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MEADOWS AN ALTERNATIVE MANAGEMENT STRATEGY

FOR SCHOOL LANDSCAPES By Vickie Wallace and Alyssa Siegel-Miles

UConn Extension In schools across Connecticut, turf and lawn areas are an essential component of a positive student experience. While turf areas provide many benefits and play a critical role in the school landscape, large expanses of lawn can displace diverse natural habitats that allow wildlife to survive and proliferate. Outside of athletic fields and recreational areas, many schools have significant areas of turf at property perimeters far from buildings, near wetlands, or on slopes and uneven terrain. These areas may be costly to maintain at a low height of cut and a challenge to access. Transitioning some of these areas to meadows can have significant positive financial, environmental and educational benefits. Replacing extraneous areas of lawn with native vegetation provides essential habitat for many species threatened by the rapid spread of suburban development. In the United States, over 24 million acres of lawn are maintained by homeowners and landscape managers. Lawns and large expanses of turf required for recreational play are composed of select species that, when properly cared for and mown close, provide dense, uniform playing surfaces. The dedicated care of this turfgrass monoculture can impact both the environment and the school budget. Attempts to reduce acreage of non-essential turf grass warrants consideration. • Lawn maintenance can be labor intensive. Attempts to manage turf during the optimum growing

season and throughout the hot, dry summer months can require frequent inputs of fertilizer and irrigation, while the continued mowing events use fuel and non-renewable resources. Here in the northeast, sports fields and recreational areas often are overused during the summer months, when heat and drought already are significant stresses to cool season turf grasses. Injury and wear during the summer, when active growth of roots and vegetative canopy is limited, can severely impact the health and recuperation of the turfgrass plants.

● If applied in excess or incorrectly (when turf is not actively growing), fertilizer on turf, whether synthetic or organic, may not be utilized efficiently by the turfgrass plants, leading to the potential of nutrient runoff and leaching into groundwater.

● Away from K-8 school properties, where pesticides may be utilized and applied, these products may affect more than the target pest, resulting in an imbalance of natural pest enemies in the landscape.

● For wildlife seeking habitat to hide or nest, turf of a short mowing height and suitable for recreational purposes has both a limited food supply and limited opportunity for protection.

WHAT IS A MEADOW?

A meadow is a field of natural grasses and native wildflowers, which becomes self-sustaining and flourishes naturally.1 Creating a meadow incorporates native plants into the landscape and to extend species diversity. Native meadow plants are resilient, adapted to the regional climate, and

1 Zimmerman, 2010.

Turf provides a uniform playing surface for school athletic fields.

2 can survive adverse conditions. Meadows that are incorporated successfully into school property management programs reduce property maintenance expenses over time. Advantages of a flourishing, mature meadow on a school property include:

1. Reduce the overall use of fertilizers and pesticides, including approved EPA minimum risk products (25b) on non-priority turf or in landscape areas. Overuse of any product can alter the balance and influence the health of beneficial soil organisms that support the ecosystem.

2. Conserve fuel, labor, water, and other inputs. Once established, meadows require little maintenance. Native and select non-invasive introduced plants are better adapted to the existing soil conditions, reducing cost and maintenance. An annual mowing, in either late fall or very early spring, is all that is required.

3. Control soil erosion through the diverse assortment of meadow plants. The deep root systems of many meadow grasses and flowering plants hold and stabilize the soil, infiltrate large quantities of stormwater, prevent excessive water movement over soil surfaces, and recharge our aquifers.

4. Produce windbreaks that moderate temperatures in the surrounding area.

5. Establish healthy, sustainable ecosystems within the school landscape. Restoring portions of the landscape to a more natural environment increases populations of beneficial microorganisms, plants, and insects. Meadows provide food and shelter for a wide variety of native plant, insect, bird, and animal species.

6. Create beautifully evolving landscapes that calm the sense and stimulate connection to nature. Native environments provide visual stimulation, are pleasing to the eye, and improve the overall quality of life for students and staff at the school. These dynamic, yet peaceful, areas are teeming with life and activity that inspire interest in numerous butterflies, caterpillars, birds and other wildlife.

Realistic expectations are necessary when creating a meadow. An understanding of ecological succession is critical to a meadow’s success. A meadow is a natural ecological community that evolves and changes over time to be displaced by woody plants and trees. Maintaining a meadow slows the natural process of ecological succession that would eventually occur over time. True grassland ecosystems are maintained through animal grazing and naturally occurring fires that allow grasses to dominate. Mowing annually effectively mimics this natural grazing process and prevents woody plants from displacing the meadow grasses and perennials. Proper plant selection, site preparation, and maintenance is critical to designing, establishing, and sustaining a flourishing, beautiful meadow. Once established, and over time, a meadow can reduce labor and maintenance costs; however, a meadow is not a “no maintenance” proposition. Particularly in the first few years, extra care must be taken so a healthy proportion of desired perennials and grasses become established. Weeds must be discouraged or removed. After several years, and as the meadow matures, the demands of maintenance will lessen. The better the site is prepared, cleared, designed, and maintained during the first few years, the more established and resilient the meadow will become.

Snakeroot (Ageratina altissima) attracts butterflies. (Photo by Tom Barry)

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DESIGNING A MEADOW When designing a meadow, plants are selected for much more than simple aesthetic value. The way that plants relate within a plant community, and to each other, should be part of the overall design equation. Plants should easily adapt to the existing soil conditions, available water, and microclimate, so added inputs such as irrigation, fertilizer and soil amendments can be reduced or avoided altogether. CHOOSE A SITE Many factors contribute to a meadow’s successful longevity. Selecting a site that can sustain a meadow is crucial. The total hours of sunlight the site receives during the day is an important consideration. Most meadow plants prefer full sun; therefore, an area must receive no less than half a day of direct sunlight to ensure success with sun-loving plants. Understanding the required minimum hours of sunlight that support the desired plant species is critical. Some native meadow plants may be easily incorporated into a location with few hours of direct sunlight, such as a woodland edge, while misplaced plants will quickly fade in conditions that are unfavorable to their establishment. Other site considerations that affect meadow longevity and plant establishment include soil type, moisture, pH, and fertility. Grade and topography also impact the meadow location and species composition. For example, a north slope may create shady conditions unfavorable to many native meadow species. An honest assessment of the site is critical to the overall understanding and function of the meadow. ASSESS EXISTING SITE CONDITIONS ● Draw a map or diagram of the location, including the intended meadow area. Identify and

highlight areas that differ in soil, light or water conditions. ● Analyze the site. Recognize solar patterns and movements, water availability, drainage

patterns, and existing vegetation. ○ Take a soil test to evaluate the pH, existing nutrients and other soil characteristics of the

intended meadow area. For instructions, visit http://www.soiltest.uconn.edu/sampling.php or call the UConn Home and Garden Education Center toll-free (877) 486-6271 or the UConn Soil testing lab at (860) 486-4274. Typically, for native areas, unless the site is extremely infertile, few amendments are required.

○ Note the total hours of sun the area receives each day and the path of the sun over the area.

○ Determine how water moves within the site. Identify drainage patterns and low spots where water settles. Note any areas of standing water and the time required for the water to recede from the site. Identify if a high water table exists. Consider changes in water movement over the course of the year through multiple seasons (i.e., a spot could be flooded in spring, but dry in summer) and the historical pattern over several years.

○ Identify the soil type, texture and structure - clay, sandy, gravelly, silt or loam.

○ Evaluate the topography of the area (hills, slopes, and directional exposure).

○ Consider wildlife (deer, groundhogs, or rabbits) that may affect the success of plant establishment.

● Consider micro-variations within the site. If areas of the site vary in moisture levels, soil type, or other factors, match plants in those areas to the specific conditions for greater establishment success.

This area at a school was chosen to be transitioned to a meadow because the slope makes it too difficult to maintain as

turf. (Photo by Tom Barry)

4 FUNCTIONAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR PLANT SELECTION Based on an honest assessment of existing growing conditions, choose plants that will best thrive at the site. A meadow will require minimal fertilizer inputs, barring an extreme soil imbalance. Most soil amendments will promote weed growth at the expense of the desirable species. 1. Determine planting method: seed or live plants (plugs). Depending on the scope of the project, plant selection should be based on species availability, matching plant communities of similar sites, and budget to establish the site. If planting by seed, a predetermined seed mix can be purchased that is most suitable to the site’s conditions. Use caution with seed mixes composed of a high percentage of flowering annuals and short-lived perennials. These mixes offer quick visual results, but long term, the challenge to outcompete weeds can be a burden. If seed cost is not a limiting factor, it may be possible to design a specialized mix. 2. Elements to consider when choosing plants: Grasses: A substantial portion (about 40%) of a meadow should be comprised of grasses2. A combination of cool season (e.g., fine fescues) and warm season (e.g., little bluestem) grasses is recommended. None of the meadow grasses should be so aggressive that they will dominate the stand. Clump-forming grasses are preferred over rhizomatous grasses. Grasses offer: ● Fibrous root systems that limit erosion and provide quick access to soil water needed to

survive drought periods. ● Aesthetic qualities of color, texture, and movement. ● Support for taller meadow flowers. ● Important food sources, nesting material, and habitat for many species of wildlife. ● A cover to prevent weeds from establishing. ● An extension of the aesthetic appeal of the meadow beyond the flower-blooming period with

graceful texture and foliage color of amber, red, and golden hues in the winter landscape.

Be advised that some grasses that have been developed for biofuel use are extremely aggressive, including some cultivars of Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum ‘Alamo’, ‘Kanlow’, ‘Cave-in-Rock’) and Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii ‘Niagara’). These cultivars can establish quickly, change the population stand, and affect the biodiversity of the meadow.

Nurse crop: An annual “nurse” crop is recommended in the first year to aid in establishment of the meadow, particularly if the slope of the area is of concern. A nurse crop is usually a quick establishing, clump-forming grass that helps reduce weed invasion, holds the seed or young plants in place, and protects the soil from erosion. Annual oats (Avena sativa) or cereal rye grass (Secale cereale) can be used as a nurse grass for a spring seeding, while winter wheat (Triticum aestivum) can be used in the fall. Mow an annual nurse crop before it goes to seed to prevent it from re-seeding. The nurse crop also can be slower growing, non-competitive perennial grasses. Hard fescues are often selected as the nurse grass here in the New England area.

2 Urban and Suburban Meadows: Bringing Meadowscaping to Big and Small Spaces, Catherine Zimmerman, 2010.

A successfully established meadow. (Photo by Mark Lavoie)

5 Flowering annuals: Flowering annuals are sometimes a component of seed mixes, as they offer eye-catching color and establish quickly. Flowering annuals must be chosen carefully and, if desired, can be avoided entirely, as they can make establishment and maintenance in the first growing season more challenging. Showy, exotic species selected for their aesthetic appeal may be less likely to survive in a highly competitive meadow environment, if they have not adapted to the existing conditions. Be aware that some aggressive, non-native annuals and perennials are sometimes included in meadow mixes, such as Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica), Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota), and Dame’s Rocket (Hesperis matronalis), and should be avoided if possible. If flowering annuals are desired as a permanent component of the meadow, then part of the meadow maintenance plan should include overseeding with these desired annuals every 1-3 years to maintain or rejuvenate the bold colors within the stand. If added pops of color are desired, annuals can also be added once the meadow has become established. Timing of Planting: Warm season grasses and late summer/fall-flowering plants establish most readily when seeded (or planted) in late spring. Cool season perennial grasses and spring flowering plants develop best with late summer/early fall seedings. Summer annual grassy weeds are less of a challenge and weather conditions are usually more favorable for establishment in the fall. 3. Group plants of natural communities that grow together in uncultivated areas, with similar sun, water and nutrient needs. ● Choose plants that grow well in the existing conditions. If the

intended meadow area is on a slope, different species may thrive in different sections. Water tends to flow to low areas, so low areas typically will receive more water than high areas.

● Select plants that have co-evolved into stable plant communities and that complement one another. For example, goldenrod, aster, and little bluestem work well in a dry, infertile, sunny site, while swamp milkweed, gayfeather, and sedge thrive in a wet, swampy meadow.

4. Understand the process of successional change that occurs in a meadow over time. ● Through the season: growth of some

plants is most active in summer (warm season) while growth of others is most vigorous during spring and fall (cool season). To reduce invading weeds include both types of plants to occupy space and avoid leaving a seasonal opening for weed establishment.

● For multi-year health of the meadow, include: ○ Short-term species (annuals and

biennials) that germinate, flower, and fade in the first or second year. These plants are critical to establishing the meadow early and providing immediate competition for problematic weeds. Annual nurse grasses are recommended over flowering annuals, due to the maintenance required in the first year to successfully establish perennials.

A small meadow in its first year delights with colorful annual poppies and bachelor’s buttons (top, photo by Tom Kalal). By fall, the establishing

meadow is dominated by black-eyed Susans, grasses, and perennials (above, photo by Alyssa Siegel-Miles).

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○ Long-term perennial species that take an extended time to establish. While many perennials will germinate during the first year, root systems often take multiple years to fully develop. They generally will not flower until the second or third year. Perennials are necessary and vital to succeed short-term species that may fade in the second and third years.

5. Aesthetic qualities such as plant color, texture, growth form, and sequence of bloom can also be considered, once the site condition needs have been met. Many meadow species bloom or have aesthetic appeal at various points in the year, offering the possibility of a beautiful, four-season display if species are chosen carefully. Other attractive elements that can be included are:

● A mowed border of cool season grasses along the perimeter, which can focus the eye and make a meadow look more well-tended and consistent with a suburban setting.

● Pathways, which can be mowed or constructed through the meadow to better appreciate the beauty from various viewpoints, and promote an opportunity to observe up close the many interesting insects and birds feeding in the interior.

PREPARING THE SITE

Several strategies can remove or kill unwanted existing vegetation within the confines of the area to be transitioned to meadow. Time spent on site preparation, to rid the site of competing vegetation, leads to fewer weeds in the meadow in subsequent years. Weed seeds can lay dormant for years. The soil surface should be left undisturbed, whenever possible, to minimize germination of weeds when exposed to sunlight at the soil surface. Less disturbance to the site also will maintain soil structure and retain organic matter. To begin the process of creating and developing a meadow, first outline the shape of the intended meadow. Define the planting area by mowing or staking the perimeter edge. If there is a lack of vegetation, the outlined shape can be perimeter-staked with string or marked with field paint. OPTIONS FOR BARE SOIL MEADOW ESTABLISHMENT The establishment of bare soil is optimal for spreading a new seed mixture uniformly within the area. If the site has existing vegetation, that vegetation must be removed or killed, ideally in late summer or early fall. Once removed, the soil must then be prepared and planted immediately.

• If seeding is to be delayed until the spring, but the area must be tilled or cleared in the fall, a cover crop, such as winter rye or hairy vetch, can be planted to add nutrients to the soil. The cover crop must be harvested or turned under as part of final site preparation in the spring before seeding.

• If preparing the soil in spring for a fall seeding, a cover crop, such as buckwheat, is recommended to keep spring annual weeds in check.

1. If the area was originally turf, the sod can be undercut and removed with a sod cutter, shovel or hand tools to a shallow depth of 1.5” (just deep enough to remove all turf rhizomes or stolons). Excised sod can be composted. Note that an area that has been in turf for many years may have a different pH compared to a non-turfed area. A soil test will identify the soil pH of the intended meadow area. Plants native to CT generally prefer acidic soils. Based on soil test results, it may be necessary to amend the soil for meadow plant establishment.

2. The area can be scalped/mowed very low to the ground, and the soil can be tilled. However, tilling of the soil will bring dormant weed seeds to the soil surface, and when exposed to sunlight, they will germinate and compete with meadow flowers. Till the soil (in spring or fall)

Buckwheat in flower (top) and a field planted with several mutually beneficial cover crops – buckwheat, winter rye, and clover (bottom).

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when the soil is at least 60 degrees F and the soil easily crumbles. Tilling may need to be repeated multiple times. Measures should be taken to minimize soil erosion by wind and water in and around the meadow site.

3. Treat the undesired existing vegetation in the meadow area with non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate (if permitted) or with a DEEP approved EPA minimum risk herbicide. Minimum-risk burndown products may severely damage or kill the plant shoot, often with little damage to the roots of established perennial weeds. Best results occur on juvenile or tender plants, before permanent roots have established. Use of these non-selective, burndown products can also be considered for use in turf areas to knock back vegetation prior to overseeding of an area, taking into account the same limitations. • It is always important to apply herbicides,

whether synthetic or organic, safely and according to manufacturer instructions. Read all pesticide labels prior to use. In the state of CT, on school properties, a commercially licensed pesticide applicator is required to apply these products.

• Once plants have died or vegetation is injured, mow existing vegetation as low as possible. Remove excess vegetation and debris before seeding into the site to encourage good seed to soil contact. If excess vegetation is not removed, dispersed seed can be lodged in debris, rather than reaching the soil.

• Herbicides can be a useful approach on slopes where site preparation is a challenge. 4. Smother existing vegetation with layers of organic materials or black plastic.

• Organic materials can include newspaper (multiple layers thick), cardboard, plywood, or a 6 inch layer of seasoned wood chips. Cover newspaper or cardboard with 2-4 inches of weed free mulch or straw, preferably towards the end of spring. This method works well for a small to medium sized area. It is inexpensive, does not disturb weed seeds, controls erosion, adds organic matter to the soil, and minimizes site disturbance.

• Black plastic can be used in small or medium sized areas (less than a few thousand square feet) to solarize or kill plants. Disposing of the plastic after the solarization process may be problematic.

This non-chemical approach requires advance seasonal planning, as a longer duration of time to completely kill unwanted vegetation is necessary. Best results occur if the cover is applied in late spring and kept in place for at least 3 months. Once the smothered plants are dead, remove the cover used to kill the vegetation. Immediately rake and remove dead vegetation with minimal disturbance to the soil and broadcast or slice seed into the soil. If planting with plugs or container plants, organic materials can be left in place and plants can be placed between or in holes.

OPTIONS FOR WORKING WITH AND AROUND EXISTING VEGETATION To optimize the establishment of the meadow with minimal tilling, minimize the growth of unwanted weeds. 1. Burn surrounding vegetation. Using a propane torch, a flame is quickly and carefully passed over vegetation. This approach is effective with shallow rooted or younger juvenile plants, leaves little residue to rake or remove, and offers minimal disturbance to the site. Burning can be done at any time of year, although this practice should occur when wind is non-existent. Fire safety precautions, including the use of 2 person teams, must be strictly followed. Repeated attempts to remove subsequent re-growth of plants with strong taproots may be necessary. 2. Allow a meadow of existing plant communities to naturally emerge and develop on site. It is possible to allow a meadow of existing plant communities to naturally emerge and develop on

An area that has been prepared with a non-selective herbicide.

8 site, but this method will require a lot of attention and persistence for desired results. To optimize the establishment of the meadow with minimal tilling, minimize the growth of unwanted weeds. Minimal disturbance of the site is crucial to minimize weed encroachment and reduce initial labor and other maintenance costs. Plants can be added or removed as the meadow evolves. Over time, many wildflowers, such as goldenrod, aster, ironweed, Joe Pye weed, and milkweed, will appear on their own if a seed bank of these species exists in the soil. It is important to maintain a population of desired species, remove the most unwanted and aggressive species by mowing once in late winter or early spring, and consistently “edit” the site as needed. During the growing season, it is critical to discard seed heads of unwanted species before seeds mature, remove invasive plants, and add plugs or containers of native meadow plants as time or budget allows. Active, diligent “editing” maintenance may require persistent effort for several years.

PLANTING Meadows can be planted by seed or established plugs. However, it is not recommended to establish a meadow stand by both seed and plugs at the same time, as the management tactics are distinct for each method. Complications often arise from the different management tactics required for juvenile and mature plant establishment. PLANTING BY PLUGS Plugs are typically used in small garden settings of under 1000 feet. Plugs are small plants and, in mass, are more economical to plant than larger container grown plants. Plugs are either started from seed and sown into small greenhouse flats, or are divided, pre-rooted pieces of more mature plants. Plugs offer versatility, as they can be intermingled with larger-sized potted plants for a variation in establishment maturity that provides a realistic look to the stand. A benefit of using plugs and container plants is that the meadow can be designed with more detail compared to a meadow established by seed. Plugs are more expensive, more labor-intensive to install, and require more irrigation during establishment than planting a seed mixture. • In most of the northeast, the best time to establish a

meadow using container plants or plugs is in the spring. In Connecticut, mid to late April (or very early into May) is usually the ideal time to sow plugs. Planting in early spring allows a full growing season for plants to establish, mature, and set seed. It is imperative, particularly if irrigation is limited, that plugs be planted as early in the growing season as possible to establish root growth before the onset of hot summer weather.

• Typically, two or more plugs/ft.2, on 6-8 inch centers, is recommended.3 Planting equipment can be a trowel, bulb planter, dibble (for sandy, loamy soils only), or a soil auger. An auger bit attached to an electric drill can be used for quick and easy planting.

• After planting, mulch the area with a couple of inches of composted leaf mulch, shredded bark, or weed-free straw.

• For at least two weeks, water plugs thoroughly once every few days to supplement rainfall. Plugs and small container plants have limited root systems and need to be watered more frequently than larger plants.

3 Urban and Suburban Meadows: Bringing Meadowscaping to Big and Small Spaces, Catherine Zimmerman, 2010.

A flat of grass plugs.

9 • Plugs also may require the addition of some fertilizer at the time of planting, as many were

grown in a greenhouse under pampered conditions. A starter fertilizer will help minimize transplant shock as the plugs acclimate to the new location.

PLANTING BY SEED The most economical way to establish a meadow for larger, open areas is to plant by seed. Manual seeding is best done on small areas, or on sites where it is difficult to access with equipment. Once seeded, a light layer of mulch or straw can be dispersed over the area to help retain soil moisture and provide some shade for tender emerging seedlings. Mechanical seeding, hydroseeding and terraseeding are best for large areas, of 1/2 acre or more in size. Considerations of planting by seed: ● There is less control of the aesthetic design and precise plant placement. The design depends

on many variables: variation in successful germination, impact of rainfall or irrigation, and the viability and adaptability of the components of the seed mixture to the site. The aesthetic design also will evolve over time as certain species survive and thrive, while others may not.

● Plants established by seed will require a longer duration to germinate, establish, and mature than those planted from plugs. Be aware that each species will require a different length of time to germinate, and some perennial plants may not bloom for two or three years. The stand will not look like a mature meadow right away.

● More frequent maintenance is needed in the first two years of establishment, to control aggressive weeds and to give the desired species space and light to thrive.

● It may be difficult to distinguish young weeds from young meadow seedlings, so correct weed identification is critical before removal of any plant. View pictures of common juvenile weeds to support identification of desired meadow plants consistently during first and second year maintenance.

● Late summer and early fall are recommended planting times for meadow grasses and perennials. Sowing can be done in the spring after soils warm, but there be will an ever-present and constant challenge to reduce grassy weeds.

Water is critical for successful germination and establishment of the stand. Irrigation needs to be available for the germination of all species for the duration of establishment. Each species has a different time requirement for germination and establishment. Water as frequently as needed during the first six to eight weeks to keep the soil surface moist. Irrigate lightly to minimize puddling or any potential runoff from the site, particularly on any uneven, sloped surface. In general, the site needs irrigation to ensure the germination of the desired plants. If irrigation is

unavailable, the population of the stand will be influenced by the amount of rainfall events during establishment. If supplemental irrigation is not available at the meadow site, then late summer or early fall may be a more appropriate time to seed the meadow, to reduce competition from annual grassy weeds. If planting in late summer or early fall, soils should be warm enough to encourage seed germination. Be aware, some desired meadow species are frost sensitive, and need to be established well before the onset of frost. For summer annuals incorporated in a meadow, plants need the appropriate time to establish, produce and mature seed, therefore spring planting is preferable. If the appropriate time for establishment is not available in spring, then a dormant seeding in late fall, after the ground has frozen, may provide another seeding opportunity. Existing vegetation must be mowed and

Tiny seedlings emerge after germination.

10 cleared before the first frost, to help ensure good seed/soil contact of the dormant seeding. Seed mixtures generally have a recommended seeding rate determined by the composition of the species in the seed mixture. However, this seeding rate can be increased if there is a concern that the population stand may be impacted by a late seasonal start or adverse environmental conditions. Seeding Considerations: • Generally, seed at a rate of ¼ lb. pure live seed (PLS) per 1,000 square feet.4 Pure live seed, a

measurement of the actual seed and germination rate, used to determine the correct seeding rate of grasses and flowering perennials, as there is great variation in the purity of many species. Often there is additional chaff and debris with harvested native seeds. This influences the amount of actual seed available in a seed mix.

• Due to the extreme varying size of multiple seeds in a mixture, addition of an inert material (i.e., sawdust, vermiculite, peat moss, or perlite) is recommended to mix and aid in the dispersal of the seed. Nurse grass seeds also aid in dispersal.

• After the seedbed has been properly prepared, lightly rake the soil, and broadcast the seed and its inert carrier. Spread half of the mixture on the soil surface in one direction, and sow the other half of the seed mixture in the opposite direction.

• A roller can be used to firmly set the seeds onto the soil surface of the newly seeded area. • Once seeded, the soil surface can be stabilized with weed-free straw mulch, erosion blankets,

or hydromulch. This will prevent erosion and ensure some shade and protection as seedlings emerge.

• If possible, irrigate to keep the soil surface moist and enhance germination. Because there is a wide variation in the germination times for all seed species in a seed mix, continued irrigation is necessary until the majority of all seeds have germinated. Irrigate early in the morning, 10-15 minutes for 2-3 weeks.

• Late in the fall of the first year (if seeding was done in spring), after the field has been mown, mulch the area with 1” of clean leaf mulch to keep the establishment of winter annuals to a minimum. Refresh the mulch again in the spring to reduce the germination of annual grassy weeds.

Mechanical Seeding: best for large areas, minimum of 1/2 acre in size. Different options are available for mechanical seeding but limitations exist when equipment cannot freely maneuver about the site. • Drill seeders, such as the Truax, are required

to be pulled by a tractor. A furrow is cut into the soil into which seeds are planted. While drill seeding has great success in large expansive areas, it does provide a “uniform” look to the area, because it precisely places seeds in small holes in the soil. It creates minimal site disturbance (tilling the soil is not necessary), limiting weed seed exposure.

• The Brillion is a drop seeder that spreads seed on the soil surface. Although it can be used as a no-till seeder it does usually require tillage of bare soils or areas with minimal vegetation, which brings weed seeds to the soil surface.

• Varying seed sizes of the multiple species used in meadow mixes often requires inert materials to be added at the time of seeding to aid in seed dispersal when using any

4 Urban and Suburban Meadows: Bringing Meadowscaping to Big and Small Spaces, Catherine Zimmerman, 2010.

Truax Seed Drill (Photo by Glenn Dreyer)

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mechanical spreader. Typically, the opening from which seed drops is too large for smaller seeds and the inert material helps keep small seed from quickly settling out of the mixture. In some instances, a small proportion of cool season grass seed used as nurse crops also can be used to aid in seed dispersal using mechanical equipment.

Hydroseeding: best for large areas that exceed one acre in size or on sloped areas of uneven terrain. This economically efficient process disperses material onto a site without additional equipment. Hydroseeding incorporates seed, fertilizer, water, and paper mulch in one combined application. Often, seed dispersal can be improved with the addition of small amounts of cool season grasses or other cereal grasses. Agitation of the tank is critical to make sure seed of varying sizes is accurately dispersed. Terraseeding: used for large areas; incorporates seed, fertilizer and compost in one application process. Additional grass seed can be used to aid in seed dispersal. Common for sites where soils are of extremely poor quality and in need of organic matter to aid in establishment.

MAINTENANCE The first three years of meadow establishment require both patience and management effort. As part of the overall meadow establishment protocol, an effective maintenance plan should be developed before planting and is critical to the successful longevity of a meadow. The most appropriate maintenance approach will depend on the scope of the project, maintenance budget, and method of installation (i.e., by seed or live plants). Annual weeds multiply rapidly in the first year, when meadow plants are small and sparsely populated within the meadow stand. Desirable perennials and grasses develop slowly. Therefore, managed growth of the meadow site is essential. MEADOW MAINTENANCE: ESTABLISHMENT BY SEED A meadow established by seed requires greater maintenance effort during the first two years of establishment than a meadow developed with small plugs or container plants. Maintenance tools may include string trimmers, a hand pruner (for small areas), hand rogueing tools (e.g., hoe), and a walk-behind, rotary, or tractor-mounted mower. A flail-type mower the preferred mower for meadow maintenance, as it can mow above the terminal tips of young desired plants as it shreds the cut material and disperses it gently on top of the vegetation. Attachments can be purchased for most riding lawnmowers that allow mowing at 6” of height if the meadow is of a larger scale and too large for a string trimmer to be efficient. RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE FOR PERENNIAL/GRASS MEADOW, INCLUDING AN ANNUAL NURSE CROP (NO FLOWERING ANNUALS): In the first growing season (in a spring seeding, the first growing season is in the same year; for a fall seeding, the first full growing season starts the following spring): Perennial meadow plants will grow slowly, with an average overall height of 2-6”, depending on the species. Annual weeds will proliferate and grow quickly if given the opportunity. A nurse crop is a quick establishing, clump-forming grass that can be used to reduce weed invasion, hold the seed or young plants in place, and protect the soil from erosion. 1. To avoid disturbing the fragile root systems of the desired and delicate seedlings during

their first year of establishment, resist aggressive pulling or digging of weeds in the first growing season.

Perennial plants such as Joe Pye weed and Bee balm take time to establish, but the eventual reward is worth it.

(Photo by Tom Barry)

12 2. Correctly identify which plants are intended to remain within the meadow and which plants

need to be removed. Know leaf shape of desired juvenile or immature plants and potential problematic weeds.

3. To prevent weeds from growing too tall and outcompeting the desired perennials, mow every 4-6 weeks to a height of 4-6”. Mowing frequency may need to be extended based on speed of establishment and the amount of available rainfall. Mowing should be frequent enough to prevent weeds from growing taller than 12” or from developing seed heads. This mowing practice is critical to ensure that developing perennial plants will receive adequate light during establishment and not be shaded by aggressive annual weeds.

4. Discontinue mowing at the end of the growing season (late October/early November) as plant growth slows.

In the second and subsequent years: 1. Mow meadow vegetation to the ground annually, either

in late winter or early spring, before the next year’s growth begins. If compacted soils and wet field conditions are a concern in early spring, the final seasonal mowing can be done in late fall or early winter. However, a late fall mowing is less preferred than mowing in late winter or early spring as it prematurely removes protective winter habitat and valuable food for wildlife that might reside in the meadow during the winter months. • The plant material should be left in place for a few days

to allow seeds to fall to the ground. It is recommended to remove the plant material, but this often is not practical or cost effective and can be avoided. Using a flail type mower that shreds the plant material to create a mulch is recommended.

• A controlled burning of the site every 4 years may be an option to remove organic material. If grasses are part of the meadow composition, care must be made not to burn the crowns of the plants, or else the grasses may be severely compromised.

2. In the second year, monitor for invasive plants and weeds all season long. Perennial meadow plants continue growth and become more established. During the growing season, prevent the establishment of biennial and perennial weeds. Annual weeds should be mowed or removed before developing flowers and seeds to prevent the dispersal of mature seed. If needed, control weeds with spot herbicide applications (DEEP-approved minimum risk products) or mechanically remove them with a string trimmer. After the second year, monito r the meadow for unwanted or invasive weeds at regular intervals throughout the season.

• Cutting vegetation to the ground is recommended over hand-pulling or digging weeds, to avoid bringing buried weed seeds to the soil surface. Very small weeds can be pulled, providing that they have been identified correctly.

• Some perennial weeds, such as mugwort and bittersweet, are encouraged to produce many new plants from the roots when they are cut at ground level. Once these weeds are established, it is very difficult to pull out all their roots. Instead, cut these weeds at a taller height (of 12-18”) to encourage them to branch out from the original stem. Repeated cuttings will then zap their energy reserves and eventually kill them. Seedlings can be pulled.

3. Avoid mowing the meadow stand during bird nesting season to prevent injury to young nesting ground birds that are living in the meadow area. Cease mowing toward the end of

A developing patch of meadow, with perennials growing slowly between

stabilizing grasses.

13

April and refrain from mowing until late-July. Use of pruners or a string trimmer to address individual weeds during the “nesting” season also will protect valuable wildlife.

RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE FOR PERENNIAL/GRASS MEADOW, INCLUDING FLOWERING ANNUALS: Using annuals as part of the seed mix may be desired, for the quick and satisfying color they provide. If the meadow mix used for establishment contains flowering annuals, weed control may be a challenge in the first year. Frequent mowing as a strategy to control weeds is not feasible because the annuals in the seed mix need to produce a seed stalk and set seed during the first year. Also, the establishment of perennial plants will be impacted, as the quicker growing annuals grow faster and taller, developing a canopy that shades the slower-growing perennials. If annuals are still desired, successful weed control may take more effort. Knowledge of competing weeds and their life cycles will be critical. Weed proliferation will be manageable with minimal disturbance to the soil. 1. Correctly identify which plants are intended to remain in the meadow and which plants

need to be removed. Learn the most common weeds and invasive plants in the area, when to expect germination, and what the juvenile (seedling) leaves look like. Early detection of and action towards eliminating intruding weeds will prevent more difficult and time-consuming work if a weed becomes established.

2. Avoid disrupting the fragile root systems of delicate seedlings and exposing more weeds seeds with soil disturbance. Weeds can be eradicated with pruners, shears, a string trimmer or spot treatments of minimum risk products (or glyphosate, where allowed).

3. Mow meadow vegetation to the ground annually, in late winter or early in spring, before the next year’s growth begins. Ensure that seed from reseeding annuals is dislodged to allow direct seed/soil contact.

4. If annuals are desired as a consistent part of the overall meadow composition, a late fall dormant seeding or spring seeding of the meadow mix is recommended every 1-3 years to reinvigorate and rejuvenate the flower composition.

5. Maintenance after the first year is the same as described above, but will likely require more spot control of weeds.

MEADOW MAINTENANCE: ESTABLISHMENT BY PLUGS/LIVE PLANTS 1. Throughout the first and second seasons, scout and

monitor site for invading weeds and remove any undesirable plants by cutting close to ground level or scratching out small weeds with a dutch hoe. It is recommended that small weeds be clipped at the soil surface, rather than pulled, to minimize soil disturbance. Firm up soil in disturbed sites after pulling or digging weeds.

2. Identification of both desired species and potential weed species is critical, especially if the juvenile leaves differ in shape and size from the mature leaves.

Four severely problematic weeds to eliminate in the meadow: (clockwise from top left) Canada thistle

(Cirsium arvense*), bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis), mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris*), yellow nutsedge

(Cyperus esculentus). Know how to identify these and other common weeds as juveniles to eradicate them

most easily and efficiently. *CT Invasive

14 3. In the first and second years, cut back the previous season’s vegetation to ground height in

late winter or early spring before new growth appears. Mulch with weed-free straw around new growth to prevent weeds.

4. As the meadow matures, a periodic weed inspection and annual mowing in late winter or early spring will prevent woody plants from establishing in the meadow site. Maintenance requirements after the second year are the same as described above for the seeded meadow.

DO MEADOWS CO-EXIST WITH LOCAL ORDINANCES? School grounds managers should local laws before investing time and energy in the development of a meadow. County or town ordinances may restrict the height or type of plants that may be grown. A variance may be required in some towns to alter the landscape and create a meadow. Signs can be used as a teaching tool to educate local residents, school administrators, parents, and students about the benefits of a meadow. The environmental, aesthetic, and health benefits of meadows as wildlife-friendly enhancements will add dimension and an improved emotional quality of life to school landscapes.

MEADOW PLANT LIST

Preferred Growing Conditions: D = DRY SOILS (well-drained sand, gravel, and rocky soils) M = MESIC/MEDIUM SOILS (well-drained loam, silt loam, sandy loam, etc.) W = WET SOILS (poorly drained soils that retain moisture all summer long) Light: Seasonal Characteristics: FS = Full Sun WS = Warm Season grass or sedge PS = Part Sun CS = Cool Season grass or sedge *Plants listed are all native to CT and perennial unless otherwise noted. Flowering Species

Grow Condit. Height Width

Flower Color

Flowering Time Light Attributes

Aster, Calico (Symphyotrichum lateriflorum) D, M 2’ 2’ white

Sept.- October

FS, PS

Synonym Aster lateriflorus. Attracts butterflies, caterpillars, honeybees.

Aster, New England (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) M, W 3-6’ 2-3’

purple- blue

August- Sept. FS

Synonym Aster novae-angliae. Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies and birds. Showy, good cut flowers.

Aster, smooth (Symphyotrichum laeve) D, M 2-4’ 1-2’

violet- blue

Sept.- October

FS, PS

Synonym Aster laevis. Attracts butterflies. Late bloomer; showy flowers.

Bee balm (Monarda didyma) M, W 2-4’ 2-3’ red

July- August

FS, PS

Deer and rabbit resistant. Attracts butterflies, hummingbirds.

Black-eyed/Orange coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida)

D, M, W 2-3’ 2-2.5’

orange,

yellow June-

October FS Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies. Tolerates drought as well as clay soils.

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) D, M 2-3’ 1-2’ yellow

June- Sept. FS

Biennial (short lived perennial). Use for early meadow establishment. Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies and birds. Self-seeds freely.

Blazing star (Liatris spicata) M 2-4’

.75- 1.5’

red- purple

July- August FS

Attracts butterflies, birds. Tolerant of drought and clay soil. Intolerant of wet soils in winter. Slow to establish from seed.

Blazing star, D, M, 2-4’ 2’ purple August- FS Large, dense flower spikes. Attracts butterflies.

15 Northern (Liatris scariosa)

W Sept.

Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) D, M 1-2.5’ 1-1.5’ orange

June- August FS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies. Essential food source for Monarch butterfly caterpillars.

Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) M, W 2-4’ 1-2’

red, white

July- Sept.

FS, PS

Deer and rabbit resistant. Attracts butterflies, hummingbirds. Prefers part shade. Needs constant moisture.

Coneflower, pale purple (Echinacea pallida)

D, M, W 2-3’ 1-1.5’

pale purple June-July

FS, PS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies, bees. Mixes well with grasses. Showy, fragrant, good cut flowers. Self-seeds freely.

Coneflower, yellow (Echinacea paradoxa) D, M 2-3’ 1-1.5’ yellow

June- August FS

Deer resistant. Very drought tolerant. Attracts goldfinch and other birds.

Coreopsis, lanceleaf (Coreopsis lanceolata) D, M 1-2’ 1-1.5’ yellow May-July FS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies, birds, numerous pollinators. Showy flowers. Self-sowing.

Culver’s root (Veronicastrum virginicum) M, W 4-7’ 2-4’

white, blue

May- August FS

Showy flowers attract butterflies. Takes several years to establish.

Goldenrod, showy (Solidago speciosa) D, M 2-3’ 2-3’ yellow

July- Sept. FS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies, numerous pollinators. Does not cause hay fever (as is sometimes mistakenly believed).

Ironweed, New York (Vernonia noveboracensis) M, W 4-6’ 3-4’ purple

August- Sept. FS Deer resistant. Freely self-seeds.

Lupine, wild (Lupinus perennis) D 1-2’ 1-2’ blue May-June

FS, PS

Attracts butterflies, hummingbirds, caterpillars. Pea-like flowers.

Milkweed, common (Asclepias syriaca)

D, M, W 2-3’ .75-1’

white, pink

June- August FS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies. Essential food source for Monarch butterfly caterpillars. Showy, fragrant, flowers. Can spread rapidly by seed or rhizomes. Forms colonies.

Milkweed, swamp (Asclepias incarnata) M, W 4-5’ 2-3’

white, pink

July- August FS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies, hummingbirds. Essential food source for Monarch butterfly caterpillars. Showy, fragrant, flowers. Deep taproots - best left undisturbed once established. Foliage is slow to emerge in spring.

Mountain Mint (Pycnanthemum muticum) M, W 1-3’ 1-3’ pink

July- Sept.

FS, PS

Attracts butterflies and honeybees. Attractive silver-blue foliage. Best flowering in full sun.

Partridge Pea (Chamaecrista fasciculata) D 1-3’ 1-3’ yellow

June- Sept.

FS, PS

Annual. Plant seeds late March to May. Attracts butterflies and birds. Used for erosion control to stabilize banks. Improves soil fertility (fixes nitrogen). Reseeds readily.

Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea) D 1-3’ 1-2’ white

June- October

FS, PS

Button-like flowers. Woolly, silvery foliage. Good dried flower.

Phlox, downy (Phlox pilosa) D, M 1-2’ 1-2’ pink May-July FS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies, hummingbirds. Showy, fragrant, saucer shaped

16

flowers. Grows well from seed. Likes mulch to keep roots cool in summer.

Queen of the Prairie (Filipendula rubra) M, W 6-8’ 3-4’

pale pink

June- August

FS, PS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies, hummingbirds. Fragrant foliage. Showy, fragrant flowers. Intolerant of drought.

Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale) M, W 3-5’ 2-3’ yellow

August- October FS

Deer resistant. Attracts butterflies. Can remove spent flowers to encourage additional bloom.

Spiderwort, Ohio (Tradescantia ohiensis) D, M 2-3’

1.5- 2.5’ blue May-July

FS, PS

Tolerates part shade well but may have fewer blooms. Prefers moist, acidic, sandy soil. Can self-seed and become aggressive in ideal conditions.

Spurge, flowering (Euphorbia corollata) D, M 1-3’ 1-3’ white

June- October FS

Attracts shorebirds, waterfowl. Fragrant flowers. Very adaptable to a wide range of soils; prefers poor, well drained soils.

Sunflower, downy (Helianthus mollis) D 2-4’ 1-3’ yellow

July- Sept. FS

Attracts butterflies, birds. Plants spread by rhizomes and self-seeding to form colonies.

Sunflower, false (Heliopsis helianthoides)

D, M, W 3-6’ 2-4’ yellow

June- August

FS, PS

Attracts hummingbirds, butterflies, birds. Tolerates some light shade but may require support or staking.

Tickseed, large flowered (Coreopsis grandiflora)

D, M, W

1.5- 2.5’ 1-1.5’ yellow

June- August FS

Deer and rabbit resistant. Attracts butterflies, birds. Readily self-sows.

Violet, birdfoot (Viola pedata) D, M .25-.5’

.25-.5’

lilac, purple

March- May

FS, PS

Deer resistant. Attracts birds, butterflies, provides food/shelter for small mammals. Requires good soil drainage.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) D 3’ 2’ white

April-Sept.

FS, PS

Deer resistant. Salt tolerant. Fragrant flowers attract butterflies.

Grass/Sedge Species

Grow Condit. Height Width

Flower Color

Flowering Time Light Attributes

Bluestem, big (Andropogon gerardii) D, M 4-6’ 2-3’

purple- red

Sept.-February FS

Deer resistant. Salt tolerant. Requires soil temperature above 50 degrees for germination. Optimum time to plant is usually early May to late June. Self-seeds. WS.

Bluestem, little (Schizachyrium scoparium) D, M 2-4' 1.5-2'

purple- bronze

August- February FS

Deer resistant. Bronze-orange fall foliage color. WS.

Fescue, hard (Festuca longifolia) D, M 1’ 1’ green -----

FS, PS

Drought tolerant. Does well in shade and on low fertility. Better heat tolerance than other fescues. Clump forming. CS. Not Native to U.S.

Fescue, sheep (Festuca ovina) D, M 1’ 1’ green -----

FS, PS

Drought tolerant. Does well in shade and on low fertility. CS. Not Native to U.S.

Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans) D, M 3-5’ 1-2’

brown- yellow

Sept.-February FS

Deer resistant. Salt tolerant. Attracts birds, butterflies. Attractive blue-green foliage. Orange-yellow fall color. WS.

Lovegrass, purple (Eragrostis spectabilis) D, M 1-2’ 1-2’

purple- red

July- August FS

Performs best in sandy or gravelly loam in hot, dry locations. WS.

Pink muhly grass D, M 2-3’ 2-3’ pink, Sept.- FS, Deer resistant. Clump forming. WS.

17 (Muhlenbergia capillaris)

red Nov. PS

Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) D, M 2-3’ 2-3’

pink, brown

August- October FS

Deer resistant. Good groundcover. Adds winter interest. Slow to establish. Can be sown by seed but does not freely self-seed. WS.

Rye, Canada wild (Elymus canadensis)

D, M, W 2’-5’ 2’-3’ green

July- Sept. FS Attracts birds. Drought tolerant. Self-seeds. CS.

Sedge, awl (Carex stipata) M, W 1.5-3’ 2’

green, golden -----

FS, PS

Deer resistant. Beneficial to caterpillars of butterflies, grasshoppers, birds, ducks. Sprawling habit; spiky seed heads. WS.

Sedge, fringed (Carex crinita) M, W 1-3’ 1-2’ green May-June

FS, PS Deer resistant. Attracts birds. CS.

Sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula) D, M

1.5-2.5’ 1.5-2’

purpl-ish

July- August FS

Attracts birds. Good ground cover. Good fall color. Also may be grown as a turf grass. WS.

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) M, W 3-6’ 2-3’ red

July- February

FS, PS

Attracts birds, butterflies. Use with caution, as it is very aggressive and may compete too heavily with other meadow plants. Some cultivars are less competitive. WS.

Nurse Grass Species

Grow Condit. Height Width

Flower Color

Flowering Time Light Attributes

Oats, annual (Avena sativa) D, M 1-4’ 1-4’

green- blue summer FS Drought tolerant. CS. Not Native to U.S. Annual.

Ryegrass, cereal (Secale cereale) D, M 6’ 6” green May-July FS

Very hardy, can be seeded later into fall than other cover crops. Grows well in sandy, infertile or acidic soil. Pair with a winter annual legume to offset nitrogen intake. Excellent cover crop. Do not allow to set seed (seeds ripen Aug-Sept). CS. Not Native to U.S. Annual.

Wheat, winter (Triticum aestivum) D, M 5’ 2’ green June-July FS

Widely used for temporary pasture crop. Do not allow to set seed (seeds ripen Aug-Sept). CS. Not Native to U.S. Annual.

Annuals and Perennials to Avoid Using: Notes:

Goldenrod, Canada (Solidago canadensis) Native but too aggressive.

Goldenrod, rough-stemmed (Solidago rugosa) Native but too aggressive.

Forget-Me-Not (Myosotis scorpioides) Not native, invasive In some parts of the country.

Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota) Not native, too aggressive.

Suggested Readings:

● Daniels, Stevie. The Wild Lawn Handbook: Alternatives to the Traditional Front Lawn. New York: Macmillan, 1995.

● Hadden, Evelyn J. Shrink Your Lawn. Plymouth, Minn.: Less Lawn Press, 2008. ● Tallamy, Douglas W. Bringing Nature Home: How You Can Sustain Wildlife with Native Plants. 2nd

ed. Portland, Ore.: Timber Press, 2009. ● Tufts, Craig, and Peter Loewer. The National Wildlife Federation’s Guide to Gardening for Wildlife.

Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press, 1995.

18

Sources of Wildflowers and Grasses: SEED: American Meadows, (877) 309-7333; www.americanmeadows.com Colonial Seed, 28 School St., East Granby, CT 06026; (413) 355-0200; http://colonialseed.com; mark@colonialseed.com Ernst Seeds, 8884 Mercer Pike, Meadville, PA 16335; (800) 873-3321 (814) 336-2404; www.ernstseed.com; sales@ernstseed.com Harts Seed, 304 Main Street, Wethersfield, CT 06109; 1-800-326-HART Wethersfield, CT, hartseed.com New England Wetland Plants, 820 West Street, Amherst, MA 01002; (413) 548-8000; http://newp.com; info@newp.com (sells seed and plants) Site One Landscape Supply, www.siteone.com Valley Green, Inc., 642 S. Summer Street, Holyoke, MA 01040 (Corporate Headquarters) (413) 533-0726; valleygreenusa.com PLANTS - retail: Broken Arrow Nursery, 13 Broken Arrow Road, Hamden, CT 06518; (203) 288-1026; www.brokenarrownursery.com; info@brokenarrownursery.com Natureworks, 518 Forest Road, Northford, CT 06472, (203) 484-2748; http://naturework.com Earth Tones Native Plant Nursery, 212 Grassy Hill Rd, Woodbury, CT; (203) 263-6626; www.earthtonesnatives.com Perennial Harmony Garden Center, 144 Boston Post Road, East Lyme, CT 06333; (860) 440-3653; www.perennialharmony.com; perennialharmony@msn.com PLANTS - wholesale: North Creek Nurseries, 388 North Creek Road, Landenberg, PA 19350, (610) 255-0100; www.northcreeknurseries.com; info@northcreeknurseries.com Prides Corner Farms, 122 Waterman Rd, Lebanon, CT 06249; (800) 437-5168; www.pridescorner.com

Glossary of Terms Used in this Document: Annual: a plant with a one year life cycle: it grows from seed, blooms, produces seed, and dies within one growing season. Annuals can be classified as summer or winter annuals based on when they germinate and reproduce. Biennial: a plant that requires two years to complete its life cycle to germinate, bloom, produce seed, and die. Cool Season Grasses: turfgrass species best adapted to growth during spring and fall (cool, moist periods of the year), optimally when daytime air temperatures are between 60-75 degrees F and soil temperatures are between 50-65 degrees F. Crown: a plant’s crown is where the plant’s stems meets the roots. Dormant Seeding: seeding of desired mixture in late fall or early winter, after ground is frozen or soil temperatures are low enough to prevent seed germination. Seeds germinate in spring when conditions are favorable. Invasive plant: a non-native plant whose introduction to an ecosystem causes economic or environmental harm to native landscapes. Nurse crop: A nurse crop is typically a non-competitive, clump-forming grass, incorporated as part of the meadow that helps to reduce weed invasion and reduces soil erosion. Perennial: a plant with a life cycle that is two or more years. The plant resumes growth each year and continues to grow until it reaches maturity. Perennials typically bloom for one to three weeks of the year. Flowering may not occur until the second year. pH: a measure of acidity and alkalinity, measured on a scale of 1-14: 7 represents neutrality, lower numbers indicate increasing acidity and higher numbers increasing alkalinity. Pure Live Seed: Purity is the % of actual seed in the lot. Germination is the % of actual seed that will germinate. PLS = Purity % X Germination % Example: Purity = 90 % (Meaning 90 percent of the weight being purchased is actual seed.) Warm Season Grasses: grasses that grow best when temperatures are between 75-90°F. Most of their growth occurs in the summer.

19 Bibliography "Convert Some Lawn into Meadow or Prairie, Expert Advises | Penn State University." Web.

http://news.psu.edu/story/293723/2013/11/01/campus-life/convert-some-lawn-meadow-or-prairie-expert-advises

"Meadows and Prairies: Wildlife-Friendly Alternatives to Lawn (Wildlife Outreach Center)." Wildlife Outreach Center (Penn State Extension). Web. http://extension.psu.edu/natural-resources/wildlife/landscaping-for-wildlife/pa-wildlife-5

Tallamy, Douglas W. Bringing Nature Home: How Native Plants Sustain Wildlife in Our Gardens. Portland, OR: Timber, 2007. Print.

Zimmerman, Catherine B. Urban & Suburban Meadows: Bringing Meadowscaping to Big and Small Spaces. Silver Spring, MD: Matrix Media, 2010. Print.

Pennsylvania Environmental Council: http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/cs/groups/public/documents/document/dcnr_20028672.pdf

“Wildflower Meadows: Let’s Get Real”, Larry Weaner Landscape Associates. http://lweanerassociates.com/?p=1203

“Successful Wildflower Meadows”, University of Vermont Extension. http://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/pubs/oh84mead.htm

http://nativeplantwildlifegarden.com/meadow-lawns/ http://www.conngardener.com/findingnatives.html http://wildones.org/download/wantnomow/wantnomow.html http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/Gardennotes/564.html http://wildseed.co.uk/page/management-of-meadows-and-grassland https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=446 http://www.wildflower.org/howto/show.php?id=5 http://csuturf.colostate.edu/pdffiles/Master%20Gardener/Fine%20Fescues%20for%20Lawns.pdf Annual Ryegrass Info: http://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/pg_sece.pdf http://www.mccc.msu.edu/documents/managingccprof/ManagingCoverCropsProfitably_rye.pdf https://hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/afcm/rye.html Authors: Vickie Wallace and Alyssa Siegel-Miles, UConn Extension Updated March 2017 For further questions, please contact: Victoria H. Wallace, Sustainable Turf & Landscape Educator UConn Extension 562 New London Turnpike, Norwich, CT 06360 860-885-2826 victoria.wallace@uconn.edu ipm.uconn.edu

ipm.uconn.edu

The information in this document is for educational purposes only. The recommendations contained are based on the best available knowledge at the time of publication. Any reference to commercial products, trade or brand names is for information only, and no endorsement or approval is intended. UConn Extension does not guarantee or warrant the standard of any product referenced or imply approval of the product to the exclusion of others which also may be available. The University of Connecticut, UConn Extension, College of Agriculture, Health and Natural Resources is an equal opportunity program provider and employer. © UConn Extension. All rights reserved