7/25/2019 Anguilla ~ 50 shades of blue

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The Toronto Sunn WEDNESDAY, JUNE 22, 201658 TRAVEL n n

The best route isnt always the quickest, something mapping appsdont always understand. For scenic drives, visitmyscenicdrives.com. Its not an app, so you can use this free service on Windows andBlackBerry phones as well as more common iPhones and Androids.

SUMMER ROAD TRIPS: Take the slow route

ERROL NAZARETHSpecial to Postmedia Network

Anguilla is a Caribbean par-adise that is off limits to largecruise ships. All-inclusive resortsare unwelcome as well.

Te last thing I want to see is(thousands) of cruise ship passen-gers walking through town bar-gaining over a $10 -shirt, says res-taurateur Dale Carty, who wantsthe island to be experienced onits own terms or not at all.

While that may sound harsh,Cartys sentiment holds a greatdeal of weight among the majorityof people who call Anguilla home.Carty and others insist the country

wont benefit from such tourism andthe United Nations backs them up.

Of each $100 US spent on avacation tour by a tourist from adeveloped country, only around$5 US actually stays in a develop-ing-country destinations econ-omy, a UN study concluded.

Tis conundrum how doesAnguilla preserve its relaxed vibe,old-world charm, quiet beaches,reputation as an exclusive destina-tion and attract more tourists? isacknowledged by those in charge ofpromoting the gorgeous eel-shapedisland near St. Martin/St. Maarten.

Tree years back, Candis Niles,

the countrys tourism director, toldTe Anguillian newspaper thatas we continue to chart Anguil-

las development into the 21st cen-tury, it is our challenge to strikean effective balance between theneeds of the market and the needsof our people whilst at the sametime maintaining the essential ele-ments that make us who we are as

a people and as a destination.Carty, who owns the hugelypopular astys Restaurant, andmany Anguillians I spoke with dur-ing a visit in April, told me point-blank there would be a revolutionif mega-cruise ships were allowedto dock on their beloved island or ifall-inclusive resorts began spring-ing up near its 33 pristine beaches.

While smaller cruise ships andyachts are permitted, Anguillian lawprohibits big ships from touchingits shores. Tere isnt one all-inclu-

sive resort or casino and there is agovernment ban on jet skis, citingnoise pollution and negative impactthe environment. Tere are no fastfood chain restaurants save forone Subway outlet on Anguilla.

Te British overseas territory isnt

easily accessible and its not cheap,but while it may have opted out as ago-to destination for spring break-ers and cruise passengers, thatdoesnt mean you shouldnt go. Infact, you should place it high on

your list if you crave seclusion, soli-

tude, incredible seafood and oceanwaters that are 50 shades of blue.People say theres noth-

ing to do. Tere isnothing to doand I like that, Carty says laugh-ing on a hot afternoon outsidehis 17-year-old restaurant. Actu-ally, there is, he adds. Terespara-sailing, snorkelling, diving.

o that list, add deep seafishing, hiking, kite surf-ing, stand-up paddle-board-ing, golfing and horse riding.

And at the end of April, theres

Moonsplash, a reggae festival thathas been held at the Dune Pre-serve for the past 26 years. Terustic, beachfront setting addsto its charm and theres some-thing appealing about not beingat an outdoor festival standingshoulder-to-shoulder with fans.

Reggae icons like oots and theMaytals and Gregory Isaacs haveplayed Moonsplash, and everylocal will tell you about the timeJimmy Buffet made a surprise visit

with his army of Parrotheads.Rain and Carnival celebrations

in St. Maarten took a toll on thisyears attendance but it didnt stopthe faithful from coming out to

hear artists like Queen Ifrica, onyRebel, rue Intentions and BritishDependency rock the main stage.

After Moonsplash, I caughtup with two Canadian expa-triates who are some of theislands biggest ambassadors.

Nori Evoy moved here fromMontreal with her parents 18

years ago and manages the pop-ular anguillabeaches.com site.

People come here so they donthave to hear jet skis, they come torelax and not be bothered, Evoytold me one evening at Te Vice-roy, a palatial resort where a nightin a suite will set you back $1,250

US. Te government understandswhy people visit and it also real-izes we need more visitors. Buttheres a way to do it without resort-ing to mass, commercial-type tour-ism. Nobody wants to see that.

Evoy says Anguillas reputa-

tion as a destination just for thejet set is a misperception.She has a point.

Anguillabeaches.com has a longlist of mid-price hotels, inns, vil-las and beach resorts plus placesto eat well and cheaply.

Evoy has visited the Caribbeanextensively and says people hereare genuinely nice, theyre proudof their island, and their warmth is

what keeps (tourists) coming back.Robin Ogilvie worked in the travel

industry in Canada for more than

30 years before moving to Anguillawhere she rus Las EsQuinas, a bou-tique four-room bed and break-fast with modernistic architecturaldesign and a stunning ocean view.

She says Anguilla is in its owncategory, and cites safety, thebeaches, gastronomy thats outof this world and peoples sin-cerity as its selling points.

Its a singular island and offers aonce in a lifetime vacation, she says.

Or as Evoy poetically put it:astys is Anguilla, the peo-ple are Anguilla, a shack on thebeach where you can get greatlobster is Anguilla, goats on theside of the road is Anguilla.

Anguilla wamts

tpirost

ERROL NAZARETH PHOTO

Different by design

Anguillas 33 beautiful beaches are free to all, safe, pristine and rarely crowded. Tourism development on theisland is tightly controlled, which is just the way locals, including chef-restaurateur Dale Carty, inset, like it.

NEED TO KNOWnWestJet flies year-round toSt. Martin/St. Maarten. Fromthere, its a 25 minute ferry rideor a 7-minute flight to Anguilla.nFor info, see the Anguilla

Tourist Boards ivisitanguilla.com and anguilla-beaches.com.

Anguilla is not your typicaltouristy Caribbean island and it doesnt want to be

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