy came next with her sweetly-hued collection, while Fanny Serrano entered with vo-luminous pieces. Frederick Poli-carpio’s sorbet colors, Gil Maca-ibay’s delicate draping, and June Pugat’s shadow-dyed fabrics complimented each other. Marc Rancy and Nolie Viñeza hosted vermillion and oversized flowers with laces. Popo Go soothed with embellished grays while Randall Solomon closed with texture and avant garde headdresses. Executive Producer Joey A. Espi-no, Jr. gave a speech proving that the collections for menswear for the Spring Summer 2013 are to be looked forward to. Anthony Nocom’s contemporary Barong Ta-galog-inspired pieces opened the show, with Bang Pineda following with neon and fluorescents on black. Dodjoe Batu paired earth tones with prints while Drei Sori-ano’s monochromatic set boast-ed of cover-ups. Edgar Buyan’s tough and tailored set contrasted

90 EVENTS

with Herbert Custodio’s Barbie-in-spired pieces. Jeffrey Rogador showed calm and clean collection and Jinggo Inoncillo’s set was in-spired by flowers. M Barretto went for the chic and casual look, while Odelon Simpao created a psyche-delic set. Ulysses King’s set was energetic and sporty, compli-menting Zxander Tan’s steampunk motif. The finale was a parade by the designers on the runway with the male models.

Creativity was flowing through-out the Ready-to-Wear runway as Magnum presented the coun-try’s talented designers. Dave Ocampo opened the show with a resort collection. Emi-Alexander Englis went for all-nude pillar dresses, and Jian Lasala’s set was a youthful sophisticated touch. Meanwhile, John Herrera present-ed a sleek and strong collection as Paul Herrera unveiled a black, playful set of dresses.

For Visions and Trends, Bo Par-con presented grayscale prints while Enrico Carado showed his hourglass dresses with spring-time prints. Jaki Peñalosa upgrad-ed her indigenous fiber, and Jan Garcia went for avant garde with

vinyl and plastics. Barong Tagalog references were evident in Jot Lo-sa’s collection, and Mark Tamayo added high-shine metal embel-lishments to classic silhouettes. Oz Go’s collection was consisted of red-blue-white ribbing, seal details, and stamp prints. Santi Obcena went for raw, gritty tai-lored pieces, while Xernan Orticio showed his signature precision black and white paneling and sexy cutouts. Closing the show was John Guarnes with earth-tone sensual collection featuring Mag-num’s Choco Capuccino.

Penshoppe gives off a summery mood with their collections which included bright neon, tropical prints, and bold colors. However, they keep their pieces within the season, adding sparkly knitwear, sequins, and sheer stockings. Fur-ther into their collection, their ca-sual anthology accentuated col-ors that epitomized Summer and Spring, effectively complimenting the neutrals paired with them.

Day 7: Pursuing PerfectionPhilippine Fashion Week closed with Cignal presenting Colours Gala: Lesley Mobo. London-based and an alumnus of Central St.

91

Martins (awarded the Emilio Pucci and Diesel Awards), Les-ley presented his Spring Summer 2013 in an exclusive dinner and charity gala. With the harmonies of the vocal group Blake and the excellent menu by cibo di M, Les-ley’s anthology was a master-piece to behold.

Every piece was finely crafted: intricate, embellished dresses, classic blacks, and the occasion-al color pop. Design after design, his pieces greatly compliments each other, thus showing a full collection. The gala, hosted by Tessa Prieto Valdez was pro-duced in partnership with Kaye Tinga for the benefit of Ligh-tomorrow project. The night’s guests spanned various sectors of society, from Manny V. Pan-gilinan, to Tim Yap and Vicky Belo, and Sharon Cuneta. The im-pressive craftsmanship of Lesley Mobo’s collection was a grand, sophisticated finale for the Philippine fashion Week Spring Summer 2013.

EVENTS

SPOTTED!At the Philippine Fashion Week

Spring / Summer 2013

Pia Valenciano

Rxandy Capinpin

Rai Hontanar

Moi DiegoYen Escriba Salamoding

92 SPOTTED!

Protests are a common sight in the Philippines. It is the people’s

way of voicing out their opinions. Different kinds of protests can be utilized in order to get one’s, or more commonly a group’s, message across. A recent example of this is the online protests of social network users against the Cybercrime Law. Some groups created online petitions to remove the bill entirely; others showed their protest by changing their Facebook display photos to black. And some, the more computer savvy, supported Anonymous’ operations. Of course, there are certain boundaries that are supposed to be set. But sometimes, protesters take their expression a step too far. Just like what happened to Kermit Tesoro.Who is Kermit Tesoro anyways? Kermit is an internationally renowned avant-garde Filipino fashion designer. And by being an avant-garde designer, his styles are very unique and unusual than most. Also, a few months back, he’s allegedly at the receiving end of threats and bullying from a religious group that protests against Lady Gaga. Why Kermit then? Because he, together with artist Leeroy New, was the designer of Lady Gaga’s costume in the music video of “Marry the Night”. Lady Gaga held two concerts here in the Philippines last 21st and 22nd of May this year. The concert pushed through despite protests from religious groups against it.

Groups are accusing Lady Gaga is an “anti-Christ” due to her controversial songs. And, for some reason, Kermit has taken a backlash of those attacks.So, here’s the question: why threaten and bully Kermit, even way after the concert’s over? For designers, having a famous person acknowledge their designs and even wear their creation is a huge step. And whom can the average person think of when it comes to unique fashion aside from Lady Gaga? Surely, it’s an accomplishment for a unique design to be worn by a unique icon.Was it because he worked with Lady Gaga? There were a lot of people who made the concert possible. Were they threatened as well? Should they pick on each and every one of those who attended the concert and made it a success? That’s impossible.Kermit has left some statements in his twitter page regarding the issue. These statements were unnamed, but it can be seen that it was for a religious group that has been allegedly bullying him. He even said, “Mideo Cruz and I are now friends”. Mideo Cruz, a Filipino artist, earned the ire of the Catholic Church due to his creations that shows defaced religious images.A friend of Kermit, socialite and businesswoman Divine Lee, has been on his side and defended him. She stated that having skulls as part of Kermit’s designs doesn’t make him satanic. Kermit was fascinated

in human anatomy, she said. The most ironic of her statements might be the one revealing that Kermit, together with his family, was very religious.Hopefully, this whole issue is over (it has been a few months after the said threatening, after all). Unfortunately, there are still some irrational people who are willing to step over the line in order to get what they want. Some are just extreme that no explanations can change their perceived truth and beliefs. It’s not wrong to be open-minded. It’s not a sign of one’s weakness of mind, but rather the proof of strength in one’s own beliefs despite differing opinions and facts. One can simply just scratch his head in confusion and ask why being irrational is getting rampant in this country. But that’s another story.Kermit did what he had to do. And, as a designer, he must feel very proud of his works.After all, what’s wrong with that?

WHAT’S WRONG WITH THAT?by Lou Gatchalian

93EDITORIAL

In the Philippine fashion industry, fashion designers or brands

display their collections by means of runway shows to advertise the latest trends in fashion. Usually, they go all-out in an event called Fashion Week. This event allows fashion designers to showcase their “handicrafts” for them to let everyone know what’s “hot” and what’s “not” for the season.

However, not exactly everyone is allowed to go to the Philippine

Fashion Week. For most people it is through the Philippine Fashion Week’s main website. You will need to put your e-mail address there to participate in their raffle draw. If you get picked, you will be given your pass to the Fashion Week, plain and simple. A different way to be a part of the said event is by being “guest-listed” by the designers themselves but of course, not all people are friends with them so this limits the viewers of the Fashion Week.

It is safe to say that not everyone agrees with the limits the fashion

industry of the Philippines imposes on their viewers during Fashion Week, but in my opinion, it is totally logical for them to minimize their viewers. The main purpose of the Fashion Week itself is only to showcase the latest trends and not to garner public opinion. Limiting their viewers also protects their reputation as being exclusive. After all, they have the right to be exclusive, since in the fashion industry extravagant clothes made by top class fashion designers pay off by being limited and exclusive.

They limit their viewers because they don’t want everyone to partake in the Philippine Fashion Week since they don’t want to be distinguished as the fashion show for the common man. That’s the realm of fashion industry. These high fashion people want to be the stuff of legend and in my opinion that makes sense since they are the ones who set trends for us people to follow. Also, let’s say for example, considering the fact that a lot of us Filipinos are fashionistas by heart, if they won’t limit their viewers; can you imagine runway shows being similar to stage concerts due to the overwhelming number of people who want to take part of it? That would be chaotic on so many levels.

In addition, it is not a secret that there are people who do not agree

on promoting fashion shows. For example, some religious people say that this kind of presentation could possibly lead to promiscuity as most fashion shows bring up lingerie for women or men, with that said, the models who are used to showcase them on the runway are half-naked. Even some doctors and nutritionists do not simply agree on how models prepare themselves in order to conform to the standards of fashion shows. According to them, those people who are modeling for a specific brand in those aforementioned fashion events become role models for the young ones – but then again, models aren’t like normal people.

There were cases that some people died due to crash dieting

resulting in starvation and death. In addition, some psychological studies say that teenage girls tend to lose their self-esteem, as they cannot reach their ideal figure, as they try to compare themselves with those models that they have seen in the catwalk. With that in mind, it is a possibility that the affected populace will conduct protests DURING the fashion show and that is not a good thing.

Not everyone cares about fashion too so it is a good thing that

the organizers have only decided to conduct raffle draws for earning passes intended for the Fashion Week. Meaning to say, the only ones who will participate in those raffle draws are those who are really interested in fashion, thus avoiding unnecessary crowd.

Most of us might have not even heard of Philippine Fashion

Week. That’s because it’s only talked about in the society circles of the fashion elites as compared to ordinary fashion shows held inside a mall or open streets. For an ordinary citizen who just usually follows trends like me, I’d rather not spend my time to be physically there where it happens. It would be more practical for me to just wait for those clothes to land on my favorite retail stores. After all, I could just read lifestyle magazines or maybe watch a channel that airs fashion shows to check the latest trends but I could only speak for myself.

PHILIPPINE FASHION WEEK AND THE PUBLIC

by Glenne Sarcilla

94 EDITORIAL

Fashion. In today’s culture, fashion has played a major role in terms of

displaying one’s status in our modern society. From sporting a winter jacket to wearing a glamorous night gown. Be it conventional, seasonal or just as simple as wearing a plain shirt paired with denim shorts. Fashion also means style. When it comes to fashion, being in style is a must. But not all people are aware or are knowledgeable about something that is also related to both fashion and style, and that is what we call a “trend.”

Being creative and being competitive are only two of

the many things that an aspiring fashion designer should be to express themselves or to set a trend, not to mention that being in that line of business is a tedious task itself. However, the good thing about fashion is that it is as vast as a human’s capability to imagine. It could be eccentric or conservative, simple or complex, exaggerated or mundane. Fashion is also a form of art as some fashion designers would say when asked about it.

Excessive jewelry, fascinators, boots, high heels or

undergarments, all of them are utilized by fashion designers who intend to make a mark in the Philippine fashion industry. We could say that each has an inspiration whenever they do the craft, and for them to be able to

showcase their work, the Philippine fashion industry usually sets up an event called the “Fashion Week.” The works of the crème de la crème of fashion designers will be judged by the masses, scrutinized by manufacturers and critiqued by designers to be reproduced or adapted while being showcased on the runway during the event.

For some reasons, the said “Fashion Week” has its limits. One example

is that men’s style in terms of fashion has limited exposure compared to that of the women’s.

Here are some of my opinions regarding on why there has only

been one Men’s Fashion Week here in the Philippines:

Room for Creativity and Innovation – Compared to women’s fashion,

there is most likely a given limit on how men’s wear should be stylized. For example, in our modern culture, you cannot simply let a man wear a coat or a suit then pair it with a skirt, whereas, if you use the same pair and let a woman wear those, it would still look good and fashionable, opposed to the Bohemian era where men could wear flashy outfits that were considered ahead of the majority back then. Even if one is stoic like an avant-garde, being in the fashion industry requires one to somehow conform in the status quo. A fashion designer cannot simply bend the fundamentals of fashion. Simply put, you cannot just let a

ONLY ONCE?

man wear high-heels like women do. There is also a thin line drawn between being “fashionable” and being a “fashion disaster” as how some fashion critics put it.

Lack of Demand of the Fashion In terms of conforming to the

consumers’ standards, fashion designers tends to emphasize women’s fashion. The target market of the fashion itself is the consumers and most of those consumers are women. Here in our country, the majority of men are disinterested with extravagant clothing because of their contentment with the usual outfits that they could possibly find in the nearest boutique. Men often practice a practical lifestyle. In addition, some companies use women as a marketing strategy to promote their interests and because of that, they are expected to dress-up since they are the ones who are up front. On the contrary, men’s fashion does not require superficial stylistic innovation that is often used in designing women’s outfits. Generally speaking, men’s careers do not require them to look “stunning” as opposed to women’s. With that said, the demands are lowered and that would also result in low production and promotion.

Limited Seasons – It is a given fact that we only have two seasons

here in our country; wet and dry. In accordance to those two seasons were our fashion trends are based.

95

by Jaro Necessito

EDITORIAL

The fewer the seasons a country has the less style the fashion industry of that specific country can create. Fashion trends are made to be suitable according to the seasons. Some countries have 4 seasons: winter, spring, summer, and fall – which means they have access to a wider variety of approaches to a design, in contrast to the limited pairing and clothing material options of Philippines.

The Nature of Man – Men’s “Fashion Week” targets primarily

homosexual and metrosexual men, who seek to improve their appearance by acquiring the latest in designer fashion. The common man on the street simply does not watch fashion shows due to the stereotypes associated with them. A man who is as straight as an arrow simply goes to the mall and picks up what he thinks would look good on him, since men care far less about

96 EDITORIAL