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Apparel-Merchandising

Job lists of a Merchandiser after negotiate the order. Learn Apparel Merchandising He has to schedule the following main process to execute the export order perfectly on time. 1. Fabric requirement calculations. 2. Accessories requirement calculation. Such as – Sewing thread, Button, Label, Poly bag, Carton etc. 3. Sourcing of Fabrics. 4. Confirm the possible date of arrival of fabrics & accessories in the garments factory. 5. Garments Production Planning. 6. Pre shipment inspection schedule. 7. Shipping documents. All the main functions, mentioned above are important but the procurement of fabric & accessories are most important as because there are many technical parameters involved in specification in this area. In most collection of fabric for the garments to be made is a major problem. To procure a fabric we should clearly specify the technical specification of the fabric during placing a fabric supply order. Regards Bipul

You might also like: Machine Wise Sewing Operation (knit Items) Introduction to fully fashioned knitwear (Part 06) Making process of a Sweater Zipper Measurement.

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Apparel-Merchandising Fabric Knitting Cost/price

Learn Apparel Merchandising.

Knitting price of circular knit fabric.

Dear All,

Hope all of you are fine.

Today I'm posting a price list of circular knit fabric in total 63 option. I collect this price list from a very large knitting factory which is situated at Jamirdia, Masterbari, Valuka, Mymensingh, Bangladesh. It's name NRG. All the prices of this list in Bangladeshi taka (per kg). You can easily convert it to US$ dollar by dividing with 72 to 75. Because current dollar conversion rate is moving in between 72 to 75 taka. That's mean US $1 = 72 taka. Pls e-mail me if you are still unclear. Thanks.

Sl. No. Fabric Type Machine

Gauge Yarn Count

Knitting charge Per Kg in Taka

1 Single Jersey (M/C Dia 19-38) 24 20/s-30/s 10 2 Single Jersey (M/C Dia 40-48) 24 20/s-30/s 11 3 Single Jersey 28 26/s-30/s 13 4 Single Jersey 24 34/s-40/s 14-16 5 Single Jersey 20 16/s-18/s 16-25 6 Single Jersey Slub Yarn 24

15-20

7 Single Jersey Slub Yarn 20

18-20 8 S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 18-40) 24

20-30

9 S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 42-48) 24

28-30 10 S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 18-40) 20

25-30

11 S/J D/Yarn F/ Stripe(M/C Dia 42-48) 20

35-40 12 Heavy Jersey (2 ply) 20 40/2-26/2 15-18 13 Half Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24 30/s-40/s 22-24

14 H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) 24

30-35

15 H.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 24

40-45

16 Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24/28 30/s-34/s 28 17 Full Feeder Lycra S/Jersey 24/28 36/s-40/s 30

18 F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) 24

38-40

19 F.F.Lycra S/J Yarn Dyed Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 24

48-50

20 P.K / Lacost 24 30/s-24/s 15 21 P.K / Lacost 20 30/s-20/s 18 22 P.K / Lacost 28 34/s-26/s 20 23 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) 24

25-30

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24 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 18-40) 20

30-35 25 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 24

30-40

26 P.K F/Stripe (M/C Dia 42-48) 20

45-50 27 1X1 Normal RIB 18 30/s-20/s 15 28 1X1 Normal RIB 18 32/s-36/s 18 29 Yarn Dyed (1X1) Stripe Rib 18 30/s-20/s 25-30 30 Lycra RIB (Half Feeder) 18 30/s-26/s 25-30 31 Lycra RIB (Full Feeder) 18 30/s-40/s 35-40 32 (2X1) RIB 18 30/s-20/s 25-28 33 (2X2) RIB 18 30/s-20/s 28-30 34 (2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib 18 30/s-24/s 35 35 (2X1) H. Feeder Lycra Rib 18 30/s-24/s 45 36 Plain Interlock 22/24 UP TO 32/s 18 37 Plain Interlock 22/24 34/s-40/s 20 38 Plain Interlock 28 40/s-50/s 28-36 39 Interlock Feeder Stripe 24

35-40

40 Interlock H.F Ly. Attachement 24

35-40 41 Interlock D / Needle 24 30/s-40/s 25-30 42 Mash/Flat Back Rib

60-80 43 Three Thread Fleece (French Terry)

18 44 Cross Terry

20-22 45 Three Thread Lycra Fleece ( French Terry)

35-40 46 Two Thread Fleece

20-22 47 Two Thread Lycra Terry

35-40 48 Engineering Stripe (4 Color) S/J 24

100-110

49 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) S/J 24

120-130 50 Engineering Stripe 2Ply 20

130-150

51 Engineering Stripe 2Ply 16

160-170 52 Engineering Stripe (4 Color) P.K/Lacost 24

120-125

53 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) P.K/Lacost 24

130-140

54 Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (H/ Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K) 24

220-230

55 Eng. Stripe (4&6 Color) (F/ Feeder Lycra S/J.P.K) 24

240-250

56 Eng. Stripe Flat Back Rib 300

57 Eng. Stripe Terry 24/20

180-220 58 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) RIB

170-180 59 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) Interlock

180-190

60 Engineering Stripe (6 Color) Lycra RIB / Interlock

250-300

61 Engineering Stripe 2X1 F. Feeder Lycra Rib 350-400

62 Engineering Stripe 2X1 H. Feeder Lycra Rib

350

63 Pointal Rib (Normal) 70-100

Apparel-Merchandising Calculate the CM of a Garment.

Dear All,

My this post for these people, who's are still confused regarding the CM (cost of making) of a knit items (garments). To find out the CM of a item you must need the following 06 (six) information at first, as listed below:

i) Monthly total expenditure of your factory with factory rent, commercial cost, electricity bill, water bill, transportation, repairing, worker & stuff wages etc. (8hrs/day) in bangla taka. Suppose - 50,00,000/- tk ii) Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month (which total expenditure we have consider here). Suppose - 100 machines iii) Number of machine to complete the layout for the following Items (which CM we are calculating). Suppose - 25 machines iv) Production target/capacity of the following items, per hour from the existing layout, excluding alter & reject. Suppose - 200 pcs per hour v) Total working day of the followings month,(though the house rent,commercial expenses,machine overhauling & some other cost remain same)Suppose- 26 days. vi) If you want to calculate the CM in US$ (dollar) then pls input present dollar conversation rate BDTk. Suppose - $1 = 74 taka. COST OF MAKING (CM) = {(Monthly total expenditure of the following factory / 26) / (Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month) X (Number of machine to complete the layout)} / [{(Production capacity per hr from the existing layout, excluding alter & reject) X 8}] X 12 / (Dollar conversion rate) = [{(50,00,000 / 26) / ( 100 ) X (25)} / {(200) X 8}] X 12 / 74 = [{192307.7 / (100) X (25) } / 1600] X 12 / 74 = (48,076.9 / 1600) X 12 / 74 = 30.048 X 12 / 74 = 360.58 / 74 = $4.873 / dozen (this is the making cost (12 pcs) of the following items) However, normally at present (after starting the new salary scale) in Bangladesh we calculate the CM of any item consider the overhead sewing machine cost 1200 tk to 1400 tk/day that means $16.216 to $18.92/per day. Above is for a non-compliance factory. For the a compliance factory the per day machine cost will be 1800 tk to 2100 tk ( $24.32 to $28.37) SO, if the an items produce 1600 pcs per day using 25 machines then the CM will be = Overhead machine cost X require machine / produce quantity X 12 / $74 = 1400 X 25 / 1600 X 12 / 74 = $3.547/DOZ

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Apparel-Merchandising How we produce Yarn from cotton? Dear all, The yarn making process is a very complicated process. So many things are related with this yarn producing process. Moreover, various kinds of yarn are producing everyday all over the world.

These yarns can be divided by the types of raw materials which we used for making the yarn. Such as-

• 100% cotton yarn. • CVC yarn (In this type of yarn the combination of cotton of polyester can be varied depending on the buyer requirement. such as - 65% cotton + 35% polyester, 60% cotton + 40% Polyester etc. Also mainly in this type of yarn the cotton part is always remain greater than the Polyester). CVC mean cheap value cotton. • 100% polyester yarn. • PC yarn (In this type of yarn the cotton part is always remain less than the Polyester). PC means Polyester cotton. • 100% Viscose yarn. • Grey Mélange yarn. In this type yarn we used a mixer of cotton & viscose. The percentage of cotton & viscose may vary depends on the requirement of buyer. Such as - 85% cotton + 15% viscose (Dark Grey Mélange), 90% cotton + 10% viscose (Grey Mélange), 95% cotton + 5% viscose ( Light Grey Mélange), 98% cotton + 2% viscose (Ecru Mélange) etc. Please note that if we increase the percentage of viscose then the yarn shade also will become dark accordingly. The percentage also can be 80% cotton + 20% viscose. So, if your buyer asked you for Grey mélange fabric then you must confirm it from them that, which percentage of viscose actually they looking for. The yarn price of Grey Mélange is higher than normal cotton yarn. Please always be aware about one thing that, the fabric which knitted by grey mélange yarn is not need to dyeing. Also fabric properties of cotton & grey mélange are almost same. So, we can used same care instruction for both (cotton & g.melange) type of fabric.

Other than these, many more kinds of yarn are producing in this textile world. Such as Bamboo yarn, Organic cotton yarn etc.

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We can also separate the yarn by their finishing quality: • Combed Yarn • Carded Yarn • Rotor Yarn • Slav yarn

Yarn is also labeled by their thickness. The unit of this is count. The count number of yarn will increase according to the reduce of yarn thickness. Yarn price also increase according to increased of count number. 40 count yarns are thinner than the 36 count yarn. Some common yarn count:

20 count, 22 count, 24 count, 26 count, 28 count, 30 count, 32 count, 34 count, 36 count, 40 count. Normally we used these yarn counts for knit fabrics. Few days ago I visited a spinning factory to let it know that, how the yarn is producing from cotton. This spinning factory only produced 100% cotton carded yarn. Here, I will describe you the yarn producing process step by step with image and video. Thanks!

Please find below a flow chart for 100% cotton carded yarn.

Ø 1st Step: For producing the yarn at first we need to setup a spinning factory. The production capacity of this spinning factory will be depends on our requirement.

Ø 2nd Step: Cotton purchasing by import or from local market. Then store the cotton separately based on its origin, quality & fiber length etc.

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Ø 3rd Step: Blow room section – In this section the cotton goes under several treatment or operations. Such as- Fiber opening, Cleaning, Dust Removal, Blending etc.

Ø 4th Step: Carding section – After end of the blow room process the cotton comes in the carding section. The cotton comes automatically in these carding machines by pipe. A spinning factory has several carding machine. Two proverbs of the experts - "the carding is the heart of the spinning mill" and "well carded is half spun"

Ø 5th Step: 1st Drawing – From the carding machine we got Sliver. The breaker drawing (1st drawing) machine makes even the sliver by doubling process.

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Ø 6th Step: 2nd Drawing – After finished the process of 1st drawing by the finisher drawing (2nd drawing) machine we make the sliver more even (as much as possible.)

Ø 7th Step: Simplex – This machine produce roving from finisher sliver for make yarn.

Ø 8th Step: Ring Frame – This machine produce the count wise yarn from roving.

Ø 9th Step: Auto Cone – Winding is the main process of this machine. This auto coner machine make cone from the ring bobbin.

Ø 10th Step: Packing – After get the yarn cone from auto coner we packed these cone for sale or delivery to the knitting factory.

Apparel-Merchandising Dyeing process of Lycra Single Jersey Fabric

Learn Apparel Merchandising,

Single Jersey Spandex (Lycra) Fabric Dear All, Today I will share with you a very important dyeing process. Sometimes we got query from buyer for Fabric with spandex. All of these the most common require fabrication is - 95% cotton 5% spandex, Single jersey , 160 GSM. From the fiber market we can got many kinds spandex for knitting the fabric. Denier is the unit of Spandex. The common denier is 20D, 40D & 70D. Fiber thickness of 20D is thin then 40D. And 70D is thicker than 40D. Lycra is a brand (name) of Spandex. In single jersey spandex fabric it is very difficult to keep the GSM lower. If you intending to produce the s/j cotton spandex fabric in between 155 to 165 GSM then please follow the below things: Fabric 95% cotton 5% spandex, Single Jersey, 160 GSM Yarn count should be - 40/s comb Spandex should be - 20D Stitch Line should be - 2.80 Dyeing Process of Single Jersey Cotton Spandex Fabric:

• 1st step: After receive the grey fabric from knitting section in tube form, in dyeing section, at first we slit the fabric with slitting machine. • 2nd Step: Then we heat set the stilted fabric with stenter machine for avoiding the creased mark. And also for the Dia & Grey GSM fixing.

Dyeing the fabric (in the winch)- Option A) If the dyeing factory has high pressure dyeing machine (winch) then we should dye the fabric in open width. Option B) If the dyeing factory has normal dyeing winch then we should back sewing the open fabric to make it tube again.

• 3rd Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. • 4th Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric. • 5th Step: Soda / Salt wash. • 6th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not requiring for white color fabric. • 7th Step: Acid wash (after released color mixing water) • 8th Step: Color fixing by fixer.

Finishing process of the fabric (After dyeing) - If we are following option (A) then step will be like as below

• 9th Step: Stentering (heat setting) for adjust the Dia. For this again stentering we called it double heat settings. • 10th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length.

If we are following option (B) then step will be like as below • 9th Step: Slitting • 10th Step: Stentering (heat settings) for dia adjust. • 11th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length.

Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting. Hope, it will be helpful for all of you

Apparel-Merchandising Grey Mélange Fabric Dyeing Method (process)

Dear All, Actually Grey Mélange fabrics not need to dye, because yarn shade is already as per our requirement. So, when we calculate the fabric price of Grey mélange fabric, We only quote the below things

1. Yarn price 2. Knitting charge + knitting wastage 3. Fabric Washing & finishing cost (which we done in dyeing factory) + wastage. For this reason we got the Grey mélange fabric very quickly from dyeing.

However, please find below washing & finishing process of grey melange.

Fabrication: 90% cotton 10% viscose, Sing jersey. Dyeing(washing) 1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 2nd Step: Per-oxide wash 3rd Step: Acid washes 4th Step: Softener. B) Finishing For tube form 8th Step: Squeezer 9th Step: Dryer. 10th Step: Shrinkage Report (Optional) 11th Step: Tube Compacting For open width fabric 8th Step: Slitting 9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust) 10th Step: Open Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control) Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Gsm before start cutting.

Apparel-Merchandising Fleece Fabric Dyeing Method Dear All, Actually the dyeing process of fleece fabric same as like others fabric, only in the fabric finishing we used some extra process. Please find below the dyeing process

Fabrication: 100% cotton, One side brush fleece, 260 GSM. A) Dyeing 1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric. 3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash. 4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric. 5th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water) 6th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 7th Step: Softener. B) Finishing For tube form 8th Step: Squeezer 9th Step: Dryer. 10th Step: Brush inside (terry side) with brushing machine. 11th Step: Compacting For open width fabric 8th Step: Slitting 9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust) 10th Step: Brush inside (terry side) with brushing machine. 10th Step: Stentering 10th Step: Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control) Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.

Apparel-Merchandising Peach (carbonic) finished fabric dyeing & finishing method.

Learn Apparel Merchandising, Suede or Peach (carbonic) finished fabric dyeing & finishing method.

Dear All, The dyeing process of Sueded or Peach finished fabric same as like others fabric, only in the fabric finishing we used some extra process. Please find below the dyeing process Fabrication: 100% cotton, Single Jersey Peach finished (carbonic), 160 GSM. A) Dyeing 1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric. 3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash. 4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric. 5th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water) 6th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 7th Step: Softener. B) Finishing For tube form 8th Step: Squeezer 9th Step: Dryer. 10th Step: Suedeing or Peach (in the face side of fabric) with suede machine. 11th Step: Compacting For open width fabric 8th Step: Slitting 9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust) 10th Step: Suedeing or Peach (in the face side of fabric) with suede machine. 10th Step: Stentering 10th Step: Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control) Regarding the peach finished fabric please be careful regarding the neck rib & body color. Some time we found that rib & body color are not matching. Also we found hole in the fabric. Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.

Apparel-Merchandising Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method

100% Viscose Fabric Dyeing Method

Many times we got some inquiry from buyer for viscose fabric. Thought this fabric has some advantage, but also it has so many disadvantages which found in the dyeing process. Viscose fabric is not a common fabric like as cotton. The hand feelings of this fabric are same as silk & soft. Viscose yarn is a kind of yarn which made from cellulose base. Viscose is a type of man-made fiber but it is not a synthetic fiber like as polyester, because it is made from natural materials, but it is heavily processed. Advantages of Viscose

Fabric which is made from viscose yarn is that takes dyes very well, so that, we can work with a wide variety of colors. Viscose fabric is very shiny; also it stays bright and colorful throughout the life of the products made with it. So, if you want to work with various kind of bold and colorfast fabric then you can choose viscose.

Disadvantages of Viscose fabric

1) Fabric tearing possibility is very high during the dyeing process. 2) If the fabric remain wet for long times then some spot creates on it’s, which removal process is very difficult. But in cotton

fabric we can do this very easily. 3) If the fabric dyed uneven then it is very difficult to remove. 4) During the dyeing process if we fail to maintain the temperature & pressure properly then fabric strength will be reduce.

Fabric 100% Viscose, S/Jersey Fabric, 160 GSM Dyeing Process of 100% Viscose Fabric:

Actually viscose dyeing process is almost same as single jersey cotton spandex fabric. However, please find below the dyeing process.

· 1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process.

· 2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric. · 3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash. · 4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we

used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric. · 5th Step: Acid wash (after released color mixing water) · 6th Step: Color fixing by fixer.

Finishing process of the fabric (After dyeing) -

· 7th Step: Slitting · 8th Step: Stentering (heat settings) for dia adjust. · 9th Step: Open compacting for control shrinkage of fabric length.

Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting. However, I always suggest everybody to avoid the order with viscose fabric. Because dyeing of this is very risky & costly also. Hope, it will be helpful for all of you

Apparel-Merchandising Clarification of poly bag.

Details Clarification of poly bag.

Normally we used various kinds of bag to pack the goods. Poly bag is the most common and important item of them. Normally we bought various kinds / type of poly bag from the market. Most of the product is packed withpoly bag. Mainly in the apparel sector poly bag is a very common item. We packed the garments with the poly bag before insert in a carton for shipment. Sometimes we use one poly for one garment, we called it single poly. Sometimes we insert several single poly in a big poly we called it “blister poly". Considering the material there is several classifications in these Poly. Please find below the main classifications poly with all the details. PE (Polyethylene) : A lightweight thermoplastic used especially in packaging. It is tough, flexible and chemical resistance characteristics. PP (Polypropylene): Polypropylene has excellent chemical resistance is strong and has the lowest density of the plastics used in packaging. It is stiffer and clearer than polyethylene and has excellent resistance to water, salt and acid solutions and, when manufactured with virgin resin, polypropylene (PP) meets FDA requirements for food applications. Polypropylene (PP) is exceptionally suited to maximize the visual appeal of food and displayproducts. Any Product that needs an outstanding professional appearance can benefit from polypropylene (PP) packaging. LDPE = Low Density Polyethylene: Low Density Polyethylene is the most commonly used material for flexible packaging because it is tough, transparent and electrically stable. Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE) also has a low melting point, which is required for heat sealing applications. When low density polyethylene bags (LDPE) are made with virgin (no additives) polyethylene resin, they meet FDA standards for use with food products. LLDPE = Linear Low Density Polyethylene: A given thickness of Linear Low Density Polyethylene (LLDPE) is significantly stronger than the same thickness of Low Density Polyethylene (LDPE). Therefore, Linear Low Density Polyethylene (LLDPE) can be thinner and lighter and perform the same job as LDPE. These bags are bottom sealed for added strength. Linear Low Density Polyethylene (LLDPE) also has a low melting point, which is required for heat sealing applications. HDPE = High Density Polyethylene: High Density Polyethylene is used because of its excellent strength and significantly lighter weight. It has excellent protection capability and it is used in grocery and other retail segments extensively, while also suitable for a myriad of other uses. Nylon Laminated Polyethylene Nylon Laminated Polyethylene Vacuum packaging is the process of removing the air from within an impermeable plastic package and sealing food items inside to maintain flavor, freshness and color. Some forms of harmful bacteria thrive in the presence of oxygen. A Nylon film is incorporated into vacuum bags to prevent oxygen from returning to the bag after the extraction process, and prevents bacteria from spoiling the contents. Nylon vacuum bags can be used to preserve many different types of food, including beef, lamb, chicken, fish and cheese.

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Apparel-Merchandising MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES (Part 01)

Job List of a Merchandiser

INQUIRIES: 1. On receiving an inquiry(s) the merchandiser must prepare a checklist and immediately forward all information to 3

factories from the approved factory list for pricing. 2. The merchandiser must make sure that the factory specializes in the item being priced and has worked with the

client before. 2a. Selection of supplier should be based on their previous performance, efficiency, delivery, etc.

3. If it is a new client then the merchandiser must discuss the inquiry(s) with the dept. head before sending out the inquiry(s).

3a. In case of a new factory, a factory evaluation should be conducted as per the set standards.

QUOTING PRICES: 1. Prices must be sent within 1-2 days of receiving the inquiry. 2. All enquires must be entered in to the new development sheet. 3. Based on the lowest price the merchandiser must order proto sample. Min. 2 pieces must be ordered. One

sample for the customer and one office sample. 4. Before quoting any prices to the customer. The merchandiser should get all prices approved by the Head of

Merchandising or Managing Director. 5. If renegotiation is required then involve the dept. head, Head of Merchandising and Managing Director so that the

best prices are finalized with the factories. 6. Final quoted price must be updated on the new development sheet.

PHOTO SAMPLES: 1. Upon receipt of buyer’s specification, a thorough check should be conducted for precision. Obtain explanation

from customer for anything considered vague. 2. Forward the specification sheets/Pattern to the selected supplier with all the explanation of specifications &

technicalities on as & when received basis & update records. 3. Ensure timely availability of fabric. 4. Follow-up with the supplier to provide the sample latest within 2 days for local accessories & fabrics, in case of

imported items maximum 12 days. 5. Upon receipt of the sample from the supplier thoroughly check the followings

• Styling • Measurement (if any) • Stitching • Quality of the fabric • Fabric construction/GSM • Hand feel of the fabric • Washing standard • Finishing of the sample & accessories if any • Ensure compliance of the samples as per customer’s specifications.

6. At least 3 pieces of each sample should be developed. One for merchandisers, one for the customer & one for the suppliers for future references.

7. Prepare Proto Sample Checking Sheet 8. Put duly filled sample card on the sample. 9. Forward the samples as & when received basis & advice customer accordingly with all the details of dispatch. 10. Follow with the customers for approvals/comments. 11. Once approved, advice supplier as well as Head of Quality Control. 12. Update Order Checklist (if any) otherwise make checklist based on the style.

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MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES (Part 02) Job List of a Merchandiser

ORDER PLACEMENT: 1. Once an order is placed the merchandise manager should fill out a PO checklist. 2. All missing information with regards to the PO will be forwarded to the customer within 1 day of receiving the PO. 3. A complete PO package must be prepared and sent to the factory within 24 hours of receipt of order from

customer with a copy of P.O. to Commercial Department. 4. Prepare a projected production plan & forward the same to the Head of Quality Control & to the related supplier.

The schedule should comprise of expected dates for fabric Quality Check, ILC, IPC, MPC & FRI. 5. Prepare a projected sample plan & forward the same to the related supplier with a copy to the Head of

department.

3a. PO PACKAGE FOR FACTORY: A new PO package for the factory must include the following: • Original PO sheet. • Spec. Sketch and workman sheet. • Color print artwork, lab dip, original fabric swatch and original trim card. • Original sample (If available) Within 1 day of receipt of a new order the merchandise manager must call for a pre-production internal meeting. The following people must attend this meeting:

1. Head of Operation. 2. Merchandise Manager. 3. Acct. Related Merchandiser. 4. Head of QA Dept. 5. QA Personal. 6. Internal QA Personal.

At the meeting the merchandiser will issue all information with regards to the order. This information includes:

1. PO sheet copy. 2. Spec sheet with all related information. 3. Lab dip card, print artwork, trims card, etc. 4. Original fabric swatch (If available) 5. Proto sample.

MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES (Part 03) Job List of a Merchandiser

LAB DIP / PRINT STRIKE OFF: 1. Follow up with our customer for lab dips if necessary. 2. Upon receipt of the lab dips from the customer, immediately send a replica to the supplier. 3. Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of lab dips latest within 5 days. 4. Obtain maximum numbers of lab dips from the supplier’s minimum 3 per color. 5. Upon receipt of lab dips from the supplier, match lab dips against customer specifications via visual test or if required by the customer via lab test. 6. Head of department will give the final approval prior sending the samples to the buyers. 7. Forward the lab dips to the customer along with the lab test report on as & when received basis. Make sure the buyer receives the lab dibs as per their requirement.

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8. Follow with the customers for approvals/comments. 9. On approval inform supplier. 10. Update Order Checklist.

SIZE SET SAMPLES: 1. Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of Size Set options with actual fabric, maximum 4 days for local fabric & maximum 12 days for imported fabric. 2. Obtain 2 sets of samples of all sizes from the supplier. One for merchandisers & one for the customer. 3. Upon receipt of samples from the supplier, match these against customer specifications & comments. 4. Thoroughly check the styling, measurement (if any), stitching, quality of the fabric, fabric construction/GSM, hand feel, washing standard, finishing of the sample & accessories if any. 5. Prepare size set format sheet. 6. Head of department will give the final approval prior sending the samples to the buyers. 7. Forward the size set options to the customer’s on as & when received basis. 8. Ensure that buyer receives the samples as per their precise requirement. 9. Forward one or two pieces to the Head of Quality Control. 10. Follow with the customers for approvals/comments. 11. Upon receipt of approval advise supplier & Quality Control Head. 12. Update Order Checklist 13. Obtain actual production schedule from the supplier. Make sure the schedule is in accordance with the shipment date.

MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES (Part 04) Job List of a Merchandiser

SAMPLE ACCESSORIES: 1. Follow up with the customer for sample accessories, if required. 2. Upon receipt of buyer’s accessories, a thorough check should be conducted for precision. Obtain explanation from customer for anything considered vague. 3. Upon receipt of the accessories from the customer, forward the same to the supplier on as & when received basis. 4. Factories will be responsible for the selection of accessories supplier. We should forward no such recommendations to the factories. 5. Follow-up with the supplier and quality control for prompt delivery of accessories for local max 4 days for imported max 12 days. 6. Obtain 4 sets of samples of all accessories with at least 3 different options from the supplier. One for merchandisers, one for the customer, one for the quality control, & one for the suppliers for future references. 7. Upon receipt of samples from the supplier, match these against customer specifications. 8. Thoroughly check with the original/instructions received from the buyer, artwork, color, quality, sewing allowance, bar code, price tags etc. 9. Prepare accessories format sheet, format attached. 10. Head of department will give the final approval prior sending the samples to the buyers. 11. Prepare at least 2 trim/accessories cards. One for buyer & one for merchandiser. 12. Forward the accessories to the customer’s on as & when received basis. 13. Ensure that buyer receives the samples as per their precise requirement. 14. Follow with the customers for approvals/comments. 15. After approval advise the supplier accordingly.

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16. Update Order Checklist PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES:

1. Follow-up with the supplier for prompt delivery of pre-production sample maximum 2 days. 2. Obtain 4 sets of pre-production samples from the supplier. One for merchandisers, one for the customer, one for the quality control, & one for the suppliers for future references. 3. Pre production sample in all size sets should be available to the merchandisers at least 5 days before the start of actual production. 4. Upon receipt of samples from the supplier, match these against customer specifications. 5. Thoroughly check the styling, measurement, stitching, quality of the fabric, fabric construction/GSM, hand feel, washing standard, finishing of the sample & accessories. 6. Prepare PP sample format sheet 7. Head of department will give the final approval prior sending the samples to the buyers. 8. Forward the pre-production sample to the customer’s on as & when received basis. 9. Ensure that buyer receives the samples as per their precise requirement. 10. Follow with the customers for approvals/comments. 11. Once approved advised the supplier. 12. Update Order Checklist.

MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES (Part 05)

Job List of a Merchandiser DYE LOTS:

1. Follow-up with the supplier and quality control for the delivery of dye lot. 2. Dye Lot should be available (6 X 6, for every roll) to the merchandisers at least 5 days before the start of actual production. 3. Upon receipt of samples from the supplier forward the same to lab for lab test & match these against customer specifications. 4. Thoroughly see the color standard, color fastness, shrinkage, GSM/construction, hang feel, fabric quality, knitting tension, Lycra etc. 5. Head of department will give the final approval prior sending the samples to the buyers. 6. Update Order Checklist

BULK ACCESSORIES:

1. Follow-up with the supplier for the delivery of bulk accessories. 2. These accessories should be available to the merchandisers at least 5 days before the start of actual production. 3. Upon receipt match these against customer specifications. 4. Thoroughly check the accessories color & quality of trim against buyer’s comments. 5. Prepare Bulk Accessories format sheet, format attached. 6. Head of department will give the final approval prior sending the samples to the buyers. 7. Update Order Checklist

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MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES (Part 06) Job List of a Merchandiser

PRODUCTION: 1. Once sampling is completed Head of concern Merchandiser forwards the order file to the Head of Quality Control along with the approved sample & a copy of projected production schedule. Make sure the file is forwarded at least 5 days before start of actual production. 2. A meeting should be conducted between the Head of Merchandising Department, Concern Merchandiser, Head of Quality Control & Quality Control Officer (Production) discussing all the details of order. 3. Obtain an instruction sheet covering all the required information from the quality control officer & approve. 4. Make sure any new comments are added into the instruction sheet. 5. Regular follow up should be made with the suppliers & Quality Control regarding the status of production. 6. Make sure the Quality Control Department conducts all the required inspections i.e. Fabric Quality Testing, ILC, IPC, MPC & FRI for every order. For large volumes make certain, there are more than 1 MPC being conducted by the quality control. 7. Obtain reports of all the inspection conducted i.e. Fabric Quality Testing, ILC, IPC, MPC & FRI for every order from quality control & keep a copy for record. 8. Visit the supplier at least during one inspection. 9. Make sure that FRI is conducted at least 2 days before the shipment date. 10. Once FRI is OK, inform buyer. 11. Update Order Checklist.

SHIPMENT / SALESMAN SAMPLES: 1. Inform Head of Quality Control for Shipment Sample. 2. Obtain 2 sets of shipment samples from the Quality Control Department of all sizes covering all colors or as specified by the Customer. One or two pieces to be provided to concerned Merchandiser & all remaining to Manager Administration. In case where buyer requires shipment samples receive onecomplete set from Quality Control. 3. Shipment samples should be available to the merchandisers the next day of FRI. 4. Upon receipt of samples, conduct a thorough check & match these against customer specifications. 5. Thoroughly check the getup, styling, stitching, fabric quality, fabric construction/GSM, hand feel, washing standard, finishing, & accessories. 6. Prepare Shipment sample format sheet. 7. Head of department will give the final approval. 8. If required, forward the shipment sample to the customer’s on as & when received basis. 9. Ensure that buyer receives the samples as per their precise requirement. 10. Forward one set of shipment samples to administration department. 11. Keep remaining samples in the department for future use & maintain a register. 12. Update Order Checklist

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MERCHANDISING PROCEDURES (Part 07) Job List of a Merchandiser

DELIVERY & COMMERCIAL DEPT.

1. Regular follow-up is essential to: • Ensure goods are handed over to the forwarder. • Ensure the forwarder books space/flight for timely delivery of goods. • Ensure staffing of goods is conducted. • Ensure the date of departure is as per the booking. • Obtain vessel/flight details from commercial department & advise buyer. • Receive acknowledgement of goods from buyer. • Update Order Checklist

DOCUMENTATION: Conduct regular follow up with commercial department & supplier for the timely delivery of all the below mentioned documents to the buyer. (a) Packing List (b) Commercial Invoice (c) GSP (d) Country of Origin Certificate (e) Bill of Lading/Master Airway Bill is sent from supplier’s bank to buyer’s bank only. (f) Inspection Certificate All these documents are required to be sent to the buyer first via email or fax & then original via courier. Receive acknowledgement of documents from buyer. (Collected)

Apparel-Merchandising Calculate the Price of a Carton.

Dear All, From this post you will learn how to calculate the price of a carton. For these you need the following 04 (four) information at first, as listed below: i. Carton length in cm of your expected carton. ii. Carton width in cm of your expected carton. iii. Carton height in cm of your expected carton. iv. Rate of per square meter liner in US$. In this regards pls note that, in present market the liner rate is +/- $0.75 to $0.83 which may changed any time. Also it is depend on the liner quality. One things more regarding the carton ply I will explain you later. So, now just put the following information and get your carton price.

Otherwise you may follow the below rules. Say, The length of carton is = 60 The width of carton is = 40 The height of carton is = 30 Price for 7 ply liner rate = $0.80/ Sqm (square meter) Carton cost calculation rule = [{(Length + width + allowance) X (Width + Height + 4)} X 2] / 10000 X Per square liner rate = [{(60 + 40 + 6) X (40 + 30 + 4)} X 2] / 10000 X $0.80 = [{(106) X (74)} X 2] / 10000 X $0.80 = {(7844 X 2)} / 10000 X $0.80 = 15688 / 10000 X $0.80 = 1.5688 X $0.80 = $1.25504 / pc (Per carton rate)

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Apparel-Merchandising CALCULATION OF GSM

Dear All, GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading. There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric First formula is as under: Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex GSM = ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 1000 X 1000 aNd WPI X CPI X SL(mm) GSM = ----------------------------- X 0.9155 Count(Ne) CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH (WPI): We calculated the number of Wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no of total Wales by 10 inch to getting the Wales per inch. CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH (CPI): We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch. MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH (SL mm): Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

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In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit. MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT: We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn. The equation we followed is as follow: N x L x 453.6 Count = ---------------- Wt x 36 x 840 Where, N = number of yarn in bundle. L = length of yarn. Wt = weight of yarn. Another formula is the following: Ks x Tex GSM = --------------------- Stitch length (mm) Where, Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated and estimated as below: GSM x Stitch length Ks = ----------------------------- Tex

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Apparel-Merchandising Costing tips for the knit Ite

Dear All, In my post I will explain you some points which is very important for quote prices

Before start costing

1) Fabrication: You must take clear idea regarding the fabrication before taking the order from the buyer / buying house. After then, you must ensure that, you have strong source of the followings fabric.

2) Size spec: Make sure that, you have got the correct/latest size spec with the measurement of all the sizes, which will be ordered. Many times we see that, PO sheet has come with new bigger size which was not during the costing.

3) Fabric color: Try to know that, how many colors the style has & also try to know that, color wise order qty ratio.

4) Qty: Take information regarding approximate order qty.

5) Shipment date: Asked buyer for the shipment date & check with your production department that, they have enough space for shipped out the followings qty within the require ship date Or tell your possible date.

6) Test requirement: Let you know that, the order has any test or not.

7) L/c payments term: Take a previous l/c copy from them & discuss with your commercial people regarding all the terms along with payment terms. For more details Click here

8) Inspection: Pls get a confirmation from the buyer that, who will inspected the goods. If third party then who will pay their charges.

9) GSP: Pls confirm that, buyer has need the GSP or not.

Calculating Fabric Consumption

1) Body Consumption: Calculate the body fabric consumption at first. If possible calculate it after make the pattern. Be confirmed regarding the dia. Calculate the consumption with adding + 5 gsm extra which fabric is sells in kg (s/j, pique, rib etc). Or reduce 2” (in width) from the both side which are in yards (tricot, taffeta etc). Moreover, if the garments are wash garments then make sure that, the pattern has the wash allowance.

2) Rib: Calculate the rib consumption carefully because sometimes the garments have rib at cuff opening & bottom hem. Some people mistakenly do the consumption considering one cuff.

3) Neck tape: Calculate the consumption of neck tape.

4) Appliqué & others fabric: Make sure that, you are not missing any appliqué & any other fabric.For Appliqué consumption Click here

5) Estimate the wastage: Normally we add 9% wastage for the knit items. However, it’s may vary depends on how many process the garments have. If it is with only front chest print then 9% is ok but if with all over/rotary print, with heavy wash etc then you must increase the wastage. Moreover, if the garments with pigments dye then add minimum 25 to 30% wastage because in this pigment dye garments reject percentage is very high. Others item

1) Print: If the garments have print then make sure that, you have a clear art work of it. Check that there clearly mentioned the print quality, dimension & placement. Send the art work to your printers for a better price idea. Also let you know from your printers regarding the difficulties of the followings print. Many times we found that, buyer has asked for so many type/kind prints in same body which is so difficult for production. Such as, if buyer asked for Flock + discharge & foil print in at the same artwork then it is not possible for production.

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2) Embroidery: Discuss with your embroidery supplier regarding the embroidery & take price quotation.

3) Wash: Take the wash price quotation from washing factory.

4) Test: Confirm the charges of test from the testing company.

Accessories & trims Pls try to Calculate the price of accessories individually it will reduce your percentage of mistake. Pls find below the list of some accessories item

1) Sewing thread: Confirm that, which thread you need 100% cotton, spun polyester or filaments. Then ensure the count 50/2 or 40/2 or any other denier. Its may vary on fabrications. Regarding the pigment dye garments we normally used cotton grey color cotton thread. Calculate the sewing thread consumption part by part & add require wastage percentage. For details of Sewing thread consumption Thread Chart & Consumption Formula

2) Labels: Take the quotation from your supplier for the entire woven & satin/paper label.

3) Tape: Calculate the consumption of tape if it has, such as Velvet, herringbone or canvas etc.

4) Elastic: Make sure which denier & width it need. Then take the quotation from supplier.

5) Zipper: If the garments have zippers then confirm that, from where you will purchase that. Many time the logo zipper need to import the mold from abroad. Make sure the zipper quality, such metal, nylon or vislon zipper. Check the zipper measurement from your production department and get prices from your zipper supplier.

6) Button: Take the button price from your supplier if the garments have it. For button ligne Click here

7) Inter lignin: Calculate the inter lignin price if the garments need.

8) Patch or badge: Calculate the patch or badge or others metal item if the garments have.

9) Finishing item: Tissue paper, silica gel, hang tag, barcode sticker, back board, h/tag string, scotch tape, security tag calculate the prices of these item.

10) Hanger: Take the quotation of hanger.

11) Poly: Make the measurement of poly. Confirm the quality & with adhesive or not.

12) Carton: Find out the carton measurement & take the prices from carton supplier along with top, bottom & divider.

13) Gum tape: Confirm the gum tape quality that, whether it is normal transparent or with any logo. Then take the price quotation.

14) PP belt: Take the price quotation of pp belt if buyer asked it.

15) Carton sticker: Take quotation for sticker. Commercial cost

Normally we add 3% of total purchase (Fabric cost+ other item cost + Accessories cost) as commercial cost if the L/c payments terms is as sight. If the l/c is 60 days deferred then you can add 7.5% additional cost of total price and it will be 15% for 90 day deferred.

CM (Cost of making)

Calculate the CM after discussion with your production department. It’s vary depends on require machine qty & output qty. For calculate the CM Click here

Profit Normally we add 20% of CM cost with the price as profit.

What Things You Must Know Before Starting Work With a New Buyer/Buying house? Learn Apparel Merchandising, Dear All, From my this post you will get a details list of information, which is very important for a merchandiser as well as factory before starting work with a new Buyer.

⇒ The buyer name & history.

⇒ Final destination or place of delivers the goods.

⇒ Buying house name (if any).

⇒ Payment terms (L/C or TT or Contact).

⇒ If L/c then, the Payment Condition at sight or deferred.

⇒ If deferred then, 60 days or 90 days or any other.

⇒ Price will be in FOB or CIF?

⇒ Is the price will be including buying commission or w/o commission?

⇒ Who will inspect the goods?

⇒ If third party then who will be pay the inspection charge?

⇒ Original art work with styling details or Scan copy must be needed.

⇒ Actual & latest size specs with all the sizes which qty in purchase order / order sheet.

⇒ Fabrications details (Composition, Type, Gsm, Peach/sweated, Enzyme/silicon or any other additional requirement).

⇒ Additional fabric details (Appliqué etc, if any).

⇒ Wash garments or w/o wash (if then washing details).

⇒ Print details including dimension & placement. Such as pigment/rubber/flock/foil etc (if any).

⇒ Embroidery details (Normal stitch, appliqué, Badge etc, if any).

⇒ Test requirement details (Azo or any others, if any).

⇒ Order qty, if possible color wise (Approximately).

⇒ Maximum body color (Approximately).

⇒ Size wise qty ratio (%) = S/? %, M/? %, L/ ? % etc.

⇒ Stripe repetition details with color (for yarn dyed).

⇒ Viscose percentage for Grey mélange & Polyester percentage for cvc or pc

⇒ Probable delivery date. Pls note that, it is not compulsory that, you will get all the above information from your buyer at the very beginning, but pls try to get above information since the beginning from your buyer. These information will help you many ways in future to continue work smoothly with the following Buyer.

Apparel-Merchandising Zipper Measurement.

Learn Apparel Merchandising.

How we calculate the Zipper Length. The rules of zipper measurement are very simple but some time it becomes a matter of big trouble for us. Actually it depends on the fabric & zipper properties. So, at first we must need an idea about the shrinkage of body fabric & zipper tape. Some zipper measurements are not very complicated such as pocket, leg opening etc. Here, we only discuss about the front long zipper of sweat shirt or Jacket or as like that. A) If the garments is hooded sweat shirt and the zipper goes up to front neck drop from bottom then the rules will as under Say, Body length (From HPS) - 73 cm Front Neck drop (CB) - 8 cm Back Neck drop - 2 cm (Use the below rule if the body length measure from HPS) Rules : Body length - (Front neck drop + Back neck drop) - 2% to 3% = ( 73 - (8 + 2)) -2% = ( 73 - 10 ) - 2% = 63 - 2% = 61.5 cm

OR Body length (From CB) - 71 cm Front Neck drop(CB) - 8 cm (Use the below rule if the body length measure from CB) Rules : (Body length - Front neck drop ) - 2% to 3% = ( 71 - 8 ) -2% = ( 71 - 8 ) - 2% = 63 - 2% = 61.5 cm B) If the garments is high neck and the zipper goes up to to of high neck drop from bottom then the rules will as under -

Say, Body length (From CB) - 65 cm Front Neck drop - 6 cm Height of high neck - 6 cm Rules : (Body length - Front neck drop) - 2% to 3% + Height of high neck = ( 65 - 6) -2% + 6 = ( 59 ) - 2% + 6 = 57.82 + 6

= 63.82 cm = 64 cm Moreover, the rules is not always remain fixed, its may vary depends on practical situations. However, I always advise that you must confirm the zipper measurement with your cutting master & production manager before place an order.

Apparel-Merchandising Fabric dyeing process of Single Jersey Average Color

Dyeing process of S/J Avg Clr (Any GSM)

Dyeing Process Fabrication: 100% cotton, Single Jersey, Average Color, Any GSM A) Dyeing 1st Step: Scouring (detergent wash) the fabric in the dyeing winch and released the water for perform the next process. 2nd Step: Labeling the fabric by labeling agent which increased the PH of fabric. 3rd Step: Soda / Salt wash. 4th Step: Mixing the specific color (reagent) for dye the fabric. Or if fabric color is white then we used brightener chemical in this step. And step 06 is not require for white color fabric. 5th Step: Acid washes (after released color mixing water) 6th Step: Color fixing by fixer. 7th Step: Softener. B) Finishing For tube form 8th Step: Squeezer

9th Step: Dryer. 10th Step: Shrinkage Report (Optional) 11th Step: Tube Compacting For open width fabric 8th Step: Slitting 9th Step: Stentering (For Dia adjust) 10th Step: Open Compacting (For length wise shrinkage control) Now the fabric is ready for cutting. Please test the Shrinkage, Color shade, Gsm before start cutting.