asante issue 14
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inflight,magazineTRANSCRIPT
The infl ight magazine of Air Uganda part of the
your
com
plim
enta
ry c
opy
Issue 14
Arusha
of Ugandan The Rise & Decline
Tanzania’s Multifaceted
Safari Capital
True Blue
Comedy
asante_newlook_cvr2.indd 5 4/19/13 12:38 PM
Asante Issue Num
ber 014 May - July 2013
The IOSA programme is the benchmark for global safety
management in airlines. The programme is an internationally
recognised and accepted evaluation system designed to assess
the operational management and control systems of an airline.
The IOSA registration is a great achievement for Air Uganda,
as it reaffirms our position in the region as a safe and secure
airline.
In addition to all the innovative initiatives the Air Uganda team
is putting in place to give you the traveller the best travel
experience, we are also focusing on ensuring that we operate
in the highest standards of safety. Air Uganda employs skilled
personnel to ensure that the highest levels of operational
standards are met. In conclusion, I would like to thank you
for choosing to fly with Air Uganda and assure you of our
commitment to get you safely to your destination.
You fly, we take care!
Kind Regards,
Roberto Manzi
Technical Director
Flying is not as scary as it was in the past; we get on-
board an aircraft with the same confidence we have when
getting into our cars. This is because of the safety and
security standards the commercial aircraft have achieved over
the years.
It has been a long journey from the first flight of the Wright
brothers back in 17 December 1903, where the aircraft was
made mainly with bicycle parts, wood and fabric, and the
maximum speed was 48 kilometres per hour at an altitude of
no more than 9 metres from ground. Today an aircraft moves
over 850 kilometres per hour at altitudes of 12,000 metres, a
big change indeed.
Apart from technology used in making an aircraft bigger and
safe, it is the concept of preventive maintenance that has totally
changed the safety and security of flights. Let’s take an example
of a car, which needs to be checked and maintained regularly to
keep it running in good condition. If you only go to the garage
when a failure occurs, then the life and safety of the car will
drastically reduce affecting the reliability. It is the same with
an aircraft, it needs to be checked and maintained regularly to
ensure safety.
The maintenance programme of an aircraft requires a lot of
intensive work; a CRJ -200 for instance, requires to be inspected
every night, every week and every three months. Each time
the inspections are more detailed, as well as the skill of the
engineers needed to complete the maintenance.
This is not enough to ensure the safe condition of the aircraft for
the long term; the airplane must be sent to an approved Heavy
Maintenance Facility every two years, to undergo a complex
maintenance revision, which lasts a full month and more than
6,000 hours, and involves very deep inspections, tests and
modifications, in order to keep the aircraft up-to-date with the
latest aviation technology.
The engineers of the aircraft need to keep updated with the
current aircraft systems through detailed and mandatory training
plans.
Maintenance level and professionalism reached in Air Uganda is
one of the highest in this region, and the recent IATA Operational
Safety Audit (IOSA) registration in December 2012, proves that
we are aligned with the best airlines in Africa and Europe.
Welcome aboard this air Uganda flight and thank yoU for choosing to fly With Us.
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 1
Editorial
6 The Rise and Decline of Ugandan Comedy A few years ago comedy in Kampala was booming; every venue worth its salt, from theatres to night clubs, to pubs, had a slot for a comedy show.
10 Kigali Comedy Night Meet East Africa’s comedy kings and queen.
14 Arusha: Tanzania’s Multifaceted Safari Capital It is all at once, a major conference centre, a booming tourist town, an agricultural hub, a missionary outpost and a political ideal.
18 Batty for Fruit Ten million giant straw-coloured fruit bats invade an untouched forest of Zambia, creating one of Africa’s most spectacular natural phenomena.
22 When Soccer Sneezes, Sport Catches a Cold So many plans, aspirations and billions of shillings in sponsorship money could be released to flow freely or …
28 True Blue Discover Tanzanite; a gemstone at least 1,000 times rarer than diamonds.
32 Spellbound by a Charismatic Nyamirambo It is a rare and enduring gift when a neighbourhood welcomes you and makes you, the stranger, feel at home.
36 Dar es Salaam Fish Market Explore one of the largest wholesale fish and seafood markets in Africa with diversity and abundance staggering (more than 400 types).
44 Soaring to New Heights: A Teacher’s Story When you support children to reach for the sky, you will end up in the skies yourself!
46 P is for Pastor “God knows what’s best, take heart, and don’t give up the faith”.
48 Natural Health Solutions Mother Nature to the rescue!
52 Beads of Time We just might discover that this most African of icons is much older than anyone ever expected.
The infl ight magazine of Air Uganda part of the
your
com
plim
enta
ry c
opy
Issue 14
Arusha
of Ugandan The Rise & Decline
Tanzania’s Multifaceted
Safari Capital
True Blue
Comedy
asante_newlook_cvr2.indd 5
4/19/13 12:38 PMAsante Issue N
umber 014 M
ay - July 2013
Regulars
1. editorial
4. air Uganda news
12. What’s Up! east africa
31. asante news
42. bookshelf
54. basic tips for the traveller
55. Useful travel tips
56. air Uganda offices
57. route map
58. abato corner
59. air Uganda flight schedule
60. crossword Puzzle & sudoku
Cover picture: Anne Kansiime, Ugandan comedy queen.
Phot
o ©
Jona
than
Kab
uye
Camerapix Magazines Ltd
Rukhsana Haq
Roger Barnard
Cecilia W. Gaitho
Charles Kamau, Sam Kimani
Azra Chaudhry, U.K
Rose Judha
Rukhsana Haq
Jenifer B. Musiime
Jackie Tumuhairwe
Publishers:
Editorial Director:
Editor:
Editorial Assistant:
Creative Designers:
Production Manager:
Production Assistant:
Editorial Board:
ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili is published quarterly for Air Uganda by Camerapix Magazines Limited | P.O. Box 45048, 00100 GPO Nairobi, KenyaTel: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5 | Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 | E-mail: [email protected]
Editorial and Advertising Offices: Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited | 32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942 | Mobile: +44 79411 21458 E-mail: [email protected]
Air Uganda, Marketing Office | Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4 or +256 (0) 417 717 401Fax: +256 414 500 932 | E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] House, Plot 4, Wampewo Avenue, KololoWebsite: www.air-uganda.com, www.facebook.com/airuganda@airuganda Correspondence on editorial and advertising matters may be sent to either of the above addresses.
©2013
CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTDAll rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced by any means without permission in writing from the publisher. All photographs by Camerapix unless otherwise indicated.
The views expressed in this magazine should only be ascribed to the authors concerned, and do not necessarily reflect the views either of the publishers or of Air Uganda. The printing of an advertisement in Asante does not necessarily mean that the publishers or Air Uganda endorse the company, product or service advertised.
Take me
Home
“
4 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
air Uganda resUmes kilimanJaro flights In May 2013, Air Uganda resumes nonstop flights to Kilimanjaro with four flights per week. The airline will serve the route with a 50-seater CRJ-200 aircraft.
Kilimanjaro is both a tourist and business destination and, by operating flights to the home of the famous Mount Kilimanjaro, Air Uganda is hoping to tap into both sectors. Air Uganda operates flights to all East African capitals: Nairobi, Dar es Salaam, Kigali, Bujumbura and Juba in South Sudan.
In addition to Kilimanjaro, the airline plans to launch flights to Mogadishu, the Somali capital, in July this year.
cornWell mUleya: neW air Uganda boss
Mr. Cornwell Muleya has been appointed Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Air Uganda. Mr. Muleya has extensive airline management experience, having worked as a CEO and CFO for several airlines in Africa, including Air Mauritius, Air Botswana, Air Tanzania Company Ltd and Zambezi Airlines. He joins Air Uganda from ALS Limited in Kenya where he has been the CEO of this growing aircraft leasing business for the past three years. Mr. Muleya is both an Engineer and Chartered Accountant and spent the early part of his career in audit and financial consulting with Deloitte and PricewaterhouseCoopers.
Commenting on his arrival, Mr. Muleya expressed his delight to be part of an exciting and growing airline like Air Uganda. He looked forward to working with the Air Uganda team and the people of Uganda to further develop the airline’s network in order to enhance business and tourism. “I am especially impressed with the quality of the Air Uganda product and will work to ensure the airline continues to delight its customers and becomes a household name, not only in Uganda, but in East Africa and beyond”.
Air Uganda News
air Uganda introdUces lUxUrioUs crane class in dar es salaam March -2013:- Air Uganda launched its luxurious Crane class to the Tanzania market at a cocktail party organized for clients in collaboration with Serena hotel. Crane class is a premium class product offering targeting the more sophisticated traveler.
Crane class is designed to give the Air Uganda client a stress free travel experience from the time the client purchase his ticket to arrival at his destination. With this offering the client enjoys a separate check in counter to reduce the time spent in queues, he has access to the Airport lounge where he gets to relax and have a meal as he awaits his flight. The customer gets an extra baggage allowance. On board a crane class passenger gets an extra seat for his own personal space.
“The class is modeled between economy and business class, is designed to offer comfort and ease when travelling and therefore offering a dignified experience for our clients,” said Lucy Ismail , the Tanzania Country Manager while introducing the new product to the guests.
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6 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
THE RISE AND DECLINE
OF UGANDAN
COMEDYTHE RISE AND DECLINE
OF UGANDAN
COMEDY
entertainmentPh
otos
© J
onat
han
Kabu
ye
A few years ago comedy in Kampala was booming but now audiences have become more discerning says Jonathan Kabuye.
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 7
In 2010 the reality show
Stand Up Uganda hit town, and since that time the entertainment industry has never been the same.
If you were in Kampala about two years
ago, you would think that the Ugandan
entertainment scene was ruled by one thing
– comedy. Anywhere you looked, whatever
day of the week it was, crowds jammed venues to
attend comedy sessions. It was the in thing to do.
Every venue worth its salt, from theatres to night
clubs to pubs, had a slot for a comedy show. Some
were doing sketches, but the new thing was ‘stand-
up’. And Kampala just could not get enough of it.
It was a strange sight because, just a year before,
comedy largely consisted of ‘slapstick’ – guys dressed
in funny clothes clowning around on stage. It had
its genesis in the country’s troubled times, when
serious theatre was not a safe thing to get involved
in, so making people laugh was the way to go.
It remained that way even when all the insecurity
was a thing of the distant past. But in 2010 the
reality show Stand Up Uganda hit town, and since
that time the entertainment industry has never
been the same.
First were the recording sessions, which gained
a celebrity status, and anyone who was anyone
in Kampala just had to be there. If you were not
invited, you sulked all the way to the next recording
session.
Because stand-up was relatively new, many of the contestants tried to retell internet jokes, and their attempts were hilarious. And when it was finally aired on TV the whole nation stopped to watch. The guys who made it to the finals were instant celebrities, which they soon turned into a lot more money than the $10,000 that was won by the
winners.
Several groups sprung up, and the winner of Stand
Up Uganda, Pablo, had full houses on his weekly
Pablo Live show. Theatre Factory got together
several talented comedians and held shows every
Thursday at the National Theatre. In fact these
were to be the largest attended comedy events,
watched by more than 1,000 people per show.
The Crackers had a popular youth attendance at their
Wednesday shows at Effendy’s in Centenary Park, which
included Daniel Omara and Patrick ‘Salvado’ Idringi (first and
second runner-up, Stand Up Uganda).
Happy days ruled, but it was not to last for long. Within a year
both Theatre Factory and the Crackers had split, and members
left to start other groups. Pablo stopped his show, saying he
had only planned it for two seasons, then went off and got
married.
What happened? Industry observers give several reasons for
the drop in comedy attendances that resulted. Many say the
comedians became repetitive, and stopped being creative.
“They started taking the audiences for granted, and would
repeat the same jokes wherever they went,” one said. “The
exposure they got also opened other doors for them and they
ended up doing so many things they had very little time to be
creative and come up with new stuff.”
Many of the top comedians were in high demand to Emcee
functions, and several were taken on as radio and TV
presenters.
The unexpected boom in demand for comedy acts also
took them by surprise, and they did not have time to treat
it professionally. Several did not have managers, and would
search for appearances and sponsorship deals themselves.
Others claim the audience for stand-up comedy was really not
that big, and it was just the novelty that attracted the initial
big numbers.
“It needs a bit of intellectualism to appreciate stand-up, and
that market was not adequately exploited,” one industry
watcher said. “It is there, but the comedians need to know
how to deal with it.”
8 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
Comedy in 2013
Three years after Stand Up Uganda, the comedy scene is
still active, although not as vibrant as it was two years ago.
Below are the main acts and comedians:
Pablo
After a hiatus, he is back at Oasis Mall’s The Hub,
performing every last Friday of the month.
Fun Factory
Formerly members of the Theatre Factory before they left en
masse and put up home barely 100 metres down the road
from the National Theatre where they used to perform. They
soon moved to the Plaza, but are now back at the National
Theatre every Thursday. They have two of the best female
comedians in the country, Anne Kansiime and Veronica
Tindichweba. Richard Tuwangye and Hannington Bugingo are
also members.
The Crackers
This group was very successful at Effendy’s, and attracted a
youthful crowd, but it soon broke into two and the original
members, Patrick Idingiri, Alex Muhangi and Daniel Omara
then moved to the Theatre La Bonita, but audience numbers
are still down.
Anne Kansiime
Many consider her as the current face of Ugandan comedy.
She has a television show that has some of the highest
ratings ever, even if the production is not top notch, and
also performs with the Fun Factory. But she has become
something of an internet sensation, and her video clips have
brought her international fame.
Anne KansiimeThe Crackers
Veronica Tindichweba
8 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
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Eric Omondi (Kenya) Anne Kansiime (Uganda) Patrick Salvador (Uganda) Klint the Drunk (Nigeria) David Ndahiro (Rwanda) Senjuva (Rwanda)
From Left to rightComedy Kings East Africa’s
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a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 1 1
1 2 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
16TH INDUSMACH 2013 - TANZANIAThe 16th INDUSMACH 2013 - International Trade Exhibition on Industrial Products, Equipment & Machinery is the largest trade event held annually in Tanzania. The exhibition attracts exhibitors from more than 20 countries and visitors from all over East & Central Africa, thus giving exhibitors an excellent opportunity to
explore several countries in one time.VENUE: Diamond Jubilee Hall, Malik Road, Upanga West Dar es Salaam, TanzaniaWEBSITE: http://expogr.com/tanzania/indexpo/
UMEC UGANDA MINING AND ENERGY CONFERENCE AND EXHIBITION 2013UMEC 2013 is a turnkey event focusing on the Republic of Uganda’s mining, energy and petroleum potential and their sustainable development. The main theme of UMEC 2013 is “Development through Sustainable Management of Uganda’s Energy & Mineral Resources”. The event will be organized by the Ministry of Energy & Mineral Development, Republic of Uganda, in association with AME Trade Ltd. VENUE: Serena Hotel, Kampala, Republic of UgandaWEBSITE: http://www.umec-uganda.com/
16th AUTOEXPO 2013 The 16th AUTOEXPO 2013 - International Trade Expo on Automotives, Spare parts, Accessories & Transportation is the largest trade event held annually in Tanzania. The exhibition attracts exhibitors from more than 28 countries and visitors from all over East & Central Africa, thus giving exhibitors an excellent opportunity to explore several countries in one time.VENUE: Diamond Jubilee Hall, Dar-es-Salaam, Tanzania WEBSITE: http://expogr.com/tanzania/autoexpo/index.php
LAKE TURKANA CULTURAL FESTIVALThe Lake Turkana Festival takes place for the 5th consecutive year in Loyangalani town, on the shores of the awe-inspiring Jade Sea this May. The 10 ethnic groups of the Lake Turkana region - El Molo, Rendille, Samburu, Turkana, Dassanach, Ghabra, Borana, Konso, Wata and Burji - demonstrate through song and dance their unique differences and traditions. The underlying goal remains the promotion of peace and the appreciation of these fascinating tribes.VENUE: Loiyangalani, Kenya
16TH BUILDEXPO AFRICA 2013 Exhibitors from 35 countries. Visitors from 11 African Countries. Welcome to Africa’s Largest International Building and Construction Trade Fair.VENUE: Kenyatta International Conference Centre, NairobiWEBSITE: http://expogr.com/buildexpokenya/
COMMONWEALTH LOCALGOVERNMENT CONFERENCEThe Commonwealth Local Government Conference is the most important international event in the local government calendar. The conference is expected to attract some 600 high-level politicians, policy-makers and practitioners from Africa, Europe, the Pacific and the Caribbean to meet and learn about new ideas, approaches, and practice that can support their councils to deliver better services. It is also attended by partners from the private sector, development agencies and civil society. VENUE: Kampala, UgandaWEBSITE: http://www.clgc2013.org
GORILLA NAMING CEREMONYThe traditional Kwita Izina naming ceremony in which community members suggest names for a new born infant has been adopted for the gorillas. Park guides suggest names for all young gorillas born in the past year, generally based on observed behaviour and characteristics. The naming is accompanied by traditional music and dance and the event helps to raise funds for conservation. You can even ‘adopt’ the gorilla of your choice.Venue: Kinigi, Musanze District, Northern ProvinceAddress: Kinigi, RwandaEvent cost: Free, but donations expected
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 1 3
UGANDA FILM FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL: 2013The 1st annual Uganda International Film Festival, also to be known as ‘UFFI’ is scheduled to take place from July 11-15 2013 in Kampala, Uganda, and aims to host more than 300 stakeholders and an audience of over 1,000 film professionals and enthusiasts.VENUE: Kampala, UgandaWEBSITE: http://www.ugandafilmfestivalinternational.org/
RHINO CHARGE The Rhino Charge is an annual off road motorsport competition that has been held in Kenya since 1989. It is a unique and exciting competition that requires bravery and a high level of skill in off-road driving and navigation. The event, organized by The Rhino Ark Charitable Trust, is held to raise funds for a very noble cause – conservation of Kenya’s Aberdare Ecosystem.VENUE: Laikipia Plateau, KenyaWEBSITE: http://www.rhinocharge.co.ke/home.html
BAYIMBA GULU REGIONAL FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS In 2010 the Bayimba Cultural Foundation introduced a series of one-day Regional Festivals of the Arts to be organised annually in towns across Uganda. They provide a platform for artistic talents from the regions in Uganda while aiming to enhance access to artistic and cultural expressions countrywide, thereby supporting the development of the local arts scene. In 2013, four towns will be hosting these exciting multidisciplinary Bayimba Regional Festivals: Gulu, Jinja, Mbarara, Mbale:JINJA Bayimba Regional Festival: 11th May, 2013MBARARA Bayimba Regional Festival: 1st June, 2013MBALE Bayimba Regional Festival: 6th July, 2013
LEWA (SAFARICOM) MARATHON 2013One of the 10 ‘must do’ marathons in the world.The Safaricom Marathon attracts participants from all over the globe who come to compete for a good cause. A unique event that not only tests your limits but also gives you an opportunity to enjoy a real African Safari!VENUE: Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, Laikipia Plateau, KenyaWEBSITE: http://www.safaricom.co.ke/safaricommarathon/
THE ROUTE DEVELOPMENT FORUM FOR AFRICA Hosted by Civil Aviation Authority of Uganda and Entebbe International Airport, Routes Africa is the key event for airports, airlines, tourism authorities, policy leaders, keynote speakers and exhibitors to meet, do business and plan for the future.VENUE: Kampala, Uganda WEBSITE: http://www.routesonline.com/ events/159/routes-africa-2013/
1 4 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
By David Pluth
ArushaTanzania’s Multifaceted Safari Capital
By David Pluth.
ArushaTanzania’s Multifaceted Safari Capital
destination
Cultural Heritage Centre in Arusha, Tanzania.
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 1 5
Nature at ease: cheetah spotted at Ngorongoro Crater, 180 kilometres west of Arusha.
Phot
os ©
Aria
dne
Zand
berg
en
1 6 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
It is, all at once, a major conference centre, a booming tourist town, an agricultural hub, a missionary outpost and a political ideal.
In May 2013, Air Uganda will commence flights
to Kilimanjaro International Airport, Arusha,
marking its seventh destination with Entebbe
being the hub. The launch of this new route will
highlight Air Uganda’s ambitious plan to expand its
network and provide seemless travel and accessibility
to passengers flying within East Africa.
Arusha has been described as the wildlife safari capital
of the world. And it was here, in 1961, that Britain
signed documents officially ceding independence to
Tanzania. Before, after and in-between, the town
has been more of a concept or an idea than a city as
it splashes out across the plains below the majestic
Mount Meru. It is, all at once, a major conference
centre, a booming tourist town, an agricultural hub,
a missionary outpost and a political ideal.
The major industry for the region, other than tourism,
is agriculture. With its excellent transport systems
connecting it by air and road to Nairobi and the
ports of Dar es Salaam, Mombasa and Tanga, it has
become one of Africa’s leading growers of cut flowers,
vegetables, seed beans, coffee and tea. Surrounded
by old tree-lined, shaded coffee plantations, some
of which are now giving way to luxury resorts, the
landscape is ever changing and vibrant.
The town is divided into two basic sections, the
west side being the commercial hub for the local
businesses and agriculture, and the east side the
tourist centre, with the main post office and a thriving
street trade of batiks and souvenirs. The exception
to this is the gigantic museum, craft and trade fair,
Cultural Heritage, on the far west side of town, out
near the massive headquarters for Tanzania National
Parks and Arusha airport from where charter flights
(more than 90,000 passengers a year) to all the parks
and game reserves can be boarded. In the tourist
centre of Arusha, on the main roundabout, known
as the Clock Tower, you can stand at the midway
point between Cape Town and Cairo and dream the
dreams of adventurers and explorers or hark back to
the swashbuckling actor John Wayne in the film Hatari
(Danger), shot at the nearby Arusha National Park.
Be sure to spend an hour or two in the large local
market just to the west of the centre of town.
Nearby, the only Tanzanite mine in the world is
producing gemstones for the fine jewellery trade.
And, on clear morning, from a rooftop terrace, you
can catch a glimpse of the glistening snows of Mount
Kilimanjaro.
The Arusha National Park – an easy 40-minute
drive from Arusha – is a multi-faceted jewel, often
overlooked by safari-goers. The park has a beguiling
diversity of habitats since its altitude ranges from
1,500 metres (5,000 feet) to the 4,566 metre
(14,990 feet)-high Mount Meru, the fifth highest
peak in Africa.
The entrance gate leads into shadowy montane
forest inhabited by exotic monkeys and birds. In the
midst of the forest lies the spectacular Ngurdoto
Crater with its steep rocky cliffs and wide marshy
floor dotted with herds of buffalo and warthog.
Further north, rolling grassy hills enclose the tranquil
beauty of the Momela Lakes, home to countless
Phot
o ©
Davi
d Pl
uth/
Cam
erap
ix P
ublis
hers
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 1 7
resident and migrant waterbirds, including the spectacular pink
flamingo.
Mount Meru, which dominates the western end of the Park
offers unparalleled views of its famous neighbour – Kilimanjaro
– whilst its slopes are also a rewarding hiking destination in its
own right.
Visitors to Arusha arrive through the efficient Kilimanjaro
International Airport (KIA) about 60km east of town, in the
direction of Moshi. The immigration and customs formalities
are simple and carried out by friendly uniformed officials.
Credit cards are accepted at most of the good tourist hotels
in Arusha, and there are plenty of those. New resorts, spas
and upper level accommodation is being built in and near the
city every day. There are even wine and cigar bars in town!
US dollars, Euros and Pounds Sterling are accepted at all the
banks and foreign exchange kiosks.
The finest restaurants are found in the good hotels in town
and the luxury resorts just on the outskirts of the city. Prices
are somewhat less than one would pay for an equivalent meal
in Europe or the US. Taxi fares are quite fair, but you should
bargain hard and settle on a price with the driver before you
start your journey.
On the day you set out for your safari the Tanzanian countryside
will skim by almost too quickly as you glide along smooth paved
highways. In less than two hours you can be at Tarangire or
Manyara National Park. A little more than 30 minutes further
and you reach the gates of the Noah’s Ark of Africa, the famed
Ngorongoro Crater. There the paved road ends, but another
2-3 hours (depending on how often you stop to gaze in total
awe at the landscape and animals) and you will find yourself in
the world’s premier national park, Serengeti.
Things are changing all the time in Arusha. While you are
gone for a week or two on your safari, something will have
been built, or something will have changed by the time you
get back to town. A quick Google search of the name Arusha
will yield more than two million hits of city information,
hotels, nightlife, safari companies, airlines and investment
opportunities. Try them all. Just for fun. Get in the spirit of
being in Arusha! •
Left:Uhuru Monument, Arusha, Tanzania.
Opposite: Climbers passing the Furtwangler Glacier on their way to the summit.
Arusha has been described
as the wildlife safari
capital of the world.
Air Uganda flights to
Kilimanjaro International
Airport, Arusha Four times
a week
Batty for Fruit It’s been one of natures best kept secrets for years that only a lucky few have ever witnessed. Ten million giant straw-coloured fruit bats invade an untouched forest of Zambia, creating one of Africa’s most spectacular natural phenomena. In the twilight at dawn and dusk the bats swarm chaotically over the high branches of the woodland in a whirling blizzard. But this isn’t the place of horror; this feeding-frenzy migration is one of nature’s epic displays of sheer wonder. Text by Philip Dickson, photos by David Godny..
Adventure
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 1 9
It’s 4am and we are already up, creeping through tangled,
matted vegetation, feeling our way towards what appears
to be an apocalyptic wilderness where trees are shorn of
their branches, leaving a skeletal forest no bigger than two
or three football pitches. Blinking through the inky blackness,
talking in hushed whispers under a chilly star-studied sky, we
trudge and stumble across the muddy swamp forest. The
beams from our head-torches bob along in a lulling rhythm
illuminating an onslaught of biting night insects and I’m
relieved when we finally stop at the base of a massive red
mahogany tree.
Bastiaan, our guide, signals that somewhere in the
darkness above, hidden deep in the canopy 20m
(metres) from the ground, are two viewing
platforms. Apparently this rustic hide was
built for the British Broadcasting Corporation
specifically to film the bat migration. Slowly
and warily I clamber up the narrow rickety
ladder in the half-light pulling myself on to a
tiny, creaking deck. Nothing had quite prepared
me for the primordial view. Thunderclouds of bats,
eerily visible thanks to the bright moonlight, swarm
over the misty equatorial rainforest, chattering noisily as they
return from their long night of foraging. Huge silhouetted
squadrons spiral haphazardly overhead from horizon to horizon,
almost colliding, landing clumsily into the overcrowded roost.
Crawling upwards they use their short legs and long thumbnail
on their wings, cramming together to hang tightly like leather
pouches on a market stall. Sadly some branches inevitably
buckle under their sheer weight sending bats and debris
crashing to the forest floor and an unlucky few are either
crushed or grabbed by a lurking crocodile or stealthy raptor.
This spectacular event in Zambia is now considered to
be one of the largest animal migrations anywhere on the
planet. Although on the scale of an epic biblical plague, at
close quarters the bats are unexpectedly cute and comical
and certainly not the menacing beasts of horror films.
Overdosed and ‘high’ on pure sugar from their high-octane
fruit diet the bats fidget and squabble excitedly before
they settle down in the roost, spooking easily by gusts
of wind and menacing eagles. Watching them flapping
and squeaking in the dawn light through binoculars I can
see why they are sometimes called ‘flying foxes’, with
mischievous bright-eyed chihuahua-like faces and the soft
golden fur of a faithful retriever.
Kasanka National Park is a lush, marshy remote corner of
northern Zambia that becomes the largest fruit bat
roost on earth for six weeks each year. First
noticed in the 1990s, over 10 million fruit
bats are drawn from the great rainforests
of the Congo between October and
December, crowding together in a
tiny patch of Mushitu swamp forest
for a gorging bonanza. Mystery
surrounds their lifecycle and migration
but with a wingspan measuring nearly
a metre and an average body weight over
250g (grammes) the bats are powerful fliers
capable of great distances. Each night they forage on
an eruption of ripe waterberries, mangoes and loquats over
50km (kilometres) away from the roost, easily consuming
over twice their own weight in fruit.
Getting to Kasanka was not as tricky as I’d first thought.
We boarded Kilimanjaro on the Tazara Railway in Dar
es Salaam for one of Africa’s classic overland journeys.
Climbing the great plateau near Mbeya we crawled to
almost 2,000 metres above sea level before descending
into vast lowlands, threading our way through the Selous
Game Reserve. Forty-eight hours later Kilimanjaro’s
wheels clatter to a grinding halt against the metal track
and the hollow hoot of her whistle means we’ve arrived
in Zambia.
The spectacular event in Zambia is now considered to be one of the largest animal
migrations anywhere on the planet.
2 0 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
As the main safari season in the wildlife-rich Luangwa
Valley winds down, Norman Carr Safaris - the original
pioneer of bush walking - lay on their first guided
bat-safari. In less than an hour we’ve hopped over the
escarpment that prevents direct road access to Kasanka
in a tiny Cessna, and bush-pilot Brad banks hard over
Lake Wasa in a stomach-churning flyby, pointing out
the stunted woodland where unbelievably 10 million
fruit bats roost. Bumping over the midday thermals,
the forest below certainly looks eerie through the
heat-haze, as if stripped by some kind of disease,
pestilence or drought.
On the ground Bastiaan, our passionate volunteer host,
welcomes us to Wasa Lodge, nestling on the edge of
the lake fringed with wild yellow flowers and home to
hippos, crocs and prolific bird life. Kasanka is Zambia’s
only privately managed national park and, although tiny,
it punches way above its weight in terms of attractions.
The shy and elusive sitatunga is another of Kasanka’s
celebrity residents. Preferring its marshy papyrus
swamps, the aerial viewing platform at Fibwe hide has
become one of the best places in Africa to see this rare
semi-aquatic antelope.
Our home for a couple of days is a typically old-fashioned
African camp with 10 thatched rondavel huts, each with
its own veranda overlooking the lake with woodlands
behind. The joy of Kasanka is its raw simplicity - it’s
remote, rustic and exposed.
Even showers must be requested in advance to allow our
rooftop tank to be filled by hand but, despite the isolation,
culinary miracles are served by hard-working Boyd at
communal tables in the main lodge. Without barriers
between my hut and the wild I listen to the pulsating
bush sounds from under my blanket and shrivel into my
own insignificance. Nowhere could you feel more humble
and incidental to the grand scheme of things.
Kasanka’s low-impact approach to conservation allows
only two guided walks to the bat roost each day and
this evening we get to see the bats flying out at sunset.
Leaving in the late afternoon we skirt around the bat
colony in single file, wading through thigh-deep grass
In every direction bats reveal themselves, rapidly filling the sky. Tens of thousands become hundreds of thousands.
and murky reed-beds. The smelly,
decomposing vegetation squishes and
squelches beneath my boots and the
back of my neck still slow-roasts in the
fading heat. As we edge closer to the
woodland in the eerie twilight, the trees
stand stark and forlorn, decimated by
the immense weight of 10 million fruit
bats. And then I see one, a lone fruit
bat wriggling helplessly in the merciless
talons of a martial eagle. Bastiaan
whispers that Africa’s largest eagle has
learnt to hunt bats on the wing, caught
for the first time on film recently by
the BBC for David Attenborough’s Life
Stories and his new Africa TV series.
Reaching the three interconnected
ground level hides in the Bupata area
we creep in, looking directly into the
After only half an hour the bats have
dispersed but my adrenalin levels still
pound in the wake of the magical
experience we’ve shared in awed silence.
In the deep, lingering calm we reluctantly
pack away our cameras and binoculars and
turn-on our head-torches to leave the roost.
Plodding back in the cool night-air the
brightest beam is the one firmly fixed from
ear to ear as we squelch through riverine
marshes, smiling all the way to our lodge.
Squeezing myself into Brad’s Cessna
after a good nights sleep, I’m excited
about returning to the big game of
the Luangwa Valley, not to mention a
few creature comforts. Witnessing the
spectacular bat migration at Kasanka may
not be everyone’s choice for their first
safari holiday. But when you’ve already
seen the ‘big five’ and don’t need all that
pampering; when you want to get close
to wildlife but somewhere a little wilder,
a little more challenging; a thrilling bat
safari at Kasanka would be at the top of
my list. •
bat roost. In the unspoken stillness of
the hide I sense a calm descending
over the forest as the light wanes and
what seemed like huge clusters of
giant seed pods dangling from ragged
branches slowly wriggle to life. The
tangled treetops twitch and tremble
and an incessant chattering builds,
intensifying to a ‘roaring-rapids’ pitch
as the canopies explode with swirling
life. Restless, hungry bats pour out of
the woodland in bewildering numbers
into the gathering darkness for a night
journey across the forests to feed on
a seasonal glut of wild fruit. Bastiaan
appears at my side urging us to join him
on the high ground behind the hides.
Caught in the grip of anticipation we
race outside. In every direction bats
reveal themselves, rapidly filling the sky.
Tens of thousands become hundreds of
thousands. In chaos and commotion
against the fading blackness, millions
sweep over our heads, silhouetted
against a magnificent sunset in an epic
360 degree panoramic bat plague.
Planning your bat safari:-
Air Uganda: www.air-uganda.com
Kasanka Trust: www.kasanka.com
Tazara Railway: www.tazarasite.com
Norman Carr Safaris:
www.normancarrsafaris.com
Sky Trails: www.skytrailszambia.com Plot 51/53, Windsor Crescent. Tel: +256-31-2391 000 / +256-414-391 000E-mail: [email protected], Web: www.metropolekampala.com
2 2 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
When Soccer Sneezes, Sport catches a coldbillions of sponsorship money could be lost as Ugandan football bureaucrats agree to disagree, says Joseph Kabuleta.
sportsPh
otos
© J
osep
h Ka
bule
ta
When Supersport unveiled the fullness of their plan, ... the nation was positively stunned.
A few years ago Kenya had two Football Federations,
both struggling for legitimacy, and two football
leagues. One was recognised by the government
and the other by the world soccer governing body,
FIFA. The situation was a mess.
The Ugandan game wasn’t exactly thriving at the time either,
but at least it couldn’t plunge to the depths of our neighbours,
or so we imagined. The conflict in Nairobi, which attracted a
FIFA ban at one stage, provided some comic relief from our own
problems.
“At least we are better off than Kenya,” was the response of
every football official tasked to explain the growing apathy
towards the local game and the ever-dwindling number of fans
at Super League matches.
Five years down the road, tables have been turned.
Kenyan league football is healthier than it has been in decades
while the Ugandan game seems to have caught the ‘Kenyan
bug’, so to speak. There have been several attempts at creating
a rival football governing body in Uganda, even if most of them
were lacklustre and often humorous. But one rival federation
went as far as unveiling a new national coach who went ahead
to call up his Cranes team. That one lasted long enough to give
Ugandans a good laugh.
But nobody is laughing over the current situation with the
national league which has left the entire nation in a spin and
2 4 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
their own league was hardly revolutionary, even at the
time. It had been successfully implemented around the
world with Uganda being one of the latest converts.
In most countries, however, the Football Federations
didn’t give up league management without a fight. In
England, where a club-run league was first actualised,
the Premier League won its freedom through a
lengthy legal process in which it argued that top-flight
clubs, being profit-driven Public Limited Companies,
couldn’t surrender their financial interests to a non
profit-making institution like the English Football
Association.
That is the same argument that has won clubs across
the world the right to run their own affairs. The
overwhelming commercial success of the English
Premier League with its mind-blowing sponsorship
figures has made it a model for other countries.
While in every other country clubs first fight before they
get independence from the federations, in Uganda
independence came first then the fight followed.
So many plans, aspirations and billions of shillings could be released to flow freely orpermanently blocked by one decision.
threatens to thwart record sponsorship deals that
extend beyond football.
Two-league Confusion
There was a time not too long ago when running the
Super League was more of a burden to the national
federation than a privilege. Clubs were so badly
managed and the enthusiastic fans that once financed
the venture through ticket purchases were conspicuous
by their absence. Most fans had bought into the craze
that is televised English Premiership football and
typically found it easier to associate with glamorous
brands like Arsenal or Manchester United than with the
confusion at local giants like KCC FC or SC Villa. With
the indifference towards local football growing worse
every season, sponsors had long folded their wallets
and left.
At the height of the downturn, when the situation
couldn’t get any worse, it got better. The top-flight clubs
decided to register the Uganda Super League (USL) Ltd,
a company co-owned by all of them that would take
over running the league. The idea of clubs managing
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 2 5
sneezed. The first corporate company weighed in with
a package that kick-started a trend. When Ecobank
unveiled a Shs200m sponsorship, the deal was
much more than its money’s worth. It was a vote of
confidence.
“We are all well aware of the challenges Ugandan
football has been facing,” the Pan African bank’s
managing director Dele Alabi said at the unveiling
in Kampala, “But those problems are not unique to
Uganda.”
The ceremony was not attended by any of the
Football Federation officials, however, as signs of a
fractured relationship with the USL started to show.
When figures for the 2010/11 season were
computed, it was noted with satisfaction that match
attendances had improved by 20 per cent from the
previous year, ending 15 years of a steady downslide.
But the best and the worst were yet to come.
It was the landmark sponsorship of Supersport
that was, in many respects, a game-changer. In
April 2011, the South African broadcasting giants
unveiled a $5m (shs12b) five-year package that
was set to propel league football to unimaginable
heights. When Supersport unveiled the fullness of
their plan, which included showing as many as 80
live league matches, local language commentary,
improving stadiums and pitches across the country,
media seminars and many such things, the nation
was positively stunned.
And before they could get over the intoxication of
the Supersport deal, Uganda Breweries, under the
Bell brand, broke stride with the often cautious
approach to football sponsorship and weighed in with
a shs2.2b three-year deal.
But not everybody was happy. By mid 2011, the cold
war between USL and the federation had become
open combat, fought in and serialised by the media.
It escalated into the federation starting their own
league, the FUFA Super League (FSL).
At the time when a club demanded to manage their own affairs,
there was nothing to fight for. FUFA, the local soccer governing
body, was glad to hand over the carcass of a dysfunctional
league to the clubs.
The newly incorporated Uganda Super League set about making
simple changes aimed at returning the confidence of the fans.
They decided that it wasn’t wise to enforce direct competition
with the English Premiership. They shifted local matches to
Tuesday and Friday evenings so that adherents to foreign
leagues could enjoy the best of both worlds. It turned out to be
an inspired decision because fans started trickling back.
Return of Corporate Sponsorship
After a couple of months of resuscitation, the dead man
2 6 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
Blick said that the train of optimism in rugby had slowed down
to a near halt after hitting record speeds in the immediate
aftermath of the 2011 sponsorship deals.
“There are so many things we lost out because of the current
confusion in football. And that’s hurting us because part of our
contract negotiations with title sponsors like Nile Breweries was
based on Supersport’s live coverage.
“Failure to meet our contractual obligations to have live matches
is blocking our sponsorship. We are limping.”
The rugby president estimated that the wrangles across the
fence in soccer had made his federation lose as much as
$200,000 (shs500m) through the suspension of live coverage.
The Chief Executive Officer of Uganda Cricket Association
Justine Ligyalingi was singing a similar melancholy tune.
“Since football wrangles intensified, we have lost out on live
coverage because it would be too expensive for Supersport to
come for only rugby and cricket,” he said.
So many plans, aspirations and billions of shillings in sponsorship
money could be released to flow freely or permanently blocked
by one decision. With bated breath, the nation waits for the
minister to make her ruling. •
Nightmare for Clubs and Sponsors
Unsure which league to feature in – with the FUFA version
claiming continental legitimacy but the USL boasting of
sponsorship money – most clubs decided to play in both.
The sponsors initially stood by and hoped that the standoff
would be sorted out one way or another. But it simply intensified.
When Supersport threatened to pull out of Uganda altogether,
the minister of Education and Sports stepped in.
Other Sports Suffering
Now it’s clear that when football sneezes, other sports catch
a cold.
In September 2011, five months after the football deal,
Supersport spread its wings into rugby and signed a $750,000
annual sponsorship deal with the Uganda Rugby Union (UFU)
for live broadcasts of all international games, as well as key
League and Cup fixtures.
Around the same time, the broadcasters also entered a sponsorship
deal with the Uganda Cricket Association (UCA), making the picture
look all that much rosier for Ugandan sport.
But when soccer descended into chaos, Supersport temporarily
suspended live coverage, not just of football but of other sports too.
“It’s true we were riding on football,” William Blick, the Uganda
Rugby Union president admitted. “Supersport would never
come to Uganda to do live broadcasts of rugby or cricket only.”
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 2 7
The Jewel from Mother Africa by Patricia Hughes Scott.
True Blue
Phot
os ©
Ony
x Je
wel
lers
Nai
robi
beauty
A gemstone of violet blue beauty was discovered in 1967, and named TANZANITE - a gemstone at least 1,000 times rarer than diamonds.
2 8 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
What is the lure of gemstones? Why have they been so prized
through the centuries? Why are the crowns of kings and
queens studded with precious jewels? Why do women covet
them, and men pay exorbitant prices to give their ladylove the gemstone
of their choice? Why have people desired them so much they have killed
to own them?
Who can say why these products of Mother Earth are so valued, so coveted?
But the fact remains that jewels are prized, and fortunes are made in their
production – where would South Africa be without its diamond mines, or
Colombia without its emerald mines, for example? Gemstones never lose
their value. Smart people have preserved their fortunes in economic times
of hardship by putting their money into gemstones.
Gemstones are as old as time itself. As the crust of the earth hardened
millennia ago and the continental plates forced mountains aloft and valleys
under, they pushed together the elements that created all gems, their type
and rarity being determined there and then. In East Africa there are several
types of gemstones found – amethysts, rubies, sapphires, tourmalines,
aquamarines and rhodolite are mined in small sizes and quantities,
especially in the Taita Taveta area of Kenya’s coast province. But these are
gemstones which are found in other places in the world.
In only one place the forces that shaped our earth created a particular
gemstone - and they only created it once. In the foothills of Tanzania’s
Mt. Kilimanjaro, in the northern part of the country in the traditional land
of the Maasai a gemstone of violet blue beauty was discovered in 1967,
and named TANZANITE - a gemstone at least a thousand times rarer than
diamond
,000 times rarer than diamonds.
Foundation
The Tanzanite Foundation was founded in 2003 by the Tanzanian government
and is committed to developing, maintaining, and communicating
confidence in Tanzania’s integrity and gaining stakeholder cooperation in
the formalisation of the development and marketing Tanzanite. Subsidiary
but important aims are those of ecological preservation and benefits to the
people of the area.
It is a curious fact that Maasai men will not go underground, so they are
not employed as miners, but they can - and do - deal in buying and selling
the stones. It is not clear why they will not go down the mines, but ethnic
beliefs and traditions are very strong in the culture of African castes, and
the Maasai are very proud people who, among all the tribes of East Africa,
have remained the most inviolate, the less touched and the least influenced
and coerced by the practices of the modern world and the lure of money.
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 2 9
3 0 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
This area of the world has an ecological environment
like no other (it is in fact recognised as a geological,
environmental phenomenon) so there was no tried
and tested method of locating the stones or bringing
them to the surface and, for this and other reasons,
this amazing, rare and beautiful stone has proved
extremely difficult to copy in order to produce a
synthetic variety, as has been done with other
gemstones.
To reach their finished state, ready for marketing, the
tanzanite stones are heated
at a moderate temperature.
This compliments the natural
process, putting tanzanite
into a very stable state with
no structural or chemical
alteration. The colour is
natural and permanent. This
varies from a rich velvety blue
to an exotic violet. The more
intense the colour, the rarer
the tanzanite and this affects
the price which is calculated
by carats.
Precious Stones
The definition of a precious stone is that it must share
three important traits – beauty, rarity and durability.
Tanzanite is classed as a precious stone. It has a
similar hardness to emeralds but is less brittle.
The four Cs generally describing precious stones
are colour, cut, clarity and carat. The Tanzanite
Foundation claim they have a fifth C: Confidence -
which they offer in their dealings in the gemstone.
It is remarkable but true that in this small corner
of the world, under the shadow of Africa’s tallest
mountain, lies the only known source of this unique
gemstone, discovered less than 50 years ago, and
which can only become rarer as it has been reliably
calculated that in less than two decades the last
stone will be mined. From that moment on, there
will be no more tanzanite.
The end – two words that mean so much: the end
of an era . . . the end of the line . . . the end of
tanzanite. Those who have purchased this gemstone
now will, in the future, have an heirloom to cherish.•
Footnote: The Tanzanite Foundation recommend
clients purchase these gemstones only from
reputable jewellers who carry their trademark logo.
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 3 1
Voted ‘kenya’s leading resort’ 2012 for the 3rd year running at the
prestigious World travel awards, leopard beach resort & spa has a
well-earned reputation for excellence. as well as enjoying prime position
on diani beach among tropical gardens overlooking the indian ocean, the
resort has extensively upgraded accommodation and facilities making it
the preferred destination for holidaymakers and business travellers alike.
accommodation comprises standard and superior rooms as well as 20
suites, cottages and luxurious private villas. all rooms a full range of
quality amenities including Wi-fi connectivity and flat screen tVs. in
July 2013, the resort is opening a new villa complex – the residences.
comprising two- and three-bedroomed villas, each with a private pool,
leopard beach resort & spa re-opened on december 12th, 2012
this modern development will also offer an asian
fusion fine-dining venue with adjoining bar and
will no doubt set new yardsticks for kenya’s coast
tourism.
to stay ahead of the competition, leopard beach
has recently embarked on a major renovation
programme. the popular horizon restaurant
and adjoining kalani coffee lounge have being
refurbished and extended and now boast large,
sweeping terraces offering panoramic ocean
views. even the award-winning chui grill has
being improved: the popular chaîne des rôtisseurs
restaurant has being extended to offer guests
a cool, air-conditioned and smoke-free dining
section. and there’s a new addition to the chui
family, Wines & Whiskers -a classical wine bar with
an impressive stock of southern hemisphere wines.
With five restaurants, stunning bars, a large free-
form pool, the Uzuri spa and a new villa complex,
this is a truly magnificent and cosmopolitan resort.
and the chui team – under the able leadership
of the coast’s most experienced hotelier, chris
modigell – is looking forward to showing off its
new spots!
tribe’s signature restaurant recently launched a
brand new menu carefully designed by executive
chef luca molteni and his team. inspired by
the open flame grill, the menu is a tribute to
local farmers; paying homage to crisp flavors
and fresh, organic ingredients. the Jiko team
has also reinvented tribe’s famous sunday
brunch; the perfectly constructed menu features
an extended dessert buffet, unlimited breezy
cocktails, amongst an array of other feasts for
the entire family. Jiko authentically holds true to
the glamour of the hotel while offering guests
the delights of whimsy and fantasy through a
playful approach to presentation.
Jiko at tribe hotel
Asante News
3 2 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
destination
haj’s mother sits on the concrete ledge outside her home, one
hand holding a hand-made straw broom, the other hanging
over her knee. little haj sits beside her; he looks up, she
smiles and pats his head before rising again. she continues
to sweep the orange dust from the concrete pavement, bending over
because the broom handle is short. she holds her left hand on her lower
back and sweeps with her right.
NyAmirAmboIt is a rare and enduring gift, when a neighbourhood welcomes you and makes you, the stranger, feel at home, says Helene Thomas.
Phot
os ©
Aria
dne
Zand
berg
en
Street scene in Nyamirambo and the big Mosque in the background is a landmark.
she sweeps the concrete of our compound every
morning. there are five houses in the compound,
including mine. haj and his slightly older sister run
– zigzagging around the wet washing hanging from
the lines. then his sister brings out a potty and haj
sits on it, glancing over at me, washing my clothes
in my blue bucket. his sister, who is seven, washes
him and empties the potty in our communal toilet.
after i hang my last load of washing i go and sit on
the street just outside the compound. haj follows, his
feet sliding in his sister’s sneakers, one hand holding
up his over-sized shorts imprinted with flowers,
love-hearts and bees. We sit together gazing out
onto the street.
opposite us a group of men sit on wooden stools
playing igisoro, a traditional rwandan board game.
next door, a woman and her children sit over a small
coal stove cooking chapati and sambusa to sell.
Spellbound by a Charismatic
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 3 3
Phot
o ©
Hele
ne T
hom
as
Dear little Haj, who makes me smile, and his slightly older sister.
a teenage boy walks by with a bucket of boiled eggs
and offers them for 100 francs. a couple of children
run after a wayward bicycle wheel with a stick and a
small boy walks behind his mother pulling a toy car
made from a used juice carton and blue plastic lids
fastened on for the wheels. nearby an elderly man
sits on a stool, shaded by an umbrella, fixing shoes.
the customers are plentiful.
there’s a constant murmur of conversation here.
People are always stopping to greet and chat with
one another. it is a custom i have come to admire
and respect. it makes the pace of life slow and yet
still so purposeful.
i often find myself wandering nyamirambo’s rambling
back-streets, intrigued by the aesthetically pleasing
cobblestone roads that lead to orange-dusty narrow
paths connecting thousands of homes, some made
from mud, others concrete or brick. ornate iron gates
front the larger homes and the quaint homes are
surrounded by golden bamboo fences. clothes are
hung on washing lines that criss-cross between iron
roofs, the gentle breeze making them dance to their
own rhythm. then i hear the captivating and lively
laughter of young children who play clapping games
out on the streets, giggling even more as i pass by.
if new york is the city that never sleeps, you could
say nyamirambo is the neighbourhood that almost
never sleeps. this inner-city suburb of rwanda has a
personality of charisma and charm that, for me, had
me under its spell from the moment we first met.
nyamirambo is a thriving, colourful and vibrant
inner-city suburb, just minutes from kigali’s central
business district. there’s an eclectic mix of shops,
businesses, homes and people. it is one of the only
3 4 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
neighbourhoods in kigali where you are likely to meet - all in
the same street - lawyers, business people, hip-hop artists,
imams, street kids and elegant men and women dressed in
designer clothing or traditional african cloth.
as i leave my compound to venture out into the night-air, i
pass a group of muslim elders who sit each night gathered
around a small coal burning stove, drinking coffee. tucked-
away tea-houses come alive at night, creating an atmosphere
of celebration and ritual. i breath in the delectable air that is
filled with the distinct smell of chapati. freshly popped salted
corn tempts my appetite as i walk by the quaint pop-corn
machines that make me wonder if i have accidentally wandered
into a circus tent.
i contemplate whether i will eat at my favourite malian
restaurant where i am guaranteed the cuisine that epitomizes
the staple diet of locals, which is umuceri (rice), frite (hot potato
chips), ibishyimbo (red kidney beans), igitoki (vegetable banana)
and isombe (cassava greens). there are plenty of restaurants
in the main two commercial strips of nyambirambo and most
serve this simple but nourishing cuisine. i have come to know
the owner of the malian restaurant and as i walk in through
the sheer white curtain he greets me with a lovely wide smile,
“assalam o alaikum” and i reply, “Walaikum salam”.
Area: 26,338 square kilometres.Capital city: KigaliLanguages: English, French, Kinyarwanda (Kiswahili is widely spoken).Official currency: Rwanda Franc (RFr).Time zone: Rwanda is one hour ahead of GMT.Climate: Rwanda enjoys a temperate tropical highland climate typified by warm temperatures that vary with regions and average altitude that ranges from 1,500-2,500 metres on average. There are two annual rainy seasons: from February to June and from September to December. Hotels and restaurants: Hotels and restaurants are abundant in Rwanda. However it is advisable to book hotel reservations in advance. Credit cards are usually only accepted at the major hotels in Kigali.ATMs: One can withdraw a limited amount of money per day using ATM card. However, the ATMs do not accept international cards. Payments in Rwanda are made mainly in cash.Calling code: The international calling code for Rwanda is +250.Transport: Rwanda International Airport in Kigali provides both domestic and international flights. Also available in all major centres are local and luxury bus services as well as Air Charter services offered anywhere in the country. Driving is on the right hand side. An international Driving License is mandatory.Communications: Rwanda has a superb cell phone network that covers nearly the entire country thereby easing both local and international phone calls. Also accessible are several internet cafés and computer centres.Entry requirements: Passport is required by all. Check with your nearest embassy for current visa requirements. Entry tourist visa is issued at the exit point of Kigali Airport to all citizens with a valid passport of more than six months from the expiring date.Health: There is no compulsory vaccination for travelling to Rwanda. Prior to travelling to Rwanda, it is advisable to update vaccinations like cholera, tetanus, hepatitis A and meningitis.Travel guide: Bradt Guide to Rwanda.
FACT FILE: RWANDA
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 3 5
A special neighbourhood
is one where not only the
people but the place itself
embraces you.
the hilly area above nyamirambo is the
food basket of kigali. banana plantations,
pineapple plants, mango trees and all
kinds of vegetables grow in abundance.
and so, on just about every corner in this
neighbourhood, there are women who carry
traditional african baskets selling fresh
produce. the colours so exuberant that you
feel your taste buds dancing on your tongue.
on the days when i take the time to cook,
i venture out to buy the ingredients for my
favourite home-cooked meal. at one stop
i contemplate whether i should buy the
black or green avocado. both of them look
equally delicious so i take both, and then
the shop owner packs me a kilogramme
of potatoes into a brown paper bag. the
next stop is a local home that sells cooked
kidney beans. on a little rickety table
they also sell small tomatoes, red onion,
garlic, ginger and peppers. i gather all
the produce together and venture back
home ready to cook up a feast on my own
coal-stove.
my small house has no kitchen or bathroom,
just my three plastic buckets, a table and
chair, a cupboard and a bed. it’s become
a home where i feel connected to my
neighbours and those in my street. i am
grateful to muzee – who sits under his
umbrella the whole day – for mending my
leather sandals so i could continue my
ramblings of nyamirambo; to bosco the
bucket fixer who mended my broken red
bucket (his job of fixing buckets, casserole
pots, umbrellas and radios is a virtuous one
given that much of the world has become
a ‘throw-away’ society); to the shopkeepers
who sell me a baguette each morning which
comes complimentary with a gracious
greeting; to mama haj who keeps our
compound free from dust and litter; and to
dear little haj who makes me smile from
ear to ear as he pitter-patters across the
concrete path in his slippers to come and share tea and
bread every morning.
When places like nyamirambo speak to your heart, they
stay with you wherever you go. there is a sense of longing
when you are apart. and quite often it is the very ordinary
aspects of the place that you long for the most. a special
neighbourhood is one where not only the people but the
place itself embraces you. in these modern times, where
sometimes online communication supersedes direct
human-to-human contact, it is a rare and enduring gift,
when a neighbourhood welcomes you and makes you, the
stranger, feel at home. •
Opposite: Pleasing cobble-stone roads lead to orange-dusty narrow paths connecting thousands of homes.
Right: On the days when i take time to cook, I venture out to buy the ingredients for my favourite home-cooked meal.
Air Uganda flies daily to Kigali,
Rwanda.
Phot
o ©
Hele
ne T
hom
as
3 6 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
DestinationPh
otos
© P
eter
Hol
thus
en
Peter Holthusen visits Kivukoni Fish Market, and offers sound advice for visitors to Dar es Salaam.
FISH MARKET Tanzania’s Most Thrilling Auction
As the sun continues to rise over the bay, heating things up for the day, the Dar es Salaam fish market continues to flare.
Dar es Salaam
3 8 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
it is dusk as ‘home boys’ slips out of the harbour.
she steams along the curve of oyster bay, but
it is not long before skipper tulani mjema has
spotted a shoal of red snapper. he is less than
a couple of miles offshore and the lights of dar es
salaam’s sheltered harbour are still clearly visible.
the ring net is shot and the shoal captured. carefully
he brings the net into the boat where he and his crew
brail the fish into tanks of iced water, which rapidly
cools their temperature and ensures that they stay
in the best possible condition.
later they will be packed into boxes with ice before
being landed. the whole process has taken only a
few hours. the catch has been good enough to meet
the demands of tulani’s valued customers, and he
is back in dar just after midnight.
as soon as the sun makes its appearance over the
harbour, dar es salaam’s fish market instantly gets
into top gear. People pour through the gates of the
market, ready to throw down their money at one
of the many fish auction tables that abound there.
by 7.00 am, the bustling market is blanketed with
the organized chaos for which the city is renowned.
groups huddle around colourful fish auction tables,
depending on the size and type of fish they intend
to bid on.
fishing has always been important to the people of
dar. the city was originally a fishing village so the
kivukoni fish market forms an integral part of their
daily lives. many of dar’s leading chefs, hoteliers
and restaurateurs can often be seen returning to
their kitchens with the catch of the day.
With a population of almost four million, east
africa’s second-largest port, dar es salaam
(formerly mzizima), is the largest and richest city in
tanzania. it is also a regionally important economic
centre. yet under its veneer of urban bustle, the
city remains a down-to-earth, manageable place,
with a picturesque seaport, a fascinating mixture
of african, arabic and indian influences with
extremely close ties to its swahili roots.
located in a massive natural harbour on the indian
ocean, dar es salaam (which means ‘haven of
Peace’) is the hub of the tanzanian transportation
system as all of the country’s main railways and
several highways originate in or near the city. its
status as an administrative and trade centre has
Above: Even for those who haven’t fostered an appreciation for seafood, Dar es Salaam’s vibrantfish market, near Kivukoni Front is definitely a place that should be experienced whentravelling to Tanzania.
Opposite: Many of Dar’s leading chefs, hoteliers and restaurateurs can often be seen returning to their kitchens with the catch of the day.
Air Uganda flies daily to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 3 9
put dar in position to benefit disproportionately from
tanzania’s high growth rate since the year 2000, so
that by now its poverty rates are much lower than
the rest of the country.
While there aren’t many ‘sights’ in dar as such, there
are numerous craft markets, shops and restaurants
to keep most visitors happy. the streets, too, are full
of colour and activity, as men weave through traffic
on large chinese-made bicycles, while women clad
in brightly hued kangas (printed cotton garments
worn by many women throughout east africa) stand
in the shade of government office blocks balancing
trays of bananas and mangoes on their heads.
along the waterfront, colonial-era buildings with
their red-tiled roofs jostle for space with sleek,
modern high-rises, leading to the vibrant fish
market, near kivukoni front. even for those who
haven’t fostered an appreciation for seafood, the
dar es salaam fish market is definitely a place that
should be experienced when travelling to tanzania.
built by the Japanese government as part of an
aid programme, it is composed of five open-air
buildings. one hosts the kitchens where food is
prepared for the workers or the more adventurous
tourists who visit the place. another building is
used to clean the fish bought off the stands of the
adjacent third structure, where the day’s catch is
displayed. a fourth building is used for auctioning
the fish, while on the other side of the street
there is a fifth building where vats of fish are fried
throughout the day in boiling oil. it provides an
excellent opportunity to try the local food in a safe
and friendly environment.
Very often referred to as a ‘kitchen for four million
people’, dar es salaam’s fish market is one of
the largest wholesale fish and seafood markets
in africa, and plays a vital role in the distribution
of perishable food to its citizens. this is fresh fish
and seafood in the broadest sense – the diversity
4 0 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
and abundance staggering (more than 400 types) – from sea
urchins to grouper, and from tiny sardines to huge marlin and
shark. of them all, tuna is king.
the market complex is huge and sprawling, like a small
city, with everything including tearooms and mosques. it’s a
timeless place, with an ancient culture continuing in modern
life. there are two sections: the ‘inner market’ is the licensed
wholesale market where the auctions and most of the fish
processing take place and where licensed wholesale dealers
(approx 900) operate small stalls; and the ‘outer market’,
which is an eclectic mix of wholesale and retail shops, many
on narrow lanes, selling kitchen tools, restaurant supplies,
groceries, vegetables and a plethora of vendors selling unique
handicrafts made from the bi-products of their catch.
dar es salaam’s natural, nearly landlocked harbour is the
outlet for most of mainland tanzania’s agricultural and
mineral exports and is also a transit port for the congo river,
whose navigable tributary, the lualaba, can be reached by
rail. the tanzania Zambia railway authority (taZara)
station connects dar es salaam to the neighbouring country
of Zambia and beyond, while the central line railway runs
west from dar to kigoma on lake tanganyika via dodoma.
any visitor to tanzania who is interested in fish, seafood,
cooking, or simply dining at one of the country’s vibrant street
food stalls, should make an effort to visit the kivukoni fish
market. it’s a dar institution and is possibly under threat
– there has been talk of expanding it because the ageing
infrastructure cannot really handle the volume of traffic, and
certainly not the number of tourists who flock there.
an increasing number of travellers bypass dar es salaam
completely, by taking advantage of one of the many
international flights into kilimanjaro international airport
(between arusha and moshi) for the more popular safari
destinations. yet the city merits a visit in its own right as
tanzania’s political and economic hub. it’s also an agreeable
place to break your travels elsewhere in the country, with
an array of top-end hotels, inexpensive restaurants, a lively
music scene, night clubs, bars, and well-stocked shops, and
of course, Zanzibar is only a short ferry or plane ride away. •
FURTHER INFORMATION
Tanzania Tourist Boardwww.tanzaniatouristboard.com
HOW TO GET THERE: Daily flights from Entebbe. The Kivukoni fish
market is located in central Dar es Salaam, at the junction of Ocean Road
and Kivukoni Front, adjacent to the Kigamboni Ferry pier. It’s not far to
walk there from downtown or take a taxi. Should you decide to drive a
car, there is secure parking right across the street, in the grounds of the
‘Seashell’ and fresh fruit market.
INSIDER TIP: There is an office located on the second storey of the main
market building. Head up the stairs to enjoy a stunning view of the entire
market, fish auctions, Kigamboni, the uninhabited offshore islands of
Bongoyo, Mbudya, Pangavani and Fungu Yasini, and the vast expanse of
the distant Indian Ocean.
LAND AREA: The city has a total surface area of 1,590 square kilometres.
POPULATION: 3.5 million
LANGUAGES: Swahili is the official language, although English is widely spoken.
TIME: GMT+3
CURRENCY: The official currency of Tanzania is the Tanzania Shilling;
however visitors are advised to carry US Dollars.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: Passports for all visitors must be valid for at
least 6 months. Visas for up to 90 days can be obtained in advance or
issued on arrival.
WHEN TO GO: Tanzania has a tropical climate and can be visited during
all seasons. The weather is coolest and driest from late June to September,
while October and November can be very pleasant. From late December
until February, temperatures can be extremely high, but not oppressive.
During the rainy season (March to May), you can save substantially on
accommodation costs.
WHAT TO READ: Journey Through Tanzania by the late Mohamed
Amin, Duncan Willets and Peter Marshall, is one of the growing range of
publications from Camerapix Publishers International.
NOT TO BE MISSED: Immersing yourself in the local lifestyle – everything
from enjoying the weekend scene at Coco Beach, shopping for crafts at
Msasani Slipway or Mwenge Carvers’ Market, to attending a church
service at St Joseph’s Cathedral.
LOCAL FOOD: Ugali, the Tanzanian national dish made from maize or
cassava flour, or both, with mouth-watering sauces. Mishikaki, marinated,
grilled meat kebabs, or the array of freshly caught local seafood from the
Indian Ocean.
Dar es Salaam
City Map
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 4 1
4 2 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
AFriCA: Eye to Eye with the Unknown by Jeal, Tim
back in print, this popular illustrated cookbook has
over 130 recipes from the countries of north, east,
West and southern africa. each recipe has a colour
photograph, an ingredients list, clear instructions and
states the country of origin.
With a foreword by david attenborough. lavish companion to the
BBC One series reveals the undiscovered side of africa’s five unique
regions. inspiring photography captures unprecedented wildlife
behaviour, mesmerising new creatures and magical landscapes that
will astound and captivate, and will challenge what you think you
know about africa. this is a spectacular journey through a vast and
diverse continent in all its beautiful and unexpected abundance.
Witness the drama of eagles catching giant bats on the wing, lizards
stalking their prey on the backs of lions and a nail-biting giraffe fight.
share the discovery of the world’s rarest fish species and the first-
ever access to an island sanctuary for the elusive african penguin.
The best of African Cooking
over 130 Authentic African recipes
by banda, manjase
Index: 140pp. Paperback, GBP12.99 ISBN 13: 9780954682101 ISBN 10: 0954682106
336pp, Hardback GBP25.00 ISBN 13: 9781780879147 ISBN 10: 1780879148
bookshelf
the story of syoum gebregziabher, who has had an
ambitious drive to succeed in education and public service.
he has worked tirelessly to improve conditions in his native
ethiopia, where he helped write the curriculum for the Public
administration degree at the country’s first university. Under
the derg military regime, he helped form the kebeles and
kebele associations. syoum also describes vividly his diverse
experiences as an international public servant in tanzania,
Zimbabwe, bhutan and eritrea.
Symphony of my Lifethe challenging
times and my Variant
experiences from
ethiopia, bhutan,
tanzania, and the
United states
by Gebregziabher, Syoum
Index: 340pp, Paperback, GBP24.99ISBN: 978-1569023570
Untitled-1 1 4/18/13 11:26 AM
By Tina Parbhakar.Above left: Ms. Aeeshah Nanyonjo is chosen at the Teacher of the Year and awarded a return flight by Marketing Executive, Ms. Jackie Tumuhairwe, at the 2012 Madrasa Day.
Above: Ms. Nanyonjo arrives in Mombasa.
Opposite: Children of Nakasozi Infant Madrasat Buddo create art..
When you support children to reach for the sky, you will end up in the skies yourself!
A Teacher’s StorySoaring to New Heights
speech-makers as they commend and
celebrate the primary students who
have become high achievers subsequent
to their graduation from a Madrasa
Early Childhood Programme supported
preschool. Other Early Childhood
Development (ECD) teachers are seated
at her sides and School Management
Committee members as well as national
stakeholders in the ECD sector are in
attendance for the festivities.
Suddenly, she shrieks and shakes
uncontrollably. Other teachers quickly
come to her side. Then, they all start
jumping up and down joyfully. What has
happened?
The shy 19-year-old girl who started
taking care of children at a nursery in
her parents’ village had now proven
She paces around the tops
of small heads in a tidy, yet
basic, classroom building
located almost 10 kilometres
from Kampala, filled to capacity with
both colourful materials and children.
In the cool and sun-lit setting, the other
teachers attend to groups based roughly
on age, named ‘Baby,’ ‘Middle’ and
‘Top’ class. As the Head Teacher, she
occasionally says, “Friends don’t hurt
friends”, “Don’t papa [hurry in Luganda] –
slowly, slowly, slowly”, or another easily
understood phrase as she monitors
progress and looks after her flock, before
heading home to two little ones of her
own.
Sitting quietly on a tented Kampala
lawn at the annual Madrasa Day in
October 2012, she listens to the various
Phot
os ©
Tin
a Pa
rbha
kar
inspiration
herself as a capable, confident guide
to both children and their parents, as
well as an energetic leader among her
colleagues. Ms. Aeeshah Nanyonjo
has been chosen as the Teacher of the
Year, and, on top of that, is awarded a
return flight to Mombasa, compliments
of Air Uganda.
It is a dream come true for Aeeshah
and the other teachers, even though
flying is not something most dare to
dream about in their lives. Aeeshah
begins to plan her trip right away and
Madrasa Resource Center Uganda staff
are not far behind. She will go to Madrasa
Resource Center Kenya, the birthplace
of the programme through which she
received intensive training for two-years.
Indeed, Ms. Nanyonjo makes a positive
difference in the physical, mental, social,
cultural and spiritual development of
children in her community through her
knowledge of what is known about Early
Childhood Development internationally
and her ability to incorporate that into
methods and tools that are culturally-
relevant, low-cost and locally available.
As an excelling Ugandan teacher,
then, in November 2012, Aeeshah
climbs the steps of a plane and sits
down, holding on tight and visibly
nervous. Once in the air, she relaxes
and remarks on how incredibly smooth
the lift off was, as opposed to all the
stories she was told. The week’s trip
combines bringing back lessons and
tips from preschool teachers and ECD
practitioners in Kenya with time to tour
the historical port city and get some
much needed rest.
When she returns, Aeeshah remarks,
“I want to thank Air Uganda and the
Madrasa Programme very much for giving
me this opportunity. I met many helpful
people with good ideas on my trip. I look
forward to some of my recommendations
being taken up by teachers in Uganda in
the next few months and years.” Ms.
Nanyonjo’s success is a testament to the
idea that when you support children to
reach for the sky, you will end up in the
skies yourself! We wish her more travels
to come and applaud Air Uganda for its
support of excellence among Ugandan
teachers. •
4 6 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
P is for PastorFlash fiction by Monique Eleanor.
The first word Bebe Mankaa spoke was ‘Amen’.
The Chefor family; Pa in his tracksuit trousers and
‘I love New York’ T-shirt his brother had brought
for him over the Christmas break, Ma Sue in what
should have been a cute night-shirt ruined by one too many
washings and being tied up in her ancient loin-clothe, and
the older kids Francis, Elton and Emmanuella in assorted
clothes, which had at sometime been ‘outing wear’ but were
now too old to be worn anywhere but inside the house. Even
Mirabel the house-help and Mr. Paul the gateman had
joined the family in the parlour where evening devotion was
held as the bulb flickered from low voltage.
Pa thought of himself as an Equal Man, he often said it “I
am an Equal Man”, he would say in his soprano voice before
he went on to prove this equality by doing something that
marked equity like commanding his help to join his family
during evening and morning devotions. Thus it was that
after each and every one had prayed in their turn and Papa
had said the ‘The Grace’ and after the umpteenth “Amen”
of the night the youngest Chefor at barely 10 months said
“Amen” in a squeal as opposed to the solemn murmurings
of the rest, but none the less clearly.
Ma Sue’s eyes flew open and down to the centre of the
carpet where she had placed her last child to be part of the
prayers. She shouted with joy and twirled Mankaa round
Great ReadShort Story
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 4 7
and round while Pa just kept smiling and repeating to everyone
else present.
“Did you hear my daughter, did you hear that? Amen, her first
word, that’s the Holy Ghost speaking through her, The Holy
Ghost is with us!”
He had conveniently forgotten that just before the prayers
Mankaa had been crying at the top of her lungs. At that time
he had declared her “her mother’s daughter” and the tears and
wails were, “The devil using her to distract us from worship, the
devil I tell you!”
Years later, at age five Bebe Mankaa was still being called
‘Blessed Bebe’ to the pleasure of her parents and annoyance
of the other attention-needy children of the kindergarten class
of Full Gospel Nursery and Primary School. Her ‘blessedness’
further confirmed when during the class-work in which they
were all to write words for each letter of the alphabet; Bebe’s ‘A’
stood for annointed, her ‘C’ for Christian, Her ‘H’ for Holy-Ghost
and ‘P’ for pastor.
Something went wrong though. Something went horribly wrong
in the long holiday between Bebe’s form one and two. Pa had
been unseated during an accident on an okada which he was on
simply because his car was being used to drop off children who
had attended Bebe’s 12th birthday celebration, and Pa had an
urgent document to drop off for the upcoming crusade to be
held by the church. It was at this time that the family finally
had to chew the words they had always served to other church
members when consoling them; “God knows what’s best, take
heart, and don’t give up the faith”.
The words tasted like cod-liver oil; slick yet difficult to swallow.
But adversity added another fatal punch to Pa Chefor and his
family when the doctor needing to make sure he had his patients
blood type on standby had to check the children for a suitable
match. Before all the results had even been released, Ma Sue
twitching and sobbing had confessed that none of the children
were Pa’s as he had been unable to sire a child, and after a
couple years of ‘barrenness’ with everyone looking at her either
with contempt or pity, they had joined the Full Gospel Church
because her husband had been promised an end to his wife’s
‘barrenness’ by the power of God. It would happen however, that
the power of God was to be experienced only during all night
‘spirituals’ between the Pastor and Ma Sue. So she conceived
P is for Pastor and they continued, to give Pa the big family he had always
longed for, and to shut the mouths of those who had said for
so long that she was not a woman. Unfortunately in the end
the family really wasn’t Pa’s and when the operation finally
went through with the doctor being a able to get blood in
from a neighboring Limbe Hospital, even an Equal Man like
Pa, could not overlook such a slight.
So when October rolled back around and Bebe and her siblings
were to return to school, they were no longer students of
the prestigious Blessed Mount Carmel Boarding School,
but rather the much gossiped about pupils of Government
Bilingual School Muea. Ma Sue had been packed out of her
matrimonial home and the dear Pastor refused all allegations
claiming it was an affront on his dignity to do blood tests to
prove his innocence. And every time Bebe passed her former
schoolmates in her now grey and white school uniform, she
would hear them squeal, •
“P is for Pastor!”
Driver Training for harsh environments
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4 8 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
Health
Mother Nature to the Rescue!by Gilly Pickup.
Natural Health Solutions Mother Nature to the Rescue!by Gilly Pickup.
Natural Health Solutions
Easing a Sore Back
Oh that sore back is driving you mad! Black pepper
to the rescue. In Ayurvedic medicine black pepper
is mixed into a paste, which warms up the skin
and helps banish aches. Grind it up with a pestle
and mortar, mix with almond oil or similar oil and
get someone to spread it on the painful area. You
should feel better in half an hour or so because
black pepper is a warming spice and contains
piperine which helps stimulate the circulatory
system, ease stiffness, pain and shifts congestion
around muscles and joints. It is also rich in essential
oil, which promotes sweating.
Relieving a Headache
Drinking more water can help relieve headaches because
sometimes they occur due to dehydration. Massage
relieves tension headaches by helping improve blood
circulation, or use essential oil of rosemary to make a
cold compress. Add six drops to a bowl of water, soak
a flannel in it then wring it out. Lie down and apply
the cold compress to your forehead, pulling the flannel
taut on either side for 10 seconds so it creates slight
pressure. Apply to your forehead several times. The
herb often helps to reduce the severity of a headache.
It works by limiting the secretion of compounds that
cause inflammation.Ph
otos
© N
atio
nalg
eogr
aphi
c
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 4 9
closed eye. Leave on your eyes
for 10 minutes. The apple slice
will be cooling on the eye and the
presence of tannin, with its anti-
inflammatory properties, helps
reduce puffiness. Alternatively,
dip two metal spoons in cold
water, freeze for a few minutes
and apply to your eyes. The
spoon shape fits perfectly into
the area around your eyes and
swelling will go down because
the cold reduces inflammation
and swelling.
Getting to Sleep
When you feel tired but can’t
sleep, sip a hot sweetened milky
drink. It will help you drop off
because the sugars enable brain
cells to absorb more tryptophan,
provided by the milk protein,
from the bloodstream. This
converts into the feel-good brain
chemical serotonin, which calms
and slows us down. Several
aromatherapy oils are renowned
for their relaxing properties.
Before going to bed add a few
drops of lavender oil to a warm
bath. Sprinkle a few drops on your
pillow too. For sleeplessness
caused by depression, rose is
often effective, while camomile
encourages peaceful sleep.
Painful Eczema
There’s no doubt eczema can be painful but you can
help alleviate the itch by treating the skin with oats
mixed into a paste with water. The silica in oats is
a healing mineral that helps soothe inflamed skin.
Lemon is also useful for treating itchy skin. Its
aromatic substances contain anaesthetic and anti-
inflammatory properties, which may help reduce
itching. (If nothing else, you’ll smell divine.) Squeeze
undiluted lemon juice on itchy skin and allow to dry.
Chinese folk medicine values mint as a treatment for
itching skin because it contains menthol, which has
anti-inflammatory properties when applied topically.
For sleeplessness
caused by depression, rose is often
effective, while camomile
encourages peaceful sleep.
Game for Toothache
Cloves are the name of the game for toothache.
Put a drop of oil of cloves on a cotton wool bud and
dab on the offending tooth. Clove oil has bacteria-
slaying properties as well as a numbing effect. In
the 1800s, when toothpaste was scant and dentists
employed tools of torture, every doctor carried a
supply of clove oil. Today we know that this extract
from the clove bud contains eugenol, which acts as
a local anaesthetic. A warm, wet tea bag is another
folk remedy that’s worth trying. Black tea contains
astringent tannins, which may reduce swelling,
providing temporary relief. (Then get yourself down
to the dentist, pronto ....)
Tired Puffy eyes
For tired or puffy eyes use apple slices as refreshing
eye pads and to help reduce nasty dark circles. Keep
an apple in the fridge and then cut two slices, lie
down, close your eyes and place a slice over each
5 0 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
an effective natural cure against spots
and pimples. The enzyme-rich gel has
soothing anti-inflammatory and anti-
bacterial properties. If taken internally it
helps detox the digestive tract, which in
turn can help clear up skin.
are chopped, crushed or chewed. This
popular herb may improve immunity by
stimulating some of the body’s natural
immune cells. Allicin can also help
reduce inflammation.
Hangover from Hell
Drinking lots of water before you crash
into bed can help the hangover from Hell.
If however, next morning you still wake
up feeling ill, raise your blood-sugar level
to help stop the nerve-jangling dizziness
and shaking. If you can face a hearty
breakfast, it will help make you feel
human again, but if you cannot bear the
idea, a raw egg yolk has the same effect.
Eggs contain amino acids that the liver
needs. Tummy too fragile for a raw egg
yolk? Try freshly squeezed fruit juice.
Bananas are also good: they contain
potassium, a guaranteed revitaliser
necessary for maintaining the body’s
normal fluid balance. •
Fight Off that Flu
For colds or flu, a teaspoon of grated
horseradish in boiling water makes a
bracing drink. This powerful natural
antibiotic aids the respiratory system.
Horseradish clears sinuses and
promotes expulsion of mucus from upper
respiratory passages. Something else
worth trying is an infusion of liquorice
root. Liquorice is said to strengthen
the immune system while echinacea,
sometimes referred to as the ‘immune
herb’, stimulates the body to fight
off infections. Garlic can help prevent
colds and reduce symptoms because it
contains allicin, a purified component
of garlic considered to be the major
biologically active agent produced by the
plant and released when cloves of garlic
Soothing a Sore Throat
Sore throats can be soothed by putting
two teaspoons of sage leaves in a cup,
add boiling water, leave for 10 minutes,
strain when cool and then use as a gargle.
Ginger helps too; it is rich in manganese
which helps build resistance to infection
and disease and contains immune-
boosting zinc and anti-stress B vitamins.
You can make a simple, soothing drink
by combining lemon or lime juice with
manuka honey and ginger, which will
help the body clear out toxins from this
infection. Flaxseed oil, rich in essential
fatty acids (EFAs), will also support a
body that is fighting off and recovering
from an infection.
Getting Rid of Spots
Spots the size of the Himalayas have
a habit of popping up when least
expected. Did you know that if you put
a drop of water on the spot, then rub a
soluble aspirin into it for a few seconds
it will disappear? This is because the
salicyclic acid in aspirin, which comes
from willow bark, helps fight the nasty
guys that trigger inflammation. The
watery gel from Aloe Vera plant is also
5 2 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
Culture
There are iconic images we all associate with certain places: the Great Wall with China, the Eiffel Tower with France, but when you think of Africa, beads are probably not the foremost image. Perhaps they should be, says James Michael Dorsey.
Besides their role as physical adornment, beads are among the oldest known symbols used by mankind. Some of them share time and space with the earliest known cave paintings, and symbols are a physical manifestation of an advanced thought process that separates Homo
sapiens from lower creatures. As such, beads have religious, social, and decorative properties. In Africa, more than any other region, they have long played a prominent role.
Many people believe that Phoenician mariners brought the first beads to Africa but there is no physical evidence to support this theory. What we do know is that in 2004 in a cave in South Africa near Cape Town, archeologists uncovered drilled ostrich egg beads that date back a minimum of 45,000 years and as much as 280,000 years, depending on who the examiner is. Sudan, Kenya, and Libya have all yielded similar beads that have been dated to at least 12,000 years ago. Various tribes of the Turkana people who ranged from northern Africa down to modern day Kenya used beads as currency and they were commonly paid as marriage dowries and used for the purchase of cattle.
Cowry shells can be found throughout Africa and are probably the most used decorative symbol on the continent. They saturated the land tens of thousands of years ago when much of today’s Africa was under water. They have long been used as a symbol of fertility, especially as ceremonial beads. In drier areas that lack cowries, eggshells have served the same purpose.
Almost all beads were made from indigenous, organic materials until around the fourth century AD when glass beads made their way into the continent from Portugal, and there is archeological evidence recovered from tombs in the Valley of the Kings in Egypt that about this same time glass beads were in widespread use as personal decorations for noble families. For the next seven centuries,
Beads of Time
beads were the driving force of the African economy.
By the mid-12th century Ghana, Ethiopia, and Nigeria, were producing glass beads and continue to do so even today.
Phot
os ©
Jam
es M
icha
el D
orse
y
Girl in decorative beads.
Chevron beads.
a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 5 3
When foreign seafarers and explorers began to infiltrate Africa around the 14th century they brought glass chevron beads with them to trade for safe passage. These are produced by a rigorous process whose end result is several layers of alternating colours. Chevron beads were soon joined by millefiori beads from Italy, another type of multicoloured beads that hold intricate patterns in their design. Both of these styles proved to be very popular as currency for another four centuries. Venice, Italy, was producing most of the glass beads for African trade by the 1700s and these came to be popularly called ‘slave beads’ as they were the primary currency used for the buying and selling of people at the time. Unfortunately that term was in common usage until the 1920s before socially conscious people began to realise just how offensive the word was and it was replaced with the term, ‘trade beads.’
As the craft of bead making progressed, smaller and smaller beads were produced, making it possible to employ them in the widespread decoration of clothing.
Whatever their vast and varied origins, beads remain a staple of African culture today. Numerous tribes have not only become masters of bead production and their use as decoration but have garnered worldwide reputations as artists of this milieu.
Ghana was, and still is, the largest producer of beads in Africa and the Ashanti and Krobo people make them
from ground, powdered glass that is uniquely identifiable. The Fulani, hereditary nomads who range throughout a third of the continent, favour brightly coloured glass beads. In Malawi they create vibrant glass beads that favour floral patterns while in Mozambique, indigenous gemstones are a popular medium. Zaire is known for stone beads while Uganda is leading the way by making beads from re-cycled paper. In Ethiopia, men and women of the Hamer tribe both wear headbands, armbands, necklaces and chokers of beads, and in the Great Rift Valley, the Iraqi people work beaded designs onto their clothing that is in great demand by collectors. In my travels I have also uncovered beads made from cork and fish bones, horn, ivory, metal, pottery and wood.
A number of tribal cultures have raised beadwork to its highest levels, employing it not only for rites and ceremonies, but incorporating beadwork into the utensils of everyday life, turning the most mundane objects into living works of art, and probably the best known of all are the Maasai.
They favour bright, primary colours: red, yellow, blue, and both men and women wear earrings, chokers, necklaces, ankle and wrist cuffs, but are probably best identified with the large round neck collars that adorn the women, and that has become their identifying icon to the world. This writer even has a beaded Maasai watchband. They not only wear these items for special occasions but also as an everyday way of life. Maasai beadwork proclaims their joy of living every waking moment.
The North American plains Indians are also known for their magnificent beadwork that interestingly enough bears many of the same designs and patterns of early African beading. There are many anthropologists who believe this art form travelled over the now lost Aleutian land bridge when Asia and the Americas were connected long ago.
As science continues to allow us to look further and further into the past, we just might discover that this most African of icons is much older than anyone ever expected. •
Maasai cowry beaded choker.
Modern Maasai beadwork.
Basic Tips for the Traveller in Uganda
LandUganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain.
ClimateAlthough situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year.
TopographyIt is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux.
EconomyUganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers.
LanguageEnglish is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo.
Electric supplyAll installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment.
TimeUganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Time remains constant throughout the year.
PeopleThe people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English.
ExcursionsUganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-the-road driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya.
HotelsThere are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels.
Banking hoursThere is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 hours on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200 hours. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 hours on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 hours on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities.
CommunicationsTelephone, telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes.
Medical servicesUganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.
CurrencyUganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates.
Credit cardsInternational credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops.
Working hoursShops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 hours on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400 hours. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 hours and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items.
Public Holidays
20131 January New Year’s Day26 January Liberation Day8 March International Women’s Day29 March Good Friday1 April Easter Monday1 May Labour Day3 June Martyrs’ Day9 June National Heroes’ Day8 August Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan)9 October Independence Day26 October Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice)25 December Christmas Day26 December Boxing Day
Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate.
CustomsBesides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale.
Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies.
Health requirementsVisitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking.
Visa and immigration requirementsVisa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted.
Taxi servicesTaxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance.
Car rentalSeveral firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a driver-translator is recommended).
Entebbe International AirportThe main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar.
SecurityThe same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Be careful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.
1. Make sure you purchase your ticket under the exact name that appears on your passport.
2. Do your own bag checks before you leave home, to avoid getting stopped by security and losing innocent (but sharp) items you forgot were in your bag — hello, nail scissors! — Carefully check each piece of luggage at home first.
3. Smoking is not permitted on nearly all flights and many airports have restrictions, too. Be prepared to go without a smoke for the whole duration of your trip.
4. Before the flight, make sure you know your flight number (and any others if you are connecting with other flights). Write it down and keep it where you can reach it easily. You will need it to find the counter to check in, to find your gate, to board the aircraft, and to claim your luggage.
5. Certain clothing and accessories can set off an alarm on the metal detector and slow you down.
Avoid wearing clothing, jewellery or other accessories that contain metal when travelling through the security checkpoints. Pack all your coats and jackets in your baggage where possible. All unpacked coats and jackets must go through the X-ray machine for inspection.
useful travel tips
9. Because of the altitude, airplanes can be quite cold (especially the floor). Always take a jacket or sweater with you on the plane and take one of the blankets that the airline provides.
10. When booking a family holiday, try to book airline seats in advance to ensure that your whole family sits together.
11. Avoid booking flight segments close together. Major airlines consider a connection as tight as 35 minutes to be a valid connection, but this is often not enough time if there are long lines at security!
12. Have a written or typed copy of all passport numbers with issue and expiry dates, and dates of birth of
children - so that you do not need to remove your passports or other documents when going through Customs etc. You will then have the information at hand to complete the numerous forms without having to show where you keep your documents
13. When you claim your bag at the airport, check it over before you leave the bag claim area. Look for any new damage on the bag and be
sure that it was not opened and something taken. The baggage service desk for the airline is normally at the claim area; this is also true for Customs arrivals. Fill out the misplaced baggage information before leaving Customs.
6. The air in the aircraft is dry. Minimize discomfort by drinking reasonable amounts of water and juices. Limit consumption of alcohol, tea, coffee and caffeinated drinks because they cause you to lose fluids. Wear spectacles instead of contact lenses. Apply a skin moisturizer.
7. If you’ve missed a connection, don’t stand in line to rebook with a gate agent. Instead, use your cell phone to call the airline’s customer-service number (tuck it in your wallet before leaving). You may speak
to someone faster, giving you a better chance at getting a seat on the next flight.
8. If you are flying for a special occasion and plan to carry presents in your hand luggage, don’t forget to check hand luggage restrictions first. Make sure all presents are permitted in cabin
baggage and remember that the liquids in hand luggage rules apply to presents too.
Nairobi Sales Office: 10th Floor, IPS Building, Kimathi Street, Nairobi, Kenya. Tel: + 254 (0) 20 313 933/4 Email: [email protected]
Mombasa Sales Office:1st Floor , TSS Towers, Nkrumah Street, Mombasa Kenya Tel: +254 (0) 412 313 626 +254 (0) 734 605 203 Email: [email protected]
Moi International Airport (MIA) Sales Office Tel: +254 735 877 289 Email: [email protected] 1 Terminal Building, Mombasa, Kenya.
head office: housing finance bank building,second floor, lower kololo terrace tel: + 256 (0) 414 258 262/4 P.o. box 36591 kampala, Uganda email: [email protected] email: [email protected]
kampala call centre: Jubilee insurance centre 1st floor, Podium level, Parliament avenue, kampala Uganda. tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555 (0) 312 165 555 email: [email protected] entebbe international airport (ticketing office): 2nd floor, Passenger terminal building, entebbe , Uganda tel: +256 (0) 414 321485 (0) 417 717 222 email:[email protected]
Please note : after working hours: Weekdays (17:45 hrs - 21:00 hrs), saturday (14:00 hrs - 21:00 hrs) and sunday (07:30 hrs - 21:00 hrs) Please call our entebbe ticketing office on tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222 for assistance.
air Uganda contacts and offices
Dar es Salaam Sales Office: Harbour View Tours J-Mall, Samora Avenue, 1st Floor P.O.BOX 22636 Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Tel: +255 (0) 222 133 322/ +255 (0) 783 111 983 Email: [email protected]
Juba Sales Office: Hai Suk Street (Opp.the Mosque) Juba, Sudan Tel: + 211 (0) 177 800 041 Mob: + 211 (0) 977 153 912 Email: [email protected] or [email protected]
Kigali Sales Office: Office No.26, Union Trade Centre Building, Town Centre Tel: +250 (0) 782 229 572 Email: [email protected]
Bujumbura Sales Office:Av Du 18 Septembre, Galerie La Perie Tel: +257 (0) 22 277 262 +257 (0) 76 179 000 +257 (0) 76183 000Email: [email protected]
word square!
L A
A
N C O WE
B
U
F
F
L
O T R I C H TS
E M U R J N I
ON
N U O O EZ
N F A N G
H
O S P G D X R
I E O I T Y X
L E O P A R D
D
How many animals can you find hidden in this square?
Look for them from left to right, up and down, and diagonally.
Score: 15 Excellent; 12 – 14 Very Good; 9– 11 Good.
Add vowels to the following to complete the sentence (3 words)
Thnkyfrflyngrgnd.
Thank you for flying Air Uganda.Answer
The Fox and the Crow A crow had stolen a large piece of cheese and had flown into a tall tree. A fox who had seen it happen said to himself, with a little cunningness I should be able to get that cheese for my supper. He thought for a moment and then addressed the bird, “Good afternoon Miss Crow,” he began, “You look really beautiful today. I’ve never seen your feathers so radiant. Your neck is as graceful as a swan, and your wings are as mighty as an eagle. As for your voice, everyone knows it is as sweet as a nightingale’s. Won’t you do me a favour and sing me something?”
Pleased with such praise, the gullible crow started to caw. As soon as she opened her mouth the piece of cheese fell out and the fox snapped it up.
Trotting off with the food, the fox made things worse by calling back the crow, “I may have overestimated your voice and your beauty, but I said nothing about your brains.”
The Ant and the Grasshopper
One day in winter an ant dragged out some grains of food that she had gathered during the summer. Seeing the seeds drying in the sun, a grasshopper asked the ant to give him some.
“Why do you come to me to be fed?” asked the ant. ‘What did you do during the summer?’
“Oh,” answered the grasshopper, “during the summer I sang.”
“Well,” said the ant, “since you sang during the summer, during the winter you can dance.”
Buffalo, Cat, Cow, Dog, Eland, Elephant, Fox, Lemur, Leopard, Lion, Mouse, Oryx, Ostrich, Pig, Tiger
aBato corner!Answers
ENTEBBE - NAIROBIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 202 ‘06:00Hrs 07:10Hrs Mon - FriU7 206 14:30Hrs 15:40Hrs Mon - ThuU7 206 14:00Hrs 15:10Hrs FriU7 204 19:30Hrs 20:40Hrs Mon - Thu
U7 204 19:50Hrs 21:00Hrs Fri
U7 204 17:30Hrs 18:40Hrs Sat & SunU7 202 08:30 Hrs 09:40Hrs Sat & Sun
NAIROBI - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 203 07:45 Hrs 08:55Hrs Mon - FriU7 207 16:25Hrs 17:35Hrs Mon - ThuU7 207 17:40Hrs 16:50Hrs FriU7 205 21:10Hrs 22:20Hrs Mon - ThuU7 205 21:30Hrs 22:40Hrs FriU7 205 19:10Hrs 20:20Hrs Sat & SunU7 203 10:10Hrs 11:20Hrs Sat & Sun
ENTEBBE - JUBAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 122 07:10Hrs 08:15Hrs Mon,Wed,FriU7 122 10:00Hrs 11:00Hrs Tue,Thu & SatU7 122 10:00Hrs 11:05Hrs FriU7 120 15:55Hrs 17:00Hrs Mon-FriU7 120 15:55Hrs 16:55Hrs Fri & Sun
JUBA - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 123 09:00Hrs 10:05Hrs Mon,Wed,FriU7 123 11:45Hrs 12:45Hrs Tue,ThuU7 123 11:50Hrs 12:55Hrs FriU7 121 17:45Hrs 18:50Hrs Mon-ThuU7 121 17:40Hrs 18:40Hrs Fri & Sun
ENTEBBE - DAR ES SALAAMFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 320 09:40Hrs 11:30Hrs Mon, Wed, ThuU7 320 09:40Hrs 12:50Hrs TueU7320 14:30Hrs 16:20Hrs FriU7 320 12:05Hrs 13:55Hrs SatU7 320 12:05Hrs 13:55Hrs Sun
DAR ES SALAAM - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 321 12:15Hrs 14:05Hrs Mon,Wed,ThuU7 321 13:35Hrs 15:25Hrs TueU7 321 17:05Hrs 18:55Hrs FriU7 321 12:05Hrs 15:55Hrs SatU7 321 14:40Hrs 16:30Hrs Sun
ENTEBBE - MOMBASAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 320 09:40Hrs 11:20Hrs Tue,FriU7 340 13:30Hrs 15:10Hrs Sun
MOMBASA- ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 321 12:05Hrs 15:25Hrs Tue,FriU7 321 12:05Hrs 13:45Hrs FriU7 341 15:55Hrs 17:35Hrs Sun
ENTEBBE - KIGALIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 350 12:45Hrs 12:30Hrs Mon - Thu & SatU7 352 11:20Hrs 12:30Hrs Tue & ThuU7 352 17:20Hrs 18:30Hrs Fri
09:00Hrs 08:45Hrs SatU7 352 18:30Hrs 18:15Hrs Wed,Sun
KIGALI - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 351 13:00Hrs 14:45Hrs Mon - Thu & SatU7 353 19:00Hrs 20:45Hrs FriU7 353 18:45Hrs 21:55Hrs Sun
ENTEBBE - BUJUMBURAU7 360 09:30Hrs 09:30Hrs Tue & ThuU7 362 17:20Hrs 17:20Hrs FriU7 352 18:30Hrs 19:25Hrs Sun
BUJUMBURA - ENTEBBEU7 361 10:00Hrs 12:00Hrs Tue & ThuU7 363 17:50Hrs 20:45Hrs FriU7 353 19:55Hrs 21:55Hrs Sun
For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on 041 2 165555/ 0312165555 in KAMPALA.
Valid from 1 Feb 2013 Air Uganda Flight Schedule
6 0 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
8 164
95
4
6
9
79
3
2
7
42 39 7
4 2
7
3
8
1 5
9
14 15
18
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22 23 24 25
20
27 2826
29
31
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11 12
61 2 3 4 5
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CroSSWorD PUZZLE & SUDoKU
Clues across1. Ancestral divisions (6)
7. A source of reference, easy to pick up? (8)
8. The act of selling (4)
10. Longed for (6)
11. Structural plan (6)
14. Obtain (3)
16. American fast food (5)
17. Open this for access (4)
19. First performance (5)
21. A sweet drink, often associated with mint (5)
22. John ….. (Italian explorer) (5)
23. Cease (4)
26. Fruit with hard rind and juicy flesh (5)
28. … West, 1930s Hollywood actress (3)
29. Language of Egypt, Syria, etc. (6)
30. Sell (6)
31. Responsibility, burden (4)
32. Speed up (put your foot down?) (4,2,2)
33. Higher in rank (6)
Clues down1. Tracked down (6)
2. Large amphibious rodent (6)
3. Cast off (4)
4. Totalled (5,2)
5. Call to see someone (3,2)
6. Broke (5)
8. Starchy cereal (4)
9. Allow (3)
12. Chronic drunkard (3)
13. Bat droppings (5)
15. Criminal (5)
18. Possessor (5)
19. Add a soundtrack (3)
20. Wager (3)
21. Caretaker (7)
22. Male swan (3)
23. 6th planet from the sun (6)
24. Afternoon meals (or drinks) (4)
25. Small, rotating star (6)
26. Bog (5)
27. Afterwards (5)
28. Males (3)
30. Decays (4)
Place a number from 1 to 9 in
every empty cell so that each
row, each column and each 3x3
box contains all the numbers
from 1 to 9.
No number can appear twice in
a row, column or 3x3 box.
Do not guess – you can work
it out by a process of elimination.
Crossword
Sudoku
Answers across1. Tribes 7. Handbook 8. Sale 10. Craved 11. Design 14. Get 16. Donut 17. Door 19. Debut 21. Julep 22. Cabot23. Stop 26. Melon 28. Mae 29. Arabic 30. Retail 31. Onus 32. Step on it 33. Senior
Answers down1. Traced 2. Beaver 3. Shed 4. Added up 5. Pop in 6. Skint 8. Sago 9. Let 12. Sot 13. Guano 15. Felon 18. Owner 19. Dub 20. Bet 21. Janitor 22. Cob 23. Saturn 24. Teas 25. Pulsar 26. Marsh 27. Later 28. Men 30. Rots
6 0 | a s a n t e m a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3
The infl ight magazine of Air Uganda part of the
your
com
plim
enta
ry c
opy
Issue 14
Arusha
of Ugandan The Rise & Decline
Tanzania’s Multifaceted
Safari Capital
True Blue
Comedy
asante_newlook_cvr2.indd 5 4/19/13 12:38 PM
Asante Issue Num
ber 014 May - July 2013