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Welcome to Fragrance 101
March 13, 2017
8:30 – 9:00 am Continental Breakfast
9:00 am Welcome & Introductions
Morning Session Introduction to Fragrance
Essential Oils
Natural & Synthetic Aroma Chemicals
Fragrance Formulation & Stability
12:00 – 1:00 pm Lunch
Afternoon Session Describing Fragrance Odors
Fragrance Pricing
Fragrance Regulation & Safety
Deriving Fragrance Trends
3:00 pm Poster Sessions
Hors d'oeuvres & Refreshments
“The sense of smell is probably the very first sense to
evolve in a living creature. Back in the early days of
evolution when we began as single-celled creatures,
our sense of "smell" told us what was safe to eat. All
living creatures have a sense to detect chemicals in
their immediate environment.”
– Dr. Karl Kruszelnicki, ABC Science
Return to Agenda
“Even after 25 years I have
the chance to learn
something new everyday.”
Jim PowellR&D Director / Sr. Perfumer
Cara RogersPerfumer
John LittlePerfumer
Introduction to Fragrance
Return to Agenda
Steve Schuh
Sr. Director of Perfumery
“Perhaps the single most important element in mastering technique
is experience. Once you have the fundamentals, acquiring the
experience is a matter of time.”— Greg LeMond
“There are three kinds of men: the ones that learn by readin’, the few
who learn by observation, and the rest of them have to pee on the
electric fence for themselves.”― Will Rogers
• Definitions / Brief History*
• Composition
• Fragrance Families
• Fragrance Development Process
• Balancing Act
Basic Perfumery
*Table Top: “Scents Through Time”
• Latin per fumum means “smoke through”
• Merriam - Webster
a: the scent of something sweet-smelling
b: a substance that emits a pleasant odor
• Fragrance Industry
combination of aromatic materials, natural and/or
synthetic, creatively blended using art and science to
deliver a predetermined desired benefit to a product
and elicit a positive response from consumers.
Definition of Perfume
Fragrance Materials
• Essential Oils
• Aroma Chemicals
Composition
Perfumer
• Fragrance
• Art
• Notes
• Accords
• Balance
• Harmony
Composer
• Music
• Art
• Notes
• Chords
• Balance
• Harmony
Olfactory Triangle
Top: Amyl Acetate
Mid: Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Base: Patchouli Oil
• Volatility Based on Molecular Weight
• Longevity / Substantive / Retentive
Perfumery Notes
Top
Mid
Base
Classified by Common Character
• FRUITY (Amyl Acetate)
• FLORAL (Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol)
• WOODY (Patchouli)
• CITRUS
• SPICE
• HERBAL
Fragrance Families
• Concept/Project/Brief
• What Does That Smell Like?
• Idea Generation
• Formulation
• Smell
• Test
• Modify
• Submit
Fragrance Development Process
• Time
Multiple Trials for Creativity
• Cost
Jasmine Oil – $1,820/LB
Jasmine 50 – $4.20/LB
• Quality
L’Eau de Toilette
Water of the Toilet
The Balancing Act
Return to Agenda
Questions?
Essential Oils
Cara Rogers
Perfumer
Return to Agenda
What are Essential Oils?
• Essential oils are highly concentrated,
volatile oils extracted from plant material
that possess the odor and characteristic
properties of that plant.
• An oil is “essential” in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent,
or essence, of the plant. This scent may serve as a protective or
attractive “cloud”.
• In the fragrance industry, essential oils are used in fragrances
that go into cosmetics, soaps, detergents and perfumes.
GC of Bergamot Oil
Complexity of an Essential Oil
Every Bergamot is DIFFERENT!
• The use of essential oils dates back to 4500 B.C.
• Ancient Egyptians among first to use essential oils in medical practices and religious ceremonies.
– Cedarwood and Myrrh in the embalming process
– Traces of oils have been found in tombs today
• Over 150 references to essential oils in the Bible.
– Old Testament: Moses was given a recipe for a holy anointing oil, which included Myrrh, Cinnamon, and Cassia
– New Testament: The wise men brought Frankincense and Myrrh as a gift to Jesus
• Essential oils reintroduced to modern medicine during the late 19th and early 20th centuries to balance mood, lift spirits, and dispel negative emotions.
History of Essential Oils
Where do Essential Oils come from?
Berries Seeds Bark Wood Rhizome Leaves Resin Flowers Peel
Juniper Cumin
AlmondAniseNutmeg
Cassia
Cinnamon
Camphor
Cedar
Ginger Basil
Bay CinnamonEucalyptusThymeRosemarySpearmint
Frankincense
Myrrh
Geranium
YlangLavender
Lemon
Lime Orange
Petitgrain
Neroli
Bitter Orange
Bitter Orange Tree
Extraction Methods Steam Distillation
Most common method for essential oil extraction
1. Water is heated to produce steam
2. Steam softens/ruptures plant cells, and carries volatile compounds to condenser
3. Steam/EO flows through a condenser, cools and changes back to liquid state
4. Essential oil collects on surface
5. Hydrosol or plant water essence or floral water collects on the bottom.
• Rose water and lemon balm are popular
Sensitive
Extraction Methods Fractional Distillation
Ylang fractionally distilled
to produce four grades
Products of Steam Distillation
Juniper Berry Basil
Chamomile
CypressCedarleaf
Extraction Methods Expression (Cold Pressed)
• Used to produce most citrus oils
• Pressure applied to peel to break open oil glands under surface
• Takes place at room temperature
– Citrus oils are cold pressed to preserve delicate structure
• Due to large quantity of oil in citrus peels and the low cost of
growing them, citrus essential oils tend to be cheaper
• Before distillation, expression was used to produce essential oils
Extraction Methods Solvent Extraction
Typically used when a plant/flower is too fragile to undergo steam
distillation (Jasmine, Tuberose, Neroli, Rose).
1. Organic solvent is used to wash plant material
2. Solvent dissolves extractable material, pulling out all lipophilic material
3. Solution is filtered and undergoes low pressure distillation to recover solvent
and concrete separately
– Concretes: Mix of essential oil, waxes, resins and oil soluble plant material
4. Concrete is washed with ethanol to separate aromatic molecules from
waxy material
5. When the alcohol evaporates, left with the absolute
PROS CONS
• Relatively fast
• Inexpensive
• Fragile components retained
• Produces a product
with traces of solvent
Extraction Methods Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE)
• Follows same method as solvent extraction,
with different solvent (typically CO2 ).
– Non toxic
– Non combustible
– Odorless
• Supercritical fluid can pass through solids like
a gas, and dissolve materials like a liquid.
– Penetrate and extract from micro-poroussubstrates (gas-like diffusion properties)
• Advantages to SFE
– Product is solvent free
– Solvent is recyclable
– Extracts more compounds for better product
• Ginger SFE vs. Ginger Distilled
Extraction Methods Enfleurage
• Developed by ancient Egyptians
• One of the earliest forms of plant extractions
• Form of solvent extraction using animal or plant fats
• Glass trays are covered in an animal or plant fat
• Flowers are placed on trays and left for days or weeks
and replenished several times
• Fat absorbs essential oil and washed with alcohol
• Alcohol evaporates off and leaves essential oil
• Yields weaker product, as plant/animal fat does not pull
essential oils as well as solvents
• Fragile components are unharmed
Enfleurage
• Aromatherapy: The art and science
of utilizing essential oils to balance,
harmonize and promote the health
of the body, mind and spirit.
• History of Aromatherapy
– Credited to the French chemist Rene-Maurice Gattefosse in the early 1900’s
– Gattefosse was miraculously cured after he treated a burn wound with lavender oil
– Coined the term "aromatherapie" in 1928 to imply the therapeutic use of aromatic substances (essential oils)
Aromatherapy
Essential Oil Claims
Essential Oil Benefit
Peppermint Relieves headaches and muscle aches
EucalyptusTreats respiratory problems, boosts immune system, relieves muscle
tension
Ylang I Relaxes and eases anxiety, antidepressant
Geranium Balances hormones in women, balances skin, relaxes and uplifts
Lavender Relaxes, treats wounds and acne
Lemon Uplifts and relaxes, treats wounds and infections, repels insects
Clary Sage Natural pain killer, treats muscle aches, helps with insomnia
Tea Tree Treats fungal infections, boosts immune system
Chamomile Relaxes, helps with sleeplessness and anxiety
Rosemary Helps mental stimulation, immune system and digestive system
Why use Essential Oils?
• They are unique
– Nuances cannot be achieved with synthetic aroma chemicals
– Geranium Recon vs Geranium Egyptian oil
• They add distinctiveness to fragrances
– Clary Sage Tea
– Ginger Fresh Citrus
– Opoponax Sweetness, Caramel
– Elemi Sparkle, Zest
– Davana Fig, Raisin
– Cardamom Fizzy, Effervescence
Cost of Essential Oils (and Quality)
Dependent on…
• Growing conditions
• Crop availability (weather, demand, politics)
• Essential oil content and yield
Eucalyptus– 30 lbs. leaves yield 1 lb. of oil ($10.65/lb.)
Ylang #1– 50 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($156/lb.)
Jasmine – 1000 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($2,350/lb.)
Rose – 3000 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($6,500/lb.)
• Harvest (when and how)
• Method of extraction
Variability Among Essential Oils
• What’s in a name?
– Different species have different odor profiles
• Location, location, location.
– A plant grown in one area may produce an EO that smells
different than the same plant grown in a different location.
• Seasons change.
– This year a crop may produce an EO with more of one or
two specific aroma compounds than the previous year.
Misconceptions
• Essential oil blends are safer than synthetic fragrances.
• Consumers hear the word natural or essential oil and think
safe/added benefits.
Cinnamon Bark
Cinnamic Aldehyde
IFRA, EU Allergen
Eugenol IFRA, EU Allergen
Linalool IFRA, EU Allergen
d-Limonene IFRA, EU Allergen
Benzyl
Benzoate
IFRA, EU Allergen
Cinnamic Alcohol
IFRA, EU Allergen
Coumarin IFRA, EU Allergen
Geraniol IFRA, EU Allergen
Geranium (Egyptian)
Linalool IFRA, EU Allergen
Citral IFRA, EU Allergen
Citronellol IFRA, EU Allergen
Geraniol IFRA, EU Allergen
d-Limonene IFRA, EU Allergen
Return to Agenda
Questions?
Natural & Synthetic
Aroma Chemicals
John Little
Perfumer
Return to Agenda
• Definition of Aroma Chemicals
• Types of Aroma Chemicals
• Grouping of Aroma Chemicals
• Comparing Natural vs. Synthetic Aroma Chemicals
• Natural Licensing Standards
• Natural vs. Synthetic Fragrances
Aroma Chemicals 101
Aroma chemicals are an important
group of organic molecules used as
ingredients in flavors and fragrances.
Types of Aroma Chemicals:
• Natural
• Natural Identical
• Artificial/Synthetic
Aroma Chemicals 101
Natural
• Single Substances derived directly
from vegetable or animal product
by physical process:
– Distillation
– Fermentation
• Challenge: output is relatively low
and the consistency/quality can
be affected by weather and crop
variations.
• Chemically isolated from
aromatic raw materials or
produced through synthesis.
• Chemically identical to the original natural product.
• Major benefit is that large
quantities are produced to
meet demand.
Natural Identical
• Created by physical or
synthetic processes in a
laboratory.
• Convenient availability
and lower cost.
Only in Mexico’s flea market
can you find NATURAL MUSK
incense for $1 a pack.
Artificial/synthetic
Group Example of Aroma Chemical Sensory Notes
AcidsButyric Acid
Pentanoic Acid
Buttery, fatty
Cheesy
AldehydicAldehyde C-7
Aldehyde C-10
Pumpkin, green, orange
Citrus, orange, peely, waxy
AnimalicIndole
Phenyl Acetic Acid
Moth ball, animalic
Honey, animalic
Camphoraceous Isoborneol Camphor, pine needle-like
CitrusCitral
Citronellyl Nitrile
Lemon
Lemon, green, herbal
Earthy Iso Butyl Quinoline Earthy, mossy, tobacco
EstersEthyl Acetate
Amyl Acetate
Grape
Banana, pear
FloralPhenyl Ethyl Alcohol
Lilial
Rose
Lily
Greencis-3-Hexenol
Liffarome
Green, grassy, leafy
Watery, fruity, pear
Lactonesγ-Decalactone
Aldehyde C-18
Coconut, fruit, peach
Coconut, lactonic
SpicyEugenol
Cinnamic Aldehyde
Clove
Cinnamon
SulfurousDimethyl Sulfide
Methylmercaptan
Onion, garlic
Sulfury, cabbage
Terpenoids d-Limonene Citrus, orange, pine
WoodyCedrol
α- Ionone
Cedar, saw dust
Floral, violet, berry
There are approximately 3000 synthetic materials in the market today.
There are approximately 500 naturally derived chemicals that are commercially viable.
This table shows how aroma chemicals can be grouped in terms of sensory notes.
Amyl Acetate
Grouping of Aroma Chemicals
Synthetic Price/LB
Aldehyde C-18 $10.90
Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde $7.55
Allyl Caproate $8.00
Allyl Heptoate $7.65
Amyl Salicylate $6.70
Benzyl Acetate $5.30
Benzyl Alcohol $5.80
Cis-3-Hexenol $23.55
Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate $30.15
Heliotropin $17.85
Maltol $13.30
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol $6.80
Vanillin $13.50
Natural Price/LB
Aldehyde c-18 $284.05
Amyl Cinnamic
Aldehyde$110.80
Allyl Caproate $211.45
Allyl Heptoate $138.00
Amyl Salicylate $124.40
Benzyl Acetate $78.15
Benzyl Alcohol $69.95
Cis-3-Hexenol $320.30
Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate $298.25
Heliotropin $124.40
Maltol $22.05
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol $467.30
Vanillin $32.95
Natural aroma chemicals are generally more expensive than their synthetic
counterparts due to the processes involved in their production.
Pricing: Natural v$. Synthetic
Natural vs. Synthetic
• Depends on the process from which it is derived
– Naturals from plants and animals
– Synthetics processes in the lab
• Availability
– Naturals generally have very low output
– Synthetics are widely available
• Product
– Quality and consistency highly affected by nature
– Synthetics are more stable and consistent
• Pricing – Naturals always more expensive than synthetics
Natural & Organic Certification Agency Standards
Ecocert
Ecocert was the very first certification company to
develop standards for natural and organic
cosmetics.
• It imposes a minimum of 95% of the total
ingredients to come from natural origin.
• For natural and organic cosmetic label, a
minimum of 95% of all plant-based ingredients
in the formula and a minimum of 10% of all
ingredients by weight must come from organic
farming.
• For natural cosmetic label, a minimum of 50%
of all plant-based ingredients in the formula
and a minimum of 5% of all ingredients by
weight must come from organic farming.
Natural Product Association (NPA)
The Natural Product Association (NPA) is the
most widely used natural certification
program for personal care products.
• Products must be made up of only natural
ingredients.
• For each ingredient, the substance must be
listed as “generally recognized as safe” (GRAS)
by the FDA when used in accordance with
good manufacturing practices (GMP)
• Fragrances must be 100% natural.
Challenges Converting Synthetic to Natural Fragrances
• There are no naturally derived amber and musk materials
• There are no naturally derived lily and muguet materials
• Not all synthetic aroma chemicals have a natural equivalent
• There are no fruit essential oils
• The end product will most likely not have an identical odor
character as the target
• Expect higher prices…
No Mango Essential Oil…
Questions?
Return to Agenda
Fragrance Formulation & Stability
Jim Powell
R&D Director / Sr. Perfumer
Return to Agenda
Oxidation/Reduction
Oxidation of an organic molecule usually corresponds to decreasing its hydrogen content or to increasing its oxygen content.
RCH3 <-> RCH2OH <-> RCHO <-> RCOOH
Alkane Alcohol Aldehyde Acid
Reduction of an organic molecule usually corresponds to increasing its hydrogen content or to decreasing its oxygen content.
RCOOH <-> RCHO <-> RCH2OH <-> RCH3
Acid Aldehyde Alcohol Alkane
Oxidation is the preferred direction of reaction
Antioxidants
a-TocopherolBHT
BHA
Free Radicals
A free radical is an atom, molecule, or ion that has unpaired valence electrons or
an open electron shell and therefore may be seen as having one or more
“dangling” covalent bonds.
• Initiation reactions are those that result in a net increase in the number of free
radicals. They may involve the formation of free radicals from stable species
as in the reaction shown above or they may involve reactions of free radicals
with stable species to form more free radicals.
• Propagation reactions are those reactions involving free radicals in which the
total number of free radicals remains the same.
• Termination reactions are those reactions resulting in a net decrease in the
number of free radicals. Typically two free radicals combine to form a more stable species, for example: 2Cl·→ Cl2
Why amber bottles?
Light – UV (UV Absorbers)
Ultraviolet (UV) light is
electromagnetic radiation with a
wavelength shorter than that of
visible light, but longer than X-rays.
It is so-named because the
spectrum consists of
electromagnetic waves with
frequencies higher than those that
humans identify as the color violet
Benzophenone 1
Benzophenone 3
Unfragranced No UV Absorber With UV Absorber
Discoloration
Schiff’s Bases
Amine + Aldehyde
RCNH2 + OCR’ <-> RCNCR’ + H2O
Hydroxycitronellal Methyl Anthranilate
Aurantiol
+ = +
Water
H2O
What is a phenol?
• Class of chemicals containing an –OH functional group directly
bonded to a phenyl ring
Phenols, Fragrance and Stability
• Phenols play a key role in certain fragrance types
– Vanilla : Vanillin
– Sugar : Ethyl Maltol
– Spice : Eugenol
• Phenols readily react with charged metals such as copper,
magnesium, and iron
• Certain products are more likely to have these metals in the
base
Metal Complexes
Metallocene
EDTA
Vanillin
Iron: Red/Brown
Copper: Green/Blue
Temperature
• Temperature can be simulated in the
lab to predict the compatibility of
fragrances in applications.
• Reaction rate doubles for every 10oC
• Assuming the temperature is 25oC, one
year at room temperature would
correspond to:
– Three months at 45oC
– One month at 50oC
– This can be misleading, as reactions can
occur at 50oC that would not happen at
room temperature
Materials vs. pH
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
4500
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
Materials vs. pH
Number of Materials
• The pH directly influences
product stability.
• The addition of fragrance may
alter the pH of the final
formulation, or in worst cases,
disrupt the product.
• Unwanted reactions can occur
when introduced to acidic or
basic conditions, as the formula
will become less stable.
• An extreme product pH limits
fragrance ingredients that can
be used.
Issues in Product Categories
Personal Care
• Oxidation
• Temperature
• UV
• Discoloration
• Solubility
Air Fresheners
• Oxidation
• UV
• Metals
Candles
• Oxidation
• Temperature
• UV
• Discoloration
• Solubility
Industrial
• Oxidation
• Temperature
• UV
• Discoloration
• Solubility
Chelating Agents
• Chelating agents neutralize harmful metal ions found in water-based
formulations and processes.
• Protect against metal-catalyzed reactions that cause:
– product spoilage
– Discoloration
– Rancidity
– off-flavors/odors
• Improve efficacy of preservatives and antioxidants
• Play a crucial role in stability of personal care products
• Examples: – Disodium EDTA
– Tetrasodium EDTA
– Versene,Ammonium citrate dibasic
Neutralizers
• Chemicals that change the pH of a system to be closer
to neutral (pH of 7).
• Allow for optimum pH range the product to be effective.
• Many thickeners or preservatives rely on pH for optimum
performance.
Examples:– Triethanolamine (TEA),
– Sodium hydroxide (NaOH),
– Citric acid
– Glucono Delta lactone( GRAS)
– Lactic acid
– Aminomethyl propanol (AMP)-buffering agent
– Suttocide A- carbomer neutralizer
Product base formulation
• New product development
• Product reformulation/enhancement
– Stability of the finished product
– Microbiology
– Safety
– Regulatory
– New material integration
– Processing optimization
• Goals
– Cost effective
– Stable
– Safe for the consumers
– Conforming to regulatory inputs
– Marketable outputs (finished product)
Products: Conception to Consumer
Exploration– The process of creating and shaping product ideas.
– End goal: create product concepts that score high in consumer research testing
– R&D, Marketing, Production, Sales
Development– The process of turning ideas into functional prototypes
– Packaging developed or prototype testing
– Marketing refines their concept → appealing presentation to consumers
– R&D, Marketing
Commercialization– The process of turning prototypes into finished products
– Product performance and safety testing
– Order Raw materials and packaging, create dossiers for markets
– R&D assists scale up operations, answers consumers questions
– Production, R&D, Sales
Performance Parameters
• pH = -log10 (aH+)
pH <7 Acidic; pH >7 Basic
Safety and Consistency product= f(pH)
• Viscosity(cps)
Measure of resistance to stress
Thickness of liquid
• Rheometry
Studies the flow of liquids—Quantitative and Qualitative relationships
between deformations and stresses.
• Specific Gravity/Density (g/cm³)
• Refractive index
• Flash point(F)
• Determination of the active ingredients(%)
Analytical instruments (GC, HPLC, MS, FTIR), titrations
Stability Testing
• Ensures that a new or modified product meets the intended
physical, chemical and microbiological quality standards, as
well as functionality and aesthetics when stored under
appropriate conditions.
• Parameters to be monitored
– Integrity of the finished product
– Color, odor and appearance
– Weight changes in the container
– pH
– Viscosity
– Microbial tests
– Analytical data should be consistent.
• Methods– Accelerated conditions (heat and UV chambers)
– Temperature extremes (freeze - thaw)
The Formulation Ingredients
• Functional raw materials
– The ingredients that make personal
care/cosmetics products work
– Surfactants
– Active ingredients
• Aesthetic Raw Materials
– Added to simply modify the
aesthetics of the formula
– Fragrance
Surfactants
• Surface Active Agents
• Compounds that lower surface tension between two liquids, or that
between a liquid and solid.
• Molecularly composed of two parts:
– hydrophilic (water loving) "head“
– hydrophobic (water fearing) “tail“
• Variants:– Detergents (SLES, SLS, ALS, DLS, plantapon, gluco-tain clear)
– Emulsifiers (Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, polysorbate, glycerin)
– Wetting agents (anionic, cationic, amphoteric)
– Foaming Agents (Betaines, SLES combinations)
– Dispersants (Polysorbates)
Surfactants as:
Detergents
• Surfactants added to water to act
as detergents
• Hydrophobic tails will be
surrounding the oil droplets
• Hydrophilic heads are attracted to
the water phase
• Allows water to briefly mix with oil
• Physical mechanism required to
remove residue
Thickening Agents
• Increase the viscosity of a solution or
liquid/solid mixture.
• Improved suspension strenghtens
product stability.
• Viscosity modifiers depend on:
– concentration and type of surfactants
– ratio of surfactants, T, pH,charge density
OILdroplet
Emulsions
• An emulsion (Latin word=“milk”) is a mixture of two/more liquids that are stabilized against separation, by incorporating the emulsifier.
• Surfactants act as emulsifiers
• The micelles = the small oil phase droplets covered by the emulsifier molecules.
• The emulsions may be:– water-in-oil(w/o)
– oil-in-water(o/w)
• Compatibility=f(polarity of oils)• HLB scale
– Water-oil balance – determines how to choose the best emulsifiers.
– Indicates the solubility of surfactant.
The Micelle
Active ingredients
• Materials defined as biologically active;
have interaction with or effect on any cell tissue in the human body
• Dosage dependant and classified as OTC drugs
• Regulated by Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act
• Must be listed first on the ingredient label
• Examples
– Sunscreens (benzophenone, octocrylene, avobenzone, homosalate)
– Acne treatment (salicylic acid, zinc oxide, cetrimonium bromide)
– Skin bleaching (Hydroquinone, Kojic acid, AHA, niacinamide, glutathione, Vitamin C)
– Dandruff treatment (zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole)
– Antiseptics (alcohols, benzalkonium chloride, cetrimide, triclosan)
– Antiperspirants (Al chlorohydrate, Al-Zr tetrachlorohydrate gly, methenamine)
– Antimicrobials (Triclosan, trichloroxylenol, trichlorocarbanilide)
Fragrances and their solubility
• Modern fragrances are complex formulated products, containing blends of synthetically derived aroma compounds, essential oils with auxiliary materials and solvents.
• Play large role in marketability and the appeal of product
• Generally taken as a single component in a formula, when in fact the fragrance can rich well over 100 components.
• The fragrances could possibly disrupt the effectiveness of emulsion andsurfactant base, generating:
-discolorations in emulsions
-viscosity variations of surfactants
• Fragrance solubility depends on:
- the polarity of their components
- the solvent polarity
- best solvent=f( finished product components)
Primary Fragrance Solvents
• Dipropylene Glycol– Polar solvent for hydrophilic bases
– PC products, industrial/sanitation, air fresheners
• Benzyl Benzoate– Non-polar solvent for lipophilic
bases
– Candles, lotion, PC products
– Cost effective
– On EU Allergen list
• Dioctyl Adipate– Candles
– Higher cost than BB
– Low density
– Compatible with light paraffin waxes
• Diethyl Phthalate– Non-polar solvent for lipophilic
bases
– Candles, industrial products
– High density
– Biodegradations
• Isopropyl Myristate– Compatible with most end products
– Candles, PC products
– No regulatory issues
– Expensive
Secondary Fragrance Solvents
• Ethanol– Fine fragrances, air care products
– Good all-purpose solvent
– Flammability issues
• Propylene Glycol– Inexpensive
– Not compatible with some less-polar fragrance materials
– Reactive with aldehydes
• Surfactants( non-ionic)– The lowest % of active surfactant
allows more perfume available to the headspace
– The greatest the number of micelles, the less odor intensity.
• Vegetable Oils– Natural fragrance solvent
– Not great with very polar materials or powders
• Medium Chain Triglycerides– More compatible than vegetable
oils
– Cost effective
– Natural
• Mineral Spirits– Air care products
– Not natural
– Not compatible with polar materials
Questions?
Describing Fragrance Odors
Jim Powell
R&D Director / Sr. Perfumer
Return to Agenda
Describe That Odor
• In 3 Words or Less
• It’s All in the Families
• Essential Oil Families Chart
• Breakdown of Woody & Spice Families
• Aroma Chemical Families Chart
• Breakdown of Marine & Green Families
• The Creative Puzzle
• Classification and Description of Fragrances
• Conclusion
• Questions
In 3 words or less…
• ORC0701981
• ORC1104751
• ORC1106631
It’s All in the Families
• Materials are classified into families
– Both essential oils and chemicals
– Attempt to classify each material with
a single family designation
• Works for most materials
• Some gray areas
• Complexity within families
– Blends of materials synthetic and essential oils
• Fragrances are typically combinations of materials
from different families
– Fragrance ORC1106631
• Mandarin Oil
• Ethyl-2-Methyl Butyrate
• Galaxolide
CITRUS LEMON BERGAMOT TANGERINE ORANGE MANDARINE BITTER ORANGE LIME GRAPEFRUIT
WOODY SANDALWOOD CEDARWOOD VETIVER PATCHOULI OAKMOSS ABS TREEMOSS ABS PINE NEEDLE OIL CYPRESS OIL GUAIACWOOD
SPICY CLOVE BUD CINNAMOM BAY NUTMEG PEPPER CUMIN CARDAMON CASSIA CORIANDER
FLORAL NEROLI PETITGRAIN MIMOSA ABS ORANGE FLOWER ABS ORRIS ABS VIOLET PAYS ABS VIOLET LVS ABS CHAMOMILE TAGETE
ANISE ANISE SWEET FENNEL BASIL TARRAGON MYRTLE CARAWAY
ROSE ROSE ABS ROSE OIL GERANIUM OIL GERANIUM BOUR. BOIS DE ROSE
LAVENDER LAVENDER ABS LAVENDER 40/42 LAVENDER 50/52 LAVANDIN GROSSOLAVANDIN ABRIALIS SPIKE LAVENDER
HERBAL LENTISQUE CARAWAY GINGER ROSEMARY THYME EUCALYPTUS MATE JUNIPER BERRY FENUGREEK
BALSAM PERU TOLU VANILLA TONKA CISTUS ABS LABDANUM
WHITE FLORAL JASMIN ABS TUBEROSE ABS YLANG YLANG
RESIN OLIBANUM BENZOIN OPOPONAX MYRRH ELEMI GALBANUM STYRAX
ANIMAL CIVET CASTOREUM
CITRONELLA CITRONELLA CY CITRONELLA JAVA LEMONGRASS CITRONELLAL LITSEA CUBEBA
MINT PEPPERMINT SPEARMINT PENNYROYAL MARJORAM CORNMINT
PINE PINE NEEDLE PINE YARMOUR FIR BALSAM CYPRESS
MISC. VANILLA ABS SEAWEED ABS BLACK CURRANT ABS ARMOISE
TABLE OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND ABSOLUTES
• Sandalwood
• Cedarwood
• Vetiver
• Patchouli
• Cypress
• Guaicwood
Woody Essential Oil Family
• Clove Bud & Clove Leaf
• Cinnamon Leaf & Cinnamon Bark
• Cassia
• Nutmeg
• Black Pepper
• Cumin
Spice Essential Oil Family
AMBER AMBROXAN AMBRINOL KEPHALIS AMBROCENIDE KARANAL CEDRAMBER
ALDEHYDIC ALD C-8 ALD C-9 ALD C-10 ALD C-11 LIC ALD C-11 LENIC ALD C-12 LAURIC ALD C-12 MNA INTRELEVEN ALD
ANIMAL INDOLE SKATOLE IBQ ANIMALIS GRISALVA INDOLAROME PHENYL ACETIC ACID ETHYL PHENYL ACET.
WOODY CEDRYL ACETATE KEPHALIS VERTOFIX VETIVER ACETATE CEDROL ISO E SUPER IONONE ALPHA VERTENEX
CITRUS CITRAL CITRONELLAL CITRONELLYL NITRILE DIPENTENE RHUBAFURAN CITRATHAL MANDARINAL
FLORAL LINALOOL TERPINEOL HYDROXYCITRONELLAL NEROL TERPINYL ACETATE AMYL SAL. DIMETOL NEROL
FLORAL LYRAL LILIAL CYCLAMEN ALD. HEDIONE FLOROL STYRALLYL ACET. BOURGEONAL
FRUITY AMYL ACETATE ETHYL ACETATE ALD. C-14 ALD. C-16 ALD. C-18 E2METH BUTYRATE PHENOXY ETHYL ISO BUTY. VERDOX
FRUITY NONADIENAL ALLYL CYCLO PROP ALLYL CAPROATE MELONAL ETHYL PROP. FRUCTONE ALPHA DAMASCONE
GREEN ISO ANANATE C3H ACETATE C3 HEXENOL TRIPLAL HEXYL ACETATE TRANS 2 HEXENAL CYCLACET
JASMIN BENZYL ACETATE AMYL CINN. ALD. BENZYL PROPIONATE BENZYL CINNAMATE BENZYL SAL. BENZYL ALCOHOL CIS JASMONE
MARINE/OZONE CALONE DIHYDRO MYRCENOL SCENTENAL FLORALOZONE PRECYCLEMONE B FLORHYDRAL ADOXAL
MINTY/CAMPHOR MENTHOL CAMPHOR CRY. MENTHYL ACETATE L CARVONE MENTHONE CAMPHOR OIL ANETHOLE
MUSK MUSK XYLOL TONALID GALAXOLIDE HABANOLIDE AMBRETTOLIDE ETHYLENE BRASS. EXALTOLIDE MUSK 144 (ED)
NEROLI LINALYL ACETATE METHYL ANTH. NEROLIN CRYSTALS YARA YARA DIMETHYL ANTH. ANISIC ALD.
PINE ISO BORNYL ACET ALPHA PINENE BETA PINENE TERPINOLENE UNIPINE VERDOL
ROSE CITRONELLOL PEA GERANIOL PHEN ETH ACETATE PhEtPh ACETATE DAMASCONE BETA GERANYL ACETATE GERANYL BUTYRATE
SANDALWOOD SANDELA EBANOL SANDALORE SANJINOL BACDANOL OSYROL JAVANOL
SPICY CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE EUGENOL ISO EUGENOL METHYL ISO EUGENOL CINNAMIC ALCOHOL METHYL DIANTILIS CIMINIC ALD.
SWEETNERS VANILLIN ETH. VANILLIN HELIOTROPINE COUMARIN VANITROPE MALTOL ETH MALTOL COUMAREX
VIOLET MOC UNDECAVERTOL VELOUTONE IONONE BETA IRALIA VIOLETTYNE IONONE GAM. METH
TABLE OF AROMA CHEMICALS
Marine Aroma Chemical Family
• Calone
• Dihydro Myrcenol
• Scentenal
• Floralozone
• Adoxal
Green Aroma Chemical Family
• Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate
• Cis-3-Hexenol (Leaf Alcohol)
• Triplal
• Hexyl Acetate
• Verdyl Acetate
The Creative Puzzle
Materials
Learning to identify and classify materials
Creativity
The creative process begins at this step
Accords
Not every rose is a rose is a rose
M & A
This is where it gets interesting
Fragrances
“Fresh and Clean”
Classification and Description of Fragrances
• It’s “Fresh and Clean”
– Universal consumer term for “I like It”
– As professionals we should avoid its usage
• Finished fragrances are like materials in classification but…
– Typically a combination of several families
• Fruity-floral, citrus-green, lavender-herbal
• Described by more dominant note
• Top, Middle and Base Notes
– Not always appropriate
Conclusion
• Communication is key
• The same words can describe different fragrances
• Essential oils and aroma chemicals are classified into families
• Fragrances are a combination of both
• “Fresh and Clean”
• Finished fragrance classifications
• Top, middle and base notes
Questions?
Return to Agenda
Return to Agenda
Fragrance Pricing
John Little
Perfumer
Why should we talk about it?
• We’re asking for your money; you deserve to know how we
approach costs and what that means for your fragrances
• We believe transparency about our pricing fosters a dialogue that
helps us create better fragrances for our customers
• Price is no different than character: every customer has unique
requirements and limitations
• Price is a critical consideration during fragrance creation and directly
impacts:– Character
– Quality
– Strength
– Performance
So, what am I paying for?
• Our pricing depends on three factors:
1. Labor
2. Raw material cost (RMC)
3. Keeping the lights on
• Some materials simply cost more
– Constant evaluation of new and old materials from different suppliers
– Balancing character and cost
• Longer formulas take longer to produce– Every extra material is an extra step in manufacturing your fragrance
– The average length of a formula varies widely, but can easily exceed 40 unique materials
– A 400lb order is not 16x more labor intensive than 25lb; we pass these savings to our customers
What this means to you
• The factors effecting how we quote a fragrance (cost of labor plus
materials) are essentially fixed
• Something has to give
• Lowering the cost of a fragrance requires changing it
• Information about customers’ cost requirements will never impact our
price quote – Tiered pricing is automatically calculated using RMC and line items
– Perfumers are only concerned with getting you the best fragrance possible
• Changing the price of a fragrance changes the fragrance. – Character, quality, strength, and performance will suffer
– Sharing your unique pricing requirements gives us the opportunity
How we make fragrances cheaper
• Dilution– Solvents such as Benzyl Benzoate, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate are cheap
and are odorless
– Can improve solubility in finished application
– Very effective when initial fragrance is very expensive
– Less effective when fragrance is already very dilute
– Negatively impacts strength
• Substitute materials– Similar smelling, but cheaper materials can stand in for the more expensive ones
– Changes the character
– Imitation is flattering, but not a true replacement
– A single material might require multiple to substitute (Recons)
• Reduce materials– Lowers labor
– Combine similar smelling materials
Replace
Ambermor
• Sophisticated amber material
• Excellent impact and
character in most applications
• Very long lasting performance
• Excellent fabric care
performance
• Quality is highly dependent on
supplier
$328.85/lb
Ambermor Recon
• Combination of five aroma
chemicals and one natural
• Commonly used materials
available from multiple
suppliers
$7.47/lb
Replace and/or Reduce
Dynascone
• Exceptional bloom and impact
• Long lasting
• Popular note in men’s types
• Long lasting performance in
laundry care
• Patented material limited to
one supplier
$69.85/lb
Isoananate
• Single aroma chemical with
green galbanum and
pineapple like nuances
• Commonly used in
combination with similar
materials such as Dynascone
• Multiple suppliers
$14.51/lb
Balancing Act
• Optimizing a fragrance normally requires multiple approaches
• A fragrance will change in proportion to the original and final cost– No amount of creativity can replace money and materials
• Some fragrances are easier to reduce in cost than others– Key materials may dramatically change the starting character
– A perfumer may use their expertise to recommend an alternative depending on the flexibility of the project
• It can be hard to predict how expensive a duplication will cost
beforehand– Analysis may determine the costs being well above an acceptable price point
– Having a familiarity of what price is acceptable beforehand can slash development time and get a fragrance out sooner
• Communication on price is just as important as character and
product type
Questions?
Return to Agenda
Return to Agenda
Fragrance Regulations & Safety
Cara Rogers
Perfumer
What does it mean to be regulated?
• All industries are effected by regulations
• Create and enforce rules that might not otherwise be
followed for a common good
• Regulations are complex and often overlap
• Can effect related industries not within the initial scope of
regulations
IFRA
• Self- regulating system of the fragrance industry
• Based on risk assessments carried out by an
independent expert panel
• GOAL – safe use of fragrance ingredients
• Globally accepted and recognized risk
management system
RIFMResearch Institute for Fragrance Materials
• Scientific arm of IFRA
• Expert panel that instructs IFRA to issue a standard
• Comprehensive dossiers on the fragrance materials
• Expert panel: dermatology, toxicology, pathology and
environmental sciences
• 174 substances that are either banned, have specifications or
are restricted in their use in fragrance products
IFRA Categories
• Restrictions are specific to product categories
• Different products have different exposure risks
– Candles (category 11) vs. lip balm (category 1)
• Started in 2006 with the 40th amendment (48th as of 2015)
• Before the 40th amendment—leave on and rinse off products
• Fragrance materials are evaluated for their Quantitative Risk
Assessment (QRA) for each category
– SAF: sensitization assessment level
– CEL: consumer exposure level
– AEL: acceptable exposure level
IFRA Standards
• Prohibited: cannot use at all (0.1% is acceptable as
“unavoidable impurities” in raw materials such as essential oils)
• Restricted: can use the material but only below a certain
concentration in the finished product
• Specification: adhere to specific purity criteria
Fragrance Development
• Fragrances are always formulated to be skin safe according to:
– End user
– Product type
– Usage level
• Changes to any of the above requires reevaluating the
fragrance for suitability in final product
• Discuss potential/probable line extensions with salespeople
• Raw materials are continually reviewed for safety
• Changes in IFRA standards impact existing fragrances
Questions?
Return to Agenda
Valerie Sprovieri
Marketing Specialist
Return to Agenda
Deriving Fragrance Trends
Whether B2B or B2C, I passionately
believe that good marketing
essentials are all the same. We are
all emotional beings looking for
relevance, context, and connection.
– Beth Comstock, CEO of General Electric
Market Research Resources
Partnering with Orchidia provides you
with insightful market research from a
variety of marketing services.
We are always available in the event you
need additional research or consultation.
Active Subscriptions
• Mintel GNPD and Market Insight
• Statista: Statistics Global Database
– Euromonitor International
– Datamonitor
Additional Resources
• Trade Publications and Associations
• Trade Conferences and Exhibitions
• Google Alerts and Google Trends
• Social Media Monitoring
Example Research |
Top Fragrance Groups in Personal Care Products
North America, 2014 - 2016
1 Floral
2 Fantasy
3 Gourmet/Edible
4 Fruity & Gourmet/Edible
5 Green/Herbal/Woody
6 Aromatherapy/Mood Enhancement
7 Fruity & Floral
8 Citrus
9 Outdoor
10 Locational
When looking at a
customers’ product line,
we use similar data to
perform a gap analysis.
Example Research |
0.0%
10.0%
20.0%
30.0%
40.0%
50.0%
60.0%
Spray Plug-in/Electric Candle Liquid/ oil Potpourri
2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
U.S. Market Share of Air Care Products (2012 – 2016)
Very little change
in market share
over the past five
years.
Trends Are a Funny Thing
✓ Unpredictable & Challenging
✓ Is it a fad or a trend?
✓ Will history repeat itself?
✓ All Your Eggs in One Basket
✓ Consumer Perception
That is so fetch!
Stop trying to make ‘fetch’ happen!
That is so fetch!
Our Research Methodology
Creating scents that connect with people on an
olfactory and emotional level is no small challenge.
That is why Orchidia approaches this important
undertaking in an exceptionally robust and
painstaking way.
The Human Algorithm, is a process by which we
take an exhaustive look at key facets of life today:
✓ Music
✓ Food
✓ Beverage
✓ Fashion
✓ Education
✓ Environment
✓ Economics
✓ Politics
✓ Social Media
✓ Technology
✓ Science
✓ Architecture
✓ Design
✓ Art
✓ Apps
✓ Urban Planning
✓ Entertainment
✓ Travel/Leisure
✓ Latin America
✓ Asia
✓ Europe
The Human Algorithm | 2017 Trends
ARTISAN
VISUAL INFLUENCE
GLOBALIZATION
DISRUPTIVE IDEAS
Season of the Witch 2017
Orchidia Fragrance Trend Kits
Evolutions of Man
Various Orchidia fragrance kits from
throughout the years. Click on a thumbnail
to play video.
Americana Fragrances ICE Fragrances
Season of the Witch 2016
2018 Fragrance Trends Coming Soon
For more information, please contact your
Orchidia sales representative.
www.orchidia.com | sales@orchidia.com
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