Companion Planting...

UT Extension—Greene County April 2011 Volume 3, Issue 2

Special points of interest: Making A Plan For

Your Garden

Calcium Ammonium Nitrate—A Possible Replacement for Ammonium Nitrate

Next Cicada Emergence

April Gardening Tips

Companion Planting Chart

Inoculants For Your Legumes

Utilizing DE

“The Greene Thumb”

Planning what to plant in the vegetable garden can be exciting when you

start adding companion plants! For a traditional Greene County garden,

consider adding the following plants to your garden to help improve the

taste of the vegetables you are growing, attract beneficial insects, repel

diseases and insects and improve the overall quality of your garden.

Most all folks in Greene County grow tomatoes. Luckily, tomato allies are

many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic,

head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pea, pepper,

marigold, and sow thistle.

Planting basil repels flies and mosquitoes, and improves growth and fla-

vor. Bee balm, chives and mint also improve health and flavor. Borage

deters tomato hornworms, and improves growth and flavor. Dill, until ma-

ture, improves growth and health, yet mature dill retards tomato growth.

An enemy of tomatoes is corn because they are attacked by the same

worm, and kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Tomato plants can also stunt

the growth of your carrots, but the carrots will still be of good flavor.

Beware of potatoes! Keep separated as both crops can get early and late

blight contaminating one another. Lastly, keep apricot, dill, fennel, cab-

bage and cauliflower away from tomatoes, and DON’T plant them under

walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt, a devastating disease that at-

tacks tomatoes growing underneath walnut trees.

Hopefully these tips will lead to a fruitful harvest of tomatoes in your gar-

den this year!

 

Inoculants For Your Legumes: Worth Your While?...

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A garden soil inoculant consists of very special bacteria called Rhizobium leguminosarum. Beans and peas are in the legumes plant family, which has a wonderful ability to be able to fixate nitro-gen into the soil. Without getting too technical, they take nitrogen that is naturally occurring in the air, and “trap” that useable nitrogen, through its root system, into the soil to use as fertilizer. The Rhizobium leguminosarum bacteria are the guys that help facilitate this nitrogen fixing pro-cess. The bacteria get inside the legume roots, make a home there, and then create a situation where the legume roots fixate nitrogen into the soil. The bacteria are naturally found in soil every-where, but not in large enough numbers to make a big enough impact with the legume roots. That’s why it is important for you to add inoculant to peas and other legumes to promote better growth and production. Garden soil inoculants can be found in different forms. There are some that come in granular form, and are packaged in a convenient shaker. You can also find the inoculant as a mixture of humus and the bacteria. This is probably the most commonly used version used by gardeners. By adding the bacteria to the soil, you are greatly increasing the overall health and production of your legumes! Now, inoculating your seeds may sound kind of intimidating, but it’s actually a very simple pro-cess. Many gardeners may have various tech-niques they use for adding the inoculant to their seeds. Some gardeners will mix the inoculant with water to create thick slurry, which they use to coat the seeds as they are planting. Others

will just dump the seeds into the bag containing the garden soil inoculate and shake it all around – “Shake N’ Bake” style. Some prefer to simply place the seeds in the holes, or furrows, like any normal seed, then sprinkle a good dose of the garden soil inoculant on top of the seeds. Howev-er you choose, make sure to cover the seeds well with the inoculant. You can’t over-inoculant the seeds. The more you use the better. In fact, there’s more chance of you not using enough in-oculant on the seeds, so make sure to use a good bit on each seed. Once you have enough inoculant on each seed, cover the seeds with soil, and water them in well. You want to keep the seeds consistently moist until they germinate just like you normally would most seeds. That is all there is to it! The bacteria should bond with the roots as the seedlings grow, and help to significantly boost the production, and overall health of your plants. Another benefit of the nitrogen fixing power of legumes and Rhizobium leguminosarum is they improve the nutrients of the soil for vegetables you may plant after the plants are finished for the year. Planting right after the beans and/or peas will give the following plants a good boost of ni-trogen in the soil. You will be surprised at the benefit of adding a garden soil inoculant to your peas, beans, and other legume family plants!

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April Gardening Tips:  

This is an action-packed month for gardening. Gardens are bursting with color from all of the

flowering bulbs and spring flowering trees and shrubs but you probably have weeds popping up

everywhere as well. Temperatures are cool enough that it’s pleasant to work outdoors but it’s warm

enough that perennials plants have broken their dormancy. This also is the month when we have

our last frost making it a great time to plant annuals and vegetables. Following are some gardening

ideas and suggestions to help you do the most for your garden this month:

Shrubs and Trees You can prune summer flowering shrubs like Crepe Myrtle after the last extremely cold weather

but before they leaf out significantly.

Prune spring flowering shrub like forsythia, weigela, Japanese quince, and lilac within 2 to 3

weeks after the last petals have dropped. Prune these shrubs at the base, near the ground to

help rejuvenate its growth and keep it flowering heavy.

Fertilize shrubs and trees if this wasn't done in February or March. Use an acid type fertilizer to

feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. Use an

all-purpose fertilizer to feed roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use granular type

fertilizers, be sure to water it in thoroughly.

Perennials, Annuals, and Bulbs Prune any semi-woody perennials like Salvia greggii, Lavender, Sage, Artemisia, and

Careopteris. Prepare your annual planting beds now so they are ready when you want to plant.

The addition of well-rotted manure, processed manure, peat moss or compost is good additives

for building compost humus in the soil. I recommend not planting annuals until after April 15th,

our average last frost-free date.

Plant tender bulbs and tubers (gladiola, lilies and dahlias). You may continue planting additional

bulbs every two weeks until mid June to ensure a continuous source of bloom.

Deadhead or remove spent flowers from spring blooming bulbs. Don’t remove foliage until it

yellows or freely pulls loose when slightly tugged.

Fertilize spring blooming bulbs just after blooming. A complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 at a rate

of 2 pounds per 100 sq. ft.

If you noticed smaller blooms on your bulbs this spring, divide crowded planting as blooming

finishes (especially daffodils).

Watch for iris borer on your iris. For control, use Dimethoate (Cygon 2E) when the new growth is

6-9 inches in height and then as needed.

Stake now, any perennials which lodge or fall over from the weight of their heavy blooms in late

spring or summer. Staking now will allow plenty of time for new growth to hide your support

structures, preventing them from taking away from the beauty of your perennials. Continued on page 4

April Gardening Tips continued...

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Stake clematis and any

other vines which could

use the added support

as new growth emerges

and they begin to

flower.

Fruits and

Veggies While fruit trees are

blooming, refrain from

spraying any insecticides

to protect the bee

population busy

pollinating the flowers.

Within a week after petal

drop, you can resume

using any pesticides.

After petal drop, consider

spraying your peach,

plum, and cherry fruit

trees for protection from

fungal diseases like

brown rot, rust, and leaf

spots. Maneb (also sold

as mancozeb and

dithane) works well for

these diseases.

You can still plant these

cool-season veggies this

month: spinach, head

and leaf lettuce, collards,

turnip greens, onions,

beets, broccoli, cabbage,

Brussel sprouts,

cauliflower, carrots, early

potatoes, radish and

Swiss chard can be direct

seeded or transplanted

into the garden. After

April 15th, plant warm

season veggies like

tomatoes, peppers, and

corn. Planting of the “high

sugar” or sugar sweet

corn varieties should be

delayed until May 1st

because the seeds do not

germinate in cold garden

soils.

Lawn Care For warm season

grasses such as zoysia

or Bermuda grass, April

15th marks your fist

application of fertilizer.

Use 1 pound of nitrogen

per 1,000 sq. ft. Until

April 15th, it’s an ideal

time to apply a

combination of slow-

release fertilizer and

pre-emergent herbicide

for crabgrass control to

your cool-season

(fescue) lawn. You want

to apply this combination

before dandelions reach

the puff-ball stage. The

fertilizer will boost the

growth of your lawn and

have it looking great for

summer and the

herbicide will prevent

crabgrass. Numerous

brands are on the market

and which ever you

select, be sure to follow

label directions.

Odds and Ends Edge your garden beds.

Clean your pond or water

feature and remove

winter debris. Cutback

and remove all dead

plant debris from your

potted aquatic plants.

Begin feeding fish

around mid-April.

Pull weeds now while the

task is easy and the

weather is pleasant. You

may find it easier to use

a chemical like Round-

Up to “spot” spray weeds

in a flower bed. Be

careful when using such

chemicals to not spray it

on desired plants. Round

-Up-up and its related

chemicals are not

selective herbicides and

work by killing anything

green. It’s good to

maintain a layer of 3"- 4"

of mulch around your

plants in your garden.

Now is a great time to

add any needed mulch

to your garden getting it

ready for the possibly hot

and dry summer.

Apri l 2011 “The Greene Thumb” Page 5

“Gardening requires a lot of water… most of it in the form of perspiration!”

~Lou Erickson~

Companion Planting Chart for Home & Market Gardening... CROP: COMPANIONS: INCOMPATIBLE:

Asparagus Tomato, Parsley, Basil

Beans Most Vegetables & Herbs Onion, Garlic, Gladiolus

Beans, Bush Irish Potato, Cucumber, Corn, Strawberry,

Celery, Summer Savory Onion

Beans, Pole Corn, Summer Savory, Radish Onion, Beets, Kohlrabi, Sunflower

Beets Cabbage & Onion Families, Lettuce Pole Beans

Cabbage Family Aromatic Herbs, Celery, Beets, Onion Family Dill, Strawberries, Pole Beans, Tomato

Carrots English Pea, Lettuce, Rosemary,

Onion Family, Sage, Tomato Dill

Celery Onion & Cabbage Families, Tomato,

Bush Beans, Naturtium

Corn Irish Potato, Beans, English Pea,

Pumpkin, Cucumber, Squash Tomato

Cucumber Beans, Corn, English Pea, Sunflowers, Radish Irish Potato, Aromatic Herbs

Eggplant Beans, Marigold

Lettuce Carrot, Radish, Strawberry, Cucumber

Parsley Tomato, Asparagus

Pea, English Carrots, Radish, Turnip, Cucumber, Corn, Beans Onion Family, Gladiolus, Irish Potato

Potato, Irish Beans, Corn, Cabbage Family,

Marigolds, Horseradish Pumpkin, Squash, Tomato,

Cucumber, Sunflower

Pumpkins Corn, Marigold Irish Potato

Radish English Pea, Nasturtium, Lettuce, Cucumber Hyssop

Spinach Strawberry, Faba Bean

Squash Nasturtium, Corn, Marigold Irish Potato

Tomato Onion Family, Nasturtium, Marigold, Asparagus, Carrot, Parsley, Cucumber

Irish Potato, Fennel, Cabbage Family

Turnip English Pea Irish Potato

Diatomaceous earth is a remarkable, all-natural product made from tiny fossilized water plants. Diatomaceous Earth is a naturally occurring siliceous sedimentary mineral compound from microscopic skeletal remains of unicellular algae-like plants called diatoms. These plants have been part of the earth's ecology since prehistoric times. It is believed that 30 million years ago the diatoms built up into deep, chalky deposits of diatomite. The diatoms are mined and ground up to render a powder that looks and feels like talcum powder to us. It is a mineral based pesticide. DE is approximately 3% magnesium, 33% silicon, 19% calcium, 5% sodium, 2% iron and many other trace minerals such as titanium, boron, manganese, copper and zirconium. To insects DE is a lethal dust with micro-scopic razor sharp edges. These sharp edges cut through the insects protective

covering drying it out and killing them when they are either dusted with DE or if it applied as a wettable powder spray. If they ingest the DE it will shred their insides. What insects can DE be used for? Diatomaceous Earth may be used as a barrier to control adult flea beetles, sawfly, coddling moth, twig borer, thrips, mites, cockroaches, slugs, snails and many other insects such as: Aphids, thrips, earwigs, silverfish, and ants. Can be used for bedbugs, cabbage root flies, carrot root flies, fleas, pillbugs, and ticks and is helpful in dealing with fungus gnats. Indoor and Outdoor Application: Sprinkle a light layer of DE in areas where pests frequent, including under stoves, cabinets, sinks, garbage cans, window and door frames and sills, entrance ways, sewer pipes and drains, and in cracks and crevices. Repeat treatment as needed. Carpet Beetles: Thoroughly dust along base-boards, carpet edges, under furniture, carpet,

and rugs, and in closets and shelving. Bedbugs: Take apart bed and dust joints and channels. Dust any hollow tubing and the interior framework as well as the mattress and all cracks in the room. Fleas: Thoroughly dust carpets and pet's bedding and sleeping areas, as well as cracks and baseboards. It also can be rubbed into your pet's fur. Flies: Thoroughly dust areas where flies frequent (walls, straw bedding, livestock pens). It also can be applied to livestock coat as an insect repellent/contact insecticide. Fly Larva: Keeps fly larvae from developing in manure, which makes a significant reduction in the fly population.

What is Diatomaceous Earth?...

Apri l 2011 “The Greene Thumb” Page 6

       

Calcium Ammonium Nitrate...A Possible Replacement for Ammonium Nitrate

Ammonium nitrate has long been used in fruit crops fertilization due in part to its high nitrogen content and relatively low cost in comparison to numerous other nitrogen sources. However, in many areas, ammonium nitrate is becoming more difficult, if not impossible, to get. This is due to its potential use as an oxidizing agent in the manufacture of certain types of explosives. New regulations for suppliers including having to fence off storage areas and installing video cameras to monitor activities in these areas have resulted in many suppliers deciding to not stock ammonium nitrate any longer. Calcium ammonium nitrate (CAN) may be used as a replacement for ammonium nitrate as it is almost as high in nitrogen content (27% vs. 34% for ammonium nitrate) and it cannot be used in the manufacture of explosives. The nitrogen component of CAN is comprised of equal amounts of the ammonium and the nitrate forms of nitrogen plus 20% ground limestone. Volatilization of the ammonium component is supposedly negligible, thus avoiding concerns about losses to the atmosphere when broadcast in warmer conditions. CAN has a near-neutral effect on soil pH, making it a good choice for use on crops grown in soils with a pH approaching the low end of the desired range. Since calcium ammonium nitrate contains less nitrogen than ammonium nitrate (27% vs. 34%), an adjustment in the amount of CAN is necessary to give the same amount of actual nitrogen as ammonium nitrate. Multiplying the ammonium nitrate rate by a factor of 1.25 will give the amount of CAN needed to apply to get the same amount of actual nitrogen. While the cost per pound of actual nitrogen for CAN may be higher than for ammonium, it is still less expensive than several other nitrogen fertilizers.

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Folks are curious when the next cicada emergence will be in their area. It will be either 13 or 17 years from their last visit and in the same areas. Oh, they might expand their area by less than a half mile in all directions each emergence, but that is me guessing. So, if you have not had them in the past 17 years, you will sleep fine. Brood X, 17 year, will return to DeKalb and Franklin Co in 2021, 2038, 2055; last there in 1987 & 2004. They will also visit Hickman, Wayne, Wilson, Lincoln, Hamilton, Sequatchie, Bledsoe, Rhea, Meigs, Polk, McMinn, Roane, Scott and the rest of E. Tenn.

Brood XIX, 13 year, visited parts of Middle Tennessee in 1985 and 1998. The Nashville TV news me-dia really played them nightly. They were extremely bad in the Nashville area near Vandy in 1998. A few emerge in parts of Warren and DeKalb counties, but I do not recall any issues. They were not bad in 1985 because of a drought. They will return in 2011, 2024, 2037, and 2050. Brood XIV, 17 year, was extreme-ly bad in the Irving College com-munity of Warren Co. and parts of Grundy Co. in 1991. They returned in 2008. They will return in 2025, 2042, and 2059. Several nurse-ries lost more than an estimated $10,000 each in 1991.

More details concerning this interesting insect that lives in the soil for either 13 or 17 years is available at the web site below. Learn when they will emerge in counties other than around Warren County. I wonder how their alarm clock works? http://www.utextension.utk.edu/publications/spfiles/SP341-F.pdf

Apples: Apply Copper for Fire Blight Control Copper applications at delayed dormant (up to 1/2 inch green tip) are effective in reducing fire blight bacteria on the wood surface. Include resistant varieties as well as susceptible in your spray, as the bacteria can be deposited on any surface by rain storms. Are you past the green tip stage? You can still apply copper without harm to the leaves if you don't exceed 0.6 lbs. metallic copper per 100 gallons. However, the chance of causing russet on the fruit increases the further you delay the copper application - Copper residues can still be present on the leaves when fruit form if there isn't sufficient rainfall to remove it, and could contact the fruit.

Maneb is no longer being manufactured, and EPA has revoked the tolerance on all food crops. As a result, you cannot use maneb even if you have material remaining.

Mancozeb (Dithane, Manzate, Penncozeb) was added to pumpkins, winter squash, and ginseng.

Cicadas...

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Area Gardening Events... April SAPS Program Margie Hunter, author of Gardening with the Native Plants of Tennessee: The Spirit of Place, will speak on “Native Plants Through the Seasons”, on Thursday, April 14, at 7 pm at Kingsport Renaissance Center, 1200 E. Center Street in Kingsport. In this presentation, Hunter will show how native plants, with their lovely flowers, colorful fruits, and intriguing forms can add interest and excitement to the landscape throughout the year, while also attracting wildlife to the garden. She will highlight many native species well suited to upper east Tennessee. Sponsored by Southern Appalachian Plant Society, the program is free and the public is invited. Copies of Margie's book will be available for purchase and signing. Margie Hunter is a gardener, environmentalist and nature enthusiast who shares her love of natives with plant and gardening groups in Tennessee and the Southeast and writes articles for Tennessee Conservationist magazine. A member of the Tennessee Native Plant Society, Tennessee Exotic Pest Plant Council, Southern Appalachian Botanical Society, and Perennial Plant Society of Middle Tennessee, Margie leads hikes at the Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage in Gatlinburg each April and is assisting development of the Tennessee Naturalist program. For more information, call 423-348-6572 or e-mail jnjmoore@embarqmail.com or see www.saps.us. Exchange Place Spring Garden Fair The 27th Exchange Place Spring Garden Fair will be held Saturday, April 30, from 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. and Sunday, May 1, from 12 - 5 p.m. at Exchange Place Living History Farm, 4812 Orebank Road in Kingsport, Tennessee. The Fair will feature thousands of plants for sale - perennials, annuals, trees and shrubs - with the emphasis on herbs, natives and heirloom plants (including a wide variety of heirloom tomatoes), along with garden related arts and crafts. The Fair is also an educational and family event that fills the grounds and buildings of the historic site, and gardening/farming experts will lead “Talks and Walks” and area Master Gardeners will be on hand to answer home gardening questions throughout the weekend. Heritage breeds of animals and the spring activities on a mid-1800’s farmstead will be featured as volunteers plow the fields with the Suffolk draft horses, shear the sheep, spin and weave the wool, cook over the hearth, and shape iron over the forge. Children's activities abound with garden crafts, farm animals and volunteers passing on the skills of gardening and farming to the younger generation. Ol' timey music and traditional foods add to the atmosphere. The Baaaa…ck Porch Sale will be filled with garden items, linens, pottery, furniture, doodads, izmos, and thingamadoodles. Proceeds from the Baaa...ck Porch Sale help feed the animals. The Fair strives to be as environmentally friendly as possible with recycling, composting, and re-using. Visitors are encouraged to bring their own plant carriers and to bring used nursery pots for recycling/reusing. Admission is $1 for adults and $.50 for children. For more information, call 423-288-6071. www.exchangeplace.info

Saturday, April 16th - PLANT AUCTION - Door opens at 8:15 am to view plants and register. Auction begins at 9:00 am. Sycamore Shoals State Park in the Auditorium. Call (423) 542-1818 or email wkhart@utk.edu for more information. Thursday, April 21st - Preparing the Summer Vegetable Garden 4:00 - 5:30 PM at the Greene Co. Extension office. $5 Registration Fee - Call 798-1710. Sat.-Sun., April 30 - May 1 Appalachian Craft Fair Join us for the 6th Annual Appalachian Craft Fair, showcasing local artisans and farmers. Handmade, traditional Appalachian style crafts includes flowers/herbs, stained glass, pottery and much more. Local food vendors will be on hand. Sat. April 30th 10 a.m. - 5 p.m., Sun. May 1st 10 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. EDT. For more information or to be consider as a craft or food vendor call (423) 257-2167 or email Dawn.Coleman@tn.gov. Thursday, May 19th - Identifying and Controlling Common Insects in the Landscape. 6:00 - 7:30 PM at the Greene Co. Extension office. $5 Registration Fee. Call 798-1710.

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Calendar of Events...

We’re on the Web!!

http://greene.tennessee.edu/

The University of Tennessee Extension is an off-campus division of the UT Institute of Agriculture. It is a statewide educational

organization, funded by federal, state and local governments, that

brings research-based information about agriculture, family and

consumer sciences, and resource development to the people of

Tennessee where they live and work.

Because Extension emphasizes helping people improve their

livelihood where they are located, most Tennesseans have contact

with UT Extension through their local county Extension agents found in each of the 95 counties. Extension agents are supported by

area and state faculty as well as by the educational and research

resources and activities of the United States Department of

Agriculture (USDA), 74 land-grant universities, and 3,150 county

units throughout the nation.

The stated mission of the system is to help people improve

their lives through an educational process that uses scientific

knowledge to address issues and needs.

“Growing Great Gardeners in Greene County!”

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Melody Rose, Extension Agent UT Extension, Greene County 204 North Cutler Street Suite 105 Greeneville, TN 37745 Phone: (423) 798-1710 Fax: (423) 798-1713 E-mail: mtrose@utk.edu

"A GreeneR WAY TO EAT"

Visit http://greene.tennessee.edu for more details on these and other calendar events.

Greeneville Farmers Market Vendor Registration for the 2011 Season Meeting

April 6, 2011 from 6:00pm – 8:00pm

Greene County Skills, Inc., 130 Bob Smith Blvd., Greeneville, TN 37745

All farmers who would like to sell their produce at the Farmers Market are

welcome to attend. Please call Judy Shelton if you need further infor-

mation: 423-367-9495 or email: GreenevilleFarmersMarket@gmail.com

Big Spring Master Gardeners at the Farmer’s Market: Programs will be 30 minutes and begin promptly at 10 AM

Sat., April 16th - “Getting Geared Up For The Garden” - An intro to basic soil management and growing strawberries in the home garden.

Sat., April 23rd - Q & A @ the Market with a Master Gardener

Sat., April 30th - “Growing Great Grapes” - Basic production and management practices.

Sat., May 7th - “Prepping The Veggie Garden” - Fundamentals of growing great vegetables.