an ode to olives jessica nickels, ms, rd/ld february 2008 20111oklahoma cooperative extension...

An Ode to OlivesAn Ode to Olives

Jessica Nickels, MS, RD/LD Jessica Nickels, MS, RD/LD

February 2008February 2008

20112011 11Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Oklahoma Cooperative Extension ServiceService

HistoryHistory

Not known exactly when the wild olive became a Not known exactly when the wild olive became a domesticated crop. domesticated crop. A leaf from an olive tree is mentioned in chapter 8 of A leaf from an olive tree is mentioned in chapter 8 of

Genesis when Noah finds one in the dove's beak. Genesis when Noah finds one in the dove's beak. In Greek Mythology, as depicted in the In Greek Mythology, as depicted in the IliadIliad, olive oil , olive oil

is known only as a luxury of the wealthy--an exotic is known only as a luxury of the wealthy--an exotic product, prized chiefly for its value in groomingproduct, prized chiefly for its value in grooming Warriors anointed themselves after bathing.Warriors anointed themselves after bathing.

All tradition points to the limestone hills of Attica as the All tradition points to the limestone hills of Attica as the seat of its first cultivation on the Hellenic peninsula. seat of its first cultivation on the Hellenic peninsula.

20112011 22Oklahoma Cooperative Extension ServiceOklahoma Cooperative Extension Service

History cont’dHistory cont’d

A pleasing substitute for butter and animal fats consumed by A pleasing substitute for butter and animal fats consumed by people to the north people to the north

Became emblem not only of peace but of national wealth and Became emblem not only of peace but of national wealth and domestic plenty; wild olive spray of the Olympic victor, olive crown domestic plenty; wild olive spray of the Olympic victor, olive crown of the Roman conqueror at ovationof the Roman conqueror at ovation

Among the Greeks the oil was valued as an important article of Among the Greeks the oil was valued as an important article of diet, as well as for its external use. diet, as well as for its external use.

Roman people employed it widely in food and cookery--the Roman people employed it widely in food and cookery--the wealthy as an indispensable adjunct to grooming; and in the wealthy as an indispensable adjunct to grooming; and in the luxurious days of the later empire it was said that long and luxurious days of the later empire it was said that long and pleasant life depended on two fluids: wine within and oil without. pleasant life depended on two fluids: wine within and oil without.

The oil of the bitter wild olive was employed by Roman physicians The oil of the bitter wild olive was employed by Roman physicians in medicine, but does not appear ever to have had a culinary use. in medicine, but does not appear ever to have had a culinary use.


Olive TreeOlive Tree An evergreen tree or shrub native to the Mediterranean, Asia, and An evergreen tree or shrub native to the Mediterranean, Asia, and

parts of Africa. It is short and squat (rarely exceeds 8–15 meters parts of Africa. It is short and squat (rarely exceeds 8–15 meters in height).in height).

Silvery green leaves are oblong, measure 4–10 cm long and 1–3 Silvery green leaves are oblong, measure 4–10 cm long and 1–3 cm wide. cm wide.

Trunk is typically gnarled and twisted.Trunk is typically gnarled and twisted. Small white flowers, with four-cleft calyx and corolla, two stamens Small white flowers, with four-cleft calyx and corolla, two stamens

and bifid stigma, are borne generally on the last year's wood, in and bifid stigma, are borne generally on the last year's wood, in racemes springing from the axils of the leaves.racemes springing from the axils of the leaves.

Fruit is a small drupe 1–2.5 cm long, thinner-fleshed and smaller Fruit is a small drupe 1–2.5 cm long, thinner-fleshed and smaller in wild plants than in orchard cultivars. in wild plants than in orchard cultivars.

Olives are harvested at green stage or left to ripen to a rich purple Olives are harvested at green stage or left to ripen to a rich purple color (black olive). Canned black olives may contain chemicals color (black olive). Canned black olives may contain chemicals that turn them black artificially.that turn them black artificially.


ProductionProduction

RankCountry/

RegionProduction (in

tons)

- World 17,317,089

1 Spain 6,160,100

2 Italy 3,149,830

3 Greece 2,400,000

4 Turkey 1,800,000

5 Syria 998,988

6 Tunisia 500,000

7 Morocco 470,000

8 Egypt 318,339

9 Algeria 300,000

10 Portugal 280,000

11 Lebanon 180,000

Olive is the most Olive is the most extensively cultivated extensively cultivated fruit crop in the world. fruit crop in the world.

The Mediterranean The Mediterranean region represents 95% region represents 95% of the world production of the world production of olives.of olives.


CultivationCultivation

Key characteristic of Mediterranean mixed Key characteristic of Mediterranean mixed farming farming

Played large part in economic development of Played large part in economic development of ancient Greece because of suitability of olive ancient Greece because of suitability of olive oil as an export cropoil as an export crop Attica, the region of Athens, was a grain importer Attica, the region of Athens, was a grain importer

and olive oil exporter from early historic times. and olive oil exporter from early historic times. Athenian pottery industry was stimulated largely by Athenian pottery industry was stimulated largely by

demand for containers in which to export olive oil. demand for containers in which to export olive oil.


TodayToday

The olive has been spread widely around the The olive has been spread widely around the world world

The Mediterranean lands remain the main The Mediterranean lands remain the main source of the oilsource of the oil


Types of olivesTypes of olives


Types of olives, cont’dTypes of olives, cont’d

Kalamata – beautiful and dark, its intense Kalamata – beautiful and dark, its intense flavor stands up to lamb and swordfish, flavor stands up to lamb and swordfish, completes a Greek salad, complements a completes a Greek salad, complements a mellow Merlot.mellow Merlot.



Picholine – Creamy, nutty, and perfectly chewy, Picholine – Creamy, nutty, and perfectly chewy, this is the ideal choice for savory snacks and this is the ideal choice for savory snacks and antipasto platters. Serve with crisp dry white antipasto platters. Serve with crisp dry white wine.wine.



Nicoise – Nutty, fragrant, and firm add this Nicoise – Nutty, fragrant, and firm add this classic olive flavor to fish.classic olive flavor to fish.

Spanish –Firm and juicy, this versatile classic is Spanish –Firm and juicy, this versatile classic is equally at home in deviled eggs or martinis.equally at home in deviled eggs or martinis.



Black Ripe – The American classic. This Black Ripe – The American classic. This plump, mild favorite is perfect on salads, pizza, plump, mild favorite is perfect on salads, pizza, even fingertips, and is best enjoyed with beer.even fingertips, and is best enjoyed with beer.

Dry Greek – Mixed with brandy, this is an Dry Greek – Mixed with brandy, this is an excellent cooking olive that adds complexity to excellent cooking olive that adds complexity to pastas, roast veal, and tomato sauces.pastas, roast veal, and tomato sauces.



Green Ripe – Similar, but slightly more salty Green Ripe – Similar, but slightly more salty than the Black Ripe. Absorbs the flavors of the than the Black Ripe. Absorbs the flavors of the other food while adding color and an earthy, other food while adding color and an earthy, natural touch to a variety of dishes from baked natural touch to a variety of dishes from baked whitefish to tuna salad.whitefish to tuna salad.



Gaeta – Meaty oily, Gaeta – Meaty oily, and intense, this and intense, this Italian olive is well Italian olive is well suited to slow suited to slow cooked stews, cooked stews, braised dishes, and braised dishes, and hearty Zinfandels.hearty Zinfandels.

Cerignola – Large, Cerignola – Large, fruity, and buttery, fruity, and buttery, this is a great olive to this is a great olive to marinate and serve marinate and serve with a variety of with a variety of appetizers.appetizers.



Sicilian – Crisp, crunchy, and great right out of Sicilian – Crisp, crunchy, and great right out of the jar, combined with swordfish or braised the jar, combined with swordfish or braised pork.pork.

Amphissa – Tender, earthy, and slightly tart, Amphissa – Tender, earthy, and slightly tart, use this olive in tapenade spreads or meat use this olive in tapenade spreads or meat stews and red sauces.stews and red sauces.


The Curing ProcessThe Curing Process

Olives are either lye cured, lye cured with Olives are either lye cured, lye cured with fermentation, naturally cured or dry cured.fermentation, naturally cured or dry cured.


Lye CuringLye Curing

Method used for Method used for Black RipeBlack Ripe & & Green RipeGreen Ripe olives. olives. Begins with handpicked, unripe green olives that are Begins with handpicked, unripe green olives that are

cured in a series of lye and oxygenated water baths for cured in a series of lye and oxygenated water baths for 7 days or until the solution penetrates to the pits and 7 days or until the solution penetrates to the pits and removes bitternessremoves bitterness

A final rinse follows and, in the case of A final rinse follows and, in the case of Black RipeBlack Ripe olives, iron is added to stabilize color. olives, iron is added to stabilize color.

Carbon dioxide is introduced to neutralize the lye, after Carbon dioxide is introduced to neutralize the lye, after which the olives are sized, pitted, canned, and topped which the olives are sized, pitted, canned, and topped with brine. with brine.

Once sealed, they’re cooked with steam. Most similar Once sealed, they’re cooked with steam. Most similar to home-cured olives, the Green Ripe variety is packed to home-cured olives, the Green Ripe variety is packed without the introduction of oxygen or iron. without the introduction of oxygen or iron.


Dry CuringDry Curing

Starts with ripe, soft olives and results in salty, chewy Starts with ripe, soft olives and results in salty, chewy varieties, such as the varieties, such as the Dried GreekDried Greek olive. olive.

Before curing, olives are gently “smashed” to allow Before curing, olives are gently “smashed” to allow moisture to permeate their skins. moisture to permeate their skins.

Then fruit is layered and covered with salt for 4 weeks. Then fruit is layered and covered with salt for 4 weeks. After curing, olives are immersed in hot water to After curing, olives are immersed in hot water to

remove salt, rinsed in cold water, and spread to dry. remove salt, rinsed in cold water, and spread to dry. Olives are then coated with olive oil before being Olives are then coated with olive oil before being

packed and sterilized. packed and sterilized.


Lye Curing with Lye Curing with FermentationFermentation

Used for Used for SpanishSpanish olives, also start as hand- olives, also start as hand-picked, unripe green olives. picked, unripe green olives.

First submerged in a lye bath for a few hours to First submerged in a lye bath for a few hours to remove bitterness. remove bitterness.

Fruit is then rinsed and soaked in a strong salt Fruit is then rinsed and soaked in a strong salt brine for 3 months, causing fermentation. brine for 3 months, causing fermentation.

Olives then bottled in salt brine, capped and Olives then bottled in salt brine, capped and pasteurized. pasteurized.


Natural Curing ProcessesNatural Curing Processes Processes favored for olive bar varieties. Processes favored for olive bar varieties. One approach is to soak olives in water that is changed One approach is to soak olives in water that is changed

daily, after which olives are cured in salt brine for daily, after which olives are cured in salt brine for several months. several months.

Another Natural Curing process used for Another Natural Curing process used for SicilianSicilian olives olives involves soaking olives in salt and lactic acid for 1 year. involves soaking olives in salt and lactic acid for 1 year.

The same process, minus the lactic acid, is used to The same process, minus the lactic acid, is used to cure cure KalamataKalamata, , AmphissaAmphissa, , NiçoiseNiçoise, , PicholinePicholine, , CerignolaCerignola and and GaetaGaeta olives. olives.


Taste ProfilesTaste Profiles


Olive OilOlive Oil

Great variety of flavors makes it excellent for use on Great variety of flavors makes it excellent for use on salads, pasta, beans and bread. salads, pasta, beans and bread.

Has a relatively high smoking point which means you can Has a relatively high smoking point which means you can brown foods without great danger of burning. (Not suitable brown foods without great danger of burning. (Not suitable for deep frying.)for deep frying.)

When olive oil becomes very cold the oleic acid tends to When olive oil becomes very cold the oleic acid tends to coagulate, seen as whitish globules. coagulate, seen as whitish globules. Return to room temperature to liquefy. Store fine extra Return to room temperature to liquefy. Store fine extra

virgin oils in a cool dark place. virgin oils in a cool dark place.


Types of Olive OilTypes of Olive Oil

Extra Virgin Olive OilExtra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)- top grade, low acidity, (EVOO)- top grade, low acidity, comes from first pressing of choicest, handpicked olives. comes from first pressing of choicest, handpicked olives. Mechanically pressed, requiring no heat or chemicals. Mechanically pressed, requiring no heat or chemicals. Has natural antioxidants which delay rancidity. Has natural antioxidants which delay rancidity. Flavor, color & consistency vary due to olive variety, Flavor, color & consistency vary due to olive variety,

location and weather. location and weather.


Virgin Olive OilVirgin Olive Oil

Slightly more acidity, pressed from olives that are not Slightly more acidity, pressed from olives that are not necessarily top gradenecessarily top grade May be from second or third pressing of pulp, also May be from second or third pressing of pulp, also

mechanically pressed. mechanically pressed. This and extra virgin are the only truly "cold This and extra virgin are the only truly "cold

pressed" oils.pressed" oils.


"Pure" Olive Oil"Pure" Olive Oil

Also called commercial grade. Also called commercial grade. Extracted from pulp and pits left after second pressing Extracted from pulp and pits left after second pressing

of lower quality olives. of lower quality olives. Heat, high pressure and solvents are used. Heat, high pressure and solvents are used. Sometimes a small amount of better quality olive oil is Sometimes a small amount of better quality olive oil is

blended in. blended in. "Pure" refers indicates no non-olive oils are mixed in."Pure" refers indicates no non-olive oils are mixed in.


Olive Oil Health BenefitsOlive Oil Health Benefits

Research has shown the incidence of heart disease is Research has shown the incidence of heart disease is dramatically lower in Mediterranean countries where dramatically lower in Mediterranean countries where olive oil is a dietary staple olive oil is a dietary staple

Science has now determined that olive oil, as a Science has now determined that olive oil, as a monounsaturated fat, increases HDL or monounsaturated fat, increases HDL or goodgood blood blood cholesterol. cholesterol. Important to remember that olive oil Important to remember that olive oil isis still a fat and still a fat and

should be consumed in limited quantities, in proper should be consumed in limited quantities, in proper ratio to your balanced diet. ratio to your balanced diet.


Which is better for your health: Which is better for your health: extra virgin, virgin, or plain extra virgin, virgin, or plain olive oil??olive oil??

Answer: Answer: The difference between the olive oils listed is their The difference between the olive oils listed is their

acidity level, which affects mostly taste, not acidity level, which affects mostly taste, not nutritional content. nutritional content.

Lower acidity oils, such as extra virgin, tend to Lower acidity oils, such as extra virgin, tend to have more antioxidants, but that is not reflected in have more antioxidants, but that is not reflected in their classification. their classification.

Antioxidants may reduce risk heart disease and Antioxidants may reduce risk heart disease and cancer. cancer.


How is olive oil made?How is olive oil made?1.1. Clean the olives- Stems, twigs, leaves removed and Clean the olives- Stems, twigs, leaves removed and

olives may or may not be cleaned with waterolives may or may not be cleaned with water2.2. Grind olives into a pasteGrind olives into a paste3.3. Mixing or Malaxation for 20 to 40 minutes allows small Mixing or Malaxation for 20 to 40 minutes allows small

oil droplets to combine into bigger ones which can be oil droplets to combine into bigger ones which can be removed in the next step. It is an absolutely necessary removed in the next step. It is an absolutely necessary step. step.

Paste often heated to 28Paste often heated to 28ooC during this process. C during this process. Longer mixing times increase oil yield and help oil Longer mixing times increase oil yield and help oil

pick up minor components which can improve flavor pick up minor components which can improve flavor but longer mixing allows oxidation which decreases but longer mixing allows oxidation which decreases shelf life.shelf life.


How is olive oil made?How is olive oil made?4.4. Separating oil and water from the olive Separating oil and water from the olive

paste (pomace)paste (pomace) Paste is pressed.Paste is pressed. Materials added to increase yield, they Materials added to increase yield, they

extract additional oil from pomace:extract additional oil from pomace: Types enzymes: Types enzymes:

talc talc steam steam hexane, other solvents hexane, other solvents alkali alkali


How is olive oil made?How is olive oil made?5.5. Separating oil from waterSeparating oil from water 2 methods:2 methods:

Centrifugal Olive Oil Separator- Centrifugal Olive Oil Separator- Like a cream Like a cream separator in a dairy, the liquid is spun which separates separator in a dairy, the liquid is spun which separates the heavier water from the oil. the heavier water from the oil. PurifierPurifier: takes a little water from mostly oil: takes a little water from mostly oilSkimmerSkimmer: takes a little oil from a lot of water (if you : takes a little oil from a lot of water (if you want to scavenge the wastewater)want to scavenge the wastewater)ClarifierClarifier: takes a little solid from a liquid phase : takes a little solid from a liquid phase (removes particles from oil before final filtering)(removes particles from oil before final filtering)

Gravity Olive Oil Decanter- Gravity Olive Oil Decanter- The oil and water is put The oil and water is put into tanks where they separate by gravityinto tanks where they separate by gravity


How is olive oil made?How is olive oil made?

6.6. Processing the olive oilProcessing the olive oilRefining- reduces acidity and improve flavorRefining- reduces acidity and improve flavorBleaching- reduces chlorophyll, carotenoids, Bleaching- reduces chlorophyll, carotenoids, residual fatty acid salts and pesticides residual fatty acid salts and pesticides Deodorization- reduces odorDeodorization- reduces odor


How many olives does it How many olives does it take?take?

Trees yield 10—500 lbs of olives depending on how big Trees yield 10—500 lbs of olives depending on how big the tree, how old, variety, whether it is watered, the tree, how old, variety, whether it is watered, whether it is an "off" or "on" year, weather, etc. whether it is an "off" or "on" year, weather, etc.

5 gallon bucket will hold about 30 lbs of olives.5 gallon bucket will hold about 30 lbs of olives. Most common types of olives in California, the Most common types of olives in California, the

Manzanillo and Mission, contain anywhere from 15—Manzanillo and Mission, contain anywhere from 15—30% oil by volume. 30% oil by volume.

1 ton of olives yields 35—50 gallons of oil at a mill. 1 ton of olives yields 35—50 gallons of oil at a mill.


How many olives do I need to How many olives do I need to eat to equal 1 tablespoon of eat to equal 1 tablespoon of oil?oil?

Depends on size and oil content of the olivesDepends on size and oil content of the olives The large black canned olives are actually quite The large black canned olives are actually quite

low in oil - sometimes only 7%, which is why they low in oil - sometimes only 7%, which is why they are table olives and are not used generally to make are table olives and are not used generally to make oil. oil.

Some smaller olives used primarily for oil making Some smaller olives used primarily for oil making can have up to 35% oil content. Olives can range can have up to 35% oil content. Olives can range from 1—14 grams in weight. from 1—14 grams in weight.


There is about 1 There is about 1 tablespoon olive oil in:tablespoon olive oil in:

20 medium Mission olives that have an oil content 20 medium Mission olives that have an oil content of 20%of 20%

40 small ripe black olives40 small ripe black olives 20 jumbo ripe black olives20 jumbo ripe black olives 7 super colossal ripe black olive7 super colossal ripe black olive There are fewer calories in 1 tablespoon oil than There are fewer calories in 1 tablespoon oil than

any of the above because olives also have any of the above because olives also have carbohydrates which add additional calories.carbohydrates which add additional calories.

20112011 Oklahoma Cooperative Extension ServiceOklahoma Cooperative Extension Service 3434

Guidelines for tasting oilsGuidelines for tasting oils

Can be done 2 ways: with oil spread on unsalted Can be done 2 ways: with oil spread on unsalted white bread, or sipped from tasting glasses. Either white bread, or sipped from tasting glasses. Either way, taste milder smelling oils first. way, taste milder smelling oils first.

When using tasting glasses, take a small sip of When using tasting glasses, take a small sip of approximately 2 to 3 ml. approximately 2 to 3 ml.

Distribute the oil throughout the whole mouth Distribute the oil throughout the whole mouth cavity, because the perception of the four primary cavity, because the perception of the four primary tastes (sweet, salty, acid and bitter) varies in tastes (sweet, salty, acid and bitter) varies in intensity depending on the area of the tongue, intensity depending on the area of the tongue, palate and throat. palate and throat.


Guidelines for tasting, Guidelines for tasting, continuedcontinued

With lips semi-closed, inhale rapidly 2 or 3 times in With lips semi-closed, inhale rapidly 2 or 3 times in succession to atomize the oil in your mouth. The succession to atomize the oil in your mouth. The air, mixed with the oil, sprays onto your tongue and air, mixed with the oil, sprays onto your tongue and palate. palate.

Memorize the flavors, then spit the oil out. Memorize the flavors, then spit the oil out.

If necessary, repeat the tasting, but only after If necessary, repeat the tasting, but only after you’ve rinsed your mouth with clean water. you’ve rinsed your mouth with clean water.

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Guidelines for tasting, Guidelines for tasting, continuedcontinued

It may help to chew a slice of apple between It may help to chew a slice of apple between samples. samples.

The stronger the oil flavor, the longer you need to The stronger the oil flavor, the longer you need to wait before the next tasting. wait before the next tasting.

A well-made reasonably fresh oil should exhibit A well-made reasonably fresh oil should exhibit firstly a definite olive-fruity note, followed by firstly a definite olive-fruity note, followed by pungent, green and bitter. pungent, green and bitter.

No negative attributes or defects should be No negative attributes or defects should be present. present.


ReferencesReferences

WikipediaWikipedia

Lindsay Olive Company - Lindsay Olive Company - http://www.lindsayolives.com/olives101/index.hhttp://www.lindsayolives.com/olives101/index.htmltml

California Olive Oil AssociationCalifornia Olive Oil Association


an ode to olives jessica nickels, ms, rd/ld february 2008 20111oklahoma cooperative extension...

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