antique dyeing vt2007

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ANTIQUE DYEING

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Page 1: Antique Dyeing VT2007

ANTIQUE DYEING

Page 2: Antique Dyeing VT2007

THE PRINCIPLE OF ANTIQUE DYEING

-

garment, 100 % Co, is

treated

first

withPERFIXAN RDPERFIXAN RD

to change

the

affinity

of the

fibre

cotton

fibre

cotton

fibre

in aqueous

solulion

cationized

cotton

fibre

electronegative

load

electropositive

load

in aqueous

solulion

cationic

treatment

PERFIXAN RD

Page 3: Antique Dyeing VT2007

THE PRINCIPLE OF ANTIQUE DYEING

-

pretreated

garment

is

dyed

with

reactive

dyes

under

special

conditions

to get

a ring dyeing

effect

cationized

cotton

fibre

Superficial

cotton

fibre

dyeing

(RING DYEING)

dyeing

with

dyes

(electronegative

charge)

cationized

cellulose

dyestuff

Page 4: Antique Dyeing VT2007

THE PRINCIPLE OF ANTIQUE DYEING

-

to improve

the

special

antique

look

a biofinish

withPERIZYM INDPERIZYM IND

remove

fragments

of dyed

fibres

from

the

surface

of the

garment

-

result

is

a look

which

appear

antique

(used, fade out)

Page 5: Antique Dyeing VT2007

PROCESS STEPS

-

prewash

(optional)

-

precationising

-

reactive

dyeing

+ soaping

-

biofinish

+ enzyme

stop

-

softening

(recommended)

Page 6: Antique Dyeing VT2007

PREWASH

recipe:2g/l

PERLAVIN NIC PERLAVIN NIC (universal washing

agent)

parameters:liquor

ratio

5 : 1 –

10 : 1

(10 : 1)

temperature

80 °Ctime

20 minutes

Page 7: Antique Dyeing VT2007

PREWASH

action:load

drum with

garment

and fill

with

water

add

PERLAVIN NICPERLAVIN NICheat

up to 80 °C (heating

rate 2 °C/min)

treat

20 minutesdrop the

bath

rinse

warm and

cold

for

5 minutesdrop the

bath, centrifuge

-> next

step

precationising

Page 8: Antique Dyeing VT2007

PRECATIONISING

recipe:2 %

PERFIXAN RD PERFIXAN RD ((precationisingprecationising

agentagent))

parameters:liquor

ratio

5 : 1 –

10 : 1

(8 : 1)

temperature

60 °Ctime

20 minutes

Page 9: Antique Dyeing VT2007

PRECATIONISING

action:fill

drum with

warm water

dose

PERFIXAN RDPERFIXAN RDheat

up to 60 °C (heating

rate 2 °C/min)

treat

20 minutesdrop the

bath

rinse

cold

for

5 minutesdrop the

bath, centrifuge

-> next

step

reactive

dyeing

Page 10: Antique Dyeing VT2007

REACTIVE DYEING

recipe:2 g/l

PERILAN VFPERILAN VF

(anti

grease)

25 ml/l caustic

soda

38 °Bé

(32.5 %)x %

reactive

dyes

(vinyl

sulfone) e.g.

CHEMAZOL YELLOW GRCHEMAZOL YELLOW GRCHEMAZOL RED RBNCHEMAZOL RED RBNCHEMAZOL BRILL.BLUE R S/PCHEMAZOL BRILL.BLUE R S/P

parameters:liquor

ratio

5 : 1 –

10 : 1

(8 : 1)

temperature

40 °Ctime

30 minutes

Page 11: Antique Dyeing VT2007

REACTIVE DYEING

action:fill

drum with

water

and heat

it

up to 40 °C

add

caustic

soda

and run

for

5 minutesdose

dissolved

dyes

within

5 minutes

dye 30 minutes

at 40 °C

neutralize

dyebath

with

28 ml/l

acetic

acid

(60 %)treat

10 minutes

then

drop the

bath, centrifuge

->

next

step

soaping

Page 12: Antique Dyeing VT2007

SOAPING

recipe:1.5 g/l

PERLAVIN SRS PERLAVIN SRS ((effectiveeffective

soapingsoaping

agentagent))

parameters:liquor

ratio

5 : 1 –

10 : 1

(8 : 1)

temperature

80 °Ctime

20 minutes

Page 13: Antique Dyeing VT2007

SOAPING

action:fill

drum with

warm water

add

PERLAVIN SRSPERLAVIN SRSheat

up to 80 °C and soap

20 minutes

drop the

bath

and rinse

5 minutes

hot and warm,centrifuge

->

next

step

biofinish

Page 14: Antique Dyeing VT2007

BIOFINISH

recipe:2 g/l

PERISTAL EPERISTAL E

(buffer

pH 4.5 –

5.5)3 %

PERIZYM INDPERIZYM IND

(acid

cellulase

for

bio-finishing)

parameters:liquor

ratio

5 : 1 –

10 : 1 *temperature

50 °Ctime

45 minutes

* in our

trials

we

used

LR 15 : 1 together

with

20 gulf

ballsto improve

the

mechanical

action

Page 15: Antique Dyeing VT2007

BIOFINISH

action:fill

drum with

water* and heat

it

up to 50 °C

add

PERISTAL EPERISTAL E

and run

for

5 minutescheck pH value

(4.5 –

5.5), adjust

if

needed

add

PERIZYM INDPERIZYM IND

and run

45 min** at 50 °C

* the

use

of hard

water

is

recommended

to improvethe

stability

of the

enzyme

** desired

effects

depends

on time and mechanical

action…

Page 16: Antique Dyeing VT2007

BIOFINISH

enzymatic

stop

very

important

action:add

2 ml/l caustic

soda

38 °Bé

check pH value

(>

9.0), if

necessary

adjust

itrun

for

10 minutes, then

drop the

bath

rinse

two

times

warm at 40 °C for

5 minutesrinse

cold, neutralize

with

1 ml/l acetic

acid

60 %

-> next

step

softening

Page 17: Antique Dyeing VT2007

SOFTENING

recipe:2 %

PERISOFT NANOPERISOFT NANO

(excellent

softener)

or

2 % PERISOFT J 23PERISOFT J 23

(well-priced

softener)

pH 5 –

6 with

acetic

acid

parameters:liquor

ratio

5 : 1 –

10 : 1

(8 : 1)

temperature

40 °Ctime

20 minutes

Page 18: Antique Dyeing VT2007

SOFTENING

action:use

last rinsing

bath

(acidified, pH 5 –

6)

add

PERISOFT NANOPERISOFT NANO

or

PERISOFT J 23PERISOFT J 23heat

up to 40 °C

run

for

20 minutesdrop the

bath

centrifugetumble

dry

Page 19: Antique Dyeing VT2007

LAB RESULTS

without

biofinish

with

biofinish

Page 20: Antique Dyeing VT2007

LAB RESULTS

without

biofinish

with

biofinish

Page 21: Antique Dyeing VT2007

LAB RESULTS

without

biofinish

with

biofinish

Page 22: Antique Dyeing VT2007

LEVEL OF FASTNESSES

-

fastness

to washing

(60 °C), DIN EN ISO 105-C01

diacetatecottonpolyamid

polyesterpolyacrylwool

Page 23: Antique Dyeing VT2007

LEVEL OF FASTNESSES

-

fastness

to rubbing, DIN EN ISO 105-X12

dry

wet

Page 24: Antique Dyeing VT2007

SUMMARY

antique

dyeing

could

be

an interesting

method

to dye and finish garments

giving

them

a characteristic

look

in combination

with

good fastnesses

(washing

and rubbing)

Page 25: Antique Dyeing VT2007

Textilchemie Dr. Petry GmbHFerdinand-Lassalle-Straße 5772770 ReutlingenGermanyTel.:

+49 7121 9589-0Fax:

+49 7121 [email protected]