Made In USAKit #04999Skill Level 4

Skill Level 4Average Skills NeededThe Katana was designed to introduce modelers to

the process of recovery by dual deployment. The whole purpose of dual-deployment is to try to get the rocket to land closer to the launch pad so you don’t have to walk as far to retrieve it. A small drogue is ejected at apogee during the flight to stabilize the rocket as it quickly falls. With just a small chute on a heavy rocket, it falls rather quickly. While it doesn’t drift very far, it is falling too fast to safely land without breakage to the rocket. Using onboard electronics, the larger main chute is ejected out of the rocket when it is closer to the ground, so it safely lands the rocket. Because it delays the ejection of the main parachute until the model has fallen to a lower altitude, it doesn’t have a long time to drift with the wind.

What makes the Katana unique is the way the engine mount and fins are assembled. First of all, the rings have slots in them to accept the tabs on the fins, making them align perfectly in the rocket tube. And then the aft ring is installed and then removed several times to make sure parts are aligned and to allow access so that they can be bonded more securely than other rockets. This is a rocket where the fins are rock-solid and will be extremely difficult to pop off when the rocket lands.

This is a rocket intended for 54mm high power rocket motors and requires an extra dual-deployment altimeter (not included) to control the release of the parachutes.

The Katana rocket is a moderately challenging high power rocket build. The difference is the size of the com-ponents, and the type of adhesives you’ll be using to put it together. It also takes more time to set-up and install the electronics inside the ebay of the rocket.

Katana Parts List

Needed Tools and Materials � Hobby Knife with Sharp Blades � Ruler � Pencil � Wood Glue � Super Glue � Epoxy � 5/32" Drill bit and portable electric hand drill

Optional Tools / Finishing Supplies � Paint Supplies: Spray Paint, Brushes, etc � Plastic Sheet (to cover the work surface) � Safety Glasses (or general protection while building)

� Sandpaper 200 grit � Masking Tape � Scissors � Paper Towel � Liquid Dishwashing Soap and a bowl of water

� Adjustable Wrench � Dual Deployment Altimeter

and mounting hardware

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Manufactured in the USA by:Apogee Components Inc.Colorado Springs, Colorado, USAwww.ApogeeRockets.com Page 1

Item # Item Name Qty10153 Engine Mount Tube (AT-54/14") 110215 Switch Band Ring (AT-98/1) 110218 Airframe Body Tube (AT-98/18) 4" Thick Wall 210219 Airframe Body Tube (AT-98/18) Slotted 3-Fin 113061 Rail Button 213065 6-32 x 3/8 Flat Phillips Machine Screw 213066 Weld Nut for 1010 Rail Button 213075 Removable Plastic Rivets 313086 1/4-20x9 Full Thread Rod 113093 1/4-20 Wing Nut 113119 Coupler Bulkhead Stop Ring 213125 Coupler (AC-98) 4" Thick Wall 213481 Centering Ring (CR-54/98) Forward 113482 Centering Ring (CR-54/98) Aft 115420 Ebay Sled plate ¼” Plywood 115421 Ebay Bulkhead-A ¼” Plywood 115422 Ebay Bulkhead-B ¼” Plywood 115423 Ebay Threaded Rod Support Piece ¼” Plywood 215697 Engine Mount Alignment Rail 1/4" Plywood 215699 Katana Fin 1/4" Plywood 319493 4" Plastic Nose Cone (PNC-98mm) 129092 18” Nylon Parachute 129096 48" Printed Nylon Parachute 129364 12"x12" Parachute Protector 229523 300# Kevlar x 3 Feet (yellow) 129559 1/2" Nylon Tubular Webbing x 10ft 129560 1/2" Nylon Tubular Webbing x 15ft 129626 1/4-20 Turned Eye Bolt 329627 1/4-20 Finished Hex Nut 629628 1/4 USS Flat Washer 831227 Katana Instruction Sheet A 131228 Katana Instruction Sheet B 131229 Katana Instruction Sheet C 139102 Katana Face Card 141052 Katana Printed Decal (White Vinyl) 141053 Katana Cut Decal (Black Vinyl) 147125 Plastic Bag for parts 1

Step 4

Assembly Steps � 1. Using an aluminum angle or a door frame, draw a

straight line along the length of the long engine mount tube.

� 2. Mark the end of the engine mount tube 1/2-inch (12mm) from one end. This will now be the rear end of the tube.

� 3. Locate the plywood centering ring with just one hole in it. This is the forward centering ring. Attach the eye-bolt to the ring with one washer on each side of the ring, and hold it in place by the metal nut. Tighten the nut securely.

� 4. On one edge of each of the two spacer rails, round off the corners. This rounded edge will be faced rear-ward when glued as shown in Step 6.

� 5. DO NOT GLUE in this step! “Test fit” the engine mount components together as shown. The com-ponents are the forward and aft centering rings, the engine mount tube and two plywood spacer rails. The aft ring should be positioned just forward of the ½-inch (12mm) line at the rear of the tube. Align one of the plywood spacer rails along the line on the tube to make sure the rings are not twisted.

Step 1 Step 2

Step 5

Step 3

1/2" (12mm)

Rear

Front

Page 2

� 6. It is important to be able to remove the aft ring, so don’t get any glue on it! Using thick super glue, tack the other components together and to the engine mount tube in their proper position from the previ-ous step. Later, you will apply epoxy to the joints for a more secure bond. At this point, you just want the parts to stay in place. Remove the aft centering ring.

� 7. Tie the long nylon shock cord to the eyebolt on the forward centering ring. You can wrap masking tape over the loose end piece to keep it from coming un-done.

� 8. Take the thin yellow Kevlar cord and weave it in and out of the holes on the aft centering ring as shown. Tie the ends of the cord together. This cord creates three handles that allow you to remove the centering ring from the engine mount tube in Step 13 so you can apply epoxy to make internal fin fillets.

� 9. Slide the aft centering back on to the engine mount tube as shown. Then slide the larger body tube with the slots over the shock cord and the engine mount. Rotate the tube so the notches in the centering rings align with the slots in the tube.

� 10. On the back tab of each of the three fins, round off the corners of the wood with sandpaper or a file in the location shown. This will make it easier to slide on the centering ring in Step 16.

� 11. Study the image for where to put glue on the bot-tom edge of the fins. Make sure there is no glue near the back edge, because you don’t want to glue the aft centering ring on yet. You only want to tack-glue the fins in place. They will be reinforced with epoxy in a later step.

� 12. Tack-glue the fins into the slots in the body tube using super glue. Make sure the tabs engage the slots in the centering rings. But DO NOT GET ANY GLUE NEAR THE BACK CENTERING RING!

Step 8

Step 9

Step 11Step 10

Step 12 Page 3

Step 7

Step 6Remove

Ring

Rear

Front

� 13. When the fins are installed and the glue has set up, remove the back centering ring by pulling on the cord loops.

� 14. There are two rail buttons to be installed in the holes in between two of the fins. The shank of the weld-nut is inserted through the hole from the inside of the tube. The plastic rail button is inserted on the post with the countersunk hole facing outwards. The screw is then installed and tightened.

� 15. Mix up some paste-type epoxy (such as the Rock-etPoxy) and lay fillets inside the tube as shown, to bond the fins in place. The plywood spacer rails do not need epoxy on them, but everything else inside the tube where two parts come together need a fillet of epoxy. You can also put epoxy on the eyebolt threads, and cover the base of the weld-nut.

� 16. While the epoxy is still wet, install and glue in the aft centering ring. Apply epoxy fillets along the outside fin joints and around the base of the aft centering ring. If the yellow cord on the aft centering ring is still in place, you can remove it after you have the ring installed in the rocket.

� 17. Mark the center of one large tube coupler as shown. Test fit the coupler in the tube. If it is tight, you can sand the coupler or remove the top layer of paper.

� 18. Using liquid epoxy, bond the tube coupler into the front end of the body tube so that the mark is just outside of the front end of the tube. Be sure to wipe any excess epoxy out of the inside of the tube, so it doesn’t get on the nylon shock cord.

� 19. Bond one of the 18" body tubes to the front end of the exposed tube coupler using liquid epoxy. Wipe away any excess epoxy from both inside and outside tube surfaces.

Page 4Step 19

Step 18

Step 16

Step 17

4"

Step 13

Step 14

Step 15

� 20. Pull the nylon shock cord out the front of the tube. Tie the chute protector to it. The cloth should be posi-tioned so that it is just forward of the front end of the body tube when the cord is stretched out. If you wrap it through the hole twice, it shouldn’t slide along the shock cord if it is tied on.

� 21. Sand the outer edges of the two end disks smooth so that they are easy to install/remove from the remaining coupler tube. Also, round over the edge (opposite the Apogee logo), to help aid in the installa-tion of the disks into the tube.

� 22. Using wood glue, attach the two threaded rod support pieces into the middle slots on the ends of the plywood sled plate (on the side without the Apogee logo). Allow the glue time to dry.

� 23. Using wood glue, attach the bulkhead with the sin-gle slot to the plywood sled as shown. Add a glue fillet to strengthen the joint, and allow the glue time to try.

� 24. Glue the two “stop rings” into the ends of the remaining coupler tube. They are recessed ¼ inch (6.4mm) from each end. Wipe off any excess glue so that you can insert the two bulkheads into the tube later.

� 25. Attach the eyebolt to the remaining bulkhead has shown. The “eyelet” is inserted from the side of the disk with the Apogee logo on it. You will also need two washers (one on each side of the bulkhead), and two nuts. Tighten the nuts so the eyebolt doesn’t rotate.

Step 23

Step 24

Step 25 Page 5

Step 22

Step 21

Step 20

Tie close to tube

Chuteprotector

Ebay Assembly

1/4" (6.4mm)

� 26. Attach the remaining eyebolt to the bulkhead/sled as shown. As before, the “eyelet” is inserted from the side of the disk with the Apogee logo on it. You will also need two washers (one on each side of the bulk-head), and two nuts. Tighten the nuts so the eyebolt doesn’t rotate.

� 27. Put a washer and nut onto one end of the long threaded rod. Insert the rod through the bulkhead and the support pieces below the sled.

� 28. Mark the coupler 3-½ inches (8.9 cm) from one end. Slide the switch band over the coupler and glue it into place along the line you just made. This should center the band in the middle of the coupler.

� 29. After you mount your electronics on the plywood sled, you can slide the sled into the coupler tube. For tips on installing your electronics, see our video at: https://www.apogeerockets.com/Advanced_Construction_videos/Rocketry_Video_111

� 30. Install the last bulkhead onto the sled by insert-ing the two tabs into the slots and the threaded rod through the middle hole. Install the last washer and the wing nut onto the threaded rod to secure the bulk-head into the ebay.

� 31. Tie the free end of the nylon shock cord to the eyebolt on the base of the ebay. The bottom will be the side with the long slot and the regular nut. (NOTE: You can wait and then perform this step after the rest of the assembly has been completed, as you will need to drill holes into the ebay to vent your electronics and for the removable rivets that that hold the parts together for launch.) Page 6

Step 30

Step 29

Step 31

Step 27

Step 28

3.5"

Step 26

Tighten securely

� 32. Cut out the marking guide from the template sheet, and wrap it around one end of the remaining 18-inch long body tube. Align the edge flush with the end of the tube, and tape it in place. Using a sharp pencil, poke a hole through the paper at each of the three cross-hairs to mark the location for drilling holes. You can then remove the marking guide.

� 33. Using a 5/32" bit, drill three holes into the tube at the marked location. Clean up the edges of the holes with sandpaper if necessary.

� 34. Temporarily remove the sled from the ebay and set it aside. Insert the ebay tube into the long tube on the end with the holes. Put a piece of masking tape over the joint so the pieces can’t rotate. Make a pencil line across the joint between the two tubes. This is called a “witness mark.” The purpose is to line up the tubes later to make assembly easier. You may want to make it permanent after you paint the rocket.

� 35. Using the holes in the long tube as a guide, drill through the three holes into the ebay tube coupler with the 5/32" bit. Separate the tubes by removing the masking tape, and clean up the edges of the holes with sandpaper if necessary.

� 36. Reinstall the sled and the bulkheads into the ebay. Tie the shorter shock cord strap onto the eyebolt on the forward bulkhead of the ebay. Then pass the shock cord through the tube, with the holes oriented toward the ebay assembly.

� 37. Line up the holes in the tube with the holes in the ebay. Insert the three reusable plastic rivets into the holes. The base gets inserted first, and then the plunger part next. The plunger separates the fingers at the bottom of the base section, which holds the rivet in the hole and keeps the two parts together. If you need to remove the rivet, insert the edge of a knife under the plunger section and gently pry it up. Then repeat the process with the knife edge to pry the base out of the tube. The rivet is reusable and can be reinserted back into the hole when you’re ready to fly your rocket.

Step 35

Step 37

Step 36

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Step 32

Step 34

Step 33

Witness mark

� 38. Attach the second parachute protector to the para-chute tube by tying it on the shock cord. As before, try to get it close to the end of the tube.

� 39. Tie the free end of the shock cord to the loop on the base of the nose cone.

� 40. The large parachute is attached to the nose cone, and the smaller one is attached to the eyebolt at the base of the ebay. Holding the parachute at the center of its top, pull the lines together to even up the ends. Thread the looped lines through the loop at the base of the nose cone. Take the top of the parachute and pull it through all string loops at the same time and then pull to tighten the knot. This securely attaches the parachute to the rocket.

� 41. Paint the rocket in the colors you desire.

� 42. Allow the paint to harden at least two days before applying the vinyl decals. The decals are somewhat stretchy, so be careful applying them. We recommend removing each one from the paper backing, and then dipping them in soapy water to lubricate them so they will slide around and can be repositioned easily. Keep them wet by occasionally dripping some soapy water on them if they start to grab the rocket too quickly. When the decal is in the right location, press down firmly, and squeegee out any water underneath. When the decal dries, it will be permanently fixed. The soapy water will not affect the adhesion of the glue on the back of the vinyl decal.

� Congratulations! Your Katana Rocket is now complete.

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Step 41

Step 42

Step 38

Step 39

Step 40

Parachute protector cloth

Large chute

Small chute

Launch Supplies Needed

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*Katana Suggested Motor Chart

Motor Manufacturer Est. Altitude Delay Cert LevelFt m

I115W AeroTech 2169 661 8 L1I140SK Cesaroni 2137 651 9 L1J275W AeroTech 4618 1408 12 L2J240RL Cesaroni 4601 1402 12 L2J450DM AeroTech 5617 1712 14 L2K513FJ AeroTech 6844 2086 14 L2K520WH Cesaroni 7563 2305 14 L2K535W AeroTech 6883 2098 14 L2

To launch your rocket you will need the following: ● A model rocket rail launch pad and 12v controller ● Several recommended 54mm Rocket Engines for the

Katana are listed in the motor chart.* Go to our website for a broader motor selection for this

kit at https://www.apogeerockets.com/Rocket-Kits/Skill-Level-4-Model-Rocket-Kits/Katana#motors

� 43. The high power rocket motors have the engine block built into the back of the engine. You do NOT need an engine block inside the rocket tube.

� 44. Slide the rocket engine into the rear of the engine mount until it butts against the back edge of the motor tube. If the engine is long, it may project forward out the front of the motor tube inside the parachute location. This is OK! Just make sure the parachute is protected from the ejection charge of the rocket motor by the cloth chute protector. You can alway add recov-ery wadding or “dog barf” (cellulose house insulation) to the tube for extra parachute protection.

� 45. The engine can be restrained by wrapping mask-ing tape around the perimeter of the joint where the motor butts against the engine tube. Yes… this tape does work fine for holding the motor in the rocket - even high power motors. You can also install a motor retainer on the tube if that is your preference.

� Set up your electronics in the ebay of the kit, along

with the ejection charges.

� For help in this set-up process, see our tutorial videos on dual-deployment at:

https://www.apogeerockets.com/Advanced_Construction_videos/Rocketry_Video_120https://www.apogeerockets.com/Advanced_Construction_videos/Rocketry_Video_121

Step 44

Step 45

Masking tape

Step 43

Engine block

Rocket Preflight

Prepping your rocket for flight

Countdown and Launch Procedure

Misfire Procedure

� Insert and secure the engine igniter as directed on the package the engines came with. At this point, the assembly of the rocket is complete and ready for flight.

� Follow the countdown and launch procedures below.

� Always follow the NAR* or Tripoli High Power safety code (http://www.nar.org/safety-information/high-power-rocket-safety-code/) if fly-ing an H-size rocket motor or larger. Fly your rocket on a large field that is far from any power lines, trees, or low flying aircraft. The larger the field, the greater your chances of recovering your rocket. The launch area around the pad must be free of dry weeds and brown grass. Launch only during calm weather with very little or no wind and good visibili-ty.

� 10. Remove the safety key from the launch controller.

� 9. Slide the rail buttons over the launch rail to place the rocket on the pad. The rocket should slide freely in the rail chan-nel.

� 8. Attach the micro-clips to the igniter. The clips must not touch each other or the metal blast deflector.

� 7. Stand back from your rocket as far as the launch wire allows (at least 12 meters - 40 feet for high power).

� 6. Insert the safety key to arm the launch system. The light (or buzzer) on the controller should come on.

� Give a loud countdown! 5… 4… 3… 2… 1… LAUNCH!

� Push and hold the button until the engine ignites. Then remove the safety key and place the safety cap on the launch rod.

Occasionally the igniter will burn, but the motor will fail to ignite. If this happens, the cause is that the pyrogen on the igniter was not in contact with the engines propellant. When an ignition failure occurs, remove the safety key from the launch controller and wait 60 seconds before approaching the rocket. Remove the old igniter from the engine and install a new one. Make sure that the igniter is inserted fully into the engine and touches the propellant. Secure the igniter as directed on the engine package and repeat the countdown and launch procedure. Always follow the NAR* Model Rocket Safety Code when launching model rockets. *National Association of Rocketry **Kevlar® is a brand name of E.I. DuPont for their selection of aramid fibers. Only DuPont makes Kevlar®.

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Go online and order at www.ApogeeRockets.com or call us and order at 719-535-9335. We’re available M-F: 9:00am-5:00pm MST

Need parts or Accessories to go along with this kit?

https://www.ApogeeRockets.com/High-Power-Rocketry-Certification