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Summer Bulletin (APRIL – MAY - JUNE)

Fall Newsletter Submission DEADLINE: Aug 15

Artwork by Diane Jacky

To order yours, see the ad further down.



President’s Message – by Harold Collett

I’m filling in until January 1, 2015. Mike

stepped down as President, as he doesn’t

have enough time to devote to this office.

So I told Kathy I would help her as interim

president. She accepted my offer.

In this bulletin you will a nomination sheet;

please take time to fill it out. We need new

blood to help make us strong & move

forward.

Ron Costa has volunteered for Western VP

& Casey Crockett of Colorado is our new

Western Director. I volunteered for the

Central Director, an office which I look

forward to filling. I also asked Sandy O to be

a member of the COFBOD. All of these

appointments were approved by the board.

I asked Rylan Maves if he

would assist me as the

Youth Director & he said

yes. I ask from our

members please stand behind the COFBOD

& help our club grow. Two areas we need to

work on are our Western section & our

Youth Members.

At this time, I welcome our new members

to the COF Club, thanks for joining a great

club. Please send your concerns to:

[email protected] or 319.385.2515. Or

stop in 705 W. Madison, Mt. Pleasant, Iowa

52641

I hope everyone has a good summer.

Letter from the Editor – by James Clark, Publicity Director

As I nearly put to bed this issue of the NCOFC newsletter, or bulletin, I believe I can spend a moment or two to write to you as your new Publicity Director.

I am always humbled by a request to assume a leadership role and it usually

starts with my willingness to serve and be a part of something bigger. Many clubs for a variety of things lack a number of people with that willingness and clubs succeed on the back of the willing.

mailto:[email protected]



This willingness has gotten me into situations before where I have had opportunity to serve as the Publicity Director of the American Pigeon Fancier's Council in the early 90's, the Tennessee Llama Community in the early 2000's and, more recently the Tennessee Pigeon and Dove Club. However, typing this, I get a slight complex because ALL three of those organizations are disbanded. Maybe I came in too late, because one thing I noted in common with them was a high level of grudges and politics and bad blood.

These three things KILL hobby clubs! We must strive to keep this from happening in the NCOFC. I have already noted some.

A little about my background - I started raising Homers at the age of 15 while my siblings had Rollers, Chinese Owls, and Fantails. It was really a family affair as far as the kids were concerned. We didn't do much with them. I did a little flying and made sure to attend all the local club meets I could. A couple of years later, I had a single Giant Homer that I showed. Upon graduating High School, I traded pigeons for Basic Training in the USAF. Though I couldn't have pigeons for a while, I played the part of Ambassador, putting on presentations on pigeon history and breed variety. When I was stationed at RAF Chicksands, UK, I had talked the Base Commander into allowing a loft on base. Being in the dorms and wanting a level of

security, I never found a place. When I got married and moved off base, I got my loft built and filled it with Homers. I dragged my new wife all over the UK, visiting a variety of pigeon lofts and met some American Show Roller folks who welcomed me in and taught me to judge ASRs. During that time, I also founded a pigeon club for other fancier's like me in the military. Coming back into the States in 91, I had become Publicity Director for the APFC. Things were fine until life happened in '94 and I found myself without pigeons, other than books, cigarette and post cards, stamps, cigar box tops, and prints, until recently when I found the opportunity to return to the hobby. I wasn't sure I wanted to or not, but I analyzed breeds and decided I would go with a show breed. I lit upon Oriental Frills as a childhood favorite I could never afford until now.

I don't like politics. I'm retired Air Force with a prophetic gifting. All that means is I'm straight up, black and white. You will find me, as my friends do, corny, dry in humor, and the "King of Cheese." That's because I use humor to deflect and diffuse and it seems to work well in coaching efforts.



I am a "cat herder" and collaborator with some influential leadership abilities. I learned a long time ago that I can accomplish more with the latter two skills than by trying to force someone into my way of thinking.

As your new Publicity Director, newsletter and website updates will come to me. I put that announcement elsewhere in the newsletter.

For newsletter inputs, know that you don't have to be an eloquent writer like Sue or a learned writer like Mike to submit something for the newsletters. Just send me some thoughts and I will tidy it up for submission. Anyone can write a word or two.

For website updates, I realize we have a budget and have paid for a certain maintenance agreement for website updates. Respecting that, I may bundle updates and send monthly. But, please send me your updates and corrections anyway because I might be able to work it

out faster. Of course, time sensitive updates will take priority.

As I prepared for this newsletter, I have been pouring over those of the last three years or so for content feel, club history, etc. One of the things I noted was an effort by more than one person to revamp the Master Breeder program. I brought it up because what I find on the website could use some updates. Since I have a ways to go in order to qualify, I’d like to suggest we, as an organization, revisit this idea. I see there was once a committee for it. Maybe we need to organize anew. I’ve already started on one idea and that was to look at the MB programs from four other national breed clubs, copying the text of one of the oldest breeds, and appending with thoughts of the others. I have drafted a more comprehensive, but not overwhelming, MB document we can start with for discussion. Let’s talk about it.

We'll see you in the next newsletter! James

A moment with Mike (PART 1 of 2) – by Mike McLin It is the mid 1970's. The pigeon Journal was a monthly and subscription price was $5 per year. (12 issues!) It was 65 + pages long depending on the issue and print so fine, many people these

days will have trouble reading it without spectacles -so much material and articles. There may be several



articles by different authors on your favorite breed each month. Can you imagine that? Bands were 5 cents and shipping was 13 cents for 50 bands. The Grand National was held in Minneapolis (1974) with approximately 4500 birds exhibited. The secretary in the 70's for the NYBS was Rita Courtney. Check it out; she is still doing that job, WOW. A Black lace tail satinette, I was admiring was listed as having over 12 major Championships in the span of 1971 to 1975 As I was looking at it I noticed the top of the legs were colored. In a "88" issue a West German black lace satinette Champion has the same laced hocks and black on the top of the legs. We are still trying to clean that up 43 years later I can see that's a tough one and one I'm not likely to see completed in my time with them, we will see! An article on hand feeding baby homers for FUN was in one issue. Who has the time to hand feed a pigeon for fun? Many of us did just that back then, Ah what a time for the hobby. The first Club formed for our breed was in 1893 in New York. They were called the American Oriental Frill Club and is still going today. At that time, they looked very much like our Classic Old frills of today. They thrilled the breeders at that time just as they do in our time now.

Back in that day, Black Laced blondinettes were common along with Black Lace Satinettes. At that time in the early 1900's "02" "05" there is no mention of blue lace sats, dun sats or blonds, or any barred blondinettes. It was not till a few years later that blue laced Satinettes were mentioned in writings. We were very lucky that the original type of bird we love today survived the change to the short beak larger bird we see today. It is almost amazing to me when I think about it. It was sometime in the 40's that the heads started to change as leaders in the breed at that time decided they wanted a shorter beak and drew a following. Over history you can see that pattern in many breeds, and it’s hard to believe, but many times these "leaders" in the breed lead them to become difficult to raise breeds that have fertility problems, health problems and losing the ability to feed their own young. Nice job. So we are lucky one of our favorite breeds survived that period of time somehow, and is still on the rise today as a favorite breed among the fanciers. We were climbing towards the top as one of the most popular breeds at Louisville and I'm sure we will hang in there as we continue to pick up more members that show there in the next few years. You have an old breed that has come full circle. I guess you can say it really never went out of favor as some fanciers always had them in their lofts over the long haul either as



droppers or just to have that fancy laced bird around to look at.

A Moment with Mike (PART 2 of 2) – by Mike McLin As some of you know from the MyFamily site I have decided to take some time off and retire from the President’s position in the club. Back to back, bad, long winters have put a strain on my business. I have a sports shop my son operates and a precision grinding company I spend most of my time in. Over the winter the Grinding company supported the store which wore me out. Not many people buying skis and snowboards when we were below zero for most of the winter. Now with spring we are working overtime, 7 days a week to keep up as the summer sports in the area boom each year with tourist and residents returning, even though the temps are still cool I think everyone in the area has cabin fever and wants to get outside. I'm looking to retire from working period in 2 more years. That said, the club needs someone to oversee a more extensive update, revamping, or a complete overhaul of the website among other things, and I do not have the time, desire, nor the energy to do this in 2014. I still plan on hitting the shows that I can this year. The birds are breeding a couple months behind again this year but a few are

hitting the floor so I will have a few interesting birds to watch go through the molt. I know with the upcoming elections we will have people in position that will participate in the club functions and help at the shows. The Club really needs some more judges. I asked to get an apprentice program going and we really have not had much luck getting members trying it. To my knowledge, Tyler Weening from Canada and me are the only ones I am aware of participating in this. Boy, when you apprentice with a judge you really get to know much more about the breed if nothing else. I apprenticed with one of the top Oriental Frill judges last year to gain more information on the breed. I thought I had a pretty good handle on it by reading the standard often but my eyes were really opened and I learned way more about the breed by handling the birds and having the judge tell me first-hand what to look for, how to groom and keep them in show condition. While I was asking questions the "eventual" show Reserve Champion breeder stepped closer to see and hear what was being said and one comment was



he never knew that, or looked for that particular thing on his birds. This, after 14 years with the breed. Station is very important in that breed also. You can always pick something up by sitting in, and either paying close attention or apprentice judging. In my opinion, all of our judges at this time should apprentice with each other once. Why? By doing this we would each start to see the standard alike and narrow up the variance we see between judges. When we all look at the standard and start to weigh the points of the standard the same we can do a better job of judging them. Judging together and talking them through would help a lot. Possibly doing color classes that they are not competing in or something like that, or a blondinette class to gain more insight to them, maybe, an after show get together with some birds. Or a Friday night Stock bird show which I participated in last year and they will be doing this again at Des Moines. I remember one breed I had where everyone knew in the mid-west you brought a smaller, tighter feathered bird when a judge (master breeder, master judge) from California was judging because he favored keeping the birds smaller and tighter feathered. It fell within the generous size dimensions of the standard but there was a definite difference in point of view. Over the years the birds kept growing and the standard was finally changed and not

without a fight, for these now giants that have been developed. The point from that is if we work as a group to see the standard the same, and the birds as close as possible, we won't have this type of thing develop. The same goes for keeping the birds feeding their own young. Whatever breeding techniques and crosses you make, you have to work back to good parenting. Way too many breeds that were excellent parents that now, even though they have a homer length beak in some cases, will not feed their young up all the way. In the last Pure bred pigeon Breeders Issue, one of our own members Rick Tucker wrote on judging the Chinese owls. The most interesting part to me was when he talked about how the bird must stand or also known as standing at station in the judging cage and how he stressed the importance of that. We should always try to place a bird that will station for the time required for the judge to view it very highly. It is a show bird and should be showing while in the judging cages. Our breed at "station" should stand still with the tail down and head level in a position that has the eye approximately over the toes. This is very important in our Classics. If a bird can do this consistently from one show to the next it will always place well. It may not be perfectly marked when examining it in hand but when a bird will stand still, and give us a good long look at it and you can judge the "overall" impression



the bird gives you. That is what a show bird is all about. You can get see the frill sticking out, the tail at the proper angle, wings resting on the tail, the peak crest, eye over the toe at station. At the Des Moines show I judged, after the judging was done I was taking pictures of the exhibitors in front of the cages and I intentionally had them positioned beside their bird in the show cage. What I was surprised and pleased to see much later, when I got home and was going through the photos was that when I took the photos, the top birds were still at station showing in the background with their owner standing to the side and front of them after a length of time between judging and the photo session. Truly show birds. When the bird is anxious, pacing the cage, flying up and just will not settle down no matter how much time you give it, and then it is very hard to judge it as a show bird. Some birds crouch and others look like they are ready to fly at any second. Some times this is just that the bird has not been handled much or has had time in the show cages getting used to being placed in them. I will also add that it is also in the breeding and selecting your show birds and from them, your breeding stock, to keep the cycle going. It is up to the judge to try and settle the birds down and handle them gently so they calm down.

Sometimes you end up with a row of old cock birds that just won't settle down and continue to fight or spin and coo rather than show. You can separate them as best you can, but after you give them their chance to show, once in a while even the best, past champion may not make the cut that particular day because he won't station to be judged. There were a few good articles in the pure bred pigeon along with Rick’s, so if you get some time to find the nuggets of information that you can apply to your breeding program it will be worth it. I have been going to 5 or 6 shows a year and look at, and handle as many birds as I can, stewarding birds to find out what the body type, feels like. Are the feathers smooth and slick in your hand, or roughed up, or dirty? Does the bird struggle to be caught and continue to fight to get away every second you have it in your hands? Have you ever looked at the eyes to see if they are clear and bright, both the same color and have no breaks or so called cracks in either one? Does the upper mandible and lower mandible on the beaks match with no over or under beak hanging over? Can you see a gap with the beak closed? Try to take in several shows you will learn something at each one if you want to. A good breeder will be very familiar with their birds and be looking for these things and always be breeding to improve their stock through correct mating.



Next time I hope to finish an article on the difference between a Master Breeder, and

a Master of the Breed. What’s the difference? BIG difference.

Blond Moments by Ron Costa, “Best” Western VP

Recently a few blue blonds have been popping up in several COF lofts. A bit strange that it has taken them this long to begin to crop up, as, I believe, most of the original crosses of Sats to OF Blonds, to create the blondinette in COFs, involved a blue laced satinette. I know my original cross was, way back in 2003. Some must have used an ash red satinette as a cross also, because early on in their creation there were a lot of ash red blonds being produced. As I do not like ash reds in either sats or blonds, I used only a couple during the years I had them. Now that we are beginning to see Blue Blonds, they are of much better quality than our original crosses, especially some of the ash red blonds that were produced back then. We are seeing better type, smaller size, and better color and lacing/bars. As in all COF blonds, we still have a ways to go, but I can see great things with what is being produced today. I'll leave structure alone in this short article, as the structure should be the exact same in both Sats and Blonds. Let’s dwell on color and markings. Let’s take the most difficult areas first. The shield and spot tails (Blue

Blonds should always have spot tails as they are patterned birds) should be exactly the same in Blue Blonds and Sats, marking wise. IN Blue White Bar Blonds, they bars should be a very clear distinct white, with a trailing edge of black on each bar. In Blue Laced Blonds, the shield should be a very distinct white, with dark blue lacing on each feather. On both patterns, the flight tips should also be marked with an elongated white mark. A picture is attached that exemplifies that marking, and what a well-marked white barred blond should look like.

Good bars are good bars, however lacing can vary. If the underlying pattern is T-pattern, then the lacing will, very often, be very fine and even. If the underlying pattern



is checker, the lacing can vary from something approaching a T-pattern lacing to a heavy check or even sometimes an arrow point. All in between are acceptable, but preference should be given to the most distinct form or lacing, and that is usually in T-patterns. Keep in mind that the shields should be two colors and not three... the white and the dark blue lacing.

One thing I will mention here is that although Blue Sats and Blue Blonds are the same blue, the color will vary between the two varieties. Due to the pied characteristic of Sats, the blue on a Sat will be a shade more pastel than what you find on a Blue Blond. It’s just the nature of the beast. Sats are usually more "powdery" blue, while Blonds are a darker shade. Also there is a slight difference, usually, between cocks

and hens, with blue hens being a tad darker than cocks.

Blue blonds are to have a dark blue body to offset the white of the shield and spot tail. Usually blues do not show the frostiness in the belly/chest area like many black laced blonds do. You may find a bit in the back area between the shoulders and perhaps a small amount underneath the bird, but almost never going up into the chest and head area. That frostiness is a trademark of many blacks/browns in Blonds, but not in Blues. Again, the darker blues will be the T-patterns, and these will also have the finer lacing. Matings, for the time being, can be laced to lace, bar to bar, or lace to bar. Once we get them where we want them, you can then mate bar to bar and lace to lace. I would



mention one thing, however. We want medium width bars in our birds. Not too wide, not too narrow, so as to show off the white properly. A trick to widening the bars (which at present does not seem to be needed in most I have seen), is to mate a nicely laced bird to one with narrow bars, to narrow the bars, mate bar to bar. Use other colors to your blues; if necessary, but after you have a number of blues, I would discourage crossing them further to spreads (black/browns), or ash reds. Blue being recessive to both, will result in less blues being bred. Lastly, there IS a corresponding color that

makes a good loft mate to Blue Blonds, and

that is Brown patterned birds. Brown

pattern blonds are the same as our white

barred brown spot tails we see so often in

shows. These work the exact same way as I

have mentioned for blues. PLUS, the added

factor is that is a complimentary color. So,

blues and browns can be mated freely with

no adverse effect on either color. Same for

dilutes in these two colors, i.e. Silver and

Khaki. Therefore, you can have four colors

in your loft that are compatible if you

choose to go that route. Then, if you so

choose, you can even add ash red into the

mix.

Using ash red will have no effect on the

color in the blues and browns you raise;

however, it will affect your ash red cocks,

by adding flecking to their color, which is

undesirable. For me, because I do not like

ash red birds in most breeds, I would not go

that route.

So, there, in a nutshell, is my philosophy on breeding Blue Blonds. Try a couple pair. I think you will like them. Ron Costa, Eastern Director



Color Class Numbering (SEE ADDENDUM)

Satinette 1 Black Lace Satinette 2 Dun Lace Satinette 3 Brown Lace Satinette 4 Khaki Lace Satinette 5 Ash Red Lace Satinette 6 Ash Yellow Lace Satinette 7 Blue Lace Satinette 8 Silver Lace Satinette 9 Brown Lace-Spot Tail Satinette 10 Khaki Lace-Spot Tail Satinette 11 Black White Bar Satinette 12 Dun White Bar Satinette 13 Bluette Satinette 14 Silverette Satinette 15 Brown Bar Satinette 16 Khaki Bar Satinette 17 Ash Red Bar Satinette

18 Ash Yellow Bar Satinette 19 Rare Color Satinette

Blondinette 20 Black & Dun Lace Blondinette 21 Brown & Khaki Lace Blondinette 22 Red & Yellow Lace Blondinette 23 Ash Red Lace & Ash Yellow Lace Blondinette 24 Blue & Silver Lace Blondinette 25 Brown & Khaki Lace Spot Tail Blondinette 26 Red & Yellow Lace Spot Tail Blondinette 27 Black & Dun White Bar Blondinette 28 Blue & Silver White Bar Blondinette 29 Brown & Khaki White Bar Blondinette 30 Red & Yellow White Bar Blondinette 31 Rare color Blondinette

Baby steps in Genetics by Mike McLin

Just a short blip on some blue collar genetics as some of these terms are thrown around and many newer breeders have not had a chance, or the breeds to talk about colors and how to determine what you have at hatching time. Ron Costa had touched on a few things in an earlier bulletin and I just want to continue the thread from a person who learns these things through breeding.

I can't talk in genetic terms and when asking questions to some of the long time breeders in the sister breed of Oriental frills I get a lot of technical terms I have a hard time applying to what I am doing. Once I breed it in my loft I understand what is going on and what the guys mean by these techy terms when applied to my own birds.



So to start with, we often hear the term "intense" and "dilute" Intense is what I call the normal, such as black, blue, red, of various patterns, Dilute comes in the same pigments and patterns as intense but diluted, weakened (lighter) in the amount of pigment used to about 1/3 of the normal. More pale to the eye or lighter in color. I remember looking at khaki by itself and thinking it is kinda brown ish. That was until I set it next to a brown and then it looked almost yellow compared to the brown. I took a picture of the khaki and when I later looked at the picture of the khaki by itself again looked brownish to my eye. I thought I can't post that because it doesn't look as remarkable as it did next to a brown. In the blondinettes the intense colors are black, blue, brown, and red laced and blue, red, and brown bars. The dilute colors of these are true dun, silver, khaki, and yellow and silver laces and bars. A good thing to remember is that all intense babies when hatched have long yellow down. All dilutes have either short down or naked when hatched. This is the best time to check these guys and you get a first glimpse of what you have, right off the bat. I breed black, brown and dun laced blondinettes and I had a pair in the nest of

my dun hen out of blacks, and brown cock out of reds that had very long, very yellow down (intense) their beaks were clear flesh colored. They were doing great and I had the idea to put another baby under them which was a day or 2 older. Not a good idea. Another pair I had raised 3 with no problem but this pair I found one youngster didn't make it and of course it was the blond. A few days later I found the other one gone and the little mismarked bird is doing just fine. I will not know what was going to come of the two clear flesh colored beaks with the long yellow down. My blondinettes so far have not had that long or bright yellow down or the clear flesh beaks. The beaks have been tinted black, reddish, or brown. I am hoping that I can get a repeat on their next round. Getting to know your birds and slowly work the genetics into your brain so you can understand it through actually breeding them is the most interesting part of the hobby to me now. There are tons of books on genetics, but when you breed them it makes more sense and you can hold your project results in your hand. I'm sure many people could give an educated guess as to what might be but in the loft when another male jumps your favorite hen it can change the results and does happen way more often than we know. You will never know until you try.



Promoting the Pigeon Fancy by James Clark, Publicity

Director

Since coming back into the pigeon hobby after a 20 year interruption, I find the hobby in a decline in general and am doing what I can to spark a renewed promotion to the public. I’ve heard naysaying from various(non COF) folks about how club “members won't do anything to help" and we "can't get kids away from their video games," or "members are getting too old and sick to do anything anymore."

We need to break away from this thinking and find solutions. In the 80's, we had video games and TV and I'd rather be in the loft than anywhere else as a teenager. 30+ years later finds me still enjoying just being in the loft.

4H, Scout, and FFA groups are as active today as they were in the past and Scouts still have Animal Husbandry badges. Now it's called Animal Science. Take a look at their website; there are half a dozen badges the pigeon hobby can help with.

To promote our hobby, we should target these groups to get them interested.

The American Pigeon Fancier’s Council and the Pigeon Vet Association, Dr. David Marx, did a lot of work in the 90's to overcome negative connotations. They released publications stating that pigeons do not transmit diseases to humans. As their

former Publicity Director, I still have those booklets.

Here are some ideas we can use to promote our hobby and COFs to the general public.

· Use your Facebook Page to gain the attention of kids and young adults in your circle and promote the hobby in a good light with gorgeous pictures of birds in relatively clean environments. Nothing turns a non-pigeon person away more than images of dirty, ill maintained lofts. · Establish and maintain relationships to local leadership in FFA, 4H, Scouts and other kid groups to do some PR work. I’m currently working with my county’s 4H to establish a 4H pigeon project. · Some groups produce public pigeon displays, including elementary school displays, a Home Depot lawn show, and more. That prompted me to consider sites in my area to contact regarding having an educational display at one of their scheduled events. I got favorable responses from a few. I only started with kid focused activities, but you might discover a broader range in



your area. You could build a 3D display of pigeon history and facts that can provide information to spectators and have a representative available to answer questions or a show cage display with different breeds and show ribbons. I once had a similar display on base while stationed in the UK where I educated a local Girl Scout troop.

Making a concerted effort to promote the hobby to the next generation, the youth, is

imperative in the success of the pigeon hobby and I also believe that it promotes a healthier view of the hobby overall.

Here is an inspirational link showing what others have done elsewhere, http://www.pigeonpresentations.com .

The opportunities are endless if we prepare and seek them out. When you do something like this in your area, please send in pictures and some details so we can share in future newsletters.

Central Director Report by Harold Collett

This is my first attempt to fill this office. To

our new members, I’m an old pigeon

farmer, after 40+ years in the dust in the

loft & at shows; I ended up with Pigeon

Lung, which really means Get Away From

Birds. So, now we are Snow Birds & we love

it. We are seeing the USA. If we are close by

you I might give you a call a couple days in

advance & stop in.

I received a phone call from Bob Rainy &

everything is in good shape down there.

On a sad note, Don McCullough from

Marshfield, MO passed on. Don & his wife,

Pam, attended the Des

Moines Show for many

years. Thoughts & prayers

are for his wife & family.

Looking forward to the show season &

heading south after the Des Moines show. I

hope to be seeing you, if our paths cross.

http://www.pigeonpresentations.com/

http://www.pigeonpresentations.com/



Western Director Report by Casey Crockett

Greetings from Colorado,

Well the breeding season is in full gear. I am working from 6 pairs of a mix consisting of just about any color you can imagine both Blondinette and Satinette. So far I have banded 8 young. No superstars yet but you never know what the next clutch might give you. My Pigmy Pouters are not faring so well yet with only three breeding pairs at this time. The weather is fine with cool mornings and warm days mixed with rain. The flowers love it and the birds are pretty

happy too. There are no other Old Classic Frill breeders in the area to work with at this time; however, I should be able to spread the wealth at the Denver swap and shop in September. You never know what a mustard seed will produce until it is planted. Best wishes on your breeding season and I hope to see you all in Louisville.

Casey Crockett

Canadian Director Report

Tyler sent a note that all was well but he’s been extremely busy. Report next

bulletin

Southern Director Report

When you use bishop birds to raise this year’s young, the hidden gem will show up in the future. I produced only three bishop babies this year, from six pair (two rounds). For the past three years I culled all the young, which were bishop, the day they were ready to be banded. If you don't buy birds with certain defects, you will have a better stud for the future. A shell crest is bad and looks terrible. #'s of pairs don't

produce champions. One pair of quality birds will get you to the top quicker, than a loft full. Overcrowded loft will produce a large problem. I try to breed from two pair from each color that I have. If you are a beginner, stick with the most popular, standard colors. Station is a must, along with type and the proper color. Learn the NCOF standard. Culls will produce more culls.



Vaccinate is a must before you go to a show, especially, for PMV. I had done my loft a horrible injustice by going to a show with birds that weren't vaccinated. When I

returned home I lost two thirds of my stud within in three weeks. Classic Pigeon Loft: Bob

Web Site Updates & Newsletter Submissions

As your new Publicity Director, please send me a note regarding web site updates needed and/or newsletter input to

[email protected].

Reminder: UserID and Password to our site UserID BrownLace Password BlackLace




WANTED: 2014 NYBS Futurity Judge

This could be you! If so, contact Harold Collett, [email protected] or 319.385.2515




Financial Report

Balance as of March 31, 2014: $2519.11

Credits –

Receipts Membership Fees and Bands cash and checks: $12

Receipts Membership Fees and Bands PayPal: $62.75

Receipts from Color Book Sales: Total receipts: 203.75

Expenses –

NPA payment (First half of 2015 Bands): $420

PayPal fee: $3.38

Postage: $20.00

Total expenses: $443.38

Balance as of June 30, 2014: $2150.48

Respectfully submitted, Kathy Wescott



COFC Welcomes Our New Members!

Tracy Fleming - [email protected]

James Frees - [email protected]

James Clark - [email protected]

Robert Schipper [email protected]

Stephen Mitchell [email protected]

Satinettes for sale

~Most colors ~ Stock to show quality ~ Priced upon quality.

If interested contact me at:[email protected] or call me at: 440-821-9089

Serious inquires only please.







tel:440-821-9089



Association of Pigeon Veterinarians National Avian Disease Task Force for Pigeon & Doves

The Classic Oriental Frill Club supports the following statement. It is being presented here to educate those that may not be aware of this fact about the pigeon hobby. For further information, please contact the distinguished panel of Doctors of Veterinary Medicine listed below.

STATEMENT

The Association of Pigeon Veterinarians (USA), after careful review of the documentation of the Avian Disease Research Committee of the American Pigeon Fanciers' Council, and the implemented studies of the National Avian Disease Task Force for Pigeons and Doves, and consideration of the data from the United States Communicable Disease Centre (CDC), we do affirm and testify that to our knowledge, the raising, keeping and the exercising of pigeons and doves represents no more of a health hazard than the keeping of other communal or domestic pets.

The above resolution was passed unanimously by the Association of Pigeon Veterinarians at the second annual Avian Veterinary Symposium of the National Avian Disease Task Force for Pigeons and Doves.

David Marx, DVM President Norman, Oklahoma

John Esposito, DVM Vice President El Paso, Texas

Roger Harlin, DVM Secretary Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

Kathy Fryar, DVM Treasurer Willis, Texas

Everett Bryant, DVM Recording Secretary Storrs, Connecticut



We will have a club meeting at the NYBS, Friday the 24th of October at 4:30.

Dinner with Club Members at 7:30. We need a head count on this also. Times are Eastern

time. Location TBA

Please send me something you would to bring up before the club.

Also, anyone who wants to be an Apprentice Judge, Please sign up, send me a note...

[email protected] or Harold Collett, 705 W. Madison, Mt. Pleasant, Iowa 52641

Officer Nominations

We have several people filling some interim positions, but it’s time for an official election for

the officer positions below. If you like who is in the role now, maybe invite them to do it again.

Simply cut off this portion and mail it to Ron Costa 1266 Village Terrace Ct, Dunwoody GA

30338

or copy and paste it into an email to him at [email protected] NLT August 15.

President ________________________________________________

Sec/treasurer ________________________________________________ Eastern VP________________________________________________ Southern Director________________________________________________ Eastern Director________________________________________________ Canadian Director________________________________________________





Last minute Addendum

The Color Class Numbers on Page 12 have been deemed outdated and have been replaced with

this set, also found on the NCOFC web site. These should be used for upcoming shows.

Color Class Numbering - Updated April 2014 Satinette

1 Black Lace Satinette 2 Dun Lace Satinette

3 Brown Lace Satinette 4 Khaki Lace Satinette 5 Ash Red Lace Satinette

6 Ash Yellow Lace Satinette 7 Blue Lace Satinette 8 Silver Lace Satinette 9 Brown Lace-Spot Tail Satinette

10 Khaki Lace-Spot Tail Satinette 11 Black White Bar Satinette 12 Dun White Bar Satinette 13 Bluette Satinette 14 Silverette Satinette 15 Brown White-Bar Satinette 16 Khaki White-Bar Satinette

17 Ash Red White-Bar Satinette 18 Ash Yellow White- Bar Satinette 19 Rare Color Satinette

Blondinette

31. Black Lace Blondinette 32. Dun Lace Blondinette 33. Brown Lace Blondinette

34. Khaki Lace Blondinette 35. Red Lace Blondinette 36. Yellow Lace Blondinette 37. Ash Red Lace Blondinette 38. Ash Yellow Lace Blondinette 39. Blue Lace Blondinette 40. Silver Lace Blondinette 41. Brown Lace Spot Tail Blondinette 42. Khaki Lace Spot Tail Blondinette 43. Red Lace Spot Tail Blondinette 44. Yellow Lace Spot Tail Blondinette 45. Black White Bar Blondinette 46. Dun White Bar Blondinette 47. Blue White Bar Blondinette 48. Silver White Bar Blondinette 49. Brown White Bar Blondinette 50. Khaki White Bar Blondinette 51. Red White Bar Blondinette 52. Yellow White Bar Blondinette 53. Rare color Blondinette

Eastern Director Report

Saso has reported working seven days a week and will have a note in the next bulletin.

artwork by diane jacky to order yours, see the ad further ... · pdf fileartwork by diane...

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