waves
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WAVES
• disturbance caused by the movement of energy from a source through some medium (solid, liquid or gas).
WAVES
• The energy is moving at the speed of the wave, but NOT the water
WAVES
• The parcel of water moves in a circular motion = orbit
Fig. 9-3, p. 201
WAVES
• Because the wave form moves forward these are called progressive waves
Fig. 9-2, p. 201
Orbits
• The diameter of the orbits diminishes rapidly with depth• Wave motion in deep water is negligible past ½ the wavelength
Stoke’s Drift or Mass Transport
• Small net movement of water in the direction of the wave
Classifying Waves
• disturbing force = the energy that cause waves to form
• restoring force = the dominant force trying to return surface water to flatness
• wavelength
Table 9-1, p. 202
Figure 8.9
Deep vs Shallow Water waves• The orbits of water molecules in a wave are
circular only when the wave is in deep water
• A wave cannot “feel” the bottom if it is in water deeper than ½ its wavelength
• = a deep water wave
Figure 8.7a: Deep Water Wave
Figure 8.7b
Transitional waves = travel through water deeper than 1/20 their wavelength and shallower than ½ its wavelength
Figure 8.7c
Shallow water waves = moving in water shallower than 1/20 it wavelengthWater at the bottom moves back and forth
Deep vs Shallow Water Waves• ONLY WIND WAVES CAN BE DEEP
WATER WAVES
How waves break at shore...• A deep water waves feels bottom and becomes a
transitional wave then a shallow water wave• orbits become elliptical• crests become peaked so wave height increases• Waves in front slow down so wave length decrease
How waves break at shore...• The wave becomes too high for its
wavelength and the wave breaks– Wave steepness is waveheight/wavelength– When H/L = 1/7, the wave breaks
• The surf zone is the region between the breaking waves and the shore.
How large do wind waves get?
• Depends on – wind strength– wind duration– fetch (distance over which wind blows)
• Waves spread out (dispersion) based on size (large waves move faster)– Capillary waves … wind waves…fully
developed seas…swell
Figure 8.10
Fig. 9-9, p. 207
Fig. 8.12
Highest wave: 1933 – in Pacific during a strong storm: strong wind in one direction for days…112ft (34 m)
INTERFERENCE
• Destructive interference = cancellation effects of subtraction– When a wave crest and another wave’s trough
coincide
INTERFERENCE
• Constructive interference = addition effects that form large crests and deep troughs– When crests coincide
Figure 8.15
Figure 8.16
Fig. 9-13 (a-b), p. 209
Fig. 9-13c, p. 209
Constructive Interference can cause “Rogue Waves”
Fig. 9-16, p. 211
A 20 m (66 ft) wavein Hawaii
Wave Refraction• When waves do not approach parallel to
shore…• The wave line will bend to become more
parallel to shore
Figure 8.19a
Figure 8.19b
Figure 8.19c
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