Assembly Instructions for Mountain Bikes

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Dear customer,

Congratulations on the purchase of your new bike from our online bike shop! Our expert bike mechanics have already completely assembled your new bicycle, made all the necessary fine adjustments (such as shift and brake adjustments) and carried out a thorough check of all of its functions.

You will notice that we have used specially-developed protective packaging on your new bike, for the best possible protection during the delivery process. We have also dismantled the saddle, pedals and the front wheel to protect these components during transport.

Before your first ride, all you have to do is install the front wheel, adjust the handlebars and mount the saddle and pedals. These steps are all quite easy and quick to undertake – without any prior experience or knowledge.

You’ll find the tools and components you need safely stored in your bike box. This assembly guide will take you step-by-step, from the unpacking to your very first ride.

We wish you a lot of fun with your new bike!

Watch out for the following symbols:

The steps described over the following pages may somewhat differ from the steps required for your specific bicycle model. The image material used shows the typical work steps that are usually required.

All of our bike models come with an EU standard brake setup. This setup will need to be reversed to comply with UK cycling standards.

Bicycles without lighting systems do not comply with the provisions of the Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations once the sun has set. Please note that unless satisfactory lights and reflectors are fitted, the use of these models is not permitted on public roads at night.

Each individual bike has a stamped number for identification. Please make a record of the frame number of your new bike. The frame number is usually found in the bottom bracket area. Depending on the manufacturer, however, the position of the

frame number may differ (seat tube, head tube or fork end). Write down your frame number on the invoice.

Important notes

Introduction

ATTENTION NOTE

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1. Delivery

2. Front wheel assembly 2.1 Preparing the front wheel & fork

2.2 Preparing the brakes 2.3 Installing the front wheel 2.4 Securing the front wheel

2.5 Installing the brakes

2.6 Functional check

3. Adjusting/Installing the handlebars & stem 3.1 Adjusting ahead stem & headset bearings 3.2 Adjusting the handlebars

3.3 Re-mounting dismounted handlebars

4. Mounting the saddle & seatpost

5. Fitting the pedals

6. Final check & test drive

7. Maintaining the bicycle

Contents

Contents

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fi g. 1

fi g. 3 fi g. 4

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fi g. 7fi g. 6

Delivery

Unpacking all the components from the bike box:

Open the bicycle box and remove the transport safety device on the rear wheel. On some models, the front wheel is secured to the handlebars with a cable tie. Please also remove this cable tie. Remove the front wheel from the box. For a disc brake front wheel, please avoid touching the brake disc. (fi g. 2)

What is in the package?

1 x assembled, checked and safely packaged bicycle

1 x separate front wheel

1 x combination saddle/seatpost

1 x accessory box containing an instruction manual, tools, accessories and pedals (if included with your bike model)

Remove the seat post with the saddle and the frame with the rear wheel. (fi g. 3-4)

Remove the accessory box. In this you will fi nd the manufacturer‘s manual, the included mounting tool and any accessories such as pedals and front-wheel quick releases. (fi g. 5)

Carefully remove packing material from the frame and fork as well as the trans-port safety devices on the crank and the derailleur. (fi g. 6-7)

1. DeliveryThe fi nal assembly steps only take a few minutes for experienced mechanics. If you do not have previous experience, you should allow yourself between 15 and 30 minutes of time and follow the instructions step by step. We also recommend leaving yourself suffi cient working space and using a sturdy pair of scissors to remove packaging material.

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fig. 1

BC

fig. 5

Front Wheel Assembly - Preparing the front wheel and fork - Quick release

After unpacking all the components, the front wheel should be installed to place the new bike on its "feet“ for all further work. So that the front wheel can be mounted correctly into the fork, several steps must first be taken on the front wheel, fork and brakes. Below you will find the necessary instructions needed for your specific brake and front wheel type.

2.1 Preparing the front wheel and fork Please find and follow the appropriate section for your model:

2. Front wheel assembly

Remove the quick release from the accessory package, loosen the spring clip (B) and remove the one spiral spring (C). (fig. 2)

a) Quick-release front wheel & quick release:

Remove the protective plastic cover on the right and left of the hub at the centre of the front wheel. (fig. 1)

Insert the quick release through the axle of the front wheel. (fig. 3) Put the spiral spring back on the quick release. (fig. 4)

The thin end of the spiral spring should always point towards the center of the hub.

Screw the clamping nut on slightly (fig. 5)

The front wheel is now properly prepared.

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fig. 8

fig. 6

fig. 7

fig. 8

For front wheels with disc brakes (left), the quick release lever should be placed on the right side. Please do not touch the disc brake rotor, as it may become contaminated with oil or grease and this could lead to compromised braking

performance. (fig. 6)

Front Wheel Assembly - Quick release

In the case of front wheels with rim brakes, the quick release lever can typically be found on the left side. For bicycles with a hub dynamo, the hub connector must always be on the right side in the direction of travel.

On wheels without a brake disc, the running direction of the tyre will be printed on the tyre sidewall. This will help you determine the left and right sides of the wheel.(fig. 7)

To prepare the fork, remove the transport safety device from the fork end. (fig. 8) In the conventional quick-release system, the transport safety device only protects the fork when the front wheel is removed. It is not required to mount the wheel.

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fig. 1

fig. 2

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b) Front wheel for thru-axle

Remove the two plastic protective covers on the right and left of the hub, in the cen-tre of the front wheel. A hollow axis with 12, 15 or 20 mm internal diameter is now visible. (fig. 1) This is where the mounting axis is mounted in the next step.

The fork should then be prepared for the installation of the front wheel. For fork and front wheel for pin-axle mounting (12, 15 or 20 mm diameter), the axle is mounted in the fork end for transport. (fig. 2)

It must now be completely unscrewed and put aside ready for use for the subse-quent assembly. (fig. 3)

Front Wheel Assembly - Thru-axle

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fig. 1

fig. 2

fig. 3

b) Front wheel screw axle with axle nuts

Remove the two plastic protective covers on the left and right of the hub, in the cen-tre of the front wheel. (fig. 1)

Under the cover, the hub axle is now visible. You will see the hub axle without a hole, with an external thread, as well as an axle nut and a washer on each side.

Loosen the two axle nuts on the hub axle using a 15 mm open-end spanner until there is a 5-10 mm gap between the hub and the nut. (fig. 2)

Please ensure that a washer is installed on each side.

In order to prepare the fork, the transport safety device should then be removed from the fork end. In the conventional screw axle system, the transport safety device only protects the fork when the front wheel is removed. It is not required to mount the wheel. (fig. 3)

Front Wheel Assembly - Screw axle with axle nuts

9Front Wheel Assembly - Preparing the brake

2.2 Preparing the brake

fig. 1

If the transport safety device has been removed, the front bake should not be operated before the front wheel is fitted with the disc brake.

a) Disc brake – Removing the transport safety device

In the case of bikes with hydraulic or mechanical disc brakes, a transport safety de-vice is installed between the brake linings on the brake calliper. This must be pulled out before installing the front wheel. (fig. 1)

fig. 2

fig. 3

fig. 4

b) Rim brake: V brake - Disconnecting the brake

On bikes with V-brakes, the brake must be suspended for mounting the front wheel. This is the only way to fit the assembled and air-filled tyre through the brake system. No screw must be loosened.

Press both brake arms together by hand to release the brake cable. (fig. 2)

Suspend the brake cable by removing the metal tube (C) from the metal rail (D) of the right brake arm in the direction of travel. (fig. 3)

The brake is now suspended and will allow the front wheel to be fitted with an air-filled tyre. (fig.4)

C

D

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fig. 3

fig. 2

fig. 1

Check in which direction the front wheel must be installed. Lift the bike (without the front wheel) with one hand on the stem. Position the front wheel as straight as possi-ble from the bottom into the fork. (fig. 1)

Check that the ends of the fork are fully supported on the front axle on both sides. (fig. 2)

In the case of disc brakes, the brake disc must be guided in the centre between the brake pads without force. (fig. 3)

For rim brakes, the front wheel brake must be reinserted (see section 2.5). The brake is not functional when suspended.

Front Wheel Assembly - Installing the front wheel

2.3 Installing the front wheel

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fig. 1 fig. 2

fig. 3

fig. 3

If your bicycle has a hub dynamo, then plug the lighting connector on the right side of the fork to the hub dynamo slot of the front wheel. (fig. 3)

2.4 Fitting the front wheel

The quick release lever must be turned completely. The resistance of the closing movement of the quick release lever must in-crease significantly after approximately half of the lever travel. Otherwise the preload must be adjusted using the clamping nut on the opposite side.

a) Quick release

Hand-screw the clamping nut on the quick release clamp against the lever until the open quick release tensioner has approx. 1-2 mm play. Move the quick release lever round 180°. (From position “Open“ to position “Close“) (fig. 1-2)

If the quick clamp has been closed correctly, the word "Close“ can now be read on the outside.(fig. 3)

Front Wheel Assembly - Fitting the front wheel - Quick release

Next, fix the front wheel in this position according to the installed axle system:

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fig. 1

fig. 2

fig. 3 fig. 4

b) Thru-axle

When the front wheel is in the correct position, insert the thru-axle through the fork end without the threaded insert and the hub. (fig. 1)

Screw the leverless end of the thru-axle into the threaded insert of the fork. (fig. 2)

Screw the thru-axle firmly until the front wheel and axle are free of any play and the lever can be completely closed with slight pressure. (fig. 3-4)

Thru-axles are designed to prevent slipping of the front wheel and require slightly lower closing forces than conventional quick releases or screw axles. If the axle does not have a hinged lever, it should be tightened with medium hand force.

Front Wheel Assembly - Fitting the front wheel - Thru-axle

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fig. 1

fig. 2

c) Screw axle

When the front wheel is in position, make sure that the washers are located on both sides between the fork end and the axle nut. (fig. 1) Turn the axle nuts on both sides by hand.

Use the 15mm wrench to screw the axle nuts, alternating between right and left, until they are evenly and firmly fixed. This prevents slipping of the front wheel. (fig. 2)

Front Wheel Assembly - Fitting the front wheel - Quick release

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fig. 1

fig. 2

fig. 32.6 Function check

fig. 4

Check the free-running of the front wheel. If the front wheel is visibly slanted, running unevenly or significantly grinds the brake, the front wheel has not been installed correctly!

Check the function of the front brake. You should be able to easily stop the freely rotating front wheel with the front brake – without having to pull the brake lever as far back as the handle. (fig. 4)

2.5 Fitting the brakes

After installation of the front wheel the brake must be made functional again. Depending on your type of brake, proceed as fol-lows:

Disc brake

For bicycles with disc brakes on their front wheel, no further assembly steps are necessary.

V-Brake

Press the brake arms of the v-brake together with one hand until the brake pads lie flat on the rim. (fig. 1)

Using the other hand, pull the metal tube of the brake cable in the direction of the support (metal rail) with the other hand so that the end of the guide tube can be attached. (fig. 2)

Slip the rubber sleeve over the end of the guide tube. (fig. 3)

Front Wheel Assembly - Fitting the brakes

In the case of disc brakes, slight grinding noises can occur at the beginning. The grinding usually disappears after a short bra-king time (c.30 full brakes). It is important that the brake disc is centred between the brake pads and can rotate freely.

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fig. 4

fig. 2 fig. 3

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fig. 1

3. Adjustment of handlebar/stemThe pre-assembled handlebar was turned to the side for transportation. (fig. 1) With a few, simple hand movements you can bring the stem and handlebars into the correct riding position.

On most bicycles, the stem is rotated with the handlebars already mounted. You just have to loosen a few screws and tighten them again to bring your handlebars (and all functioning shifters and brake levers) into the correct position.

These steps differ according to the design of your handlebars and stem. Choose the appropriate method for your bike.

3.1 Ahead control bearing & assembly

Many modern bicycle models use the so-called Ahead system for fork, steering bearing and stem. The stem is clamped with two outer screws on the continuous fork steerer and the headset bearing is adjusted with a screw from above.

Loosen the screw connection between the stem and the fork steerer until the stem can be rotated. (fig. 2-3)

Align the stem in a straight line with the front wheel. (fig. 4) Re-adjust the be-aring clearance of the headset. For this, please tighten the Aheadset star nut bolt a quarter-turn and check whether the bearing has clearance. (fig. 5)

Carefully repeat step by step until you detect no more play and the handlebars can still be rotated smoothly and easily: Now tighten the screw connection of the stem / fork shaft with the appropriate Allen key on the minitool. (fig. 6-7)

Adjustment of handlebar/stem - Ahead control bearing & assembly

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3.2 Place the handlebars in position

Loosen the screws at the handlebar / stem connection slightly. (fig.1)

Turn the handlebars to a comfortable position for you. Make sure that the handlebar remains positioned centrally in the stem. (fig. 2)

Tighten the handlebars evenly with the appropriate Allen key on your minitool by alternately tightening the pre-fastening bolts. (fig. 3-6)

Ensure uniform tightening torque for all pre-clamp bolts! The clearance of the stem clamp must be identical; otherwise there is a risk of a serious material defect!

Adjustment of handlebar/stem - Place the handlebars in position

High clamping forces are not desired here. The lever of the small minitool and medium hand forces are sufficient. It is best to use a suitable torque wrench and pay close attention to the Newton meter indication for the handlebar clamp bolts of the stem

manufacturer.

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Adjustment of handlebar/stem - Installing the dismantled handlebars in the stem

For individual bicycle models, it is necessary to separate the handlebar from the stem for safe transportation. In this case, the stem and headset are already set correctly. You only have to mount the handlebars in the stem. (fig. 1)

Unscrew all the screws on the handlebar clamp of the stem and remove the front part of the handlebar clamp. (fig. 2-3)

Position the handlebars exactly in the middle of the stem clamp and reassemble the removed part of the stem clamp. (fig. 4) Turn the handlebars to an individually comfortable position. Make sure that the handlebar remains positioned centrally in the stem.

Tighten the handlebars evenly with the appropriate Allen key on your minitool by alternately tightening the pre-fastening bolts. (fig. 5-8)

Ensure uniform tightening torque for all pre-clamp bolts! The clearance of the stem clamp must be identical; otherwise there is a risk of a serious material defect!

High clamping forces are not desired here. The lever of the small minitool and medium hand forces are sufficient. It is best to use a suitable torque wrench and pay close attention to the Newton meter indication for the handlebar clamp bolts of the stem

manufacturer.

3.3 Installing the dismantled handlebars in the stem

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fig. 1 fig. 2

Adjusting shifter lever, brake lever, handles

Brake levers, shift levers, and on many bikes, the handles themselves are all inde-pendently adjustable of each other. These bikes are delivered with a neutral basic setting as standard. Individual fine ad-justments can be made quickly and easily after the first test ride using the Allen keys on the supplied minitool. (fig. 1-2)

Adjustement of handlebar/stem - Adjusting shifter lever, brake lever, handles

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fig. 1

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fig. 2

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4. Mounting the saddle and seatpostThe saddle of your new bike is alrea-dy pre-mounted on the seatpost. The pre-assembled saddle / support combi-nation is part of the package as a separa-te component.

Loosen the clamping screw on the seat tube of the frame. (fig. 1-2)

Push the seatpost into the seat tube of the frame. The seatpost can be freely positio-ned there. (fig.3)

For metal seatposts and frames, it is advisable to lubricate the post with some assembly grease. For carbon seatposts or frames, carbon assembly paste

should be used.

Adjust the seat height to the right height for you. As a rough guideline for the correct seat height (in the case of remote seatposts, in the extended state), the upper edge of your hip bone should be in line with the saddle when you are stood next to the bike. (fig. 4)

The exact seat height can only be determined after the pedals are mounted. To do this, sit on the saddle of the new bike. If your heel is positioned on the pedal at 6 o‘ clock, your leg should be stretched straight.

Mounting the saddle & seatpost

20Mounting the saddle & seatpost

fig. 1

fig. 2 fig. 3

fig. 4

Remote seatposts with height adjustment lever on the handlebar

Models that come with a height-adjustable seatpost operated by a lever on the hand-lebars have a cable or a hydraulic line running from the seatpost to the handlebar lever. Here, too, the seatpost, saddle and operational lever have been professionally pre-assembled and functionally tested. Therefore the seatpost and the frame are already connected with the remote cable. In most cases, for shipping purposes, the seatpost is already mounted in the frame with the saddle set in the lowest position possible. As a result, individual height ad-justment is necessary. From time to time, for shipping purposes, the seatpost is pulled out of the seat tube and fastened along the top tube together with the mounted saddle.

When fitting the post into the seat tube of the frame, make sure not to damage the fixed mount line. This will ensure smooth operation that might be compromised in the event of damage.

fig. 5

As a rule, hand-tightening is sufficient to prevent the seatpost from slipping. Too much tightening can damage the seatpost, frame and quick release.

If the saddle height is correct and the saddle is in line with the upper tube (fig. 1), fix the saddle position with the clam-ping screw. (fig. 1-3)

The minimum insertion depth is marked on the seatpost. (fig. 4) The seatpost must meet this minimum insertion depth otherwise the post and frame may be

damaged. A material failure can lead to loss of control, falls and injuries.

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Mounting the pedals

5. Mounting the pedals

The left pedal only fits the left hand crank, the right hand pedal only to the right hand crank. The crank arms are marked with clear labels for this reason. Not

paying attention to the left and right pedal markings and forcibly mounting the pedals will inevitably damage the thread on the pedal crank! (fig. 1)

The last step before conducting your final checks and taking your bike for a test ride is mounting your pedals. You will find the pedals in the accessory box of your new bike.

Identify the right and left pedal. They will be clearly marked. (fig. 2)

Screw the right pedal on the right crank (drive side) clockwise by hand into the thread. (fig. 3-4)

Screw the left pedal to the left crank counter-clockwise by hand into the thread. (fig. 5-6)

Afterwards, carefully tighten the pedal with the appropriate tool. It should be screwed firmly, but without much effort. Depending on the pedal, you will need either a 15 mm wrench or a 6 mm or 8 mm Allen key. All the tool variants mentioned are included in the supplied minitool. (fig. 7-8)

After the first ride, the pedals should be checked again and tightened if necessary. A loose pedal will soon lead to crank damage.

Pedals are not included with all mountain bike models. If pedals are included with your model, you will find them in the accessory box that came with your bike. However, if you would like to use other pedals than the ones provided, this is perfectly possible and

will not cause any problems. In both cases, please follow the mounting steps described below.

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fig. 1 fig. 2

fig. 3

6. Final checks & test ridingThe new bike is now ready for use and ready for its first test ride. Now the seat height can be adjusted exactly to the leg length and seat position. To do this, sit on the saddle of your new bike. If your heel is positioned on the pedal at 6 o‘ clock, then your leg should be straight.

Next, please check all relevant screw connections! Check that all quick releases are properly closed and the brakes are in good working order! Also test existing suspension elements for function and sufficient spring tension!

For the final check, sit in the saddle. The gears and brakes have already been set up by our bike mechanics, but are the handlebars straight? Are gearshift levers and brake levers easy to reach? (fig. 1-2)

And last but not least, have you checked the air pressure in thefront and rear tyres and increased it if needed? (fig. 3) A flat tyre on your first ride is not a great start with a new bike and can usually be avoided with a few strokes of the pump.

For the first test drive, we recommend a short, quiet and distraction-free track, where you’ll be left alone to familiarise yourself with the function of the brakes, gears and riding position and develop a feel for the handling of the bike.

Final checks & test riding

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7. Maintenance of the bicycleIn the interests of a precise and reliable performance from all components, an initial inspection by a bicycle workshop after about 100 kilometres or about 6 weeks of use is highly recommended.

Bicycles cannot always be perfectly adjusted without a certain running-in period having passed. Mechanical components such as brakes, gears and bearings should be checked again after this initial operating time and readjusted if necessary. A professional initial inspection ensures the maximum service life of your new bike and unlimited riding pleasure.

Inspections should be carried out regularly (after 100 km or 6 weeks, after 500 km or 6 months, after 1000 km or 1 year, after 2000 km or 2 years, and then once a year after that).

Have a great time with your new bike!

Maintenance of the bicycle