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Page 1: auxlights

8/14/2019 auxlights

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/auxlights 1/5

 

_

+BATTERY

FUSEHOLDER.

10 AMP

FUSE

CRIMP RING

TERMINALS

CRIMP SPADE

CONNECTORS

AUTOMOTIVE

40A SINGLE POLE

RELAY

TWO POLE

CONNECTOR.(AMP)

MAIN BEAM

HEADLIGHT

DRIVING

LIGHT (R)

H3 - 55w

CONNECTOR FOR

H3 BULB WIRE

+  +  + _

87 30 85 86

SCOTCHLOK

VARIOUS TYPES

AVAILABLE

TWO COMMON

RELAY TYPES

AUTOMOTIVE WIRE. 10 AMP OR GREATER RATING (21/0.3).

SLEAVING - P VC, FIBER BRAID, OR TAPE BINDING.

ON/OFF

SWITCH IFREQUIRED

(Note 3.) 

TO DRIVING

LIGHT (L)

(Note 1.)

(Note 2.)

(Note 4.)

(Note 5.)

R1150GS additional lighting

LAB 2001

Lee Bastin ([email protected])

1

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DRIVING

LAMPS

LIGHTING BAR

2 SOFT PACKING

WASHERS (NYLON) 

CAP

PLATED

STEEL WASHER

PLATED M5SOCKET CAP

SCREW 

POPRIVETS5mm Dia

(3/16) 

SECTION THROUGH

LIGHTING BAR

CABLE EXIT

AT REAR

R1150GS additional lighting

LAB 2001

Lee Bastin ([email protected])

16mm SQ

35mm

(Note 6.)

2

275mm

480mm

Page 3: auxlights

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R1150GS additional lighting

LAB 2001

Lee Bastin ([email protected])

RELAY

Note 3

Note 5

Note 1

3SOLDER

NOTES.

1. The relay fits nicely inside the instrument housing, just under the cover,

and is held in place by cable ties (see pic). The connecting cables come in fromunderneath with all the other cables.

2. Power to switch the relay comes fro m the high beam light (white wire).

I used a Scotchloc because it’s quick and simple and doesn’t involvecutting any of the bikes wires.

3. I haven’t put a switch on mine as I live out in the sticks and I’m not likely to want

to switch them off. But if you live in town, for example, you may feel you need to fita switch. Maplin electronic stores do a nice flush switch that’ll fit in or under the

instrument housing (see pic).

4. A connector for the lighting bar is a good idea in case you need to remove the

whole thing. The connector fits neatly up inside the instrument housing keeping the

weather off yet still making it easy to get at. If you can’t get any two pole typeconnectors you can always use a couple of crimp bullet connectors, only make sure

that the live wire has the female fitting to avoid any shorts when disconnected.

5. The cable loom is split to each lamp inside the lighting bar. I’ve used soldered

splices (like those in Jap looms). This is done by trimming off the insulation, twisting

the wires together, and soldering. The whole lot is then insulated with heatshrink tubing (see pic), but you could use crimp splices if you have enough room inside

your chosen bar.

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R1150GS additional lighting

LAB 2001

Lee Bastin ([email protected])

Dispersion pattern, bike on main stand,

3 metres from garage door.

Well there it is! I think I’ve covered everything. Of course

this is only my way of doing it, there are many other ways of achieving the same result but it’s definitely worth doing if 

you’re fed up with the GS’s useless high beam.

I hope you all find this useful. If you want any more info

then drop me a mail and I’ll see what I can do.

NOTES (Cont.)

6. The material used for the bar was a length of 16mm square section

aluminium tube which started life as a fold-up push chair! After drilling all the

necessary holes I covered it with heatshrink tubing to give a good durable

finish which was far quicker than spraying it. Any sort of bar would dothough, my mate used stainless steel tube for his. The lamps are held in place

on the bar by pop rivets, which are quick and easy, and angled outwards about

2 degrees. This is due to the bar being shaped like that but gave a good overalllight dispersion (see pic) so you may want to consider this when mounting the

lamps.

The comp lete assembly is held in place by two M5 socket cap screws, thesereplace the two Phillips screws located forward most on the underside of the

beak. The two nylon washers are used to pack out the slight recess in whichthe Phillips screws sat. Although these Phillips screws only hold the bodywork 

in place they are sufficient for mounting the lighting bar on as there’s not

much weight involved. But don’t over-tighten them or you’ll strip the brass

inserts. 

Useful retailers.

B & Q. - Material for bar, fittings, some automotive bits.

Maplin Electronics. - All electrical parts, heatshrink.

Farnell Components. - Mail order electrical, heatshrink, pvc sleaving, etc.

(http://uk1.farnell.com)

Auto shops. - (Les Smith, Halfords, etc) Driving lamps, electrical

parts.

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R1150GS additional lighting

LAB 2001

Lee Bastin ([email protected])

5