august 2011 nolitours guide to cuba

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A DESTINATION GUIDE SUPPLEMENT TO THE AUGUST 2011 ISSUE OF Beaches, Beaches Havana Culture Colonial Masterpieces Natural Wonders Water Fun Guide to Cuba

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It doesn’t get any more real than Cuba.An intoxicating blend of culture, cuisine,history, adventure, wildlife, nightlifeand, of course, stunning beaches oncrystal waters, the country is the placefor an authentic Caribbean experience.

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Page 1: August 2011 Nolitours Guide to Cuba

A DestinAtion GuiDe supplement to the AuGust 2011 issue of

Beaches, BeachesHavana Culture

Colonial Masterpieces

Natural WondersWater Fun

Guide to Cuba

Page 2: August 2011 Nolitours Guide to Cuba

AIR TRANSAT: DIRECT FLIGHTS TO CUBA

Forget about connector flights to Vancouver, Toronto or Montreal! Air Transat offers your clients the flexibility they want with direct flights from most Canadian gateways.

Starting nov. 1, 2011 Direct flights to Cuba from: Calgary, Edmonton, Regina, Winnipeg, Thunder Bay, Hamilton, Quebec City, St. John’s and other cities.

WELCOME ON BOARD!

oPtion PLUS An Economy Class option with loads of advantages and priority services to help passengers save time: priority check-in and baggage handling, a 10kg excess baggage allowance, seat selection and many more privileges!

KiDS CLUB Faster check-in and priority baggage delivery make travelling easier for families! Free membership for children ages 2 to 11 residing in Canada.

CLUB CLaSS Refined comfort and personalized service. Travellers enjoy exclusive privileges such as a dedicated check-in counter, a spacious cabin with wider, leather seats, a choice of fine wines and much more!

AIR-11-0679 Canada - Canadian Traveller (Guide Cuba).indd 1 6/29/11 9:37:46 AM

Page 3: August 2011 Nolitours Guide to Cuba

AIR TRANSAT: DIRECT FLIGHTS TO CUBA

Forget about connector flights to Vancouver, Toronto or Montreal! Air Transat offers your clients the flexibility they want with direct flights from most Canadian gateways.

Starting nov. 1, 2011 Direct flights to Cuba from: Calgary, Edmonton, Regina, Winnipeg, Thunder Bay, Hamilton, Quebec City, St. John’s and other cities.

WELCOME ON BOARD!

oPtion PLUS An Economy Class option with loads of advantages and priority services to help passengers save time: priority check-in and baggage handling, a 10kg excess baggage allowance, seat selection and many more privileges!

KiDS CLUB Faster check-in and priority baggage delivery make travelling easier for families! Free membership for children ages 2 to 11 residing in Canada.

CLUB CLaSS Refined comfort and personalized service. Travellers enjoy exclusive privileges such as a dedicated check-in counter, a spacious cabin with wider, leather seats, a choice of fine wines and much more!

AIR-11-0679 Canada - Canadian Traveller (Guide Cuba).indd 1 6/29/11 9:37:46 AM

N� � o� s. New C� o� s. New Look. New Se� � . Fun destinations, lively resorts, sun-splashed beaches and amazing vacations at unbelievable prices!

Cuba. Always hotBirthplace of salsa and mambo, Cuba is a sure crowd pleaser. Heavenly beaches, fabulous excursions, exciting water sports, a fascinating history and that incomparable Cuban charm provide the perfect backdrop for a fun-fi lled vacation!

O� De� � � i� s Cayo Coco & Cayo Guillermo

Cayo Largo

Cayo Santa Maria

Havana (Duos with Varadero)

Holguin

Santa Lucia

Santiago de Cuba

Varadero

For details, see the Nolitours Sun 2011-2012 brochure or visit nolitours.com 2011-2012

Departures from Montreal, Quebec City, Bagotville, Rouyn-Noranda & Ottawa

Colombia

Costa Rica

Cuba

Dominican Republic

El SalvadorJamaica

Mexico

Nicaragua

Panama

Venezuela

NOL-11-0673 CANADIAN_TRAVELLER_cuba.indd 1 6/30/11 11:41:15 AM

Page 4: August 2011 Nolitours Guide to Cuba

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The Authentic Caribbean

It doesn’t get any more real than Cuba. An intoxicating blend of culture, cuisine, history, adventure, wildlife, nightlife and, of course, stunning beaches on crystal waters, the country is the place for an authentic Caribbean experience.

Take the cuisine. Time-honoured recipes have cre-ated a mouth-watering array of national dishes that reflect Spanish, African and indigenous influences, and include lechón (roast pork), fried green plan-tains (tachinos, chatinos or tostones), black beans, congrí (rice with red beans), moros y cristianos (rice with black beans), picadillo a la habanera (ground beef in tomato sauce), roast chicken and tamales, as well as ajiaco, a stew of assorted root vegetables cooked with pork, poultry or beef that is the national dish.

don’t forget the cocktails. Cuba’s famous cocktails – the mojito, Cuba libre and the daiquiri – are based on Cuba’s famous rums. White rum is best for mixing, while gold and aged rums are better for sipping.

History is alive in the architecture and tradi-tions of colonial cities like Trinidad, Cienfuegos, Baracoa, Camaguey, Santiago de Cuba, Bayamo and remedios, one of Cuba’s oldest settlements.

And then there is Havana, an amazing place for fine dining at paladares, dancing at local nightclubs, hot bar-hopping along the Calle Obispo, high cul-ture at an array of galleries, museums and perform-ing arts venues and some of the friendliest folks in the Caribbean. Cruise the city in vintage cabs, take a city tour, stroll along the malecon; there is always something to see and someone to meet.

Out in the countryside, Cuba is blessed with an abundance of natural beauty. in fact, four per cent of the world’s land species live here, including three of the smallest: the pygmy frog, the bee hummingbird and the butterfly bat. There are magnificent parks to hike, bike and ride through, several of which are pro-tected as bio-reserves. explore the remains of coffee plantations, or indigenous camp sites.

Water adventures are endless, and diving is amazing in these waters. Unmatched visibility, diversity and sites attract people from all over the world. Many resorts offer lessons and certification. On the waves, sailing, windsurfing and para-sailing get the blood pumping. For a more tranquil experi-ence, there are kayaks, paddleboats and a quick dip in the sea.

it’s all here in the real Cuba, the authentic Caribbean.

World Heritage Sites In Cuba• The Historic Centre of Old Havana and its System of

Colonial Fortifications (1982)• Trinidad and the Valle de los Ingenios (1988)• San Pedro de la Roca (1997)• Desenbarco del Granma National Park (1999)• Archaeological Landscape of the first coffee plantations on the

southeast of Cuba (2000)• La Tumba Francesa, declared a masterpiece of the World

Cultural Heritage (2000)• Alejandro de Humboldt National Park (2001)• Historic Centre of Cienfuegos (2005)• Historic Centre of Camaguey (2008)

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201-2080 Hartley AvenueCoquitlam, BC Canada V3K 6W5

Tel: (604) 699-9990Fax: (604) 699-9993Printed in Canada

CUBA – A SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT TO THE AUGUST 2011 ISSUE OF CANADIAN TRAVELLER

Cover Photo Credit: NolitoursPublished 12 times a year by

Contents © 2011 by ACT Communications Inc.All Rights Reserved. ISBN 1207-1463

InsideIt’s AlwAys sunny In CubA 4

CAptIvAtIng ColonIAl towns 10

A FeAst For the senses 16

wAter, wAter everywhere 20

nAture At Its FInest 22

Page 6: August 2011 Nolitours Guide to Cuba

By Merle rosenstein

Cuba welcomed a record 945,000 Canadian sun seekers in 2010. With many must-do activities across the island, it’s clear why Canadians love Cuba. And after touring historical buildings in Old Havana, sampling cigars along the Route of Tobacco, and hiking in the forests of Pinar del Rio, sun worshippers head for Cuba’s beautiful beaches. Like Cuban dance and music styles, beaches across the island are many and varied. So let’s take a tour of some of Cuba’s hottest sun spots beginning with the best known – Varadero.

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VaraderoCuba’s premier beach destination, varadero or Playa Azul in Matanzas province is 134 kilometres from Havana. This 21-kilometre strip of sparkling white sand on the Hicacos Peninsula juts out into the crystal clear Atlantic. A string of hotels backs onto the flat expanse of beach, and bars and other amenities are within shouting distance.

But varadero is not just a place to chill in the sand. visitors to varadero can jump on jet skis at the marina on the Bay of Cardenas, dive among shipwrecks and trop-ical fish in Cayo Piedra Underwater Park, or play a round of golf at the varadero Golf Club with its intricate system of lagoons. Centre Plaza América, an international con-vention centre, has shopping malls, restau-rants and amusement centres. Adventure seekers won’t want to miss Bellamar Cave, deep in the cliff overlooking Matanzas Bay, one of the Caribbean’s largest and most beautiful underground formations.

For the young and young at heart, cabarets, variety shows and live music make nighttime in varadero something to savour.

HolguinHolguin, a rugged mountainous region in northeastern Cuba, boasts 350 kilometres of coastline and 41 white-sand beaches. The many species of plants and trees and wide variety of fish and birds make Holguin attractive for ecotourism. Best beaches include Guardalavaca, Playa Esmeralda and Cayo Saetia.

Guardalavaca Beach: Guardalavaca Beach faces the Atlantic Ocean 54 kilome-tres northeast of Holguin Province, with 1.5 kilometres of powdery white sand surrounded by lush vegetation. The clear waters and coral reefs support many species of marine life such as barracuda, sword-fish, peacock fish and Spanish mackerel. excellent underwater visibility allows for top-notch diving and exploration of under-water caves.

playa esmeralda: Surrounded by cliffs and an abundance of plant life, the crescent-shaped Playa Esmeralda frames deep green waters and has thick coral reefs. This 900-metre long beach, five kilometres east of Guardalavaca is perfect for water play such as diving, snorkelling, windsurfing, catamaran sailing or sail-boarding. An aquarium in nearby Bahia de Naranjo Natural reserve offers swimming with dolphins.

Cayo saetia: Situated on Nipe Bay, the tiny island of Cayo Saetia extends 42 kilometres across 12 small beaches. With a high concentration of forest, the secluded beaches support a wide array of wildlife. Unique to this island are brown rock formations scattered along the shore. This wilderness area is home to native and

exotic animals such as wild boars, buffalos, ostriches, peacocks, zebras, antelopes, cane rats, wild bulls and tocororo birds.

Cayo Largo del SurCayo largo del Sur, one of the largest of 300 cayos and islets of the los Canarreos Archipelago, lies on the Caribbean Sea, 177 kilometres south of Havana. Strips of virgin beach with sun-bleached sand and warm crystal clear water extend for 27 kilometres. This tranquil island gives off a laid-back vibe and is clothing optional. iguanas, chelonian, pelicans and herons make their homes on Cayo Largo. A 35-kilometre coral reef is home to black coral and underwater enthu-siasts appreciate more than 30 diving sites and an international diving centre.

Jardines del ReyThese tiny islands off the Atlantic coast of Cuba, 177 kilometres from Havana, inspired ernest Hemingway’s well-known novels Islands in the Stream and The Old Man and the Sea. The islands of Jardines del rey are a nature-lover’s paradise and are home to flamingos and roseate spoonbills. A 27-kilo-metre causeway links the islands to the mainland province of Ciego de Avila, Cuba’s

agricultural district. A 402-kilometre coral reef, second in size only to the Great Barrier reef, makes the islands of Jardines del rey ideal for snorkelling and diving. Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo are two hot spots.

Cayo Coco: Cayo Coco, a 22-kilometre stretch of beach, boasts mangroves and more than 200 species of birds. Four diving centres and 20 diving sites provide ample opportunity for divers to view many variet-ies of sea life such as parrotfish, grunts, yel-lowtail snappers, queen angelfish, anemo-nes and spiny lobster.

Cayo Guillermo: ernest Hemingway spent a lot of time on Cayo Guillermo dur-ing the Second World War, fishing in the crystal clear waters in his boat Pilar. This 13.2 square-kilometre island boasts three and a half kilometres of beaches and the tallest sand dunes in the Caribbean islands.

Cayos Of Villa ClaraThe Cayos of villa Clara lie off the northern coast of Villa Clara Province with more than 17 kilometres of untouched beach property, newly opened to tourists. Most popular among these beaches are Cayo Santa Maria and Las Brujas. ‘El Pedraplen’, a 48-kilometre causeway, joins Cayo Santa Maria, las Brujas and ensenachos Cayos to the mainland.

Cayo santa maria: The newest beach destination in Cuba is 13 kilometres long and up to two kilometres wide, with plenty of open beach for visitors to explore. Part of the UNeSCO Biosphere reserve, Cayo Santa Maria has no permanent residents and remains a charming island paradise with clean white sandy beaches, shallow clear water, stunning natural scenery and an abundance of diverse wildlife. Birds on the island include anhingas, seagulls, flamingos, woodpeckers, hawks and the tocororo, the national bird of Cuba. The little island is also home to numerous species of reptiles.

On Cayo Santa Maria, outdoor enthu-siasts can snorkel, dive to find an amazing variety of fish lurking in the coral formations or go hiking. Other active pursuits are wind-surfing, swimming, sailing, deep-sea fishing, speed boat racing and water-skiing. And his-tory buffs enjoy exploring the ancient caves.

Puebla La Estrella is an outdoor shop-ping, dining and amusement centre next to Barcelo Cayo Santa Maria. The Puebla, operated by Gaviota, has nine restaurants, four bars, a bowling alley, coffee shops, a spa, a cigar shop, a gym and a disco. The restaurants offer fine dining in an elegant atmosphere. Special spa packages are avail-able for couples. At the Bar literario, live music is played every night. A shuttle takes visitors to and from their hotels.

las Brujas: This tiny islet treasure boasts exquisite white sand and warm azure water. Bridges built over 1.6 kilometres of beach are there to allow animals free move-ment and to protect the environment. ,

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Cameleon Club Exclusive advantagesBook your Cameleon vacation before October 31, 2011 and save

$100 per room

Colour Me Cameleon! Fun, fun and more fun! That’s what you get when you go on a Cameleon vacation. You’ll enjoy a lively atmosphere, an irresistible array of activities, great entertainment and exclusive advantages, including separate check-in, a dedicated room location, a bottle of rum and much more. Take your pick of hotels and enjoy the comforts of 3 to 4.5-star accommodation. All at a price you’ll love. Now, that’s a smart way to travel!

For details, see the Nolitours Sun 2011-2012 brochure or visit nolitours.com 2011-2012

Departures from Montreal, Quebec City, Bagotville, Rouyn-Noranda & Ottawa

Colombia

Costa Rica

Cuba

Dominican Republic

El SalvadorJamaica

Mexico

Nicaragua

Panama

Venezuela

NOL-11-0674 CANADIAN_TRAVELLER_cuba_Final.indd 1 7/4/11 1:47:18 PM

Page 10: August 2011 Nolitours Guide to Cuba

By Judi lees

Those who think Cuba is all about beaches and mojitos need to think

again. True, this finger of an island located in the Caribbean just south of Florida boasts myriad silvery beaches

but it is also a virtual outdoor museum of colonial towns and cities. A visit to Cuba should include exploration of some of its historical sites, many

of which are well lauded as they are among the country’s nine listings on

UNESCO’s World Heritage sites.

Captivating Colonial Towns

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TrinidadTake Trinidad. declared a World Heritage site in 1988, it is renowned for its splen-did, well-preserved colonial architecture. The historic city centre covers 55 blocks and includes more than 1,200 buildings. As visitors meander along the cobbled streets a tapestry of history unfolds. Weathered facades have a majestic beauty enhanced by wrought iron detail and heavy wooden doors. The pastel-coloured homes are typified by red terracotta roofs and some elaborate brick work.

Founded in 1514, Trinidad is among Cuba’s oldest cities. The historic heart of the city is Plaza Mayor which is also the location of the town’s famous museums, housed in what once were the wealthy landowners’ homes. Most of these buildings date from the 18th and 19th centuries when this region was affluent thanks to the sugar plantations in nearby valle de los ingenios.

Trinidad is dubbed “the museum city”, visitors can spend hours in this picturesque plaza lined by the Museum of Colonial Architecture, the Museum of Anthropology Guamuhaya and the romantic Museum. The latter is housed in the Brunet Palace that features a balus-trade courtyard, frescoes and the original marble floor dating back to 1812. historic town square, trinidad

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Cienfuegoslocated on the southern coast, Cienfuegos’ nickname, Pearl of the South, hints at its beauty thanks to its location at the entrance of Cienfuegos Bay. its remarkable collection of Neoclassic buildings is also believed to be the best in the Caribbean.

The city was settled by the French in 1819, led by don louis de Clouet, a wealthy businessman from louisiana who promoted the region that became affluent thanks to crops of sugar, citrus fruits, cattle and coffee. The French influence along with these same exports from the province of Cienfuegos still remain today and coupled with its rich cultural background make Cienfuegos a must-see.

Broad and majestic streets lead to Marti Park, an idyllic place to pass time as well as to admire the sights. A granite compass marks where the first French settlers began building the city and it boasts Cuba’s only ‘Arco de Triunfo’. The perimeter of this picturesque park is lined with impressive and well-restored structures including

government buildings, the Terry Theatre, Purisima Concepcion Cathedral, Town Hall and Ferrer Palace. Be impressed by the cathedral’s exquisite stained glass windows. Perhaps most eye-catching is Ferrer Palace, constructed by a wealthy Catalan, Jose Ferrer Sires, it boasts an elaborate balcony overlooking the park.

don’t miss Jacqua Fortress, at the entrance to the bay, which was erected by the Spanish king Philip V in the 1740s. The fortress was built to repel attacks from pirates. visitors will enjoy a small museum that exhibits information about this early-day castle-like fortress.

In 2005, Cienfuegos was added to the UNeSCO World Heritage list.

BaracoaTalk about a claim to fame, Baracoa is believed to be where Christopher Columbus first landed in 1492. He wrote in his logbook that it was “the most beautiful place in the world” – pretty high praise. Today Baracoa still lives up to these plaudits

for many. Set on a remote northeastern shoreline, the colonial village sits in lush rainforest and is edged by pristine beaches. its most famous landmark is el Yunque, a distinctive table-topped hill.

Founded in 1511 by the first governor of Cuba, the Spanish conquistador diego Velázquez de Cuéllar, Baracoa is the oldest Spanish settlement in Cuba and was its first capital; it is also known as Ciudad Primera, “First City”.

When in this historic town, it is a rite of passage to stroll the Malecon. A shorter version of the famed one in Havana, it leads to a park with a statue of Christopher Columbus that is hand-hewn out of a huge tree stump. legend has it that Columbus put a cross, ‘Cruz de la Parra’ in the sands of what is now the Baracoa Harbour.

At the small church with the long name, ‘Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion’ the wooden cross – or what is left of it – can be viewed. Worshippers apparently take pieces off the cross and while it has been carbon dated to the time of Columbus, it is also indicated that it did not come from europe. in any case, it is all that exists of the 29 crosses that the explorer erected in the new world.

CamagueyCamaguey is the capital of Cuba’s largest province of the same name. it is the coun-try’s third largest city but quite possibly one of its least known; a shame because it is culturally rich and a delight to explore. its maze of narrow streets, said to be the nar-rowest in Cuba, were deliberately designed to confuse pirates.

it was founded in the 16th century (there is no definite date as Spanish records are scarce), and the oldest building is believed to be the cathedral that dates back to 1530, two years before Havana was declared the capital.

Attractions include the Principal Theatre, built in 1850, the Puerto Principe Cemetery, the country’s oldest dated at 1814, the ignacio Agramonte Museum that features history and decorative arts and the Amalia Simoni Manor that showcases art and furniture.

in addition to the labyrinth of snaking streets, the city is characterized by the number of large public squares such as Ignacio Agramonte Park that was originally Arms Square, created in 1528 and San Juan de dios Square built in the 18th century.

law forbids that houses be white so the residences of Camaguey offer a kaleido-scope of brilliant colours. The Spaniards were influenced by Moorish design that is evident in the architecture, and many houses have unusual Moorish screens. Tinajon, large earthenware jars used to

Ignacio Agramonte park, Camaguey

Catedral de nuestra señora de la Asuncion, baracoa

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collect rainwater are seen on pretty court-yards of the houses, another distinguishing feature of this intriguing city.

Santiago de CubaCradled between the brilliant waters of the Caribbean and the towering Sierra Maestra Mountains on the southeast coast, Santiago de Cuba boasts culture and history along with its scenic setting. Founded in 1514, it was the country’s capital from 1522 to 1553 and thanks to myriad ethnic influ-ences over the ages, today it is renowned for its historical sites, culture (especially music) and friendly inhabitants.

The Fortress of San Pedro de la Roca, one of its famous sights, sits high on a hill-side just outside the city. it was constructed between 1638 and 1700 as protection from pirates. in 1662, english sea robbers took over Santiago for two weeks, looting and destroying sections of the fortification that were then rebuilt. it has been well restored

and was declared a UNeSCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1997.

On January 1, 1959 Fidel Castro made his famous announcement that the revolution was successful at the Town Hall which dates from the 18th century. Along with the Municipal House of Culture and the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago de Cuba, it is an example of the city’s elegant and ornate historic buildings.

The beautifully restored Hotel Casa Grande is a place to see and be seen. it overlooks Parque Cespedes, the heart of the city where Cubans meet and enjoy some of the music that the city is famous for. A visit to the Tropicana Santiago Nightclub shows off the glamour and liveliness of Santiago. its Carnival, held in July, is a huge celebration as it typifies the variety of musical influences here.

BayamoFounded in 1513, the colonial city of Bayamo was the second of seven

settlements established by Governor diego velazquez. it was here that the national anthem was first sung on October 20, 1868 and on January 12, 1869 the citizens burned their city to prevent the Spaniards from occupying it. These events, as well as others, determined Bayamo as the cradle of Cuban nationality and it has been declared a national monument.

visitors can explore this city that has a reputation for being laid-back and hassle-free on a horse and buggy ride, a Bayamo tradition. visit the home of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes, recognized as the father of the nation as he was the first to free slaves and he fought for Cuban independence. Other sights include the San Salvador de Bayama Parish Church, Himno (National Anthem) Square, revolution Square, Cuban Nationality House, Museo Nico lopez and iglesia Mayor de San Salvador. it was at the latter church that the anthem was sung and a plaque commemorates this. A mural depicts the blessing of the flag by Cespedes. Don’t miss Parque Cespedes, a relaxing square with a wealth of grand monuments and large, leafy trees.

Remedioslocated on the north coast and founded in 1514, Remedios is one of the country’s oldest settlements and is a well-preserved colonial town known for its tranquility and pleasant inhabitants. visitors can gather with the locals at Plaza Mayor (Central Plaza) to enjoy the monuments, leafy walkways, gazebo and the surrounding colonial buildings.

A highlight among remedios’ colonial architectural gems is the grand church, iglesia Mayor of San Juan Bautista on the plaza; it has an intriguing story to tell. The church was renovated between 1944 and 1954 and a discovery was made. It seems that in early days the city was taken over by pirates and gold was hidden under the painted altar. Today beautifully decorated gold altars can be seen in this grand church.

remedios is the birthplace of the Parrandas Festival that takes place on december 24 and is now celebrated in many places in the world. Considered Cuba’s oldest festival, it began when the priest of iglesia Mayor was concerned about the absence of worshippers at midnight mass. He encouraged children to go out on the streets and make noise with horns and tin cans to stir people up and lead them to mass. In 1871 the ‘par-randas’ became a recognized festival and part of the Christmas tradition. visitors can learn more about this lively festival at the Museum of Parrandas which opened in the 19th century. ,

Metropolitan Cathedral, santiago de Cuba

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Havana may be physically decaying from decades of isolation and neglect, but Cuba’s feisty capital is anything but crumbling when it comes to nightlife, cuisine and cultural attractions.

A Feast For The Senses

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Page 17: August 2011 Nolitours Guide to Cuba

Overwhelmingly Catholic, yet wrapped in a communist straightjacket, Havana is surpris-ingly liberal, laid-back and unabashedly sensual. it also has more than its fair share of internationally acclaimed cultural institu-tions, including the National Ballet of Cuba, House of the Américas, Foundation of New latin American Film and National Folkloric dance Group.

But it’s this remarkably resilient latin American city’s legendary nightlife that keeps even the most energetic visitor stimu-lated. Toss in some of the Caribbean’s finest cuisine – best sampled at unofficial restau-rants operating in private homes called paladares – and you have an intoxicating recipe for a truly unique and unforgettable travel experience.

Prior to Fidel Castro’s 1959 revolution, Havana was one of the Caribbean’s pre-miere vacation destinations for Americans, notorious as a gambling getaway for

the rich and infamous. For the past half century, however, the US government’s travel ban on this communist stronghold a mere 144 kilometres from Miami has meant relatively few American visitors and a near total absence of the consumer culture that inevitably follows them. The result is a unique and – for visitors, at least – refresh-ing sense of travelling back through time to a bygone era.

But experiencing the real la Habana isn’t just about cigars, cheap run or cruising in old American cars. Nor is it watching the waves breaking on the famous boulevard el Malecon, an eight-kilometre-long seafront promenade with stunning views of the bay that is transformed in the evenings into a long open-air theatre. Or catching touristy dance variety shows at the Tropicana Caberet. To really experience the best of Havana’s culture and nightlife, you have to go to the musical and gastronomic source.

Savour The Sounds Of A Bygone EraTo truly understand where Cuba’s famous music came from, head for Havana’s historic music halls and clubs. Particularly legendary is el Gato Tuerto, once a popular hangout for famous writers and singers back in the decadent 50s, and now a hot spot for bolero, featuring first-rate artists. For a real nostalgia trip, check out the Salón 1930 ‘Compay Segundo’. Home of the original Buena vista Social Club, made famous in Wim Wenders’ 1996 film, this glamorous ballroom is still a must-see if you’re into watching master musicians play-ing with real panache.

Salón 1930 is the cultural centrepiece of the landmark Hotel Nacional, the location of choice for the rich and famous since it first opened in 1930. everyone from Winston Churchill to Al Capone has stayed

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here, and no doubt enjoyed a sunset rum-infused cocktail at the hotel bar la Terraza, with its spectacular views of the Malecón.

Follow The Rhythms Of The Nightit’s hard to escape live music in Havana, from the buskers along the cobbled streets of la Habana vieja (the Old Town) to the incredibly talented musicians performing in small, neighbourhood bars and cafés. The city’s nightlife scene is divided roughly between touristic la Habana vieja and the many lively bars and clubs located in the more upscale districts of vedado and Miramar.

Packed with bars, tango houses and cultural centres, Havana vieja is a great place to hear authentic Cuban music. Many establishments occupy beautifully restored colonial era buildings that were collectively designated a UNeSCO world heritage site in 1982. For bar-hopping, head for the main strip of Calle Obispo, where you’re also likely to encounter groups of street musicians, or even a carnival procession, while salsa, son and hip-hop-inspired reg-gae blares from every doorway. Or, if you prefer to slip on your dancing shoes and join the party, head for el Cafe Taberna, Havana’s very first café (opened 1772), and now a celebrated salsa school where you can drop in any time for lessons.

in vedado, don’t miss el Gato Tuerto, an eccentric, intimate live music venue featur-ing Cuban bolero. renovated in 2010, this one-of-a-kind nightspot features a first-rate selection of leading Cuban singers, often with several top names performing on the same night. Miramar’s la Casa de la Música is another popular favourite, partly because it attracts a large number of foreign dance academy students during high season, when you’ll never be short of eager dance partners.

Taste Authentic Home-Style CuisineHavana’s best food is served at privately-run restaurants, known as paladares. Most are small, family-run enterprises that serve creative variations on traditional Cuban dishes like pork with Caribbean rice and beans. The more upscale among them offer everything from eggplant caviar with red pepper coulis and variations on red snapper to freshly fried chicharrones (pork rinds), baked chicken asado, barbecued lamb and stewed rabbit. A good selection of beer and wine is also available.

Illegal until 1995, paladares offer a refreshing alternative to state-run estab-lishments. dining at these often fascinat-ing establishments also offers visitors the opportunity to experience Havana neighbourhoods never seen on tours and visit private homes, some of which are

grandiose and elaborately furnished rem-nants of the pre-communist era.

Among the most popular paladares are la Guarida, the setting for the Oscar nomi-nated film Strawberry and Chocolate, and la Divina Pastora, located on the other side of Havana Bay, which offers a spectacular city view. Other favourites include la Cocina de lilliam, set amid a romantically lit garden, and restaurante Gringo viejo, tarted up to resemble a speakeasy, complete with a large movie poster of Gregory Peck, who starred as the eponymous Old Gringo.

Enjoy Genuine Warmth & CivilityHabaneros, as the citizens of Havana are called, are famous for their hospitality, ingenuity and resilience in the face of seem-ingly endless hardship. Spend even a few days among them and you can’t help but be impressed by their indomitable spirit of optimism. Sure, there are the legions of sly hustlers and unsavoury touts found any-where in the world that depends on tourist income for survival. But in this economi-cally poor yet artistically rich time warp of a town, the earthy authenticity of its people will undoubtedly remain a source of inspira-tion long after the salsa bands have stopped playing, the sensual dancers have stopped mesmerizing, the paladares have shut down and that last mojito has been drunk.,

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national ballet of Cuba

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You’ll live a truly privileged travel experience in our select city hotels and exotic beach resorts when you choose Royal Service. Exclusivity, elegance and exquisite service. Private à la carte restaurants, swimming pool, Jacuzzi and butler service. Royal Service is a hotel within the hotel, with highly personalized attention and superior comfort. The ideal place for our most refi ned guests!

Royal ServiceCombined Luxury

CUBA

La HabanaVaradero Cayo Santa María

HolguínPlaya Esmeralda

Santiago de Cuba

LA HABANA Meliá Cohiba I Meliá Habana SANTIAGO DE CUBA Meliá Santiago de Cuba

CAYO SANTA MARÍA Meliá Buenavista VARADERO Paradisus Varadero I Paradisus Princesa del Mar

HOLGUÍN Paradisus Río de Oro.

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An island with spectacular beaches and constant warm temperatures, Cuba is the place to find fun in, on and under the water. Resorts boast all manner of water toys and activities, from pool noodles to parasailing. The sporting menu also includes windsurfing, kite boarding, sea kayking, and of course, swimming and beachcombing.

Under WaterThousands of vibrant underwater species, fabulous topography and unusual wrecks – you really can’t find a better place to snorkel and dive than Cuba.

Take the plunge and discover unpolluted waters with terrific visibility and more than 500 varieties of fish, crustaceans, sponges, mollusks and coral.

There are also wrecks of 17th- and 18th-century Spanish galleons to explore. CAriSUB, a Cuban marine archaeological organization, charters salvage tours of such sites around Cuba.

Cuba’s 30 dive centres provide packages for everyone, from novices to pros. Some also offer certification as well as courses in marine photography, night diving and other interests. Most centres are near hotels and resorts, and have equipment for rent.

Main Dive Sites• Los Canarreos Archipelago: Has 56 designated dive sites at Puertosol Colony international Scuba Centre and Cayo largo del Sur.• Guanahacabibes Peninsula: Access to more than 50 dive sites from María La Gorda international Scuba Centre.

• Havana: Has 72 scuba sites available through four international diving centres. immersion area is more than 100 kilometres long and three kilometres wide. • Santa Lucía: An extensive coral reef just off this beach resort has 34 designated dive points and numerous shipwrecks.• Varadero: Has more than 25 diving sites. Especially popular is the Cayo Piedras del Norte underwater park, where old yachts, frigates and planes have been delib-erately sunk for recreational exploration.• Playa Girón: The top attraction here is the sheer drop off the island’s underwater platform.

AUGUST 2011 CANAdiAN TrAveller 36

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Water, Water Everywhere

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• Northern coast of Holguín: More than 20 dive sites are located just off esmeralda and Guardalavaca beaches.• Ancón Peninsula: This area’s two well-defined dive sites are Ancón and Cayo Blanco de Casilda.• Santiago de Cuba: Scuba centres operate out of Baconao Park (Sigua and Bucanero) and Guamá municipality. Site of the Caribbean’s best preserved sunken ship, the Spanish warship Cristóbal Colón.• Jardines del Rey: in Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, coral reefs offer attractive underwater landscapes.

On The WaterSailors have raved about Cuban waters since Christopher Columbus dropped anchor in 1492 and declared the island “the most beautiful land human eyes have seen”. ernest Hemingway spent three decades cruising around the Cuban cays in his fish-ing boat, the Pilar, then immortalized them in his novels, The Old Man and the Sea and Islands in the Stream. And Fidel Castro sailed the Cuban seas in his cabin cruiser, the Granma. The country’s coastline is marked by 200 sheltered bays, more than 4,000 cays and islets and 588 kilometres of beach.

Anglers head to the fishing hotspots of Maspotón (Pinar del Río), Tesoro Lake (Península de Zapata), Rancho Hatuey and Zaza (Sancti Spíritus), La Redonda and La Leche lakes (Ciego de Ávila), Porvenir, Muñoz and Santa Ana (Camagüey), and viramas (Granma). Your travel agent can make the arrangements through Cuban tourism agencies Cubanacán S.A., Gaviota S.A. and Hoteles Horizontes S.A. every February, Horizontes organizes an inter-national black bass fishing tournament, alternating between Zaza and La Redonda reservoirs. ,

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Kayaking, santa lucia

Diving lessons, varadero

Cayo Coco

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Nature-lovers love Cuba with its well-preserved ecosystems, amazing array of landscapes and abundance of flora and fauna. Cuba is home to more than 6,700 species of higher plants (about half of which are native), as well as 14,000 species of invertebrates and 650 vertebrates – including 350 bird species.

Take a walk through lush tropical forests, where rare orchids grow; dry mountainous areas, where prehistoric cacti still live; ever-glades populated by mangrove, manatee and flamingoes; wetlands harbouring spe-cies important to biotechnology; and hum-mocks that guard fossillized plants such as the cork palm (Microcycascalocoma).

And it’s all so easy to see. The country boasts more than 100 nature trails and hik-ing paths. Main hiking routes are well signed, and professional guides are available.

Nature At Its Finest

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Did You Know?• Cuba is home to three of the small-est species of animals in the world: the sunsuncito or bee hummingbird (6 cm); the pygmy frog or sapito (12 mm); and the butterfly bat (3 cm).• The oldest species of mollusk in the world, the calcifolio, is found in viñales. it lives by sticking to limestone rocks and feeds from the fungi that covers them.• The manjuari, considered to be a living fossil, is a prehistoric fish with the body of a fish and the head of a reptile and is one of the most primitive vertebrates on the planet.• The Palma Corcho is considered to be a living plant fossil and it can only be found in Pinar del Rio. • One of the largest species of flowers, the solandra grandiflora, is a native of Cuba. Its 15-20 cm yellow to white flowers are shaped like a chalice. ,

Where To Go• Guaniguanico Mountain Range: Noted for unusual rock formations sur-rounding the UNeSCO World Heritage site of valle de viñales.• Sierra del Rosario (biosphere reserve): Houses Soroa-las Terrazas and the Santo Tomás cave system.• Guanahacabibes Peninsula National Park (biosphere reserve): Protected areas include La Guabina and Mil Cumbres.• Zapata Peninsula Nature Park (biosphere reserve): Features Caleta Buena, Playa Girón and Playa Larga; laguna del Tesoro and the Amerindian village of Guamá; and la Boca croco-dile farm.• Guamuhaya Mountain Range: Home to Topes de Collantes Tourism Complex, El Nicho and Tunas, Zaza and lebrige wild animal preserves.• Sierra de Cubitas: Stretches from El Paso de los Paredones to Hoyo de Bonet to Cayo Ballenatos, in Nuevitas Bay, and the protected area in the northern Camagüey cays.• Northern Holguín: Offers tours to scenic Guardalavaca-estero Ciego and Pinares de Mayarí National Park.• Sierra Maestra: Famous for its historical hideouts, this area spans desembarco del Granma National Park, Pico Turquino National Park, Santo domingo-la Sierrita, Marea del Portillo (including Las Yaguas and Cilantro rivers).• Baconao National Park (bio-sphere reserve): Houses la Gran Piedra, ruins of the island’s first French coffee plantations.• Baracoa: The place where Christopher Columbus first set foot in Cuba remains relatively untouched by civilization. The area is marked by Alejandro de Humboldt National Park; Yunque de Baracoa; Toa, Miel and Yumurí rivers; and Maguana beach.

sunsuncito, or bee hummingbird.

guamá, Ameriindian village, Zapata peninsula nature park.

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VARADERO: IBEROSTAR VARADERO • IBEROSTAR TAINOS • IBEROSTAR LAGUNA AZUL • IBEROSTAR PLAYA ALAMEDA • CAYO GUILLERMO: IBEROSTAR DAIQUIRI • CAYO COCO: IBEROSTAR CAYO COCO CAYO ENSENACHOS: IBEROSTAR ENSENACHOS • TRINIDAD: IBEROSTAR GRAND HOTEL TRINIDAD.

Cuba is an exclusive destination because of its natural beauty, people, culture and history. A place that stars can not miss. Now with three new Iberostar hotels: Iberostar Parque Central, a 5 stars hotel located on city´s heart, ideal for business and relax, the perfect start to discover the mythical Havana. Iberostar Cayo Ensenachos and Iberostar Cayo Coco, both located in the north keys of the island, ideal to enjoy exuberant beaches. A luxury only within reach of the stars …Stars like you .

Iberostar Parque Central ***** Iberostar Ensenachos ***** Iberostar Cayo Coco *****

Playa Iberostar Varadero, Cuba

Iberostar new stars shining in Cuba.

“Stars are always at the right place and time.”

Enjoy being a star

Page 24: August 2011 Nolitours Guide to Cuba

Say Hello to Having it All.

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*Stay at one play at two promotion excludes Barceló Habana Ciudad and Barceló Marina Palace. Other restrictions may apply.

Barceló Santa Maria Cayo Beach & Colonial Resort

Barceló Cayo Santa Maria Beach & Colonial Resort

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