atv setup

8/7/2019 ATV setup

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If you're anything like me, you will have compiled an endlesswish list before your new ATV even touches dirt: stuff like a new pipe,

cool graphics and gnarly new tires-anything to go faster, climb higher

or just look better than your buddies is priority numberone.Unfortunately, in our rush to accessorize, the simple yet most

effective improvements in performance, such as suspension tuning andproper jetting, are easily overlooked. Two items that don't always cost

hundreds of dollars can make noticeable differences. A little know-how

can work wonders here.

We'll ignore jetting this time and just focus on suspension-an area in

which most folks will admit they are in over their heads as soon as thesubject is mentioned. So that means the suspension on a new machine

is never given any attention and remains in the default (often Pogo-

stick-like) factory settings. Why the horrendous settings? With an ATVmanufacturer trying to accommodate such a wide range of different

skill levels, weights and particular uses, they are forced to compromiseand go with a middle ground setup. Good if you match that middle

ground, but bad if you are like the rest of us and remain outside that

narrow window of performance. Thus, it's left to the owner to makethe necessary adjustments. Although the stock shocks on many of

today's performance sport models are fully adjustable, don't bealarmed if you can't get them dialed to your exact specifications. There

are other issues to be dealt with, such as valving and spring rates to

reach the optimum setting.

Simply bolting on an aftermarket suspension component will not solve

the problem either, although the systems are typically assembled toorder with a rider's detailed information thrown into the equation toyield phenomenal results. And even after maxing out that Visa in the

quest for suspension supremacy, those new XYZ shocks are still goingto need some adjustment.

So whether your baby is sporting stock equipment or big-dollar

boingers, spending an afternoon with this instructional aid, a spannerwrench and a flat-blade screwdriver should put you one step closer to

world domination-or at least ahead of the pack at your next ATVouting.

Skill LevelMedium. Able to clean and oil air filter without spilling sticky oil all overgarage.

Tools Required

Slotted (common, blade) screwdriver, Allen key (depending on yourshocks), preload wrench or a dead blow hammer and a shock preload

adjusting tool (looks like a heavy-duty screwdriver).

http://atvrider.automotive.com/2644/0708-atvp-suspension-setup/index.html#%23

http://atvrider.automotive.com/2644/0708-atvp-suspension-setup/index.html#%23

8/7/2019 ATV setup


Time2-3 hours, with some riding involved.

SummaryMost folks take a couple of hours to refine their settings. If you arewrench-challenged, maybe leave this for a professional.

Suspension LingoWhether you choose to pilot a thoroughbred racer or cruise the farm

on your trusty pack mule makes no difference. You need to know and

understand suspension terminology before you can unleash yourmachine's full potential and achieve the ride you desire.

Preload is the amount of tension placed on the spring to increase or

decrease the stiffness of the shock; this is also used to achieve themachine's proper ride height.

Compression regulates the flow of the oil in the shock, which in turn,

controls the amount of damping the shock provides.Rebound is just as it sounds and controls the rate in which the shock

returns to its full, upright position.

Valving refers to the orifice and valve stack through which the oil flowswhen the shock is being damped. This determines the amount of

adjustment permitted by the compression adjustment. Oil movementgenerates heat, and heat diminishes performance, so the goal is to

minimize oil movement while obtaining proper compression.

Ride height is the distance between the bottom of the frame at thefootpeg and the ground. This height is greatly determined by the

intended use of the quad (a flat track racer would seek a much lowerride height than that of a trail rider), but in stock form, extremechanges will not be possible.

Sag will be found in the form of free sag (free travel in the rear shockwithout a rider) and race sag (free travel in the rear shock with a rider

aboard).

Rake is the angle of the centerline in the steering stem from theperpendicular of the center line of the front axle, measured in degrees.

...>>next page

1. Begin by lifting the rear of the machine completely off the groundand loosening the double lock rings until there is no pressure on thespring. At this point, there is no preload on the spring, and ride height

is at its lowest possible position. Turning the adjusting ring out threeto four complete rotations is a good starting point for a stock rear

shock. This puts minimal preload and can typically soften a very stiff

shock.

http://atvrider.automotive.com/2644/0708-atvp-suspension-setup/instructions.html

http://atvrider.automotive.com/2644/0708-atvp-suspension-setup/instructions.html

8/7/2019 ATV setup


2. The next step is to determine the amount of free sag by measuringthe distance from the ground to the grab bar in this raised position and

then in its natural-state at-rest position. The difference in the twomeasurements should equal around 10 percent of the total of shock

travel amount. For example, a shock with 10 inches of travel should

provide around 1 inch of free sag. To increase the sag, simply reducethe spring tension, and add tension to the spring for less sag. Note:

We did this with a single-shock sport model; an IRS model will requireyou modify the process, using Step 4 with these numbers.

3. Now, repeat this step with the rider (time to enlist a buddy to man

the tape measure) on the machine to get the proper race sag. Thisshould equal around one-third of the total shock travel. For the same

shock with 10 inches of travel, this would equal 3.33 inches of sag.

Race sag is more critical than the free sag, so adjust to achieve correctrider sag, even if this means slightly altering the free sag.

4. Done with the rear shock(s). The next step is to adjust the preloadon the front shocks. This is done in the same manner as the rear, by

lifting the machine off the ground and loosening the double locking

rings. The front shocks must have identical settings for obviousreasons. So loosen the tension on the springs until they are both free-

floating, and then count the complete turns of the locking rings whencompressing. The goal here is to gain between level and a half inch of

rake at the flat point of the frame just behind the rear A-arm mount

and the ground over the height of the frame at the pegs. The sweetspot varies with each brand of machine due to a different center of

gravity. A good rule to remember is that the more rake or the higherthe frame at the front of the machine, the more traction there is at the

rear (center of gravity is shifted toward the rear). This also lightensthe front end, limiting the machine's ability to slide in turns, so you

must determine the height that best suits your machine and riding

style.

5. Adjusting the compression is the next step bringing us closer tosmooth sailing. The compression adjustment is typically a screw or

knob located at the top of the shock or on the nitrogen reservoir(never at the shaft end of the shock). Rotating the screw clockwise

adds compression or stiffens the shock and vice versa. You want toadjust the compression to allow full use of the shock travel, while

preventing the shock from bottoming. It is inevitable that you will, on

occasion, bottom out your shocks, so don't panic; it shows that youare using the full range of travel that the shock provides. However, if

bottoming is common, the compression is too soft and needs furtheradjustment.

http://atvrider.automotive.com/2644/0708-atvp-suspension-setup/instructions.html#%23

http://atvrider.automotive.com/2644/0708-atvp-suspension-setup/instructions.html#%23

8/7/2019 ATV setup


6. The ride height is set and compression is adjusted, so now it's timeto address the rebound. At the shock's shaft end you will find a collar

or screw that controls the speed at which the shock returns to itsextended position. This works similarly to the compression screw;

clockwise (turn in) speeds up rebound and counterclockwise (turn out)

slows rebound. Too fast a rebound makes the shock return out like apogo-often with a violent punch. Conversely, if the rebound is too

slow, the shock won't have adequate time to return, causing the shockto pack up. This is most noticeable in a series of whoops or a rock

garden, where multiple impacts occur immediately after one another.

Each time the shock compresses, it moves too slowly to fully extend,and the travel becomes shorter and shorter, eventually resulting in no

suspension and a thud of kick as it ricochets off the next obstacle. Thetrick is finding the spot at which it's neither too fast nor slow, but just

right. It won't be as easy as Goldilocks finding the perfect bed, but

along the same lines. Starting close to the stock position is good, butexperiment with two to three clicks at a time to see what works for

you.

8/7/2019 ATV setup


atv setup

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