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[Type text] Page 1 “STANDARDIZATION OF SEWING OPERATIONS, CODES AND MAKING VIDEO GALLERY‟‟ A Dissertation Submitted in Partial Fulfilment of the Requirement for the Award of Degree in Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production) Submitted by ABHISHEK CHOWBEY Under the guidance of Mr. T S PRAKASH Department of Fashion Technology, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai May, 2016

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“STANDARDIZATION OF SEWING OPERATIONS,

CODES AND MAKING VIDEO GALLERY‟‟

A Dissertation Submitted in Partial Fulfilment of the Requirement for the

Award of Degree in

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted by

ABHISHEK CHOWBEY

Under the guidance of

Mr. T S PRAKASH

Department of Fashion Technology,

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai

May, 2016

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ABSTRACT

This project documents the efforts to standardize and digitalize the sewing operations and

create a web page based video gallery and also standardize the operation codes. The project

majorly includes development of standardized sewing operation codes for the ease of

understanding and its use as standards for the overall manufacturing units associated.

Standardization of operations by doing the motion study of the selected operations on various

operators and analysing their way of performing an operation and suggesting them the most

appropriate way with the help of comparisons done. This helped to overcome the time loss

obtained due to non-value added activities performed and will also increase the worker's

efficiency. Finally, this lead to the development of a webpage based video library that will

eventually help in the training purpose of the operators.

The standardization of codes is be done by the help of an excel based software which

generates a unique code for a particular operation so that expats from any part of the world do

not get confused over same operation because of the operation name by which they relate to

that particular operation.

The Excel based code generator software also helps in making operation bulletin, line

balancing and SAM calculation.

A folder system was installed on fusing machine resulting in reduction of man power for that

particular style.

Keywords: standardize, sewing operations, web page, video gallery, operation codes, motion

study, efficiency, expats, operation name, operation bulletin, line balancing, SAM.

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CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that this project report entitled “Standardization of Sewing Operations,

Codes and Making Video Gallery” is based on my, Abhishek Chowbey’s original work,

conducted under the guidance of Mr T S Prakash towards the partial fulfilment of the

requirement for award of the Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel

Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai.

No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed

has been duly acknowledged.

Signature of Author

Signature of Guide

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This report has been prepared for the graduation project in partial fulfilment of the

Bachelor’s Degree in Fashion Technology from National Institute of Fashion Technology,

Mumbai. The project on “Standardization of Sewing Operations, Codes and Making Video

Gallery” has been conducted in M R S Fashions W.L.L in order to standardize the sewing

operation, operation codes and making a video gallery. The Excel based code generator

software also helps in making operation bulletin, line balancing and SAM calculation. I have

successfully completed my project and compiled this report as the summary and the

conclusion that has been drawn from the graduation project experience.

I would like to thank Mr. T S Prakash (Asso. Professor), my faculty guide for constant

encouragement and helping hand whenever I needed, as well as my faculties Dr. A.k Khare

(Professor), Mrs. Kavita Pathare (Asst. Professor), Mr. Ranjan Saha (Asso. Professor), Ms.

Aboli Naik (Asst. Professor), Mr. Nitin Salve (Asst. Professor) for their help in improving my

project.

I am immensely grateful to the Director of NIFT, Mumbai Smt. NILIMA RANI SINGH and to

the whole college administration for giving me such an opportunity to explore and gain

knowledge during the course.

I am immensely grateful to the management of M R S Fashions W.L.L, especially to Mr Rahul

Kumar, IE Manager, for his help and guidance throughout our project.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. INTRODUCTION................................................................................................................ 7

1.1 TITLE OF THE PROJECT ...................................................................................................... 8

1.2 NEED OF THE PROJECT ...................................................................................................... 8

1.3 OBJECTIVES OF THE PROJECT ............................................................................................ 9

1.3.1 Primary Objective ..................................................................................................... 9

1.3.2 Secondary Objectives ................................................................................................ 9

1.3 BACKGROUND (THE EVOLUTION OF GARMENT INDUSTRY) ............................................ 10

2. LITERATURE REVIEW ................................................................................................. 12

2.1 CASE STUDY I ................................................................................................................. 13

2.2 CASE STUDY II ................................................................................................................ 14

2.3 CONCLUSION ................................................................................................................... 15

2.4 RELATED TERMS ............................................................................................................. 16

2.4.1 WORK STANDARDIZATION ........................................................................................... 16

2.4.2 WORK STUDY .............................................................................................................. 16

2.4.2.1 Method Study ....................................................................................................... 17

2.4.3 STANDARDIZED CODE .................................................................................................. 20

2.4.4 HTML ........................................................................................................................... 20

2.4.5 MICROSOFT EXCEL ...................................................................................................... 20

3. METHODOLOGY ............................................................................................................ 21

3.1 PROCESS FLOW ............................................................................................................... 23

3.1.1 Understanding The Process .................................................................................... 24

3.1.2 Defining Areas of Concern ..................................................................................... 24

3.1.3 Collect and Analyse Data ....................................................................................... 24

3.1.4 Developing a Solution ............................................................................................. 24

3.1.5 Test Run .................................................................................................................. 25

3.1.6 Compare Performance of the New Process with the Previous Process ................. 25

3.2 RESOURCES USED ........................................................................................................... 25

4. IMPLEMENTATION ....................................................................................................... 26

PHASE I: STANDARDIZATION OF SEWING OPERATIONS .................................... 29

4.1 STANDARDIZATION OF SEWING OPERATIONS .................................................................. 30

4.1.1 Methodology ........................................................................................................... 30

PHASE II: STANDARDIZATION OF OPERATION CODES ........................................ 43

4.2 STANDARDIZATION OF OPERATION CODES ...................................................................... 44

4.2.1 Methodology ........................................................................................................... 44

PHASE III: WEB PAGE BASED VIDEO GALLERY ..................................................... 50

4.3 WEBPAGE BASED VIDEO GALLERY ................................................................................ 51

4.3.1 Methodology ........................................................................................................... 51

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PHASE IV: MAKING OF FOLDER SYSTEM ON FUSING MACHINE...................... 54

4.4 FUSING MACHINE FOLDER ..................................................................................... 55

4.4.1 Panel Details ........................................................................................................... 55

4.4.2 Problem Faced ........................................................................................................ 55

4.4.3 Earlier Process ....................................................................................................... 55

4.4.4 Improved Process.................................................................................................... 56

4.4.5 Results ..................................................................................................................... 61

5. LIMITATIONS OF THE PROJECT .............................................................................. 62

6. FUTURE SCOPE OF THE PROJECT ........................................................................... 64

7. BIBLIOGRAPHY .............................................................................................................. 66

8. APPENDICES .................................................................................................................... 73

APPENDIX A .......................................................................................................................... 74

APPENDIX B .......................................................................................................................... 75

APPENDIX C .......................................................................................................................... 76

APPENDIX D .......................................................................................................................... 77

APPENDIX E .......................................................................................................................... 78

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1. INTRODUCTION

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1.1 TITLE OF THE PROJECT

The project conducted in The Company, helps standardize operations and its codes, and also

helps in training purpose of new operators; it also helps in generating OB, SAM and performs

line balancing. It is entitled “Standardization of Sewing Operations, Codes and Making Video

Gallery”

1.2 NEED OF THE PROJECT

As the company is currently shifting its sewing line from one country base to another, and

work on the same styles is going at three different places a basic understanding of operations

is required for the operators as well as the management staff at all these places. As the

management staffs and even the operators are from different parts of India as well as from

different countries. The operation name is different in every part and it is difficult to

understand. This creates a lot of confusion. This problem is sorted by the “CODE

GENERATOR” as it provides a standardized code of every operation thus eliminating the

confusion. It also helps to create the operation bulletin of any new style. The code will also

solve the problem of line balancing, and help to generate Operation Bulletin and SAM value.

STANDARDIZATION OF SEWING OPERATIONS is required because a standard

procedure for a particular operation needs to be followed by all the operators. Operator use

different ways of doing work and all of them cannot be correct. This will give the minimum

time in which it can be done with the best efficiency so that any production loss that is

happening due to the shifting can be overcome in some way as well these operations work in

parallel with the efficiency of the line.

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Lot of new operators are going to be employed for the new unit, Training of these operator

with help of proper videos of operations in the form of “WEBPAGE VIDEO GALLERY”,

which are segregated by different styles will help to save the available time of currently

working operators and it will also give them a clear picture of how a process can be done by

adding minimum amount of non-value added work.

1.3 OBJECTIVES OF THE PROJECT

1.3.1 PRIMARY OBJECTIVE

I. Standard codes for each operations

To standardize the codes of each operations being performed, so that it is easier to

understand the details about that particular operation.

II. Standardization of the critical sewing operations

Different operator‟s use different methods to perform a particular operation, all of

them cannot be correct. So a standardized set of motions need to be made for

performing particular operation.

III. Developing a video gallery for training purpose

As I know that the company is shifting from Bahrain to Oman. There will be a need to

train new operators and the webpage based video gallery will be beneficial for the

same.

1.3.2 SECONDARY OBJECTIVES

i. To generate operation bulletin, SAM for particular garment

ii. To perform line balancing

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1.3 BACKGROUND (THE EVOLUTION OF GARMENT INDUSTRY)

Prior to the industrial revolution in the late 17th

century, making fabric was a time taking and

labour intensive process. The textile industry was one of the first industries that the industrial

revolution mechanised. Garment manufacturing, though, is still a labour intensive industry

(“Apparel and Textiles: Background”, 2015).

Before the Civil War in the US in the 1800s, both men and woman wore clothes that were

custom made or sewn at home. The army uniform was custom made at the soldiers‟ home by

tailors with a government contract. With the increase in demand for uniforms during the war,

factories making uniforms came up. The manufacturers found a need to make standard sizes

and before long people realised that certain measurements tended to recur with predictable

regularity.

Mass production for women‟s garments came in much later, with women wearing customised

clothes well into the 1920s. With the rise of the advertising industry, the growth of an urban

professional class, and the development of national markets accessed through chain stores

and mail order catalogues, women preferred to buy readymade clothes (Barker, 2012).

Imports increased as the demand for products of better value increased. 12% of the apparels

sold in the US were imported in 1975. In 10 years, the import doubled and by the mid-1990s,

retailers in the US and Europe were importing half the products they sold

In the 1950s and 1960s production moved from North America and Western Europe to Japan.

Production moved to Hong Kong, Taiwan and South Korea in the next decade. Between the

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late 1980s and 1990s, garments were being outsourced from China, South East Asia and Sri

Lanka. During the 1990s, garment manufacturing was focused on the Americas: Mexico and

the Caribbean (Dicken, 2003).

Today the apparel industry is a fast-moving, dynamic industry spread across the globe.

Globally, it employees approximately 75 million people and is worth 1 trillion USD.

The industry has switched now to fast fashion. The old model, where retailers placed huge

orders six to nine months in advance, is now being replaced by lead time as short as 75-90

days and smaller orders (Holmes, 2010, Karekatti, 2015). As a result, the profit margin of

garment manufacturing units has decreased considerably. This gives the manufacturing units

a need to minimize wastes by better utilization of human resource.

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2. LITERATURE REVIEW

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2.1 CASE STUDY I

TOPIC: A research on the effect of method study on production volume and assembly line

efficiency. By- Mahmut Kayar (18.06.2014)

ABSTRACT: In this research, the operations in blouse sewing line are analysed critically

and the results of method study which is applied on four operations are investigated.

Following that, assembly line balancing is conducted by using Ranked Positional Weight

Method considering operation durations which are obtained from method study and current

operation times. The aim of this research is to analyse the effects of method study on

production volume and assembly line efficiency and to indicate the importance of method

studies.

RESULT: In this work, operations which are carried out in blouse sewing were examined

with a critical eye. Method study is applied on operations which are suitable for to be

improved. After the method study on current output and assembly line efficiencies are

examined.

When the effect of the method study on assembly line efficiency is analysed, it can be seen

that improvements of operations and increase in duration have positive impact on assembly

line efficiency. It can be concluded that 15 workstations are necessary for assembly line

balancing which is designed by considering present condition and assembly line efficiency is

calculated as 67.32%. It can be seen from the study of assembly line balancing which is

conducted after method study that 13 workstations are necessary and assembly line efficiency

is 75.15 %. This rate shows that assembly line efficiency increases in 7.83%. However it is

appeared that performing the operations “sewing shoulder” and “assembling cuff to sleeve”

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separately which are normally performed as a single operation enables to decrease the

number of work stations in assembly line balancing.

2.2 CASE STUDY II

TOPIC: The use of Work Study Techniques in Optimizing Manufacturing Plant

Maintenance Processes: an Investigation into a Fertilizer Manufacturing Company in

Zimbabwe. By- Mutombozana Tapiwa, Chikuku Tauyanashe, Mugwindiri Kumbirayi

(India Online ISSN: 2319-7064)

ABSTRACT: This paper explores the use of work study techniques in the optimization of

manufacturing plant maintenance processes. An overview of work study strategies from

literature is first done and then performance indices for maintenances practices are explored.

Recommendations for production and other services like supplies and logistics and human

resources that support the maintenance function were done. Plant availability, downtime and

quality performance figures taken from January to December 2011 have indicated that the

company is indeed experiencing problems. Overall, the maintenance system is ineffective.

The research managed to bring out some of the causes of the ineffectiveness of the

maintenance system.

RESULT: Plant availability, downtime and quality performance figures taken from January

to December 2011 have indicated that the company is indeed experiencing problems. Overall,

the maintenance system is ineffective. The research managed to bring out some of the causes

of the ineffectiveness of the maintenance system. Lack of maintenance policy to guide the

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engineering section on how they operate contributed to most of the challenges being

experienced.

The purpose of a maintenance system is to minimize or reduce the duration of breakdowns

thereby increasing plant availability. An effective maintenance system will help to meet or

surpass company targets. Fluctuations in availability and productivity can only be attributed

to major breakdowns or recurrent minor ones.

The three main areas that may be improved in the fertilizer manufacturing plant maintenance

system through ergonomics to make-up a workplace that is safe, healthy and productive and

address research objectives of improved product quality, improved efficiency, reduced

downtime, improved employee morale, reduced turn over and absenteeism, reduction of

occupational injuries and illness and decreasing the loss of law materials are.

Work force

Work station

Work process

2.3 CONCLUSION

The case study conclude that: The apparel industry in India is largely driven by small and

medium enterprises (SMEs). The textile and apparel industry totally account for 4% of

India‟s GDP (“Indian Textiles and Clothing Exports”, 2015).

India is the world‟s ninth largest exporter of apparels, according to the WTO in 2012.

With competitors like China, facing serious labour problems, and Myanmar and Bangladesh

facing non-compliance issues; India‟s apparel export market is growing. Indian

manufacturing facilities export to the US, Europe, Japan and several other countries. With

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increasing demand, companies must be able to compete. Managing the production floor must

be done skilfully to increase profit margins as much as possible (“India‟s exports soar”. 2014)

Through the case studies it can be understood that Method study is an important tool to

standardize the working procedure for every industry including the garment sector. Most of

the garment unit are unaware of the benefits of method study and thus lacks standardize

working procedures.

Although my project was done for an export house situated in Bahrain, but excel based

software which has been created during the graduation project can also be implemented to

export houses situated in India and can be a great help for export houses here.

2.4 RELATED TERMS

2.4.1 WORK STANDARDIZATION

The establishment of uniformity of working conditions, tools, equipment, technical

procedures, administrative procedures, workplace arrangements, motion sequences, materials,

quality requirements, and similar factors which affect the performance of work.

Standardized work is a collection and implementation of the best practices known to that

point. Because improvements in quality, safety, and productivity will appear from time to

time the standardized work is to be updated via work instruction document, training, and

practice.

2.4.2 WORK STUDY

Work study is the study of how work is done. It looks at the way work is organised. It gathers

information about the work process. It tries to work out the most effective way of working.

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Work study is a form of Industrial Engineering. It was first introduced on the evolution of

widespread industrialization for the study of processes an industrial worker had to adopt to

complete an operation in manufacturing and how to simplify the processes to lessen the

fatigue element of the workers to increase his efficiency and productivity. But now it is also

being adopted for work measurement and to prescribe work standards in offices in the name

work study.

However to be brief, Work Study is the systematic examination of the methods of carrying

out activities such as to improve the effective use of resources and to set up standards of

performance for the activities carried out by industrial workers or office employees to fix job

standards. That also helps the management to know the actual requirement of workforce/

employees for certain jobs. Work study also helps in prescribing the ways and means to

simplify the complex procedures and processes of work in order to enhance the productivity

of the office employees or industrial workers.

2.4.2.1 METHOD STUDY

Method study is one of the most effective ways to eliminate unnecessary and non-value

adding activities as a result of analysing these activities. When the activities which are

performed during the operation are examined, three categories of activity can be described.

These activities are; main activities, incidental activities and additional activities. Main

activity is type of motions which are performed for main production. Incidental activity is

type of motions which are performed after and before the main activity and add more value to

production within main activity. Additional activity is a type of operations which don‟t add

value to production. On the contrary additional activities are type of operations which are not

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wanted to be performed. It especially results in waste of labour cost, time, and energy and

machine usage

When sewing process is analysed, it can be understood by observation that it consists of main

and incidental activities. Therefore it can be indicated that sewing operation results in more

than one sub operations. Sub of these sub operations can generate loss of time and labor job

because of applied method. It causes operation durations to last longer and to decrease

production volume. It also causes to have longer cycle time.

Method Study can be defined as the systematic recording and critical examination of existing

and proposed ways of doing work, as a means of developing and applying easier and more

effective methods. Method study is essentially used for finding better ways of doing work.

Steps in method study can be sorted as seven steps as selecting the work to be studied,

recording the existing work method and all other relevant facts, examining the method,

developing the most efficient method of doing the work, defining the method, installing this

method as standard practice and maintaining this practice.

2.4.2.1.1 PRINCIPLES OF MOTION ECONOMY

M -- The extent of movement should be kept to a minimum.

Finger ---------------- Best

Fingers

Hand

Forearm

Arm

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Body

Walking about.-------------Worst

I-- People come in different shapes and sizes. As far as possible workplace should be

adjusted to individual.

S-- The motions of the arms should be symmetrical. The two hands should not be idle

at the same time except during the rest period.

S-- The movement of the arms should be simultaneous. * pick up pocket and facing,

one with each hand simultaneously.

C-- Jerk movement is tiring and unproductive. For the best result movements should

be continuous, except during rest break.

H-- If the tools and materials are always in the same place, the method becomes

habitual. Even feeding itself would require a great deal of care, if the materials are

kept in different place in different time. So there should be a definite and fixed place

for all tools and materials.

U-- Restricted movement is more tiring than unrestricted movement. So work aid is of

great help to the operator. For e.g. Edge guide.

R-- Rhythmic movement is natural movement, so this is to be encouraged.

N-- The easiest way is the Natural way of working. The method is devised

accordingly to train people to work in

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2.4.3 STANDARDIZED CODE

Standardized code is a combination of alphabets or numerical or both to represent a particular

process or task and providing necessary information about the process.

2.4.4 HTML

Hyper Text Markup Language, commonly abbreviated as HTML, is the standard markup

language used to create web pages.

HTML allows images and other objects to be embedded and it can be used to

create interactive forms. It provides a means to create structured documents by denoting

structural semantics for text such as headings, paragraphs, lists, links, quotes and other items.

2.4.5 MICROSOFT EXCEL

Microsoft excel has many capabilities that make it suitable for use as a data management tool.

It provides multiple featured for organising and managing data, so you can ensure that data is

entered correctly and calculations and formulas are valid.

Excel makes use of formulas (Mathematical Expression that you create) and functions

(Mathematical Expression that are already available in excel) to dynamically calculate results

from the data available in worksheet.

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3. METHODOLOGY

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The methodology involves several different steps for the different initiatives undertaken to

complete the project and its implementation. The general steps to be followed are mentioned

below. The methodology of each initiative shall be discussed further on in detail.

The project design is described below.

Table 3.1 Research design

Nature of the Project Qualitative & Quantitative

Mode of Data Generation Non-behavioural Analysis(Record Analysis,

Physical Condition Analysis, Physical Process

Analysis), Direct Observation

Sampling Technique Non-probabilistic Sampling: Convenience Sampling

Data Type Unstructured, Verbal

Data Analysis Method Theoretical Analysis

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3.1 PROCESS FLOW

The general method that was followed is mentioned in the steps below. After thoroughly

understanding the process, problem areas were identified. Relevant data was collected and

analysed. A proper brain storming was done. Solutions for some problems were developed.

The solutions were tested on the floor to assess their contribution. The performance of the

new process was compared to that of the old process to help quantify the amount of material

saved in the new process. The basic required activities and their procedure to complete this

project are as follows:

Figure 3.2 Process flow

Understand the Process

Define the Areas of Concern

Collect and Analyze Data

Develop a Solution

Test Run

Compare Performance of the New Process with the Previous Process

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3.1.1 UNDERSTANDING THE PROCESS

In the first week, the factory was visited. The processes in the factory were observed through

direct observation. Queries were answered in unstructured interviews with factory personnel.

The interviewees were chosen based on non-probabilistic convenience sampling.

3.1.2 DEFINING AREAS OF CONCERN

• Selection of the area (styles) in which the project will be executed

• Difference in operation names were identified as expats and operators all were from

different countries

• Difference in methods of the operators for performing operations were noticed

• No proper digitalization for training of new operators

• No proper line balancing method

• Difference in Operation Bulletin and no proper SAM generation method

3.1.3 COLLECT AND ANALYSE DATA

Data was collected from the related departments. Data was obtained from primary sources,

with the help of individual, unstructured interviews and from secondary sources by reviewing

the records maintained in the factory. Bihourly production report was collected from the line

and videos of the operators for some particular style were captured.

Through non-behavioural analysis of the records, the data was analysed.

3.1.4 DEVELOPING A SOLUTION

From the data analysed, solutions of the problems were brainstormed. Excel based software

was made which was solving the major issues like unstandardized operation names, line

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balancing, SAM generation etc. For issues like training purpose a web page based video

library was generated which can be linked to the official website and can be easily accessed

for training purpose. Even the unproductive motions of the operators were tried to remove by

the help of motion study.

3.1.5 TEST RUN

The solutions were tested. The factory personnel were explained about the working of the

new process and their respective roles and responsibilities in the process. OB, Line Balancing

and SAM were generated by the excel software for a new garment. Web page based video

gallery was also tested.

3.1.6 COMPARE PERFORMANCE OF THE NEW PROCESS WITH THE PREVIOUS PROCESS

To quantify the success (or failure) of the new process, it was compared to the previous

process. The software (CODE GENERATOR) gave the SAM, Line Balancing, for the new

garment unlike the previous method. The training purpose was also solved by the video

library itself.

3.2 RESOURCES USED

i. List of all the styles running in the area selected to execute the project

ii. Existing worksheets for all the styles

iii. Video recording device: camera with tripod

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4. IMPLEMENTATION

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The project has been implemented in 4 phases. The project undertaken was focused on

standardized operations, standardized code generation that particular operation which can

even define the machine used for that operation. The projects are enlisted as follows:

Phase I: Standardization of sewing operations

i. Identifying critical areas of the garment

ii. Doing motion study of those particular operators performing those operations

iii. Analysing there motions and removing non value added motions

iv. Implementation of the standardized motion

Phase II: Standardization of operation codes

i. Identifying the operations

ii. Identifying the machines used

iii. Digitalization of the operations

iv. Creating excel based software and generating standardized OB

v. Line balancing is performed for new style and SAM is generated for the style

Phase III: Making of Web page based video library

i. Digitalization of the operations of particular styles

ii. Comparing the operators performing same operation of a particular style

iii. Creating a web page for the gallery

iv. Attaching the videos

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A minor project related to IE department was also performed:

Phase IV: Making of folder system on fusing machine

i. Identifying the style requirement

ii. Taking correct measurement of the panel

iii. Making folder of exact measurement

iv. Fixing the folders and fusing stand

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PHASE I: STANDARDIZATION OF SEWING

OPERATIONS

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4.1 STANDARDIZATION OF SEWING OPERATIONS

4.1.1 METHODOLOGY

The need to standardize the motion of different operation by removing non value added

motions was identified. The process flow to eliminate the same is given below

Figure 4.1 Methodology

4.1.1.1 UNDERSTANDING PROCESS FLOW

The operation which was being performed was observed keeping in mind the criticalness of

the operation as well as the workstation was also observed.

4.1.1.2 DATA COLLECTION

Videos of the operators performing the same operation were captured with a sample size of 4

observations. Issues like camera consciousness were taken care off so that operators can be

captured in their normal way of working.

4.1.1.3 MOTION BREAKDOWN

The videos of the operators performing the operations were analysed, the motions were

further divided into sub motions and the sub motions along with its time were noted down.

Understand the Process

Data Collection

Motion breakdown

Motion standard-

ization

Implementati-on

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4.1.1.4 MOTION STANDARDIZATION

Keeping in mind the motions performed by all the operators for particular operation, few of

the non-value added or sub motions which are not required are eliminated so that the motion

can be standardized.

4.1.1.5 IMPLEMENTATION

IE Supervisor helped to implement the standardized method by conveying our words to the

operators, making them understand the process. The operators were also made to understand

the standardized process is going to help them eventually. The standardized methods will

eventually reduce the motion resulting in easy operating procedures.

Initially the IE supervisor was made to understand about the current motion which the

operator is performing for a particular operation. Then he was made aware of the best method

to perform that particular operation. The IE supervisor was then made aware that which

particular operator is performing which operation and what are the extra motions which he is

performing and can be eliminated.

We together went to the operators and made them understand about the extra motions which

they are producing and also helped them in eliminating the same by suggesting them the best

known method.

They were also explained about the benefits of the same. A keen eye was kept on the

operators so that they follow the suggested method and not the previous method. So that all

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the operators performing same operations have similar motions resulting in standardized set

of motions for that particular operations and even elimination of non-value adding motions.

The implemented method was eventually captured so that a proper difference can be

documented with exact data and values of the method difference and time difference. Proper

graphs were plotted for the motion difference.

Figure 4.2 Method Implementation Images

Images of IE official explaining the methods to the operators

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STYLE NO: #74460

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: EMA SLASH POCKET SLIM ANKLE

CLOSE WAISTBAND: WCC-- SNLS

NO. OF OPERATORS OBSERVED: 3

OPERATING PROCEDURE

BEFORE METHOD STUDY AFTER METHOD STUDY

1. Pick 1. Pick

2. Fold 2. Fold

3. Place, Tack & Fold 3. Place, Tack & Fold

4. Sew 4. Sew

5. Fold 5. Fold

6. Sew 6. Sew

7. Fold 7. Fold

8. Sew 8. Sew

9. Fold 9. Fold

10. Sew 10. Sew

11. Fold 11. --

12. Sew 12. --

13. Fold 13. --

14. Sew 14. --

15. Fold 15. --

16. Sew 16. --

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17. Check 17. Check

18. Drop 18. Drop

Figure 4.3 Operating Procedure Table

Unnecessary non value added operations are removed or a better handling method is

suggested. It can be seen that the number of sub operations are reduced which leads to

completion of the operation in shorter time period.

It can be analysed through the following graphs generated from the observations taken before

and after implementation of the suggested method:

OPERATOR 1

Figure 4.4

0.0

2.0

4.0

6.0

8.0

10.0

12.0

OPERATOR 1

Before After

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Figure 4.5

AVERAGE CYCLE TIME:

BEFORE METHOD STUDY: 52.3

AFTER METHOD STUDY : 44.8

OPERATOR 2

Figure 4.6

0.0

10.0

20.0

30.0

40.0

50.0

60.0

Before Implementation After Implementation

OPERATOR 1

Drop

Check

Sew

Fold

Sew

Fold

Sew

Fold

Sew

Fold

0.0

2.0

4.0

6.0

8.0

10.0

OPERATOR 2

Before After

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Figure 4.7

AVERAGE CYCLE TIME:

BEFORE METHOD STUDY: 56.1

AFTER METHOD STUDY : 47.3

OPERATOR 3

Figure 4.8

0.0

10.0

20.0

30.0

40.0

50.0

60.0

Before Implementation After Implementation

OPERATOR 2 DropCheckSewFoldSewFoldSewFoldSewFoldSewFoldSewFoldSewPlace,Tack & FoldFoldPick

0.01.02.03.04.05.06.07.08.09.0

10.0

OPERATOR 3

Before After

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Figure 4.9

AVERAGE CYCLE TIME:

This operator had the best motion which further cannot be reduced.

BEFORE METHOD STUDY: 48.4

AFTER METHOD STUDY : 48.4

0.0

5.0

10.0

15.0

20.0

25.0

30.0

35.0

40.0

45.0

50.0

Before Implementation After Implementation

OPERATOR 3

Drop

Check

Sew

Fold

Sew

Fold

Sew

Fold

Sew

Fold

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STYLE NO. 123273

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: ANA S16 POPLIN UTILTY SHORT

ATTACH FRONT POCKET: PPAF- DNLS

NO. OF OPERATORS OBSERVED: 3

OPERATING PROCEDURE

Figure 4.10 Operating Procedure Table

BEFORE METHOD STUDY AFTER METHOD STUDY

1. Pick & place the body 1. Pick the body and pocket

simultaneously

2. Pick the pocket 2. --

3. Arrange the pocket 3. Arrange the pocket

4. Attach 4. Attach

5. Re-arrange the pocket 5. Re-arrange the pocket

6. Attach 6. Attach

7. lift pressure foot & turn the body 7. lift pressure foot & turn the body

8. Attach 8. Attach

9. lift pressure foot & turn the body 9. lift pressure foot & turn the body

10. Attach 10. Attach

11. Drop 11. Drop

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Unnecessary non value added operations are removed or a better handling method is

suggested. It can be seen that the no. of sub operations are reduced which leads to completion

of the operation in shorter time period.

It can be analysed through the following graphs generated from the observations taken before

and after implementation of the suggested method:

OPERATOR 4

Figure 4.11

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

AVERAGE TIME TAKENBEFOREIMPLEMENTATION

AFTER IMPLEMENTATION

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Figure 4.12

AVERAGE CYCLE TIME:

BEFORE METHOD STUDY : 17.1

AFTER METHOD STUDY : 13.6

OPERATOR 5 Figure 4.13

0.0

2.0

4.0

6.0

8.0

10.0

12.0

14.0

16.0

18.0

BEFOREIMPLEMENTATION AFTER

IMPLEMENTATION

DROP

ATTACH

LIFT PRESSURE FOOT &TURN THE BODY

ATTACH

LIFT PRESSURE FOOT &TURN THE BODY

ATTACH

RE-ARRANGE THE PKT

ATTACH

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

BEFOREIMPLEMENTATION

AFTERIMPLEMENTATION

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Figure 4.14

AVERAGE CYCLE TIME:

BEFORE METHOD STUDY : 14.1

AFTER METHOD STUDY : 12.5

OPERATOR 6

0.0

2.0

4.0

6.0

8.0

10.0

12.0

14.0

16.0

BEFOREIMPLEMENTATION AFTER

IMPLEMENTATION

DROP

ATTACH

LIFT PRESSURE FOOT &TURN THE BODYATTACH

LIFT PRESSURE FOOT &TURN THE BODYATTACH

RE-ARRANGE THE PKT

ATTACH

ARRANGE THE PKT

PICK THE PKT

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

BEFOREIMPLEMENTATION

AFTER IMPLEMENTATION

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Figure 4.15

AVERAGE CYCLE TIME:

BEFORE METHOD STUDY : 15.3

AFTER METHOD STUDY : 13.3

0.0

2.0

4.0

6.0

8.0

10.0

12.0

14.0

16.0

BEFOREIMPLEMENTATION AFTER

IMPLEMENTATION

DROP

ATTACH

LIFT PRESSURE FOOT & TURNTHE BODY

ATTACH

LIFT PRESSURE FOOT & TURNTHE BODY

ATTACH

RE-ARRANGE THE PKT

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PHASE II: STANDARDIZATION OF

OPERATION CODES

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4.2 STANDARDIZATION OF OPERATION CODES

A standardized code system was developed so that confusion can be reduced of the basis of

naming the operations and even standardized OB can be made as line to line names of the

same operation varies due to the reason that expats are from different regions of the world.

A more accurate system for SAM calculation was needed as the operators were highly

efficient.

4.2.1 METHODOLOGY

Figure 4.16 Methodology

Delivarables

Results

Pilot study

Developement of software

Data Analysis

Data Collection

Identify the machine used

Identify the operation

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4.2.1.1 IDENTIFY THE OPERATIONS

At first the garment construction was observed properly, the operations being performed by

the operators were noted down along the line. The different types of operations were

distinguished.

4.2.1.2 IDENTIFY THE MACHINE USED

Different types of machine used for construction of the whole garment were also noted down.

Machines were noted down according to the operations performed on it.

4.2.1.3 DATA COLLECTION

Videos of all the operators were captured for three styles having different construction. The

constructions were noted down for the garment throughout the line. More than 300 videos

were captured.

4.2.1.4 DATA ANALYSIS

The data analysis technique employed was record analysis. At first brain storming was done

and the operations were categorized into 10 categories. Further the garment panels were

divided into components and sub components. The common operation (construction) videos

among the three styles were segregated and compared. (*refer Appendix B)

4.2.1.5 DEVELOPMENT OF SOFTWARE

Brain storming was done and the components, sub-components, operation type all were

denoted by some alphabetic character.

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The code is an Alphabetical code consisting of 9 letters. The code demonstration example is

as follow:

1) a Component Type

2) b Sub Category of Component Type

3) c Operation to be Performed

4) d

5) e Placement/Miscellaneous

6) w

7) x

8) y Type of Machine

9) z

Now, the 1st Alphabet will characterize the Component type, 2

nd Alphabet will characterize

the Sub category of that particular Component type, 3rd

Alphabet will characterize the

operation to be performed (type of operation), 4th

& 5th

Alphabets will characterize the

Placement and even the Miscellaneous e.g the sub-sub category of components etc. The last 4

Alphabets 6th

, 7th

,8th

& 9th

will characterize the type of the Machine. Two character space will

be present before the starting of the machine code.

Then by the help of the same the captured videos of all the operations of all the three styles

were given specific codes.

In Excel at first a dropdown was created for selecting the specified components then another

drop down was created for selecting the sub component of the component selected if any.

Then operation drop down was created following placement/miscellaneous drop box.

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The machines were also given 4 character codes. A drop box for machines was also added.

Further by the help of Excel commands and functions it was made sure that the extra codes

which are generated are prevented which has not been covered in those three styles.

Figure 4.17 Image of CODE GENERATOR

For creating the OB, the best operator timing was considered. Then the average time of all the

operators performing the same operations were taken. Further again an Average percentage

for those average times were taken which was 15% (const. for every operation). Now 30%

allowance is added as personal and fatigue allowance. Now comparing with the Target given,

number of manpower required is also taken out.

Example of the Coding Structure:

a) Back Pocket Attach

For this operation the code will be generated in the below mentioned pattern:

Pocket Patch Attach Back - DNLS : PPAB- DNLS

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b) Top Stitch Back rise

As this does not have any component or sub component so for this operation the code will be

generated in the below mentioned pattern:

- - Topstitch Back Rise SNLS : --TBR SNLS

c) Front Rise Overlock

As this too does not have any component or sub component so for this operation the code will

be generated in the below mentioned pattern:

- - Serge Front Rise : --GFR OVLK

(*refer Appendix C)

4.2.1.6 PILOT STUDY

The software (code generator) was used to make OB of a new style. For the new style the

required construction were chosen among the three styles which has been studied for creating

the software. (*refer Appendix D)

4.2.1.7 RESULTS

The OB of the new style was created using the code generator along with its SAM value. The

software also helped in line balancing and even number to know the manpower required for

that particular style.

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Figure 4.18 Image of the OB

4.2.1.6 DELIVERABLES

A standard operating Bulletin was made, instructing several departments about the same.

Training seminars was given for understanding about the working of the software. Proper

SAM Value for the new style was made and verified.

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PHASE III: WEB PAGE BASED VIDEO

GALLERY

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4.3 WEBPAGE BASED VIDEO GALLERY

A webpage was also developed containing all the videos of all sewing operations performed

for construction of the particular ladies bottom styles which we will cover while the course of

our graduation project.

The videos were displayed style wise along with the operations performed in sequence. At

the starting of the webpage, style sketch and details (as one style is being produced by more

than one line combining both the units.) will be linked. The webpage can be attached to the

central webpage of the company so that it can be accessed by authorized persons from any

unit of the company worldwide for training.

4.3.1 METHODOLOGY

Figure 4.19. Methodology

4.3.1.1 UNDERSTANDING THE PROCESS

The process of garment construction was observed. The sequence was noted down along the

line.

Understand the process

basic

layout

Data collection linking videos Result

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4.3.1.2 BASIC LAYOUT

The basic coding for the web page was done by adding cells for the gallery so that it could be

aligned. CSS was done for the menu bar. (*refer Appendix E)

4.3.1.3 DATA COLLECTION

The videos were captured for all the operators and the best operator videos on the basis of

time, handling of material were sorted style wise. The buyer‟s manual was also collected for

the particular style from the concerned department

4.3.1.3 LINKING VIDEOS

The videos were linked according to the constructions performed step by step. The videos

were linked in such a way so that it can be accessed from any browser.

4.3.1.4 RESULT

The web page based video gallery was created which contained the style description of that

particular style. The web page gallery was very useful for training purpose as new operators

can be motivated by showing the video and even can be told if they perform the best their

videos can also be uploaded in the gallery itself. The gallery will also be useful for the IE

department as if any case of repeat style come the videos can be referred for many purposed

like balancing etc.

The video gallery contains the style sketch, operator name and ID along with the videos of all

operators.

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Figure 4.20 Image of the Web Page based VIDEO GALLERY

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PHASE IV: MAKING OF FOLDER SYSTEM ON

FUSING MACHINE

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4.4 FUSING MACHINE FOLDER

4.4.1 PANEL DETAILS

CRITERIA MEASUREMENT (IN INCHES)

LENGTH OF THE PANEL 11 ½”

WIDTH OF THE PANEL 1 7/8”

CONSTRUCTION The panel needed to be fused. After fusing,

the panel needed to be pressed from both

sides to make it a width of 1 ¼”.

Figure 4.21

4.4.2 PROBLEM FACED

The panel was small as it was difficult for the pressman to hold and press it.

It was a time consuming process.

More consumption of man power for that particular style.

4.4.3 EARLIER PROCESS

I. The panels were fused by fusing machines with the help of 3 workers which has a

target of 360pcs/hr.

II. Again those panels were pressed by the help 1.5 pressmen per day to meet the target

(150pcs/hr) in the below mentioned process:

a. They used to keep two fused panel together

b. Keep a soft steel template on it

c. Then the panel was pressed by folding it from both sides with other hand

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Figure 4.22 Images of Earlier Processes

4.4.4 IMPROVED PROCESS

A folder has been attached of the exact measurement as required at the mouth of the fusing

machine. The fusing roll has been attached at the end of the machine, which removes the

process of pressing. The process which is followed now is below mentioned:

I. The fusing roll is fixed at the end of the fusing machine.

II. The fusing is then fed continuously & the fabric panel is placed one by one on the

fusing keeping a gap of 0.5-1 cms between.

III. The panel comes out from the other side fused

IV. Now the fused panel is once again passed through the fusing machine but this time

through the folder.

V. The folder guides it to the mouth of the fusing machine in exact dimension as required

and as the panel is already fused it is stiff and slides through the folder easily.

Step I Step II

Step III

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VI. The panel comes out from the other side pressed.

Figure 4.23 Images of the Folder and fusing stand

Image of the Fusing Stand

Image of the Fusing Machine Folder

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4.4.4.1 PROCESS IMAGES

Step I: Fusing roll was kept on

the fusing stand and the fusing

was aligned properly

Step II: Two rows of continuous

fusing were fed through the

fusing machine.

Step III: Fabric panels are

aligned properly on top of the

fusing.

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Step IV: Fabric panel goes

through the fusing machine.

Step V: Fused fabric panel

comes out from the other side.

Step VI: Fused fabric panels are

again aligned through the fusing

roll stand.

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Figure 4.24 Images of the Folder system process on fusing machine

Step VII: Fused fabric panels

fed through the fusing machine

through the folder this time.

Step VIII: Fused fabric panels

come out folded in the exact

required dimensions.

Step IX: Fused fabric panels

come out folded in the exact

required dimensions.

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4.4.5 RESULTS

Manpower in the form of 1.5pressmen per shift, which means 3pressmenper day is saved and

2 fusing person is also saved per day. So in total 5 operators is reduced for construction of the

garment per day resulting in cost reduction of 18.6 USD per person. This means a total saving

of 18.6*5 = 93 USD is saved per day.

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5. LIMITATIONS OF THE PROJECT

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The limitations which were faced during the project are mentioned below:

The operators are highly efficient with great handling and used best method known

till date, which made it very difficult for us to make it more standardized by

elimination unproductive motions.

Shifting of the operator intra unit and even to Oman was a drawback for our project- it

was difficult for us to keep a track of the operators as they were shifted to other unit

according to the requirement and even to Oman where the new unit has been set up.

The CODE GENERATOR is excel based software, in order to edit the codes or add

some codes to it or even to change some of its videos a basic knowledge of excel is

required.

The codes which are being currently generated are on the basis of three studied styles

which we have gone through while our graduation project so even the codes are

generated for those particular operations which are there in those three styles along

with the videos.

In order to make changes in the HTML based video gallery, a basic idea of html based

coding is required as without it the codes might not get properly linked or the layout

of the page might get changed or should say may not be proper.

The videos are heavy files so it requires a high RAM System to process the webpage

properly else the source system will take some time to process or should say load the

page.

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6. FUTURE SCOPE OF THE PROJECT

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The future scope for the particular topic which I have covered in my graduation project is

very high. As the project deals with a totally new ground which has not been touched yet so it

gives us a further scope to exploit the things for my best learning and implementation.

The software standardizes the operation codes which have never been done yet. So it gives a

lot of scope to exploit the areas. As the software at this stage mainly deals with bottoms so it

has been an effective one.

The software can even help in making Operation Bulletin for the production line as it will

even help to calculate SAM of the garment.

Reforms in the OB making procedure

Uniformity in the operation codes

The software is applicable for all garment bottoms industry

Different new styles can be added to it after proper study

It is a perfect for even training purpose as more and more best videos can be added to

it

Easy digitalization of operations

More and more styles can be added to the gallery

Easy to access

Training of operators will be easier, as the videos can be shown to them as reference

Easy to update

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7. BIBLIOGRAPHY

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Allwood, J., Laursen, S., Russell, S., & Malvido de Rodriguez, C. (2008). An approach to

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DEQ CNMI, SGMA. (2006). Green Garments Guidebook- Improving Environmental

Performance in Saipan‟s Garment Manufacturing Industry.

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Amsterdam, NL.

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Waste Management: The Garment And Household Textiles Sector(GG86 guide)

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Fletcher, K. (2008) Sustainable Fashion and Textiles, pp. 35, 99–105. Earthscan, London,

UK.

Gabriel, Y. & Lang, T. (2006) The Unmanageable Consumer, 2nd edn. pp. 22. Sage

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practices guide for textile and apparel manufacturers. US EPA Region, 2.

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Upgrading by Developing Countries. United Nations Industrial Development Organization.

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ain.pdf. Accessed January 8, 2015.

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%20reduction&f=false. Accessed January 8, 2015.

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Hawkings, R.G.P, Shaw, H.S. (2004). The Practical Guide to Waste Management Law.

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leadtime1.asp. Accessed January 8, 2015.

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Larney, M., & Van Aardt, A. M. (2010). Case study: Apparel industry waste management: a

focus on recycling in South Africa. Waste Management & Research, 28(1), 36-43.

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Waste and Saving Your Company Money.

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Lean Production in Textile and Garment Industry. InProceedings of International Conference

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and ecological sustainability for textile fibres. Ecological Indicators, 13, 66–74.

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Negulescu, I., Kwon, H., Collier, B.J. & Pendse, A. (1998) Recycling cotton from cotton/

polyester fabrics. Textile Chemist & Colorist, 30, 31–35.

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ny9hUAC&printsec=frontcover&dq=book+on+waste+management&hl=en&sa=X&ei=CcSv

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e&q=waste%20reduction&f=false. Accessed January 8, 2015.

A research on the effect of method study on production volume and assembly line efficiency

by Mahmut KAYAR1 , Mehmet AKALIN2 *

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8. APPENDICES

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APPENDIX A

DATA VALIDATION (Excel formulas)

COMPONENT : = IF(C7="",CL,INDEX(CC,MATCH(C7,OCL,0)))

COMPONENT TYPE : = IF(B7="NONE",NONE,OFFSET(CST,MATCH(B7,CC,0)-

1,1,COUNTIF(CC,B7),1))

OPERATION: =IF(B7="NONE-",OPLT,OFFSET(CST,MATCH(B7,CC,0)-

1,2,COUNTIF(CC,B7),1))

PLACEMENT/ MISCELLANEOUS : =IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="BARTACK-

R"),B,IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="JOIN-J"),J,IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="SERGE-

G"),G,IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="SEW-S"),S,IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="T/S-

T"),T,IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="TACK-K"),K,OFFSET(CST,MATCH(B7,CC,0)-

1,3,COUNTIF(CC,B7),1)))))))

MACHINE: =IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="BARTACK-R"),Z,IF(AND(B7="NONE-

",D7="JOIN-J"),Y,IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="SERGE-G"),X,IF(AND(B7="NONE-

",D7="SEW-S"),W,IF(AND(B7="NONE-",D7="T/S-T"),V,IF(AND(B7="NONE-

",D7="TACK-K"),M,OFFSET(CST,MATCH(B7,CC,0)-1,4,COUNTIF(CC,B7),1)))))))

CODE GENERATION :

=IF((SUMIF(CODES,IF(AND(B7=0,C7=0,D7=0,E7=0,F7=0),"Waiting...",IF(AND(C7=0,D

7=0,E7=0,F7=0),"Component type missing..",IF(AND(D7=0,E7=0,F7=0),"Operation

missing..",IF(AND(E7=0,F7=0),"Placement/miss. missing..",IF(AND(F7=0),"Machine

missing..",IF(OR(B7=0,C7=0,D7=0,E7=0,F7=0),"ERROR...",CONCATENATE((RIGHT(B7

,1)),(RIGHT(C7,1)),(RIGHT(D7,1)),(RIGHT(E7,2)),(RIGHT(F7,6))))))))),SNO.))=0,"INVA

LID CODE",((

IF(AND(B7=0,C7=0,D7=0,E7=0,F7=0),"Waiting...",IF(AND(C7=0,D7=0,E7=0,F7=0),"Com

ponent type missing..",IF(AND(D7=0,E7=0,F7=0),"Operation

missing..",IF(AND(E7=0,F7=0),"Placement/miss. missing..",IF(AND(F7=0),"Machine

missing..",IF(OR(B7=0,C7=0,D7=0,E7=0,F7=0),"ERROR...",CONCATENATE((RIGHT(B7

,1)),(RIGHT(C7,1)),(RIGHT(D7,1)),(RIGHT(E7,2)),(RIGHT(F7,6)))))))))))

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APPENDIX B

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APPENDIX C

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APPENDIX D

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APPENDIX E