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ultratravelIN ASSOCIATION WITH AUSTRALIA.COM

LOUIS DE BERNIERES OUT WEST DARCEY BUSSELL IN SYDNEY SIMON BATES ON WINE&WILDLIFE

*

The Daily Telegraph

Reef and Rainforest

Cape Tribulation, where

the Great Barrier Reef

meets Daintree National

Park, Queensland

There’s nothing likeAUSTRALIA

OCTOBER 2011

nothinglikeaustralia.com/uk

There’s nothing like being inspired by the locals

There’s nothing like swimming

with turtles on Ningaloo reef in

Western Australia

Lisa Lamprecht, Aspendale, VIC

There’s nothing like hanging out of a helicopterexploring the fabulous Whitsunday’s on an air safari.Tracy Taylor, Carina, QLD

You can now plan your trip to Australia before you

even arrive with nothinglikeaustralia.com/uk - the

ultimate insider’s guide.

We asked the locals to tell us about the most incredible

holiday experiences on their doorstep and they came up

with thousands of reasons why there’s nothing

like Australia.

Packed with inspiration, our interactive map features 3,500

of the most unique Aussie experiences – it’s the perfect

place to start planning your own Australian adventure.

There’s nothing like sipping a cold,crisp glass of Mornington Peninsulawine overlooking the vines on asummer’s afternoon.Susan Healy, Glen Iris, VIC

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Features12 The road less travelled On a memorable drive from Sydney to Melbourne, Charles Starmer-Smith shuns the

Hume Highway and opts for the less familiar east coast route, with its forest reserves, lagoons, kayaking spots

and unexpected penguin colonies

16 Six great Australian journeys How to see the best of the continent by car, train, bicycle or boat

18 From classic to smooth In South Australia, DJ Simon Bates enjoys the fine wines of the Barossa Valley, the

gourmet treats of Adelaide and the untamed wilderness and wildlife of Kangaroo Island

24 Go west From atmospheric mining towns and haunting Aboriginal art to peerless seafood, Western Australia

has it all – and its climate makes it the perfect year-round destination.

Louis de Bernières even found inspiration for his book Red Dog there

28 A traveller’s calendar Australia has something to offer at every

time of year. Jolyon Attwooll draws up a plan for all seasons

30 Uluru, Alice and more How to get the most out of an Outback

trip to Australia’s extraordinary Red Centre

34 Tropic of adventure In North Queensland, Mark Chipperfield

explores the best of both worlds: the aquatic pleasures of the Great

Barrier Reef plus the rich flora and fauna of Daintree National Park

Regulars6 The season Festivals, events, celebrations – and when to go where

9 Ultratravel accessories Essentials for the flight Down Under and

during your stay; plus the very best Australian-made goods, from

beachwear and skincare products to classic RM Williams boots

40 Ultratravel directory New hotels in Sydney and Perth; wine and

food tours; an Aboriginal-run eco-lodge in a magical maze of

waterways; and helicopter tours from a safari lodge in a birder’s paradise

42 Travelling life British ballerina Darcey Bussell gives tips on how to

get the most from Australia, where she moved in 2008

Unbelievable Uluru At Longitude 131˚, a wilderness camp with 15 luxury

tents, guests wake up to views of Australia’s most iconic rock (page 30)

© Telegraph Group Limited 2011. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited.

Colour reproduction by wearefmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by Nick Perry.

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WHERE TO BEWHAT TO SEEHOW TO BOOK IT

New Year’s Eve fireworksDecember 31, 2011 Nationwide

This year’s celebrations will be especially spirited because

New Year’s Eve falls on a Saturday, giving revellers Sunday

and Monday to recover. In Sydney, one of the best views of

the fireworks will be from the 25th-floor restaurant of the

Bayview Boulevard hotel, while harbour cruises will let

spectators watch from the water. In Perth, one highlight

will be a Hawaiian Beach Party, with stunning views of the

illuminated city. A dedicated website gives details of what’s

on in Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, Brisbane, Gold Coast,

Canberra, Adelaide and Hobart. newyearseve.com.au

Swisse Mark Webber ChallengeDecember 7-11, 2011 Tasmania

After a two-year absence, during which the Australian Formula

1 champion recovered from a broken leg, the four-day charity

event that he founded returns, taking competitors on a journey

through 220 miles of Tasmanian countryside. Whether trekking,

mountain biking, kayaking, swimming or rafting, they will

raise money for the Leukemia Foundation and the Save the

Tasmania Devil campaign. Spectator and competitor packages

will shortly be available. markwebbertasmaniachallenge.com

Adelaide FringeFebruary 24-March 18, 2012 Adelaide, South Australia

For 24 glorious summer nights, the pubs, cinemas, theatres,

streets and parks of Adelaide become venues for this, the world’s

second-largest fringe festival after Edinburgh’s. More than 750

acts will be performed by 3,500 individuals, from clowns, jugglers

and risqué comics to musicians and burlesque artists. Founded

in 1960, this annual event attracts more than 300,000 visitors

and begins with a sensational opening parade in which 1,000

choreographed performers move through the east end of

the city. adelaidefringe.com.au

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Barramundi ClassicMay 8-14, 2012 Darwin, Northern Territory

Barramundi fishing is a national obsession in Australia, and this is

the sport’s premier event. Every May, the community-based Darwin

Game Fishing Club hosts the “Barra Classic” at Banyan Farm, on the

famous Daly River. Barramundi (meaning “large-scaled river fish” in

one of Queensland’s Aboriginal languages) are caught, measured,

tagged and released by teams of three; scores are accumulated

daily by length. The Barra Classic is an invitation-only tournament

and the 45 places are hotly contested by anglers from around the

world as well as Australia. darwingamefishingclub.com.au

TheAUST

Emirates Melbourne CupNovember 1, 2011 Melbourne, Victoria

“The race that stops a nation” takes place on the first

Tuesday of November – and the name is no misnomer.

All over Australia, punters watch the horse-racing live on

television and, in Melbourne itself, the day is declared

a public holiday, with 100,000 spectators flocking to

Flemington Racecourse to see it. In the build-up, there are

gala dinners, glamorous luncheons and a parade. If you

miss this year’s Cup – the 151st – book for 2012, when the

event takes place on November 6. melbournecup.com

Ningaloo Reef whale sharksMarch-June Ningaloo, Western Australia

More than 220 species of coral live in the Indian Ocean off Western

Australia, and their spawning attracts Ningaloo Reef’s most popular

visitor – the whale shark (Rhiniodom typhus), the largest fish in the sea.

The 130-mile reef fringes the shore at some points, such as Turquoise

Bay, where dolphins, manta rays, humpback whales and nesting

loggerhead turtles are often seen. Ningaloo was this year listed as

a World Heritage site and visitors have a choice of superb places to

stay, from Sal Salis, with its spacious wilderness tents set among the

white dunes of Cape Range National Park, to new resort developments

such as Assured Narina Studios in Exmouth and, 90 minutes south,

Coral Bay View in Coral Bay. salsalis.com; westernaustralia.com

And looking further ahead…In 2013, the biennial Barossa Vintage Festival takes

place from March 30 to April 7, luring oenophiles with its

laid-back programme of wine workshops, cellar visits and

tastings, combined with live jazz, literary events, craft fairs,

concerts and the famous Festival Ball – all made doubly

palatable by the beautiful autumn weather in South

Australia. barossavintagefestival.com.au

In June and July, 2013, the Lions Tour is expected to

attract 40,000 rugby fans as the British and Irish

Lions – the most famous touring side in

the world – play six provincial

games and three test matches

in the tournament’s 125th

year. Demand for tickets

is likely to exceed

supply, so best book

now. lionstour.com

Australian Fashion Week May, 2012 Sydney, New South Wales

Early in the month (exact dates are yet to be

confirmed), the buzz of Sydney will be amplified

further as designers, models and the media

descend on Circular Quay for a week of events

showcasing the seasonal collections

of Australian and Asia-Pacific designers.

Past shows have helped raise the profile of

Lisa Maree, Alex Perry, Zimmerman, Toni

Maticevski and Collette Dinnigan, among

others. rafw.com.au

RALIAN SEASON 2011-12

Ceduna OysterfestOctober 6-7, 2012 Ceduna, South Australia

The annual Oysterfest in Ceduna, on the Western Eyre

Peninsula, is a big draw for visitors looking to enjoy

a hedonistic weekend in the spring sunshine. On the menu are

plump, succulent oysters from Smoky Bay and Denial Bay

farms, which together account for about 20 per cent of the

state’s production. Savour them either cooked or raw with

a glass of chilled white wine, watch a shucking contest and

enjoy the live music, fireworks and family fun. ceduna.net

Audi Hamilton Island Race WeekAugust, 2012 Hamilton Island, Queensland

Australia’s biggest and most prestigious offshore sailing event,

the equivalent of Cowes, features a new superyacht category

and a social programme focused on food and fashion. Exact

dates are to be confirmed, as is the shore-based itinerary, but this

year’s highlights included a cruise collection by Australian fashion

designer Collette Dinnigan, a series of chef’s table dinners and an

appearance by Dannii Minogue. hamiltonislandraceweek.com.au

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Ready for take-off

Top shelf Satellite phone £500 (020 7120 0009, satphone.co.uk). Ideal for Outback travel; sends and receives texts as well. Middle shelf Versatile pouch £75 (01234 712266, tusting.co.uk). Leather; washable lining.

Earphones £175 (bang-olufsen.com). These EarSet3i phones stay put; top sound, too. Sunglasses £200 (silhouette.com). With protective 35SPF lenses. Satnav £110 (0808 238 0000, garmin.co.uk). With Australian maps to

download. Vibrating watch alarm £269 (020 7253 3234, retailfacility.co.uk). Good for jet lag. Bottom shelf Journal £69 (0845 0526900, aspinaloflondon.com). Pen £135 (parkerpen.com). The smooth Ingenuity won’t

leak on the plane. Dual SIM Android phone £249 (020 7382 8250, viewsoniceurope.com). Cuts usage costs. Camera £644; viewfinder, £275 (020 7629 1351, leica-camera.co.uk). LED screens are useless in sunshine.

On the flight to Australia, comfort is

paramount. We pick six essentials for the journey

and 10 ultra-useful items for your stay

LCKI8KI8M<C�ACCESSORIES

Heavy-duty moisturisers

Travel kit, £80, and Daily Serum,

£193 (intraceuticals.com); Alpha

H Liquid Gold, £31.50 (cultbeauty.

co.uk), all useful in the battle to

avoid looking unalluringly

dehydrated on arrival.

Capacious hold-all £1,100, by William

& Son (020 7493 8385, williamandson.com).

With main luggage in the aircraft hold, the

No1 in-flight/stopover essential is a large,

easy-to-scrabble-in bag – to hold an iPad,

a Kindle and each of the items shown here.

Swimwear £132 by

Seafolly (asos.com). For

a quick swim in Singapore,

where Changi’s airport

pool provides a revitalising

dip on the stopover en

route to Sydney. The most

famous of Australia’s

swimwear brands,

Seafolly – worn by Sienna

Miller, Kate Moss,

et al – is famous for its fit.

In-flight socks £16 by Perilla

(01886 853615, perilla.co.uk).

Made of alpaca wool – softer

than cashmere, longer-lasting,

and naturally anti-bacterial.

Even if worn on every day of

a tour across Australia, alpaca

socks will remain fragrant.

Cashmere blanket £485

by Holland and Holland

(020 7499 4411,

hollandandholland.com).

Luxuriously cosy comfort

for when the in-flight

air-con turns icy – and

useful for “rugging up” in

the Outback during

a chilly dawn trip to Uluru.

Sleep mask £12.95

(020 8449 3645,

hypnosishealthcare.com).

Made of padded velour,

with a stretchy band to

hold it firmly in place, this

not only cuts out about 98

per cent of light but is so

comfortable it’s hard to

take off. Easily the best of

its kind. Jetlag salvation.

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1 Craftsmen boots £255 (01767 601145, rmwilliams.com).

Super-comfortable, from the famous company started in

1932 in an iron shed in Prospect, South Australia – now an

atmospheric museum. 2 Sunhats £135, by Helen Kaminksi

(0845 206 2000, heidiklein.com). Handmade from raffia

crochet and they roll up, too – perfect for travel. 3 Pearl

and sliced-diamond earrings £22,000 (020 7201 8582,

talismangallery.co.uk). Pearl fishing was a major industry in

Broome, Australia, in the 19th century and the legacy lives

on. 4 Embroidered cotton tunic £255 by Collette

Dinnigan (0800 044 5700, net-a-porter.com). Most Australian

fashion designers focus on beach life but her elegance puts

Dinnigan in a class of her own. 5 Bikini £132 by Seafolly

(asos.com). Australian beachwear is outstanding. Other top

brands include We Are Handsome, Zimmerman (sold at

matchesfashion.com), Sunseeker, Rip Curl, Billabong and

Seventh Wonderland. 6 Holdall £350 by RM Williams, as

before. 7 Papaw cream £4.20/£9.50 (020 8337 3097,

pawpawshop.co.uk). “The finest antiseptic”, wrote

Dr TP Lucas in 1906 of Australia’s favourite cure-all;

papaw (papaya) soothes, heals and hydrates, too.

8 T-shirt Sass & Bide, £140 (net-a-porter). Cuff £105,

available from Selfridges (rachaelruddick.com)

LCKI8KI8M<C�ACCESSORIES

Made inAustraliaThese home-grown brands can be found

in every city Down Under – but if you don’t

have time to shop, or sufficient room in

your luggage, they are available in Britain

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New South Wales & Victoria

Charles Starmer-Smith set

out on a road trip from

Sydney down the sun-kissed

east coast to Melbourne. The

route took him through forest

reserves and fishing villages

to deserted beaches, eerie

lagoons and an islet teeming

with penguins. Take the road

less travelled, he urges:

there’s nothing like seeing

another side of Australia

Gilded ute The author (in white T-shirt, driving his utility vehicle, and

kayaking) embarked on an odyssey that took him to Montague Island

and its lighthouse (main picture); Bannisters restaurant at Mollymook

Beach, owned by Rick Stein (top right); idyllic Jervis Bay (bottom right);

and along the sweeping arc of Sea Cliff Bridge (bottom left) in Illawarra

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES BRAUND

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ROAD

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canning the horizon for

a sign of the humpback whales that wallow in the bays of

Montague Island, we heard a high-pitched moan from the

dense mat-rush. I glanced at our guide for an explanation.

“Yep, that’ll be the lesser spotted mattress shaker,”

said Mark Westwood, who has been taking tours out to

this tiny slab of rock in New South Wales for the best part

of 20 years. “Seldom seen, always heard.” Our confused

looks soon broke into cackles of laughter.

He could be forgiven for having reproduction on his

mind as tiny black-and-white lives were created all

around us. Nesting beneath the thick foliage, the colony of

Little Penguins on this islet off Narooma was flourishing.

Treasured by the Aboriginal peoples who named it

Baranguba, Montague Island is a magical place. The

magnificent 130-year-old lighthouse standing at its

summit offers unsurpassed views over the Eurobodalla

coastline, but it is the wildlife that has put the spotlight on

the island. Visitors can walk among the penguins (the

largest colony in New South Wales), snorkel with fur seals

(New Zealand and Australian varieties), or track southern

humpback whales on their annual migration.

With visitor numbers strictly limited, it felt at times

like my own private wildlife show with Mark providing

the enthusiastic commentary. “Pretty bloody sexy isn’t

it?” he said, as he lifted up one of the nesting boxes to

reveal a penguin mother sheltering her newly-laid eggs.

I nodded, hoping the word might have a slightly

different connotation Down Under.

The island was just one of a dozen memorable stops

on my road trip - with diversions, 800 miles - from Sydney

to Melbourne. Driving my white “ute”, a pasty Pom’s

attempt to blend in with the local population, I had set out

through the Sydney suburbs two days previously,

shunning the Hume Highway in favour of the route down

the lesser-known east coast, then along the south coast.

A steady stream of traffic, a wrong turning or two and a

heated exchange with Sheila (the ever-so-condescending

satnav) meant I made slow progress out of the city.

Familiar names came and went – Bondi, Bronte, Coogee,

Botany Bay – magnets for the joggers, swimmers and

surfers who encapsulate Australia’s enviable outdoor

lifestyle. But it was only when the sleepy backwaters of

Kiama and Berry had been and gone and I had reached

the southern banks of the Shoalhaven River, that I felt the

road trip had truly begun. The pristine waters and white

sand shores of Jervis Bay National Park beckoned, but

first my journey took me inland through the rainforest

canopy to Paperbark Camp.

There I was met by Ben Hutchings, whose parents

were the architects of this luxury tented camp (glamping,

if you must). As we sat under the tall gum trees on the

veranda of the site’s ochre-toned Gunyah restaurant, Ben

explained how they had left their publishing and

engineering jobs to follow a pipe dream hatched over

sundowners at a private safari camp in Africa.

They decided that tented luxury (teak decking,

spacious double beds, ensuite bathrooms) was a concept

that would translate well to Australia. It was a few years

before they found this 100-acre site of untouched

bushland, and it took even longer to cut through the

reams of red tape. However, it was worth the wait.

With my hunger sated by a lunch of local line-caught

kingfish with pumpkin and ginger purée, we set off for

Jervis Bay to explore the national park from the water.

Waved off by Janet Boardman, from the head office of her

Jervis Bay Kayak Company in Huskisson, we paddled into

waters as flat as a mill pond. A kangaroo looked on

quizzically as we skirted some rocks before drifting gently

towards the beach. Dozens of animal tracks criss-crossed

the sands, left by animals that were safe in the knowledge

that no human predator is allowed to step on shore.

It can take a while to get the city out of the system, but

this is a great place to accelerate that process.

Nor am I the only Pom to wax lyrical about the region.

Just a little way down the Illawarra coast is the home of

Cornish chef Rick Stein, who has also put his name to

a local restaurant. Set on the clifftops above beautiful

Mollymook Beach, near Ulladulla, Bannisters is

a boutique hotel-cum-restaurant just three hours from

Sydney. Transformed from a 1970s motel, it has rooms

with sweeping ocean views, vast bathrooms, private

balconies and all the mod cons. If you are really looking

to push the boat out, then rent Stein’s own grand

property just up the road, which comes complete with

its own high-spec fitted kitchen and 12-person hot tub.

I had missed Stein by a week, but his personality was

stamped all over the restaurant, from the seafood-heavy

menu and Asian influences in the kitchen to the Cornish

accent of Julian Lloyd, the head chef. He began working

for Stein at the age of 14, after his father, a fisherman who

sold seafood to the “Padstein” empire, mentioned that his

son was “into cooking”. Lloyd has never looked back.

I found him sitting at the bar, tasting his latest seafood

creation, his fresh face and floppy hair more boy-band

than executive chef. “I started out doing all the rubbish

jobs in Rick’s kitchens – chopping vegetables, washing

pans – but I gradually worked my way up,” he said. “It

was when I was looking to set up on my own that Rick

offered me the chance to head up the restaurant here. It

was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.”

The result of their collaboration is a menu that

celebrates the region’s wonderful seafood: local flathead,

kingfish, trevally and sand whiting; oysters from

Batemans Bay; Merimbula prawns and more.

I opted for succulent ravioli lobster, followed by an

Indonesian-style fish curry with just the right amount of

spice, all served up in informal surroundings by staff

who, refreshingly, refuse to stand on ceremony. It was

easy to see why the walls are adorned with awards.

Such is the curse of jet lag, I found myself wandering

down to Mollymook Beach at dawn to discover a perfect

crescent of sand being pounded by a steady stream of

rollers. Young surfers were catching the first waves of the

season, silhouetted against the deep-red horizon.

Reluctantly, I left Mollymook behind me, crossing

whitewashed bridges and coastal passes and sweeping

over the rolling hills towards Narooma for my memorable

trip to Montague Island. It was mid-afternoon by the time

the boat returned me to terra firma and I set out for the

artisan community of Tilba Tilba, stopping for a caffeine

fix amid its 19th-century weatherboard architecture. By

the time I reached Moorhen Cove, a luxury townhouse on

the outskirts of Bermagui, the sun was beginning to set.

I strolled down to Blue Wave Seafoods for the best fish

and chips in town and sat on the veranda staring out over

the wetlands, a mecca for birdwatchers. Sydney suddenly

felt a very long way away.

The next morning saw my ute winding through the

rich dairy farmland of the Bega Valley, a highlight of the

week. Over every brow of this undulating landscape,

another panorama seemed to open up. I took the

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opportunity to get off the main road and thunder down

unmarked farm tracks, throwing up dust in my wake in

pursuit of comical places such as Bunga Bunga. Instead of

nubile young models and a sexagenarian Italian, I had to

content myself with a scene from a rural idyll: a family, all

on horseback, galloping across open pasture past their

weather-burnished farmhouse.

The onset of the dense forests of Croajingolong

National Park marked the end of New South Wales and

the beginning of Victoria. Without the panoramic vistas to

distract me, I began to notice more trivial things like the

locals’ endearing inability to do understatement: from the

“Drink drive? Bloody idiot” road signs to the fire warnings

that go from moderate to high, to very high, to severe, to

extreme, to catastrophic.

But few can overstate the beauty of the great Gippsland

Lakes, the largest inland waterway in the

southern hemisphere. Drawing up in the tiny

backwater of Metung, I was pleasantly

surprised by the palatial accommodation on

offer. With harbour views, private saunas and

hot tubs on balconies, the 5 Knots boutique

apartments offered the slower pace of life

that their name suggests.

Greeted next morning by Sascha Johns of

Riviera Nautic, I joined her on one of her

company’s retro cruisers to navigate the

area’s vast network of lakes, marshes and

lagoons. In what was becoming a theme for the trip, she

and her husband had turned their backs on the rat race in

favour of a life messing about on boats.

Here, the laissez-faire attitude was in sharp contrast to

the health-and-safety culture that pervades Australian life.

Because the lakes are sheltered from the ocean swells by

the magnificent Ninety Mile Beach, you do not even need

a license to charter one of Riviera Nautic’s boats: gnarled

old sea dogs and novice sailors are equally welcome.

I had arrived on a day of particular excitement, as local

news stations announced breathlessly that a new species

of dolphin had been discovered in the lakes. As if on cue,

a pod of dolphins swept alongside the boat, diving

beneath the shimmering waters. “We’ve just radio’d them

in for you – plain old bottlenoses, I’m afraid,” quipped our

skipper. “I just hope their batteries don’t run out.”

After working up an appetite on the water, I drove on

to the tiny fishing village of Port Albert – an unlikely

setting for a top-notch restaurant that has been getting

rave reviews. On the site of an old fishing co-op, Wildfish

is owned by Michael Dobson, a fifth-generation

fisherman. After a lengthy stint living the high life while

working on superyachts for the likes of Billy Connolly and

Richard Branson, the prodigal son has returned to Port

Albert, where his family has lived for 165 years.

“I always wanted to come back and open this place,”

he told me. “Restaurant experience is something I’m

short on, but I know how to cook fish.” As I tucked into

beautifully tender King George whiting, accompanied by

a glass of crisp Narkojee chardonnay, I couldn’t disagree.

After lunch, I turned back on myself to head down to

Seaspray and finally set foot on the fabled sands of Ninety

Mile Beach. The shore was deserted but for an elderly

gentleman staggering out of the water, his pinkish body

and peach-coloured swim hat giving him an unnerving

resemblance to an overgrown shrimp.

“First swim of the season?” I ventured, scarcely

believing he could bear to bathe in these 12C waters.

“You’ve gotta be joking mate,” he replied. “I haven’t

missed a day’s swimming on these shores for 32 years,

come hell or high water.”

For the people of nearby Wilsons Promontory (known

affectionately as “the Prom”), the past few years have

been exactly that. First came a series of wildfires in 2009

that devastated more than half of the 400,000-hectare

park on the southernmost tip of mainland Australia. This

was followed by unprecedented floods in March, bringing

a torrent of water that swept away everything in its path,

including tourism-related businesses. That night,

I noticed Andrew – the affable owner of the beautiful

Limosa Rise holiday cottages where I was staying (think

roaring log fires and panoramic ocean views) – quietly

clench a fist when it was confirmed that the main section

of the park would reopen the following week.

Next day I was given a sneak preview. Turning things

around has been a huge job, and workers were still busy

repairing pathways, bridges and buildings. The track up to

Mount Oberon remains closed and a handful of the

30-plus hiking routes in the area may never reopen, but

the landscape has lost none of its other-worldly appeal.

Seemingly from every vantage point, mountains rise,

valleys plunge and islands are scattered like loose change

across the deep-blue ocean. We wandered along rainforest

tracks teeming with wildlife, through river basins and into

cool fern gullies, past granite cliffs and dazzling stretches

of sand. The most amazing was Squeaky Beach, where I

couldn’t stop a smile creeping across my face as the white

quartz sands produced the required noise under foot.

It was my final stop before reaching the bohemian

streets of Melbourne and it seemed a fitting end,

reinforcing my perception that you can only discover the

real Australia by shunning the big box-office hits in favour

of the country’s lesser-known productions.

As they say in these parts: “Still thinking of giving the

south coast a miss? Don’t be a bloody idiot”.

Overleaf, six other great Australian journeys

ACCOMMODATION Paperbark Camp (00 612 4441 6066,

paperbarkcamp.com.au), rooms from A$370 (£230) per night;

Bannisters (00 612 4455 3044, bannisters.com.au) from A$250

(£157); Moorhen Cove (00 612 6493 4004, moorhencove.com) from

A$250 (£156); 5 Knots (00 613 5156 2462, 5knots.com.au) from

A$500 (£312) for the three-bedroom penthouse; Limosa Rise

(00 613 5687 1135, limosarise.com.au) from A$250 (£156).

RESTAURANTS Rick Stein at Bannisters (as above); Blue Wave

Seafood (00 612 6493 5725, bluewaveseafood.com.au); Wildfish

(00 613 5183 2007, wildfish-restaurant.com.au).

ACTIVITIES Jervis Bay Kayaks (jervisbaykayaks.com.au);

Montague Island (montagueisland.com.au); Riviera Nautic

(rivieranautic.com.au); Wilsons Promontory (parks.vic.gov.au).

FURTHER INFORMATION sydneymelbournetouring.com.au;

visitnsw.com; visitmelbourne.com

Water world (left to right) Water-sculpted rocks at Wilson’s Promontory; a surfer; Gippsland Lakes, the largest inland waterway in the southern hemisphere; kingfish at Bannisters; and ‘glamping’ at Paperbark Camp

VISITORS CAN WALK AMONG PENGUINS, SNORKEL WITH FUR SEALS OR TRACK WHALES

THE DETAILS

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For further information and to find out more about why

there’s nothing like the Sydney to Melbourne Coastal Drive,

visit Australia.com

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6 GREAT AUSTRALIAN JOURNEYS

1 THE INDIAN OCEAN

DRIVE Western Australia

Launched with much fanfare

in September 2010, the

Indian Ocean Drive links the

Western Australian capital of Perth with the

northern outpost of Geraldton. Officially, the new

route begins at Yanchep, north of Perth, but given

that the total length of the drive is 266 miles, who

is going to quibble? The route, which showcases

some of Australia’s most rugged coastal scenery,

can be completed over three days – but allow

longer if you want to linger along the way for

a spot of snorkelling, scuba diving or fishing. Many

locals think nothing of completing the return leg

from Geraldton to Perth in a single day, but you

may want to overnight en route – or fly back.

Highlights include the Pinnacles Desert, near

the town of Cervantes. It takes its name from

a collection of impressive limestone structures,

some of them almost 10ft high. Cervantes is also

the rock lobster capital of Australia, so be sure

to sample one of these delicious crustaceans.

Further north is Jurien Bay Marine Park, a popular

spot for snorkelling and, surprisingly, skydiving.

The three-day drive ends in Geraldton, a seaside

town with a colourful history and laid-back

atmosphere. indian-ocean-drive.com

2 THE ORION CRUISE Broome to Darwin

Australia’s first national

highway was the ocean lapping

its immense shoreline, so it is

fitting that Orion Cruises has

chosen to revive long-distance

coastal sea voyages. The shipping line operates

small-group cruises to many parts of Australia,

New Zealand and the Pacific. Destinations

include the Bay of Islands, the Kimberley,

East Timor, Papua New Guinea and Tasmania.

One of Orion’s most popular expeditions is

its 10-day voyage from Broome to Darwin (or

vice versa), exploring Australia’s vast and largely

pristine north-west coast. Tour highlights include

Montgomery Reef, the Mitchell Falls and the

astonishing Bungle Bungles mountain range.

The ship also makes a stop at Jaco Island in East

Timor, en route to Darwin, in Northern Territory.

Anyone interested in the harsh beauty of

“the Top End” will enjoy the route – and unlike

the vessels of 200 years ago, the German-built

MV Orion transports guests in five-star luxury.

Each of the 53 staterooms and suites on board

is equipped with internet connection, television,

refrigerator, separate living areas and marble

bathrooms. Shipboard amenities include

a spa, sauna, whirlpool, masseuse, hairdresser

and boutique. MV Orion also carries Zodiac

inflatable boats with outboard engines,

plus kayaks and windsurfers for those of an

adventurous bent. orionexpeditions.com

3 THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD Victoria

Consistently voted one of

the world’s great drives,

Victoria’s Great Ocean Road

stretches from the regional

city of Geelong, just west of

Melbourne, to Warrnambool, close to the South

Australian border. The 150-mile route was built

largely by returned soldiers between 1919 and

1932 and is the world’s biggest war memorial.

Best-known for its association with the Twelve

Apostles – a series of dramatic limestone

outcrops dating back 20 million years – the route

is increasingly seen as a destination in its own

right. The growing popularity of surfing ensures

that this historic drive is winning over a new

generation of admirers. Bells Beach is an iconic

surf break – and home to the annual Rip Curl Pro

surfing tournament. Indeed, there are few

places along this stretch of coast where you

won’t spot a surfer or two in the water.

The Great Ocean Road passes through the

coastal settlements of Lorne, Torquay and Apollo

Bay, but also provides a chance to visit Great

Otway National Park – a huge area of ancient

forest, gullies, waterfalls and coastal reserves. The

park contains all manner of native species, such

as koalas, wallabies, quolls, skinks, gliders and

even platypus. Allow four days to complete the

entire drive, longer if you want to go surfing

or hiking along the way. greatoceanrd.org.au

4 THE GHAN Darwin to Adelaide

Once known as the Afghan

Express, the Ghan is a

transcontinental passenger

train linking the cities of Darwin

and Adelaide – and therefore

traversing the harshest and most inhospitable

deserts on the planet. Named in honour of the

Afghan camel-drivers who opened up Australia’s

“Red Centre” in the 19th century, the Ghan is

a modern air-conditioned train with three cabin

classes (Platinum, Gold and Red), plus airline-style

seating for economy passengers. In Platinum,

there are just 25 stylish cabins, each offering

a generous living and sleeping area, an ensuite

bathroom, plenty of storage space and large

viewing windows. Passengers have the use of

a private dining car, plus the services of a steward

who is permanently on call.

While the entire 1,850-mile journey can be

completed in three days, it’s tempting to take

longer. The train’s operator, Great Southern

Rail, has developed a wide range of off-train

excursions to Uluru (Ayers Rock), Kakadu National

Park and the opal-mining town of Coober Pedy.

Since the Ghan operates twice weekly, passengers

can do these, rejoin the train and complete their

journey to Adelaide. Shorter excursions (known as

whistle-stop tours) are available for passengers

who want to stay on-board. gsr.com.au

5 THE CLARE VALLEY WINE REGION

South Australia

Often overshadowed by the

Barossa Valley and McLaren

Vale, the Clare Valley is South

Australia’s prettiest wine

district, with rolling landscapes,

a good smattering of colonial history and, of

course, some of the world’s best rieslings.

Factor in some high-end country accommodation

and Clare is an alluring package.

Just two hours’ drive from Adelaide, it remains

in touch with its farming roots. Things move at

a slower pace here, allowing the opportunity for

long chats with wine-makers and the chance to

linger over a pleasant vineyard lunch. Best-known

for its flinty rieslings, the Clare is now producing

excellent reds (shiraz and cabernet sauvignon)

and whites made from gewurztraminer, viognier,

pinot gris and chardonnay.

A big draw is the Riesling Trail, a 22-mile

cycling and walking route linking some of the

Clare’s most significant vineyards: Sevenhill,

Mount Horrocks, Grosset, Knappstein and Tim

Adams. Since the trail follows a disused railway

line, gradients are gentle. The region’s premier

accommodation is the boutique Thorn Park by

the Vines, but other plentiful options include farm

cottages such as those at Skillogalee. The vineyard

also happens to have the Clare Valley’s most

revered winery restaurant. southaustralia.com

6 THE MARIA ISLAND WALK Tasmania

Ian Johnstone, the founder

of Tasmania’s Maria Island

Walk, must be struggling to

find space on his mantelpiece.

Since he launched this

remarkable eco-adventure in 2005, Maria Island

Walk has won just about every tourism award

in its class. The reason? Strict adherence to the

principles of sustainable tourism, enthusiastic

guides and, finally, the island itself – surely one of

the most hauntingly beautiful places on earth.

Maria (pronounced Mar-eye-ah) Island, located

off the south-east corner of Tasmania, began its

life as a 19th-century gaol for political prisoners,

most of whom simply rowed to the mainland and

escaped – or bought a passage back to England.

Since 1972, the island has been managed by

the National Parks and Wildlife Service, which

maintains both the natural landscape and the

convict ruins in Darlington, the only settlement.

The four-day Maria Island Walk is a wonderful

way to explore this Lilliputian world. Guests stay in

a series of permanent eco-camps, offering great

food and local wine. With modest daily walking

targets, there is plenty of time for birdwatching,

swimming or optional side trips. Don’t miss the

chance the scramble up Mount Maria for some

panoramic island views. mariaislandwalk.com

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To find out why there’s nothing

like an Australian journey,

visit Australia.com

Australia

BRIDGE & WICKERSt r a v e l w i t h e x p e r i e n c e

“Australia offers an amazing variety of experiences - and there’s no better way to get a fl avour of them all than a visit to South Australia ”

From the stunning

Flinders Ranges of

its Outback, to the

world renowned wineries

of the Barossa Valley

and the spectacular

wildlife of

Kangaroo

Island, South

Australia has it

all, within

easy reach of

its gateway city

Adelaide.

With Bridge & Wickers,

Tourism Australia’s

‘Travel Company

of the Year’, you

can experience

South Australia in

style as our bespoke

8 day itinerary for

Ultratravel readers

shows.

From Adelaide you’ll

head to the Barossa

Valley, one of Australia’s

best known wine regions

for a two night stay at

The Louise, a boutique

hotel resembling a

colonial homestead.

With expansive views

across thousands of

acres of vineyards, it’s

the perfect base from

which to visit world-

famous vineyards like

Yalumba, Seppelts, and

Penfolds.

Lush vineyards give way

to the rugged red

landscapes of Australia’s

Outback as you drive to

The Flinders Ranges for

a two night stay at

Arkaba, an authentic

sheep station dating

from 1851 and a classic

Flinders

homestead

building,

with thick

stone walls

and deep

shady

verandas.

Explore Wilpena

Pound, a huge

natural amphitheatre,

discover fossils in

the ancient sea

beds at Brachina

Gorge, or study

Aboriginal art at

Arkaroo Rock.

Drive back to Adelaide

for an overnight stay at the

fi ve star Intercontinental

in the heart of the city

before taking the short

fl ight to Kangaroo

Island, one of the best

places to see Australian

native animals in their

natural habitat. Spend

two nights in luxurious

Southern Ocean Lodge

and enjoy the dramatic

coastal scenery, pristine

beaches, sea lions,

birdlife and of course

Kangaroos and Koalas.

Flinders Chase National

Park is another highlight

where the spectacular

Remarkable Rocks and

Admirals Arch reveal the

amazing wild forces of

nature.

Return to Adelaide with

a wealth of memories

of your authentic

Australian experiences.

From £3165 per person

based on two sharing(Flights from the UK not Included)

This is just one of the many itineraries we have created in South Australia. For a brochure, or to discuss your own bespoke itinerary, call one of our specialist consultants or visit our website.

S outh Australia From Outback to Ocean, enjoy the very best that it

has to offer, as only Bridge & Wickers know how.

Relax in style at Arkaba Station, surrounded by the awesome

scenery of the Flinders Ranges

Dine in award-winning style at “Appellation” whilst staying at

The Louise, among the lush vineyards of the Barossa Valley

Enjoy spectacular sea views, wilderness and wildlife from the

comfort of Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island

020 7483 6555bridgeandwickers.co.uk

Barossa Valley Vineyards

Meeting the locals on Kangaroo Island

The Flinders Ranges

���LCKI8KI8M<C�

Southern comfort The sundowner

deck at Southern Ocean Lodge on

Kangaroo Island, built on a dramatic

escarpment overlooking the surf.

Inset: food as art at Appellation

restaurant; a resident kangaroo;

and the author in relaxed mood

South Australia

LCKI8KI8M<C���

When broadcaster Simon Bates (inset) did a series of live radio shows from Adelaide, the Barossa and beyond, he

discovered a laid-back world of fine wine, good food and decent values where even the wildlife seemed civilised

MAKING TRACKS DOWN UNDER

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t is 30 years since I first visited Australia, so

you could say we have a long-standing relationship. In

fact, everything I know about radio I learned on that vast

continent — and to a lesser extent in New Zealand, where

I also worked for a while. I like the can-do approach

Down Under and the general lack of stuffiness. I still hate

anyone calling me “Sir”, and that is a legacy of my time

working in Sydney. Australians are doers not talkers.

These days my daughter lives in Melbourne and has

a marvellous time there. When she finishes work, she

goes kayaking on the ocean near her home. It couldn’t be

more of a contrast with London.

So when it was suggested that I spend a week doing

a series of live shows from Adelaide, the Barossa Valley,

Kangaroo Island and the Flinders Ranges, my only

question was: “When do we leave?” Aussies are naturally

hospitable, so I knew my producer and I would be well

looked after, but I had no idea how different South

Australia is from Sydney and New South Wales — the only

part of the country I know well. To paraphrase one of my

hosts, South Australia is a microcosm of all the great

things Australia has to offer — wine, wild landscape,

stunning beaches, exotic animals and endless sunshine —

all within a single destination.

One of our first appointments in Adelaide was at the

fabulous Central Market. The variety of fresh produce

available is staggering. You’ll find everything from freshly

pressed olive oil to traditional smoked meats, sourdough

bread and farmhouse cheeses. I love the fact that it’s

a living, breathing market with a history, not just a tourist

spot. People have been selling produce here for 142 years.

Our guide was local foodie Mark Gleeson, a former

chef who conducts walking tours of the market and has

his own pastry stall there. His early-morning tours are a

great way to absorb some of the culinary history of South

Australia. “It’s all about diversity and getting to know the

stories of the people who work here,” Gleeson said.

“I like to show people what the market is really about.”

After that, we were off to the Adelaide Oval where

some great contests have taken place between England

and Australia over the years. Since I’m a keen cricket fan,

this is holy ground to me. It’s the place where, during the

infamous Bodyline series of the 1930s, the English team

received a rather hostile reception from the home crowd,

according to an Aussie friend of mine. It was here, too,

that Sir Donald Bradman notched up some of his most

memorable innings. Beneath the stands, there is a

museum dedicated to Adelaide’s most famous (adopted)

son, housing his collection of cricket memorabilia.

From Adelaide we drove — or, more correctly, were

driven — north to the Barossa Valley, Australia’s most

famous wine-growing district and its most productive:

South Australia accounts for half of the country’s entire

wine production, some 700,000 litres. Luckily, a few litres

have made it into the magnificent walk-in wine cellar at

The Louise, the immaculate country house hotel in

Marananga where we spent the night. The chef’s tasting

menu at Appellation, its award-winning restaurant,

provided an introduction to the Barossa’s superb riesling,

chardonnay, grenache, cabernet and shiraz varieties.

Executive chef Mark McNamara is passionate about what

he calls indigenous “Barossan” cuisine and his dishes

showcase beautiful local produce, from ham cured on the

premises to Hutton Vale lamb and delicate prawns from

the Spencer Gulf. The Barossa’s first European settlers

came mostly from Eastern Germany and England, and a

strong Cornish legacy is evident in the agriculture. “Apart

from grapes, we grow Australia’s best carrots and

poultry,” McNamara said, “and our yabbies [freshwater

crayfish] and game birds are outstanding.” A “Ten Pound

Pom” (or post-War migrant) whose parents came out from

London in the 1950s, he is a good example of the hard

work, enterprise and passion that has shaped the Barossa.

Food, wine and cricket aside, what makes South

Australia special? Sitting there surrounded by vines and

listening to Mark McNamara, I was beginning to get the

picture. First, South Australians have managed to hold on

to the old values; they still know how to make great wine

and produce perfect prosciutto. Second, the region’s cities

are small enough to encourage civilised behaviour. In

Adelaide, I walked the streets at rush hour and didn’t have

to keep my head down or look at anyone and say, “Yes, do

you have a problem?” The weather has a mellowing effect,

too. It was early spring when I went, but still sunny and

pleasantly warm. I’m convinced that clear blue skies lift

one’s spirits — that, and breathing good country air.

Early one morning, we piled into a big white Toyota

4WD for Breakfast with the Kangaroos — one of The

Louise’s most popular excursions. I was sceptical that any

of these fine-looking Eastern Grey kangaroos would turn

up to see a couple of Pommie broadcasters, but to my

surprise the national park was like a Trafalgar Square for

marsupials. They were everywhere – and because they

have never been hunted, you can get very close. We even

saw a young female carrying a joey in her pouch. Call me

an old softie, but it made my day, as did the poached

pears and handmade Bircher muesli we had for breakfast.

For our broadcast that day, we headed to Peter

Lehmann Wines in Tanunda, in the heart of the Barossa.

Less well known than Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds and Wolf

Blass, it is nevertheless a respected winery, producing

beautifully structured reds (shiraz, grenache and merlot)

and a range of contemporary whites and rosés. We set up

our broadcasting deck on the lawns beneath the towering

gum trees, and were even provided with a kookaburra

which occupied a branch above my head. We couldn’t get

a squeak out of him — let alone a full-throated song.

Over the next four hours, I chatted to some of the

region’s best grape growers, winemakers and

viticulturalists — try saying that after a few glasses of

shiraz. These blokes are like the horse-breeders I know in

England, with the same passion and single-mindedness.

They are not just making a product, but living the life they

want to lead, and money is only part of the equation.

I also noticed how multi-talented everybody was. Most

people I met had a couple of jobs and spent their spare

time fishing, yachting, cycling or restoring classic cars.

After a blissful day among the vines, we were whisked

back to Adelaide for our early-morning flight to Kangaroo

Island, the next major destination on our whirlwind

journey. Just 30 minutes by air from the mainland,

Kangaroo Island (or KI) is like a separate world, with an

independent spirit, lots of untamed wilderness and an

abundance of wildlife. Visitors come from all over the

world to see the sea lions, kangaroos and koalas for which

the island is famous. My favourite was a spiky little

creature called an echidna. When approached, it buries its

head in the sand to avoid eye contact.

Our guide on the island was Craig Wickham who runs

a tour company called Exceptional Kangaroo Island. He

has lived on KI for 40 years — almost long enough to be

considered a local – and he told me a lovely story about

the English explorer Matthew Flinders who first came

Sweetness and light Clockwise, from top left: checking the bouquet and acidity of a riesling in a Barossa Valley vineyard; horse-riding at a cattle station nea

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LCKI8KI8M<C���

MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

“See more, taste more, do

more” is the mantra of

Bushtucker River and Winery

Tours, whose itineraries range

from the adventurous

(canoeing, caving and river

swimming) to the ethnological

(Aboriginal herbalism) and the

quirkily hedonistic. On a canoe

safari, guests can paddle past

kangaroo habitats then stop, if

conscience allows, for a lunch

of emu with nut pesto

followed by wild turkey with

rosella chutney. For the more

sedate, there are coach tours

into the wine regions (Swan

Valley, Ferguson Valley,

Margaret River) and visits to

boutique breweries, chocolate

factories and artisan cheese-

makers, all with tastings.

bushtuckertours.com

DARWIN, NORTHERN TERRITORY

In the balmy, tropical “Top

End” of Australia, get a taste

for Asian-Pacific cuisine at

Darwin’s Mindil Beach Sunset

Markets, held every Thursday

and Sunday evening during

the dry season (May to

October). The flavours of

Japan, Thailand, Timor,

Indonesia, the Philippines,

Vietnam, Malaysia and

Cambodia will be set up nicely

by a chilled riesling, while beer

is the natural partner to more

traditional options (chips and

burgers). From Darwin, it is

a three-hour drive to Kakadu

National Park with its haunting

Aboriginal culture and

opportunities to see buffalo,

crocodiles and more than 290

species of bird. mindil.com.au

and kakadu.com.au

COAL VALLEY, TASMANIA

On Tassie, enjoy first-class

pinot noirs, then set off in

search of endangered

Tasmanian Devils: carnivorous

marsupials the size of a small

dog, unique to this island 400

miles south of Melbourne. Just

a 20-minute drive from Hobart,

the Coal Valley is Tasmania’s

fastest-growing wine region.

As well as pinot noirs, it

produces cool-climate wines

including chardonnays,

rieslings and sauvignons

blancs. The Coal River Valley

Wine Route makes an ideal

half- or full-day tour, with

tastings and lunch at a

vineyard restaurant. Bonorong

Wildlife Sanctuary is the place

to see Tasmanian Devils, plus

emus, wombats, echidnas and

other injured and orphaned

animals. puretasmania.com.au

and bonorong.com.au

HUNTER VALLEY, NEW SOUTH WALES

Stock up on the wines of the

region (notably its semillons,

described by Jancis Robinson

as “Australia’s great gift to the

wine world”), then relax on a

boat trip down the

Hawkesbury River – abundant

with green and golden bell

frogs, blue-tongue skinks (a

type of lizard), pelicans,

parrots, kookaburras, black

swans, white-breasted sea

eagles and dozens of species

of fish, all within a 45-minute

drive of Sydney. The Hunter

Valley has a well-developed

programme of wine tours and

cellar-door tastings, with the

chance to eat well at some

excellent vineyard restaurants.

winecountry.com.au and

hawkesburyriver.org.au

YARRA VALLEY, VICTORIA

Close to Melbourne, stop off at

Anglesea Golf Course to play

a round among the kangaroos

before heading to De Bortoli’s,

Domaine Chandon and the

other wineries of the Yarra

Valley. The Anglesea club has

a world-renowned 18-hole

course and a bistro open for

lunch and dinner. Its lush

fairways are home to a

resident population of Eastern

Grey kangaroos. The Yarra

Valley’s progressive young

winemakers have harnessed

the diversity of the terroir to

create elegant pinot noirs,

chardonnays and sparkling

wines. visityarravalley.com.au

and angleseagolfclub.com.au

here in 1798. “He and his crew had been at sea for

several months and hadn’t any fresh tucker,” said

Wickham, “so the kangaroos were a welcome change in

diet. Flinders wrote in his ship’s log: ‘In gratitude for

such a seasonable supply I name this southern land

Kangaroo Island’. He added that there had been enough

meat to feed not only the officers but also the men!”

The island’s isolation (increasingly rare in the modern

world) and its lack of predators have turned it into a kind

of Noah’s ark for native species. We stopped for morning

coffee at Bales Beach, a magnificent stretch of white sand

flanked by dunes, and there wasn’t another person in

sight. Walking along the shoreline for an hour, with just

the sound of the surf in my ears, was my idea of heaven.

Next stop was Southern Ocean Lodge, a stunning

property built on a dramatic escarpment overlooking the

surf, where we had a delicious lunch of grilled whiting

(locally caught of course) and a glass of KI chardonnay.

There are 28 vineyards on the island, as well as oyster

and lobster fisheries, cheese-makers, honey producers

and farmers growing delicious “saltbush” lamb – low in

fat and high in vitamin E, because the animals have

grazed on a nutritious diet of desert and seashore plants.

Despite its tiny population (around 4,500), KI also

supports a thriving artists’ colony; after all, somewhere as

wild and beautiful as this is bound to ignite the creative

imagination. Sadly, our stay on the island was short-lived

because an entirely different kind of wilderness

beckoned on the mainland.

The final leg of our odyssey took us to Parachilna,

a one-horse town deep in the South Australian Outback.

Our pilot, Ryan, had flown down from Adelaide to take us

north. When we landed on the town’s dirt strip, there

was no one around to greet us. Then we spotted our

rental vehicle parked next to a tin shed. Inside was

a hand-written note. “Here’s the ute, drop off the

paperwork when you’ve got time,” it read. Somehow

I knew I was going to like this place.

Horses are my great passion, so I was delighted to

have the chance to go for a trot in the middle of the

Outback. My horse was fitted with a stockman’s saddle,

which was extremely comfortable — the equestrian

equivalent of a Rolls-Royce. Best of all, it was almost

impossible to fall out of – an important consideration

when you are an Englishman trying to impress the locals.

That night, we would be sleeping at the legendary Prairie

Hotel in Parachilna, renowned for its “feral feasts” of

wild kangaroo, emu, goat and other bush meats. It

seemed that my adventure was only just beginning.

THE DETAILS

The Louise (00 618 8562 2722, thelouise.com.au). Secluded culinary

retreat in the heart of the Barossa wine region. Two-night packages

from A$995 (£617) for two, including breakfast and a five-course

chef’s tasting menu dinner for two at Appellation restaurant.

Peter Lehmann Wines (00 618 8565 9500, peterlehmannwines.

com). Respected Barossa winery; tastings from A$10 (about £6.20).

Southern Ocean Lodge (00 618 8559 7347, southernoceanlodge.

com.au). Sophisticated clifftop sanctuary on rugged stretch of

Kangaroo Island coast. Suites from A$990 (£614) per night, based on

two sharing, including all dining, “open” bar and guided tours.

Exceptional Kangaroo Island (00 618 8553 9119,

exceptionalkangarooisland.com). “Good wine, good food and wildlife

in the wild”, on a range of 4WD tours.

Prairie Hotel (00 618 8648 4844, prairiehotel.com.au). Historic hotel

in the Outback, famous for its “native Australian” cuisine and offering

outings on horseback. Doubles from A$175 (£109) per night, b&b.

MY HORSE WAS FITTED WITH

A STOCKMAN’S SADDLE, AS COMFORTABLE

AS A ROLLS-ROYCE

5 OTHER DESTINATIONS

FOR WINE AND WILDLIFE

ar William Creek, in the Flinders Ranges; and the panoramic view from The Great Room at Southern Ocean Lodge, dramatically located on Kangaroo Island

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To find out more about why there’s nothing like wine and

wildlife in Australia, visit Australia.com/southaustralia

visit: australia.com

There’s nothing like a feast for the senses.

The smell of crisp, desert air. The taste o f fresh, local produce and quality wine. Silence but for the chorus of insects and the occasional belly laugh from our newfound friends. Then to top it all off, Uluru, the world ’s most stunning backdrop, draped in a blanket of the outback’s fi nest stars. Believe wh at they say, this place is truly magical.

It’s funny how quickly you lose track of time out here too. Forget your watch - days and nights are mea sured in sunrises and sunsets. You can spend hours listening to local guides tell stories that make you never want to leave. Which explains why so many of the people we’ve met here, never have. Hopefully next time we’re out here, we’ ll see you for a drink too.

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Western Australia

Australia’s largest state makes a superb

holiday destination year-round, with 6,000

miles of pristine beaches, lush vineyards in

the south, tropical towns in the north,

spectacular Outback landscapes in

between – and laid-back Perth, with

a flight time from London that is four hours shorter than the

trip to Sydney. Frequent visitor Louis de Bernières (inset)

even found poignant inspiration there for his book Red Dog

FALLING FORTHE WILDWIDEWEST

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I SWAM IN A TROPICAL RAIN SHOWER… THE LOVELIEST THING I HAVE EVER SEEN

Fresh perspective One of the permanent pools of the

Kimberley Waterways, a network of rivers, gorges

and small lakes that irrigate the Kimberley – a region of

Western Australia three times the size of England

PHOTOGRAPH BY FRANCES ANDRIJICH

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ustralians often

say that if Western Australians ever got the chance to vote for it,

they would vote for independence. They perceive themselves

as different, and are so perceived in return. It is hard for an

outsider to see quite why. One person told me it is because

WA is much more British than the other Australian states,

although this is not something that would have occurred to

me. The whole continent seems liberally infested with Brits.

One theme does keep cropping up, though. Everybody in

Perth says, “We’re so cut off!” It is true that it takes hours to

drive to any other major city – 30 hours to Adelaide and almost

two days to Sydney, although it is very easy to fly to both

domestically – and for European visitors it is certainly

a peculiar feeling to be crossing time zones when you haven’t

even left the country. But the people in Perth do not seem to

realise that their city is itself a great cultural centre, and so

they always suspect that all the interesting and important

things are happening elsewhere. Craig Ogden, the great

classical guitarist from Perth, found that he couldn’t have the

career he wanted if he stayed there, but it was not the fault of

WA. It was a problem caused by being in a vast country with

very few cities, and all a great distance from each other.

Being cut off is relative, though. It’s very easy to get to

Bali from WA, and I sympathise much more with the Greek

community in New Zealand, whose constant refrain is, “It’s

so far!” – meaning far from everything, Greece in particular.

I have been to WA several times now, and this has come

about because about a dozen years ago I accepted an invitation

to go to the Perth Festival. I was awed by how lovely it was in

Perth and Fremantle. Some locals swim for a mile or more

along Cottesloe Beach, just outside Perth, before they go

to work, and the quality of the seafood is enough to make

any visitor salivate in retrospect. You don’t forget your first

barramundi, the Australian seabass always described as

“elusive” even though restaurants don’t seem to be short of

them. Fremantle is the arty area, where you will find hopeful

buskers and genuine Italians making genuine majolica.

One of the conditions for going to the Perth Festival was

that I should go up north to the Pilbara to do the first ever

literary event in the mining town of Karratha, and then on up

to Broome. Karratha and its twin sister, the company town

of Dampier, have the perfect climate in the “winter” but are

hot enough to make ceramics without a kiln in the summer.

They are still mining towns but they are prosperous, fully

functioning and civilised, no longer the rough-and-ready,

almost exclusively male encampments of trailers that they

were 50 years ago. It was whilst in Karratha that I found

a statue of Red Dog – the locally famous cattle dog who,

following the death of his master, roamed the region looking

for him – and was inspired to write the eponymous book [now

made into a film, due to be released in Britain in 2012].

The hotel manager had leant me his ute (Australian English

for a utility vehicle), and I took the opportunity to explore

locally, but I did that at far greater length and depth when

I came back to research and write the book. I had made

friends with a journalist, and went initially not north from

Perth to the Pilbara, but south to Margaret River, a relatively

unpopulated area that could give New South Wales a good run

for its money in a competition to name the original Garden of

Eden. My journalist had a tiny family house there, whose water

came from a huge cistern in the garden that collected rain, and

we spent happy times fishing off the rocks and supping the

stupendously fine local wine that is very hard to find anywhere

else, presumably because it is not produced in very great

quantities. The principal town in the paradise of Margaret

River is Albany, but I confess we never got to it because we

were having too much fun where we were. My journalist talked

darkly of it, as if it were a sinister and backward place.

On the way back to Perth, we encountered a town called

Bunbury, which people consider not a proper place at all

because it is more on the way to elsewhere than anything

distinct in itself. It was the subject of a hilarious novel by

James Ricks, Eleven Months in Bunbury, in which workers in

a timbermill looked forward to anyone losing a limb in the

machinery, because then they would be given the rest

of the day off. And after not much more than an hour in

Bunbury, it was back to Perth and then up north again

to the Pilbara, where we did some proper exploring.

There is a ghost town, Cossack, which thrived during

the Pilbara gold rush of the late 19th century and once had

a horse-drawn tram system. The buildings are in perfect

condition but the only people you find there now are a few

Aboriginals quietly fishing. Then there is Roebourne, another

gold-rush town, with now a mainly Aboriginal population

which is far less depressed than when I first saw it. Apart from

its old prison, for many years an attraction (the town once had

five times the average ratio of police to locals), Roebourne

has an important co-operative where Aboriginals produce

high quality paintings, glass and weaving. One of the artists is

ambidextrous and, mesmerisingly, paints with both hands at

once. I bought two pictures, and wish I had bought more.

Not far away is a small community that in many respects

looks like part of a scrapyard, yet it has a flourishing nursery

in which the workers cultivate garden plants that thrive even in

the infernos that pass for backyards and gardens in the area.

These towns fell into decay because of the construction of

Port Hedland, a deep natural harbour from where iron ore

is shipped, and about which I remember very little because,

when I visited it, I was looking for fishing tackle and did not

take a sufficiently close interest in anything else. However, it is

impossible to forget Point Samson, a tiny fishing hamlet near

Karratha whose beach is strewn with shells, and which is

a place of pilgrimage for foodies. Among the shrines are

TaTa’s Restaurant, locally famous for its seafood, and a large

fish and chip shop where you can get a truly astonishing

variety of perfectly cooked fish (including the elusive

barramundi) and eat it on a balcony overlooking the sea.

The whole area tends to look like an environmental disaster,

until you realise that the heaps of red rock everywhere are

completely natural and not the result of careless mining. There

are hundreds of miles of beach where you don’t have to wear

a costume because there is no-one to see you anyway, and

there are little pockets of Arcadia, such as Pretty Pool, outside

Port Hedland, an oasis of beautiful trees and cool clear water.

On my first trip I went further north, to Broome, which

is distinctly tropical. It was originally a pearl-fishing town.

The local council was painting in parking markings for the

first time, and people were morosely complaining that it was

the beginning of the end of their hereditary freedoms. I was

befriended by a man who called himself “Bring ‘Em Back

Alive Tours”. We went fishing in what he swore was a crocodile

swamp, and we gleefully ate our entire catch when we got

home, a whole bucketful. In Broome, too, I swam in a tropical

rain shower on Cable Beach. The drops, as big as golf balls,

raised beautiful plumes of water as they struck the sea. There

is an awful lot I still have to experience in Western Australia,

but those plumes of water, rising up before my eyes and gently

falling back, are just about the loveliest thing I have ever seen.

On page 30, other destinations in Australia to visit any time of year

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Just outside Perth, and a 15-minute drive

from the port of Fremantle, the 13-room

Cottesloe Beach Hotel (00 618 9383 1100,

cottesloebeachhotel.com.au) stands directly

on the beach. Doubles from A$240 (£150).

In Margaret River, the Empire Retreat

(00 618 9755 2065, empireretreat.com) is

a stone- and wood-built farmhouse

converted into an 11-room boutique hotel

and spa, set in 250 acres of wineland.

Rooms from A$260 (£161).

Near Kalgarra, in Point Samson, Point

Samson Resort (00 618 9187 1052,

pointsamson.com), home of TaTa’s

Restaurant, renowned for its seafood,

has rooms from A$330 (£205).

In Broome, the Cable Beach Club

(00 618 9192 0400, cablebeachclub.

com), with a large swimming pool and

spa, has rooms from A$313 (£195).

THE DETAILS

Dream time Clockwise, from top left: seafood, at its best

in Broome and Karratha; camel trekking on Mount

Anderson, in the West Kimberley; canoes on the

Margaret River; an Aboriginal community on the Dampier

Peninsula, north of Broome; and Aboriginal dot art

To find out more about why there

is nothing like Louis de Bernières’

Australia, visit

Australia.com/westernaustralia

���LCKI8KI8M<C�

As the poet Dorothea

Mackellar put it, in words

familiar to most Antip-

odean schoolchildren,

Australia is “a land of sweeping plains,

Of ragged mountain ranges, Of

droughts and flooding rains”. Taken

from “My Country”, Mackellar’s

best-known and best-loved poem, the

lines hint at the vastness of a nation

stretching from the tropical north to its

temperate southern half below the

Tropic of Capricorn. Visitors to the

landscapes that inspired Mackellar’s

verse often settle into something of

a rhythm, heading to the north in the

dry season (the northern hemisphere’s

summer), and south during the

European winter. Yet, as the following

suggestions show, Mackellar’s “wilful,

lavish land” is not so simple: there are

many places in Australia that are quite

extraordinary whatever the season.

THE SOUTHERN SKI SLOPES

For outsiders weaned on the classic

Australian image of beach bums and

surf, the mountain ranges of Victoria

and New South Wales in winter come

as a surprise. When snow falls – usually

from June to August – well-developed

resorts come alive with skiers and

snowboarders, often in easily

accessible areas. Mount Buller is one

such place, just over three hours’ drive

from the sophisticated charms of

Melbourne. Attracting bushwalkers,

horse-riders and mountain bikers at

other times of year, Buller is the largest

of Victoria’s ski resorts, with runs that

are ideal for intermediate skiers and

popular with day-trippers. Mount

Hotham, also in Victoria but a little

further from the city, is known for its

spectacular terrain and generally

reliable snow cover, while Falls Creek

(Victoria again) has a good choice of

runs for proficient skiers. In New South

Wales, the Snowy Mountains live up to

their name, from the snowboard-

friendly Perisher resort and the long

downhills of Thredbo to the cosy village

atmosphere of Charlotte Pass.

THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

This remarkable World Heritage Area,

the longest stretch of coral reef on the

planet, has a lingering season. For

divers looking to immerse themselves

in the underwater world, visibility is at

its best during the dry season, from

around April to October. However, the

warm, sunny days don’t suddenly

vanish outside these times, and nor do

the 1,500-plus species of fish that live

on the Great Barrier Reef – meaning

that, whatever the month, there is no

reason not to go. Some might find the

humid conditions a little too sticky

during the wet season (November to

March) but dipping below the surface

during a period of monsoonal calm has

its own appeal – and there can still be

days of crystal-clear visibility at this

time of year too. (See page 36 for

Mark Chipperfield’s account of a visit

to the Reef and Cape Tribulation).

KAKADU NATIONAL PARK

According to the Bininj/Mungguy

people, there are six identifiable

seasons in Kakadu National Park in the

Northern Territory – and they should

know, having lived in the region for

tens of thousands of years before the

arrival of Europeans. Diverse species of

plants and animals live here, from

wading birds to one fifth of the

country’s mammals, some of which are

found nowhere else in the world. The

landscape varies from soaring

sandstone escarpments and vast open

plains to monsoon forests, savannah

woodlands and tidal flats – and the

way the seasonal weather plays upon

these habitats is extraordinary. First

come the waterfalls and lightning of

the monsoon season (January to

March), when spear grass grows taller

than a man; then the harvest time,

when floodwaters recede, plants bear

fruit and all manner of creatures

shelter their young. Next comes the

cool(ish) weather, when water lilies

carpet the wetlands, followed by the

early dry season when creeks and

flood plains become arid. In our

autumn (August and September) come

the dry months, and finally the pre-

monsoon weather, when streams run

again and water birds spread their

wings. Visitors can take in this

ever-evolving landscape by air, up close

on a bush walk, or on a river cruise.

TASMANIA

It seems counter-intuitive to go to

Australia’s most southerly outpost in

winter. The island’s rugged landscapes

(including the magnificent curve of

Wineglass Bay, on the east coast, and

the crags of Cradle Mountain) are

popular with bushwalkers, cyclists,

rafters and kayakers during the

warmer months, but they hold a

different kind of appeal in winter. The

days at this time of year are bright,

crisp and clear, and walkers can roam

without encountering any crowds

before curling up in front of the fire in

one of the state’s charming boutique

hotels or lodges. Some places may be

out of bounds – the Overland Track,

perhaps the best known of Tasmania’s

trails, is not recommended in winter –

but many shorter routes are still

accessible, including the 20-minute

Enchanted Walk, which leads visitors

through a rainforest, often under

a layer of seasonal frost; Dove Lake,

beneath Cradle Mountain, which can

be circumnavigated in an hour or two;

and the beautiful 11-mile circuit around

Lake St Clair, Tasmania’s deepest

natural freshwater lake. Otherwise,

consider a visit to Freycinet National

Park, where you can skirt the coastline,

scramble across rock pools and and

roam the pink-hued granite of the

Hazards mountain range.

THE CITIES

Brisbane is constantly balmy, and the

deep-blue skies of Sydney are not just

a feature of the summer months:

temperatures can rise well above 20

degrees in winter, when visitors have

the harbour views, galleries, museums

and hiking trails (including the Spit to

Manly walk, on the north shore) much

more to themselves. On the west

coast, Perth’s Mediterranean climate

means the sun rarely stops shining on

the world’s most isolated city, making

its beaches and laid-back atmosphere

a draw at most times of year. When the

cold does briefly set in (June to

August), a vibrant Winter Arts Season

(perthwinterarts.com.au) kicks off to

warm the cockles. Then there is

compact, elegant Adelaide, which also

prides itself on the arts; the city’s Art

Gallery of South Australia was home to

a collection from the Saatchi Gallery

this autumn. Melbourne’s cultural

scene – perhaps the most dynamic in

Australia – arguably comes into its

own in winter. Not only are there its

snug laneways to explore but, as the

Australian Rules Football season

reaches a climax, the city’s unique

sporting madness reaches fever pitch.

A PLAN FOR ALL SEASONSDon’t be bound by convention when visiting Australia – go any time and find riches. Jolyon Attwooll gives advice

THE WARM, SUNNY DAYS DON’T SUDDENLY VANISH, AND NOR DO THE 1,500 SPECIES OF REEF FISH

Life on Oz Sweetlips on the Great Barrier Reef (right).

Top, left to right: the view from Lizard Island, one of the Luxury

Lodges of Australia, on the Reef; a lotus lily in Kakadu National

Park; and Huski apartments in Falls Creek ski resort, Victoria

PH

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To find out more about why

there’s nothing like Australia in

all seasons, visit Australia.com

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the real australiaon your doorstep

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Experience our new Platinum range that features leather couches,

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� �LCKI8KI8M<C�

INTO THE RED CENTREThere is nothing like the heart of Australia: spectacular Uluru is an essential part of any itinerary, and

Mark Chipperfield recommends taking four or five days, starting in Alice Springs, then exploring the

gorges of the MacDonnell Ranges and the dramatic rock formations of Kings Canyon and Kata Tjuta

Northern Territory

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Weird and wonderful A flight

over extraordinary Uluru,

most memorable at dawn or dusk

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nce little more than a

dusty telegraph station marking the geographic centre

of Australia, Alice Springs is today a true icon of the

Outback. Nowhere else in Northern Territory’s “Red

Centre” rivals it for its rough-hewn frontier atmosphere,

or can rustle up the colourful Crocodile Dundee types you

will encounter here. Events such as the annual Henley-on-

Todd Regatta — the world’s only mock regatta involving

semi-naked men carrying “boats” at speed along

a dried riverbed — have created a stereotype of

sun-crazed eccentricity that Alice fully deserves.

Australia’s most famous natural wonder lies 270 miles

away, however, in the form of Uluru – Ayers Rock. Many

of the 400,000 visitors who come to see this monumental

landmark and World Heritage site each year rush in and

out of Ayers Rock airport and bypass Alice Springs. In

doing so, they miss a uniquely Australian experience.

Originally the ancient meeting place of several

desert tribes, Alice Springs has become a major centre

for traditional Aboriginal art, including exquisite dot

paintings and intricate woven baskets. Local galleries

source artwork directly from the region’s remotest

communities, while the town’s 19th-century history

is visible in the many local restaurants serving “bush

tucker”. Visitors can get to sample damper (bread),

smoked emu, crumbed crocodile, and camel sausage. And

with its excellent transport connections from the rest of

Australia, Alice Springs makes an obvious jumping-off

spot for exploring the area.

Although Uluru is just a four-hour drive away by the

most direct route, along the Stuart Highway, taking

a detour pays dividends. To make the most of the

area’s spectacular rock formations, icy waterholes and

fascinating flora and fauna, it makes sense to go via the

magnificent gorges of the West MacDonnell Ranges.

Take the Luritja Road, and devote two or three days to

the journey and then two nights at Uluru, taking time out

for walks, camping and exploring en route. Ideally, one

should travel in a 4WD rather than a standard saloon,

to allow the option of taking the occasional dirt road.

(As this is a wilderness area, it is of course important

to remember to refuel whenever possible and to carry

plenty of water and food supplies.)

The first recommended stopover, an hour’s drive from

Alice, is the Glen Helen resort, a homestead in the West

MacDonnells with motel rooms and a campsite, open fires

in cold weather, a pool for hot weather, and live music

most evenings. Overlooking the Glen Helen Gorge, it has

the 142-mile Larapinta Trail – one of Australia’s great

long-distance walks – on its doorstep. Other attractions

in the area include Simpson’s Gap, one of the scenic

waterholes that have formed between the eroded rocks of

the towering cliffs here, where black-footed rock wallabies

appear at dusk and dawn on the cliff ledges; Standley

Chasm, a gorge cut spectacularly through the vivid

quartzite of the Chewings Range; the deep, clear,

always-icy waters of shady Ellery Big Hole, whose

picturesque geology and bird life has inspired many

artists; and another peaceful spot for a swim below

soaring cliffs, Ormiston Gorge. Helicopter flights and

4WD tours can be arranged and are highly recommended.

While Central Australia has no shortage of comfortable

accommodation, there is nothing quite like sleeping

under the stars. For the ultimate Outback experience,

one should hire a swag (a traditional bushman’s

canvas-covered sleeping bag) and sleep in the red dirt

itself. There are plenty of good campsites in the area,

including the cheerful Ormiston Gorge Camping Ground

(in the desert, but with hot showers and gas barbecues)

and the campsite at the Glen Helen resort, which has the

lovely Glen Helen Gorge swimming hole nearby.

The Aboriginal township of Hermannsburg lies within

easy reach of Glen Helen, and it is well worth stopping

here to visit the house of one of Australia’s greatest

artists, Albert Namatjira (1902—59), also a pioneer

for Aboriginal rights. Although his European-style

watercolours of Outback landscapes now seem rather

old-fashioned, painted in a manner that white Australians

could recognise, Namatjira did much to break down the

hostility between white and black Australians. He also

paved the way for the local Papunya

Tula art movement in the 1970s, whose

works portraying Dreamtime creation

stories now hang in galleries around

the world.

From Hermannsburg it is less

than an hour’s drive to the next

recommended spot for an overnight

stop. Watarrka National Park

houses Kings Canyon, a vast natural

amphitheatre of towering red

sandstone walls almost 1,000ft high,

with lush pockets of vegetation and

dramatic gullies. Its centrepiece is the

Garden of Eden – a natural waterhole

surrounded by cycads, the spiky palms

capable of living for 1,000 years.

A good base from which to explore

this beauty is Kings Canyon Wilderness

Lodge, located in a remote and

secluded part of the Kings Canyon

cattle and camel station. It has

10 air-conditioned tented cabins in

the shade of desert oaks, and offers

gourmet “outback meals” as well as

a stunning desert location. The lodge

can arrange various activities, from

quad-bike rides and camel treks (riding

on descendants of the beasts that

helped immigrant pioneers open up central Australia) to

helicopter flights.

From Kings Canyon and then Finke Gorge National

Park – home to rare desert palms, and with a number of

excellent short walks – the road continues south to Uluru.

An essential preliminary stop before approaching the

great monument is the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre

in nearby Yulara, which offers maps and information

about the ranger-guided walks, rock-art tours, desert

trips by camel or Harley-Davidson, and dozens of other

activities available, as well as a general introduction to the

Anangu, the traditional Aboriginal owners of Uluru.

An overnight stay is essential to appreciate Uluru

fully, and with 5,000 beds in the area there are plenty of

places to stay, from luxurious resorts to basic three-star

hotels and the Ayers Rock Campsite, which has two-

bedroom cabins and permanent tents for hire. Easily

the most luxurious choice, however, is Longitude 131°, a

tented wilderness resort with uninterrupted views of the

Rock, the best food in the region – and a powerful sense

of isolation. Run in association with the Anangu, the

Aboriginal land owners, the resort comprises just

15 luxury tents, a refreshing swimming pool, library,

bar and open-air dining area, and staff can arrange

exclusive excursions led by Anangu guides.

Photographed, ogled and oohed over, Uluru – until 1985

known as Ayers Rock, so named by the British explorer

William Gosse in 1873 – is endlessly fascinating. Rising

1,140ft from the desert, the great monolith is the subject

of endless conjecture.

Beautiful and intimidating in equal measure, its

colour shifts from bright ochre to blood-red, orange and

ominous charcoal. Dawn and sunset are the best times

to view it — but one should “rug up”, as Australians say,

against the desert chill. How visitors experience the rock

depends largely on their fitness, time constraints and

budget. There is one absolute prohibition, however,

and that is climbing on to the rock face, which the

Anangu – to whom Uluru is, of course,

sacred – expressly forbid.

Although helicopter, motorcycle and

camel tours are available, the simplest

and possibly best way to appreciate the

Rock is by foot. Walking around the

base — the complete circuit is just over

six miles — reveals that Uluru is far more

complex than it might first appear, dotted

with caves, fissures and waterfalls. One

can do this alone, but the local Anangu

guides also conduct walks around

the Rock. To hear Dreamtime stories

recounted by one of the traditional

owners of Uluru, and to learn about

the local flora and fauna (including

kangaroos, possums, wallabies and

dingos) is a rare privilege.

For an aerial view, a helicopter

trip or scenic flight over Uluru is an

excellent way to appreciate the haunting

landscape and the vast sheer emptiness

surrounding the Rock.

By night, on the other hand, the most

popular experience is The Sounds of

Silence, a swish open-air dinner served

on linen-draped tables as the sun sinks

over the dramatic rockscape. Besides

a generous barbecue of local delicacies

such as kangaroo and crocodile, the evening includes

a talk by an expert stargazer. Those with a real passion

for astronomy, however, should book the specialist Night

Sky Show. Uluru is one of the world’s best locations from

which to view the stars. Discovering the constellations

and seeing how they move about the heavens, learning

to pinpoint the Southern Cross, and perhaps seeing

a shooting star or two, is, in the immensity of this

landscape, an unforgettable experience.

THE DETAILS

Entry to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park costs A$25 (about £16)

per vehicle for a three-day pass. See environment.gov.au/parks/uluru

for further details.

Glen Helen Resort (00 618 8956 7489, glenhelen.com.au) has

rooms from A$160 (£99).

Kings Canyon Wilderness Lodge (00 613 9426 7550,

kingscanyonresort.com.au) has cabins from A$299 (£185).

Longitude 131º (00 61 2 8296 8010, longitude131.com.au), the

stylish wilderness resort, has luxury tents from A$2,070 (£1,272).

O

Another world Indigenous artists have

always produced work of subtle beauty

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To find out more about why there’s nothing like Australia’s

Red Centre, and for information on the Henley-on-Todd

regatta (18 August 2012) and the Watarrka, Finke Gorge and

Hermannsburg Finke National Parks, visit Australia.com/uluru

Because we know how

important it is to get the best

seats in the house, we bring you…

Flight prices are from and subject to availability, booking conditions and fees may apply. Offers may be withdrawn at any time.

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As above, so below Daintree

National Park (top), the biodiversity

hot spot that enchants every visitor,

merges with the Great Barrier Reef

at Cape Tribulation. Right: the sea life

off Queensland is as accessible to

junior snorkellers as it is to divers

WHEREREEFANDRAINFOREST

WHEREREEFANDRAINFOREST

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Having run his ship aground on a nearby reef, Lieutenant

James Cook was not in a generous mood when he

surveyed the thickly wooded coastline of northern

Australia in June 1770. He named the place Cape

Tribulation “because here began all of our troubles”.

Today’s visitor is likely to have a different impression of this

beautiful stretch of tropical shoreline, which has changed very little

since Cook glimpsed it from the deck of the Endeavour. Walking

along the improbably white Myall Beach is one of the most glorious

experiences that Far North Queensland has to offer. Just 68 miles

north of Cairns, Cape Tribulation is the exact point at which the

Daintree National Park meets the Great Barrier Reef. Since both

natural wonders are classified as World Heritage Areas, a visit to

Cape Tribulation provides a unique opportunity to explore the

tropical hinterland and snorkel (or dive) on the reef on a single trip.

The Daintree is the oldest surviving tropical rainforest on earth,

a remote, mysterious and unpopulated slice of biodiversity that has

been compared to a film set from Jurassic Park. Over recent years, the

National Park has become the base for all sorts of eco-adventures,

from crocodile-spotting and wilderness cruises through the

mangroves to “jungle surfing”.

Aboriginal guides will take you deep into the rainforest, revealing

how indigenous people survived here for more than 40,000 years,

harvesting wild foods from both the land and the ocean and devising

a complex system of homeopathic medicine. Many Queensland

resorts now offer massage therapies and other wellbeing treatments

themed around indigenous culture.

Both the Daintree and the Great Barrier Reef are year-round

destinations, with daytime temperatures in winter (April to October)

averaging 26C. Summers in this part of the world are hot and steamy,

but you can always cool off in the pool or by plunging into a wild

forest creek, perhaps sharing it with some miniature turtles.

In fact, the four European seasons are meaningless in the tropics,

where the locals simply divide the year into wet and dry. The summer

months (November to March) are the hottest and dampest, which

is why so many people in Sydney and Melbourne prefer to visit in

They are two of the world’s great natural

wonders – the Great Barrier Reef and

Daintree National Park – and both can

be explored on a single trip from Port

Douglas or Cairns. Mark Chipperfield

checks out why there’s nothing like

Australia’s wildlife above and below water

Queensland

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Australia’s winter when it is pleasantly warm with clear

skies; even ocean temperatures rarely dip below 25C.

The peak of winter (June to September) is also the prime

season for whale-watching, when hundreds of humpbacks

migrate along the coast, often in playful family groups.

Cruise skippers are on high alert during these months.

A chance sighting of one of the giant mammals,

breaching and slapping down its massive tail, is an

experience not quickly forgotten.

While Cairns, with its international airport, is

a popular departure point for scuba and snorkelling trips

to the Great Barrier Reef, Port Douglas, to the north, offers

a more intimate holiday experience. Once a ramshackle

gold-mining town, it now offers a wide choice of

high-end accommodation (see The Details, below),

gourmet restaurants, designer fashion outlets, a swish

marina and unforgettable adventures on land, in the

air, on the water and under it. Diving, yachting and

fishing charters leave from the harbour daily, and a local

company – Quicksilver Helicopters – will even fly you out

to a private coral cay for a romantic interlude.

With its beautiful white-sand beaches (notably the

stunning Four Mile Beach), a buzzy little shopping village,

a weekly farmers’ market and water sports galore, “Port

Dougie” has enough going on for visitors to spend their

whole trip there. Despite the town’s modest size,

every type of ocean adventure is available down on the

quayside — from overnight sailing trips and “bareboat”

charters (where you skipper your own luxury yacht) to

hardcore scuba diving on the outer reef.

Rated one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Great

Barrier Reef supports myriad species of fish, a staggering

range of sponges, multitudinous clams and more than

400 types of coral, not to mention whales, turtles, dolphins

and the elusive dugong, or sea cow. Not only is it bigger,

more diverse and richer in biodiversity than any other reef

system on the planet, but it offers visitors an astonishing

choice of underwater experiences for every ability level.

Whether you want to drift languidly over coral reefs in

a glass-bottomed boat, don a mask, snorkel and fins to

potter among the reef fish, or go the whole adventurous

hog with scuba gear, there is no shortage of options.

Specialist dive boats, a community of qualified PADI

instructors and the sheer diversity of the marine life

have made the Great Barrier Reef a must-see for divers,

helped by breathtaking underwater visibility of up to 100ft

(though winds, tides and location can reduce it to 20ft).

Nowhere on the Queensland coast has better access to

the reef than Port Douglas. The closest snorkelling and

viewing destination (Low Isles) is just eight nautical

miles from the wharf, and a super-fast boat, the Reef

Sprinter, can get you there in 20 minutes. While most

visitors will be perfectly happy to share their first

experience of the reef with a large number of new-found

friends, others might enjoy something a little more

exclusive, such as a five-star cruise to the outer reef.

Luxurious vessels such as Poseidon III, Calypso and

Silversonic (high-spec catamarans 80ft-100ft long, all with

diving platforms) will take you to quieter dive locations

around the outer Agincourt Ribbon Reef system. Tours are

limited to no more than 90 guests and boats are equipped

with excellent scuba and snorkelling gear, while their

crews provide expert supervision. For those with deeper

pockets, exclusive superyacht charter is also available.

If you can’t decide which to experience first, the Great

Barrier Reef or the Daintree National Park, don’t worry.

Several companies offer small group tours taking in

both. While the Daintree generally plays second fiddle

to the Reef, this remarkable place, sacred to many, is

just as compelling. Covering 2,730 square miles, the

National Park is steeped in Aboriginal folklore and is

one of the great natural wonders of the world. Dating

back 110 million years, the lowland rainforest and coastal

mangroves contain many rare species of plants, frogs,

insects, mammals and birds. Although the Daintree

occupies just one quarter of a per cent of the Australian

landmass, it harbours the broadest diversity of flora and

fauna anywhere in the country. Some animals, such as the

musky rat-kangaroo and the large, flightless cassowary,

have changed very little since prehistoric times.

A cruise along the Daintree River is one of the

highlights of any trip to this part of Queensland. For

something really special, book an evening tour and

spotlight rare species of frogs and owls in the mangroves

while marvelling at the flawless southern night sky.

Another not-to-be-missed experience is a visit to

Mossman (a town 50 miles north of Cairns, not to be

confused with the Sydney suburb of that name), where

you can hike through the rainforest, plunge into

crystal-clear swimming holes and learn about the Kuku-

Yalanji, the traditional owners of the land, who now run

a programme of guided Aboriginal tours. Day trips depart

to Mossman Gorge from both Port Douglas and Cairns.

For a deeper appreciation of indigenous culture, book

one of the excellent Bama Way tours which follow the

songlines of the Kuku-Yalanji and another Aboriginal

tribe, the Guugu Yimithirr, from Cairns to north of

Cooktown, Queensland’s most northerly outpost. For

lunch, you will doubtless be offered damper — bread

baked on an open fire — along with freshly caught seafood

typical of the area, such as mussels and mud crabs.

The Bama Way links three separate tours, each operated

by the traditional custodians of the local area. At Cooya

Beach, guests can join a party hunting for “bush tucker”

or be taught to throw a spear by members of the Kubirri

Warra clan. A highlight of the trip is viewing ancestral

rock art with Willie Gordon, a Nugal-warra elder and

storyteller who explains the spiritual and political

significance behind each panel — a rare insight into the

planet’s oldest living culture, with deep connections to the

Daintree, its forests, waterholes and exotic plants.

Despite its close proximity to Cairns and Port Douglas,

the Daintree remains a secluded place with a casual

shorts-and-T-shirt lifestyle; the only vehicle access is by

car ferry across the Daintree River. It is still possible to

find that perfect stretch of white sand beach or a pristine

swimming hole, with little prospect of running into

another human being.

Adventurous types can continue north from here

on the Bloomfield Track, the controversial 4WD road

carved through untouched wilderness, stopping at Cape

Kimberley and Cow Bay, then on to the frontier settlement

of Cooktown. Personally, I would prefer to end my journey

at Cape Tribulation, walk along the beach and ponder

what Captain Cook saw on that day in 1770, when his

career, and the future of Australia, hung in the balance.

Thala Beach Lodge (00 617 4098 5700, thalabeach.com.au).

Accredited eco-resort in protected area, tucked between Great Barrier

Reef Marine Park and tropical forest. Accommodation ranges from

bungalows to Sandpiper suites perched on a secluded headland.

Two nights from A$445 (£276) per person, based on two sharing.

Sea Temple Resort & Spa (00 617 4084 3500, seatempleport

douglas.com.au). Beachfront five-star three miles from Port Douglas,

with apartments grouped around a vast lagoon pool; the best of these

have a private rooftop terrace with its own private spa and barbecue

area. Two nights from A$310 (£193) per person, based on two sharing.

Peninsula Boutique Hotel (00 617 4099 9100, peninsulahotel.com.

au). Stylish four-star in Port Douglas, overlooking Four Mile Beach, with

34 contemporary suites. Doubles from A$299 (£186) per night.

Quicksilver Helicopters (00 617 4099 6030, quicksilverheli.com.au).

Barrier Reef flight for two to private coral cay, from A$1,198 (£745).

Reef Sprinter (00 617 4099 6971, reefsprinter.com.au). High-speed

boat trip with snorkelling, A$110 (£68).

Cruise and dive Poseidon III (poseidon-cruises.com.au);

Calypso (calypsoreefcruises.com); Silversonic (silverseries.com.au).

One-day trips A$215 to A$240 (£133 to £149).

The Bama Way (00 617 4040 7500, bamaway.com.au).

Guided Aboriginal tours from A$16 (£10).

THE DETAILSFlights of fancy From top: a cassowary, native to north-eastern

Australia; sunset over the Coral Sea, seen from Port Douglas;

and a helicopter flying over Heart Reef on the Great Barrier Reef

IN THE NORTH, DAYTIMETEMPERATURESIN WINTERAVERAGE 26C

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To find out more about why there’s nothing like Australia,

visit Australia.com/queensland

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EDITED BY ADRIAANE PIELOU

Kangaroo Island Sailing Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and

Melville, Kangaroo Island – 93 by 35 miles – lies 70

miles south-west of Adelaide. Uninhabited except for

the residents it was named after when British and

French sailors explored it in 1802, the island remains

a delightful hideaway – and a wonderful sailing

destination. On the 75ft ketch Lady Eugenie, guests

need no sailing experience as they set off from

the Fleurieu Peninsula, on the mainland, sipping

champagne on a twilight voyage. However, they

are welcome to help raise the sails on a three-day

adventure, feasting on fresh local produce cooked

by an onboard chef. kangarooislandsailing.com.au

MONA keeps on movingTasmania’s MONA phenomenom just keeps on

growing. Almost 200,000 visitors have been through

the doors of the splendid building that houses

the Museum of Old and New Art since it opened

just outside Hobart in January, 2011. Now, the

extraordinary multi-gallery exhibition space on the

banks of the Derwent River has burrowed a further

100ft into the earth and emerges at The Round

House. The new extension houses a collection of

4,500 books reflecting MONA’s art collection, which

ranges from ancient Egyptian and pre-Columbian

to contemporary Australian pieces, with one gallery

entirely devoted to the renowned Christopher Nolan.

There’s a top-notch winery too, where visitors can

watch the wine-making process. mona.net.au

Train to see AustraliaHome to some of the most satisfyingly escapist train

trips in the world, Australia now offers the chance

to experience a new rail route. From November until

March 2012, Great Southern Rail will add to its Great

Train Journeys with The Southern Spirit – running

from Adelaide to Brisbane via Melbourne, crossing

the Great Dividing Range, and providing magnificent

views along the eastern seaboard. Whistle-stop tours

will take in the Hunter Valley and Byron Bay. The five-

night trips cost from A$4,400 (£2,768) per person,

sharing a private cabin. thesouthernspirit.com.au

Perth’s in fashion Vibrantly creative, Australia’s £7 billion fashion

industry has been making waves ever since

Alexander McRae launched Speedo in Sydney in

1928 and the country’s swimming team sported the

line at the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics. While older

Australian brands reflect a tough Outback way of

life – Driza-Bone, for instance, with its stockman’s

rainproof oilskin – younger brands focus more

on glamour for the beach, evening and city.

Melbourne, with its numerous little designer

boutiques, remains style capital, but anyone visiting

Perth next September will see Fashion Festival

fever sweep even this laid-back T-shirt and flip-flops

kind of place. perthfashionfestival.com.au

Wild bush luxuryThe remote Bamarru Plains safari lodge lies on

Australia’s tropical northern coast, on Swim Creek

buffalo station, a three-hour drive or a 20-minute

flight by light aircraft from Darwin. Close to the

wetlands of the Mary River floodplains and Kakadu

National Park, the luxury lodge (suite pictured right)

is home to spectacular bird life. More than 230

species congregate in the area, and in numbers

rarely seen elsewhere in Australia. One of the

world’s largest crocodile populations inhabits the

nearby Sampan River; wallabies, wallaroos, dingos,

possums and wild pigs roam the region; and 5,000

buffalo also “call the place home”, as the genial

owners say. And it gets better. The helicopters used

for Mad Max-style mustering of the buffalo are

now being used to give guests a bird’s-eye view

of the thousands of kookaburras, magpie geese,

egrets, whistling ducks and flocks of corellas. One of

Australia’s great new wildlife experiences, it costs

A$390 (£240) for a 30-minute flight. Guests can

also make a sunset flight, landing at an isolated

beach for sundowners. bamarruplains.com

In 1967, Italian immigrant Otto Dal Zotto arrived in Australia

from Valdobbiadene, in the foothills of the Italian Alps,

home of the sparkling white wine, prosecco. Settling in

King Valley, in the foothills of the Victorian Alps, Dal Zotto

planted chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon

vines. In 2000 he added prosecco. And with that, Dal

Zotto’s signature wine was born. Five other King

Valley winemakers – Brown Brothers, Chrismont,

Ciccone, Pizzini and Sam Miranda – have followed

suit with Mediterranean-inspired wines, and the

King Valley Prosecco Road – with intimate food and

wine-cellar-door experiences – now provides

a sparkling day out from Melbourne, a three-hour

drive away. kingvalleyproseccoroad.com.au

A FOSTER’S? PROSECCO, PLEASEDIRECTORY

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As Australia’s resources

boom continues, Perth is

about to open it’s first

six-star Aman hotel.

Opening in the historic heart

of the Western Australian

capital, the opulent, 46-room

Aman will be the result of an

A$100m (£62m) restoration

of the Old Treasury Buildings

(amanresorts.com).

Also in Western Australia,

Eco Beach, the award-

winning tropical eco-resort

90 minutes’ drive from

Broome, has two new

beach houses. Perfect for

a peaceful escape, the

two-bedroom, two-bathroom

houses are set on a clifftop

overlooking miles of white

beaches, the Indian Ocean,

and pristine Kimberley

bushland, and are linked by

timber decks. Guests can

enjoy daily yoga, massages,

paddle-boarding, kayaking,

fishing, snorkelling and, in

season, humpback whale-

watching. The houses rent

from A$750 (£500) a night

(ecobeach.com.au).

In Sydney, The Darling, the

first new five-star hotel to

open in the city since the

2000 Olympics, is now open

at The Star harbourside

shopping and restaurant

complex (thedarling.com.au).

With 171 rooms and

floor-to-ceiling windows

overlooking the bridge,

it will rival the great Park

Hyatt – not uncoincidentally

about to unveil a multi-

million dollar renovation

(sydney.park.hyatt.com).

NEW AND NOTABLE

Australia’s best-known export is

arguably a certain boot, but as the

country’s lifestyle products become

ever more luxurious, the famously

ugly sheepskin boot looks set to be

eclipsed by a glamorous new rival.

Launched by the Australian Luxe

Collective, a “responsible luxury”

brand set up by husband and wife

team Nicole Durand and Stuart Rush

in Melbourne, the new boots are just

as seductively comfortable to slide

a foot into but considerably more

alluring, decorated with fringing,

beading and fur. Available in men’s

styles too, from £190 to £400

(shown, left) at Net-a-Porter (0800

044 5701, net-a-porter.com).

Eco-luxe in NitmilukThe Northern Territory’s vast Nitmiluk National Park offers plenty for visitors keen to explore the

wilder wonders of this extraordinary continent. Next May, in Nitmiluk Gorge, a maze of waterways

sculpted over the millennia by the Katherine River, Cicada Eco Lodge opens – an 18-room joint

venture between the local Jawoyn people and Indigenous Business Australia that promises a

way-it-was cultural experience in an untouched landscape – but with mod cons. en.travelnt.com

Paradise now extra niceOn Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef, the forested, beach-fringed slice of paradise that is

Hayman Island is the most awarded five-star resort in Australia – and the remotest spot in

the Reef’s Whitsunday Islands. Recently reopened after cyclone damage forced temporary

closure, Hayman now has extra-glamorous additions to its famously luxurious rooms, suites

and penthouses: eight new beach villas, each with its own pool, uninterrupted views of the

Coral Sea, and – one would expect no less – 24-hour butler service. hayman.com.au

Bliss boots

Valley of many flavoursTwo hours from Sydney or

Canberra, in 120 acres of forest,

Kangaroo Valley is known as one

of the most beautiful valleys in

Australia. Its farmers are certainly

some of the best-organised: they’ve

got together to devise The Foodies

Trail, a day-long food and wine route

that takes visitors by private car or

minibus through the picturesque

landcape, visiting local producers

and sampling flavour-packed

locally-made gourmet goodies

from cheeses, wines, olives,

honeys and jams to rustic pies

and traditional fudges and toffees.

flavoursofthevalley.com.au

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arcey Bussell, Britain’s most

acclaimed ballerina, was born in London in

1969. After joining the Royal Ballet School at the

relatively late age of 13, she was given her first

principal role, in The Prince of the Pagodas, while

still at school. Aged 20, at the Royal Ballet, she

became the youngest dancer ever to be made its

principal ballerina, dancing lead roles in ballets

including The Nutcracker and Sleeping Beauty.

Since retiring in 2007, at 38, she has been a judge

on Strictly Come Dancing, written children’s ballet

books, and produced a dancewear line.

In 2008 she moved to Sydney with her Australian

husband – the banker Angus Forbes – and

daughters Phoebe (10) and Zoe (seven).

How often do you travel?

I go to Europe quite a lot because of work. My

parents live in France, so I go there with the family

once or twice a year – and of course, since

I moved to Australia, I’ve got to know it well.

I grew up travelling. My dad, who was Australian,

took us to America a lot, doing house-swaps and

visiting Florida. Then, when I was with the Royal

Ballet, we used to do a big overseas tour each

year: I celebrated my 18th birthday in Japan.

Have you explored much of Australia?

Yes. The lovely thing is that it’s still quite raw,

natural and unpopulated, and there is so much

to see. We’ve just been up to Port Douglas, in

North Queensland: very tropical, great beaches.

We saw crocodiles and went out to the Barrier

Reef. We’ve also done some memorable short

trips out of Sydney: to Kangaroo Valley, about two

hours south, which has wonderful walking trails

thousands of years old; and to the Hunter Valley

wine region, which is really lush. When English

friends come out they are always surprised by

how green the countryside is. They also expect

the Outback to begin just outside Sydney!

Where are you going next?

Travelling to Australia from Europe gives you great

opportunities for stopovers in Asia. I visited Japan

and China as a dancer, and I’d really like to visit

the Philippines and some of the smaller islands.

And I haven’t even been to New Zealand yet,

which is ridiculous, given it’s so close to Sydney.

Do you travel much as a family?

Yes. I do really believe that travel is a great way

to open children’s minds and to teach them to

appreciate new landscapes and cultures.

Your idea of a perfect family holiday?

Train journeys are really amazing for children,

because you can get up and move around while

travelling and also see so much of a country.

When the girls were very young, we took the train

across America – from New York to Seattle. It

was just two nights, with a stopover in Chicago,

but they thought it was wonderful. They still love

flying, of course, but that long train journey was

a real eye-opener. There are some great train trips

to be done in Australia – the Indian Pacific route,

from Sydney to Perth, takes about 65 hours and is

one of the longest train journeys in the world.

Do you travel light?

I’m an expert at living out of a suitcase. Our

tours [with the Royal Ballet] would last for seven

weeks, often going through very different climatic

conditions. So I had to plan very efficiently – and

leave room to buy clothes while we were away,

especially in Japan and China, where shopping is

such an essential part of the cultural experience.

What do you always pack?

A raincoat, due to having grown up in England!

I’m not really an iPod kind of person; even if I have

one with me, I prefer to take in the sights and

sounds around me. But I always take some good

reading material and, like everyone else, I always

travel with a laptop. I like to take my own toiletries

and because I am conscious of waste and hate

taking big bottles; I have small travelling bottles

which I can refill. I also take a little travel pack

so I can wash some of my clothes by hand.

Handbag essentials?

Lip balms and hand creams. When you travel,

especially on planes, your skin tends to get very

dry. I always have a bottle of water with me, too,

plus some chewing gum and a nail file.

Do you enjoy active holidays?

My husband is a mad keen sailor, and living in

Sydney means we sail on Sydney Harbour quite

regularly. But I’ve done some yachting in the

Mediterranean and would love to go back and sail

around Sicily. That’s a dream of mine.

What do you crave in a trip?

I love the ocean – although I don’t have to be

a beach babe. And I like views. So if there are

mountains, water and a bit of culture – also

essential – then that’s my perfect holiday.

Do you look for simplicity or luxury?

A bit of both, really. We often stay in holiday

apartments, something really simple with a little

kitchenette, but close to everything. We’ve also

hired a Winnebago for a week. We drove from

Sydney up the east coast of New South Wales

to Byron Bay, which is about 430 miles along the

Pacific Highway through some pretty amazing

landscapes: seaside towns, forest, sand dunes,

farmland, rivers, and everything becoming

more tropical as you get closer to Byron Bay.

The facilities on-board a Winnebago are

phenomenal, but driving one is among the

scariest things I have ever done, especially

going around a really small roundabout!

Are you an adventurer?

Yes – and being a Londoner and totally English,

I feel fortunate that we’ve been able to cross

the world and live in a country that lets you

experience so many new things. I think we’re all

getting a bit safe these days. You need to test

yourself. But I don’t need daredevil thrills.

Your favourite city?

Sydney is great – I like living in a city where you

don’t have to drive everywhere. Other favourites

are New York, Barcelona, St Petersburg and

Copenhagen. I do like a city with greenery, so

another love is San Francisco. But as a Londoner,

I have to say my absolute favourite is London.

Your most romantic hotel?

The Mandarin Oriental in New York. It’s in the

most amazing spot, overlooking Central Park. You

enter on the 35th floor, so the views are fantastic.

Interview by Mark Chipperfield

TRAVELLING LIFE Darcey BussellThe Australian-based ballerina on crocodile-spotting, vineyard visits, and trying to steer a Winnebago

D‘English friends expect the Outback to begin just outside Sydney!’

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To find out more about why there’s

nothing like Australia and to plan your next

holiday, visit Australia.com

visit: australia.com

There’s nothing like following a local guide.

It didn’t matter that we were underwater; I was holding my

breath anyway. When you fi nd yourself face to face with such

a magnifi cent creature, there’s not much else you can do. I

grinned. I pinched myself. Then I tried my best to keep up as he

introduced me to his friends.

Just when you think you’re getting used to the wonders of our

west coast, you dive headfi rst into an underwater playground.

Ningaloo Reef is mind blowing, a sanctuary of coral gardens,

teaming with bottlenose dolphins, dugongs, manta rays and a

kaleidoscope of coral fi sh. I ’ll defi nitely be back here again. And I ’m

sure, if you make your way out here, you’ll fi nd yourself coming

back for more.

THE INFINITE POWER OF REGENERATIONww

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