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Saturday, July 25, 2015An Advertising Feature of

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Jaime Hancock Garden Column – 2The power of succulents – 3

Eco-friendly pest control in the garden – 7His/Hers/Ours – Creating the cohesive home – 8

TCJ Pin of the Week – 13

2 | Saturday, July 25, 2015 | The Topeka Capital-Journal | At Home

“She is such a peach!” She has a peaches and cream complexion. Peachy keen! We do love our peaches. So much so we use their descriptions to express delight and approval of our fellow man (usually wom-en). We come from a long line of peach lovers. The Chinese from 1000 B.C. wrote of the favored fruit of the emperors, the peach. Tradesmen carried peach seeds to the Middle East and the Mediterranean by way of the Silk Road, a 2,500 mile trade route from East Asia to ancient Persia (present day Iran) earning them the bo-tanical name Prunus persica. Alexander the Great conquered Persia and brought peaches to the Greeks around 322 B.C. By 50 to 20 B.C the Romans grew and sold

peaches for the modern equivalent of $4.50! The Romans transported peaches north and west to other parts of their em-pire.

The Spanish brought peaches to South America. Columbus carried them to America on his second and third voyages. The French established peaches in Loui-siana and the English took them to Jame-stown and Massachusetts colonies. Peach-es readily naturalized in Spanish colonies in St. Augustine, Florida. So much so that they were thought to be a native plant.

Thomas Jefferson had peaches at Mon-ticello in 1802 and home orchards in the south before the Civil War (1861-65) were increasing in number. Raphael Moses, a

planter and Confederate officer was one of the first to ship and sell peaches outside of Georgia. “His method of shipping peaches in champagne baskets, rather than in pul-verized charcoal, helped to preserve the flavor of the fruit and contribute to his success.” According to the New Georgia Encyclopedia. The first Georgia peaches shipped to New York markets happened between 1858 and 1860. Wagons carried them to Augusta, then a shallow-draft boat to Savannah, and then by steamship to New York. The peach industry increased with the abolition of slavery. Farmers were forced to find alternatives to the la-bor-intensive cotton crop. Georgia earned HANCOCK continues on 4A

A Note FromThe Gardener

[email protected]

Jamie Hancock

Peach season is upon us

At Home | The Topeka Capital-Journal | Saturday, July 25, 2015 | 3

By Jenni HarrisonSpecial to The Capital-Journal

Ah succulents. My definition would be something like:

1. easy to grow plants that don’t need much attention, allowing the owner to slide through care with ease.

2. highly addictive.There are many positives when it comes

to selecting succulents to grace your plant-ers, pots and gardens whether indoors or out. Succulents can be a palette for the am-ateur artist since they can grow in almost anything. They are easy to maintain and can be purchased for reasonable prices. They come in a variety of looks, textures, shapes and colors.

CreativityThat old container that you just don’t

know what to do with may be the perfect start for a beautiful garden. I scavenged through my home and found several items worthy of planting succulent gardens in, items that have otherwise been useless for the last several decades. Rusted muf-fin pan. Turquoise refrigerator drawer. Chamber pot. Small pitcher. Diaper pail. And then there was the bird feeder that the birds refused to use. None of these

SUCCULENTS continues on 5A

The power of succulents

JENNi HArriSoN/SpECiAL To THE CApiTAL-JoUrNAL

This little leaf has begun growing roots at the top.


its “Peach State” designation during the three decades following the Civil War.

Samuel H. Rumph discovered a new peach variety in 1870 that he named for his wife Elberta. This yellow-flesh peach was of superior quality and shipped better

than previous varieties. The Elberta peach led the industry until 1960 when newer va-rieties were introduced like J.H.Hale and Belle.

Today we have two basic types of peach-es, clingstone and freestone. The flesh of “Cling” peaches clings tightly to the stone or pit. It is not likely that you will buy

fresh cling peaches. The canning industry usually takes them ripe from the field and processes them within 24 hours of pick-ing. Freestone flesh pulls away from the pit rather easily.

When looking to find ripe peaches look not at the blush coloring but at the area close to the stem. It will be greenish or

creamy yellow. Green indicates that the peach has been picked to far before they are prime to ripen properly. Peaches and nectarines are sold as if they were differ-ent fruit but, they are actually the same species. One is fuzzy (peaches) and one is not (nectarines).

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Hancock: Two kinds of peaches


items have drainage holes so I used loose gravel to cover the bottom, followed by a special blend of cactus soil when plant-ing. When choosing a container, smaller ones are great for single plantings, larger are a good means to mix multiple types of plants. With all of the possibilities for succulents, the best thing of all is that you can have fun while growing your garden. What container will you use?

Sun placementSucculents are very forgiving. When

it comes to busy day-to-day life, that’s a requirement of any plant in my house. Indoor succulents need several hours of sunlight every day. Keep them as close to a window as possible, but watch for sun-burn. Mine seem to thrive in the eastern and southern parts of my house. When outdoors, allow them to have as much as

4 hours of sun per day, keeping them out of direct sunlight for the remainder. I keep mine on the north side of the house where they receive some morning and late eve-ning sun but are still shaded when the sun is most brutal.

Watering is simpleDuring the summer, water indoor suc-

culents when the soil is dry. For my out-door succulents, a small splash of water every couple of days seems to keep them happy, I just make sure the soil doesn’t get soggy. Just remember that it is best to under water a succulent than over water. During the winter, water every two weeks or so. I’ve gone months without watering some of mine, like aloes, and once sum-mer returns, they bounce back and start growing quickly. This is what I mean by “forgiving”. Since their water is stored in

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Succulents: The forgiving plant

JENNi HArriSoN/SpECiAL To THE CApiTAL-JoUrNAL

Succulents growing in an old refrigerator drawer, a pitcher, a chamber pot and a pyrex cooking dish.


leaves and stems, they don’t require the same maintenance that regular house-plants need. If planting a vertical garden, skip the cactus mix potting soil and choose to grow your succulents directly in sphag-num moss. My now hanging muffin pan is packed full of sphagnum moss to hold the plants in place. Sphagnum moss does dry out more quickly than soil so frequent wa-tering may be required.

InexpensiveSucculents can be found around town at

the different nurseries, big box and grocery stores. I found a unique variety in some of the locally owned stores such as Jackson’s and Skinner’s. The price for succulents starts around $3 and goes up depending on the type of succulent and store. Cac-tus soil, sphagnum moss and river gravel should cost no more than twenty dollars and will last through several plantings. As for containers, these can be inexpensive too. I found a small Enamelware pan at a local antique store for $2. Garage sales are

another good place to look for inexpensive containers to plant in.

PropagatingBy collecting leaves from your plants

you can produce more, growing your gar-den into even more succulents. Detailed instructions are available online but the process seems simple enough by first re-moving a leaf, drying it out for a minimum of three days before watering and eventu-ally placing it on soil where the leaf will begin to grow roots. Multiplying your original purchase! You can’t go wrong with that.

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Succulents: Propagating plants

Jenni HArrison/speciAl to tHe cApitAl-JournAl

Succulents growing in an old muffin tin, an antique diaper pail, and an enamelware


By Melinda MyersGardening Columnist and TV/Radio Host

Spots on tomatoes, holes in hosta leaves and wilting stems mean insects and dis-eases have moved into the garden. Don’t let these intruders reduce the beauty and productivity of your landscape. Work in concert with nature to prevent and control these pests and you will be rewarded with a bountiful harvest and landscape filled with beautiful blooms.

Monitor. Take regular walks through the landscape. Not only is it good exercise, but it will improve your mood and you’ll discover problems earlier when they are easier to control. Look for discolored leaves, spots, holes and wilting. Inspect the underside of the leaves and along the stems to uncover the cause of the prob-lem.

Identify. Once you discover a problem, identify the culprit. Your local extension service, garden center or reliable internet resource can help. Once identified, you can plan the best way to manage the cul-prit.

Invite the Good Guys. Toads, lady bee-tles and birds help control many garden pests. Attract them to the garden by plant-ing herbs and flowers to attract beneficial insects, adding a house for the toads, and birdbath for songbirds. Avoid using pesti-cides and learn to tolerate a bit of damage. A few aphids or caterpillars will bring in the ladybeetles, lacewings, birds and toads that are looking for a meal.

Clean up. Many insects and diseases can be managed and prevented with a bit of garden cleanup. A strong blast of water from the garden hose will dislodge aphids and mites, reducing their damage to a tol-

erable level. Or knock leaf-eating beetles and other larger insects off the plants and into a can of soapy water.

Pick off discolored leaves, prune off diseased stems and destroy. Be sure to disinfect tools with 70% alcohol or one part bleach to nine parts water solution between cuts. This will reduce the risk of spreading the disease when pruning in-fected plants.

Adjust care. Reduce the spread and risk of further problems by adjusting your maintenance strategies. Avoid overhead and nighttime watering that can increase the risk of disease. Use an organic nitro-gen fertilizer like Milorganite (milorgan-ite.com) which encourages slow steady growth that is less susceptible to insect and disease attacks.

Mulch the soil with shredded leaves, ev-ergreen needles or woodchips. This will keep roots cool and moist during drought,

improve the soil as they decompose, and also prevent soil borne diseases from splashing onto and infecting the plants.

Non-chemical Controls. If the prob-lems continue, try some non-chemical op-tions for insects. A yellow bowl filled with soapy water can attract aphids, a shallow can filled with beer and sunk in the ground will manage slugs, and crumpled paper under a flower pot for earwigs are just a few ways to trap and kill these pests.

Or cover the plants with floating row covers. These fabrics allow air, light and water through, but prevent insects like bean beetles and cabbage worms from reaching and damaging the plants.

Organic products. Organic products like insecticidal soap, Neem, horticulture oil and Bacillus thuringiensis can be used to control specific pests. And even though

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Eco-friendly pest control in the garden


By Shanna SloyerSpecial to The Capital-Journal

For Topeka residents Scott Barkemeyer and Sarah Swoboda, 2015 has been a year of change. They got engaged, adopted their second dog, and moved into their first home together. The couple plans to marry next May and recently set up residence in the College Hill neighborhood, where they have learned that navigating one another’s tastes in home décor is one of many firsts in the art of learning to compromise.

“I told her she could do almost all of the decorating in the house, except for the man cave,” said Barkemeyer. “The man cave fell through, so now I get to do the back bedroom in sports.”

Barkemeyer prefers modern furniture and sports-inspired décor, while Swoboda is drawn to antique, vintage and repur-posed pieces. Her go-to spots for furniture purchases include the NOTO Arts district, Craigslist, and thrift stores.

“I like furniture with a lot of charac-ter,” said Swoboda. “Since Scott said that I could decorate the house, unless he has a strong objection, I just do it.”

In the living room, Barkemeyer and Swo-boda started fresh, choosing to store her college futon in favor of purchasing two couches together. In shades of chocolate brown and teal, they chose jewel tones to accent the room. The addition of a brown, teal and purple rug, as well as teal window

coverings tie the furniture together and give the room a cohesive look.

A painted, distressed buffet, which Swo-boda found and purchased off of Craigslist, offers a clear division between entryway and living room, and provides extra stor-age space. An end table, discovered at Vin-tage Vibe in the NOTO Arts district is the newest addition to the space, although it came as a surprise to at least one resident of the house.

“One day I came home and was eating on the couch,” said Barkemeyer. “I looked over and noticed a new table.”

Both Barkemeyer and Swoboda brought dining sets to their new home. Swoboda’s dining table was purchased several years ago from an antique store, and the chairs were added later, giving the set a mix-and-match quality. They opted to use Barke-meyer’s more modern glass-top table and wicker chair set on their outdoor, covered porch, keeping the antique set indoors.

With their home a work in progress, the couple has plans for future projects, including a 1940s-era pie safe that they plan to finish and use in the dining area, as well as decorating Barkemeyer’s sports memorabilia room. Swoboda also intends to build a headboard out of repurposed shutters and hang a salvaged windowpane that will serve as a photo collage in the master bedroom.

HOME continues on 9A

His/Hers/Ours - Creating the cohesive home


Home: - Blending your homes

“A house should look like it has evolved over the years,” said designer Chris Grandmontagne, co-owner of Warehouse 414. She of-fers the following suggestions for couples just beginning the processes of blending households:

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Rex Wolf/SpeciAl to the cApitAl-JouRnAl

Left Page, left to right: The painted, distressed buffet creates a clear division between the entry and the living room. Top: Sarah Swoboda’s antique dining table with the mix/match chairs. Bottom: Scott Barkemeyer’s glass dining table with wicker chairs created a welcoming spot to set on the covered porch. Above: The couches the couple chose to purchase together to make the living space “ours”.

1. identify pieces that are valuable or sentimental.Furniture that is very valuable or has significant meaning to a couple can be worked into any design scheme. A professional designer can help with incorporating these items into your new home.

2. Avoid matching sets of furniture.Instead, mix and match pieces that come from both of your homes. Grand-montagne suggests choosing pieces that you love or are unwilling to part with from each room. For example, use an upholstered headboard that belonged to her, and pair it with a dresser from his bedroom set.

3. pay attention to functionality and scaleChoose furniture that is functional, as well as attractive. Sell or toss items that are impractical or uncomfortable. Pair items that compliment one another and are of similar sizes. For example, avoid pairing a huge couch with tiny end tables.

4. Be comfortable blending stylesGrandmontagne reminds us that it’s okay to mix styles, but she suggests treating all rooms in the house the same way. For example, modern furni-ture can be paired with antique pieces if it’s done throughout the house. Choose one or two new pieces that will tie existing furniture together. This could include a throw pillow, a piece of art or other accessory.

5. Don’t be afraid to start overPull just a few existing pieces of furniture and then start fresh with new pieces. Many designers offer consignment furniture options that are budget-friendly.

6. consider hiring a professionalWhen a couple has trouble agreeing on a design concept, a designer can help by giving both parties a little of what they’re looking for and by explain-ing why certain things need to be done. A professional acts as a neutral third party and can help with blending styles more seamlessly.


these are organic, they are designed to kill insects or disease organisms, so be sure to read and follow label directions carefully.

Take Note. Make notes on the problems and solutions in this season’s garden. Refer to these next year to help you do a better job of monitoring and managing garden pests. And when shopping for new plants, select the right plant for the location and choose resistant varieties whenever pos-sible.

A little eco-friendly gardening can go a long way in creating a beautiful and pro-

ductive garden.

Gardening expert, TV/radio host, author & columnist Melinda Myers has more than 30 years of horticulture experience and has written over 20 gardening books, including Can’t Miss Small Space Gardening and the Midwest Gardener’s Handbook. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything: Food Gardening for Everyone” DVD set and the nationally syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV and radio segments. Myers is also a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms magazine. Myers’ web site, www.melindamyers.com, features gardening videos, podcasts, photo galleries and monthly tips.

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Pest: Take Note

MelindA Myers,llC

Floating row covers allow air, light and water through, but prevent insects like bean beetles and cabbage worms from reaching and damaging the plants.


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The Topeka Capital-Journal Pin of the Week


Planting and caring for peachesThere are several varieties of peaches

that will grow in Kansas but, be careful not to plant them in low-lying areas which tend to be colder on frosty nights. In gen-eral dwarfing rootstock should not be used because of their lack of winter hardiness.

Peaches like a wide variety of soils but, must be well drained and a pH of 6 to 6.5. The ideal planting time is late March to mid April. Holes should be two feet wid-er than the spread of the trees roots and deep enough to contain the roots (usually 18” deep).

Peach trees need to be pruned to an

open vase shape. This is accomplished by several years of careful pruning (see KSU publication C631). Proper pruning allows light penetration within the tree which is necessary for development of fruit buds and production of large, highly-colored peaches.

Fertilize peaches about once a month af-ter planting using ½ cup of 12-12-12 fertil-izer or something similar in a circular pat-tern about 6 inches from the trunk. After the first year, a good general recommen-dation is to use 1 pound of 12-12-12 per year of tree age. Apply in spring before growth begins. Broadcast in a circular pattern un-der the drip line of the outer branches.

Peaches, with rare exceptions, are self

pollinating and therefore do not require a second tree or cultivar for pollination.

Thinning fruit is necessary on most va-rieties. Only 10 percent of the flowers are needed to set fruit for the tree to have a full crop load. One peach or nectarine tree is plenty for a family. A mature tree can produce 120-150 pounds of peaches! Fail-ure to hand-thin will result in very small fruit and broken tree limbs.

Peach trees rarely live more that 10 or 12 years because of their susceptibility to low winter temperatures, diseases, and pests. Proper fertilizing, pruning, irrigating and spraying are keys to a good harvest. Late spring frosts can be devastating to fruit production if blooms are damaged.

If you would like to grow a peach tree or learn more about caring for your tree see the KSU publication C592, Fruit Pest Con-trol for Home Gardens online at www.ksre.ksu.edu or at the Extension office, 1740 SW Western Ave.

Note: The Master Gardener Response Line is open 1-4:30 pm for your gardening questions. Walk-ins are welcome. Keep this number in a handy place. (785) 357-4769.Note: The Shawnee County Extension Master Gar-deners will present “Fall Lawn Care” at the Topeka/Shawnee County Public Library at 7:00 PM on August 13. Make a note on your calendar.

Jamie Hancock is a horticulturist with Kansas State Research and Extension in Shawnee County.

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Hancock: Growing peaches in Kansas

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