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NEWPUPPY

STUDENT

CERTIFIED PROFESSIONAL DOG TR AINERS

ANIMAL TRAINING & COMMUNITY CENTER



[email protected] (212) 353-3647 | 92 East 7th Street, NY NY 10009

NEW PUPPY STUDENTANIMAL TRAINING & COMMUNITY CENTER




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ANIMAL TRAINING & COMMUNITY CENTER ANIMAL TRAINING & COMMUNITY CENTER

[email protected] (212) 353-3647 | 155 East 2nd Street, NY NY 10009

1. BY ASSOCIATION (EMOTIONAL RESPONSE)DOG EXAMPLE: A common example of associative learning in dogs is their reaction to the sight of a food bowl. Pull out the right bowl and the average dog will jump into fits of joy. This is because dogs have come to learn that this particular bowl always predicts mealtime. Food is tasty so we love food bowls. In other words, dogs associate bowls with eating.

HUMAN EXAMPLE: Humans learn by association, too. When you meet someone for the first time you come away with an association—positive, negative, or neutral. If you really enjoyed the interaction, you are likely to be happy to see that person again. If you found the person difficult or argumen-tative, you might get that little pit of dread in your belly when you see him or her again—you’ve formed a negative association with that person.

HUMAN–DOG COMPARISON: Dogs experience the world this way, too, perhaps more strongly than we humans. These associations inform the deci-sions dogs make and the reactions they have to various situations and things in their environment.

The amazing thing is that we can manipulate dogs’ associations to things. For example, new puppies generally find leashes inconsequential; when first shown a 6-foot length of nylon with a clip at the end they have a neutral asso-ciation to it. But find a way to make a dog associate anything with something he loves and you can teach him to love that, too. How? Clip on the leash and give him treats or take him for a walk. Every time you leash him, either take him for a walk or give him treats until you take the leash back off. Pretty soon the puppy figures out that the leash means there are good things to come.

The frightening thing is that learning by association also works in reverse. You can teach a dog to hate or fear leashes by repeatedly using them to give cor-rections or tie him up outside on his own.

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN TO US? Everything you do around your dog influences the associations he makes.

HERE’S AN EXAMPLE: Say I am walking my dog and I don’t like the way he reacts to seeing another dog. Maybe he just barks in excitement, but I don’t like it. I shout, “No!” and jerk his leash. This happens every time we see a dog. Pretty soon, my dog’s reaction to other dogs is terrible—he barks and growls and lunges and snaps because I have created a negative association: Dogs equal pain. In other words, I have taught my dog to dislike or fear other dogs.

This is the main drawback of using punishment—it has unintended side effects. It builds a negative association with the person doing the punish-ing, affecting the bond between person and dog. It is not that punishment doesn’t work—it’s that learning by association or emotion always comes along for the ride.

What might I do instead if my dog growls and lunges when he sees another dog? Reverse his negative association with other dogs. Treats are a good way to do this, but my dog might be too upset to take the treats. Put a spider right in front of an arachnophobe, and she will have a hard time listening to instructions to sit down and stop screaming. But keep the spider twenty feet away, only show it for short periods of time, and present the phobic person with conversation or money and with time, a new association will be formed.

2. BY CONSEQUENCE (BY DOING)DOG EXAMPLE: If your dog sits, he gets his dinner. The behavior of sitting will be more likely to happen again .

HUMAN EXAMPLE: If you go to work, you get paid. The check you get at the end of the week makes it more likely that you will go to work the following week. Your paycheck is a consequence of the behavior of going to work.

HUMAN–DOG COMPARISON: The major difference in learning by conse-quence for dogs and humans has to do with timing. Humans can wait for a reward, partially because we have language that can help us understand what the reward was for, even if it was delayed. You cannot wait until the end of the week to give your dog a paycheck! If you do nothing to try to pinpoint the moment your dog does the thing you like, you risk rewarding (or punish-ing) the wrong thing. In the five seconds it takes you to rummage in your pocket for a treat after he sits, the dog has sneezed, sniffed the ground, and looked left. All of a sudden a treat appeared. As far as the dog is concerned, he got it for looking left.

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN TO US? We need precision and immediacy to train dogs. Give your dog immediate feedback by using a clicker or “marker” word to quickly pinpoint the moment he has done something you like. The clicker or marker word should always be followed with praise, treats, or other dog rewards such as throwing a ball, opening a door, or letting your dog off leash to romp.

A DOG’S VIEW OF THE WORLDBy understanding these two ways of learning, we can surmise that a dogs approach new things and problems with two things in mind: 1. Is it safe or dangerous? 2. What do I need to do (or not do) to get what I want?

SAFE VS. DANGEROUS. This outlook on life comes from learning by as-sociation. When dogs gets punished for peeing on the carpet in front of you, they don’t necessarily learn that peeing inside is bad—they may learn that it’s not safe to pee in front of you, but it is safe to pee when you are not there.

WORKS VS. DOESN’T WORK. This outlook on life comes from learning by consequence. All dogs try staring at the refrigerator as a strategy to get it to open. After a time they give up because it doesn’t work; the fridge never opens. They also try staring at their people at the dinner table. Every once in a while someone gives in and shares a bite. Staring at people while they eat often works, so dogs continue to do it.

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN TO US? Dogs don’t do things we dislike to get back at us or be stubborn or naughty. To dogs the world is either safe or dan-gerous and things either work or they don’t. Right or wrong never enters into it. Behaviors that are rewarded are more likely to reoccur in the future.

If a dog barks at you to throw the ball and you throw it, rest assured he will do that again. If you ignore the barking he will eventually give up and try some-thing else. He is not barking to be obnoxious; he is just doing what works. Be patient with your dog and careful about what you pay attention to and what you ignore, and you will soon have a relaxed, content, and well-trained four-legged friend!

THE TWO WAYS DOGS LEARN





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EASIEST AND SAFEST WAY TO TRAINThere are many training “philosophies” out there. The good news is that reward-based training is supported by science and overall creates safer, more balanced dogs! Not only that - it’s easy to implement!

Reward-based training relies primarily on the animal being given tangible rewards for doing things that are “good” while behaviors that are “bad” are actively prevented with management or ignored/redirected if they happen. Think of setting your dog up to succeed by creating a desirable behavior pattern for them.

Our belief is that domestic pets should actively make the choice to comply with their owner willingly - because of the bond they share - not because they are constantly avoiding a punishment. We teach and support reward-based training practices in order to ensure every dog feels safe and exhibits more reliable behaviors.

WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH PUNISHMENT?The word punishment is defined as “any change in a human or animal’s sur-roundings that occurs after a given behavior which reduces the likelihood of that behavior occurring again in the future.” The key here is “reduces the likelihood of that behavior occurring again in the future.” If administering a punishment doesn’t reduce the likelihood of the behavior - it’s not a punishment.

There are many side-effects to using punishment when training:

• Your timing has to be perfect otherwise the dog won’t make the associa-tion. Humans are almost always late in delivery.

• The punisher needs to be aversive enough to the dog that it reduces the behavior after a few applications. If it doesn’t, it’s not punishment.

• Dogs habituate to pain, so if using a shock collar or a choke collar, eventu-ally more severity will be needed to startle or scare the dog - where do we draw the line?

• It can create unwanted associations, depending on what else is going on in the environment.

• It will increase aggressive behavior by adding to the dog’s perception that the world is a scary place.

The only type of punishments which are safe to use involve removing some-thing to dog wants while not creating fear or anxiety. For example, a dog jumps up for attention so the owner removes his attention until the dog is sitting politely. Even here, it’s important to make sure this is used in conjunc-tion with more proactive measures like teaching the animal that sitting is rewarding - even when they are excited.

Use punishments sparingly and only use ones that will not create fear or pain!

BASIC TRAINING COMPONENTS• REWARDS: Figuring out what is rewarding to your animal. We use a lot of

very small food rewards early on in training, but you will migrate towards using more “real life rewards” with time. As you figure out the best food rewards to use for what situations, you can also start to note what things your dog finds rewarding in every day life. Eg: the opportunity to go for a walk, getting to chase a ball, belly scratches, etc. Your job at this point is to figure out what is his $100 bill? What will he do anything for? And what is a $1 that you can give a lot of? The more “expensive” stuff (turkey? cheese? tossing a ball?) will be used outside or in new or stressful situations. The lower end stuff, like maybe (dry food? a belly scratch?), can be used inside and in less distracting areas.

• TIMING: Determining that the desired behavior is rewarded with proper timing. Behavior is happening ALL THE TIME. Everything your dog does could be considered a “behavior.” The clicker can pinpoint the precise moment when the behavior you want is happening. It should always be followed by a reinforcer. If not a treat, then praise or something else he really likes.

• MANAGEMENT: Manage your dog’s environment where success is encour-aged and unwanted behaviors are less likely to happen. Success breeds success, so you want to maximize the instances of good stuff by creating fewer opportunities to do the wrong thing. How can you construct a world where you can maximize the likelihood that your dog’s good choices will be rewarded? And how can you minimize the chance that your dog will be rewarded for doing the wrong thing? Some behaviors provide their own reward, independent of you. Peeing, for example. It just feels good. So, every time your dog pees on your rug, it feels good, so it increases the likeli-hood that your dog is going to do that behavior again. (Even if you catch a dog peeing and yell at him, it’s possible he’d misconstrue your attention as reward). Your better bet is to lift up the rug, not let him have roaming privileges if he isn’t empty, and giving him the maximum number of oppor-tunities to pee outside. All of these are management techniques.

SUMMARY• Motivation is what makes reward-based training so successful; the dog is

working because it’s fun - this creates a happier, more balanced dog.• Avoid harsh punishments that cause fear or intimidation. These make the

world unpredictable for dogs and often enhance fear and anxiety which can lead to aggression and unpredictable behavior.

• Punishments that remove something to dog wants and don’t create fear or anxiety (ie. dog jumps up, owner attention is removed) can sometimes be helpful; however, it’s important to make sure these are used in conjunction with proactive measures. Teach the animal what you want and set them up for success.

• Allowing the animal to “opt-in” to learning is important. Active learning results in happier, more confident and less stressed dogs who perform because they want to.

• Prompting (using lures or manipulating a dog) is not as effective as captur-ing (ie. rewarding the good behaviors the dog is already doing.) Prompts should be used sparingly - only when needed.

REWARD-BASED TRAINING





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1. SOCIALIZATION• Puppies begin learning about the world from day one. Part of helping

them develop into well-adjusted adults involves socialization: exposing your puppy to the world around him in a safe and positive way.

• This doesn’t just mean throwing as many “new” situations at them as possible. It means introducing new things that could be potentially scary in a safe, low-intensity environment. First impressions are very important; think quality over quantity!

• The prime socialization window is from 8-12 weeks in puppies so during this time we recommend you take your puppy out (in a bag if they aren’t fully vaccinated!) as much as possible to safe areas.

• Be smart about where you socialize: avoid places like dog parks (unless you are holding them in your arms outside the park), standing bodies of water and other areas where there might be dog fecal matter.

• We follow the guidelines recommended by the American Veterinary Society of Behavior and agree that early, safe socialization is important in preventing future behavior problems.

2. SELF CONTROL• Teaching your puppy to control his impulses - also known as patience - is

one of the keys to having a well-balanced, polite adult dog and one of the secrets to preventing future behavior issues and aggression.

• Over time, dogs begin to understand that by offering what we call “polite” behaviors, they will be rewarded and will start offering those instead of pushy, annoying ones to get what they want. This turns them into a polite member of human society.

• Start right away asking your puppy for patience by having them wait for things they want and/or offering eye contact! Avoid rewarding pushy behaviors like jumping and barking by ignoring until they are doing something polite.

3. FOCUS AND ATTENTION• Focus through you (the owner) should always be encouraged! Eye contact

is one of the most fundamental skills to teach your puppy.• If you start off teaching them that most good things happen when they

are paying attention to you, imagine how easy it will be to get their at-tention! Work up to asking for their attention around distractions, start practicing inside where there isn’t much else going on.

• The key to successful leadership is convincing your puppy that all good things are obtained through you!

4. PLAY• Play is a great way to teach your puppy how to use his mouth. By redirect-

ing him onto a toy you are preventing him from mouthing or nipping at you and encouraging him to take his energy out in appropriate ways.

• It’s also a great reward (ie. ask your puppy for a behavior: reward by toss-ing a ball!)

• Games like tug, fetch and chase are fun for both you and your puppy and helps create a bond so your puppy is more likely to listen to you.

• Play also provides great opportunities for you to teach self control (ie. teach your puppy to drop the tug toy in order for the game to begin again.)

• Teaching your puppy that you are the one who provides access to his favorite toys also helps with the next point - leadership.

5. LEADERSHIP• Good news - you don’t have to use force or intimidation to convince your

puppy that you are in charge of things! Convincing them that you control access to all the resources they want works wonders.

• For example: teaching your dog to offer a simple behavior like eye contact before they get to eat or go say hi to another dog teaches them that YOU are the gateway to this resource.

• On a daily basis, this is the best way to get polite behaviors and use the things your puppy really wants as rewards.

KEY CONCEPTS FOR PUPPIES





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WHAT ABOUT LEASH WALKS?Leash walks are great brainteasers because of all the sensory information dogs get from them, but they don’t count as aerobic exercise. Your dog needs to run, swim, or do something else that gets his heart pumping for at least 30 minutes every day.

WORKOUTS FOR THE BODY1. Chasing a ball or frisbee

2. Swimming

3. Playing tug or fetch

4. Active play with other dogs

5. Off-leash romps or hikes

6. Running on a leash with you

WORKOUTS FOR THE BRAIN1. PLAYING WITH WORK TO EAT TOYS: Biologically speaking, your dog

is not supposed to have a bowl of kibble plunked down in front of him. He is a hunter by nature, meant to work for his keep. Mimic this by serving your dog’s food in a Kong or treat ball. Your dog will spend the first part of the day figuring out how to get at his food and the rest of it recovering from the mental effort. For feeding dry food, try the Bob-A-Lot, Twist-n-Treat or Tricky Treat Ball. Wet food can be used in a Kong or The Nina Ottoson Brick among other toys.

2. ENJOYING A FAVORITE TOY: Toys are a great way to engage your dog’s brain. Dogs have distinctly individual toy preferences, depending on the day, time, and situation. Do some detective work and find out what truly tickles your dog.

3. SELECTING TOYS WITH A PURPOSE: The best toys deliver food, present a challenge, squeak, or make themselves interesting in some other way. Some classics to consider: Rope toys, plush toys (with or without squeakers), Hide-A-Bee (Squirrel, Bird), tricky treat balls, soft rubber toys (vinyl), and hard rubber toys like Kongs. Designate a popular toy for use only during alone time, like when you need to leave your dog in his crate, confinement area, or a spare room. Then, rotate the other toys daily to keep the novelty factor high.

4. SNIFFING IN A NEW ENVIRONMENT: Leash walking is great enrichment. You can even put “go sniff” on cue to teach your dog that walking politely on a leash means he gets to sniff almost anything!

5. CHEWING A BULLY STICK OR EDIBLE CHEW. This not only cleans teeth, but it helps provide chewing enrichment for your dog who has teeth designed to tear and destroy. Better they chew apart an edible chew than a couch cushion!

Dogs are a lot like children: if you don’t give them something fun to do, they will make their own fun—and often not in ways you approve of. Give your dog plenty of physical and mental exercise, and you get a happier, healthier, better-behaved dog. Well-exercised dogs bark less, chew less, sleep more, and rest easier if left home alone. They are also much less likely to rummage through the trash or attack the couch cushions.

PHYSICAL & MENTAL EXERCISE





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SUPERVISIONPuppies and young dogs need constant supervision to keep them from developing the wrong habits. Puppies should be tethered to you or somewhere safe, like in a crate or pen, if they can’t be directly supervised.

TIMINGTiming is crucial when it comes to housebreaking. A young puppy, similar to a toddler, realizes he has to go when it’s nearly too late. It’s your job to prevent emergencies by taking them out on a regular schedule. For very young puppies that can be as often as every 30 minutes when they are awake. Luckily puppies sleep a lot!

All dogs, even older ones, generally have to go immediately following naptime, playtime and about 10-15 minutes after each meal. Very young puppies may need to go in the middle of playtime. A good rule is to take a break every 10-15 minutes during indoor play and see if your dog needs to go. If not, resume play and try again in another 10-15 minutes.

WHAT GOES IN, MUST COME OUT Many people give puppies free access to food and water. This makes predicting their elimination habits very challenging. Setting up mealtimes and monitoring access to food and water can make a big difference.

Wet food, canned food or a raw diet can make house-training easier since puppies get more moisture from their food and don’t drink as much water between mealtimes. This promotes a more predictable schedule and takes out a little of the guesswork.

TEACHING THE RIGHT PLACE• Put on a leash and either walk or carry your dog to the place you want

them to go.• Pick a place that is close by and is relatively clean.• Avoid places with lots of vegetation or debris your dog may be tempted

to chew on. • Stand around with a loose leash and stay neutral while your dog sniffs

and hopefully decides to eliminate.• Being boring or inactive is very important. You don’t want your dog

confusing potty time with playtime.• When your dog starts to go, wait until they are finished and they start

to stand up or change positions. Then mark/click and follow with a treat and lots of verbal praise.

• Do this every time your dog goes in the right place.• Once your dog has started to get a feel for the routine, you can start

putting the behavior on cue.

House-training a dog is all about forming the right habits. Preventing accidents from occurring is just as important as teaching your dog where you want them to eliminate.

PUTTING IT ON CUE• Pick a phrase like “go potty,” or “do your business” that you will say every

time your dog starts to go in the right place. Make sure to click and give your dog a treat as soon as they are done.

• Unlike other behaviors that can be performed many times in succession, eliminating is more of a one and done type deal, so it may take a bit longer than other behaviors for your dog to make the connection, but patience and consistency will pay off!

MISTAKESNever punish your dog for having an accident. If you can catch them in time, gently interrupt them and take them out to the correct spot immediately to finish their elimination. Don’t yell, rub their nose in it or do any other physical corrections, as this will only confuse and likely create stress over elimination in front of you in general.

WHAT TO DOIf you find a mistake, clean up the area with an enzymatic cleaner like Nature’s Miracle. Try to figure out why the accident occurred. Did you miss the signs of your dog sniffing or circling? Had your dog just finished playing or napping? Had they recently eaten a meal or a lot of treats? Use your house-training log to record the circumstances so that you can prevent the same thing from happening again.

Set a timer for the next time your dog will probably have to go. As puppies get older, you can slowly increase the length of time they can be asked to hold it. Start with the smallest increments of time between walks you can manage, and keep those up as long as your dog is going every time. If they don’t go every 30 minutes anymore, you can try stretching it to every 45 minutes, but be prepared to start going out more frequently again if any accidents occur. Keep your dog on a leash or in a pen or crate.

PAD/POTTY PATCH TRAININGPaper training or potty pads can be used as part of the house-training process, but it’s important to decide ahead of time what your expectations are. If you do want your dog to learn to use a permanent place in the house, the same training steps apply: reinforce going in the location you have selected, and prevent accidents in other places. More environmentally friendly alternatives to pads include fake or real grass patches and doggy-litter boxes that can be made or purchased. If you are using paper or pads as a “just in case,” with a young dog, make sure to follow the house-training protocol when you are home, and reinforce your dog heavily for going outside. When your dog does use the pads inside, simply replace them, but don’t reward using the pads the way you reward going outside.

HOUSE-TRAINING





House-training Log

Reminder: puppies are most likely to potty... ❏ Immediately upon awakening from nap/sleep ❏ Shortly after eating/drinking (no fewer than 5 but no more than 30 minutes) ❏ After vigorous play

DATE TIME PEE? POOP? APPROPRIATE LOCATION? NOTES

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SchoolForTheDogs.com • INFO@SCHOOLFORTHEDOGS .C OM • 92 EAST 7TH STREET, NY NY 10009 • (212) 353-3647

HOUSE-TRAINING LOG





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BENEFITS TO TEACHING TUG/DROP • Provides a legal outlet for roughhousing• Redirects inappropriate use of teeth• Strengthens dog-owner bond (it’s fun!)• Teaches self control• Provides high energy exercise in small spaces

FOLLOW THE RULES Teaching a dog tug of war should be considered a training exercise. Here are a handful or rules that should always be followed to ensure the game is constructive:

• Use a toy that is long enough to keep dog teeth far away from your hands, and that is comfortable for you to hold when he pulls.

• Keep the tug toy put away. Bring it out when you want to play tug.• Hold up the toy. If he lunges for it say “Oops!” and quickly hide it behind

your back. It’s your toy - he can only grab it when you give him permission.• When he’ll remain sitting as you offer the toy, tell him to “Take it!” and en-

courage him to grab and pull. If he’s reluctant, be gentle until he learns the game. If he’s enthusiastic, go for it!

• Randomly throughout tug-play, ask him to “Drop” (*see below for how to practice this) and have him relinquish the toy to you. If necessary, trade him for a yummy treat. After he gives it to you, you can play again.

• If your dog’s teeth ever creep up the toy beyond a marked or imaginary line, say “Oops!”, have him give you the toy, and put it away briefly. (You can get it out and play again after 15 seconds or so.)

• If your dog’s teeth touch your clothing or skin, say “Oops!” and put the toy away for a minute.

• Children should not play tug with your dog unless and until you are con-fident they can play by the rules. If you do allow children to play tug with your dog, always directly supervise the game.

• Only tug side-to-side, not up-and-down (up-and-down can cause injury to your dog’s spine), and temper the vigor of your play to the size and age of your dog. You can play tug more intensely with a 120-pound adult Rottwei-ler than you can with a Rottie puppy, or a four-pound Chihuahua.

• When you are done playing, put the toy away until next time - you control the good stuff!

TEACH A “DROP” CUETeaching your dog to relinquish an item from their mouth is a must when playing tug of war. It ensures that you can get the tug toy away from the dog reliably and keep the game under control. There are several ways to teach this behavior to your dog, below are our two favorites.

TEACH DROP (USING A TREAT)• Hold a tug toy in one hand and a few stinky treats in your other hand (close

your fist around the treats and put this hand behind your back.)• Wait for your dog to offer a polite behavior like a sit, eye contact or a down

before beginning to tug with them. • Tug with them for a few seconds and then freeze and bring out your closed

fist, placing it just next to their nose.• Hold perfectly still. The second your dog’s mouth come off the tug toy

to investigate the smell of the treat in your fist, verbally mark “good!” and drop the treat on the ground for them. Reset yourself, putting both hands behind your back.

• Repeat 8-10 times as quickly as you can.• When you are willing to bet $20 that your dog will drop when you bring

your fist in, begin to add the word “Drop” just before you bring your fist towards their nose.

TEACH DROP (IF DOG PREFERS TUGGING TO A TREAT)• Encourage your dog to take toy and tug side to side while praising him.

Have fun - you want your dog to think when you are participating that this is the best game ever!

• After a few seconds, stop tugging and freeze (sometimes putting the toy between your legs helps hold it still) and wait.

• Your goal is to completely disengage from the dog until their mouth starts to come off the toy because they’re bored.

• The instant you feel the dog’s mouth begin to come off the toy mark, ”good!” or “okay!” and reengage in the fun tugging game!

• Repeat 8-10 times until your dog is starting to consistently release the toy the moment you stop tugging.

• When you are willing to bet $20 that your dog will drop when you freeze, begin to add the word “Drop” just before you freeze.

TUG OF WAR

For years dog trainers have been cautioning owners not to engage in tug-of-war with their dogs, saying it can create aggression. We know first-hand that teaching an appropriate game of tug can actually benefit both owner and dog and here’s why!

CERTIFIED PROFESSIONAL DOG TR AINERSSchoolForTheDogs.com


During the first important “socialization” period, puppies are learning about the world around them through their five senses.

As New Yorkers, we have a wide array of stimuli we want to expose our puppy to. Here is a list to help you make sure you’re covering everything

and tracking your puppies progress!

CATEGORIES: APARTMENT LIVING, CITY LIFE, DOGS, HANDLING, PEOPLE, SUBURBAN LIFE & SURFACES.




URBANSOCIALIZATION

CHECKLIST




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SCORE MY PUPPY IS...

F GROWLS, NIPS, BARKS, STRUGGLES, LUNGES OR BITES AT

D AVOIDS, BACKS AWAY, FREEZES, OR REFUSES TO LOOK AT OR INTERACT

C CO-EXISTS AT A DISTANCE FROM THE STIMULUS WITHOUT STRESS SIGNALS OR GREAT INTEREST

B WILLINGLY SNIFFS OR OTHERWISE INTERACTS WITH THE NEW THING, EITHER WITH ENCOURAGEMENT OR ALONE

A WIGGLY, LOOSE BODY LANGUAGE WHILE INTERACTING WITH, ABLE TO EASILY DISENGAGE

STIMULI SCORE DATE NOTES SCORE DATE NOTES

1. BALLOONS

2. BLANKETS BEING SHAKEN

3. BROOM, MOP

4. DISHWASHER

5. DOOR SLAMMING

6. DOORBELL RINGING

7. EXPLORING UNDER CHAIRS AND TABLES

8. FIREWORKS OUTSIDE

9. GARBAGE BAGS BEING PUT IN TRASH BINS

10. HAIR DRYER

11. LOUD MUSIC

12. MIRRORS

13. NOISE OF POTS AND PANS

14. OBJECTS OR BOOKS DROPPING ON THE FLOOR

15. OPENING AND CLOSING UMBRELLAS

16. TRAFFIC NOISE: CARS, BUSES, TRUCKS, MOTORCYCLES, HORNS, SIRENS

17. VACUUM CLEANER

18. VISITORS IN THE HOUSE - HUMAN, OTHER DOGS

19. WASHING MACHINE, DRYER

Help your pup learn to love your apartment by thoughtfully introducing him to the many things and experiences that are part of your day-to-day life.

URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: APARTMENT LIVING

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1. AIRPORT

2. AUTOMATIC DOORS

3. BASEMENT STAIRWELLS AND ENTRIES

4. BASEMENT STORAGE METAL DOORS OPEN

5. BICYCLES

6. BUSES

7. CARS

8. CARTS AND TROLLEYS

9. EARLY DAWN

10. ELEVATORS

11. ESCALATORS

12. FIREWORKS

13. FLAGS FLAPPING

14. GARBAGE CANS

15. GLASS DOORS

16. HORSES (POLICE HORSE, CARRIAGE HORSE AT PARK)

17. OUTDOOR CAFES

18. OWNER CARRYING GROCERY BAGS

19. PARK - OFF LEASH

The city can be an intimidating place for anyone; imagine what it must be like to experience it from six inches off the ground! Introducing your puppy to the many stimuli of the city should always be done in doses he can handle.

URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: CITY LIFE







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URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: CITY LIFE

20. PARK - ON LEASH

21. PIGEONS

22. PLASTIC AND PAPER BAGS BLOWING IN THE WIND

23. RAIN

24. RIDING IN A TAXI

25. RIDING ON A FERRY

26. RIDING ON THE SUBWAY

27. ROLLERBLADERS

28. ROLLING SUITCASES

29. SCHOOLYARD WITH CHILDREN PRESENT

30. SCOOTER

31. SIDEWALK SIGNS (SANDWICH BOARDS)

32. SKATEBOARDERS

33. SNOW

34. SQUIRRELS

35. STREET FAIRS

36. THUNDERSTORM

37. TRUCKS

38. WALKING PAST CONSTRUCTION SITES

39. WIND

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1. ADULT DOGS

2. DOGS BARKING (UNSEEN)

3. DOGS VISITING THE HOME

4. DOGS WITH CROPPED EARS

5. DOGS WITH DOCKED TAILS

6. DOGS WITH SMOOSHED-IN FACES

7. LARGER DOGS

8. PUPPIES

9. SMALLER DOGS AND TOY BREEDS

Many puppies spend their first few weeks seeing only dogs that look just like themselves. Work early on to show your puppy that you’ll help keep him safe and happy around other dogs, no matter what the shape and size.

URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: DOGS







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1. CHILDREN: STANDING, RUNNING, YELLING

2. DOORMEN AND MAINTENANCE WORKERS

3. ELDERLY MEN AND WOMEN

4. GROOMER

5. HOMELESS PEOPLE

6. INFANTS: CRYING / SHRIEKING; CRAWLING

7. JOGGERS

8. LARGE MEN AND WOMEN

9. MAIL AND DELIVERY PERSON

10. MEN WITH BEARDS

11. MEN WITH DEEP VOICES

12. PEOPLE CARRYING BACKPACKS, GROCERY BAGS, LUGGAGE

13. PEOPLE DANCING

14. PEOPLE GETTING UP FROM CHAIR/SOFA SUDDENLY

15. PEOPLE IN COSTUMES

16. PEOPLE IN UNIFORM

17. PEOPLE IN WHEELCHAIRS

18. PEOPLE OF DIFFERENT ETHNICITIES

19. PEOPLE WEARING GLASSES, SUNGLASSES

A well-socialized dog doesn’t judge a person by his appearance! You can help your puppy learn this by simply asking various types of people to give your puppy a treat. Thanks to your puppy’s cuteness, it shouldn’t be hard to find volunteers.

URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: PEOPLE







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URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: PEOPLE

20. PEOPLE WITH CANES, CRUTCHES, WALKING STICKS, AND WALKERS

21. PEOPLE WITH HEAD-SCARVES / FACE COVERINGS

22. PEOPLE WITH: HATS, HELMETS, HOODIES

23. TODDLERS AND INFANTS IN A MOVING STROLLER

24. UNFAMILIAR MEN AND WOMEN

25. VETERINARIAN

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1. CAMPING

2. CATS

3. LEAF BLOWER

4. LIVESTOCK

5. MOWING THE LAWN

6. NEIGHBOR WALKING THROUGH PROPERTY

7. NEIGHBORS AT FENCE

8. PET BIRDS

9. RABBITS, RATS, MICE, HAMSTERS, FERRETS, ETC.

10. RAKING

11. SNOW BLOWERS

12. SPRINKLERS

13. SWIMMING: POOL, CREEK, LAKE

Outside of the city, your puppy is going to encounter many things that are new. Make sure that he is happy and fear-free should you ever have to visit the in-laws!

URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: SUBURBAN LIFE







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1. BATHTUB

2. CARPET

3. COBBLESTONES

4. CONCRETE SIDEWALKS

5. GRASS: DRY

6. GRASS: WET, MUDDY

7. GRAVEL

8. HARDWOOD FLOORS

9. LINOLEUM FLOORS

10. MANHOLE COVERS

11. MARBLE SURFACES

12. METAL SIDEWALK GRATES

13. METAL VET SCALE

14. PUDDLE

15. STAIRS: GOING UP AND DOWN

16. STAIRS: WITH CLOSED BACKS AND OPEN BACKS

Dogs experience much of the world through the sensations in their paws. Teach them early on that the world has many safe textures. This will help them to learn to trust your judgement regarding what is (or isn’t) okay to step on.

URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: SURFACES







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1. BATHING

2. BRUSHING AND COMBING

3. CRADLING PUPPY IN YOUR ARMS ON ITS BACK

4. EXAMINING MOUTH AND GUMS

5. HOLDING AND GENTLY SQUEEZING PAWS

6. HOLDING EAR AND EXAMINING INSIDE

7. HOLDING PUPPY IN LAP

8. HOLDING/TOUCHING TAIL

9. HUGGING

10. NAIL TRIMMING

11. OPENING THE EYELIDS

12. PINCHING THE SKIN AND POKING WITH A CAPPED PEN (SIMULATED VACCINATION)

13. PULLING ON THE COLLAR (GOTCHA GAME)

14. PUTTING ON A SWEATER OR JACKET

15. REACHING TO PET PUPPY OVERHEAD

16. TEETH BRUSHING

17. TOUCHING AND SQUEEZING THE NOSE

18. WEARING A MUZZLE

19. WIPING BODY AND PAWS WITH A TOWEL

Good socialization can help your puppy learn there is no need to fear human handling; among other benefits, it will make visits to the vet or groomer less stressful for everyone.

URBAN SOCIALIZATION CHECKLIST: HANDLING







LOGO

COLORS

FONTS

ASSETS

ANIMAL TRAINING & COMMUNITY CENTER ANIMAL TRAINING & COMMUNITY CENTERVETERINARY CERTIFICATE FOR TRAINING


OWNER’S NAME _______________________________________

DOG’S NAME _________________________________________

DOG’S BIRTHDATE _________/________/________

DOG’S BREED _________________________________________

PROCEDURE YES NO TOO YOUNG? DATE(S) GIVEN DATE OF NEXT DUEWellness Exam

Negative Intestinal Parasite Screen

Flea/Heartworm Prevention

Deworming

Distemper Vaccination

Parainfluenza Vaccination

Parvo Vaccination

Bordetella Vaccination

Rabies Vaccination

Please note any other vaccinations

If dog’s intestinal parasite screen was positive, is dog under treatment and cleared by veterinarian to attend group classes?

YES NO How did the dog respond to handling, restraint, and other procedures (e.g., nail trims) during the exam? (Check all that apply.)

Please ask your veterinarian to complete, sign, and return this form to us by email at least one day prior to your first class with your dog.

Wiggly

Approached staff

Tried to hide

Stiffened or froze

Ate treats

Lip licks, yawning

Trembled

Growled or snapped

Additional notes: _________________________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

I, the undersigned, certify that I have examined the puppy or dog named above and at the time of examination found the puppy or dog to be in good health and free of any communicable diseases that would prevent participation in a group training class.

Veterinarian Signature _____________________________________

Veterinarian Name ________________________________________

Hospital/Practice ___________________________________________

Date ______________________________________________________

Phone ____________________________________________________

Email ___________________________________________________

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