apparel, educational studies & hospitality management … · joseph-armstrong, h. draping for...

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Instructor: Christina Denekas Office 1043D LeBaron Hall Office Phone: 515.294.7821 Email: [email protected] Office Hours: by appointment Prerequisites: AMD 301 - Enforced Meeting Times: MWF 12:00pm to 1:50pm Location: LeBaron 2063 & 2061 Course Description: Apparel design through basic draping techniques on industry standard dress forms. Analysis of fit and design, problem solving and interaction of fabric characteristics with style features. Overview Statement: AMD 325 is a course which emphasizes development of technical patternmaking skills at an intermediate level. Students continue to evolve principles of design with draping methods and flat patternmaking to develop original design ideas. Emphasis is on relationships between two and three-dimensional design processes. These include interpretation of sketches into draped and finished garments, along with the use of draping techniques for both technical and creative design and organize research findings to formulate market strategies and trends to convey concepts and designs for a specified market. Teaching Methods: Learning will occur in an interactive classroom environment, in which the instructor will present course information through lectures and demonstrations. Often times the instructor will assist a student in seeking out answers rather than simply giving it. This is in effort to focus on student learning, engagement, problem solving, and information retention. Students will complete a variety of assignments designed to integrate information from the lectures and demonstrations to evaluate each student’s understanding of the material. Material needs to be read and prepped ahead of class to ensure optimal learning. Learning Outcomes: Based on College of Human Sciences (CHS) Learning Outcomes, all graduates form the AESHM Department should be able to demonstrate the General Department Learning Outcomes:

1. Communication; 2. Self-assessment/self-reflection; 3. Critical thinking; and 4. Ethics, diversity and social responsibility.

Details about the CHS Learning Outcomes can be found on the CHS website.

Designs & Illustrations by Colin Behr Fall 2014

Apparel, Educational Studies & Hospitality Management

AMD 325 Patternmaking II

FALL 2016

mailto:[email protected]

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Table of Contents Syllabus Pg. # AMD 325 Syllabus 1 Course Objectives 2 Expectations 3 Course Policies 3 Course Assignments & Requirements 7 Course Points 8 Grading Scale 9 Supplies 9 Schedule 10 Draping Problem Assignment Grade Sheets 13 Original Design 1 Grade Sheets 20 Original Design 2 Grade Sheets 22 Original Design 3 Grade Sheets 24 Dress Form Contract 28 & 29 Patternmaking Checklist 30 Course Objectives:

1. Develop three-dimensional design ideas through draping of muslin on a body form. 2. Evaluation of existing garments and/or sketches to determine appropriate draping techniques needed to

develop design. 3. Develop sensitivity for fabric characteristics in order to recognize the possibilities and limitations of

different textures for garment design. 4. Develop a means for creative expression through the acquisition of skills needed to drape and produce

original garment designs. 5. Construct and use proper techniques to construct apparel first and production sample garments from

draped muslin patterns. 6. Use suitable hand construction and sewing techniques in assembling representative samples. 7. Practice fit alteration and fitting techniques. 8. Create presentations using Microsoft PowerPoint and effective visual and oral communication to present

garment designs, spec sheets, cost sheet, and other tech pack info. 9. Critique their own work and that of peers to evaluate correct methods and identify ways to strengthen

future work. Required Texts:

Kiisel, Karolyn. (2013). Draping The Complete Course. Lawerence King Publishing: London, United Kingdom.

Reference Texts:

Joseph-Armstrong, H. Draping for Apparel Design. New York: Fairchild Publications Joseph-Armstrong, H. Patternmaking for Fashion Design. New Jersey: Pretince Hall Shaeffer, C. (1993). Couture Sewing Techniques. New Jersey: Pretince Hall. Shaeffer, C. (2001). Sewing for the apparel industry. New Jersey: Pretince-Hall. Research Site: Research fashion trends and designers for projects on the fashion forecasting site, Stylesight. Access the website from http://www.stylesight.com/edu/, on computers in 106, 108, 113, and 307 MacKay. Your username is your ISU email address and the system will generate a password (which you can change at any time). From there you may go to www.stylesight.com from anywhere and enter your login credentials.

https://exchange.iastate.edu/owa/redir.aspx?C=h2kMomxA-U20Hw-_i2npYBJXNIZ_Us8IChSipJrXnOFPzNgkg0YMb2WVr7KhzlGe3HCsq1m0hgc.&URL=http%3a%2f%2fwww.stylesight.com%2fedu%2f

http://www.stylesight.com/

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Every 90 days you will need to reactivate your account within the IP address (106, 108, 113, 307 MacKay). You will receive instructions and pop-up messages when that time comes. Students are expected to conduct research and keep up-to-date with current styles and trends through fashion publications and on-line reporting services including Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, W, WWD & websites such as www.style.com, & www.firstview.com. There are also numerous individual designer sites. Method of Evaluation: Students will be graded on practice draping problems, one design challenge, and completion of three draped garments. Expectations of Myself as Instructor:

1. Be a resource for my students 2. Challenge my students 3. Provide projects that are useful tools for developing a professional portfolio 4. Be supportive of your ideas and provide constructive feedback

Expectations of You as Students:

1. Prepare yourself PRIOR to class including but not limited to preparing muslin, reading assigned book pages, and DVD included in the text.

2. Challenge yourselves 3. Have a good attitude 4. Support your classmates 5. Take pride in your work 6. Attend class and fully participate 7. Call and leave a message or email

on the rare occasion you will not attend class

8. Stay for the entire class period 9. Clean up after yourself at the end of

class 10. Turn off your cell

phones/computers/tablets during lectures, presentations, and demonstrations.

Lecture & Laboratory Procedures:

1. Students are expected to have the necessary materials and supplies for each meeting. The instructor will NOT provide them.

2. Projects must be worked on in class, but some work will also need to be completed outside of class. 3. Projects not worked on in class will not be accepted. 4. Students are expected to make their own patterns and complete their own work. 5. Students are encouraged to watch process on projects of other class members and to share learning

experience with others. 6. Projects are due on the designated date. Late projects will NOT BE ACCEPTED. The only

consideration will be given to situations with written physician’s notes or family deaths.

Course Policies: Class begins promptly at the designated time. Work times in the lab are just as important as lecture, discussion and demonstrations. Along with your own efforts, you are expected to learn by observing the problems encountered by your classmates and their solutions. You are expected to have all assignments completed on time and participate in classroom critiques and discussion. You are also expected to take an active role in your education, take initiative, and ask questions for assistance. Academic Honesty - The class will follow Iowa State University’s policy on academic dishonesty. Anyone suspected of academic dishonesty will be reported to the Dean of Students Office.

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http://www.dso.iastate.edu/ja/academic/misconduct.html It is expected that all work you submit will be original and solely the result of your own efforts. Submitting work from a previous semester is not allowed. Resubmission of work will result in a 0 for the project. “The academic work of all students must comply with all University policies on academic honesty. Examples of academic misconduct are:

Attempting to use unauthorized information in the taking of an exam;

Submitting as one’s own work, themes, reports, drawings, laboratory notes, computer programs or other products prepared by another person;

Knowingly assisting another student in obtaining or using unauthorized materials; or

Plagiarism.” (Student Conduct Code, Section 4.2.1, p. 27) All instances of cheating will be handled individually and disciplinary actions to be administered may include any or all of the following: a grade of “0” on the assignment or exam, automatic failure in the course. Accommodation of Special Needs - Iowa State University complies with the Americans with Disabilities Act and Sect 504 of the Rehabilitation Act. If you have a disability and anticipate needing accommodations in this course, please contact the instructor to set up a meeting within the first two weeks of the semester or as soon as you become aware of your need. Before meeting with the instructor, you will need to obtain a SAAR form with recommendations for accommodations from the Disability Resources Office http://www.dso.iastate.edu/dr/ , located in Room 1076 on the main floor of the Student Services Building. Their telephone number is 515.294.7220 or email [email protected]. Retroactive requests for accommodations will not be honored. Special accommodation exam - All students who need special accommodations for exams as indicated in their SARS agreement must arrange taking the exams at the Exam Accommodation Center (see below). To make sure that the exam is scheduled at the time of midterm/final, students should make reservations in advance. When students who do not need special accommodation miss an exam and are eligible for a make-up exam (e.g., illness), faculty or student with approval from the faculty should contact AESHM department office to check availability and then schedule the exam date/time. Or, consider giving the exam in his/her office. Alcohol & Controlled Substance Abuse - Abuse of alcohol or other controlled substances, during sponsored university events, during field studies, or in class settings, or when it creates a hazard for the student and others in the room provides justification for receiving a failing grade for the course or removal from the event. (See the ISU policies at http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/alcohol/ and http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/drugs ) Attendance – Success in this group study requires attendance. Formal attendance will not be taken; however, as an emerging professional into the apparel industry it is expected you will attend class and fully participate in each class meeting. Attendance is required for every class session except for extenuating circumstances. You are allowed up to a total of three absences, excused or unexcused. At the fourth absence, your final grade will be lowered by 5 percent. Each additional absence beyond the fourth lowers your final grade by another 5 percent. Coming to class late (5 minutes or more) three times equals one unexcused absence. Leaving early will also affect your final grade. If a class is missed it is your responsibility to obtain the information missed. Use your absences carefully! Class absences because of study tours, course-related field trips, professional conferences, practicum, and other educational activities that requires students to be absent from class will be handled as follows. Faculty supervising the educational activity should provide a memo or letter identifying specific dates and educational activity (study tour, field trip, etc.) to students sufficiently in advance so that faculty teaching other classes can be notified of absences. Students should allow no less than 5 days (excluding weekends) before the absence. Prior to the missed class, students need to discuss with the instructor make-up exams, announced quizzes, projects or labs that will be missed. Assignments – Late assignments will not be accepted. If you encounter extenuating circumstances please contact me within 6 hours of the projects due time.

mailto:[email protected]

http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/alcohol/

http://policy.iastate.edu/policy/drugs

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BlackBoard Usage: Students will be responsible for information posted on the course website. Students should check the site for additional project tutorials, grade sheets, etc. BlackBoard requires a properly configured browser. It is recommended that you run a browser test so BlackBoard works properly for you. Look for the “How to use BlackBoard” in the menu on the left. Scroll down to “Additional Information.” Click on the link “ISU Blackboard Support for Stduents.” Follow the directions listed. Do not assume that all is fine with your computer. You are encouraged to do this immediately so that you will not fall behind. Any technical problems regarding Blackboard should be pursued through the recourses listed on the login page. Classroom Courtesy – Respect and care for the classroom and studio spaces are expected of each student. You are to leave the studio in better condition than you found it, so that all students have a positive experience using our studio and classroom spaces. You are expected to have the necessary materials and supplies for each meeting. Projects must be worked on in class, but some work will also need to be completed outside of class. Projects not worked on in class will not be accepted. You are encouraged to watch progress on projects of other class members and to share learning experience with others. Class Prep - You will be expected AND required to prepare all muslin PRIOR to the start of class at 12pm. This means you must read the assigned text, cut, press, and prepare fabric according to measurements listed in text. In class draping exercises will be due at the end of each class meeting. To ensure time for completion, preparation must be done or students risk losing points.

Classroom or Grade Problems - If a student has a course related problem, she or he should discuss it with the course instructor first. If the student is not satisfied, she or he should contact his/her advisor to address the situation. The advisor will suggest possible course of actions. For more information refer to http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#appealofacademicgrievances.

Course Fees - A course fee of $90 is assigned to this class. A general fee of $45 is assessed to all students in the class that covers lab equipment maintenance and repairs, pattern paper, thread, etc. The rest of the funds are used to purchase tag board, pattern hooks, and fabric for draping exercises.

Students are responsible for purchasing all muslin, materials for design projects including but not limited to, fashion fabric, linings, closures, etc. Students can utilize the digital textile printer if so desired and will be responsible for the costs associated with that. Due Dates (Departmental Policy) - All assignments/projects must meet class deadlines as established by the instructor. Technology problems are not acceptable excuses. All assignments are expected on the due date and time. NO late assignments will be accepted. Project assignments are to be turned in completely finished, including hems, closures, and any written evaluations required. Failure to do so will result in loss of points. The due dates for all assignments are included in the syllabus, but may be subject to change. You will be informed of any changes in class, blackboard or via e-mail. You are preparing to work in a professional environment where respecting due dates can make a crucial difference in your career. Take this seriously. Penalties start accruing immediately after the project/assignment deadline. Projects not submitted in class need to be turned into 31 MacKay for a date stamp during normal office hours (8am to 5pm). Unusual circumstances must be discussed with faculty before the project/assignment is due. Dead Week - This class follows the Iowa State University Dead Week policy as noted in section 10.6.4 of the Faculty Handbook http://www.provost.iastate.edu/resources/faculty-handbook. Electronic Devices - All usage of laptops or other similar devices must be approved by the instructor. All cell phones should be turned off and put away, or the instructor can ask the student to leave the classroom for the rest of the class period, in which case it will be counted as an absence. It is understood the use of computers will occur frequently in this class. It’s asked that you refrain from using it while the instructor is teaching a lesson, and left for work time.

http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#appealofacademicgrievances

http://www.provost.iastate.edu/resources/faculty-handbook

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Emergency Response - In an emergency situation, follow emergency response guide athttp://www.ehs.iastate.edu/sites/default/files/uploads/publications/posters/EmergencyPoster.pdf. For more information, refer tohttp://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/emergencynotification General - Use correct terminology; list citations for all references (use appropriate style such as APA, MLA, or the Chicago Style Manual), including Internet sources, and quotations (class materials will identify specific citation format to be used); apply appropriate mathematical and industry/business concepts, and use standard English grammar and punctuation. Global Citizenship - Global citizenship involves positive interaction with and respect for other cultures and the diversity of individuals in and out of the classroom. A good global citizen will make an effort to appreciate differences in language, culture, customs, behaviors and means of doing business, accept diversity and seek to build new relationships. Global citizens treat everyone with respect and courtesy in and out of the classroom. International faculty and teaching assistants are to be accorded the same attention and courtesy as given to other faculty and TAs. Harassment and Discrimination - Iowa State University strives to maintain our campus as a place of work and study for faculty, staff, and students that is free of all forms of prohibited discrimination and harassment based upon race, ethnicity, sex (including sexual assault), pregnancy, color, religion, national origin, physical or mental disability, age, marital status, sexual orientation, gender identity, genetic information, or status as a U.S. veteran. Any student who has concerns about such behavior should contact his/her instructor, Student Assistance at 515-294-1020 or email [email protected], or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance at 515-294-7612. Picking Up Student Work Following Grading - The pickup of all student projects and papers must be monitored for security and confidentiality. Individual professors/instructors may make arrangements to return assignments during class periods or from their offices. Items must be monitored by the professor/instructor to insure that they are not lost or stolen. Professors and instructors, who are not able to sufficiently monitor this activity, must arrange for pick-up in 31 MacKay by providing the office staff with a class list. Students must show their student ID and sign for all items before they will be allowed to retrieve them. Presentations, projects, assignments, and papers - These graded dimensions of a course must be presented in the format identified in the syllabus or project/assignment description handout. Professional Behavior - Professional behavior and a professional work attitude are expected of all students/staff/faculty at all times while on campus, in class, or while representing ISU away from campus (including field trips, field study, internships, and study tours). This includes respect and consideration of fellow students, faculty, and TAs; maintaining classroom spaces; meeting or adhering to dress codes, where applicable; and active participation in group and individual critiques and classroom discussions. Demonstration of respect includes paying attention to speakers, arriving on time for class or appointments, staying in class for the entire time and not walking out of class before it is over or returning after a few minutes, appropriate demeanor during class (no whispering, listening to music, no cell phones ringing or being answered, no use of electronic communication such as texting or visiting websites), etc. Religious Accommodation - If an academic or work requirement conflicts with your religious practices and/or observances, you may request reasonable accommodations. Your request must be in writing, and your instructor or supervisor will review the request. You or your instructor may also seek assistance from the Dean of Students Office or the Office of Equal Opportunity and Compliance.

Standards for student work - All student work must adhere to the minimum standards listed below and in the course syllabus.

Student Work in Repeat Classes - This policy applies to the work handed in by students who are repeating a course offered by the AESHM Department. All coursework for the repeat attempt must be original work and cannot have been worked on or submitted for a grade in the original or subsequent attempt(s). This coursework includes but is not limited to papers, presentations, notebooks, portfolios, projects, and labs. Any work submitted for a second time that had been submitted in a previous semester by that or any other student will

http://www.ehs.iastate.edu/sites/default/files/uploads/publications/posters/EmergencyPoster.pdf

http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/emergencynotification

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receive an F for that project/assignment and a new project/assignment cannot be submitted later in the semester to remedy the F. See the ISU policy at http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#academicdishonesty Contact Information - If you are experiencing, or have experienced, a problem with any of the above issues, email [email protected]. Teamwork - Communicate effectively with team members (attend group meetings, exchange critical contact information (email address and phone number(s)), share written communication – including email), work cooperatively with members, and contribute equally to project development and written/visual materials. Students failing minimum teamwork expectations may be removed from the team. See the syllabus for individual course policies.

Violence Free University - At ISU, violence, threats or implied threats of violence, and intimidation (verbal or physical acts intended to frighten or coerce) impede the goal of providing a safe environment and will not be tolerated. For more information, refer to http://www.policy.iastate.edu/policy/violence .

Work Areas - You are responsible for keeping the classroom neat and clean. Each student needs to clean up their work areas before she or he leaves. Pick up scraps on tables and the floor and put away pattern blocks and equipment. Absolutely no food or drink is allowed in the classroom at any time. It is the responsibility of the last person leaving the workroom to be sure the irons, lights, and all machines are turned off.

Course Assignments & Requirements: *For more detailed information on grading please refer to individual grade sheets on Bb. Black Board Quizzes – Quizzes over required reading material and information presented in class will be given through Blackboard. Quizzes are listed on the class schedule and when listed as open will open at 8am on the date indicated and close at 8pm on date indicated on class schedule. Draping Problem Assignments - Each assignment will be evaluated on the form in multiple stages, during the 1st drape of the right half of the garment and the fully sewn garment with closures. Muslin needs to be completed and on the form per grading rubric. Each draping problem assignment will be turned in during the class time indicated with the fully sewn muslin hung on a hanger and paper patterns, and additional papers on a pattern hook.

1. Half drape of assigned project, labeled correctly fit appropriate, ease, proper pinning, etc 2. Finished ½ of body pinned muslin (on form for evaluation prior to turning in)

a. trued lines and labeled properly ie name, pattern name, size, form number, any identifying markings (bust point, seam allowances, grainline, CF/CB, closure location, etc). Appropriate seam finishes, order of operation with sewing, special treatments per grade sheet, etc

3. Paper pattern a. pattern muslin transferred to properly labeled as above and accurately transferred

4. Fully sewn muslin with required sewing techniques and finishing pre grade sheet. 5. Rabbit punch and attach to pattern hook 6. Pattern card typed

a. Tech flat – computer generated, accurate representation of finished garment draped b. Patterns listed – all listed and correct cut number c. Fashion Fabric swatch d. All notions necessary – zipper(s), buttons, etc.

7. Grading sheet from syllabus with students name

Half Scale/Full Scale in class draping – Each assignment will be evaluated on the half scale form (collars full scale) in multiple stages through the in-class draping demo. Muslin needs to be draped, trued, and pinned on form in class for instructor to check off. Upon completion 10 points will

http://catalog.iastate.edu/academiclife/#academicdishonesty

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be given. Keep these draped exercises as they need to be transferred to paper on students on time and included in the notebook compiled and turned in at the end of class. Draping Notebook – Each draping problem assignment needs to be organized and placed in a 3 ring binder in a manner which the student can use it as a reference guide, (similar to AMD 121 notebook). Keep graded draping assignments (sewn muslin and paper pattern), pattern card, and grade sheets in clear sleeves so that you can access them easily. Develop an organization system containing enough detail to allow the user to find information easily. Easy-to-find divider tabs should be used along with plastic sleeves to protect pages

1. Table of Contents 2. Each of the draped projects in order draped and

organized as follows (7 total): a. Pattern Cards b. Grade Sheets c. Muslin Drape (1/2 body) d. Paper Patterns e. Fully Sewn Muslin

3. Half/Full Scale Draping Problems (15 total): a. Draped muslin b. Transferred to paper

4. Sewing & Hand stitching techniques Original Designs 1, 2, & 3 – Each original design project will be turned in on a proper garment hanger and needs to include the following attached to hanger via rabbit punch on paper items:

1. Powerpoint a. Inspiration b. Target Market c. Pricing Guide d. Photos each on separate page

i. Technical Sketches Front & Back ii. Fully colored illustrations Front & Back

2. Muslin Drape with proper labeling on muslin 3. Production Pattern (paper pattern) 4. Production Sample (fashion fabric) 5. Printed papers

a. Pattern Card b. Pricing Sheet

6. PowerPoint Presentation uploaded to CyBox Course Points: Black Board Quizzes 35 points Full Scale Draping & Sewing Assignments (7 @ 40/ea) 280 points Half Scale Draping Problem Assignments (15 @ 10/ea) 150 pointsDraping Notebook 135 points Design Challenge 100 points Original Design 1 100 points Original Design 2 100 points Original Design 3 100 points Total Points 1000 points

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Grading Scale: 925 - 1000 = A 900- 924 = A- 875 - 899 = B+ 825 - 874 = B 800 - 824 = B- 775 – 799 = C+ 725 – 774 = C 700 – 724 = C- 675 – 699 = D+ 525 – 674 = D 600 – 624 = D- 0 – 599 = F Late Policy: Late assignments will not be accepted. Supplies:

#2 Pencil – ALWAYS SHARP Mechanical Pencil Red Ball Point Pen Colored Pencils: Red, Green, White 4 Pattern Hooks (from AMD 225) Notebook from AMD 225 Sloper set made in AMD 225 (half & full scale) Awl French Curve Vary Form Curve B85 plastic ruler Measuring Tape Push Pins & Pincushion Twill tape Scotch Tape Disappearing Ink Marking Pen Sharpie Pen NOT Marker Tailor’s Chalk Pencil Long dressmaker steel pins with glass heads Fabric Shears Paper Scissors Tracing Wheel Seam Ripper Juki Bobbin Case & Bobbins Juki Zipper Feet Thimble Needles for hand stitching Muslin Tracing Paper Tracing Wheel Draping Muslin: 60” wide, 10-20yds Available at JoAnns, Hobby Lobby, Hancock Fabrics Cotton Knit Fabric 45”/60”, 2yds 3” binder for notebook Plastic sleeves to organize notebook Fashion fabric (there is some available for student use in the pattern room closet, please ask instructor) Findings for original designs

*This list is an estimate, more supplies could be required.

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Date Lab Activity Reading Assignment Assignment Due Week 1

August 22nd

Introduction - Syllabus

Draping Intro PPT

Laser cutting file project intro

pp. 6-13

Quiz 1: Monday & Wednesdays

readings opens

August 24th Assign dress forms

Demos:

- Form Prep: pg. 9 prep form with bust tape, waist

tape, hip tape

- Dart Variations – practice and prepare muslin per

page 42. Will work through as a group

- Transfer pattern to paper

Improvisation draping with 1 large piece of fabric.

302 – 314 306-307

pp. 18-25

pp. 42-43 Dart Variation

Prepare fabric approx.

36” wide x 50” long at

minimum.

Prep form – twill tape bust, waist,

HBL, pins at armholes.

Bring 2 yards muslin to practice

draping

August 26th Draping & Fitting

- Straight Skirt p. 96:

pp. 88-91

pp. 96-97

Quiz 1 closes

Laser Cut hanger file due on Cybox

Week 2

August 29th

Fit group evaluation & paper pattern transfer


Half scale – A line p.98

Half scale – A line

August 31st Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit check (if fit

off, do correction, drape, & sew up again prior to

turning in)


September 2nd Straight Skirt p.96 adjustments & sewing

Week 3

September 5th NO SCHOOL!!

September 7th Draping & Fitting

- Bias Circle Skirt p. 100

Fit group evaluation & paper pattern transfer


Half scale – 6 gore

pp. 100-101

Video: 24

Straight Skirt Fully sewn Muslin

Sample & Paper pattern due (half body)

Half scale – 6 gore

September 9th Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit check (if fit


turning in)


Week 4

September 12th

Draping & Fitting

- Yoke skirt w/ gathers & flare

pp. 110 - 111 Bias Skirt Fully sewn Muslin Sample &

Paper pattern due (half body)

September 14th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern transfer


Half scale – peg skirt p.102

Half scale – peg skirt p.102



turning in)


Half scale – skirt (your own design)

Half scale – skirt (your own design)

Week 5

September 19th

Draping & Fitting

- Classic bodice w/ bust dart

pp. 44-45

Video: 11, 12, 13

(drape with dart on back

at princess line NOT to

neckline)

114-117

Yoke Skirt Fully sewn Muslin Sample

& Paper pattern due (half body)

September 21st Fit group evaluation & paper pattern transfer

- Classic bodice w/ bust dart

Half scale – cowl neckline

Half scale – cowl neckline

September 23rd Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit check (if fit


turning in)

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Date Lab Activity Reading Assignment Assignment Due - Classic bodice w/ bust dart

Week 6

September 26th

Draping & Fitting

- Bodice w/ French Dart

pp. 46-47

Video: 14

Classic Bodice Fully sewn Muslin


September 28th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern transfer


Half scale – Princess line p.60

Half scale – Princess Line



turning in)


½ muslin drape on form at start of

class: Convertible Collar

Week 7

October 3rd

Draping & Fitting

- Bodice w/ armhole princess line

pp. 64-65 French Dart Fully sewn Muslin Sample


Quiz 2 opens

October 5th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern transfer


Half scale – Princess line into a yoke p.58

Half scale - Princess line into Yoke

October 7th Sew full garment w muslin (L&R) & fit check (if fit


turning in)


Half scale – Bodice (your own design)

Quiz 2 closes

Half scale – Bodice (your own design)

Week 8

October 10th

Draping & Fitting

- Basic Dress Foundation - drape

Half scale – Swing dress p.48

pp. 50-56

Video: 15, 16, 17, 18, 20

40-41

Armhole Princess Fully sewn Muslin


Half scale – Swing dress

October 12th Fit group evaluation & paper pattern transfer

- Basic Dress Foundation – paper transfer

Original Design – Introduce, 1 sketch time &

project intro

pp. 112-150

Review: Pattern Card

Information & Pattern

Procedure List

October 14th Straight Skirt Fully sewn Muslin Sample & Paper

pattern due (half body)

- Basic Dress Foundation

Original Design 1 – drape

Cost Sheet Overview –

bring print out for notes

Week 9

October 17th

Laser Cut Hangers

Full scale – collars mandarin p.146

Original Design 1 – drape

Basic Dress Fully sewn Muslin Sample


Full scale – mandarin collar

October 19th Original Design 1- drape & sew

October 21st Original Design 1- drape & sew

Full scale – peter pan p.148)

Full Scale – peter pan collar

Original Design 1 – 1st sample finished

for grading

Week 10

October 24th

Original Design 1- cut/sew

October 26th Original Design 1- sew fashion fabric

Full scale – convertible collar p.137

Full scale – convertible collar

October 28th Original Design 1 - Present Original Design 1

Week 11

October 31st

Original Design 2 - Knit Assigned

Half scale – cotton knit top p.188

pp. 186-201 Half scale – cotton knit top

November 2nd Original Design 2 – drape & sew

Half scale – knit wrap skirt (own design)

Half scale – knit wrap skirt

November 4th Original Design 2 – sew 1st sample Original Design 2 – 1st sample finished

for grading

Week 12

November 7th

Original Design 2 – cut/sew fashion fabric ITAA

November 9th Original Design 2 – sew fashion fabric ITAA

November 11th Original Design 2 – Present ITAA Original Knit Design 2

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Date Lab Activity Reading Assignment Assignment Due Week 13

November 14th

Bias Lecture

Half scale – large dress drape/bias (own design)

pp. 282-298

Half scale – large dress drape

November 16th Original Design 3 – Assigned, sketch & drape Sketch & fabrication for

Original Design 3

November 18th Original Design 3 – drape & sew

Week 12

November 21st

THANKSGIVING BREAK – NO SCHOOL

November 23rd

November 25th

Week 15

November 28th

Original Design 3 – sew 1st sample, adjustments Original Design 3 – 1st sample finished

for grading

November 30th Original Design 3 – cut/sew fashion fabric Notebook Due

December 2nd Original Design 3 – sew fashion fabric

Week 16

December 5th

Original Design 3 – Present

Design Challenge assigned

Original Bias/Large fabric Design 3

December 7th Design Challenge preparation

December 9th Design Challenge work

FINALS

WEEK

Wednesday Dec 14th 2:15-4:15 FINALS WEEK Design Challenge

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A M D 325 Patternmaking II Name:

*Straight grain at CF & CB Project: Straight Skirt

In class for draping work when assigned (late -1) 0 1 2

Full drape (R &L) on dress form by 8:15am for small group evaluations & feedback. If

not then 0 Time: ____________ Initials: ___________

0 1

In class for full sewing of R & L of garment and fit corrections (late -1) 0 1 2

Muslin Sample (Full R & L)

Pieces draped according textbook instructions. (seamlines correct locations, hem,

etc)

- Garment exhibits excellent fit on intended dress form/size

- Muslin is for R & L side (full garment)

0 0.5 1

Pencil markings extraordinarily neat & accurate 0 0.5 1

7”-9” zipper placed at CB, straight and secure 0 0.5 1

Seam allowances –appropriate, consistent and corresponding application. ¼” neckline,

1” hem, 1” at zipper closure, ½” all other areas including waistline & facing

0 0.5 1

All seams walk 0 0.5 1 2

All required marking & labels on each piece of muslin (neatly applied) - pattern number – pattern size – number to be cut from each fabric (ex: lining,

interfacing, etc.)

0 0.5 1 2

- name of pattern piece (ex: side front skirt) 0 0.5 1 2

- identification of your name or initials 0 0.5 1 2

- fabrication indicated (woven or knit) 0 0.5 1 2

-center front and center back are labeled “CF” and “CB” 0 0.5 1 2

- grainline is marked, extending from edge to edge. (red lengthwise grain, green

crosswise grain, arrows on grainline)

0 0.5 1 2

- thumbnail sketch is done (draw a small sketch to represent the finished garment on

ALL pattern pieces)

0 0.5 1 2

- transfer all necessary markings to muslin pieces, waistline, bust point, CF line, and

CB line, HBL, etc

0 0.5 1 2

Preparation – accurately cut muslin pieces.

- correct fabric, fabric prep, layout, and cutting procedures used, ironed

- transfer all necessary pattern markings to muslin pieces, including HBL, bust level

line, CF line, and CB line and waist line

0 0.5 1

Paper Patterns (right side of body)

1st ½ drape neatly and accurately transferred to the paper pattern, including

markings, labeling, notches, and burnholes.

0 0.5 1 2

All corresponding seams walk 0 0.5 1 2

All pattern pieces turned in (4 total: F/B facing, F/B skirt) 0 1 2

Grainlines marked (red lengthwise grain, green crosswise grain, arrows on grainline) 0 0.5 1

Paper patterns are accurately and neatly cut from pattern paper 0 1

Presentation-holes neatly and accurately punched on each pattern piece, in a uniform

location, with a rabbit punch

0 0.5 1

Presentation: 1 pattern hook with Patterns, 1 garment hanger with full R&L sewn

muslin

0 0.5 1

Pattern card-pattern card is neatly and accurately completed (pattern pieces, notions,

tech. flat, all computer generated), punched, and hanging from pattern hook

0 0.5 1 1.5 2

Total: /40

□ Check if you wish to receive detailed written feedback on your work.

14


*Straight grain at CF & CB, true bias at princess line, and crossgrain at SS Project: Bias Circle Skirt

In class for draping work when assigned 0 1 2



0 1

In class for full sewing of R & L of garment and fit corrections 0 1 2



etc)



0 0.5 1





0 0.5 1



interfacing, etc.)

0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1 2


ALL pattern pieces)

0 0.5 1 2


CB line, HBL, etc

0 0.5 1 2





0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1

2 pattern hooks: 1 with Patterns, 1 with full R&L sewn muslin 0 0.5 1



0 0.5 1 1.5 2

Total: /40


15


*Twill tape for yoke line BEFORE draping. Can use elastic to help hold gather

pieces. Straight grain at CF & CB. SS should be offgrain.

Project: Yoke Skirt w/

Flare




0 1




etc)



0 0.5 1





0 0.5 1



interfacing, etc.)

0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1 2


ALL pattern pieces)

0 0.5 1 2


CB line, HBL, etc

0 0.5 1 2





0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 1.5 2

Total: /40


16


*DON’T drape collar/tie piece. Make neckline facing instead. Also dart at back

shoulder should be on princess line NOT pointing toward neckline. Remember to

drape overlap/underlap for button placket at CF. (1” Placket overlap & 1” under)

Project: Bodice w/ Bust

Dart




0 1




etc)



0 0.5 1


Zipper placket placed at CF, straight and secure 0 0.5 1



0 0.5 1



interfacing, etc.)

0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1 2


ALL pattern pieces)

0 0.5 1 2


CB line, HBL, etc

0 0.5 1 2





0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 2


All pattern pieces turned in (4 total: F/B facing, F/B bodice) 0 1 2





0 0.5 1

2 pattern hooks: 1 with Patterns, 1 with full R&L sewn 0 0.5 1



0 0.5 1 1.5 2

Total: /40


17


*French Dart should go into side seam NOT waistline! Project: French Dart




0 1




etc)



0 0.5 1


Appropriate length zipper placed at CB, straight and secure 0 0.5 1



0 0.5 1



interfacing, etc.)

0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1 2


ALL pattern pieces)

0 0.5 1 2


CB line, HBL, etc

0 0.5 1 2





0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 1.5 2

Total: /40


18


*Twill tape for styleline from waist to bust point over to armhole on FT & BK Project: Armhole

Princess




0 1




etc)



0 0.5 1


Appropriate length zipper placed at CB, straight and secure 0 0.5 1



0 0.5 1



interfacing, etc.)

0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1 2


ALL pattern pieces)

0 0.5 1 2


CB line, HBL, etc

0 0.5 1 2





0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 2


All pattern pieces turned in (6 total: F/B facing, F/B CF/CB bodice, F/B Side

bodices)

0 1 2





0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 1.5 2

Total: /40


19


*1 fisheye dart on FT princess line, FT dart from bust to side seam. 2 fisheye darts on

back (1 on princess and 2nd between princess & side seam) Princess dart should be

longer.

Project: Basic Dress

Foundation


Full drape (R &L) on dress form by 8:15am for small group evaluations & feedback. If not

then 0 Time: ____________ Initials: ___________

0 1



Pieces draped according textbook instructions. (seamlines correct locations, hem, etc)



0 0.5 1


Appropriate length zipper placed at CB, from top neckline to 7”-9” below waist. Sewn

straight and secure

0 0.5 1

Seam allowances –appropriate, consistent and corresponding application. ¼” neckline &

armhole, 2” hem, 1” Side Seams, 1” at zipper closure, ½” all other areas including

waistline & facing

0 0.5 1

All seams walk (walk from waist up, and waist down to ensure waistline matches up) 0 0.5 1 2


interfacing, etc.)

0 0.5 1 2







0 0.5 1 2


ALL pattern pieces)

0 0.5 1 2

- transfer all necessary markings to muslin pieces, waistline, bust point, CF line, and CB

line, HBL, etc

0 0.5 1 2





0 0.5 1




0 0.5 1 2

All corresponding seams walk (walk from waist up, and waist down to ensure waistline

matches up)

0 0.5 1 2






0 0.5 1


Pattern card-pattern card is neatly and accurately completed (pattern pieces, notions, tech.

flat, all computer generated), punched, and hanging from pattern hook

0 0.5 1 1.5 2

Total: /40


20

AMD 325

Original Design I

Purpose: To drape a 1st sample (muslin OR like production fabric) and sew a production sample

(fashion fabric) of a sleevesless bodice. Must use woven fabric. No more than 25% on

bias

Project Overview:

This project will allow each student to explore using draping skills to create a bodice in like

fashion fabric of choice then translate the design to fashion fabric. A presentation will be required

and submitted via Cybox along with all paper work (refer to grade sheet) submitted with a rabbit

punch attached to the hanger holding the final garment.

Criteria for the Design can include the following (some are optional):

Upper torso coverage

Facings, lining or bias bindings – where appropriate

Collar - optional

Sleeve(s) – optional but NOT required

Shaping Devices – optional as needed

Closures – Buttons or Zippers where appropriate

Part of the garment is draped on the bias – optional

Unique Design Lines

1st Sample Grade Sheet

Stages of Production Points Possible

1. 1st Sample (sewn with like final fashion fabric NOT muslin)

Sewn with appropriate stitches & seams 10

Includes appropriate finishes & closures 10

Seam allowances are finished appropriately 10

i. Lining where appropriate, hand stitching where necessary

Neatness & Pressing 5

Design meets the Criteria 5

20

(-10 points if

incomplete in

any fashion)

21

AMD 325

Original Design I

Project 1 Final Sample Grade Sheet


2. PowerPoint Presentation to include

Inspiration Source

Target Market: Age, Gender, Leisure Activities, Income, Education, Shopping

Habits, Geographic Location

Pricing Guide

Photos of process and design

Technical Sketches Front & Back

Fully colored illustrations Front & Back

Presentation layout, background, etc should reflect design and TM

10

3. Production Pattern

Transfer the 1st Sample Drape to Pattern Paper

Patternmaker’s name

Include the following on all pieces as appropriate:

Seam allowances – ¼” at neckline & armhole if sleeveless, ½” all other areas,

1” at zippers and if high end larger SA necessary

Drill Holes, bust point, etc

Notches

Grainlines

Labeling: Dress Form #, Pattern Piece, Size, Date, Cut, Etc

10

4. Production Sample




ii. Lining where appropriate, hand stitching where necessary



40

5. Presentation & Paperwork – typed & turned in

Pattern Card (5 pts)

Price Sheet (10 pts)

define the materials needed to create the product

list sources for the materials

Dressing the part during your presentation and selling your design (5pts)

20

Total /80

22

AMD 325

Original Design 2

Purpose: To drape a 1st sample and sew a production sample of a dress, bottom & top, bottom &

cardigan, etc made from knit fabric. *Create an ensemble.

Project Overview:

This project will introduce students to cut and sew knits by allowing each student to explore

garment design using draping skills and create an ensemble in a knit like fashion fabric, then

translate the design to knit fashion fabric. A presentation will be required and submitted via

Cybox along with all paper work submitted with a rabbit punch attached to the hanger holding

the final garment.

Criteria for the Design can include the following (some are optional):Dress

Knit fabric of students choice

Facings, bias bindings, or waistband – as necessary

Closures – Buttons or Zippers as necessary

Unique Design Lines



1 1st Sample (sewn with like fashion fabric NOT muslin)




iii. Lining where appropriate, hand stitching where necessary



20

(-10 points if

incomplete in

any fashion)

23

AMD 325

Original Design 2

Project 2 Final Sample Grade Sheet


2 PowerPoint Presentation to include

Inspiration Source



Pricing Guide





10

3 Production Pattern







Notches

Grainlines


10

4 Production Sample


Includes appropriate finishes & closures (as necessary) 10


iv. Lining where appropriate, hand stitching where necessary



40

5 Presentation & Paperwork – typed & turned in






20

Total /80

24

AMD 325

Original Design 3

Purpose: To drape a 1st sample (muslin OR like production fabric) and sew a production sample of

a dress (bias OR large piece of fabric with minimal cuts in essence challenging

movement of fabric)

Project Overview:

This project will allow each student to explore using draping skills to create a dress with 50%

draped on the bias in like fashion fabric, then translate the design to fashion fabric. A

presentation will be required and submitted via Cybox along with all paper work submitted with a

rabbit punch attached to the hanger holding the final garment.

Criteria for the Design can include the following (some are optional): Bias draped/working with large

piece of fabric.

Sleeve(s) - optional

Collar – optional

Shaping Devices - optional

Facings, linings or bias bindings – either needs to have a full lining, or facing with lining.

Closures – Buttons or Zippers as necessary

50% of the design must be on the bias

Unique Design Lines



1 1st Sample (sewn with like fashion fabric NOT muslin)




v. Lining where appropriate, hand stitching where necessary



20

(-10 points if

incomplete in

any fashion)

25

AMD 325

Original Design 3

3rd Design Final Sample Grade Sheet


2 PowerPoint Presentation to include

Inspiration Source



Pricing Guide





10

3 Production Pattern







Notches

Grainlines


10

4 Production Sample




vi. Lining where appropriate, hand stitching where necessary



40

5 Presentation & Paperwork – typed & turned in






20

Total /80

26

AMD 325 Draping Problems Notebook Name ________________________

Turn in this form to have your project graded

Evaluation Category Points Possible

Points Earned

Comments & Suggestions

Organization

Table of Contents (10 points given based

off organization)

3 Ring Binder (5 points)

Clear Plastic Sleeves to hold all items listed

below (10 points)

/25

Full Scale Draping Problems

7 Pattern Cards PC (7 points)

7 Grade Sheets GS (7 points)

7 1st sample Muslin Drapes MD (1/2 body)

(14 points)

7 full body Muslin Drapes sewn MS (14

points)

7 Paper Patterns sets PP(14 points)

Include all assignments listed below

Straight Skirt

/56

PC GS MD MS PP

Bias Circle Skirt

Princess Line into a Yoke

Classic Bodice w/ Bust Dart

Bodice w/ French Dart

Armhole Princess Bodice

Basic Dress Foundation

Half/Full Scale Draping Problems

Include 15 half scale drape assignments

draped in muslin & transferred to paper

patterns (in half scale) (1pt for muslin, 1

pt for paper transfer

A-line

/30

Muslin Paper Pattern

6 gore

Peg Skirt

Skirt (own design)

Cowl Neckline

Princess Line

Princess Line into Yoke

Bodice (own design)

Swing Dress

Mandarin Collar (full scale and with

inner collar)

Peter Pan Collar (full scale and with

under collar favored)

27

Convertible Collar (full scale and

with under collar favored)

Cotton Knit top

Knit wrap skirt (own design)

Large dress drape/Bias (own design)

Seams & Hand Stitching Techniques

Includes 5 samples done in class and 5

others from text provided in class & on own

research. (10 total samples, 2 points each)

5 in class: French Seam, Swing Tack,

Blind Catchstitch, smocking, fabric

manipulation

5 on own

/20

GRADE SHEET IN NOTEBOOK /4

TOTAL POINTS /135

28

Rules for Use – Body Forms

AMD 325 Spring 2016

Instructor Copy

I agree to use the forms in the industrial production lab with responsibility and consideration. I understand that the forms are essential to the success of all design students, and that my actions impact the success of everyone using the lab.

I agree not to remove the waistline tape or the essential guide pins from the form. If I notice that these are missing, I will notify an instructor so they can be replaced.

I agree that if I remove the bust bridge tape while I am using the form, that I will replace it when I am finished.

I know that the form is not a pincushion. I will not leave pins in the form when I am not actively using it.

I agree that when using the forms, I will not use any markers or other similar materials that may bleed through fabric and stain the forms.

When I am finished using the form, I agree to return the shoulders to their expanded position as well as drop the form to the lowest normal position. This puts significantly less stress on the form, ensuring the longest possible useful lifespan.

I agree that I will not leave my materials on a form when I am not actively using it. This includes, but is not limited to, pins, style tapes, muslin, and fashion fabric. If it is absolutely essential to my design that I leave materials on a form between work sessions, I understand that I must check with an instructor first. Only an instructor can grant permission to leave materials on the form, and any materials left on a form must be accompanied by a note from an instructor.

I agree that when I am done working with a form, I will roll it to an appropriate location – room 2063 against the north, east, and west walls.

I agree to record the form number I am using when I come in for open lab hours. I agree to inform instructors immediately if I noticed any damage on a form. I agree that if I am found responsible for damaging a form in a manner that necessitates its

replacement, I may be held responsible for that cost. Depending on the type of form, this cost may fall into the range of $800-$2500.

I agree not to move the forms to any rooms aside from 2051, 2061, or 2063 LeBaron Hall without instructor permission.

I have been informed of the above rules and agree to abide by them when using the bodyforms in 2051, 2061, and 2063 Le Baron Hall. __________ ___________________________ ______________________ Date Signature Printed Name

29

Rules for Use – Body Forms

AMD 325 Spring 2016

Student Copy

I agree to use the forms in the industrial production lab with responsibility and consideration. I understand that the forms are essential to the success of all design students, and that my actions impact the success of everyone using the lab.

I agree not to remove the waistline tape or the essential guide pins from the form. If I notice that these are missing, I will notify an instructor so they can be replaced.

I agree that if I remove the bust bridge tape while I am using the form, that I will replace it when I am finished.

I know that the form is not a pincushion. I will not leave pins in the form when I am not actively using it.

I agree that when using the forms, I will not use any markers or other similar materials that may bleed through fabric and stain the forms.

When I am finished using the form, I agree to return the shoulders to their expanded position as well as drop the form to the lowest normal position. This puts significantly less stress on the form, ensuring the longest possible useful lifespan.

I agree that I will not leave my materials on a form when I am not actively using it. This includes, but is not limited to, pins, style tapes, muslin, and fashion fabric. If it is absolutely essential to my design that I leave materials on a form between work sessions, I understand that I must check with an instructor first. Only an instructor can grant permission to leave materials on the form, and any materials left on a form must be accompanied by a note from an instructor.

I agree that when I am done working with a form, I will roll it to an appropriate location – room 2063 against the north, east, and west walls.

I agree to record the form number I am using when I come in for open lab hours. I agree to inform instructors immediately if I noticed any damage on a form. I agree that if I am found responsible for damaging a form in a manner that necessitates its

replacement, I may be held responsible for that cost. Depending on the type of form, this cost may fall into the range of $800-$2500.

I agree not to move the forms to any rooms aside from 2051, 2061, or 2063 LeBaron Hall without instructor permission.

I have been informed of the above rules and agree to abide by them when using the bodyforms in 2051, 2061, and 2063 Le Baron Hall. __________ ___________________________ ______________________ Date Signature Printed Name

30

Patternmaking Checklist Patternmaking symbols, such as notches, burn holes (punch holes), and circles are a means of

communicating the work of the patternmaker, the designer, the marker maker, and production personnel. Missing or incorrect pattern markings and labels cost a company time and money. Therefore, it is important to go through this checklist on each pattern piece you complete.

For future on-the-job use: If the suggested pattern information differs from that of the company’s standards, defer to the company’s standard.

General Guidelines: ______ Neat workmanship is essential.

______ Always draft 1st patterns for the right side of the body

______ Always draft without seam allowances.

______ Patterns are on pattern paper

______ Slopers are on tag board and include left & right sides

______ Trueing: Establishing correct seam lengths—for example, trueing a side seam having a side dart.

______ Blending: The smoothing and straightening of pencil lines, cross marks, and dot marks

______ Walking: Making seam lines that sew together equal lengths

______ Balancing: Making seam lines that sew together matching shapes (side seams only)

Grainline ______ Must be drawn on each pattern piece.

______ Must be 2” away from the CF or CB line.

______ Must indicate how the pattern should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric.

______ Grain line should extend from edge to edge

______ Grain line arrows (1 OR 2 below):

1. Arrows placed at both ends the pattern may be placed in either direction along the lengthwise grain line of the fabric (for fabrics without a nap).

2. An arrow placed at the top or the bottom the pattern must be placed in one direction only (for fabrics with a nap).

Labeling ______ Write or print pattern information clearly.

______ Mark all pattern pieces in a consistent location.

______ Pattern information should be on the right-side-up of each pattern piece.

______ Pattern number - size - number to cut : along grain line

273 - 8 - 2

______ Name of pattern piece

______ Your name

______ Each pattern piece should be labeled with CF (Center Front) and CB (Center Back) as appropriate.

______ Fold lines: dotted line . . . . . . . . . .

______ Gathers: dashed line ------------

______ Buttonhole [--------] and button x

31

______ Each pattern should be labeled with a thumbnail sketch of the finished design on the main pattern piece.

______ Fabrication - woven or knit

______ “Right-side-up”: Indicates to the marker maker that the pattern is to be placed face up on the marker (for asymmetrical designs).

______ Each pattern should be drafted and labeled in the color corresponding to the material it is to be cut from: Pencil/Black = Self, Red= Interfacing, Green=Lining, Purple = Combination.

Landmarks ______ Bust Apex: All front bodice pieces should be marked with an “X” on the bust apex.

______ Shoulder Level: All back bodice pieces should be marked with a horizontal line, ¼ of the length of the back below the neckline, perpendicular to the center, labeled “Shoulder Level”.

______ Bicep Level: All sleeve pieces should be marked with a horizontal line across the widest part of the bicep perpendicular to the center, labeled “Bicep Level”.

______ Hip Level: All skirt/trouser pieces should be marked with a horizontal line across the widest part of the hip perpendicular to the center, labeled “Hip Level”.

Square Perpendicular Seams

(unless purposefully planned by the designer to be on an angle)

______ CF Neckline: ¼” On a symmetrical pattern, this correlates to ¼” right and ¼” left or ½” total.

______ CB Neckline: ¼” ( ½” total)

______ Armhole SS: ¼” (½” total)

______ CF Waistline: ½” (1” total)

______ CB Waistline: ½” (1” total)

Front Bodice Dart Point Locations

(Refer to AMD 225 textbook: Joseph-Armstrong, 2010, pp. 41 and 44)

______ When using one-dart front bodice sloper (and all other sloper patterns except the two-dart front bodice sloper) to develop a new design, back-off developed dart points from the bust apex by ½”.

______ When using two-dart front bodice sloper to develop a new design, back-off the waist dart point from the bust apex by ¾”. The side dart is backed-off depending on the bust cup size; A cup—¾”, B cup—1”, C cup—1 ½” and D cup—1 ¾”. Darts that are positioned above the side dart location are treated the same as a side dart.

Burn holes (aka punch holes)

(Refer to AMD 225 textbook: Joseph-Armstrong, 2010, p. 4)

______ Place and circle a burn hole, ½” from the end of each dart point. For double ended darts (fisheye darts), also place a burn hole ½” in from the widest point of the dart on either side.

______ Place and circle a burn hole, ” in from each end of a pocket or other trim placement.

______ Place and circle two burn holes for tuck darts; ½” below the finish length, mark one burn hole along the center fold and the other ” inside the stitchline. (Refer to textbook: Joseph-Armstrong, 2010, pp. 100 and 105)

Notch Locations (Refer to AMD 225 textbook: Joseph-Armstrong, 2010, p. 4)

______ Seam Allowance: One end of each seamline only. Should be the side the seamstress would start sewing the seam from. Try to avoid notching both sides of a corner.

32

______ Hemlines: A notch should be placed on both side seams marking the hemline on each pattern piece with a hem allowance.

______ Notch connecting points on stylelines. Use a single notch on front pattern pieces. Use a double notch on back pattern pieces

______ Center Front & Center Back

______ Dart Legs: Use a single notch to mark each dart leg where it intersects with the edge of the pattern piece.

______ Ease/Gathers: Mark with a single notch where the gathers start and end on a pattern piece. Draw a dashed line 1/8” away from the seam line inside seam allowance between the start and end gather notches. The pattern piece that corresponds (i.e., the piece that will be joined with the gathered/eased piece) should have corresponding notches.

______ Joining Parts: Mark corresponding pattern pieces where pieces join together, (i.e. side seams, shoulder seams, waist seam, etc.)

______ Zipper: Place a triple notch to indicate the location of the end of the zipper.

______ Foldbacks: A notch should be placed at both ends of a piece that has an extended facing.

______ Waist Level: A notch should be placed on both side seams marking the waistline on pattern pieces extending below waist level (i.e. torso, jacket, dress, etc.)

______ Knee Level: A notch should be placed on both side seams marking knee level on pattern pieces extending below knee level (i.e. dress, skirt, trouser, etc.)

______ Elbow Level: A notch should be placed on both side seams marking elbow.

______ Armhole: A single notch is usually placed on the front armhole (4” from the armscye/underarm intersection). A double notch is usually placed on the back armhole (4 ¼” from the armscye/underarm intersection).

______ Sleeve: Notches should also be placed on the sleeve to correspond with the front and back armhole notches.

______ Sleeve: A single notch is usually placed where the sleeve will meet the shoulder seamline.

Seam Allowances Outline ALL seam allowances (for classroom purposes).

(Unless otherwise instructed, the following seam allowances will be considered as standard for this course)

______ Neckline (joining to facing): ¼”

______ Neckline (with collar): ½”

______ Armhole (sleeveless, joining to facing): ¼”

______ Armholes (with sleeves): ½”

______ Sleeve: ½”

______ Enclosed Seams (joining facings/linings): ¼”

______ Tight curves: ¼”

______ Shoulder: ½”

______ Waistline: ½”

______ Style lines: ½”

______ Narrow Rolled Hemlines: ½”

______ Center Front: 1”

33

______ Center Back: 1”

______ Side Seams: 1”

______ Zippers: 1”

______ Hemlines: 2”

Rabbit Punch Hole ______ All full-scale pattern pieces should be punched with the rabbit hole punch in a consistent

location to allow for tidy storage.

Pattern Hooks ______ All corresponding full-scale pattern pieces should be hung on a single pattern hook for

submission.

Pattern Record Card ______ Each pattern should be submitted with a Pattern Record Card, the pattern record card is the

first part of the technical design pack and helps transfer important information about the design to all members of the production team. The pattern record card should be typed.

______ Designer Name Your name.

______ Style Number Corresponds to the style number written on all related pattern pieces.

______ Yardage Amount of fabric required to construct the design.

______ Date

______ Technical Flat A technical (flat) illustration of the garment, both front and back, including seams, closures, and other details.

______ # Indicates the number of pattern pieces included in the design packet when each pattern piece is listed on a separate line.

______ Pattern Piece Identifies the included pattern pieces (i.e. Front Bodice, Back Bodice, Front Neckline Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Breast Pocket, Breast Pocket Flap). Corresponds to the pattern name written on each pattern piece.

______ # to Cut Indicates the number of pieces to cut in the fabric of each pattern piece.

______ Notions List the size/number of any notions or trims necessary to complete the design (i.e. 1 – 9” invisible zipper, 3 – ½” shank buttons, 1 ¼” yard sequin elastic)

______ Swatch Include a 2” square swatch of the desired

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