application handbook · internal waterproofing of existing foundation 15 wall and slab ... faqs 27...

Overview

• Surface Preparation

• Application techniques

• Detailed Specifications

• FAQS

Application Handbook

Table of Contents

Surface Preparation

Repair of Surface 3-7

Removal of Contaminants 8-9

Mixing Procedure and General Application Procedure 10-11

Application Techniques

Brush Application 12

Roller Application 12

Trowel Application 12

Spray Application 12-13

Application Techniques for Different Concrete Structures

External waterproofing of concrete foundations 14

Internal waterproofing of existing foundation 15

wall and slab

Swimming pool lining 16

Tiled swimming pool 17

Fountain/Decorative water feature 18

Sewage tanks 19

Planter 20

Underground parking garage 21

Plaza deck 22

Concrete pipe 23

Construction joints 24

Expansion joints 25-26

FAQS 27

Contact Information 28

Surface Preparation: Repair of Surface

Surface preparation is an important step that should

be performed prior to Sealcrete application for this en-

hances the coating’s durability and adhesion. Proper

surface preparation also contributes to reduced mainte-

nance costs of the applied coating material.

Proper surface preparation generally comprises of

two major factors:

• Repair of Surface

• Removal of Surface Contaminants

Repair of Surface

The surface of the concrete should be in good condition

before applying Sealcrete. If repairs are not made prior

to application, premature failure is very likely to happen.

Weak joints, cracks, holes and other surface defects

must be properly repaired and filled before applying the

coating.

>> Repair of Broken Corners

Materials Needed:

• Repair mortar :mix Betonit Plus

with dry mixture of cement and

sand

• Pointing trowel

• Metal or wood float

Procedure:

1. Thoroughly clean and moisten the broken corner

before applying the mortar.

2. After the corner has been thoroughly cleaned, build

up the prepared mixture 1/4 “ at a time until it

reaches the same level as that of the original con-

crete. If the area to be repaired is quite large, use a

form to hold the applied mixture as it dries.

>>Repairing Hairline Cracks

Materials Needed:

• Repair mortar: mix water with Portland cement. For

better results, use Betonit Plus instead of water

• Putty knife or pointing trowel

• Plastic sheet

Procedure:

1. Moisten concrete along the hairline crack for sev-

eral hours before adding the prepared mortar. How-

ever, there should be no standing water when the

grout is applied.

2. After moistening and cleaning the crack, apply the

mortar with a putty knife or pointing trowel. Force

the mixture into the crack as much as possible.

Then, smooth it off so its is level with the surface of

the original concrete.

3. Allow the patched crack to cure for two (2) hours

before covering it with a plastic sheet.

4. Keep the repaired area covered for five (5) days.

Lift the cover each day and sprinkle the area with

water.

.

Moistening the concrete helps avoid premature drying of

the repair mortar once it is applied for it prevents the

concrete from absorbing water from the mixture.


>>Repairing Cracks larger than Hairline Cracks

Cracks greater than 1/8” must be properly

patched before applying the coating.

Materials Needed:

• Mortar patch: mix water with a dry mixture of

1 part Portland cement and 3 parts of sand.

For better results, use Betonit Plus instead

of water.

• Concrete Adhesive (Betonit Plus)

• Hammer

• Chisel

• Paintbrush

• Tire pump/ garden hose

• Steel Brush


For flat surfaces to be exposed to light weight

loads (i.e. sidewalks)

Procedure:

1. Enlarge the crack along its

entire length using a cold

chisel and hammer.

2. Make the crack wider at

the bottom than at the

top. This is known as undercutting or making

a “dovetail groove.” This helps bond the new

concrete with the old concrete.

3. After the undercut has been made, remove

all loose material and brush the area with a

wire brush.

4. Use a garden hose or a tire pump to wash

away the dust in the crack.

5. Brush on the concrete adhesive (Betonit

Plus) into the dovetail

groove and allow it dry

until it becomes tacky. If

one does not intend to

use cement adhesive,

thoroughly brush and

soak the area with clean

water. However, there should be no stand-

ing water on the area to be repaired.

6. Tamp the mortar mix into the undercut area

as tightly as possible. Be sure to completely

fill all the areas.

7. When the patch begins

to set, smooth it with

either a metal trowel

for a smooth finish or

wood float for a rough

finish.

8. Allow the patched crack to cure for two (2)

hours before covering it with a plastic sheet.

9. Keep the repaired area covered for five (5)

days. Lift the cover each day and sprinkle the

area with water.

For flat surfaces to be exposed to heavy weight

loads (i.e. concrete driveways)

Materials Needed:

• Mortar patch: Mix sufficient water to a dry

mixture consisting of 1 part Portland cement,

2 parts sand and 3 parts gravel. For better

results mix 1 part of water to 1 part Betonit

Plus


• Hammer

• Chisel


• Paintbrush


• Steel Brush


Procedure:

1. Thoroughly clean and then undercut the crack. Un-

dercut the cracked area to a greater depth and

make the cracks considerably wide and deep.

2. Brush cement adhesive (Betonit Plus) to the un-

dercut area.

3. Tamp the mortar mix into the undercut area as

tightly as possible. Be sure to completely fill all the

areas.

4. When the patch begins to set, smooth it with either

a metal trowel for a smooth finish or wood float for a

rough finish

5. Keep the repaired area covered for five (5) days. Lift

the cover each day and sprinkle the area with water.

6. Do not expose the patched area to any load for five

(5) days.

>> Repairing Cracks and Holes in Concrete Walls

Materials Needed:

• Mortar patch: Mix sufficient water to a dry mixture

consisting of 1 part Portland cement, 2 parts sand

and 3 parts gravel. For better results mix 1 part of

water to 1 part of Betonit Plus.


• Hammer

• Chisel

• Paintbrush


• Steel Brush


Procedure:

1. Cut the cracked area in dovetail fashion by using

cold chisel and hammer. The width and depth of the

undercut depends on the size of

the crack.

2. Chip away all loose material and

then thoroughly clean the under-

cut area by means of stiff wire

brush. Do not brush the area

enough to smooth the edges for

the rough edges can aid in

bonding the mortar patch to the

old concrete.

3. Moisten the surface then apply

cement adhesive (Betonit Plus)

to the area with a brush. If one

does not intend to use cement adhesive, use a mix-

ture Portland cement and water as substitute.

4. Force the mixture into the undercut area by means

of a pointing trowel. Make sure to force the mortar

into all the areas of the crack/hole.

5. To conceal the patch, try using

an old broom, a float, or any

other tool to create the desired

rough finish while the patch is

still workable.

Next page


6. For both repaired cracks and holes, allow to

cure for two (2) hours before covering with a

plastic sheet.

7. Keep the repaired area covered for five (5)

days. Lift the cover each day and sprinkle the

area with water.

For leaky concrete walls or walls exposed to hy-

drostatic pressure (i.e. basement walls):

• If water is merely seeping through the wall,

repair cracks and holes by following the tech-

niques given in the previous section (see page 5).

• However if water is entering under pressure,

one may have to install a weep pipe by following

the procedure below.

Materials Needed:

• Patching mortar: Mix water with dry mixture

of Portland cement and 3 parts sand. For bet-

ter results, use 1 part Betonit Plus and 1

part water.

• Weep pipe

• Pointing trowel

• Metal float

Procedure:

1. Insert the weep pipe

at the point where the

wall and the floor join or

at the point where the

pressure is greatest.

2. Use regular patching mortar to fill the crack, starting

at the top and working toward the bottom. This per-

mits a more secure bonding of the new mortar.

3. Use an ordinary pointing trowel. Completely fill the

crack with mortar to where the weep pipe is in-

stalled. Let the mortar set until it is completely dry.

• If the water entering through the weep pipe has

slowed to a trickle, you can probably remove the

pipe, fill the hole and eliminate the problem.

• However, if water is still coming through the pipe

with considerable force, leave the weep pipe in

place and run the water into a sewer drain with a

hose.

4. If it is decided to remove the pipe and patch the

hole, treat the cracked area

right down to the spot where

the wall and the floor come

together.

5. Next, make a cement plug

from the mortar mix. Roll the

plug into a cone shape that is

slightly larger than the hole.

6. Roll the plug of cement in

one’s hands until it begins to

stiffen. Then place the small

end of the cone-like plug in

the hole where the pipe was

removed and tamp it into

place.

7. Hold the cement plug in place

with one’s fingers for 3 to 5

minutes, allowing it time to set. Place a heavy ob-

ject over the plug during this 3 to 5 minute period to

give it plenty of time to dry before it is exposed to

the full water pressure.

From previous page

stalled. Let the mortar set until it is completely dry.


8. After 3 to 5 minutes, remove one’s hand or the ob-

ject holding the plug in place. By this time, the mor-

tar plug should be dried sufficiently to close off the

hole and prevent outside water from entering.

>>Patching Holes in Flat Surfaces

Materials Needed:

• Patching mortar: For shallow holes, mix water with

dry mixture of 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. For

better results, mix 1 part of Betonit EzyPlast to 1

part of water

• Pointing trowel or metal float

• Steel brush/stiff bristle brush

• Fine-bristled brush

Procedure:

1. Clean the hole with a wire brush to remove small

pieces of loose concrete.

2. After using the wire brush on the damaged area,

use a lighter brush to remove the loose particles

that were dislodged by the wire brush. Then, wash

the area to be repaired with a garden hose.

3. Apply the patching mortar

1/4” at a time until it

reaches the same level as

the original concrete.

Then, smooth out the area

with a trowel or float.

Where is the water coming

from?

To determine if the source of water is from the outside (seepage) or the inside (condensation), tape a twelve-inch square of aluminum foil to a wall that is prone to damp-ness. Make sure to make all sides as airtight as possible. After 2 days, if the side of the foil that was against the wall is wet, the problem is seepage. If the outside is wet, it's condensation.

Surface Preparation: Removal of Contaminants

The concrete surface should be free of contami-

nants such as dust, chalk, mildew and grease.

For previously painted concrete surfaces, make

sure to remove the old paint and coating as this

may affect the adhesion of Sealcrete to the sur-

face

Following are cleaning methods that are appropri-

ate for certain types of contaminants.

Detergent Washing

Effective in removing: chalk, soil and mildew

Cleaning Tools: brush, rag, spray

Procedure:

• To remove soil and chalk, use a solution

comprising of 4 ounces of trisodium phos-

phate, 1 ounce household detergent, and 4

quarts of water.

• To remove mildew, use a solution made by

adding 1 part of 5% hypochlorite solution

(household bleach) to 3 parts of cleaning so-

lution used to remove soil and chalk. If there

is little or no existing chalk is on the surface,

do not include trisodium phosphate (TSP) in

the solution. Do not add household bleach to

solution containing ammonia and other simi-

lar chemical products. Toxic fumes are ex-

pected to be produced.

• Rinse surface thoroughly with water to re-move the soapy alkaline residues.

Others: The pH of fresh rinse water and the sub-strate should be roughly equivalent.

Hand Cleaning

Effective in removing: loosely adhering paints

and coatings

Cleaning Tools: wire brushes, scrapers, abrasive

pads, chisels, knives and chipping hammers

• Recommended for spot cleaning and areas

inaccessible to power tools.

• Not recommended for cleaning large con-

crete surfaces.

Acid Washing

Effective in removing: efflorescence and laitance

from concrete; could be used for etching concrete

Cleaning Tools :

• If heavy efflorescence and laitance exist on

the concrete surface, hand cleaning (or dry

brushing) must be first performed before acid

washing to prevent dissolution of the efflores-

cence and subsequent movement of the salts

into the concrete.

• Prior to application of an acid solution, heavy

oil, grease, and soil deposits must also be re-

moved. Oily dirty deposits can be removed by

solvent or detergent washing.

Procedure:

1. Thoroughly wet the surface with clean water.

2. Uniformly apply acid solution (5 to 10% muri-

atic acid or phosphoric acid on the surface.

3. Scrub the surface with stiff bristle brush and

then immediately rinse the surface with clean

water. pH of fresh rinse water and the sub-

strate should be roughly equivalent.

Surface Preparation: Removal of Contaminants 4. Work should be done on small areas (<4ft

2).

Steam Cleaning

Effective in removing: grease, oil and heavy dirt

Cleaning Tools : Portable steam cleaning unit (capable

of high-pressure jet of steam about 300 deg F, 150 psi);

alkaline cleaning compounds to be mixed with water

Procedure:

• The steam is directed through a cleaning gun

against the surface to be cleaned. The pressure is

adjusted to minimize spraying time.

• Any alkaline residue remaining on the surface after

the cleaning operation must be removed by thor-

ough rinsing with fresh water.

• Worker safety must carefully be observed when

performing this method.

Water Blasting

Effective in removing: loose paints, dirt, mildew and

chalk

Cleaning Tools : Water blasting unit equipped with an

engine-driven pump, inlet water filter, pressure gauge,

hydraulic hose, gun and nozzle combination.

Nozzle orifices are either round or flat. Flat orifices are

usually used on large flat areas.

Procedure:

• Water blast cleaning uses a high-pressure water

stream to remove lightly adhering surface contami-

nants. Selection of water pressure (low pressure ~

2000 psi) and temperature and addition of a deter-

gent depend on the type of cleaning desired.

• Nozzles should be held about 3 inches from the

surface for most effective cleaning.

Abrasive Blasting

Recommended for: preparing (roughening) of concrete

and masonry surfaces; removing old waterproofing

coatings such as elastomeric and aphalt (removing

loose particles after blasting is required)

• Types of abrasive blasting are: air (conventional),

wet, vacuum and

• Centrifugal blasting is often used for concrete sur-

faces.

• A common abrasive used for concrete surfaces is

silica sand. However, due to health purposes the

use of this abrasive material is minimized.

Mixing Procedure & General Application Procedure

Mixing

After the surface has been prepared, Sealcrete is

ready to be mixed. The product consists of two

components: liquid (component A) and solid

(component B). Follow the following steps in pre-

paring and mixing the product.

1. Shake the Component A (liquid component)

very well. Prepare a clean non-absorptive (i.e.

plastic) container for mixing.

2. Add Component B (powder component) to

component A. Mix the two components until a

smooth consistency is achieved.

For effective and uniform mixing, use a portable mechanical mixer.

Application

May be applied using brush, trowel or appropriate

compressed-air equipment.

1. Dampen the surface with clean water

before applying the product. The surface

should remain damp throughout the ap-

plication to avoid premature drying.

However, DO NOT saturate the sub-

strate. Standing water should not be

present on the surface upon application.

2. Apply two 2-3 layers of

SEALCRETE to achieve 1-

mm thickness. Apply the

first coat in an even con-

tinuous layer, stroking in

one direction only. Once the previous layer

has sufficiently hardened, apply a second

layer stroking crosswise/perpendicular to

the previous layer. If second layer is to be

applied after 24 hours, make sure to dampen

the first layer.

3. In active construction sites, protect the ap-

plied SEALCRETE from contaminants and

damage with a plastic sheet or alternative.

4. Allow the product to cure as specified below

before exposing it to the following elements

and activities:

• Tile mortar and tiles : after approxi-

mately one (1) day

• Backfilling : after approximately three

(3) days at 20 degrees Celcius and

not less than 50% relative humidity

• Protection boards and concrete top-

ping : after approximately three (3)

days

• Hydrostatic pressure : approximately

7 days

6. Product should not be applied during extreme

weather conditions.

Coverage Rate: 4 kg of SEALCRETE may cover approximately 2 sq.m. for 2 layers of application. Actual coverage rate may vary depending on the texture and porosity of the substrate.

Open Time: 1 hour

Pot Life: 3 hours


Sealcrete may be applied by brush, roller, trowel or with

an appropriate compressed-air equipment.

Brush Application

Effective for: applying to small areas, edges and corners

Tools: paintbrush, tampico brush, push

broom

By Hand brush:

1. Apply the coating by means of a 6-in masonry or

tampico brush.

2. Load bristles with the product and lay on a heavy

coat using long and smooth strokes.

3. Apply sufficient material to make sure to fill all the

voids.

4. To produce an even texture and finish,

apply final strokes in one direction.

5. Allow the first coat to sufficiently harden before applying the consecutive perpendicular coat.

By Push broom:

1. Use a pail or a wide-mouth container large enough

to hold the waterproofing mixture.

2. Dip a 10-inch tampico push broom into the water-

proofing mix just enough to load the bristles.

3. Lay on a heavy coat using long and smooth strokes.

4. Apply sufficient material to make sure to fill all the

voids.

5. To produce an even texture and finish, apply final

strokes in one direction.

6. Allow the first coat to sufficiently harden before ap-

•

• Brushing Tips

• Shake loose any unattached brush

bristles by spinning the brush be-

tween the palms of the hand and

remove the loose bristles.

• Dip the brush to cover one-half of

the bristle length with the material.

Remove excess material on the

brush by gently tapping it against

the side of the container.

• Hold the brush at an angle of about

75 degrees to the surface. Make

several light strokes to transfer the

coating to the surface. Spread the

coating evenly and uniformly.

• Apply coating to a surface adjacent

to the freshly coated surface

sweeping the brush into the “wet

edge” of the treated surface. This

helps to eliminate lap marks and

provides a more even coating film.


plying the consecutive perpendicular coat. Do not

over-brush the substrate.

Roller Application

Effective for: large areas an high sur-

faces

Tools: fiber roller or foam roller, tray

1. Slightly dampen the substrate.

2. Half-fill the roller ray with Sealcrete.

3. Immerse the roller completely into the mixture

and remove the excess by moving the roller

back on the tray or grid. Skidding or tracking

may occur if the roller is loaded with too

much material.

4. Apply the coating to the surface by means of

long and smooth strokes. Avoid letting the

roller spin at the end of a stroke. Always work

from a dry adjacent surface to a wet surface.

The wet edge should be prevented from dry-

ing to minimize lap marks. To produce an

even texture and finish, apply final strokes in

one direction.

5. Make sure to apply sufficient material to com-

pletely fill the voids.

6. Make sure to clean roller in between coats to

prevent material build-up. Make sure the

roller is not dripping wet after washing.

7. Allow the first coat to sufficiently harden be-

fore applying the consecutive coat.

Trowel Application

Tool : steel/plastic trowel

• Alternative mode of apply-

ing the second coat on top

of the sufficiently hardened

first coat applied by either brush or roller.

• Hold the trowel at angle of 45 degrees to the

surface to achieve relatively uniform thick-

ness.

Spray Application

Effective for: large areas with less required work-

ing time .

Tools: air compressor, hoses, hopper-type mortar

gun

NOTE: clogging could occur due to material con-

sistency and build-up

• Keep the spray gun at right angle with the

wrist to avoid non-uniform coating thickness.

• Each stroke should overlap the previous

stroke by 50%. Stroke length should be from

18 to 36 inches depending on the worker’s

comfort.

• Distance must be maintained between the

spray gun and the surface and may range

from 6 to 12 inches depending on the atomi-

zation pressure. If spray gun is held too

close, heavy material application could occur

while if it is held too far away dry spraying


Proper Spray Patterns:

Problem Cause Solution

Thick center; thin ends;

pinholes

Atomizing air

pressure too low;

too much fluid to

gun

Increase air

pressure; de-

crease fluid

pressure or

use smaller

nozzle

Hourglass shape; dry

spray on ends

Fluid pressure low; air

pressure too high

Increase fluid

pressure; de-

crease air

pressure; ad-

just pattern

control

Teardrop shape; thicker

at bottom

Problem with gun: nick in

needle seat; partially

clogged orifice or slightly

bent needle or loose noz-

zle

Remove and

clean air noz-

zle; replace

bent parts or

tighten air

nozzle.

“Boomerang”

Dried material has clogged

one of the side port holes

of the air nozzle

Remove and

clean nozzle;

do not probe

nozzle with

metal devices

Spray Troubleshooting Tips may occur.

• Make sure to clean the nozzle as soon

as the work is finished to avoid clog-

ging.

Application Procedure Based on Type of Structure

EXTERNAL WATERPROOFING OF CMU OR CONCRETE FOUNDATIONS

1. Seal exterior horizontal wall-floor joints with a joint sealing tape. Alternative: form cove of mortar plug at

wall/slab joint.

2. Apply SEALCRETE to walls at 1/16” [60 mils] (1.5mm) in one coat by trowel or spray. Alternatively apply

in two brush coats to 1/16” thickness. Smooth with a trowel if desired.

3. If desired, embed joint fabric tape into 1st coat of SEALCRETE using a steel trowel. Cover with 2nd coat of

SEALCRETE

4. Install protection boards or drain mats before backfilling.

Note: In areas with poor drainage or where high hydrostatic pressures are anticipated, increase total appli-

cation rate of SEALCRETE (2 mm)


INTERNAL WATERPROOFING OF EXISTING FOUNDATION WALL & SLAB

1. Walls and slab: apply SEALCRETE at 2 mm in one coat by trowel or spray. Alternatively apply in two brush

coats to 2 mm thickness. Smooth with a trowel if desired.

2. For basements being converted to offices or habitable areas that will receive carpeting, VCT, hardwood floor-

ing, etc. install vapor and moisture emission barrier in lieu of SEALCRETE if vapor emission exceeds 1 perm.


WATERPROOFING OF SWIMMING POOL LINING

1. Apply SEALCRETE to interior pool surfaces in 2 coats at a total thickness of 2 mm

Consult Detail “A” for installation of ceramic tile trim at water level. Consult detail “B” for treat-

ment of wall corner joints of cast in place concrete pools.

Ceramic Tile

SEALCRETE

SEALCRETE


WATERPROOFING OF TILED SWIMMING POOL

1. Apply SEALCRETE to interior pool surfaces in 2 coats at a total thickness of 2 mm.

2. Apply thin set tile mortar (Betonit Tile Adhesive) over SEALCRETE.

3. Install ceramic tiles and fill joints with Betonit Tile Grout.

SEALCRETE


WATERPROOFING OF FOUNTAIN / DECORATIVE WATER FEATURE

1. Install cove with mortar plug (A) at wall/slab joints. Where movement is expected install joint tape (B).

2. For water levels < 2’ (0.6 m) apply SEALCRETE to walls and slabs at 1.5 mm. For water levels >

2’ (0.6 m) apply SEALCRETE to walls and slabs at 2 mm.

A B


WATERPROOFING OF SEWAGE TANKS

1. Install cove with mortar plug (A) at wall/slab joints. Alternatively, install a joint sealing tape (B).

2. Apply SEALCRETE to walls and slabs at 2 mm.

A B


WATERPROOFING OF PLANTER

1. Apply SEALCRETE at 1.5 mm in one coat by trowel. Alternatively apply in two brush coats to 2

mm thickness. Smooth with a trowel if desired.

2. Install joint sealing tape at cold joints (the intersection between the end of one concrete pour and

the beginning of a new pour.

3. Cracks must be covered with mortar plug beforehand or may be covered with fabric designed for

this purpose.


WATERPROOFING OF UNDERGROUND PARKING GARAGE

1. Seal wall-floor and construction joints with joint sealing tape.

2. Apply SEALCRETE to walls and slab 2 mm in two coats by trowel or spray. If desired, embed fabric into 1st

coat of SEALCRETE using a steel trowel then cover with 2nd coat of the waterproofing material.

3. Install drain mat, root protection and planting system according to specifications.


WATERPROOFING OF PLAZA DECK

1. Seal cracks with joint sealing tape or according to repair techniques detailed on Surface Prepara-

tion section.

2. Apply 1st coat SEALCRETE at 1 mm thickness.

3. Immediately embed fabric into fresh (wet) SEALCRETE, insuring full saturation.

4. Apply 2nd coat SEALCRETE at 1.2 mm thickness after 1st coat has sufficiently hardened.

5. Install protection board/drain mat after applied waterproofing after 3 days.

6. Pour topping slab.

Fabric Joint Sealing Tape

SEALCRETE


SEALING AROUND CONCRETE PIPES

Apply SEALCRETE

waterproofing,

extending at least 4" (10 cm) onto pipe

Concrete Pipe


WATERPROOFING OF CONSTRUCTION JOINTS

1. Apply 1st coat of SEALCRETE, extending min. 3/4” (20 mm) beyond either side of tape.

2. Embed a joint sealing tape uniformly into 1st coat of SEALCRETE, leaving no wrinkles.

3. Cover the joint sealing tape with 2nd coat of SEALCRETE (same or next day) and smooth the sur-

face with a damp brush.

SEALCRETE Joint Sealing Tape


WATERPROOFING OF EXPANSION JOINTS

Expansion joint sealed with one tape

Version 1:

Expansion joint sealed with one tape and caulk

Version 2:


2. Embed a joint sealing tape uniformly into 1st coat of SEALCRETE, leaving no wrinkles. Allow sufficient slack to

accommodate joint movement.

3. Cover the joint sealing tape with 2nd coat of SEALCRETE, stopping at joint edge, and smooth the surface with

a damp brush. For version 2, fill void with caulk.

SEALCRETE Joint Sealing

SEALCRETE Joint Sealing


Wall/floor expansion joint sealed with one tape


2. Embed a joint sealing tape uniformly into 1st coat of SEALCRETE, leaving no wrinkles. Allow suf-

ficient slack to accommodate joint movement.

3. Cover the joint sealing tape with 2nd coat of SEALCRETE , stopping at joint edge, and smooth the

surface with a damp brush.

Joint Sealing Tape

SEALCRETE

FAQS

Do I need anything else on top of the waterproofing?

Protection boards and concrete topping may be attached on top of applied SEALCRETE which has at least cured for 3 days.

(see page 22 )

What waterproofing products can be both used for positive and negative waterproofing?

There are 4 common types of waterproofing systems used for positive-side waterproofing: cementitious, fluid-applied, sheet

membrane & clay. Negative systems are limited to cementitious systems.

Do I have to remove the old waterproofing coating (elastomeric and asphalt) before applying Sealcrete?

Yes, old waterproofing coatings like elastomeric and asphalt should be removed by abrasive blasting prior to Sealcrete applica-

tion. (see page 9)

Is your product just for new constructions?

No, SEALCRETE can also be used for renovation projects. Just make sure to thoroughly repair and clean the surface of the

existing structure before applying SEALCRETE.

Do I have to remove the old paint from the wall before applying your product?

Yes, old paints and coatings must be removed before applying SEALCRETE for these may affect the adhesion of the product to

the surface that will be treated. One can remove these existing paints and coatings by power washing or abrasive blasting.

(see pages 8 & 9)

Can SEALCRETE be applied directly to a leaky basement wall?

The source of leak must first be detected and repaired thoroughly and properly before applying SEALCRETE.(see pages 6 to 7)

Can SEALCRETE be painted over?

SEALCRETE can be painted over with a “breathable” (vapor open), solvent-free paint after the application has fully cured (after

3 days). We recommend the use of Altamira Mineral Paints.

Can SEALCRETE be tinted?

SEALCRETE can be tinted or pigmented. However, uniformity of color is not guaranteed. We recommend the use of Altamira

Mineral Paints.

Can SEALCRETE be used on wood and hardiflex?

SEALCRETE is only recommended for concrete surfaces.

Betonit Products Philippines, Inc. 17 Francisco St., North Susana Village, Commonwealth Avenue, Quezon City Phone: (02)932-8806/ (02) 931-3822 Fax: (02) 932-3726 www.betonitproducts.com

STATEMENT OF RESPONSIBILITY

The technical information and application advice given in this Betonit

Products Philippines Inc. publication are based on the present state of our

best and practical knowledge. As the information herein is of a general

nature, no assumption can be made as to a product’s suitability for a

particular use or application and no warranty as to its accuracy, reliability

or completeness either expressed or implied is given other than those

required by law. The user is responsible for checking the suitability of

products for their intended use.

NOTE

Field service where provided does not constitute supervisory responsibility.

Suggestions made by Betonit Products Philippines Inc. either orally or in

writing may be followed, modified or rejected by the owner, engineer or

contractor since they, and not Betonit Products Philippines Inc., are

responsible for carrying out procedures appropriate to specific application.

application handbook · internal waterproofing of existing foundation 15 wall and slab ... faqs 27...

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