wave mechanics assignment – example solution
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Wave Mechanics Assignment – Example Solution
Cross Shore Morphology
”Dynamic personality" of the beach
Beach sediment is highly mobile - advantageous in that a beach can rapidly adjust its profile in response to a changing wave climate
Profile change can be considered a natural defensive adjustment which can change where wave breaking occurs and how energy can be dissipated across the surf zone.
By monitoring changes to the cross shore morphology (beach and nearshore topography), we can better understand beach behavior and how it changes in response to changing oceanic conditions.
“Emery Board” - Cartoon Man
Kenneth Orris (K. O.) Emery (1914-1998)
Straightforward, effective technique – has advantage of rapid surveying with minimal equipment:
1. Two flat boards connected by a rope of standard length
2. Sight across top of seaward board to level of horizon – record ‘a’ (see figure above), which is equal to ‘b’ = the negative “rise” over the “run” (rope length)
3. Repeat the procedure from dune to low water
“Emery Board” - Our class next week
Beach Profiling - Other Techniques
surfrover
CRABNumerous vehicles have been used within the surf zone and on the beach.
Basic premise - they can report "where" they are, in 3 dimensions, quite accurately
Correction is applied for the difference above the sea floor to obtain bathymetry.
Most common modern technique
High precision
Can be mounted on a backpack, a four-wheeler, a jetski, or a boat.
RTK - DGPS Beach Profiling
RTK - DGPS - UF Geo Dept.
Argus – “Remote Sensing” / Video Technique
Operating from Feb. 2003 to present
Argus Station
Oblique view of sand body migration
Panoramic view
Map view
East West
Panoramic View to Map View
Use the tide to contour the beach.
Large tidal range - 8+ meters.
Tide represents a horizontal plane of known elevation.
Intersection of tidal plane w/ beach surface gives a contour line.
Permits mapping of beach profiles.
Beach Profiling Technique
R_04_TideContouringMovie_June_14_2003.avi
Show HomerCam6_July6-10_2004.mov
Comparison of profile aquisition
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