at 7:30 in the morning, mike nardolillo is already hard at work. mike, a self- proclaimed “...

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At 7:30 in the morning, Mike Nardolillo is already hard at work. Mike, a self-proclaimed “carboholic”, is the unlikely owner of Provencal Bakery in Middletown, Rhode Island. He assumed ownership of the small storefront after trying his hand at a wood flooring business and a used car lot, ultimately deciding to follow his gut, literally. “I always had a passion for food. I wake up in the morning and think about what I’m having for dinner.”

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At 7:30 in the morning, Mike Nardolillo is already hard at work. Mike, a self-proclaimed “carboholic”, is the unlikely owner of Provencal Bakery in Middletown, Rhode Island. He assumed ownership of the small storefront after trying his hand at a wood flooring business and a used car lot, ultimately deciding to follow his gut, literally. “I always had a passion for food. I wake up in the morning and think about what I’m having for dinner.”

At 7:30 in the morning, Mike Nardolillo is already hard at work. Mike, a self-proclaimed “carboholic”, is the unlikely owner of Provencal Bakery in Middletown, Rhode Island. He assumed ownership of the small storefront after trying his hand at a wood flooring business and a used car lot, ultimately deciding to follow his gut, literally. “I always had a passion for food. I wake up in the morning and think about what I’m having for dinner.”

Now in his third year baking, Mike has proved he is a natural, building his bakery into a statewide supplier and a local giant. Its proximity to the thriving tourist town of Newport, RI has heightened its popularity among summer vacationers and cemented its place in the community of Aquidneck Island, on which Newport, Middletown and Portsmouth are found. The local community takes pride in the tradition Provencal Bakery has become and in its commitment to excellence experienced by those who have become familiar with its quality, consistency, and superiority.

Nearly a half-hour later, Mike continues adding the ingredients that make up the dough into a giant mixing bowl. He is alone in the bakery at this time of day, every day. The mixing process is unique to Provencal’s breads, and Mike wishes to keep it as secretive as possible. “It’s why our breads are so good. A lot of work goes into making them the way they are, and the way we mix it is special. He adds jokingly, “They keep coming back for more, and don’t think that this white powdery stuff everywhere has nothing to do with it!”

Nearly a half-hour later, Mike continues adding the ingredients that make up the dough into a giant mixing bowl. He is alone in the bakery at this time of day, every day. The mixing process is unique to Provencal’s breads, and Mike wishes to keep it as secretive as possible. “It’s why our breads are so good. A lot of work goes into making them the way they are, and the way we mix it is special. He adds jokingly, “They keep coming back for more, and don’t think that this white powdery stuff everywhere has nothing to do with it!”

Although the dough is special, the ingredients used are mostly those that could be found in the average kitchen. The dough is made with flour, water, salt, yeast, and one other special ingredient. Each ingredient is weighed before added keeping with Mike’s rhythmic beat, save the pre-measured fifty-pound sac of flour. It is clear that this has become routine.

Although the dough is special, the ingredients used are mostly those that could be found in the average kitchen. The dough is made with flour, water, salt, yeast, and one other special ingredient. Each ingredient is weighed before added keeping with Mike’s rhythmic beat, save the pre-measured fifty-pound sac of flour. It is clear that this has become routine.

The enormous quantity of mixed dough is then transferred into oversized garbage cans that have been slightly oiled to prevent sticking. These large containers, though somewhat disturbing, are perfect for holding the dough until it is ready to be formed. The bins are usually placed near the preheated oven to keep warm. The dough will rest allowing the bacteria in the yeast to activate which causes the bread to rise. The additional heat from the oven quickens these actions. This process, known as proofing, is so related to the quality of the bread that it will be repeated in the following step.

The enormous quantity of mixed dough is then transferred into oversized garbage cans that have been slightly oiled to prevent sticking. These large containers, though somewhat disturbing, are perfect for holding the dough until it is ready to be formed. The bins are usually placed near the preheated oven to keep warm. The dough will rest allowing the bacteria in the yeast to activate which causes the bread to rise. The additional heat from the oven quickens these actions. This process, known as proofing, is so related to the quality of the bread that it will be repeated in the following step.

The next step in the process is the formation of the loaves and rolls. On a floured wooden table, Mike works with only two employees to form each loaf or roll by hand. Dan is one of these employees and has worked at Provencal for five years. He serves as second-in-command, and is entrusted with great responsibility, mainly that of the last step: baking the bread.

The next step in the process is the formation of the loaves and rolls. On a floured wooden table, Mike works with only two employees to form each loaf or roll by hand. Dan is one of these employees and has worked at Provencal for five years. He serves as second-in-command, and is entrusted with great responsibility, mainly that of the last step: baking the bread.

To ensure a level of uniformity and proper sizing, the dough must be weighed. While Mike portions off the dough, the other employees form the loaves. Because each loaf and roll is formed by hand, this lengthy process often yields breads with slightly varied appearance from another loaf or roll of the same kind.

To ensure a level of uniformity and proper sizing, the dough must be weighed. While Mike portions off the dough, the other employees form the loaves. Because each loaf and roll is formed by hand, this lengthy process often yields breads with slightly varied appearance from another loaf or roll of the same kind.

The dinner rolls that Mike sells exclusively to 22 Bowens, the acclaimed restaurant located on Newport’s Bowens Wharf, are one of his specialty items. These custom rolls are filled with just the right amount of cranberries and are topped with toasted oats. Mike takes this time to say they are planning on investing in a roll-making machine that would help to greatly reduce the time spent forming them individually by hand.

The dinner rolls that Mike sells exclusively to 22 Bowens, the acclaimed restaurant located on Newport’s Bowens Wharf, are one of his specialty items. These custom rolls are filled with just the right amount of cranberries and are topped with toasted oats. Mike takes this time to say they are planning on investing in a roll-making machine that would help to greatly reduce the time spent forming them individually by hand.

Mike finishes forming the dough and gives the others a break. He does work very hard to keep the business doing as well as it is presently. The rising cost of fuel and flour has affected the prices over the past few years, but customers have stayed loyal, giving Mike hope for whatever is to come.

Mike finishes forming the dough and gives the others a break. He does work very hard to keep the business doing as well as it is presently. The rising cost of fuel and flour has affected the prices over the past few years, but customers have stayed loyal, giving Mike hope for whatever is to come.

Once the team has portioned and formed all the dough, the loaves and rolls are set to rest all around on metal racks and large plastic boards and on the wooden tables. There is dough all around the bakery now, draped in thin plastic so it will not dry out, strewn over every free space. There is the country loaf, a Provencal loaf indigenous to the southeastern region of France which shares its name, a whole wheat loaf, baguettes, sourdough, rye, asiago loaf, a cranberry pecan loaf, an apricot walnut bread, a multi-grain loaf topped with sunflower seeds, and many others that are part of Provencal’s unique repertoire.

Once the team has portioned and formed all the dough, the loaves and rolls are set to rest all around on metal racks and large plastic boards and on the wooden tables. There is dough all around the bakery now, draped in thin plastic so it will not dry out, strewn over every free space. There is the country loaf, a Provencal loaf indigenous to the southeastern region of France which shares its name, a whole wheat loaf, baguettes, sourdough, rye, asiago loaf, a cranberry pecan loaf, an apricot walnut bread, a multi-grain loaf topped with sunflower seeds, and many others that are part of Provencal’s unique repertoire.

Executive Chef Chris DePerro of the Fifth Element, a restaurant where bar meets grill meets classic bistro, immediately recognized the quality of Mike’s breads, and showcases them in a variety of ways in the restaurant. “I like to get dramatic long cuts on the baguettes then I brush them with infused herbal oil before I grill them and set them on top of our red wine and tomato steamed mussels.” DePerro also stresses the importance of local foods, and custom-ordered a smaller version of Provencal’s namesake loaf for the Fifth Element’s hamburger buns.

Executive Chef Chris DePerro of the Fifth Element, a restaurant where bar meets grill meets classic bistro, immediately recognized the quality of Mike’s breads, and showcases them in a variety of ways in the restaurant. “I like to get dramatic long cuts on the baguettes then I brush them with infused herbal oil before I grill them and set them on top of our red wine and tomato steamed mussels.” DePerro also stresses the importance of local foods, and custom-ordered a smaller version of Provencal’s namesake loaf for the Fifth Element’s hamburger buns.

Chef DePerro is not alone in his assessment of Mike’s carefully crafted breads. Café Zelda has been a Newport tradition for over 100 years, and owners Tom and Roxanne Callahan swear by Provencal’s bread. Mrs. Callahan says, “We've gone through a lot of different places over the years to get our bread, but theirs is the best. It's a quality product, baked fresh daily, consistent, and local. I couldn’t say enough good things about the place, and our chef agrees.”

Chef DePerro is not alone in his assessment of Mike’s carefully crafted breads. Café Zelda has been a Newport tradition for over 100 years, and owners Tom and Roxanne Callahan swear by Provencal’s bread. Mrs. Callahan says, “We've gone through a lot of different places over the years to get our bread, but theirs is the best. It's a quality product, baked fresh daily, consistent, and local. I couldn’t say enough good things about the place, and our chef agrees.”

After everything has had sufficient time to proof, the preparations for the actual baking begin. There is a large canvas mechanism on which the dough loaves are arranged. This contraption will lock into place on the edges of the oven section that the bread will bake in, and when slid into the back of this deep oven, it drops the bread in the same pattern it was laid on the canvas. Then the canvas itself, designed like a conveyer belt, slides out clean. It is a fascinating piece of equipment but to Dan, it is as normal as a camera is to a photographer.

After everything has had sufficient time to proof, the preparations for the actual baking begin. There is a large canvas mechanism on which the dough loaves are arranged. This contraption will lock into place on the edges of the oven section that the bread will bake in, and when slid into the back of this deep oven, it drops the bread in the same pattern it was laid on the canvas. Then the canvas itself, designed like a conveyer belt, slides out clean. It is a fascinating piece of equipment but to Dan, it is as normal as a camera is to a photographer.

While on the canvas belt, the bread gets its markings. A small curved razor, called a lamé, is used to score each loaf, which gets a different pattern that is as much aesthetic as it is practical. The scoring, or slashing, ensures that the crust will not crack or tear when it expands in the oven, and this allows the baker to choose where he wishes the bread to “bloom” or open. This also permits the release of moisture while baking and adds beautiful designs to the breads.

While on the canvas belt, the bread gets its markings. A small curved razor, called a lamé, is used to score each loaf, which gets a different pattern that is as much aesthetic as it is practical. The scoring, or slashing, ensures that the crust will not crack or tear when it expands in the oven, and this allows the baker to choose where he wishes the bread to “bloom” or open. This also permits the release of moisture while baking and adds beautiful designs to the breads.

All the baking done during the winter and spring seasons happens in under two hours, with most large loaves taking thirty minutes or less to bake. Over one hundred loaves can fit in the enormous oven at a time. Dan knows when the loaves are done by how they smell, look, and feel; he never uses a timer, relying solely on his senses. “You know, I’ve done this a really long time, and you just get to know when it done. I decide to cook some darker, some lighter. It all depends on what is baking, really. Sure, I check on one before I take them all out, just to see.”

All the baking done during the winter and spring seasons happens in under two hours, with most large loaves taking thirty minutes or less to bake. Over one hundred loaves can fit in the enormous oven at a time. Dan knows when the loaves are done by how they smell, look, and feel; he never uses a timer, relying solely on his senses. “You know, I’ve done this a really long time, and you just get to know when it done. I decide to cook some darker, some lighter. It all depends on what is baking, really. Sure, I check on one before I take them all out, just to see.”

Because the area relies so heavily on tourism, Mike says that in the winter, referring to the period as the “off-season” they “hang on by a thin thread. But when summer comes around, the restaurants quadruple their orders and people fly in and out of here. That is just how it goes on the Island, just how Newport works.”

Because the area relies so heavily on tourism, Mike says that in the winter, referring to the period as the “off-season” they “hang on by a thin thread. But when summer comes around, the restaurants quadruple their orders and people fly in and out of here. That is just how it goes on the Island, just how Newport works.”

Each Wednesday during the summer months, Provencal takes part in the local farmers’ market on Memorial Drive in downtown Newport. Along with the freshest produce, dairy, and meats, Provencal showcases its freshly baked breads and its newer additions such as calzones, foccacia bread, and sweet and savory pastries. “I grew up on lasagna and pasta and all that wonderful Italian food. I started selling some things inspired by what I grew up on, and people seem to love it. We have branched out a little from the classic French-style bakery and we’ll continue to provide our customers that variety. So far, it has been working out great.”

Each Wednesday during the summer months, Provencal takes part in the local farmers’ market on Memorial Drive in downtown Newport. Along with the freshest produce, dairy, and meats, Provencal showcases its freshly baked breads and its newer additions such as calzones, foccacia bread, and sweet and savory pastries. “I grew up on lasagna and pasta and all that wonderful Italian food. I started selling some things inspired by what I grew up on, and people seem to love it. We have branched out a little from the classic French-style bakery and we’ll continue to provide our customers that variety. So far, it has been working out great.”

Because at Provencal no preservatives and only all-natural ingredients are used, many of the local organic, all-natural food stores and quality markets order their breads. Clements Marketplace and the Green Grocer, both located on Aquidneck Island in Portsmouth, attest to the quality and popularity of Provencal’s product. “We sell out almost everyday. It’s not uncommon to go through twenty loaves quickly,” says an employee of Clements’ Bakery Department. John, owner of the newest market on the Island, the Green Grocer, prides himself on “supporting locally grown, organic foods. You can’t find a quality product any closer. And the customers? Oh, they love it.”

Because at Provencal no preservatives and only all-natural ingredients are used, many of the local organic, all-natural food stores and quality markets order their breads. Clements Marketplace and the Green Grocer, both located on Aquidneck Island in Portsmouth, attest to the quality and popularity of Provencal’s product. “We sell out almost everyday. It’s not uncommon to go through twenty loaves quickly,” says an employee of Clements’ Bakery Department. John, owner of the newest market on the Island, the Green Grocer, prides himself on “supporting locally grown, organic foods. You can’t find a quality product any closer. And the customers? Oh, they love it.”

At Provencal, they also make baguettes daily, as any French bakery should, and sell them in both the storefront and in markets all around the state. Seasonally, they even take the quaint ferry ride to Block Island. Shown here is a larger version of their baguette made for the famous Brick Alley Pub and Restaurant of Newport, frequented by locals and tourists alike. General Manager Tom Desmond says, “What they give us is what we try to give to our customers—the very best.”

At Provencal, they also make baguettes daily, as any French bakery should, and sell them in both the storefront and in markets all around the state. Seasonally, they even take the quaint ferry ride to Block Island. Shown here is a larger version of their baguette made for the famous Brick Alley Pub and Restaurant of Newport, frequented by locals and tourists alike. General Manager Tom Desmond says, “What they give us is what we try to give to our customers—the very best.”

Provencal’s success is a testament to Mike’s hard work, dedication, and business savvy. He values most that,“…there’s an end of the day where you really feel a sense of accomplishment. Listen, we make masterpieces from a fifty-pound bag of flour, and that’s the amazing part. Each day, you just gotta come to create.” Hesitantly, so as not to sound pretentious, but proudly and with laughter, Mike adds, “Well, here, we create the champagne of breads.”

Provencal’s success is a testament to Mike’s hard work, dedication, and business savvy. He values most that,“…there’s an end of the day where you really feel a sense of accomplishment. Listen, we make masterpieces from a fifty-pound bag of flour, and that’s the amazing part. Each day, you just gotta come to create.” Hesitantly, so as not to sound pretentious, but proudly and with laughter, Mike adds, “Well, here, we create the champagne of breads.”