animal behavior consulting: theory and practice: spring 2008

Animal Behavior Consulting:

Theory and Practice

Vol. 4, No. 1Spring 2008

A publication of The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants

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Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and PracticeSpring 2008

Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and PracticeVol. 4, No. 1 Spring 2008

EditorsBeth Adelman, MS, CABC Mychelle Blake, MSW, CDBC Chris Hamer, MS, CDBC

The International Association of Animal Behavior ConsultantsThe International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, Inc. is a professional association for the field of animal behavior consulting. The association represents the professional interests of behavior consultants throughout the world. It is involved with the problems, needs, and changing patterns of animal-owner relationships, and helps to ensure that the public’s needs are met by trained practitioners. The association provides the tools and resources animal behavior professionals need to succeed. It works tirelessly to nourish the animal-human bond.

Janet Velenovsky, MM, CPDT, CDBC-TACPresident

Sue Bulanda, MA, CDBCVice President, Chair of Dog Division

Chris Hamer, MS, CDBCExecutive Committee and Education Chair

Liz Wilson, CPBCTreasurer & Chair of the Parrot Division

Mikel Delgado, CCBCSecretary

Marilyn Krieger, MA, CCBCMember & Co-Chair of the Cat Division

Connie Dwyer, MS, CPDT, CHBCMember & Chair of the Horse Division

Debbie Winkler, CPDT, CDBC, CABCMember & Former President

The IAABC Board of Directors

The IAABC Division Chairs

Our Journal Division Liaisons

Cat Behavior Consulting DivisionPam Johnson-Bennett and Marilyn Krieger, Chairs

Dog Behavior Consulting DivisionSue Bulanda, Chair

Horse Behavior Consulting DivisionConnie Dwyer, Chair

Human-Animal Mutualism DivisionJanet Velenovsky, Chair

Parrot Behavior Consulting DivisionLiz Wilson, Chair

Cat Behavior Consulting DivisionMarilyn Krieger and Pam Johnson-Bennett

Dog Behavior Consulting DivisionVera Wilkinson

Horse Behavior Consulting DivisionConnie Dwyer

Human-Animal Mutualism DivisionJanet Velenovsky

Parrot Behavior Consulting DivisionKashmir Csaky

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Legal Information

Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice is published in accordance with the purposes of the sponsoring organization, the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, Inc. (IAABC). The IAABC Mission is to assist and educate owners and handlers of companion animals to prevent problems and to interrupt the cycle of inappropriate punishment, rejection, and euthanasia of animals with behavior problems that are resolvable. This mission is accomplished by providing state-of-the-art education and training to animal behavior professionals, so they can analyze, predict and resolve problem behaviors, and by advocating and promoting humane intervention. Articles are selected on the basis of appropriateness, clarity, significance, timeliness, and contribution to the field of animal behavior consulting. Authors need not be members of the IAABC to submit manuscripts. No remuneration is paid for accepted manuscripts.

Copyright on all materials published in Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice is held by the authors. Permission to reproduce such copyrighted materials must be obtained through IAABC and the authors. Requests can be made by emailing [email protected]. No portion of an article may be reproduced without permission in writing. Reprint orders for individual articles are handled by the IAABC business office. If the manuscript contains more than 100 words of material previously published elsewhere, the authors must obtain written permission from the copyright holder to include this material in publication of their manuscript in Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice. Any costs associated with obtaining this permission are the responsibility of the author or authors.

Submission Guidelines

For information on submitting manuscripts to future issues of Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice, go to the IAABC Web site, www.iaabc.org and access the Journal page to download a copy of our submission guidelines.

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Message from the Board ................................................................................................................................................... 5

Member News and Committee Reports ............................................................................................................................ 6

Case Study: Billie the Dalmatian ...................................................................................................................................... 7 Simon Goodall

Preparing Your Parrots for a Future Without You .............................................................................................................10 Kashmir Csaky

Competency Assessment Programme (CAP) Level 2 with Feline Jazzmanda .................................................................13 Jaqueline Munera

Beyond Bossy: Feline Status Aggression .........................................................................................................................18 Mikel Maria Delgado, CCBC

Medical Evaluation of the Feline Behavior Patient ..........................................................................................................25 Lore I. Haug, DVM, MS, DACVB

Establishing Professional Relationships with Veterinarians .............................................................................................29 Pam Johnson-Bennett, CABC

Being Prepared for Disaster ..............................................................................................................................................32 Susan Bulanda, MA, CABC

Book Review: The Emotional Lives of Animals by Mark Bekoff .....................................................................................35 Tonya Sakadinsky, BA, CDBC

Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and PracticeVol. 4, No. 1 Spring 2008

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and interests. He will help find the committee and/or task that will match your skills and availability. As with all workloads, the more members willing to help, the more quickly and effectively we can progress.

If the mission of IAABC is important to you and to the animals you love, step up and become involved. Have new ideas for projects that need to be done? Have an interesting case or experience to share in the Journal? Bring those to the table as well. Our vision is to have an organization nurtured and loved by its members. We all need to tend this garden.

Best,

Janet Velenovsky, MM, CPDT, CDBC-TAC

President, Human-Animal Mutualism Chair

And fellow Board Members

Deb Winkler, CPDT, CABC

Former President

Chris Hamer, MS, CDBC

Executive Committee, Education Committee Chair

Liz Wilson, CABC

Treasurer & Parrot Division Chair

Susan Bulanda, CABC

Vice President, Dog Division Co-Chair

Marilyn Krieger, MA, CCBC

Cat Division Co-Chair

Mikel Delgado, CCBC

Treasurer

Connie Dwyer, MS, CPDT, CHBC

Horse Division Chair

Dear Colleagues,

Happy spring! As we enter this time of renewal and growth, we want to thank all of you who have offered support,

suggestions, opinions, ideas, observations, and comments as we work to strengthen and improve the IAABC. While doing some garden upkeep lately, I couldnít help notice the similarities between our young organization and a young perennial garden.

You just canít rush natural growth; things take time to mature. As much as I want bigger and healthier bushes, they just arenít there yet. Wanting things to happen sooner doesnít make them happen. Your board continues to make progress, but some processes are going to take longer to mature than anyone would like, including us.

We had hoped to have the by-laws completed already, but we found it was in our best interest for IAABC to hire a firm that advises non-profits, so they are now helping us with research and recommendations. By, or shortly after publication time of this Journal issue, you should see the updated by-laws posted on the updated web site we’ve all been waiting for. Or perhaps, like waiting for roses to bloom or tomatoes to ripen, it may take a little more time. What patience we can all learn by allowing the time necessary to do the job right! In fact, we need to remember that preparing and amending our soil appropriately now will result in much richer results from our garden later.

As you probably know, our much-anticipated first official elections are contingent on the putting the updated by-laws in place. Once we have ìplantedî them, we can start the process for the election. We are hoping to send ballots by June. We are proceeding with the preparations that we can make now, in order to reap the harvest as early as possible. The Conference Committee has decided on April 23-26 in Houston, Texas, for our 2009 conference, so spruce up your Texas twang!

Just as good gardeners know how important it is to enrich the soil they work, and mulch and weed to keep a good environment working for them, we IAABC behavior consultants know how important it is to continue our education and to keep ourselves current on new ideas and research. With this in mind, the board is very excited to announce plans to help further the education of our members. We are formulating a series of telecourses, available at no charge to our associate and certified members (and for a nominal charge to the affiliate members). Each series will be built around one of the five core competencies. These telecourses will help to satisfy certification requirements for Associate members and will enable certified members to earn required CEUs. Look for messages to the e-mail lists about this exciting new program some time this summer.

As do all diligent gardeners, we in the IAABC will continue to face long days of planning for future growth, preparation to make that possible, sowing seeds of cooperation and opportunity, weeding through problems, and harvesting our efforts. To get done all that we need to, we are adding and updating committeesówhich will provide more opportunities for the membership to become involved. To meet the workload, we need your help! Please contact Jim Aikenhead, our very own human resources manager, at [email protected] today to let him know about your talents

Message from the Board

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Member News and Committee Reports

Fund? I am donating a portion of what I earn from my behavior book, Rover, Get Off Her Leg!, to the fund. I use the fund when I want to give a gift to someone who seems to have enough of everything. It is my hope that it will make a difference. And my mother’s name will live on. Donations can be sent to: AKC/CHF,P.O. Box 37941, Raleigh, NC 27627-7941. Or you can click on www.akcchf.org, then click Donate Now. Be sure to state that the donation is for the Behavior Fund or The Marcia Polimer Abrams Fund for Canine Behavior Studies.”

From the IAABC’s Division of Human-Animal Mutualism Development Committee The IAABC’s Division of Human-Animal Mutualism Development Committee is a group of IAABC members interested in all aspects of working animals. The name Human-Animal Mutualism is based on the biological definition of mutualism: an advantageous relationship between two organisms of different species that benefits both and harms neither. Members of the committee affectionately refer to themselves as “HAMsters.”

The division’s objectives are to promote mutualism in relationships of humans who work with animals such as service animals, therapy animals, animals trained to assist in public safety, animals trained for search and rescue, and companion animals. We also consider the dogs who are trained to detect cancer and other diseases as service animals. Although dogs are the most common service animal, our group is not limited to dogs, but includes all types of service animals.

We provide educational resources, guidance, and support to behavior consultants and to the public on how to meet the unique needs of humans and animals in working and companion partnerships. We monitor such things as the availability of air travel for service animals, public accommodations, public accessibility for service animals, and the treatment of disabled persons who use service animals. We are always interested in new developments regarding the use of service animals.

Currently the committee is not very active, but in the past we have written letters to officials in response to the lack of rescue efforts for the pets in the Hurricane Katrina disaster. We have also written to National Geographic magazine regarding the training methods used by Cesar Milan. We have drafted a disaster readiness document and guidelines for the handlers of working animals, and have worked on a document regarding the ethical behavior of handlers/trainers of service animals.

News Alerts! Jacqueline Munera and her rescue cat, Jazzmanda, recently passed the Delta Society Pet Partners evaluation and the Kay Laurence CAP 2 (Competency Assessment Programme) evaluation! CAP 2 is designed to test the handler’s clicker skills by evaluating their “ability to secure a solid foundation in achieving a consistent quality and reliability to cue and develop more complex behaviours in free shaping.” Jacqueline and Jazzmanda are the first human-cat team to pass any CAP level and the first human-cat team in the Tampa area to pass the Delta evaluation and register as Pet Partners. (For more information, visit the Delta Society at www.deltaSociety.org and CAP www.learningaboutdogs.com.)

Connie Dwyer, chair of the Horse Division, is writing a weekly horse behavior Q&A column for Horse Ice Cream.com, a Web site created to bring together and promote the growing horse community in Northeastern Pennsylvania and Southern Tier New York. You can read her column at www.horseicecream.com

Amy Shojai has become the official cat blogger on the NBC-Universal pet webchannel, www.petside.com. In February, she launched an online weekly half-hour radio podcast called Pet Peeves at www.petliferadio.com, which features subjects of interest to pet parents of all stripes. Amy also won a Maxwell Award from the Dogs Writers Association of America for her article “When Dogs Battle for Status at Home,” published in the September 2007 issue of Your Dog.

Pam Johnson-Bennett, chair of the Cat Division, had a book released in late 2007 called Starting from Scratch (Penguin Books), about solving behavior problems in cats. A totally revised and updated version of her case study book, Psycho Kitty, (Ten Speed Press) was released in March 2008. She is also the spokesperson for Friskies and has a blog featured on their web site, www.friskies.com.

Pat Miller’s new book, Positive Perspectives 2, was released by Dogwise Publishing in January 2008. It is a new collection of Pat’s articles from Whole Dog Journal and Your Dog, and includes sections on dog body language, advanced training concepts and behavior modification.

Darlene Arden writes, “After my mother died, nearly two years ago, I wanted to do something special to keep her name alive, something significant in her memory. After much thought, I created a Donor Advised Fund at the American Kennel Club’s Canine Health Foundation in her memory. The Marcia Polimer Abrams Fund for Canine Behavior Studies has been created to fund studies that will benefit both dogs and humans. More dogs die as a result of behavior problems than any one disease—across the board in all breeds and dogs of mixed heritage. I wonder what would happen if everyone donated just one dollar to the Behavior


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Case Study: Billie the Dalmatianby Simon Goodall

is standard for many of the dogs we see. The veterinarian found nothing that might contribute to the dog’s behavior. I recommended a blood test, but the owners did not get one. The veterinarian was on board with us in trying behavior modification with Billie.

The owners had left Billie at home from an early age. He had not shown any symptoms of separation anxiety until 5 months of age, when they came home to a small hole in the wall. After talking to a local trainer about the problem, it was recommend they get a Kong chew toy to relieve the boredom and increase the dog’s exercise to approximately one hour a day.

The problem of wall chewing had not stopped with the addition of the Kong, which is why they were referred to me. Separation anxiety is an issue that in New Zealand is only just being uncovered. While many trainers in New Zealand may know a little about the problem, many are unsure how to correctly recognize or deal with it. This is because many trainers are just realizing that separation anxiety is actually a problem. In the past years it had always been thought that the owner was not sufficiently in control or the dog was just bored. Over time, more research has started to appear regarding separation anxiety and veterinarians are accepting that with a behavior modification program, or behavior modification along with drugs, the chance of success is much greater than with drugs alone.

After talking to the owners. I wanted to work out whether the problem was separation anxiety or boredom. To do this, we set up a video camera in the room where Billie was kept and left him in the house alone for 10 minutes. Upon our return, we were greeted by a very excited dog showing his huge grin, wagging bottom and tail, relaxed eyes and ears, and no doubt very excited. If this is the only behavior we had seen, it would not have been a problem.

The owners and I sat down to look at the video and saw that within 20 seconds of the owners leaving, the dog started chewing the wall and did not stop until he heard the front door open. In addition to this, in the first 20 seconds when he did not chew, he was pacing around the house, licking his lips and whining—all signs of a stressed dog. Had we been gone for much longer, I am certain that numerous other signs would have also appeared.

Upon seeing the footage of their dog, the owners actually started to cry because they were upset at seeing their dog in such a stressed state. I believe, however, that having actual footage of the dog leads to greater success in the behavior modification program because the owners can concretely see the problem and become acutely aware that they have an issue.

We then started to put together a plan to get the dog used to being alone. The first step was to get rid of any cues that may have caused the dog stress when the owners started to leave. There were obvious ones, such as the jingle of keys and shutting doors and windows. There were also a few subtle ones, such as a simple

Billie was a 9-month-old neutered male Dalmatian who was referred to me by the local veterinarian because he was

showing signs of “boredom.” The main issue that was discussed on the phone was the chewing of the “gib” plaster wall. (Gib is the basic framework of the wall and is approximately two inches thick.) Upon further discussion, I recommended a behavioral consultation because it sounded more serious than boredom.

Separation anxiety can be divided into four categories:•

Exploratory behavior (extreme smelling around an area or • hunting for objects)

Object play (playing with something to take the dog’s stress • out on it)

Destruction of items•

Excessive vocalization (barking, howling, whining)•

In New Zealand, separation anxiety is a huge problem due to increased urbanization. Because barking is a symptom of separation anxiety, many people either hire or purchase bark collars, which are often recommended by the local animal control officials. This often creates more stress in the dog, and eventually the dog will come to a behaviorist or is left inside to minimize the barking.

Upon arriving at the house, I was greeted by a very friendly Dalmatian who appeared to be like any young dog—eager to please and very lovable. The owners and I sat down and discussed the Billie’s history using a questionnaire that I had designed specifically for dogs with separation anxiety. This questionnaire looks at areas that may be contributing to the problem. We ask if the dog could do the “stay” position, i.e., would he stay in a different room away from the owner(s)? Other questions include: What is your daily routine? Has this changed over the past few months? Who lives at home? How much exercise does the dog get? What type of food is he given? This questionnaire gives us an idea of whether we are simply looking at a bored dog or one with separation anxiety.

Billie had been purchased from a pet store in Auckland, New Zealand, at the age of 9 weeks. After the purchase, the owners took him to puppy classes at the local veterinarian. The owners had been to a local dog training school and Billie could sit, stay, come, walk without pulling and was an all-around well-trained dog. The one command they had not been able to do with Billie was stay.

Billie lived in a small house with two owners, husband and wife. There were no other animals present. There was a yard for Billie, approximately 400 square meters (4,300 square feet). The owners mentioned that he never went to the yard without them present.

Billie had a full veterinary check before we saw him—this

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Case Study: Billie the Dalmatian

Both of the owners participated in the training and were fully committed. Although they were a little skeptical at first, once they saw the small changes that were already happening, they agreed to continue with the training plan.

At conclusion of the training session, I gave the owners a full write-up of the program to follow. I was fortunate that the owners were able to take the dog to work while working on this program. The program is outlined below, and is what I use for most dogs with separation anxiety. If the steps do not work, I may recommend talking to a veterinarian about prescribing clomicalm in association with a behavior modification program. This can be useful in increasing the initial stress threshold of the dog.

Step 8: Go out the door, shut door, wait 10 seconds and return.

Step 9: Go out the door, wait 15 seconds and return.

Step 10: Go out the door, wait 20 seconds and return.

Step 11: Go out the door, go to the car, open the car door, shut the car door and return.

Step 12: Go out the door, go to the car, open the car door, leave it open for five seconds, shut the car door and return.

Step 13: Go out door, go to the car, open the car door, start the car, turn off car and return.

Step 14: Go out the door, go to the car, start the car and drive down the driveway, turn off the car and return.

Step 15: Continue these steps with the owners away longer, the car gone longer and Billie left alone for longer.

This program was given to the owners and I advised them that if they were able to get to about half an hour with Billie alone and showing no signs of stress, they were probably done. Billie was not expected to remain in the stay position this whole time. I have personally found that if a dog is still relaxed in the home after about half an hour, they can generally last an entire day.

Follow-up Week 1: The owners said Billie had been chewing the walls for the first four days when left for short periods. However, he was not stressing out at the sight of the car keys anymore.

Week 2: One small hole in the wall found, but nothing compared to the original problem.

Week 3: No holes showing.

Week 4: Still no holes showing, and has been nearly three weeks since Billie has chewed a hole in the wall.

Two months: I received an e-mail from the owners saying Billie had stopped chewing walls and all the walls they had repaired had, for the first time stayed, the way they were left.

This case was helped by the fact that the owners practiced the program. Many of our separation consultations have concluded this same way. I find the age of the dog is a big factor, because if the dog is too old, the behavior is so ingrained that it takes a

“bye” they gave the dog or getting the dog bed ready. We started to associate these cues with positive occurrences or an action that did not include leaving the house. For example, for the keys we had the owners sometime hold the keys, jingle them and put them in their pockets and sit down. Other times they would get the keys and play with a ball. For some of the minor cues, we stopped them altogether. For example, before leaving the house the owners no longer said “bye.”

We started to teach Billie the stay command. This was done by getting Billie to sit and stay, taking a small step back and returning and giving him a food reward. The owners had already reported that Billie was brilliant in all aspects in training other than the stay command with the owners out of sight. We worked on stay because if Billie could not even get used to staying while the owners were just around the corner, there was no way he would be relaxed about staying when they were not in the house.

After two minutes of working on the stay out of sight with the owners, we took a break and took Billie for a walk around the block to so he did not get too stressed out. Ten minutes later, we returned to the house to resume the training.

This time we extended the time that Billie was in the stay position. We took five steps back, waited five seconds, then returned and rewarded. We then took this further by taking a step back for each stay command until we reached 10 steps and we were just by the door to the room.

The next step was to start to leave the dog. This was done in small steps, in a single training session. The first step was to walk to the door, just past the door and return. Billie was rewarded with a food treat but was not given a large greeting. The steps that followed are listed below:

Step 2: Dog is in stay position, owners walk to door, walk past door and then return.

Step 3: Dog is in stay position, owners walk to door, start to shut door, then reopen and return to dog.

Step 4: Dog is in stay position, owners walk to door, start to shut the door a little more than in step three, then reopen and return.

Step 5: Dog is in stay position, owners walk through the door, shut it completely, reopen, then return to the dog.

Step 6: Dog is in stay position, owners walk through the door, shut it completely, wait two seconds, then return to the dog.

Step 7: As in step six, but owners wait five seconds.

Once the dog could stay for five seconds, as in step seven, I ended the training session. Even though in the consultation we ended up with the dog able to be alone for only five seconds, this was as long as Billie could handle before he started to stress out. I did not want to do any further training during the session, because I wanted to end with Billie on a good note. With other clients we may wait anywhere from five seconds to two minutes, depending on how severe the anxiety is. This prevents owner and dog fatigue.

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Case Study: Billie the Dalmatian

lot longer for him to learn to relax. But the biggest hurdle I face is owner compliance. This treatment can take weeks, and some owners just want a quick fix.

Simon Goodall is the director of Dog Guru Ltd. (http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~dogguru/about.htm) in New Zealand and is well known for his work with aggression and separation anxiety. Simon is an associate member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants and holds a Bachelor of Science degree.

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no states that had legalized pet trusts. As of August 2005, there were 14 states that had legalized pet trusts in some form. They are Arizona, California, Colorado, Hawaii, Missouri, Montana, New Mexico, New York, Nevada, North Carolina, Oregon, Tennessee, Utah and Wisconsin. To discover the status of laws governing pet trusts in your state, contact you state attorney general’s office or check with your local humane society. If pet trusts are not legal in your state, contact your state representatives and let them know your feelings on the subject.

You should also find out if the Uniform Trust Act has been enacted in your state. About 19 states have ratified the Uniform Trust Act. This legislation is very important for anyone who has parrots or other long lived species. If you keep a species that is expected to live longer than 21 years, there may be a problem with what is called the rule against perpetuities. The rule against perpetuities prevent trusts that last forever (or beyond the lifetime of a specifically identified human being). The Uniform Trust Act would allow for the care of an animal regardless of how long the animal lives.

Find a Local Trust and Probate Attorney There are web sites that provide you with sample documents you can use as a template for your pet trust. However, laws and interpretations differ greatly from state to state, making it important that you find an experienced local trust and probate attorney. You may want to begin your search at www.Lawyer.com, www.Estateplanningforpets.org or www.Animallaw.info.

Preparations Before Seeing a Lawyer Before consulting a lawyer, you should be prepared. This will help keep your expenses reasonable. Know how you want your parrots to be cared for. Outline the expected care in detail. Know how much money you spend on your bird and even make a video that shows your daily interaction and care.

Your last will and testament may not be executed precisely as you stipulated. It is possible for a judge to overturn your will at the insistence of family members who feel that you are eccentric or incompetent and the money left for your birds is excessive. If you keep records that clearly indicate how much money you have spent on feeding, housing, providing toys and veterinary care, it will be more difficult for anyone to claim that you are providing your bird with unreasonable and extravagant financial support and less likely that a court will declare your will invalid.

Caring for parrots can be expensive. If you want to ensure that they will be properly cared for according to your wishes, you must make arrangements to provide financially for your parrots.

Parrots are a long-lived species and can outlive their human companions. The transition for them will always be traumatic,

but it can be eased with proper preparation. When plans are not made, parrots are often thrust into the hands of family, friends or neighbors who are not qualified to care for them. They may even be resentful of being saddled with a responsibility that they did not agree to undertake. These parrots may end up being sold at auction or kept in the homes of naive individuals who, through their lack of knowledge, may cause a once happy and well-adjusted parrot to become a behavioral consultant’s nightmare. Although I have no legal training, I have often been asked by my clients how they can provide for their birds once the client dies or becomes too feeble to care for their birds. Consequently, their concerns became my concerns.

There is a story about a wealthy old woman who kept a Military Macaw as a companion from the time she was a young girl. The old woman died without any heirs and in her will she made provisions for her entire household staff to keep their jobs. This included the maids, the butler, the gardener the chauffeur and the handy man. They would all have jobs until they retired, quit or died, provided that her Military Macaw was still alive and living in her home. She was very careful to outline his care and to ensure his continued care in her last will and testament. She lived on a large estate and the developers lurked close by, ready to swoop down to acquire and subdivide her land. They would make a fortune. How long could a parrot live anyway? Surely he would soon join his mistress.

Years went by and the macaw remained vibrant and very alive. This bird had what seemed to be an abnormally long life. Eventually, the entire household staff either died or retired. Finally, the bird joined the old lady who had provided for his long, happy life. Or perhaps more than one Military Macaw joined the old woman in heaven. A rumor surrounding the estate suggested that the bird died of old age not long after his mistress, and was subsequently replaced by another Military Macaw so that the household staff would not have to find new jobs. In any case, I am certain the old woman would have been happy to have ensured a good life for more than one bird.

Most of us do not have as much money as the old lady in this story. We do not have a household staff that is familiar with the everyday care of our parrots. So if we are truly committed to our parrots, we find ourselves agonizing over their future without us. Providing for our parrots, once we have left this world, is still possible.

Pet Trusts and the Uniform Trust ActI do not know if the story about the old lady and her Military Macaw is true. When I first heard it many years ago, there were

Preparing Your Parrots for a Future Without Youby Kashmir Csaky

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Preparing Your Parrots for a Future Without You

Parrot breeders, who have spent years working with their birds and keeping good breeding records, may also want to ensure that their work continues. Even if they do not have a strong emotional attachment to their parrots, they may still want their work to continue in the hands of a respected colleague. A trust will guarantee that the birds are not sold at auction and that their research will not come to a halt.

Determining Who Will Care for Your Parrots Once you have decided how you want your parrots cared for and how you will fund the trust, you must decide who will be given the responsibility of caring for your birds when you die. When searching for the correct person or facility for your birds, consider the following:

There are sanctuaries that keep birds without the intention of ever placing the bird in a home as a pet. If your birds are elderly or handicapped, if you want to be certain that the flock is kept together or if you have one very crabby bird, a sanctuary may be the right place for your birds.

If your parrots crave human interaction then consider placing your birds with a friend, a relative or a rescue/shelter/adoption organization that will re-home your birds. The organization you choose should have a good reputation and should assure you that they will periodically check on your parrots. Ask them how many parrots they have placed and what the success rate is for the parrots they have re-homed. Find out how they determine who will be allowed to adopt parrots from them and what criteria they use to determine if the adoption has been successful. If an adoption has failed, what protocols do they use to retrieve the birds and what will be done with the birds at that point? Adoption services may be provided by local bird clubs.

If your parrots are young, healthy and rare or show a strong desire to procreate, consider a reputable breeder. Breeders should be evaluated with the same careful scrutiny that you would apply to a rescue/shelter organization or a sanctuary. Ask the breeder for references and talk to the breeder’s veterinarian. If your parrot is rare, the breeder should have succeeded in breeding that species or a very similar species. Is the facility clean? Are the flights large and roomy? Will the birds be provided with a nutritious diet? How will the chicks be reared and what will become of them? What will become of your bonded or proven pairs if their mates die? If your single parrot is paired, what will happen if your bird’s mate dies? If your single birds will not pair bond, what will become of your birds?

Quarantine The primary goal of all rescues, shelters and sanctuaries should be to provide a healthy atmosphere for all their charges. Therefore, their first objective should be to build a state-of-the-art quarantine facility. In recent times, more than one rescue center has allegedly suffered major outbreaks of fatal and contagious

Have a detailed description of the property that will fund the trust. For example, will the trust be funded from the sale of your home, an insurance policy or a savings account?

As the person funding the trust, you are the “grantor” of the trust. You must fund the trust with enough property or cash to care for your bird for his expected lifetime. The “trustee,” a trusted third party will be responsible for making regular payments to your pet’s caregiver, and must also use the money you left to pay for any unexpected miscellaneous expenses.

As stated earlier, pet trusts are not legal in all states. One reason is that animals cannot appear in court to enforce their own trusts. If you live in a state in which a pet trust is not legal, an alternative is a Conditional Bequest. In this Traditional Legal Trust your bird becomes a part of the estate along with the funds you specify to care for your parrot. The caregiver becomes the beneficiary; the trustee oversees the trust to ensure that the beneficiary is following your instructions. It is essential that this trust is well worded. Other alternatives include honorary and statutory pet trusts. However, a traditional legal trust is much more flexible and enforceable than the other two alternatives.

Distribution of Funds Money should be disbursed to the caregiver monthly or weekly and not in a single large sum. The trustee should periodically check on your birds’ level of care to make sure your money is being spent according to your wishes. All birds should be identifiable, perhaps by a microchip, and medical records should be sent to the trustee. Additional funds should be made available if they are needed.

If your bird dies, the establishment or person taking care of the bird should not continue to receive money for that bird. Unethical persons may take very poor care of the parrots, hoping the birds will die so that they can collect the entire inheritance. Any remaining funds should be donated to another worthy charity or project.

Have an alternative care plan for your birds, as well. Provide the trustee with a possible second caregiver. If the trustee discovers that the original caregiver is no longer able to maintain the care you expected for your parrots, he or she can quickly transfer the birds to the care of the alternate.

Final Decision The final decision that must be included in a trust is what will be done with the pet’s body when he dies. After a necropsy has been performed, you may choose to have the pet’s body buried in a pet cemetery. If you plan to have your own body cremated and the ashes scattered, you may decide to have your pet’s body cremated and the ashes scattered in the same location.

Pet Trusts Are for Breeders, too Pet trusts are not just for companion parrots owners.

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Preparing Your Parrots for a Future Without You

parrots, you have the right to ask them to voluntarily allow you to review their finances so that you can be reasonably certain the facility will not fold while your birds are in their care.

Conclusion There are no rescues, shelters or sanctuaries that cater to parrots that have a long-running history. So leaving your parrots to one is a gamble. Once you are gone, your birds’ life will be different. Schedules will be changed, food will never be exactly the same and no one will have the same relationship with your parrots that you have. Yet, different is not necessarily bad. It is just different. If you do your research, make preparations and carefully plan your parrots’ future, your parrots can have a full and happy life.

Kashmir Csaky is an international speaker, writer and behavioral consultant. Her papers have been translated into Spanish, Italian, German, Portuguese, Russian, Polish and Czechoslovakian. Her articles have appeared in Bird Talk, Companion Parrot Quarterly, Parrots Magazine, Parrot Information Pages, Psittascene, Watchbird, the German and Czech publications Papageien and Nova Exota, and in numerous newsletters and journals. She has advised zoos and private aviculturists on breeding Macaws, artificial incubation procedures, hand-raising chicks and parent-rearing chicks. Kashmir was the first breeder known to co-parent Hyacinth Macaws.

diseases. Anyone acquiring a new bird has a responsibility to quarantine.

Quarantine is an even greater responsibility for those who have been entrusted with someone’s dear lifetime companion. As people grow older and cannot care for their parrots, they place these birds with others that they feel will cherish their parrots. A lack of quarantine and good medical upkeep violates this trust. Do not leave your birds with anyone who is not providing adequate quarantine.

It is unwise to leave your parrots with anyone without seeing their facility. It is important that the facility is clean and that the parrots they keep appear healthy and, hopefully, happy. However, do not allow the presence of feather-picked birds to color your judgment. Many people give up their parrots because they are feather picking and this is in no way a reflection of the care the facility provides.

Management of the Facility When researching a facility, ask for references and check out the references. The facility should have at least two veterinarians, so that one of the veterinarians will be available in an emergency. Speak to the veterinarians and get their honest evaluation of the facility.

Sanctuaries need a large staff due to the nature of the birds in there care. I recommend two resident full-time caregivers and one part-time worker if there are 30 birds or less. Additional part-time personnel will be required in larger sanctuaries so that the ratio of birds to part-time workers is never more than 30 to one.

When interviewing the people who will care for your parrots, make sure they are knowledgeable about the species of parrots you have. They should be aware of and able to satisfy the different requirements of each species they keep. A solid background and knowledge about handling behavioral problems is essential. An evacuation plan in the event of a disaster is imperative. They should know the signs of illness and how to detect it.

During this interview, they should never dismiss your concerns. You must feel confident that they will continue their avian education and stay current on all new developments in avian medical care and diet. If they are attending conventions and lectures regularly, then at least you know they are interested in maintaining their education in avian matters.

Another question to ask is the extent to which they will go to save a bird at the facility. When will they decide that no more money can be spent on an individual? Sad as it may be, there must be a cutoff point to prevent the organization from going bankrupt and keep all the other birds from suffering due to the condition of one individual.

Hopefully you will have made financial arrangements for your parrots and outlined how much money will be spent on each individual. If they are a charitable organization, their financial records should be open to you for review. If you intend to leave your parrots to a facility and provide financial support for your

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By videotaping my training sessions, I was able to view the learning process more completely because I could observe my own effect on Jazzmanda’s behavioral responses. This is a good way to evaluate how to improve training skills and reduce trainer “noise” (extraneous physical and verbal cuing), which, in turn, enables the animal trainee to more easily understand what the target behavior is. During a training session, it is easy to dedicate so much focus on Jazzmanda’s responses that I am unaware of ways in which I am sending her mixed signals or being unclear in my requests. The video and practice sessions taught me to focus on my own body posture, signaling and responses concurrent with my focus on Jazzmanda’s actions. Unfortunately, due to the environment and lack of additional filming staff, it was difficult to videotape everything and therefore not all sessions were recorded.

Both respondent (classical) conditioning and instrumental (operant) conditioning techniques were used during the process of preparing Jazzmanda for the CAP 2, even though the evaluation is designed to assess the trainer’s skill in applying a sound marker during instrumental conditioning sessions only.

Respondent conditioning is primarily linked to Russian physiologist Dr. Ivan Pavlov, through his work with the canine digestive system. He investigated the link between an unconditioned physical process, salivation, and an anticipatory conditioned process, such as a sound that predicts the arrival of a desired food treat (Powell, Symbal and Macdonald 2004). Respondent conditioning focuses on elicited behavior that is controlled by the stimuli that precedes it (Powell, et al., 2004).

Respondent conditioning played an important role in this project, because one of the goals while working with Jazzmanda, or any other animal, is always to ensure that she enjoys each training session. Through multiple pairings of training with treats, petting and toys, Jazzmanda demonstrates apparent enjoyment of training sessions by presenting emotional behaviors indicative of excitement and what I can best describe as joy at the appearance of training paraphernalia such as clicker, treats, mat and target stick. Her excitement is indicated through multiple outwardly visible signs, such as dilated pupils, circling with tail high and ears up and forward, as well as by a dramatic increase in meow vocalizations, which have been demonstrated as a primary human attention-getting technique used by cats living with humans, although vocalizations are used far less frequently between cats (Bradshaw and Cameron-Beaumont, 2000; Brown, 1993).

Jazzmanda not only displays behaviors that are indicative of her excitement, such as the vocalizations and circling, but she also does not display any stress behaviors, such as avoidance, threatening body postures or aggression. If aversive training

Abstract The Competency Assessment Programme (CAP) is an evaluation designed by British trainer Kay Laurence to test a handler’s clicker training skills, such as session planning, marker timing, reinforcement delivery and handler body awareness. A 3-year-old, female, domestic shorthair calico cat, Jazzmanda, was trained with a clicker and food treats in multiple behaviors. These behaviors were digitally recorded and submitted to be evaluated at the CAP 2 level, which was evaluated as a Pass with Merit.

The Competency Assessment Programme (CAP) Level 2

B.F. Skinner is often considered the father of modern behaviorism, but it is unlikely he imagined the influence his ideas would have on the growing field of animal training. Skinner’s pigeons pecking a puzzle boxes have morphed into a burgeoning force of self-termed “positive” trainers who focus on a teamwork approach to companion animal training, as opposed to more forceful training based on military models. Clicker training, one method that uses reward-based training, is the focus of this article.

British trainer Kay Laurence designed a program to assess clicker use skills at various trainer levels, from Novice 1 through Advanced 4. (See Laurence’s web site at www.learningaboutdogs.com for full details on the training skills evaluated at the prerequisite level 1, as well as level 2, the focus of this project.)

The Competency Assessment Programme (CAP) was initially designed to evaluate dog training skills. However, approval was given for the first cat assessment at Level 2 with Jazzmanda, after I had a previous successful evaluation with a dog, Zen.

The CAP assesses trainer skills such as planning, timing, reward delivery and body awareness. The requirement that the animal has been trained by the person attempting the CAP is in place to ensure that the animal trainee has not been prepared for the testing by someone else. Test designer, Kay Laurence, created an evaluation form that is designed to focus on the trainer’s skills in an attempt to eliminate ambiguity between handler and animal abilities. Also, the procedure is devised to assess the human, and therefore the animal is technically not being evaluated. However, I am a bit skeptical about the ability to evaluate only the human’s performance, because each animal trainee is an individual and will not necessarily learn or progress at the same rate as another trainee. For example, a dog who is very quick to learn a new skill or is overly forgiving of human error may make his human trainer appear more skilled than they actually are.

Competency Assessment Programme (CAP) Level 2with Feline Jazzmanda

by Jacqueline Munera


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One section of the test requires the trainer to switch to a different reinforcer such as a toy, so a squeaky stuffed bird on a string and plastic pole was chosen. Jazzmanda did not appear thrilled with this change of reinforcement, as demonstrated by her lack of interest in the toy and continued search for a food treat.

The test performance was recorded on a Sony home digital video recorder, transferred to computer and burned to a CD the evaluator could view.

Procedure: The CAP requires the use of the clicker to train three behaviors to a consistent quality, with reliability to cue. It also requires the trainer to develop more complex behaviors by free shaping.

The first behavior was required to be trained by targeting, with the target subsequently faded out and the behavior cued verbally. I chose a recall for the targeting behavior. This behavior was shaped using a Premier Clik Stik, a collapsible target stick with a built-in clicker, beginning at fully extended length, about one inch in front of Jazzmanda’s nose. As she sniffed at the target, the marker was clicked and she was rewarded with a small piece of chicken treat. This was repeated approximately three times before the target stick was moved farther away from her nose as well as at different angles.

Within one five-minute session, the target stick could be moved while she approached, therefore beginning a follow behavior. Reinforcement was on a continuous schedule with each nose target. Jazzmanda generally showed very limited or no post-reinforcement pauses, possibly in part due to the low level difficulty of the target behavior paired with the high desirability of the chicken treats.

After a few trials with success at touching and following the target stick, a verbal signal of a tongue “tsk” sound was added that would become the recall cue after the target stick was faded. As Jazzmanda approached the target stick, the sound was paired with her movement, the marker clicked as she touched the target, and she was reinforced with chicken treats.

Jazzmanda had been previously trained to sit on a mat, and this was used as a sit-stay cue to precede the recall cue in this project. After variable time (approximately two seconds through 10 seconds) on the mat, I made the “tsk, tsk, tsk” cue sound and she moved to the target, being held at variable distances (approximately one foot to 14 feet) away from the mat. The marker was clicked and Jazzmanda was reinforced with chicken treats when she reached the fully extended target.

As each stage reached a consistent response of eight correct out of 10 attempts, the criteria was raised by increasing distance, moving out of the cat’s line of sight and gradually fading the target stick by making it smaller, until the behavior transferred to a pointed index finger and finally to no target at all, only the verbal “tsk.” Reinforcement was maintained on a continuous schedule throughout this testing.

During the initial training stages, only one behavior was practiced or learned in each training session. However, several short sessions were held each day, so different behaviors could be learned or practiced on the same day. No behavior was

methods were chosen instead, it would be reasonable to assume the aversive conditioning process would lead to training sessions becoming an undesirable activity. But Jazzmanda has given no indication of this.

Instrumental conditioning, the main focus of this project, concentrates on the effects consequences have on their preceding behaviors (Powell, et al., 2004). As Jazzmanda performs a desired behavior, it is reinforced by delivering a reward she desires, thereby increasing the likelihood she will repeat that behavior. In general, negative reinforcement was not used during this project, with the exception of a head turn away and withdrawal of reward for incorrect responses to a cue (only after the cued behavior had been learned and generalized). This negative punishment—removal of desired attention—was done as a way to manage Jazzmanda’s tendency to throw out random behaviors in response to a given cue and to anticipate which cue might be given next.

A secondary, conditioned reinforcer was an integral part of this project because the CAP evaluates the trainer’s skill at using the clicker to mark and reinforce an animal’s behavior. The clicker sound becomes a conditioned reinforcer through multiple pairings with a primary, unconditioned reinforcer, such as food. The clicker can also become a generalized secondary reinforcer through association with other reinforcers, such as play and affection, if those are desired by the trainee (Powell, et al. 2004). (See the Glossary for more information on terminology.)

The extrinsic reinforcers, food, affection and play, were obvious reward choices during this project, but at least one intrinsic reinforcer was used as well—the “bang” behavior. This behavior consists of a fall over on the cat’s side from a stand, and was easily captured due to high frequency of occurrence and obvious enjoyment Jazzmanda had in performing the behavior on her own. The “bang” behavior was then useable as an additional reinforcer following a less enjoyable task or to end a difficult session with a success.

Training Method Participant: The female domestic shorthair calico cat trained for the CAP 2 evaluation was approximately three years old at the beginning of the training sessions. She was adopted based on her gregarious nature from a humane society about 10 months before the evaluation.

Materials: Two different sound markers were used for training purposes: the plastic hand held i-Click made by Karen Pryor; and the target stick/clicker-in-one, Clik Stik, made by Premier. The Clik Stik was used for the targeting behavior because it is easier to use than a separate target stick and clicker combination. Though it does have a very similar sound to the i-Click and Jazzmanda did not appear confused by the difference, it is generally easy to change marker sounds if needed by simply reinforcing the new sound.

A round, wicker table placemat from Crate N Barrel was used as a station area for the stay behavior followed by evaluated recall behavior. Reinforcement was primarily Halo Liv-a-Little dehydrated chicken treats, concurrent with praise and stroking.

Competency Assessment Programme (CAP) Level 2 with Feline Jazzmanda

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pattern, I took my hand away and waited for her to calm down before beginning again. With continued sessions, these instances became less and less frequent until they were not exhibited even in the presence of a competing cat or dog.

A verbal cue was added, but was not used during the CAP evaluation because the fact that the paw wave was chosen to satisfy the “visual cue only” behavior requirement. In fact, I made a mistake on this part of the test, saying the verbal cue “wave” while giving the visual cue. I noticed the error immediately and repeated the visual paw wave cue without the verbal component.

The CAP 2 requires each of the three chosen behaviors to be repeated six times in a row while the handler varies body position and the animal’s location. This test was videotaped in my house primarily in the kitchen and living room. I varied my body position, for example standing on one leg, facing away from Jazzmanda, and moving my arms around.

All behaviors were performed on cue as described earlier, with the addition of a novel visual signal for “bang” to demonstrate a cue change. This was done by presenting the new cue (right hand held out in a claw shape) followed by the old verbal cue, “bang.” After a few repetitions, the new visual cue was presented without the old verbal cue. Jazzmanda anticipated the presentation of “bang” and performed the behavior. A few more repetitions on visual cue only, no verbal cue, were performed with 100 percent accuracy.

The final aspect of the CAP evaluation—free shape a novel behavior and then add movement—was the most challenging for Jazzmanda and myself. The activity I chose was to jump onto a small stool and then turn in a circle. Free shaping uses the clicker to mark any small approximations towards the desired end behavior. In this instance, the behaviors marked were: looking toward the stool, stepping toward the stool, pawing at the stool, putting a foot on the stool, and so on until she actually stepped up on the stool with all four feet. This was highly rewarded with praise and treats while she was on the stool, then a treat was thrown off the stool to get her to jump off and repeat the behavior.

This was done many times before moving on to try for the spin on the stool. The spin was very difficult, possibly in part due to the extended length of time Jazzmanda had been performing behaviors for the CAP video. By the time I began free shaping the spin on a stool, Jazzmanda had been working for approximately 20 minutes with no breaks, which was much longer than she had ever done in the past.

The shaping session was ended after 10 minutes because Jazzmanda was exhibiting stress and was not interested in continuing. This left the spin unfinished. There was enough video of the shaping techniques to pass the section, though. The evaluator commented that Jazzmanda was pushed too long on the shaping segment.

Results Dee Ganley evaluated my CAP 2 test through video burned to a CD. The test went well except for the previously mentioned issue with the length of the shaping portion. Full points were not

completely generalized and under solid stimulus control before another behavior was begun. Once fluency and consistency were achieved with a behavior, it was put into future training sessions along with a novel behavior, in part to maintain Jazzmanda’s interest in training and avoid boredom, and also to require more discrimination between actions. For example, after Jazzmanda had a session in which she began learning a paw wave, the mat was brought out so she could run to it and sit on it for reinforcement. The go-to-mat behavior was the first behavior she was taught and had become highly rewarding, so it was used to end the session on a high note. The mat was then incorporated in a later session by asking for a paw wave behavior while Jazzmanda was sitting on it, thereby furthering generalization of learned behaviors.

The second behavior chosen was “bang,” the play-dead type behavior described earlier that Jazzmanda frequently displayed on her own. The training process with this behavior used capture techniques by clicking and reinforcing Jazzmanda when she lay on her back. Training began on a rug that Jazzmanda frequently lay on to increase odds that she would volunteer a lying down behavior, which was then markable. This is precisely what occurred, and initially the click was sounded as she lay down in any position. As Jazzmanda began to deliberately demonstrate the down behavior, the marker was withheld to initiate the next approximation of the “bang” position.

Within the first training session of approximately ten minutes, the “bang” was fully formed on a verbal cue on the rug. I attempted to keep out any visual cueing to avoid confusion at a later time—when the “bang” would be switched to a visual hand cue that would first be seen by Jazzmanda during the CAP test. Future sessions concentrated on generalizing the verbal “bang” cue in multiple locations throughout the house while contorting my body in strange positions, again to avoid confusion of a visual cue and achieve saliency of the verbal cue.

The third behavior chosen for the CAP evaluation was a paw wave, which needed to be on a verbal-only cue reliable in multiple locations. The visual cue was chosen based on my hand position during a lure motion, which was used to initiate a paw wave as the cat attempted to reach the treat. Specifically, the cue consisted of my right index finger held up and repeatedly flexed up and down while my other fingers and thumb were held closed.

The treat was shown to Jazzmanda, then put under the closed fingers and held above paw reach length in front of her face. Any approximation of lifting a foot to reach toward the hand was initially marked and rewarded. Then, progressively, only more accurate actions were reinforced. If Jazzmanda sat up on her back feet with both front feet leaving the ground, no marker or reinforcement was given, the treat was moved away and placed a bit closer to her head so she was less likely to rise up. This a process, in which small approximations are rewarded until the desired, more complex behavior is achieved, is called “shaping.”

Jazzmanda did have a few challenges with the wave behavior, possibly due in part to her tendency to hoard food. The food held over her head occasionally triggered a reaction in which her pupils fully dilated, she broke position and she tried to grab my hand. As soon as I noticed the signs signaling the onset of this

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received on the shaping portion due to excessive use of luring in attempt to prompt the spin.

A comment was also made that the optional reinforcer, the toy, was not reinforcing enough. Jazzmanda is primarily reinforced by food and it is especially difficult to encourage attention to a toy after using food treats in the same session. The evaluator did make note that verbal praise and petting was reinforcing to Jazzmanda and could have been used as an alternative to a toy.

We received a Pass with Merit, which qualifies us to test for CAP 3 in the future.

Discussion The CAP 2 was done through video evaluation. Previously, I had passed the CAP 1 through a live evaluation with Kay Laurence. There is a vast contrast in difficulty between the different evaluation methods.

The live CAP 1 was much less stressful for me because the evaluator was giving constant feedback and encouragement. The evaluator assisted in tracking the number of repetitions, stating when to add handler movement and change locations, reinforcer type, and clicker hand and treat delivery methods. I was also to focus much more simply on the training aspects with the animal, as opposed to counting repetitions and wondering if all test activities have been included. During the live evaluation, there is also an opportunity to ask questions of the evaluator.

Jazzmanda and I enjoyed our training sessions and plan to continue them in the future for exhibit during Delta Pet Partners visits with autistic children in the Buddy Breaks organization. We have begun work on the CAP 3 test, which is very challenging and involves creating behavior chains under a one-cue stimulus, more complex free shaping, keeping data on progression of learning, and being able to interpret that data.

Jacqueline Munera teaches numerous group dog classes and specializes in canine aggression issues at Courteous Canine, Inc., in Florida. She also goes to school full time at the Honors College of Florida, where she pursues studies in animal cognition and behavior while managing a mixed family of human and rescued non-human animals. Jacqueline is also actively working on her IAABC certifications, CASI canine behavior courses and cat-dog interrelations studies. Jazzmanda is the first feline Delta Society Pet Partner registered in the Tampa Bay area and the first CAP cat in the world. She loves to lie in the sun, eat chicken treats and bother her adopted canine brother.

Glossary

Conditioned response—the response elicited by a conditioned stimulus

Conditioned stimulus—any stimulus that, although initially neutral, comes to elicit a conditioned response because it has been associated with an unconditioned stimulus

Fading—the process of gradually altering the intensity of a stimulus to a lower level

Generalized (or generalized secondary reinforcer)—a type of secondary reinforcer that has been associated with several other reinforcers

Primary (or unconditioned) reinforce—-an event that is innately reinforcing

Secondary (or conditioned) reinforcer—an event that is reinforcing because it has been associated with some other reinforcer

Shaping—gradually creating a new operant behavior by reinforcing successive approximations of that behavior

Stimulus—any event that can potentially influence behavior

Stimulus control—a situation in which the presence of a discriminative stimulus reliably affects the probability of a behavior

Unconditioned response—the response that is naturally elicited by the unconditioned stimulus

Unconditioned stimulus—a stimulus that naturally elicits a response

ReferencesBrown, S. L.. The social behaviour of neutered domestic cats. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, University of Southampton, U.K., 1993.

Bradshaw, J. W. S., & Cameron-Beaumont, C. L.. The signaling repertoire of the domestic cat and its undomesticated relatives. In D. C. Turner & P. Bateson (Eds.), The domestic cat: The biology of its behaviour (2nd ed., pp. 67–93). Cambridge, U.K.: Cambridge University, 2000.

Gordon, Anne. Show Biz Tricks for Cats. Holbrook, MA: Adams Media Corporation, 1996.

Laurence, Kay. Clicker Intermediate Training. Chipping Camden, Gloucestershire, U.K.: Learning About Dogs Limited, 2004.


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Powell, Russell A., Diane G. Symbal , and Suzanne E. MacDonald. Introduction to Learning and Behavior. 2nd ed. Belmont, CA: Wadsworth/Thompson Learning, 2005.

Pryor, Karen. Getting Started: Clicker Training for Cats. Waltham, MA: Sunshine Books, Inc., 2001.

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Beyond Bossy: Feline Status Aggressionby Mikel Maria Delgado, CCBC

exhibited what could be defined as status aggressive behavior. The presentation in the shelter is similar to what is described by clients experiencing this form of aggression in the home.

We were able to observe some of these cats over an extended period, using a standardized evaluation process that has been in use and refined over the past 12 years. In cats showing behaviors that were more complex, we would have all three cat behavior specialists on staff separately evaluate the cat to see if the assessment was reliable. The cats in the shelter stay in condo-style housing; rooms vary in size from 25 square feet to 300 square feet. All rooms have cat trees, beds and toys–and give the cats the space to remove themselves from handling that they find threatening or irritating.

One trait we have found to be common in cats showing status aggression is sensitivity to restraint, especially being handled or held back around the chest area. Most of these cats are extremely confident, settling into the shelter environment within a day or two (many cats need several days to get comfortable). Almost all are “lap cats” and quite insistent on sitting on a human visitor, usually lying on the chest and facing the person. They often display mixed body language, including ear movement and tail swishing, with or without petting.

When overstimulated, these cats tend to stay on a lap rather than move away. Their bites are often hard, without inhibition or warning, and in many cases break skin. Even after aggressing, they will stay on a lap or try to return to sitting on the human’s chest within seconds. Extensive eye contact is also typical, and before biting, the pupils are constricted rather than dilated.

A few of these cats are very focused on faces and will lunge at the face rather than biting hands or arms when aggressing. Gerald, a two-year-old neutered male, was at the shelter for almost two months. He was immediately confident and demanding of attention. Daily progress reports noted that he was often sitting on a lap and intensely rubbing his cheeks against the faces of visitors. After about two weeks, volunteers noted an increase in biting tendencies.

His reevaluation progressed as follows: “Gerald was meowing and out of his tree immediately as I entered the room. I sat down and he planted himself on my lap, purring and rolling around. He definitely wanted to be on the lap but never fully relaxed or settled, instead, repositioning himself several times. He allowed some petting to his head, and I continually gave him breaks from petting. After about nine minutes, he suddenly lunged at my arm although he did not make contact. He had not given signals of irritation before this. After this, he wanted back on my lap and tried to crawl up toward my face. I blocked my face with my arm and he lunged and bit it. I stayed calm and he eventually backed down. After a brief time out from interaction, I brought out the interactive toy, which he played with for a good 10 to 15

Feline status aggression toward humans is an uncommon, little understood and much understudied behavior. There is

controversy about whether it truly even exists. This article will explore the traditionally accepted definition of this behavior, as well as the author’s observation of its presentation in two different settings: the animal shelter and the home environment. I will also cover special considerations for consulting with owners whose cats display these behaviors.

What Is Status Aggression? The general understanding of status aggression (also known as assertion or dominance aggression) is that it involves the desire to control a situation. This is usually in regards to an animal’s being moved, handled or corrected. As the term implies, there is typically some form of aggression toward humans—either biting, scratching or threatening posturing. It is not the same thing as petting aggression (overstimulation), although the two are often confused (Overall, 1997; Hetts, 1999).

One thing we can agree on about the feline hierarchy is that there is little agreement about it! There is a lot of information available about dominance aggression in dogs. Because the social system of dogs is much clearer, and is in fact similar to that of humans, canine status aggression is a long-accepted behavior problem. Cats have long been thought of as antisocial because they are solitary hunters, although they will clearly form groups around resources such as shelter and food, as in feral cat colonies. In some cases, one cat appears to be the leader of the group but may not display aggression in regard to food or territory. The other cats in the group may defer to the “leader cat” (Dodman, 1999). In other social groups of felines, the dominant cat may assert his position through aggression or other threatening behaviors or body language (O’Farrell and Neville, 1994). Territory and social ranking may also affect aggression between cats (Overall, 1997).

Another consideration is the possibility that dominant behavior toward humans is unrelated to a social hierarchy or to how the cat relates to other cats, but is a response to a specific situation or trigger that becomes reinforced over time.

Presentation and Examples From 1995 until 2008, the San Francisco SPCA shelter had a program dedicated to rehabilitating cats with behavior problems, as well as providing resources for the community regarding feline behavior. Cat behavior specialists on staff were trained in cat behavior consulting, as well as temperament testing and behavior modification of shelter cats. I was fortunate through my work in the SF SPCA Cat Behavior Program to evaluate and temperament test thousands of cats. Of these, perhaps just a few dozen


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Simba arrived at the shelter in February of 2002 with a broken jaw. He was a seven-year-old intact male, brought in as a stray. He displayed overstimulation immediately, but was simultaneously very pushy and needy for attention. He was soon healed, neutered and adopted, but was returned to the shelter after attacking his adopter’s leg. The adopter had tried to move Simba away from an outdoor welcome mat that had apparently been marked by other cats or raccoons. While this was a classic example of redirected aggression, after Simba’s return he developed more dominant behaviors.

It took Simba more than 400 days to get adopted again, so we had ample opportunities to get to know him and observe different behaviors. To keep him away from other cats, and also allow him the opportunity for more human interaction, he was frequently housed in the Cat Behavior Office. One day, he dashed out the office door when it was opened, and an animal care attendant

More typical behaviors in the home environment include extreme resistance (possibly accompanied by biting) to being moved off a lap. These cats may also aggress when being picked up and moved off other surfaces, such as furniture or counters. They may also lie in a doorway, blocking the owner’s access to free movement within their home. They will often choose to lunge at and bite the human who walks by. In other situations, these cats will be territorial toward or protective of certain pieces of furniture or bedding, such as a cat condo or fleece bed. They may also be difficult to groom or medicate.

minutes, leaping and chasing, stalking and pouncing, before he started getting a bit ‘lazy’ about the play. He stayed on his rug and I moved the toy slower, until I let him play with it on his own. He scooped it in his paws and chewed at the toy for several minutes, until he seemed done. Shortly after this, (another staff member) entered the room and we talked without paying attention to him for a few minutes. He was very curious about people in the hallway. He jumped up on her lap. Without much petting, he suddenly lunged and bit at her arms several times. When he got no response, he gave up briefly and got down on the floor and did the same at her legs, biting and kicking. At this point he seemed like he was not going to calm down. He again jumped on her lap and went to lunge at her face, which she stopped with a scruff hold. We left the room after this” (author’s notes).Video Stills of Robbie

The first two show Robbie receiving petting during temperament testing.

The third through fifth show him aggressing two seconds afterward and the resulting hiss one second later (still number six).

Within 17 seconds, he was attempting to get on the lap for cuddling without solicitation (seven and eight).

1 2

3 4

5 6

7 8

Simba had a history of aggression.

Beyond Bossy: Feline Status Aggression

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picked him up, returned him to the office, and put him on top of the cat condo that had been placed there for Simba’s use. Simba immediately started swatting, then came down from the cat tree and jumped on the attendant’s leg, biting. The staff member was able to quietly withdraw and leave the room.

Later that day, a volunteer allowed Simba onto his lap (which Simba was soliciting), and when the volunteer picked him up to move him off, Simba turned and attacked. The volunteer yelled, which seem to further antagonize the cat, who started yowling and chuffing. The bites and scratches broke skin, and it took Simba a few hours to calm down. At that point, we had to more strictly control Simba’s environment and interactions with people, while still meeting his need for attention and mental stimulation.

Over the next 15 months, Simba’s behavior did improve significantly. He was still very pushy and insistent on being on laps. He would bite for attention when ignored (such as when staff were doing phone consultations), and was resistant to grooming and restraint. With gentle petting, plenty of exercise and continual careful behavior modification, we were able to get Simba adopted into a very experienced, quiet home where he would be the only pet. He is doing very well with his new adopter, and no significant aggression problems have been reported.

Another common behavior in the status-aggressive cat is resistance to correction. They may outright ignore it, or may show even more agitation afterward, including becoming aggressive. Telling a cat “no” for biting may cause them to pause briefly but aggress again. Such was the case with Buck, a six-year-old neutered male, who was in the shelter for six weeks. Buck was living in the Public Relations Office temporarily, so he could get more exercise and lose some weight before undergoing a dental procedure. Unfortunately, the environment was both very stimulating (with frequent office visitors, including dogs) and one where people were trying to work rather than focus on Buck’s need for attention.

His behavior escalated over the course of a few weeks, as he started climbing up on the office workers desks, quickly becoming overstimulated from petting, and jumping on people’s legs when they left the room. By the time behavior staff was notified of the situation, the problem was quite severe. A typical scenario was that Buck would sit in front of a computer, the worker would tell him “no,” put him down, and he would immediately jump back up again. This would be repeated until finally Buck would bite the human.

When I checked his behavior, he solicited petting and seemed quite needy, but becamed overstimulated almost immediately and gave a firm bite. When I told him “no” in a stern voice, he backed off for a moment and gave me a hard stare with constricted pupils, then launched at my arm, this time biting much harder (author’s notes). Buck was removed from the office and given some time to calm down, and then we instituted a behavior modification plan that included regular attention and exercise, as well as consistent handling. His adopters were given specific information on working with attention seeking behavior and preventing aggressive episodes in the home, and on follow-up, things were going very well.

How Does Aggressive Behavior Develop in Cats? Feline aggression is typically classified into one of three categories: offensive, defensive and predatory. Different sources will list anywhere from four to thirteen sub-types within these broad categories. Predatory behavior is hardwired in cats because they are obligate carnivores. As territorial animals who are both predators and prey, it is not surprising that they would display both defensive and offensive types of biting, scratching and aggressive warnings toward other animals.

Aggression may be related to genetic or biological factors. Some studies show that confidence and sociability with humans is related to how “friendly” the cat’s father was (Turner, 2000). Other research demonstrates that in some animals, a lowered level of serotonin may be associated with increased aggression (Edwards, 1997). Some authors claim a correlation between early separation from the mother or siblings and aggression toward people and lack of inhibition when biting (Horwitz, 1993). Dominance aggression develops in dogs during social maturity (Overall, 2000), and this may be similar in cats.

It is interesting to note that almost all the cats exhibiting this behavior in the shelter (and through consultations) were males, often young adults. There may be some genetic or biological predisposition toward status (or other forms of) aggression that unfolds with maturation or when triggered by environmental factors.

Aggression toward humans is often related to learned habits. The behavior may be reinforced when owners encourage rough play with their hands or play chase games. Owners who do not recognize early signs of overstimulation and overhandle their pets may “train” their cats to bite when irritated. A lack of exercise, play and mental stimulation can lead cats to direct their playful/predatory behavior toward moving body parts such as legs, eyelashes or hands. The response from the human, although often intended to be punitive, may be exciting enough to allow the behavior to continue, especially in a very bored cat.

There are a few other ways owners may inadvertently reinforce aggression in their cats. Given the possibility of a predisposition toward aggression, certain environments may make the problem worse. One of these is a household where there are both many rules for the cat and few opportunities for natural behaviors. These are the households where the most common word spoken to the cat is “no.”

One example is a shelter cat, Swiffer, who was fostered out with his siblings as an underaged kitten. Swiffer was adopted in June 2004, shortly after reaching two months of age. When he was approximately 11 months old, his owners contacted the SF/SPCA Cat Behavior Program for help with a severe aggression problem. His foster parents noted on his return that he “had issues with dominance” and that “he may do best as an only cat” (foster parent notes).

Swiffer was a very active and curious cat who frequently “got into” things—knocking items off shelves, getting into garbage cans and chewing plants. He was getting aggressive with his owners and visitors, sometimes stalking and pouncing, although most

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to overstimulation. He seemed confused and unsure about hands, and his behavior modification plan focused on improving these behaviors. In mid-May, Monty was adopted to an experienced person. He was scared for the first few weeks, then was very comfortable in his new home and started displaying some different behaviors. He became more and more insistent on being on his owner’s lap all the time. He would sit on her chest and nip her chin when she was trying to watch television. When she would move him off her lap so that she could stand up, he would frequently turn and give her a hard bite. He also started lying in hallways when she needed to walk by, swatting at her ankles as she passed. After a month of putting behavior modification techniques to good use, Monty’s adopter stopped by the shelter to let us know that things were going great, and that his behavior had improved significantly.

Status aggression does not appear to be related to how a cat interacts with other felines. It can occur in multi-cat or solitary environments, and cats who seem to defer to other cats may try to boss their humans around. In the shelter and in the home, Monty tended to be picked on by other cats.

Considerations for Consulting (Note: A thorough veterinary exam before a consultation is recommended for any cat displaying aggression, especially if this is a sudden change in behavior.)

Clients whose cats are attacking them are understandably upset, and in some cases very afraid. It is important to take the client’s fear seriously. Not only may they be afraid of their cat, but they may also be considering rehoming or euthanizing their pet due to the behavior problem. Acknowledge their fear and let them know that it is okay to want to feel safe with their pet. Even if the bites or scratches are not severe, there may be serious safety concerns, such as immunocompromised individuals or children in the home.

You may work with people who believe they are being bitten due to the cat’s dislike of them. While it is important to thoroughly explore the client’s relationship with their cat (including everyone in household), explaining the reasons for cat aggression as well

attacks seemed unpredictable. Swiffer also engaged in attention-seeking behavior, including destructive behavior that resulted in negative attention, such as scratching furniture. Punishment and correction escalated his aggressive response.

A home visit revealed that the owners were very concerned about two things: one was their valuables and breakables on shelves and mantle pieces; the other was Swiffer’s safety. Both owners were artists and left paints, glass and other art supplies out in their workspace. Because of this, Swiffer was confined to one large room and a hallway for most of the day when his owners were not home, as well as when they were sleeping. Although he did have a cat tree in his room, the space did not provide enough mental stimulation and exercise to keep up with his energy level. During the consultation, he attacked and bit both visitors as well as his owners a few times. The aggression did not seem to be playfully motivated.

The owners were resistant to making any major changes in the way they had the home set up, such as when we strongly urged them to secure any dangerous items in a childproof cabinet or storage container and secure breakables so that they could allow Swiffer to have full run of the house. Swiffer was clearly frustrated, and while the challenges to his owners may have started out of boredom, they seemed to be taking a more serious direction. A few months later, the owners reported slight improvement in Swiffer’s aggressive tendencies but had not made many environmental changes.

Another way dominant behavior can be reinforced is when owners give in to the cat’s demands. A cat who has learned to get his way by biting—be it the ability to stay on the lap or a favorite piece of furniture, to avoid grooming or to get attention—is more likely to continue the dominant behavior and escalate it over time. As owners become more afraid of their cat, the cat tends to become more aggressive, and a vicious cycle has begun.

Other Circumstances This behavior is not limited to cats who show confidence in a new environment. Monty, a five-year-old male who had been living in a feral colony, was brought into the shelter in March of 2002. He was very scared, refusing to come out of hiding, although he was responsive to gentle petting. After five weeks in the shelter, he started biting and swatting, but showed a fearful response to any correction. He had become a lap cat, but started fixating on hands. He did not show much interest in interactive playtime.

Daily progress reports noted: “4/13—he swatted whenever I tried to pet his head, but was fine with full body pets and kept rolling around so that he could be petted more”; “4/26—he accepted some petting, small meows and nips were frequent. I tried to limit the petting to one or two at a time, then withdrew. At one point he walked up to my hand and rather boldly bit my knuckle hard”; “5/2—Would walk up to my hand and nip if I didn’t pet him”; “5/5—Did walk up and bite my finger when I wasn’t paying attention to him.”

We attributed Monty’s behavior to a lack of socialization and

Monty was conflicted about human attention.

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as factors that may have reinforced the behavior will prove more helpful than focusing on how the cat may perceive the owner. A general lack of bonding will require additional suggestions for positive interactions between the owner and the cat. If the owner is used to having cats of a particular personality type, they may need to get comfortable with some other ways of having a relationship with their cat, such as interactive playtime instead of cuddling.

Unfortunately, the term “status aaggression” or “dominance aggression” tends to bring up a certain image in people’s minds. There is also a serious lack of information available about this behavior. These are important reasons to not casually use this term. A common misconception among the public is that the best way to fix dominant behavior is for the human to somehow become assertive over the animal. However, attempts at physically punishing or intimidating a cat who is displaying status aggression will likely backfire. The biggest risk is that the cat will escalate the aggression, seeing their human’s behavior as more of a challenge than a threat.

Because feline status aggression is rare, be sure to first rule out other types of aggression. The most common overlapping types of aggression are play/predatory aggression, overstimulation/petting aggression, territorial behavior and redirected aggression. (Pain or general “irritability” due to other animals in the environment may also be overlapping factors.) Recommendations for modification of these behavior problems will, in most cases, coincide or help with working on the status aggression.

Be sure to obtain a thorough history of the behavior problem, emphasizing information about body language both before and after the aggression. Explore the owner’s reaction to the aggressive incidents as well as to other misbehaviors and find out what rules or restrictions the owners expect the cat to conform to. Consultants should not ignore another important piece of the puzzle—the cat’s daily routine, including how and when the owner interacts with the cat.

Behavior Modification

A behavior modification plan for cats exhibiting status aggression will focus on prevention as well as giving the cat some other things to do besides bossing their humans around! Clients should avoid physical confrontation with the cat whenever possible. If the cat is on their lap and they need to move, they should stand up slowly, letting the cat fall off their lap, rather than picking the cat up or pushing him off their lap. If the cat is sitting on a piece of furniture that the owner would like to use,

they should encourage the cat to move of his own volition. This could be done by luring the cat with an interactive toy, by rattling a treat can, or by tossing a small stuffed toy mouse. Even better would be to train the cat using either a clicker or voice command to do an incompatible behavior, such as “go to mat.”

Some believe that clicker training and trick training will help the cat learn that they must defer to the owner for rewards (the “nothing in life is free” principle) (Overall, 1997; Johnson-Bennett 2007). The stereotype of cats being less motivated than dogs to please humans, if in fact true, could make training an uncertain fix for status related aggression. Regardless, training is a good way to provide mental stimulation. There are many resources available on clicker training, both in print and on the Internet. Classes on clicker training for cats are becoming more available to the public as well.

Scheduled feeding is helpful for many types of behavior modification, and can be used in combination with training to reinforce the cat seeing the owner as the source of food. In general, it is a good idea to increase environmental enrichment (solo play toys, food puzzles, cat grass, bird feeders to watch, cat condos, etc.) and provide the cat with as much interactive exercise as possible. Not all cats with status aggression are playful, but owners should be encouraged to try several different interactive toys.

If the owner is constantly engaging negatively with the cat over certain behaviors (such as furniture scratching, counter climbing, etc.), these problems need to be addressed separately. The frequency of “no’s” tends to increase the cat’s frustration and perhaps his desire to have control over his environment. The owners may want to “choose their battles” and prioritize what issues they would like to work on first. For example, the cat may be allowed on the computer desk but not on the dinner table. Alternatives for climbing and scratching must be provided. The goal is to prevent or, if necessary, correct a situation where the owners are constantly saying “no” to the cat. It’s also important not to forget rewarding positive behaviors! Treats, praise, play or a special toy can all be used to reinforce good behavior.

If the cat tends to become overstimulated quickly or want to “call the shots” when being petted, the owner should keep petting and handling to a minimum, always leaving the cat wanting more, rather than less. If the cat allows a few pets without any aggressive moves, the owner can reward him with a treat. The owner should not risk seeing “how far” they can get with the cat, i.e., testing the cat’s reaction to more petting or handling of sensitive areas. This will likely lead to a bite and the interaction will end not only on

Overstimulation with hard bites

Demanding to be on a lap, even when clearly agitated

Mixed signals, such as lots of ear movement, cranky vocalization or tail swishing yet still soliciting attention

Very focused on faces

Intense, prolonged staring

Constricted pupils

Upset when moved

Upset with restraint

Aggressive with verbal correction

Attention-seeking behavior that includes hard bites

Challenges owners

A few things to look for when assessing status aggression:

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Feline status aggression is a fascinating subject. As we continue to learn more about the social structure of cats and how humans can fit into this structure, we will undoubtedly have a better understanding of this behavior. In the meantime, we have the tools we need to work with and significantly improve this behavior, as well as to educate the public about reducing and preventing aggression in cats.

Mikel Maria Delgado, CCBC, worked as a full-time Cat Behavior Specialist at the San Francisco SPCA from 2002 to 2008. In addition to behavior consultations and adoption counseling, this job entailed staff and volunteer training, community education, temperament testing and behavior modification of shelter cats. She is now a partner in Feline Minds (www.felineminds.com), a San Francisco Bay Area cat behavior consulting business. Mikel serves on the IAABC Board of Directors as secretary and is a Certified Cat Behavior Consultant. She lives in Berkeley, California, with her two cats, and is currently a psychology major at Cal State University.

ReferencesDodman, Nicholas H. Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine Animal Behavior Course. North Grafton, MA: Tufts University, 1999.

Edwards, Donald H. and Edward A. Kravitz. “Serotonin, social status and aggression.” Current Opinion in Neurobiology, Vol 7 (6), (Dec 1997): 812-819.

a negative note, but also with the cat controlling when the petting session ends. Desensitization and counter-conditioning can be helpful in increasing tolerance for petting, but would probably be safer when aggressive incidents have been reduced.

A cat with a history of aggressing should not be allowed to get close to his owner’s face. If he is climbing up on someone’s chest, he should be gently discouraged, again by luring or by moving slowly in a direction that will make it less desirable or possible for the cat to be in their face. Some cats can be discouraged from approaching faces by blocking them with open arms, if this can be done without physically touching the cat. Owners should also be discouraged from allowing these cats to mark them by rubbing excessively on hands, chins, etc. After one or two rubs, the owners should slowly and gently withdraw if possible (and safe).

A large component in working with aggressive behavior in cats is minimizing or eliminating the human’s response to the bites, including, in most cases, correction. Status-aggressive cats do best with confident cat owners who are not intimidated by their cat’s bossiness. Karen Overall (1999) has noted that “…the response of the challenged cat determined the hierarchical relationship. It is unclear whether the individuals had higher status in the system because they had made the required response, or because they were capable of making other animals respond to them. The latter appears likely…” (p. 72). This could help explain why many cats seem to target members of the household who have a larger reaction to their aggression. Since many of these cats also engage in attention-seeking behavior, it is possible that any type of correction may be reinforcing.

Reducing reaction to aggression is difficult, as most people have an instinctive response to being bitten, which is to pull away and cry out. If the biting is predictable, owners may need to “brace themselves” for a bite and try to control their response. Another option is to wear padded and protective clothing around the house, such as wildlife gloves, leather, a heavy jacket or ski pants (if you can convince your client to do so). Double-sided tape placed on the arms and legs of such clothing, while not changing the cat’s motivation for the aggression, will make it less enticing.

A water spray bottle can be used in extreme cases to stop a cat from attacking. The owner will need to carry the spray bottle around with them, but it is important that they do not punish the cat too early. If the owner is very frightened of the cat, they may tend to punish body language rather than a behavior. Certainly, for some cats, body language is the first sign of aggression, but the owner must be certain that they are interpreting the body language correctly. The cat who is being punished for no reason will undoubtedly become more stressed out and is less likely to form (or re-form) a positive relationship with their owner.

Successful Resolution Success is related both to minimizing the owner’s fear and the severity of the bites and scratches. An experienced cat owner who has previously dealt with aggression in their cats may be more comfortable with a behavior modification plan that relies on their ability to stay calm during an aggressive incident. My experience

has been that cats can notice hesitation and uncertainty in their owners, and will soon learn how to alter human behavior to suit their needs.

In some cases, careful re-homing should be considered. Some cats at the shelter were deemed unsafe for adoption. Gerald, for example, was placed on a farm where he would have his basic needs met but close contact with humans was restricted. Other cats may not fare so well. But if you have resources for your clients, status aggression need not be a death sentence for a cat.

Gerald: a little too interested in faces.

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Hetts, Suzanne. Pet Behavior Protocols. Lakewood, CO: AAHA Press, 1999.

Horwitz, Debra F. “Feline socialization: how environment and early learning influence behavior.” Veterinary Medicine, August 1993, 743-747.

Johnson-Bennett, Pam. Starting from Scratch: How to Correct Behavior Problems in Your Adult Cat. New York, NY: Penguin Books, 2007.

Landsburg, Gary, Wayne Hunthausen and Lowell Ackerman. Handbook of Behaviour Problems of the Dog and Cat. Oxford, UK: Reed Educational and Professional Publishing Ltd., 2000.

O’Farrell, Valerie and Peter Neville. Manual of Feline Behaviour. Gloucestershire, UK: British Small Animal Veterinary Association, 1994.

Overall, Karen L. Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals. St. Louis, MO: Mosby, Inc., 1997.

Overall, Karen L. “Natural animal models of human psychiatric conditions: Assessment of mechanism and validity.” Progress in Neuro-Psychopharmacology & Biological Psychiatry, Vol 24(5), (Jul 2000): 727-776.

Turner, Dennis and Patrick Bateson. The Domestic Cat: the Biology of Its Behaviour. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 2000.

Voith, Victoria L., and Peter L. Borchelt. Readings in Companion Animal Behavior. Trenton, NJ: Veterinary Learning Systems, 1996.

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When there is a • sudden onset of a new behavior or a sudden change in the status of a pre-existing behavior

When the behavior truly appears unpredictable in context, • frequency and/or intensity

Medical evaluations are also necessary if pharmacological intervention is being considered. In some cases, a comprehensive diagnostic evaluation is beyond the owner’s desire or resources; however, such evaluations should still be discussed and offered to the client.

There are limitations to our knowledge and diagnostic capabilities, so while many animals may have “neurological” or neurodevelopmental problems causing their behavior issues, we currently may be unable to diagnose them.

Applicable diagnostic tests will vary with the age, breed, and symptoms of the animal. Generally, most of my cases have at least a complete blood count (CBC), blood chemistry panel and thyroid test (for middle-aged to older cats). Inappropriate elimination cases require a urinalysis and/or fecal exam, as well. If infectious disease are suspected, titers may be needed as well. However, titers are often an unreliable way to diagnose actual infection, particularly for rickettsial diseases and some viral diseases in cats. The specificity and sensitivity of any individual test should be determined before recommending the client spend money on such a test. In some cases, treating a suspected infection (for example, doxycycline for suspected rickettsial infection) is the preferred approach.

Brain imaging is indicated in cats who present with signs suggesting neurological disease, unless a metabolic or toxic cause is suspected. MRI is generally superior to CT scans for assessing soft tissue structures, although high-quality CT machines can also give excellent images. Diagnosis of neoplasia outside the brain and spinal cord is generally done by some form of imaging such as radiography (X-rays) and/or ultrasonography. Some masses can be aspirated or biopsied for cytologic examination.

The quality of any test or procedure is only as good as the lab and personnel that run it and the proficiency of the person that evaluates the results. There is much misinformation in the public sector about the usefulness and validity of certain diagnostic tests. Tests should be evaluated based on concrete data rather than just personal or anecdotal experience or opinions.

It is important for professionals and cat owners to understand that treatment of an underlying medical issue, even if it was the inciting cause for an aberrant behavior, may not resolve the behavioral issue. Learning plays a role in every behavioral issue, and long-standing behavior patterns in particular may persist even when the inciting cause is removed. Additionally, animals with neurodevelopmental disorders and early alteration in cortisol-stress responsiveness will always show some level of persisting

Cases are often presented to us where we are at a loss in trying to decide whether an animal has a behavioral problem or a

medical problem. This approach is much like trying to decide whether a behavior problem is caused by nature or nurture, or originates with the cat or the owner. All of these are pointless arguments. An individual’s genetics, behavior and physiology are so intimately intertwined that they are inseparable as discreet components. The first “symptom” of any disease process usually is a change in the animal’s behavior. Additionally, alterations in an animal’s behavior, especially behaviors we would consider to be indications of poor adaptation skills (such as compulsive disorders) or that are associated with stress, produce changes in the animal’s physiology, some of which may become permanent. Humans and animals undergo changes in hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, immune competency, and gene transcription (activation and translation of genetic material) in response to environmental influences that affect their behavior.

A veterinary examination should be part of every program when an animal presents to any professional with a behavior problem. This evaluation serves to identify medical issues that may contribute to the behavioral presentation, as well as to identify changes in the animal’s health status as a result of the behavioral problem.

When an owner presents their animal to a veterinarian for a medical evaluation of a behavior problem, the worst thing the veterinarian can do is dismiss the owner’s concerns. Similarly, non-veterinary behavior consultants do their clients a disservice if they tell an owner, or imply to the owner, that the cat does not need a veterinary evaluation because the animal’s problem is “just behavioral.” If for no other reason, these evaluations should be done so the owner has the peace of mind that they have addressed that step.

Inappropriate or problematic behaviors are manifestations of underlying problems, whether those problems are primarily psychological or physiological. Just as itching is not a disease, aggression is not a behavior problem per se. Itching is a symptom of an underlying pruritic (itchy) condition, just as aggression is a symptom of an underlying issue (such as fear, territoriality, conflict). Behavior problems should be addressed in a comprehensive way by evaluating the animal’s environment, diet, exercise routine, social relationships, and physiological (medical) status.

Although disease processes are not the single direct cause of most behavior problems, diseases or chronic illnesses will certainly affect the expression of behavior (usually in a negative way). Medical triggers should be highly suspected:

In very young animals•

In senior animals showing the onset of a new behavior•

Medical Evaluation of the Feline Behavior Patientby Lore I. Haug, DVM, MS, DACVB

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Medical Evaluation of the Feline Behavior Patient

housesoiling in the geriatric cat.

Aggression Disorders Aggression is affected by a variety of physiological problems, including disease and drug administration. The trigger for the aggression can indicate the areas to concentrate a medical investigation. For example, a cat who is aggressive when being handled around his head and neck may need careful otoscopic (ears) examination, oral examination and evaluation for cervical spinal pain. In young animals with aggression, other medical causes to consider include congenital neurologic disease (such as hydrocephalus), portosystemic shunt, storage diseases (although rare), infectious diseases (viral such as FeLV, FIV, FIP; protozoal such as Toxoplasmosis, Neospora; rickettsial such as Bartonella) and toxins. Of these, the most commonly identified are congenital neurologic disease, particularly hydrocephalus, and infectious diseases (FIP, FeLV or FIV).

Middle-aged to older animals should be evaluated for arthritis, endocrine disease (hyperthyroidism, adrenal disease, diabetes), neoplasia, primary neurological disease (neoplasia, granulomatous meningoencephalitis, feline ischemic encephalopathy, parasitic brain migration, seizures [uncommon as a cause of aggression]), infectious diseases (viral, protozoal, rickettsial, fungal), ocular disorders (cataracts, uveitis), and cognitive dysfunction. Evaluation procedures are described earlier in this article.

Acute or chronic pain often plays a role in aggression.

Feline hyperesthesia syndrome (FHS) is frequently associated with aggression (as well as other symptoms, including excessive grooming, twitching of the skin over the back, tail chasing, episodes of spontaneous growling and running through the house). FHS has been associated with a variety of disorders, and in many cases the cause is unknown. However, the cat should be carefully evaluated for neurological and dermatological disorders, anal sac disease, and pain syndromes.

Drugs that have commonly been implicated in inducing or exacerbating aggression include glucocorticoids (steroids), theophylline, benzodiazepines, and acepromazine.

Anxiety Disorders and Phobias In very young animals, serious anxiety disorders, fears and phobias are likely to be related to neurodevelopmental issues, prenatal and postnatal stress, socialization deficits, and learning events. However, congenital disorders (hydrocephalus, portosystemic shunts) and infectious disease (feline viral, rickettsial, protozoal diseases) can influence the animal’s behavior and development (by sensitizing the cortisol-stress [HPA] axis to hyper-respond to stress and threat signals).

In adult animals, infectious diseases, endocrine disease, chronic pain (such as spinal pain, intestinal cramping) and neurological disorders can mimic or worsen anxiety states. Some episodes of spontaneous panic may represent limbic system (temporal lobe) seizures. Hyperadrenocorticism, although uncommon in cats, can readily mimic or worsen an anxiety

abnormality, although behavior modification and appropriate pharmacological intervention can help normalize the animal on a neurochemical level.

Medical differentials for some of the common categories of behavior problems in cats are outlined below. These are the medical conditions that should be investigated and ruled out when dealing with these behavior issues.

Inappropriate EliminationIn cats, by far the most common medical factor contributing to inappropriate urination is sterile cystitis (that is, idiopathic, or interstitial, cystitis) and other lower urinary tract diseases. In young cats, pain (and abrupt litter changes) due to declawing surgery can trigger housesoiling. Primary urinary tract disease, including kidney or bladder stones or kidney infections, are common causes of inappropriate urination.

Disorders of incontinence must be differentiated from true inappropriate elimination, because the former is always a medical issue. Any drug or medical issue that triggers increased drinking and/or urination (including diabetes, thyroid disease, kidney disease/failure) may also initiate urination outside the box.

Urine spraying is not generally associated with a medical condition (for example, cystitis will not make a cat urine spray). However, medical disorders may affect a cat’s relationship with other cats in the home and indirectly trigger urine spraying.

For fecal housesoiling in cats, the cat should be evaluated for food intolerance/allergy, inflammatory bowel disease, irritable bowel syndrome, constipation/megacolon, parasitism, neoplasia (such as gastrointestinal lymphosarcoma), metabolic disease (kidney, liver, pancreas), endocrine disorders (hyperthyroidism), pancreatic insufficiency, and other malabsorption syndromes. Medical evaluation is particularly crucial if the cat’s feces ever appear abnormal in texture, color, or consistency. If the cat is dropping feces as he moves or stands (true fecal incontinence), rather than posturing somewhere outside the box, the problem is medical in origin.

Geriatric-onset housesoiling in cats is almost always associated with an identifiable disease process.

Older cats may begin housesoiling due to arthritic conditions that make accessing the box difficult. This may be because the sides of the box are too high or because the box is located in an area requiring physical exertion for the cat to get there (such as jumping over a dog gate). Other conditions such as obesity may also make box access difficult, particularly if the box is small and/or covered. Similarly, sensory decline, especially visual, may make box access difficult if the box is located in a cramped and/or poorly lit area. The cat’s failing senses may make the cat more sensitive to potential environmental danger and shift the cat’s box preference to a more private or more open location.

Viral (such as FIV) or other infectious diseases may cause marked or low grade encephalitis which can impact the cat’s cognitive function. Additionally, cats do suffer from cognitive dysfunction syndrome, similar to dogs, and this may trigger



Hyperactivity ProblemsHyperactivity problems are typically related to management (lack of enrichment and exercise) and training (inappropriate and/or inconsistent punishment) issues. However, there are a few disease processes that can contribute to or trigger hyperactive behavior.

Hyperthyroidism and drug administration are not uncommon causes. Hyperkinesis is a notable, although rare, cause of hyperactivity and other behavioral manifestations in dogs. I have seen some cats who showed behaviors that were perhaps suggestive of a feline version of hyperactivity/hyperkinesis. However, this concept has not been studied in cats.

Cognitive dysfunction and general brain aging are often associated with nocturnal restlessness. Food allergies and food intolerances have been associated with hyperactive behavior as well. Central neurological diseases, including seizures, portosystemic shunts and toxins (lead) may also be causes.

Excessive Vocalization Vocalization is most often seen in geriatric cats and typically occurs at night. A common cause of vocalization in older cats is hyperthyroidism, and this should be part of the cat’s routine annual screening. Cognitive dysfunction is also a common cause of nocturnal vocalization and alterations in sleep cycles. (Owners should remember that by nature cats are crepuscular to nocturnal and it is part of their natural circadian cycle to be active in the early morning hours.) Other causes of vocalization include pain, sensory decline (triggering contact calling) and, potentially, FIV or other neurological diseases.

In summary, consultants should encourage clients to work closely with their cat’s veterinarian during any behavior modification program. Similarly, veterinarians should not dismiss a client’s concerns about potential physiological contributions to their pet’s behavior.

Lore I. Haug, DVM, MS, DACVB, CPDT, CABC, graduated from Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine in 1993 and completed a master’s degree and behavior residency in 2003. She was board-certified by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists in 2003 and headed the Animal Behavior Service at Texas A&M CVM until 2007. She currently has a private referral practice in Sugar Land, Texas.

disorder.

In cases of nocturnal anxiety/restlessness (including nocturnal vocalization in cats), cognitive dysfunction should be considered, along with deficits in sensory perception (smell, hearing and/or vision). Hyperthyroidism in cats is a common cause of nocturnal activity and vocalization.

Other intracranial neurological disorders will affect behavioral adaptability. Additionally, animals with osteoarthritis often experience more pain at night and have difficulty finding a comfortable place to rest. Seizure disorders and sleep disorders may also cause restlessness, vocalization and, less commonly, aggressive outbursts.

Repetitive Behaviors and Excessive Grooming Repetitive behaviors include stereotypies and compulsive disorders manifesting as excessive licking (of self and/or objects), hair pulling/grooming, tail chasing, self-mutilation, wool sucking, and pica, among others.

The great majority (over 75 percent, Waisglass, et al., 2006) of cats with excessive grooming have an underlying dermatological issue causing or contributing to the problem. A large percentage of these cats have food allergy, flea allergy, and/or atopy, although parasites such as Demodex mites have also been identified.

In cats, hair pulling is sometimes associated with feline hyperesthesia syndrome (other symptoms include tail chasing, vocalization, bouts of frantic running, and aggression).

There is a medical cause for any repetitive behavior that responds to steroid administration. For owners who are reluctant to delve into extensive diagnostics, a steroid trial may be warranted to suggest whether the problem is medical. If the cat responds to steroids, then a more exhaustive work-up should be done.

Cats with tail chasing/mutilation should be screened for spinal cord disease (IVDD, cauda equina, neoplasia, neuropathies), central neurological disease (hydrocephalus, infectious, neoplasia, encephalitides, storage diseases), anal sac disease, and urogenital tract problems.

Seizures are a potential underlying cause for any form of repetitive behavior, particularly tail chasing, shadow chasing, episodic excessive licking, and fly snapping. Neuropathic pain or paraesthesias are probably linked to a significant number of tail chasing and self-mutilation cases; however, diagnosing these often is problematic. In many cases sequential drug trials with steroids, pain medications (NSAIDs, opioids), and anticonvulsants are necessary to diagnose some of these disorders.

Pica in cats has rarely been associated with iron or zinc deficiency, pancreatic disease, malnourishment/malnutrition, and neurologic diseases (Landsberg, et al., 2003). However, most cases of pica are not due to these issues. There is no definitive single cause for pica.

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Glossary and AbbreviationsCBC: complete blood count

CT scan: computer tomography scan

FeLV: feline leukemia virus

FIP: feline infectious peritonitis

FIV: feline immunodeficiency virus

HPA axis: hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis; this is the fight-flight system—the part of the body that prepares the animal for stress and helps cope with stress.

MRI: magnetic resonance imaging

NSAID: non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug

IVDD: intervertebral disc disease

PET scan: positron emission tomography scan

ReferencesLandsberg, G., W. Hunthausen, and L. Ackerman, L. Handbook of Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat, 2nd ed. Philadelphia: Elsevier, 2003.

Waisglass, S.E., G.M Landsberg, J.A.Yager, and J.A. Hall. “Underlying medical conditions in cats with presumptive psychogenic alopecia.” Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association, no. 228 (2006): 1705-1709.

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in a lint roller! View this as a job interview.

Be respectful of the veterinarian’s time. Explain your services, your experience, offer references, and efficiently answer all questions. Some veterinarians will welcome your services with relief because they’ll recognize the value of having a behavior expert as a part of their extended practice. Some veterinarians will politely (or not so politely) say thanks but no thanks. Many veterinarians will be interested but unsure. For them, you may want to offer one or more complimentary consultations. The time investment you make will pay off when a long-term professional relationship is established.

Some veterinarians may have concerns about whether you are someone who crosses over into inappropriate territory and attempts to diagnose medical conditions or bypass veterinary medicine altogether. Be familiar with the IAABC Code of Ethics so you can explain the high standard to which you are held as a member of the IAABC. Invite the veterinarian to learn more about the IAABC.

Have your brochures and business cards with you so you can leave them with the veterinarian, if requested. Some clinics prefer to display pet service brochures in their waiting rooms, while others prefer to hand out information as needed. Keep track of the methods each clinic uses so you’ll know approximately how many brochures you’ll need to print in the future. Some clinics only want business cards and some may prefer to simply keep your name in their Rolodex.

Follow up your introductory meeting with a thank-you letter and an offer of availability for any additional questions that may come up.

Consultation Follow-Up Your professional relationship with veterinarians doesn’t end with the referral. Be diligent about providing written follow-up reports. This is important for three reasons. First, it provides the veterinarian with valuable information regarding the quality of your services. Second, it allows the veterinarian to monitor the animal’s progress during future clinic visits. And finally, it becomes a written record should the client be non-compliant. This can be very important if one of your non-compliant clients reports back to the veterinarian that your methods didn’t work.

All client follow-up reports should be in writing. Even if a veterinarian wants you to call after a consultation, it’s wise to follow that with a written report. A written report protects you, it protects the veterinarian, and ultimately, it protects the pet.

The report should be efficient and consistent. You can write it

Introducing Yourself to Local Veterinarians Your relationships with local veterinarians are crucial to establishing and maintaining your reputation and acquiring client referrals. Ideally, the relationship will benefit everyone—veterinarian, behavior consultant, and client. Although you can’t control how willingly a veterinarian may embrace the idea of using your services, there are numerous things you can do to introduce yourself as a professional. The more professional and experienced you are, the more likely a veterinarian will recognize the value of your service.

Don’t underestimate every aspect of how you present yourself and your business. Everything matters—from the look of your brochures to the way you dress. If you don’t take your appearance and marketing materials seriously, neither will veterinarians and prospective clients.

The First Meeting Don’t just stop into a veterinary clinic unannounced and ask to leave brochures there. That’s for pet sitters and people looking to adopt out unwanted puppies or kittens. You’re offering a very specialized service and the veterinarian needs to meet you and gain a full understanding of what you do and why you’re qualified to do it. The veterinarian’s relationships with his or her clients are important, and you can’t expect that to be jeopardized by a referral based solely on a stack of business cards or brochures left on the waiting room table.

The veterinarian’s time is limited. Your requested meeting should be short and scheduled at a time that is most convenient to the veterinarian. You can request this appointment by either calling to ask for a brief meeting with the vet, or you can write an introductory letter. If you chose to write a letter, keep in mind that this will be your first professional impression. Use your business letterhead and include a brief description of your business, professional affiliations, and a brochure (if you have one).

Don’t write a two-page letter that explains everything you’ve ever done. The introductory letter should be just that—an introduction. Put enough information in the letter to explain that you are an experienced professional and why your services are valuable, but save the very detailed information for your face-to-face meeting where you can answer specific questions the veterinarian may have. If you have brochures, information sheets, or other marketing materials, put them together in a professional-looking folder with the introductory letter on top.

When you meet the veterinarian, dress as a professional. If you want to be viewed as a professional, then look like one. Invest

Establishing Professional Relationships with Veterinariansby Pam Johnson-Bennett, CABC


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involved in properly evaluating and handling a behavior problem, the more likely it is that you’ll raise their awareness of the value of certified behavior experts. The seminar should also cover the issue of when it’s time to contact a behavior expert.

In-clinic seminars give you valuable face-to-face time with the staff, and that’s how you develop relationships and build trust. The staff members are more likely to refer you after they’ve met with you personally and are confident you’ll be a valuable asset for their clinic. Compare that with the “behavior expert” who merely asks the receptionist if he or she can leave brochures in the waiting room.

Consider offering new pet classes at the veterinary clinic. New puppy classes are always needed. If you work with cats and you want to offer an extremely beneficial service, consider teaching a kitty kindergarten class at the veterinary clinic. New parrot or horse classes would be very valuable and in many cases, and you could create a unique service if there aren’t any such classes currently in your area.

Maintain Professionalism with the Veterinarian’s Clients One of the quickest ways to damage your professional reputation is to speak poorly about a veterinarian during a consultation. A client has no obligation to uphold confidentiality, and anything you say might get back to that doctor, a member of the staff, or other veterinarians. If a client asks for your opinion regarding a particular veterinarian, remain professional. Don’t fall prey to gossip or anything that will cause you to lose credibility with the doctors in your area. Listen to your clients’ concerns and offer suggestions to help them better communicate with the veterinarian. If they’re unhappy with the veterinarian, tactfully suggest that they have the option of getting a second opinion.

A client’s relationship with the veterinarian is very complex. It isn’t just based on the quality of care the animal receives. Clients choose a particular veterinarian for a variety of reasons—convenience, personality, gender, referrals from others, and so on. Keep in mind that there are two sides to every story.

Show Appreciation Even though veterinarians will be receiving your follow-up reports, everyone in the clinic will appreciate knowing that their referrals are acknowledged with gratitude. Remember every clinic at the holidays with something special. Whether you choose cookies, candy, or other gifts, the thought will go a long way in showing you appreciate the trust they’ve placed in you.

If you want to go beyond the typical cookie or candy-type gifts, search on the Internet for companies that supply corporate gifts. For the veterinarians who provide me with most of my referrals, I arrange for the clinics to have lunch delivered. So as not to get lost in the Christmas gift-giving chaos, I often schedule the lunch deliveries for Valentine’s Day or simply an ordinary weekday.

Remembering birthdays and other special personal days will

on your letterhead in letter form, or you can create a template for follow-up forms. Make the form easy to read with well-defined sections for your evaluation, behavior modification plan, and follow-up instructions. In your follow-up, remember to thank the veterinarian for the referral and invite him or her to call you with any comments or questions. Follow-up reports should be concise. Don’t write a book. Veterinarians want to be informed but they don’t have the time to read six single-spaced pages.

If you’ll be consulting with the client on several occasions, don’t send a follow-up for every visit. Set up a schedule for follow-up reports that cover multiple visits, or as requested by the veterinarian. On your final visit to the client, send a final report to the veterinarian. Some veterinarians may request customized follow-up procedures, so keep a written record of individual preferences. If a veterinarian prefers to only receive phone follow-ups, or if he or she doesn’t want any follow-ups (gasp!), create a written follow-up for your own files that details what you discussed with the veterinarian during the phone call.

This may seem obvious, but before you send off your written follow-up report, proofread it carefully and then make a copy for your own files.

Professional Courtesies Veterinarians often call me to reaffirm basic behavior advice they plan on giving their clients or to discuss whether a case needs to be referred to a behavior consultant. I have also consulted with veterinarians regarding their own cats. I offer these services at no charge. Extend a professional courtesy to veterinarians as an effective way to demonstrate your expertise.

Offer Additional Services This is where you can really work with the veterinary clinic in a way that benefits everyone. Start by creating client handouts on basic training or certain common behavior problems. These should be either one-page sheets with training or behavior tips (usually done in bullet points) or, if your budget allows, create brochures on single-topic issues. Include new pet topics as well. Many veterinarians have new puppy/kitten packs that they hand out to clients that include pet food samples, information sheets on vaccinations, and some marketing material. Your handouts, behavior tip brochures, and/or general business brochures could be included in there. If new pet packs aren’t available for a particular species, this is a great opportunity for you to create information to be handed out.

Offer to teach seminars at the veterinary clinic. You can do basic training seminars as well as specific topic seminars based on what the veterinarian feels would be most appreciated by his or her clients. In addition to seminars for clients, the veterinarian may welcome a seminar for the veterinary staff on basic behavior problems. We don’t want technicians inappropriately dispensing behavior advice, but the more accurate they are when recommending basic techniques, the better. My experience has been that the more you inform the veterinary staff about all that’s

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Establishing Professional Relationships with Veterinarians

also be appreciated. You don’t have to break your budget to show appreciation. If a simple card is all you can afford, it will still go a long way to show your gratitude and thoughtfulness.

Stay Professional and Avoid Getting Gimmicky I saved this section for last because it will apply to all of the above. You want your business to stand out and you’ve spent time and money to create an attractive web site, beautiful letterhead, and attractive brochures. You’ve also probably spent time trying to find the ideal gifts to give veterinarians. There’s a line that you shouldn’t cross though, and that’s the one that leads toward becoming gimmicky.

Watch out that your web site and marketing materials don’t become cutesy. Your marketing material is read by the average pet owner but also by members of allied professions. Gifts that you send can be creative, but don’t get carried away so that it looks as if you’re more of a salesperson than a professional. You want to be remembered for your excellent animal behavior skills and not because you can bake cookies in the shape of dog biscuits.

Pam Johnson-Bennett is a certified cat behavior consultant and the founder and chair of the IAABC cat division. She is the author of seven books. Pam is the cat behavior expert at Yahoo and the spokesperson for Friskies. She runs Cat Behavior Associates, which is a private veterinarian referral behavior service in Nashville, Tennessee.

Recommended ReadingCovey, Stephen R. The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People. New York: Free Press, 2004.

This classic book is a guide to personal change and growth. Its lessons will carry over into your professional relationships.

Maxell, John, and Jim Dornan. Becoming a Person of Influence. Nashville, Tenn.: Thomas Nelson, 2006.

A valuable resource for improving the ways you interact with others.

Miller, John. Flipping the Switch. New York: Putnam, 2005.

This book discusses personal accountability for overcoming roadblocks and creating opportunities for you, both professionally and personally.

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Being Prepared for Disasterby Susan Bulanda, MA, CABC

accounts for the needs of a juvenile pet may change as the animal ages.

The first thing to consider is which part of the house is safest for the types of disasters that are common in your area. For example, if you live near water or in a flood zone, the target site might be the attic, the second floor of a house or, in some cases, the top floor of a barn or garage. If wind without the risk of flooding is more likely, the safe place might be the basement or the most interior room of the house.

Prepare a human and pet disaster emergency kit and keep it in an easy-to-access place or in the safety zone Pack the items of the kit inside large, waterproof plastic bags and put them into a sealed, plastic box. This will provide double protection for the kit and will help keep it fresh. If the kit is kept in a central location, move it to the designated safe area at the first sign of a problem.

The Disaster Kit should include but is not limited to:

1. Two week’s supply of food and water. Water can be stored a number of ways. Emergency water can be purchased in special containers from most military supply stores or outdoor stores. You can buy five-gallon water containers to use for such necessities as flushing the toilet and washing. You can also store water in empty, rinsed, two-liter soda bottles if a single drop of bleach is added to each. It is not a bad idea to have more water than you anticipate. This will ensure that you have a ready supply if clean cannot be resupplied immediately.

2. A medical first aid kit. If any family member needs medications, it is advisable to keep two months of daily/monthly medications in your kit, but remember to check them once a month for expiration. The kit should also include but not be limited to:

Roll bandages; these are handy to use to dress wounds or to • make a temporary muzzle for a dog

Gauze pads•

Vet wrap to hold gauze pads and roll bandages in place•

Antibiotic first aid cream to put on minor wounds•

Alcohol to wash scratches•

Cotton balls for cleaning •

Small scissors•

Tweezers•

Face cloth•

3. Health contacts and records. All family members should have a list of health issues. For pets, include copies of any veterinary documents, such as tests and inoculations. Put these documents in a waterproof plastic bag with the first aid kit. Be sure to list the names and phone numbers of family doctors

The events of September 11, 2001, the way we think of disasters. Previously, most people thought they were limited to natural

disasters, which only affected certain areas of the country. Now we realize disaster can strike anywhere at any time. As behavior consultants, we can play a vital role in helping our communities and clients be prepared for a disaster, either natural or human-made. We also must realize that as behavior consultants, we may be called upon to help handle pets who are abandoned, injured or need to be transported during and after a disaster. To better serve your community and clients, this article addresses two aspects of being prepared for a pending disaster.

Hurricane Katrina made people aware of the impact of a major storm. One of the sad consequences was the many animals who were left behind, as well as the owners who refused to leave their pets at the risk of their own lives.

However, we did learn some important lessons from this disaster. One is to have what is known in search and rescue as a “pre-plan.” Everyone should have two pre-plans: One plan if you decide to ride out the storm, and the second to evacuate. Often a person may decide to ride out the storm and then, due to weather changes, realize they must evacuate.

Many agencies have pre-plans to help eliminate the chaos that comes with a natural or human-made disasters. Each town or city, no matter how small, should have a pre-plan.

Just like cities, each person should have a pre-plan for their family and pets. Many times, people feel that it will never happen to them. But this attitude may cost people their lives. Most people do not realize that the biggest danger in a disaster situation is panic. By having a pre-plan, this can be avoided. A good pre-plan will help to reduce panic and will provide all equipment and supplies needed to survive.

When deciding on the best pre-plan, a consultant should keep in mind the rule of threes: Animals can live without air for three minutes, without shelter for three hours, without water for three days and without food for three weeks. The rule of threes will help prioritize your pre-plan needs.

Pre-Plan One: Riding Out the Disaster All pets should have permanent identification on them. A pet can be microchipped, and birds can have a band on their leg. Remind clients that it is important that whatever agency keeps the identification records for their pets has the most current information.

Each family member should memorize the pre-plan and the entire family should act it out periodically. This will test the plan and reveal any aspect that does not work as intended. Remember, as the years go by the needs of the family will change. A plan that


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drill.

As part of your on-going preparedness, be sure to keep all perishables fresh by rotating them regularly. This also applies to stored gas, which must be rotated every month or treated with a gas stabilizer. Run generators periodically to be sure they will operate when needed. Keep a supply of fresh batteries for flashlights and lanterns. You can purchase survival candles at military or outdoor supply stores.

Be sure to spend some time in the safe area with your pets so they feel comfortable there. Consider camping out in the safe area as part of a drill. Make it fun and the pet will enjoy going there. Do this every few months.

With the proper preparation, riding out the storm can be safe. However, always be aware of the condition of the storm and be ready to evacuate if advised. Do not try to ride out the storm if there is risk of injury to both people and pets. Be sure to have an emergency evacuation pre-plan.

Pre-Plan Two: Evacuate! The most important part of this pre-plan is to decide when you will evacuate. Some people feel better leaving at the first storm watch or warning. It is always better to err on the side of safety then regret it later. Whatever the family decides, they should not wait to see if the situation will improve!

Keep in mind that it is much more difficult to travel with pets and find a place that will allow them to stay. Pet-friendly hotels will fill up first. The safest and perhaps the easiest thing to do is to implement the pre-plan when the first storm watch is issued, before the official evacuation orders are given.

The evacuation pre-plan should include the following steps.

1. A supply of gas should be ready for a generator as part of pre-plan one, and rotated monthly or treated with a gas stabilizer. People tend to wait until the last minute to get gas. This creates shortages and long lines. Having enough gas handy saves time and guarantees that it will be available when you need to drive away. If the power goes out, you will not be able to pump gas at the gas station.

2. Collect and store valuables in waterproof plastic bags, and put them in plastic containers with secure lids. You will leave these items behind. You can keep them in a safe or hide them in your house in the most secure area. Be sure that each bag and box has contact information in it.

If possible, keep all identity items, such as credit card numbers, receipts, bills, etc., in a secure locked place in your home. This will help keep them safe and protect against identity theft. If the area is prone to frequent storms, it might be wise to store these items in a safe deposit box in a bank.

Too many times, people waste time and space in their vehicles trying to gather and save these things. You should only take items that you need for survival and safety. Nothing else!

3. Valuable documents such as birth certificates and insurance policy information (account number and phone numbers) should

and veterinarians. If there are emergency clinics for people and animals in the area, include the name, address, directions and phone numbers for these.

4. A recent photo of each family member. Include photos of pets and other identifying marks/numbers. Attach these to the medical records, so it’s clear which record goes with each person and pet.

5. Human and pet bedding and towels. You’ll want something that you know is clean and dry. Include at least four bath towels for each person and pet. These are used to wrap the pet, if needed, as well as to dry him. The towels also provide extra cushioning to lie or sit on for everyone. In some cases, they can provide extra warmth.

6. A confinement system (such as a crate or cage) for the pet. Some animals can become very panicky at the noise of a severe storm, even if they are in “their” house. Putting them in a crate or cage will help keep them safe and prevent the pet from getting loose and possibly running out of the house. If the pet is taken out to eat or relieve himself, he should always be on a leash or line, no matter how well trained he may be.

7. Extra collars, harnesses and leashes for pets.

8. Toys and games. Plan to have some toys, games, etc., for the humans, and some chew toys such as a Kong for a dog and play toys for cats.

9. A list of emergency contact people who do not live in your area.

10. Clean-up supplies. Often in a disaster, the area outside or the part of the house with bathroom facilities is not usable. Therefore, have enough paper towels, odor neutralizer (best kept in a spray bottle for easy use), and zip-type plastic bags to clean and store any accidents the pet may have. Think of a way for the humans in the family to handle toilet issues.

In a multiple-person household, make each person responsible for a particular pet or a specific job. Post the assignments as part of the pre-plan. If all family members are not at home when the first warning is issued, decide at what point everyone should go to the safe area.

Secure any items outside of the home that could cause damage. You can put these items in the house, a garage or a shed. A lawn chair, for example, could be blown against a house and break a window. If you cannot put things away, tie them to a tree or even together to keep them from blowing away. Be sure to put these items in a place that will not block your ability to evacuate, if necessary.

It is important to let someone outside your area know that you are riding out the storm. You should establish:

A contact schedule so that they know you are okay. You • must consider how you will make contact if phone lines, cell towers or other means of communication are not available.

A plan in case you lose contact.•

Emergency numbers to call, if necessary. •

And the most important: Practice your plan. Hold a disaster

Being Prepared for Disaster

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Susan Bulanda, MA, CABC, is vice president and Dog Division Chair of the IAABC. She is an author, speaker, search and rescue incident commander, and adjunct Professor at Kutztown University. (www.sbulanda.com)

be stored in a locked box designed for this purpose. This box must be kept in a place where you can take it quickly. Include phone numbers, copies of veterinarian records, identification photos, and other identifying information for your family and pet. Load the box in a spot in the vehicle where it cannot be accidentally lost or dropped.

4. Secure any items outside that can cause damage or prevent evacuation.

5. Be sure to keep pets in a crate or cage for smaller animals and a canine seat belt for larger dogs, so that they cannot escape and can be kept safe (in a crate/cage) at the destination. If you have to stop along the route, be sure to keep all pets on a leash and never open a vehicle door with a loose pet inside.

6. You’ll need a destination. Make a list of friends, relatives, and pet-friendly hotels located out of the danger area, with directions and phone numbers. If you plan to go to a hotel, make reservations when you get the first storm watch or warning. Don’t worry if you do not need to go to the hotel. It’s better to have to cancel a reservation and even pay one night fee than be left with no place to go.

7. Have maps in the vehicle so that detours can be navigated.

8. Pick one or two people to keep in touch with as you evacuate. Give them updates as you travel and when you arrive at your destination.

9. Store about a month’s worth of food, medications and water in a safe, secure place in your home. Often, when you return there will be a shortage of supplies and you may need these items.

10. Have a disaster evacuation kit. The kit should include but not be limited to:

Enough water (about one two-liter bottle per 35-pound pet, • per day) for a few days of traveling, and food to last at least a month. For humans, take enough bottled water for the trip to the destination.

A month’s supply of medications for everyone who needs • them, including pets.

Extra leashes, harnesses, and collars for pets.•

For the children, books, games and other types of entertainment • that do not rely on a power supply.

Toys to entertain the pets. •

A medical first aid kit, as listed in Pre-Plan One.•

Paper towels, odor neutralizer (best stored in a spray bottle • for easy use) and zip-type plastic bags. These will be used to clean any accidents the pet may have while traveling or at the destination, of if the children get sick.

No one ever wants to go through a natural disaster, but being prepared will help your clients have a well-thought-out plan should the unthinkable occur. It will also give them—and you—peace of mind.

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how we study animal emotions using scientific methods, for the ultimate betterment of all species.

Bekoff defines cognitive ethology in terms he and others such as Donald R. Griffin (the professor of zoology and animal behavior who coined the phrase “echolocation” in 1938) have spent an entire career understanding and even coming to define. He offers a nice review of the work of Nobel Prize winners such as ethologists Niko Tinbergen, Konrad Lorenz and Karl Ritter von Frisch as they pertain to the study of animal emotions. And he presents a comparison of work studying animal behavior in the field with work studying animals in a laboratory setting. He suggests that identifying emotions in animals is different from understanding the social behavior of animals, and that researching the two issues as they apply to one another will give us a better understanding of each individual behavior we are exploring.

Bekoff’s years studying wild and domestic canids lends itself to a discussion of social behaviors in many other animals and how emotions such as love, joy, grief, and embarrassment could play a part in complex social behaviors. He weaves into his discussion stories of animals described in emotional terms, as offered by fellow researchers in animal behavior science. He does not leave out what Western science explanations he can offer for these behaviors, but at the same time he allows each story to be told in what might be called an anthropomorphic fashion. He also says, “It takes training, experience, and research to correctly interpret the complex interactions and behaviors involved in expression. . . . (p. 45). So, for example, he talks of wild justice, empathy, fair play, and even morality as “broadly adaptive strategies that have evolved in many species” (p. 87). He offers descriptions of animal emotions that see them as wide-ranging biological necessities for social living.

Bekoff does not ignore the skepticism and even alarm he raises within the scientific community when bringing up these topics. He reaches back into much older works for definitions and discussions of anthropomorphism that suggest it can inhibit behavioral research by skewing the results according to how the researcher observes and experiences the world. He also addresses the idea that taking the viewpoint that animals are unfeeling may be self-serving for scientists.

Beckoff believes that acknowledging the possibility of emotion or feelings in animals is the most secure and ethical safeguard when conducting detailed research of animal minds and behavior. This, he says, is the “only guard against the inappropriate use of anthropomorphism” (p. 128). He turns the use of anthropomorphism around for us to evaluate what purpose our belief system serves for us at the time we are conducting or planning research. In other words, is our current belief about whether animals experience emotion serving a greater good

Historically, discussing emotions has been a hot potato in the field of animal behavior. As animal behavior consultants,

we are quite familiar with the vernacular of emotions discussed within the framework of a case we may be working on. But most, if not all of us, have studied or received training in the Western scientific approach to observing animals and developing a plan for behavior modification. One aspect of that approach is that suggesting animals have emotions is anthropomorphic. And anthropomorphism had been frowned upon.

Marc Bekoff’s The Emotional Life of Animals admits to the discussion an exploration of animal emotions using the research tools and methods we were trained to use, while also acknowledging the anecdotal information we humans use to describe what we are seeing. As animal behavior consultants, it is important for us to follow these discussions because right now ground-breaking hypotheses on behavior and emotion are being formed. It is in the nature of our work to investigate these new ideas and adapt them to what we do.

Bekoff is professor emeritus of ecology and evolutionary biology at the University of Colorado, Boulder, and is a former Guggenheim Fellow. In 2000 he was awarded the Exemplar Award from the Animal Behavior Society for major long-term contributions to the field of animal behavior. He is also regional coordinator for Jane Goodall’s Roots & Shoots program, in which he works with students of all ages, senior citizens, and prisoners, and also is a member of the Ethics Committee of the Jane Goodall Institute. He and Goodall co-founded Ethologists for the Ethical Treatment of Animals: Citizens for Responsible Animal Behavior Studies in 2000. He is also the author of numerous other books, including Animal Passions and Beastly Virtues and Minding Animals.

Bekoff begins this book by offering historically recognized emotions in humans, as defined by Charles Darwin, Stuart Walton (author of A Natural History of Human Emotions) and Antonio Damasio (a behavioral neurologist and neuroscientist who heads USC’s Brain and Creativity Institute). He discusses how research is recognizing two different types of emotions. Primary emotions are the generalized rapid reflexive emotions, such as fight or flight response. These includes Darwin’s six original “universal emotions” of fear, anger, disgust, surprise, sadness, and happiness. Secondary emotions are those that are more complex.

Bekoff observes that “scientists now agree on the universality of the primary emotions based on studies that show that humans and animals share similar chemical and neurobiological systems”(p. 10). He introduces us to some basic arguments between skeptics and supporters of the existence of emotions in animals. Most important, he introduces his suggested “paradigm shift”— his jumping-off point for the new, or at least refreshed, exploration of

Book Review: The Emotional Lives of Animals by Mark Bekoff (New World Library, 2007)

Reviewed by Tonya Sakadinsky, BA, CDBC

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or serving the scientist? He states “[I]t is easy to get lazy and presume that the way we see and experience the world must be the only way. It is also easy to become self-serving and hope that because we want or need animals to be happy or unfeeling, they are” (p. 128).

Bekoff covers some work being done on mirror neurons in humans. (Mirror neurons are neurons that fire both when an animal physically acts and when an animal observes another animal of the same species performing the same act. Mirror neurons are believed to be one of the most important finding of neuroscience in recent history.) These “suggest a neurobiological underpinning of empathy” (p. 129). As is the case with most research in biology and behavior that could be explored as emotion, the work in mirror neurons is just beginning to scratch the surface. More investigation is needed into the science of emotions. Yet, Bekoff makes efforts throughout the book to synthesize all of work done in a variety of scientific disciplines into not only answers about emotions in animals, but also further hypotheses (and avenues of study) about them.

In the final part of the book, Bekoff and other esteemed in the field of cognitive ethology (such as Jane Goodall) offer ideas on how to conduct more thoughtful research, and even live by a more ethical code given this perspective on animals as sentient and emotional beings. He embraces better, more modern, ethical, noninvasive research through the use of technology. His discussion is far-reaching, and includes conditions in zoos, becoming conscientious omnivores, and further improving animal rights within the law and court systems.

The book is wrapped up with a healthy end note section divided chapter by chapter, containing information about the sources used or cited in the book as well as web sites for summaries of technical papers. It also includes a bibliography rich in information.

Tonya Sakadinsky has a BA degree in psychology/behavioral ecology. She is a Certified Dog Behavior Consultant and is also a member of IAABC’s Cat, Horse and Parrot Divisions. She has worked for 13 years in animal protection, sheltering and consultation. She also created a court-approved animal behavior class and consultation program for offenders of animal violations.

Book Review

animal behavior consulting: theory and practice: spring 2008

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