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1 Solar Hive Assembly Guideline, www.thingiverse.com/thing:942891

Solar Hive LED Lamp

Assembly Instructions


Content:

1.Introduction………………………………………………………………………………………3

2.Parts…………………………………………………………………………………………….……4

3.Customizer……………………………………………………………………………………….16

4.Assembly………………………………………………………………………………………….19

5.Operation………………………………………………………….………………………………35


1. Introduction

This manual was created to help you build your own "Solar Hive LED

Lamp".

All the body parts are 3D printed and the electronics should cost less

than $ 25 or 20 € in total.

The idea was to create a lamp dedicated to the beauty of randomness,

so the shape and the glowing pattern are randomized.

To create your own lamp you can use OpenSCAD or the Thingiverse

Customizer to change the parameters according to your needs.

You will need basic soldering skills and an ISP or a second Arduino to

upload the arduino sketch to the microcontroller board – or just build it

your way and don't stick too closely to this guide.

Christoph Queck

July 2015


2. Parts:

This is a list of all the parts i used to build my lamp, maybe you'll need a

different amount of LEDs. With the Atmel 328P based microcontroller

board we can use up to 20 channels to power our LEDs with 2 LEDs

each.

I used a "dswy_robot" called Arduino-like board which is pretty cheap,

small and uses very little energy. The one downside is it lacks an USB

port, which means you'll need another Arduino or another ISP (

In-System Programmer) to upload the sketch.

More Info about the Uploading process here:

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP

While testing i measured below 10 mA standby and around 20 to 80 mA

in operation.

The solar cell i used has 0,75 W, 6 V, 120 mA but anything between 5 - 7

V and 60 - 400 mA will work.

The rechargeable batteries i used are 4 NiMH AAA cells with 1.2 V each -

you should only use NiMH or sealed lead-acid batteries for this kind of

un-monitored circuit.

Since we've only got 4.8V max. to work during nighttime we'd need

resistors for usual 3.0-3.6 V LEDs. But if we take orange or red LEDs

which run at 1.9-2.4V we can power 2 of them in series on each channel.

Usually we would have to add a small resistor in each line but since

we're maxed out at 4.8 V anyway ( ideally 2 x 2.4 V, divided between our

two LEDs) and our microcontroller powers the LEDs only for short time

periods via PWM signal we can do without resistors.



Printed Parts:

(1) BackPlate:

Where the wires and LEDs leads are, backside of the hive – structure.


(2)FrontPlate:

The Front of the Hive Structure which will be illuminated by the LEDs.


(3)BackLid:

Covers the leads and wires in the back. Theres also a mirrored version

for the front which can be printed out of translucent material to act as a

light diffusor.


(4) ElectronicsBox:

Where the microcontroller board will be placed.


(7) ElectronicsBoxLid

Covers the microcontroller board, apply silicon lavishly to get it

watertight when everything works satisfactorily. Single hole for cables

leading to the batteries and solar cell.


(10) Solar and Battery Housing

A three part structure for easy printing. Encloses the batteries, toggle

and some electronics.


(11)Solar and Battery Housing Top

Will hold the solar cell.


(12) Solar and Battery Housing Cover

Covers the bottom of the housing, has two central mounting holes for

M5 bolts, a hole for the cables to the microcontroller board and an

optional hole for a switch.


(13) Ball Joint

Connects the hive structure to the battery and solar cell housing if you

want to mount it on top.


(15) Mounting Bracket

A simple bracket to help mount the lamp onto something.


3. Customizer

Use OpenSCAD or Thingiverse MakerBot Customizer to design the 3D

printed parts you'll need to build your own Hive.

You can adjust all the parameters to your likings, in the part selection

menu chose a preview setting like "Preview All Hive Parts" to get started.

With the parameter "Seed" you can change the input for the

randomizing algorithm, simply try different numbers and take a look at

the preview ( F5 in OpenScad ). Often the random pattern is not one

single part, simply change the number to something different if that is

the case.

Or adjust the "Varamount" Variable - it determines how many of the

cells are rendered. It ranges from 1=none to 10=all. Between 6 and 9 are

good values.

Below 5 it will be hard to get one connected part.

"Cell Diameter" determines the diameter of each cell. This plus wall

strength times number of cells in each direction gives you the overall

size of the hive.

"Wall strenth" changes the thickness of the walls around the cells. 1 - 3

are good values, for bigger cell diameters a higher value may look more

pleasing. A higher value will also increase the sturdiness, weight and

printing time of your hive.

"Led Hole Diameter" changes the hole in the middle of each cell. For

5mm LEDs i recommend 5.4, for 3mm LEDs 3.4. You may need to

adjust this parameter depending on your printer & slicing software. The

LEDs should tightly fit into the holes.


"Lengthx" changes the upper number of cells in x-direction,

"Lengthy" in y-direction.

"Heightcell" adjusts the height of each cell, your hive will be a little more

than double that amount.

"Cell Bottom Strength" determines the thickness of the base of each

part. 1 or 2 should be enough.

"Booleanledhole" - here you can disable the LED holes in the middle of

each cell, only useful if you just want to make an hexagonal storage

board or something similar.

Tab "Electronics box":

The electronics box is only needed if you can't fit all the parts in the

back plate. For a simple plugged 12V Lamp or a huge cell diameter you

won't need this part.

"Electronics Length" determines the length of the box, for my small

dswy_robot board a value of 35 gave me enough room to store extra

cables, the width will be determined by the cell diameter. ( ~ 2.5 * cell

diameter )

"Electronics Height" changes the height of the box, it will automatically

add 10 mm to the value for cable management.

"Mphd" changes the width for the mounting plate - a simple plate that

you can screw between the ball joint and the electonics box. The Value

gives you the mounting hole distance.

"Ardumounthole" adds the mounting hole on top of the electronics box

- useful only if you want to add the solar cell and battery box ontop of

your hive with the ball joint.


Tab "Solarcell and battery pack":

Here you can adjust the Box which will contain the battery pack and the

solar cell. Should be pretty self-explanatory.

I may improve some things and add options for different mounting

methods and a rectangular shape for the solar and battery box down

the line.


4. Assembly

Customize your own Hive Lamp or download one of the complete

examples uploaded to Thingiverse.

If you're exporting your own .stl files be sure to use the same

parameters for every part so they will fit later.

Print the Parts, you won't need fancy settings but make sure the wall

strength is sufficient ( 1 mm or more ).

1. Place the front plate of the hive onto the back plate, you can glue

them together if you like ( the LEDs will connect them anyway).

2. Front side down, start pushing the LEDs into the holes from the

back. To make soldering easier align them all in the same way -

long lead (anode) to the left, short lead (cathode) to the right.


You can add up to 40 LEDs to the solar powered lamp.

If you want to add the micro-controller in the printed electronics box

leave 2 suitable holes empty.

Add some drops of super-glue on the edges of each led to seal them.

3. Now you need to connect the LEDs with some wires. 2 LEDs in

series will be connected between a suitable pin of the Arduino and

GND. (Take a look at the circuit diagram!)


A bigger, more readable picture can be found in the Thing Files at

Thingiverse.

The first wire should be long enough to easily reach the micro-controller

board later on, so lay them from one of the empty cells that will later be

used to mount the electronics box to the LED you want to connect and

add 10 cm ( 4 in ).


Solder the wire to the long lead ( anode , + ) of the LED near the head of

the LED and cut off the remaining long lead.

Leave the short one (cathode, -) intact. Do this for exactly half of the

LEDs. Prefer LEDs near the port to the Electronics Box.

After that connect the long lead ( anodes, +) of a random remaining LED

to the short lead (cathode, -) of a random LED we soldered a wire to

earlier.

Make sure the wire connecting 2 LEDs is exactly as long as it needs to

be in order to be laid inside the printed back plate.

Do this for the remaining LEDs until all anodes and half of the cathodes

are connected and shortened.


4. Now use a different colored wire ( preferably black or blue) to

connect all the remaining cathodes together.

5. Take the printed cover for the back plate and try to fit it, if there

are leads in the way bend or shorten them ( if possible ) so it fits.

Use some scissors to cut out the two cells of the back plate lid where

the electronics board will be mounted later and all the wires

unconnected are ending now.


Test each pair of LEDs by briefly connecting them to the charged NiMH

cells or another 4 - 5 V power supply.

( Arduino will work, 5V and GND Pins) Therefore the black "all" cathode

cable is connected to GND ( - ) and the anode of each LED pair is briefly (

! ) connected to VCC ( + ) ( 4 - 5 V ).

Each LED pair should work, if one doesn't check their wiring.

6. If all the LEDs function properly use lots of silicone or water

resistant glue to join the cover / lid and the backplate.


Now pull the wires through the feet of the electronics box.

Use short M5 bolts & nuts to join the cell structure and the electronics

box or use glue or silicone.

7. Now to the micro-controller board. First solder the pins of the the

ISP header.


Now download the Arduino sketch ( the .iso file from Thing Files).

If you don't have Arduino IDE to open the file go to

https://www.arduino.cc/ and download the newest IDE.

Arduino IDE is open source software that makes it easy to write and

upload instruction sets to Atmega micro-controllers.

Adjust the parameters inside the sketch to your liking or improve and

share it.

You will also need the SoftPWM library, it allows up to 20 channels of

PWM output.

Download and installation guide should be here:

https://code.google.com/p/rogue-code/wiki/SoftPWMLibraryDocumenta

tion

Arduino ISP:

Now connect your standalone Arduino to your PC via USB and press

"File" -> "Examples" -> "ArduinoISP".

Under "Tools" tab you can chose the Arduino board you have and the

"com port" where it is connected.

E.g. Arduino Uno on COM3. Now press the Arrow to compile and upload

the Arduino ISP sketch.

In the sketch itself and on

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoISP are some Instructions

https://www.arduino.cc/

https://code.google.com/p/rogue-code/wiki/SoftPWMLibraryDocumentation

https://code.google.com/p/rogue-code/wiki/SoftPWMLibraryDocumentation



how to wire your Arduino as ISP to another micro-controller board to

upload sketches.

Uploading the sketch:

If everything is wired up correctly you can switch to the hive sketch and

use "File" -> "Upload Using a Programmer" to upload it to the small

micro-controller board that will control your hive lamp.

Make sure to select the proper Arduino board under the "Tools" tab (

Arduino mini ).


8. To save energy you can disconnect the power LED on the Arduino

board, nobody will see it mounted inside anyway.

Use your soldering iron to heat and push the SMD resistor right below

the power led out of it's connections.

9. Disconnect the two and now start connecting the LED pair anode

wires to the Pins 0-12 and A0-A5, the cathode cable to a GND pin,

add a long wire to A6 that will later on check the solar cell status

and add a twin paired wire to the power connections VIN and a

spare GND. If not labeled, RXD = Pin 1, TXD = Pin 0.


Lead the three extra wires through the hole of the electronics box

cover.

The length of these wires depend on where you want to mount the

solar cell and battery housing.

10. Solar cell and battery housing:

Solder a 10cm ( 4 in ) wire on the solar cells lead-outs and glue it into

the cut-out of the top cover with the wire running through the hole.


Now screw or glue the top part onto the main part.

Place the battery pack inside.


Funnel the three wires from the controller board through the hole of

the bottom cover.

We'll need to add two 10k Ohm resistors, a diode and the switch to

complete the circuit. I soldered them onto a leftover piece of prototype

board, but you can solder them in between the wires aswell.

The two resistors are connected in series between the wires of the solar

cell. ( Check the wiring Diagram )

The wire from the A6 pin of the micro-controller is connected in

between them.


The diode is connected between the ( + ) wire of the solar cell and the (

+ ) wire of the battery pack. The diodes anode is to face the (+) wire of

the solar cell, the diodes cathode ( marked with a small ring on the

housing ) should face the ( + ) wire of the battery pack.

The diode prevents the batteries to discharge themselves over the solar

cell during the night.


Now also connect the ( + ) wire of the battery pack to the toggle.

Connect the VIN wire from the micro-controller board to the other pin

of the toggle.

Now connect the ( - ) of the solar cell, the battery pack and the GND wire

from the micro-controller board together.

If your batteries are charged you can test the circuits by covering the

solar cell and switching the lamp off and on again.

If you want to mount the solar cell and battery box on top of the lamp

use a M5x25 bolt and M5 nut to join the ball of the ball joint, the

mounting plate and the electronics box.

Cut a M3 thread into the hole on the side of the cup of the ball joint and

add a grub screw or short M3 screw into it (or just glue them together

once aligned).


Use two M5x10 screws to mount the cup of the ball joint onto the solar

cell and battery box.

Cut M3 threads into the pillars of the box.

Now screw the top, main part and bottom cover together with M3

screws.

If everything is operating satisfactorily use plenty of silicone to

waterproof everything if you want to keep it outside.

Push the ball joint together until they connect, place the lamp, align the

solar cell and fasten the grub screw or glue them in place.


6 Operation

Place the Solar Panel at a place that gets lots of sunlight during the day,

preferably facing south.

If you switch it off the batteries will still get charged.

If you turn it on during daytime it will continue to collect energy until the

solar cell can't provide any more energy. Then a countdown starts, if it

stays mostly dark during the next 25 minutes the lights will start their

randomized play.

After 3 hours the light will switch itself off again and wait for daytime to

return (to get charged again).


If you want to turn it on at a random time: cover the solar panel so it is

dark and switch it off and on again.

If it's turned on during darkness it will skip the waiting time and start

right away.

All the values are adjustable to your liking in the Arduino sketch.

If the solar cell doesn't get enough light to keep the batteries charged

you can remove them and charge them with a normal NiMH capable

battery recharger.

I hope it was understandable, English is not my first language and I was

in a hurry. Have fun building your lamp if you decide to do so and post a

picture of when it’s done.

Best regards,

Christoph Queck

assembly instructions - amazon web services · the preview ( f5 in openscad ). often the random...

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