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The photographer as artist
M A G A Z I N E
Vivek NairChairman & Managing Director,The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts
In May this year, The Leela Group marked the second death
anniversary of its Founder Chairman, Captain C.P. Krishnan Nair. As a
tribute to his legacy of environmental conservatism — Cap. Nair was
on the Global 500 Laureate Roll of Honour by the United Nations for
We are now in the monsoons. Many states welcome the season
in their unique way; and many of India’s most important festivals
are celebrated during the monsoon. Teej is a three-day festival in
Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and Rajasthan, in which the women
keep a fast and wear colourful and stylish saris and jewellery. Raja is
celebrated in Odisa, to mark the arrival of the rains, when agricultural
activity is suspended and people indulge in sundry revelries and games
like kabaddi. Kerala boasts of Onam, a rice harvest festival, the state’s
biggest.
For tourists who will be in Kerala to enjoy Onam, it will also be a
perfect time to experience an Ayurvedic therapy at The Leela Kovalam’s
spanning one to three weeks, which combine Ayurvedic treatments and
customised diets to detoxify your body and balance its three doshas
(vatta, pitta, and khappa), the three fundamental bodily energies.
All the Leela leisure hotels — The Leela Kovalam, The Leela Goa
and The Leela Palace Udaipur — will be glad to host you this season as
part of their special Leela Getaway packages. For instance, ‘The Leela
Moments’ enables you to unwind at the resort with your family; and
‘Sights and Culture’ is about exploring the heritage of the city.
In the upcoming months, the e-Tourist Visa scheme, which the central
government introduced in 2015-2016, is expected to become an even
bigger success. Over 7.5 lakh e-visas have been issued so far, translating
to an average of 3,500 on a daily basis, to foreign nationals. The hotel
For tourists who will be in Kerala to enjoy
Onam, it will also be a perfect time to experience an
Ayurvedic therapy at The Leela Kovalam’s
Divya Spa
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 4 | MONSOON 2016
CHAIRMAN’S MESSAGE
64Adventure
A bouldering pioneer and
his Shangri La
70Art
The conceptual art of
Sunil Gawde
T H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — M O N S O O N 2 0 1 6
26Wheels
The world’s fastest
luxury SUV comes to India
12Luxe Effect
Cool watches, stunning
lights and more
30Business
Nepal’s only billionaire
and his noodle empire
22Offbeat
A new way of travelling:
vacation with an artist
50Fashion
The success story of fashion
designer Bibhu Mohapatra
56Travel
A road trip in the wild African
province of Limpopo
42Photography
Tomasz Gudzowaty is Poland’s
biggest photographer
38Food
A gluttonous weekend in
Abergavenny, in Wales
34Style
Our picks of linen suits, and a
guide about wearing them
42
CONTENTST H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — M O N S O O N 2 0 1 6
CONTENTSCOVER Model Melody Mir with a meerkat in Namibia. Photographed by Tomasz Gudzowaty
“This Magazine is published by Hotel Leela Ventures Limited (“Leela”) and produced by Mediascope Publicitas (India) Pvt. Ltd., on behalf of and under agreement with Leela. Opinions expressed herein are of the authors
about editorial matters, reproduction of articles and advertising should be addressed to The Leela Magazine, Mediascope Publicitas (India) Private Ltd., 51 Doli Chamber, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Mumbai 400 005, India. Email: jaideep.dave@publicitas.comMaterial in this publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the consent of the publisher. Neither Leela nor MSP assumes any responsibility or endorses any claim made by the advertisers herein.”Printed at Parksons Graphics, Andheri (West), Mumbai 400053.
This magazine is printed on environment-friendly, wood-free paper.
T H E L E E L A M A G A Z I N E — M O N S O O N 2 0 1 6
C O N T E N T S
BACK OF THE BOOK
THE LEELAEDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Lakshmi NairPRODUCTION DIRECTOR — Shobha Patel PRODUCTION — Prakash Bachche
PUBLICITAS PUBLISHINGEDITORIALEDITOR-IN-CHIEF — Deepali Nandwani EDITOR — Jaideep DaveWRITER — Nisha ShroffCLIENT SERVICE MANAGER — Reshma Malvankar
ARTCREATIVE DIRECTOR — Muhammad Jaan FaruquiART DIRECTOR — Rane Sanjay VamanGRAPHIC DESIGNER — Shivaji B. GaikwadIMAGE EDITOR — Mrunali Gujarathi PRODUCTION MANAGER — Elidio Fernandes
ADVERTISING SALESMUMBAI (022- 61377400) Vice President — Monica ChopraKatty Gia, Lamont Dias, Rashmi Kapoor DELHI (011-23730873/66599300) Regional Manager (North) — Sanjay SethBANGALORE (09886041356) — Nagesh RaoHYDERABAD (08978866599) — Sheetal Petkar KERALA (09414069321) — Sanjai Krishnan
AD SALES - INTERNATIONALHONG KONG (+852-2516 1003) — Winky Wong MALAYSIA (+60-3-7729 6923) — Shallie Cheng SINGAPORE (+65 6735 8681) — Joui Ong DUBAI (+9714 3913360) — Sunil Kanchan
MARKETINGMANAGER MARKETING SERVICES — Salim B.
FINANCE & ACCOUNTSSR. MANAGER - ACCOUNTS & ADMIN.— Girish SharmaACCOUNTS EXECUTIVE — Ashwin MakwanaCREDIT CONTROLLER — Girish Joshi
CORPORATECEO & MANAGING DIRECTOR — Marzban Patel EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR — Anita Patel CFO — Anup Dutta DIRECTOR — Indu Joshi
CONNECT WITH US ON
76 Snapshot
78 Chef’s Corner
79 Jet Set Go
80 Retreats
82 Events
84 Launchpad
85 Social Index
86 Perspective
87 Insider’s Guide
78 86 87
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 6 | MONSOON 2016 MONSOON 2016 | 7 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
LANCÔME
HERMÈS
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
RALPH LAUREN
The best of style
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 12 | MONSOON 2016
The lowdown on the most interesting new watches.
Masters of time
ROLEX Rolex’s latest version of its classic gem-set Oyster Perpetual
Pearlmaster 39 timepiece is stunning. The case is crafted
from a solid block of 18 ct Everose gold. The watch is
equipped with a new generation movement, calibre 3235,
entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. It features a
self-winding module via a perpetual rotor. The striking dial
in 18 ct pink gold is paved with 713 diamonds.
OMEGA Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean’s Deep Black collection
boasts a case that is entirely made of ceramic. The watch
is driven by the Omega Master Chronometer calibre 8906
and has a power reserve is up to 60 hours. This piece is a
combination of a GMT model and a diving watch.
VACHERON CONSTANTINEVacheron Constantine’s Overseas World Time piece tells the time in
37 time zones simultaneously, on its dial. The unique dial features a
projection map depicting the continents and the oceans and marked
with city names. The watch boasts about 40 hours of power reserve
and is water resistant up to 150m. Housed in a 43.5mm-diameter
case, it operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour,
corresponding to a frequency of 4 Hz.
BREGUET This 2016 edition of Classique
Breguet’s Hora Mundi replaces
the original depiction of the
globe with a “clou de Paris”
hobnail motif. On the exterior,
the watch has a 43mm diameter
and a thickness of 12.6mm. It
caseback and features a number
of sophisticated touches, such
as a slim rounded bezel, a
sides, as well as added welded
strap lugs.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 16 | MONSOON 2016
LUXE EFFECT
Make an extravagant addition to
your home with any one of these
Let there be light
JEREMY COLEWhite Flax, a statement
lamp from the house of
Jeremy Cole, is made of
350 handcrafted porcelain
leaves are geometrically
arranged for even light
and contains a central glass
ROCHE BOBOISRoche Bobois’ new products
include lights with suspension
extensible rods in brushed
natural shades of transparent and
JONATHAN ADLERJonathan Adler’s Ultra
chandelier features
a minimal alignment
by large globe bulbs,
this stylish piece is
covered in rose gold,
TIMOTHY OULTON
lamp draws inspiration from
19th century experimental
physicist Leon Foucault’s
materials used are antique rust
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 18 | MONSOON 2016
New York-based designer Geetika Anand had always been
drawn to art, right from childhood. At school, she found herself
focussing more in her Technical Design class than in the
Chemistry one. And it was this love that drove her to give engineering a
miss and instead build a career in design. Her work has led her to more
than 35 countries, and everytime she travelled, she tried to seek local
artists and work with them. However it proved to be an onerous task, as
some who were looking to take a break from work and get creative, some
who wanted to learn something new or enhance their skills and others
who were looking for an adventure. That’s when the idea of VAWAA,
Vacation With An Artist, was born.”
destinations such as Hanoi (Vietnam) and Penang (Malaysia) to Ljubljana
(Slovenia) and Prague (Czech Republic), and featuring a diverse range of
creative artists and craftsmen, from writers to bespoke shoemakers.
So, for example, in Buenos Aires, you can spend a few days with
Argentinian street artist Pum Pum, who is ruling the city walls with her
her distinctive characters, like the big bangs girl, rabbits, cats in boots,
on the street or canvas, create your own artwork or assist Pum Pum in
art scene and then paint your own artwork on the streets of Buenos Aires.
writer/editor/poet Nguyen Qui Duc in his home studio — a self-designed
over the jungle.” You can work on a personal project or collaborate —
feedback on theme, character development, plot structure or language.
The holidaying idea Vacation With An Artist is exactly what the
name says: travellers spend time at a destination and soak up some
Flights of imagination Learn about ceramic art from Katja
Spiler, in Ljubljana, in Slovenia
By Akhila Ranganna
Flights of imagination
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 22 | MONSOON 2016
a small town 46 kms from Ljubljana, in Slovenia, where, apart from
enjoying the stunning views of the Julian Alps, you spend a few days in
create cylinders and bowls and learn about surface decoration and
Still another package takes you to another small town near Ljubljana,
photographer Borut Peterlin’s studio. Go on a photography expedition in
the deep forests and even go rafting as you learn analog photography
printing; work with vintage cameras, visit old studios and create memories
with your handmade prints.
One of the Penang packages is about cooking with Nazlina Hussin,
with healing local herbs that have healing properties. See how malay
ingredients grow in their natural habitat, go for a local market tour
packages is about spending a week with Vijay Sharma — the man who
bamboo bicycle, in Bengaluru.
Anand was working as Creative Director with R/GA, a New York based
digital agency, when last summer, she became one of 75 people chosen
lifestyle of travelling and working remotely. This became her sabbatical
America — and it was during these travels that VAWAA took shape. Anand
discovered her love for travel and learning during her college days,
where she spent summers working with artisans in the small towns of
there’s no time to tap into our inner creativity and grow,” says Anand, who
is currently in Cusco in Peru, preparing to hike to Macchu Picchu.
country, looking for artists who have deep knowledge of their art, have
artists even from countries she is not travelling to via Skype, and with the
help of local ambassadors.
an artist or a stay at an artist’s village? According to Anand, VAWAA is
more immersive and personal, involving not more than three guests. A
vacation with an artist is your personal time with the artist in their studio.
While VAWAA will provide a general outline, you can focus on any area
shape the experience.
Geetika Anand, the founder of Vacation With An Artist, and Uruguay-based music producer Francisco Lapetina
(From left) Explore your literary side with award-winning writer, editor and poet Nguyen Qui Duc, in Hanoi, in Vietnam; and experience rattan
weaving with Sim Buck Teik, in Penang, in Malaysia
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 24 | MONSOON 2016
Tthe storied British company, now owned by Volkswagen, would
one day be making SUVs, he would have gone apoplectic. But, this
is the 21st century, and every manufacturer worth its salt, big or small,
has to have one in its line-up. Mercedes introduced one back in the late
1990s, Rolls-Royce is developing one. And since Bentley is already out
with its Bentayga, chances are that the said owner is already queueing up
to buy one.
Like with all other Bentleys, or cars that cost a massive amount of
money, the Bentayga is engineered and handcrafted at its own facility,
in Crewe, England. The cabin looks to be a fantastic place to spend some
veneers, handcrafted metal elements, front seats that feature 22-way
adjustment, including adjustable cushion and backrest bolsters; and the
seats are also equipped with a massage system, heating and ventilation.
as Bentley do not use cow hide because cows get pregnant, and once that
happens, the skin is not as blemishless as, well, a bull’s), all of which, says,
Bentley, is “sourced from cool European climates, and naturally tanned”.
The Bentley Bentayga is the world’s fastest SUV. And
By Rajshekhar Rao
Need speedforThe Bentley Bentayga claims
a top speed of 301kph
option of dual tone interiors.
A full-length panoramic sunroof with acoustic interlays allows ample
natural sunlight to highlight the surfaces and detailing. And, while it
might not seem to be a great idea in India, the SUV also has a full-length
panoramic sunroof with acoustic interlays.
Under the hood of the car is, true to Bentley tradition, an enormous
engine. We are talking 12 cylinders — for some perspective, the Hyundai
Creta has four cylinders — and two turbochargers. The W12 engine — the
cylinders are arranged in the shape of the alphabet ‘W’ — develops some
600bhp and 900Nm of torque. Auto enthusiasts will tell you that all that
power and torque can take it from standstill to a 100kph in 4.1 seconds,
and onwards to a top speed of 301kph. We think this car is so powerful
the point is if you wanted to, you could. Like, if you are getting away from
With its four headlamps and that large matrix grille, the Bentayga is
unmistakably a Bentley, shouldering the legacy of popular Bentleys of the
past rather well, especially considering it’s an SUV, and that the car maker
ever.
tackle varied conditions, from sand to rocky outcrops. The Driver Info
Panel displays information on pitch, roll, wheel articulation, steering
angle, compass bearing and altitude. And there’s Adaptive Cruise Control
that allows drivers to maintain a set distance from the vehicle in front.
The Bentayga zips from 0 to 100kph in 4.1 seconds
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 26 | MONSOON 2016 MONSOON 2016 | 27 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
WHEELS
More technologies, such as the Predictive Assist, uses a variety of data
— navigational, from sensors, and from cameras — to inform drivers of
upcoming bends in the road, city boundaries and speed limit changes.
uses four cameras to beam an overall pic of the vehicle’s surroundings. Of
still not allowed by authorities here. But, they should have no problems
steering to allow drivers to wedge into the tightest of spaces.
Bentley Standard Audio, Bentley Signature Audio and Naim for Bentley
Premium Audio. The last is the most powerful system in the segment, with
Apparently, the company has only allocated 20 Bentaygas for India.
According to newspaper reports, the car, which was launched in India late
April, has already got over a 100 bookings. Which means that irrespective
of how rich you are, you might have to wait for quite sometime before you
can sink your posterior into the world’s fastest SUV.
hides; and (right)
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 28 | MONSOON 2016
Nepal’s noodle tycoon
Binod Chaudhary, 61, is the Chairman of the
Chaudhary Group, which has more than 80 companies
under its aegis, with a presence in sectors such as
banking, retail, real estate and electronics. Chaudhary
was in Mumbai in May this year to launch his
autobiography, Making it Big. The following excerpts
narrate what inspired the creation of Wai Wai noodles,
the group’s most famous export and product, and how
the brand came to dominate the market in Nepal.
T
noodles could be seen trundling down the baggage belt once international
I had been looking for another product that could be made out of
suggested to me one day.
and tour operators of Nepal in those days, and had noticed the large
One of the reasons for the popularity of the noodles was the growing
number of Nepalis who were going abroad and trying out new foods. A
by two noodle companies. Gandaki Noodles had launched Rara while
concluded that nothing could be more appropriate than instant noodles
needed was the technical knowledge related to noodle production. As far
as the market was concerned, Rara and Maggi had blazed the trail. I just
had to blacktop it.
Wai Wai hit the Nepal market in 1984. Now we needed a strong
Within two years, Wai Wai had brought about a sea change in the
it came to instant noodles. We set up our second plant at the CG Industrial
bought yet another plant that was being sold by an Indonesian instant
noodle company.
Today we produce approximately 1.5 million packets of Wai Wai in
had doubted we could sell.
— —
After the success of Wai Wai, instant noodles companies mushroomed
Forbes estimates Chaudhary’s wealth to be at $1.3 billion
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 30 | MONSOON 2016
market that they almost destroyed the
market itself. At one point, all the
other instant noodles companies
formed a coalition against Wai
Wai. They were not working
to expand the market but to
take a share of Wai Wai’s by
slashing prices to such an extent
that they were making losses.
established company like ours was jolted. Wai Wai’s share of the market
Wai Wai and other brands became negligible. After our competitors
minimum price we had agreed on. Minimum price is the strongest indicator
of a product’s place in the market. If the minimum price of your product
products in the market falls dramatically. I passed through that phase in
buy Mayos, we might get a diamond necklace.’
then we’ll face a tough time in the market.’
slogan should be: “No more just a diamond necklace: now a full set of
diamond jewellery.”
than a dozen customers within a month. We came up with prizes such
as houses, cars, motorcycles, laptops,
long-term prospects of boosting sales by
First, we decided to focus on wooing
young people and making our product
more suitable for children. We launched a
new product called Wai Wai Quick with the
more nutrients such as calcium, minerals and
The second strategy related to media. We started to produce
Third, we pulled Wai Wai out from the cut-throat price war and
launched many cheaper brands such as Gol Mol, Mama and Rin Tin, which
a counter-attack against our competitors through these brands, but we
produce the best results because they not only understand the mindset of
Nepali employees can be seen in it. That photograph shows how much my
organisation has grown, as most of our employees today are Nepali.
was successful. Wai Wai not only regained its initial position as the leading
of Rs.250 crore.
It is not that we were not successful before Wai Wai, but that brand
structure. An idea born at the baggage belt of Tribhuwan International
Airport created the largest FMCG company in Nepal.
Excerpted, with permission, from Making it Big:
Wai Wai has a market share of 60 per cent in Nepal, and 20 per cent in India
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 32 | MONSOON 2016
Men’s suits are getting weather-friendly and taking on a cool, new look, with linen. By Prerna Singh Butalia
The Language of
Linen
STYLE
L inen has stepped out of the holiday, just-lounging-around
wardrobe, and into the daily closet of the more style-conscious
urban man. In fact, it has even found its way into the boardroom.
“There is a linen suit out there, for every kind of occasion,” says designer
Narendra Kumar Ahmed, a pioneer of the linen suit, not just on the ramp,
but on his own person, too. “The beauty of linen lies in the fact that you
can get away with a far wider range in colour palettes, than you have
the liberty of, with other fabrics. There’s a summer palette, which is all
bright and pop colours, and there’s a winter palette, which is mostly
earth tones, but you really don’t have to restrict yourself in a seasonal
manner, as long as what you’re wearing is occasion-appropriate.” While
Ahmed maintains that linen is essentially a summer fabric, for him,
that’s hardly a limitation. “Except for the north, you can get away with
wearing linen 11 months out of 12, in a year, and in places like Mumbai,
it’s always summer!” However, designer duo Pratham & Gyanesh,
who specialise in linen, argue that linen is an all-season fabric. “Most
people don’t know this, but linen has thermo-regulating properties,”
they say. “So, it keeps you cool in the summer and warm in the winter.”
How about that! Still need more reason to put away those heavy suits,
and stock up on this stylish fabric? If you’re wondering where to lay
your hands on them, we’ve got you the lowdown on the designers with
the best linen suits on their racks, right now.
ROHIT GANDHI & RAHUL KHANNA
the modern, ultra-connected world, with all its innovation, and a
constant desire for comfort and simplicity. Their suits maintain the
stylish edge, which has come to be synonymous with their designs,
through a combination of pastel tones and sharp silhouettes. The idea
is that you have it all, in one ensemble.
Pratham & Gyanesh’s Dawn collection features single- as well as double-breasted jackets
Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna’s latest collection has that
stylish edge the duo’s designs are known for
Stock up. Exploit the fact that linen suits come in so many
styles and colours. Buy full suits, combinations, just jackets,
plain shirts, whatever you can. “Linen separates work very well,
too,” says Ahmed. So keep that in mind. Also, the wider range
your look.
Have your basics in place. “Linen suits in earthy tones,
like beige and olive, are a must-have,” say Pratham & Gyanesh.
And these are the suits you’ll be wearing to work. “Your business
look needs to be sober, so keep your palette at grey, blue,
brown, khaki,” adds Ahmed. To go for a quick work-to-play look,
just swap your jacket for a more vibrant colour. Or, if your suit’s
a darker blue or brown, swap your shirt for a tee, and switch to
more casual footwear, like a smart pair of loafers.
Play it cool. “Linen works really well with jeans,” says
Ahmed. “Even if you’re going for Friday dressing,
at work, throw a linen jacket over your jeans, and
put on a smart pair of brogues.” Trust us, you’ll
be taken more seriously! “If you’re just lounging
around, on an afternoon, wear a T-shirt instead of
a shirt, pick a suit with shorts and not trousers, and
look for fun colours like pink and orange,” he adds.
Pratham & Gyanesh recommend linen suits be worn
to brunches, sundowners and day weddings.
Look after your linen. the world loses its shape and charm if not treated
well,” say Pratham & Gyanesh. “Only and only dry
clean your linen.” The best way to iron your linen
is to steam it. “You can actually just let your suit
hang in the bathroom while you take a hot shower,”
says Ahmed. “The steam from your bath will iron
it out.”
Enjoy your linen. Don’t obsess too much about
the wrinkles. But if you must, Ahmed suggests you
carry your ironed jacket out on a hanger, and put
it on once you’ve reached your destination. Don’t
mix your fabrics because you think it will make
your linen more resilient to crushing. It will only
dilute the quality and dampen your style. “At the
most, get a jacket with polyester mixed into the
lining on the sleeve, but keep it to that, please,” he
says. The trick really is to revel in the fabric. “That’s
the beauty of linen,” say Pratham & Gyanesh.
“Carry your suit the way it is and don’t think too
much. Trust us, those wrinkles look great!”
Your Linen Guide
Pair up a linen suit
with shorts for casual occasions
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 34 | MONSOON 2016 MONSOON 2016 | 35 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
PRATHAM & GYANESHTheir debut collection, Dawn, features light-weight, unstructured
single- as well as double-breasted and also sporty jackets, along with
tapered, turned-up trousers, shirt and kurtis, mostly in linen, in colours
that go from midnight blue to turquoise to yellow, charcoal greys and
while keeping it comfortable.
RAJESH PRATAP SINGHThis season, the designer, known for his experimentations with linen,
explores the possibilities of linen through innovations in reversible
fabrics, light-weight weaves, prints and embroideries. He maintains that
linen, being the perfect all-weather fabric, is extremely versatile and,
with equal elan. Rajesh Pratap’s bespoke services allow you to pick his
creations in a wide range of colours.
“Except for the north, you can get away with
wearing linen 11 months out of 12, in a year, and
in places like Mumbai, it’s always summer!” says
Narendra Kumar Ahmed
THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 36 | MONSOON 2016
Driving across the Brecon Beacons National Park is like going
through a vast green tunnel, populated solely by trees and
shrubs, and nearly endless, or so you begin to think till suddenly
a pretty little village turns up. The phrase ‘in the middle of nowhere’
kind of loses its punch in Wales because you arrive there too easily. The
few villages and small towns that dot Brecon Beacons have names out
of some fable—Bwlch, LLangattock, Clydach—and a setting to match,
wide. Compared to them, Abergavenny, where I was, was almost a city
(it has a population of over 10,000!), or a biggish town just on the edge
of the forest.
But even Abergavenny was no place
miles out of town, in a village whose
name you cannot even pronounce, yes,
quite in the middle of nowhere, appears
after British star chef Shaun Hill took
it over recently. It was also voted the
‘Best Restaurant in Wales’ in 2014’s
edition of National Restaurant Awards
in the UK. Chef Hill, who used to earlier
which was routinely voted among the
best restaurants in the world, has put
Abergavenny on the gourmet map with
this little gem. The Walnut Tree is like
an old inn instead of a stylish modern
eatery, decorated understatedly with just
a few paintings. This is perhaps because
it was an inn in the 1960s, turned into a
restaurant only later, and if you want you
can still stay at the two cottages here.
The food at The Walnut Tree is from no particular cuisine: Hill gets
what he can from the market and turns the ingredients into whatever
he wishes on the day. As a result, the menu changes daily. If you like
something you ate, you must call and beg him to make it again. (No, I
dauphinoise potatoes, which you really must try, though how anyone can
The little town of Abergavenny , in Wales, will surprise you with
fresh produce, and gastronomes with a passion for good food.
By Kalyani Prasher
A gluttonous Welsh weekend(Clockwise from left) The Marches Delicatessen
| 38 | | 39 |
FOOD
garlic, a side dish is beyond my understanding.
When I explored Abergavenny the next day, the location of The
the ceiling by way of decoration and the hall was full of little kiosks of
food—jellies, jams, chutneys, cheese, meats, candies and oh, such a lot of
lovely bread. Freshly baked rounds, loaves, and tins of bread! Filled with
Was I in heaven and could I stay here forever?
The people of Abergavenny clearly love food, which is evident in the
bottle of ‘Kashmiri Chutney’, which looks too much like tomato preserve at
the Cherry Tree stall, a British company that has a range of other delicious
chutneys and preserves, and get a sheepish grin when I question its origin.
I did buy their caramelised onion relish though, apart from a number of
other preserves that taste superb. Everywhere in the market you can
Festival, where you can buy seasonal produce and fresh farm products
from over 80 exhibitors from around the area.
Had I known about the food market, I would have planned the day
better and had breakfast there and then lunched at the Angel Hotel in
the centre of town. However, having pigged out at the food market, I had
no room for lunch and walked around the town instead. Abergavenny is
small and stylish, its town centre about two miles long, ending soon into a
unpronounceable village, is the oldest pub in Wales and is supposed to be
as dire as stealing sheep.
A wine detour
Not far from Abergavenny, less than an hour’s drive away, is the
beautiful Ancre Hill Estate vineyard, where you can sample the
children—Ancre Hill Estate is a sprawling vineyard where you can
watch and learn the tricks of picking, processing and bottling the right
grapes. The new bottling building on the estate is the biggest straw
structure in the world with a height of 7ft and a capacity of 3000 cubic
mg. You can walk around the greenery, learn the art of winemaking and
eat good food—but the real pleasure at Ancre is to witness Richard’s
passion for wine, as he takes you around the place, and tells you all
the little things that make it so special. Apart from wine tasting and
lunch sessions, you can even stay at the cottage on the vineyard
at £774 per week. Book for wine tasting or stay, much in advance.
the town centre of Abergavenny, a delightful little store that has a
range of cheeses and meat, apart from some superbly packaged tea.
Their cheeses win awards every year and have got none less than a
Super Gold in the Specialist Cheesemakers category at the 2014 World
Cheese Awards.
Bags of cheese and miles of walking later, I was ready for some food
and went to the Wedgewood Room at The Angel Hotel for their afternoon
tea. And, was I glad I had skipped lunch! The high tea here is one of those
things people experience once in their life and talk about for years. With
over 30 types of teas to choose from, I settled for a pot of Chinese White
the tea came éclairs and scones and three types of sandwiches, tiramisu,
sausage rolls, and almost an endless amount of food.
Abergavenny is truly a place for food lovers—you eat great food, buy
fabulous fresh produce, meet people who understand and share your love
for food, and you go away happy as a child.
| | | |
The photographer as artist
Shooting sport: My subject is sport as spiritual experience and
cultural phenomenon. These are values often neglected, if not absent, in
today's mainstream sport, so I look for them in fringe areas, for example,
in isolated, exotic cultures. That doesn't mean that my photography
is focussed on the exotic. On the contrary, I want to keep the universal
aspect of sport clearly in sight. My narration is about sport as a common
denominator of human culture. This is why I photograph traditional as
well as emerging sports that lack any established tradition. Of course, as
a photographer who comes from the documentary photography tradition,
I want to preserve, in art, vanishing disciplines, but I believe that human
nature remains the same through ages. People will always want to go
beyond limits.
The fascination with India: India is indeed a fascinating country,
languages and cultures squeezed in a relatively small area. Perhaps not so
many people realise that it is less than 30 percent bigger than Argentina or
in India was themed on a local form of wrestling called “nada kusti”. A year
later I went to the southern tip of the peninsula to photograph the ancient
martial art of kalaripayattu and a boxing club for women. Then I decided to Ukrainian synchronised swimmers, Warsaw, Poland, 2008
Award-winning Polish photographer
Tomasz Gudzowaty
one of his most famous shoots in the country
has been that of nada kusti practitioners
of Mysore. One of the shots from that
project is the cover of the recently released
book Beyond the Body, a curation of his
photographs of exotic and non-traditional
sports shot across a dozen countries. The
book captures, among others, synchronised
swimmers of Ukraine, Mongolian horse racers,
and Shaolin monks. In an interview with
Jaideep Dave, Gudzowaty talks about the
book, India, and portrait photography.
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PHOTOGRAPHY
(Clockwise from left)Penguins at the South Georgia Island, a stunningly beautiful wildlife sanctuary, accessible only by sea, 2014; a yoga practitioner, Varanasi, 2007; and nada kusti wrestlers, Mysore, 2011 (Facing page) “Of all elements, a wise man should choose water to be his teacher”, Shaolin Temple, Henan, China, 2002; and Iron head kung fu — Shaolin monks during practice
tackle the subject of yoga, and in 2011 I returned to Mysore, to the same
sports journalist from Mysore, Coimbatore Muralidharan, who proved to
pick out the best experience. In terms of pure photographic quality, I was
probably most happy with nada kusti, or female boxers, but yoga was also
a big challenge and a rewarding experience. It has strong connections to
religion, and due to its spiritual nature it is rarely associated with sport.
Sport should involve competition, shouldn't it? I discovered that that sort
of “yoga contest” was actually practised in the form of confrontation of
subject into my overarching project called “Beyond the Body”.
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“Photography got recognition as an art form when it was monochrome. Colour is very “acquisitive”, and I think that self-conscious abstinence from it makes my message more clear and stronger. I used to quote the
deafen the ear’.”
(Above) Model Melody Mir, who is Tomasz Gudzowaty’s wife, at the Cook Glacier at St Andrews Bay, South Georgia Island, 2014. (Left) Tomasz Gudzowaty himself
(Facing page) Melody Mir in the Soussevlei Desert, Namibia, 2014
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Favourite pics: I deem all pictures to be presented to the audience to
be relevant and important — otherwise they wouldn't see daylight anyway.
I am perhaps most sentimental about portraits. Portraiture has been taking
a more and more important part in my photography since 2007, when I
switched to a large-format camera, but its importance is visible in some of
my earlier projects.
Black and white photography: The preference is not absolute.
I employ color quite regularly in my recent projects, but indeed it used
to play a minor role in my photography, especially that drawing on the
tradition of classical reportage. Photography got recognition as an art form
when it was monochrome. Colour is very “acquisitive”, and I think that self-
conscious abstinence from it makes my message more clear and stronger.
tones deafen the ear."
The book ‘Beyond the Body’: It all started with a chance meeting
with Nan Goldin, the famous American photographer, in Amsterdamm
where she delivered a lecture during the Word Press Photo Award Days.
An acquaintance, then a friendship, developed, and eventually she
proposed to edit my sport photographs into a book. She took a perspective
around purely visual qualities of the images. The title, “Beyond the Body”,
points to what I termed “metaphysics of sport”. While retaining qualities
pictures taken over the span of 10 years, in some dozens of countries,
Nan chose images for their emotional evocation of the sense and desire of
freedom from the limitations of the body.
Recent projects: I have been working on a big project far beyond
the traditional photography, but this is not something I can talk about right
now. However, I'd like to mention my recent books published by Steidl,
including Beyond the Body, Photography As A New Kind Of Love Poem,
Closer, and Proof. The last especially brings a quite new quality into my
photography. I am attempting to explore the “esthetics of chance”, so to
speak, by using proof prints that were normally not intended as artworks.
We plan a travelling exhibition next year. I hope that one of Indian cities
will be on our tour route.
Kinokawa, a sumo wrestler from the Azumazeki stable, walking his master’s dog, Tokyo, Japan, 2010
‘Urban Golf’ is a Gudzowaty project that captures boys from slums in Mumbai playing the sport, with plastic
balls, and moulded iron rods serving as clubs, 2009
‘Urban Golf’ is a Gudzowaty project that captures boys from slums in Mumbai playing the sport, with plastic
balls, and moulded iron rods serving as clubs, 2009
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New York’s
Odisha-born Bibhu Mohapatra is one of the few Indian
couturiers to make it big in the Big Apple. Nolan Lewis,
who met the man when he was in Mumbai recently,
charts out his success story.
As poker-faced models sashayed down the runway dressed in
classic American aesthetic, it was hard to believe that it wasn’t
New York Fashion Week, but the launch of a jewellery collection in one
of South Bombay’s swanky hotels. New York-based fashion designer
Bibhu Mohapatra had chosen one of India’s fashion capitals to unveil the
Artemis Collection, a limited edition of diamond jewellery, a collaboration
between him and Forevermark. The models were wearing gowns from
Mohapatra’s Fall-Winter collection, and the haute couture was rounded
— bracelets, danglers, ear studs and necklaces — each engraved with
celestial inscriptions of the moon, stars and heavenly constellations.
shoulder monotone gown, fringed with trails of gold, and simple ear-
drops accented by a chunky jewellery watch. When Sachin Jain, President,
Forevermark India, addressed the audience, he said that the collection was
named after the Greek lunar goddess Artemis, whose name translates to
‘incorrigible’ or ‘invincible’. The words somehow also seemed descriptive
of the spirit of the small town boy from Odisha who went on to New York
and became a global name in fashion, who is one of the India designers
to have styled icons like Michelle Obama, Oprah Winfrey, Jennifer Lopez
and Eva Longoria.
DIAMOND IN THE ROUGHBorn in the small Oriya town of Rourkela, Mohapatra’s aptitude for
needlework made itself apparent as early as the age of 12, when he began
toying with his mother’s sewing machine. Everyone ranging from cousins
to family friends shrieked in delight every time he sewed them a dress in
his growing years; even as an amateur, he was more creative in his design
than even the best seamstresses of Rourkela. The talent notwithstanding,
his childhood days were more disheartening than anything else, as he
is Odisha was studying either to be a doctor or engineer. For a man to
contemplate a career in design was unthinkable. The mere suggestion
that are far too personal to be revealed in an interview.
But, in the midst of this creative crisis, Mohapatra’s parents remained
his beacons of light. They understood that, while his pursuits were
far ahead of the times in small, dusty Rourkela, his ingenuity would be
recognised elsewhere.
ROUGH SKETCHESFashion designing hadn’t been a formal career choice in India back then,
let alone Rourkela. The alternatives screamed at Mohapatra from the
Desi DesignerNew York’s
One of Mohapatra’s
sketches
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FASHION
television, newspapers and magazines. Mohapatra immediately knew
he had to migrate and the choice was fairly simple. It had to be the
Mecca of world fashion, the city of New York. Following the advice of
his pragmatic father who, despite being supportive of his dreams,
to complete a Masters in Economics. And there he made ends meet by
working as a janitor on campus. Yet, with his eye on his goal, he was
able to secure a scholarship to study fashion at the Fashion Institute of
The leap of faith proved lucrative. Mohapatra was hired by the
house of Halston, a womenswear label that emerged on New York’s
fashion landscape when Roy Halston Frowick made a name for himself by
designing hats. Roy designed the hat that Jacqueline Kennedy wore to her
husband’s presidential inauguration in 1961. Even though hats eventually
went out of style, Halston’s label did not, and the house seamlessly
transitioned into designing mainstream clothing.
Another major design label picked up Mohapatra, recognising his
talent: J Mendel, the renowned bridal couture and fur coat label, hired
still visible in Mohapatra’s creations. In the decade that Mohapatra worked
there and grew to the position of Design Director, he learnt how to handle
the technical knowhow needed to launch a design label.
Mendel’s, circulating his designs to editors and celebrities came naturally.
porter, couture and fur under his name in New York, Mumbai, Frankfurt,
Beijing, and New Delhi. His collections are sold by Bergdorf Goodman in
Lane Crawford in China, and other boutiques around the world.
RULING THE RUNWAYAmidst a plethora of labels that clash to rule New York’s runways, it is
trim an aqua silk column with gold titanium or make a coat out of woven
eccentric but not deviant enough to defy American sensibilities. None of
Mohapatra’s clothes are cherubic, though; there is something very regal From Mohapatra’s Fall-Winter 2016 collection
One of Mohapatra’s signature gowns
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not the Lolita.
Mohapatra says that he isn’t fascinated at all by the stereotypical
more than a fair share of iconic stars and models but has also draped
unconventional beauties like (as previously
mentioned) Oprah Winfrey and Michelle Obama.
“Dressing someone up isn’t about looking at
His seasonal collections often have a
de résistance. British-Irish artist Daphne
Guinness underlined his debut collection;
Schwarzenbach, China’s Empress Dowager
been some of his previous point of references. While he has designed for
so many famous women, the one stylista he fantasises about dressing up
is Bollywood’s Rekha.
INDIAN AT HEARTWhile most couturiers win over patronage of their native land before
going international, it has been the opposite for
Mohapatra. Le Mill has stocked his label since
what the nation has in store. His appearances
on India’s fashion map have only gained
momentum recently, with national beauties
Sonam Kapoor sporting his couture, lately.
“I am the one with a Western mind and an
Indian heart. I’m trained in the West for the
Mohapatra says that he isn’t fascinated at all by the stereotypical pin-up girl
With actors Leven Rambin and Waris Ahluwalia, novelist Salman Rushdie, and producer Shruti Ganguly, at the Bibhu Mohapatra
Fall 2016 fashion show during New York Fashion Week:
Artemis Collection, a limited edition of diamond jewellery, is borne out of a collaboration
between Mohapatra and Forevermark
With actors Leven Rambin and Waris Ahluwalia, novelist Salman Rushdie, and producer Shruti Ganguly, at the Bibhu Mohapatra
Fall 2016 fashion show during the New York Fashion Week
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South Africa’s N1 Highway, which
cuts through Limpopo and ends at
the Kruger National Park, introduces
you to an untamed country, dotted
with lush baobab and cycad forests,
and home to its indigenous people.
By Deepali Nandwani
How can a tree trunk hold an entire bar, I thought, as I walked
across grassland of the pristine Limpopo Province bushveld
to the humungous 6,000-year-old baobab tree, with gnarled,
knotted trunk and roots.
tree, next to The Sunland Farm in the Modjadjiskloof region of Limpopo,
is the largest of its species in the world, with a massive 47 metre
circumference and a height of 22 metres. And if that wasn’t amazing
enough, it is also possibly one of the oldest — carbon dating has placed
it at 6000 years old.
In 1993, van Heerdens, the owners of Sunland farm, turned their
Big Baobab into a bar, complete with beautiful wooden benches, a sound
system, dartboards, an outdoor restaurant area, and even a wine cellar.
Indoor seating can accommodate 15 people, but the van Heerdens
claim to have once hosted a party of 60 under the tree! Extravagant
South African weddings are held under the shade of this large tree and
the farm forms an ideal base for exploring the surrounding area — the
Modjadjiskloof Cycad Forest, the Magoebaskloof hills and forest, the
verdant area of Tzaneen and more.
This is my second day in the region and already I have encountered
some interesting sights on this ancient road. In this three day sojourn, I
explored Limpopo’s wild outback, home to tribal villages and sweet little
towns, the W country and its wild elephants, and the Kruger National Park,
the largest game reserve in the country.
DAY 1, 10.30AM
India, to Polokwane, the capital city of Limpopo. South African Airways
and South Africa had torrential winter rains.
The propeller plane had landed with a thud in what seemed like the
backyard of someone’s house. A three-second walk, and I was outside the
airport and it took me another second to reach the van that would take
us on further journey to The Ranch, a popular family owned Game Park.
Polokwane is a sparsely populated town, 269 km from Pretoria, the
capital of South Africa, from where, once, the Pretoria regime ruled a
country sharply divided on race lines. Most people here work in chrome
mines and mining tourism is a big draw for travellers looking for that
This road is meant for a biker, I thought, as the Toyota Coach cruised
down a smooth stretch on the N1 highway, which cuts through the heart
The Savannah Diaries
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TRAVEL
of Polokwane. Fringed by lush grasslands and stunted trees, it curves at
spots, rises over the mountainous parts and then dips gently. The Ranch is
The elegant game lodge has an English countryside look — a white
and yellow building with high ceiling, high-backed chairs and paintings
of gorgeous African women on the walls. I walk through the manicured
gardens to my room, which overlooks the grasslands and the Afrikaans
bushveld, covered by acacia and baobab tree.
potatoes eaten on a sunny outer deck, I hop onto the military truck, which
is used for lion safaris. Game reserves like The Ranch sprawl over 1,000
acres and hold licences to rear wild animals. This is a land that feeds on and
from succulent zebra meat to little worms is relished. Little knick knacks
that you pick up — tribal drums, bags, even trinkets — are made from
animal fur.
Graeme Bristow, the man who runs The Ranch, says, “Here, we
research animals and train them for the movies. We bring in orphaned lion
act in documentaries.” And all these years I had thought that the stunning
shots of animals running through the beautiful and savage Kenyan and
South African countryside, seen in shows aired on various TV channels,
A drive down a mud path brings me to the Albanian double-hooved
buck, a beautiful white creature lounging in his 700m wide enclosure,
surrounded by two white females. A little ahead, far in the distance, I
themselves, hemmed in by a wire that carries 1,000 watts of electricity,
lounging, playing, sleeping. They look up curiously; some walk up to their
Gawky tourists are a regular feature in these parts.
A little ahead is another enclosure, where Frank decides to bust some
of our myths. He hangs a few pieces of raw meat on a long bamboo pole,
swings it right up and grins, “You thought lions cannot climb trees?” Three
agile lions clamber onto the trees in the enclosure and make an attempt to
up to claim it. Awed by the show, I walk ahead to an enclosure that houses
a hyena, Schizo, named so “because he thinks he is a lion”, Frank tells me.
“He grew up with them.”
and a soft orange glow covers the ethereally beautiful Savannahs. I watch
my guides gulp down a meal of Pap Stew (a bland porridge made from
ground maize) and Ox Tail. I stick to my cheese laden pasta, a huge bowl
of rich creamy custard and a gooey brownie covered with cream, washed
down with a South African red.
DAY 2, ON ANCIENT AFRICAN IVORY ROUTE, 8.30 AMI had risen early, walked out to the little porch behind my room and
the mountains and the rays slowly spreading their warm glow on the
Savannahs. This is truly a sun-kissed country.
The van speeds through a fast-changing landscape. The road from
Polokwane to the Olifants Valley, on the way to the Kruger National Park,
passes through a landscape that transforms from grasslands to alpine
forests and mountains. Also called the Great North Road, it connects
Polokwane to Pretoria, and then to the Zimbabwe border. Mountain ranges
rise suddenly and dramatically out of the bushveld plains. The sunlight is
the colour of molten gold. The van’s music system plays an ode to Nelson
Mandela, a peppy, happy number.
The guide book on Limpopo I had picked up tells me that I am on
the ancient African ivory route, also the elephant’s migration route, which
skirts the endless vistas of the African bush, before merging into the
alpine mountains and the park. Wild and untamed in parts, the route runs
Botswana, which border Kruger. The ivory route, once ruled by avaricious
ivory hunters and gold traders, is now popular with safari enthusiasts.
Over the next two days, we sight several herds of elephants — close to
water holes within the forest, next to the Olifants (the Bapedi tribe’s word
for ‘elephant’) River and even on the roadside. The Olifants Valley, through
which runs the river, is home to several old tribes. Large populations have
shifted base from villages to small towns and cities; the ones left behind
The Kruger National Park features a considerable number of elephants
Baobab trees dot the landscape in Limpopo; and (below) food and drinks under a baobab tree, next to The Sunland Farm in the Modjadjiskloof region of Limpopo
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dedicated to the tribe with the same name. An elderly lady, bent with age,
shows me around. The traditional Malapa village has been painstakingly
vu. They have red walls splattered with cow dung, wall paintings made
from rice paste and look as if they belong to Kutch’s desert landscape
back home.
DAY 2, RAIN QUEEN’S TERRAIN, 3.30 PMAfter a few swigs of South African beer, we hit the road to Mopani, a lazy
little town with a huge cycad forest. The reserve, home to the legendary
Rain Queens worshipped by South African tribes, is dark and wet. Around
me is a maze of stunted cycad trees that grow in clusters. Beyond the
mellow winter sun. When mist does not obscure your view, you can gaze
over the cycad forest, at the Kruger National Park in the distance. The
history is fascinating, but so is the view. Approximately 12 kms of well-
constructed walks drop from the cycad forest to the acacia and bushveld
below, inhabited by waterbuck, nyala, impala, bushbuck, and over 170
species of birds.
To wrap up the intensely African experience, we head to a small
village, home to the Bapedi tribe. Life within the villages has a certain
rhythm that has remained unbroken down centuries. It’s evening, and
women and kids are at the local water pump. There is bonhomie in the air;
some people bring out a meal of pap and stew for a communal meal. I take
hardened piece of glue. Dinner that night at the warm, Irish-style Coach
delicious white coloured pecan nuts.
DAY 3, AMARULA COUNTRY, 11.30 AMWe are sitting within the Amarula factory, a few kilometres outside
Tzaneen. Limpopo is called Amarula country; this is where they make the
airport, in pubs and in little department stores.
down my throat. At the heart of Amarula is the Marula fruit, also called the
elephant fruit, which grows wild in the forests. Obviously, Marula is the
elephant’s favourite food. “Now you know why these giants act so wild at
times,” laughs the guide who takes us through the process that goes into
down to Tzaneen, a small town that has a single market road dotted with
malls, which sell everything, from designer clothes to sunglasses. The
town was already buzzing when we got there. After a brief stroll down
one of the malls, I headed to the local bazaar. It was the weekly market
day, and little carts had been put up across the street, on which women
accessories made in China.
Suddenly Paul stopped, all excited, and gesticulated towards a stall,
upon buckets of dried, shrivelled-up worms, a delicacy in these parts. They
are cooked into a spicy curry or are eaten dried and pickled with a meal.
DAY 3, SEFAPANE LODGE, OUTSIDE KRUGER, 4.30 PMAll through the afternoon, I had been driven down a curvy mountain
road. I had stopped at the Baobab Bar and haled along the way to stare
at the intense green Olifant Valley. Deep within, I could see a little village
with red and white homes. I had also driven past several depressing
townships, built as black ghettos by the Pretoria regime, at the height of
the apartheid years. Fortunately, South Africa gave up on apartheid and
these sad townships lie deserted by the wayside. In post-apartheid South
Africa, lines between the white-dominated areas and the black townships
still exist, but the boundaries are increasingly blurring, evident from the
ritzy black townships being built close to the white-dominated residential
areas in Polokwane and Mopani.
Now here I am, sitting at one end of a long table laid out within
(Clockwise from top left) Limpopo is a nature lover’s delight; a tourist village in Mapungubwe; sunset during a game drive; a white lion at The
Ranch Conservatory; and rhinos at the Kruger National Park
Amarula is a cream liqueur made from African marula trees, which largely grow in the Limpopo and Mpumalanga regions
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lettuce and vegetable salad, washed down with a tall glass of watermelon
Aida, a buxom blonde from Holland, is my guide on the tour. At 5.30
in the evening, we drive along the road located within the chrome mines.
boat is waiting for us at the edge of the Olifant River, which is a brilliant
blue in colour. It originates in Johannesburg, runs through the Kruger
groves located along its banks. Kruger National Park’s dramatic landscape
spawns mountains, bush plains, lush tropical forests and six huge rivers,
and the Olifant is the second biggest.
The water isn’t very deep, and along the 5 km cruise, we spot hippos
that make their way to the river bank for a drink and a bath. An elephant
mamma looks nervous as the boat glides to a halt close to where she
we head back.
temperature has dropped to about 5 degrees and the chill is eating into
my bones. Juan Schuite, a ranger, is our guide. After driving for about 15
minutes, he pulls over, near a massive termite hill, and asks us to wait till
the sun goes down. “There is a possibility we may be attacked if we move
around during the dusk hours,” he says. We are a group of six and he hands
An animal’s eyes shine in the light, making it easier to locate him.”
The horizon beyond is dark and dusky; the terrain is rugged,
surrounded by huge mines. The forest is interspersed with grasslands
dominated by huge bulbous baobab trees. There aren’t too many big
sightings. But we do see herds of elephants — some walking backwards,
innumerable birds.
That night, dinner is peppered with stories of how refugees walk by
night from Zimbabwe, through Kruger, into South Africa. They brave wild
animals and many get killed, like these two gentlemen who were mauled
by a lion and then left on the edge of the Phalaborwa town, where the
Sefapane Lodge is located. South Africa, with its stable polity and growing
governments of the three countries that border Kruger are in talks for
creating a conservation zone, a huge national park without any borders.
You will see wild animals walk through the mines without being harmed,
or harming anyone. In Phalaborwa, though we live in close contact, animal-
The only time they attack you, he says, is when you encroach into
their terrain.
An hippo walking across the Crocodile River in the Kruger National Park
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A pioneering boulderer and his utopia
Zangerl trying the beginning moves on a new boulder during an expedition in
the Himalayas, India, in 2015
Austrian Bernd Zangerl, who has more
has made eight trips to the Indian
By Akhila Ranganna
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Bouldering 101
me and my friends to witness it.” Zangerl got tremendous support from
Zangerl climbing ‘Shangri-La’, in the Himalayas, in India, 2015
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Switzerland, in 2015; and Zangerl topping
Himalayas, in 2015
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Sunil Gawde is among the few conceptual artists
in India, and a sculptor. Over the years, Gawde
has moved far beyond his medium of choice,
abstract or pure painting, which was largely
two-dimensional, to create thought-provoking
kinetic sculptural and installation works. Yet, his
foundation in art, design and craft remains strong
as ever, and he uses them often, in seamless
consonance with mechanics and engineering, to
create art that is layered and textured, but which
also displays his own unique sense of humour.
This 56-year-old Sir J. J. School of Art and Glasgow
School of Art alumnus has shown his complex
sculptural works across the world. In an interview
with Deepali Nandwani, he talks about his
philosophy of minimalism, and his evolution.
Sunil Gawde is a JJ School of Art alumnus
centre of gravity on a tilted horizon. It was after this series that my abstract
I consider ‘Blind Bulb etc’ a breakthrough exhibition: it was a blend
of formal sculpture-installations and works of science or kinetics. Many
of them were just mechanical devices, which needed simple gears to
operate. One of the bulbs was sheer black, which is quite an odd thing
when you are talking, well, bulbs. If you want to understand life, you
need to withdraw into yourself, it seemed to say. Among the sculptural
installations was an interactive work — a pendulum crafted out of high
sheen steel. Every time the pendulum swung, the audience were able to
see themselves in the polished steel.
It was a very interactive exhibition. Art objects came alive to a gaze or
at it; a spring in the form of an earthworm that makes its way around the
pendulum; the moon phases that dip in and out of view on a darkened sky
map. ‘Blind Bulb’ spoke about the fragility of human hours, or even the
cast resin, and steel, which was either left dull or polished to a high sheen
That is a rather varied and diverse range of materials, and also materials
that are not easy to work with.
Yes, casting was quite tough, because you are putting resin in a cavity
remove the mould. Also, in a transparent bulb, you have to ensure that
no joints are visible. It almost takes six to seven years to create a suite of
I used mirrored acrylic sheets, stainless steel and iron. A kinetic sculpture
created using blades, there were holes punched or cut out into the
boundaries, and I should have the freedom to use any medium or material
as long as it supports the concept.
Your kinetic sculptural work, which has got more sophisticated over
the years, found its logical extension in the work you sent to the Venice
Biennale. Tell us a bit about that.
Alliteration is a huge two-and-a-half tonne, 7.5x15.2 feet, installation
that deals with my concept of time. I have always been fascinated by
this concept. We have divided our life into seconds, minutes, hours,
days, months and years and are now slave to that system. But we do
not understand the real value of time. I subtitled it ‘28 moons’; it had a
perforated wall were seven belt-driven wheels. While the number 28
stands for number of days in a lunar month, the work was not bound by
any astronomical pattern. The wheels, and correspondingly the moons,
that our entire idea of time goes completely haywire. It (the sculpture)
forces you to think about living in the present time. I used engineering
Geometryas poetry
showed kinetic sculptural works at Sakshi Art Gallery?
To answer that question, I will have to trace the trajectory of my work
over the past few years. The seeds for the Sakshi exhibition were sowed
at the Jehangir Art Gallery in Mumbai. I added some twist and turns and
created humour out of everyday objects and situations. It was my attempt
The objects were also my attempt to portray ‘navarasa’, or the nine Indian
emotions, using humour. It was an oblique way of thinking. I went back
to painting with my next show, again at Sakshi, called ‘1 mm’, which
consisted of minimal, clean abstract monochromatic paintings. That was
the pinnacle of my achievement as a pure painter. Minimalists like me
tend to focus on the content, instead of focussing on the fringe elements.
For a while, I concentrated on paintings, once in a while working
nature; they are almost sculptural in their form. In another series, ‘8
Seconds Ahead of Time’, again at Sakshi Gallery, Bangalore, each work was
a set of several canvasses placed at close sequence of progression, and
(From left) glass and wood; and Virtually Untouchable I, a mobile sculpture (2004)
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ART
to prove that the human mind has a certain kind of tunnel processing
and waning characterises the life cycle of individuals and empires, alike.
However, my work is multi-layered and stimulates, I believe, more than
one train of thought. So, ultimately it’s the viewer who is left to take away
his own interpretation of the work. ‘Like Heart Beat, Beat Heart’, a work I
showed in a group show in Mumbai. There was a wooden heart, and there
were others which had nails embedded in them. I burnt them, I scraped
them, I destroyed them to quite an extent,
and left it to the viewer to take what he
or she wants from this process. It was a
subversion of the popular image of the red
heart we are used to seeing.
What was the point at which you began
using engineering or mechanics as a
device in your sculptural installations?
To me, the concept is more important
than the means. So engineering is a tool I
use to express my concepts of movement
and time. But the use of engineering or
mechanical concepts is interesting in my
work, because personally, I am not a very
logical person, whereas engineering is all
about logic. It started with ‘Blind Bulb etc’, but now my work is largely
conceptual in nature. Of course, this means that the nature of my
individuals who understand mechanics and engineering, who can advise
me on structural issues and material stress. Of course, like most Indians,
they are used to working in a set pattern, so one has to continuously push
them to create something new, to push the boundaries of their own work
so that, together, we can achieve the right form for my concepts.
How do you arrive at the form you are going to use to express the
concept?
I believe the form should be simple or minimal. As I have always said, I
love to turn geometry into poetry. Geometry is the most basic form and
can be quite boring, but the moment you add poetry to the form, it comes
alive. So if had to draw a circle and at the centre write, or paint, ‘myself’,
and title the painting, ‘Self-Centred’, it would automatically turn into my
portrait; it doesn’t remain just a circle. I think as an artist I have the quality
to manipulate forms and shapes in the way I want. For ‘Ghost in the Bottle,’
a 2007 sculptural, I got huge-sized Borosil bottles, and distorted them. It
consists of a number of 2ft bottles in assorted shapes, which are mirror-
coated from the inside. These shapes represent the force of suppressed
thoughts that, like a ghost, are pressing to come out of the mind.
What I do next is always unpredictable, but the fun lies in that sense of
unpredictability. Every time there is a block, and I feel cornered, I use my
intuition to decide which wall to break so I can branch out. So many ideas
come to my mind almost every day, but there is that one idea that stays
with me, or gives me sleepless nights, attracts me the most, which I turn
medium and the process I use to create a work of art. I don’t like being
repetitive. So sometimes, I fall back on engineering, at other times I even
use crafts as a medium.
razor blades pasted on the wing, which moved mechanically, was not just
about mechanics. I made it for the ‘Blind Bulb etc’ series; I found the right
people to paste the blades on the body of the art work, and then we slowly
packed in hundreds of red powder-coated razor blades in the shape of
heavy garlands that are associated with the ceremonial public culture — of
gods and politicians being garlanded — in the south of India. But to Indians
of a certain generation, this work would also recall the assassination of
Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi by the LTTE. The bomb was concealed in a
medium to use here. My work, over the years, has gotten more minimal in
the way it is conceived, but there are layers and layers of meaning hidden
in its simple exterior.
There is a lot of philosophy embedded in your art…
As an artist my concerns are perception and reality. My work could be seen
as a means to bridge the gap. There is philosophy, but there is also humour
and history and a certain graphic quality. I research, I learn during the
creation of a work of art, and it often changes my perception. For instance,
while researching a project for Rajeev Sethi, I read about both, Lord Shiva,
and about Galileo’s discovery of the phenomenon of planetary satellites in
the solar system. I feel my sense of scale was transformed by this reading.
could not look at the sky in the same way, afterwards.
From Gawde’s ‘Still Alive’ series
‘Blind Bulb etc’ (2004/05) marked a shift in Gawde’s ouevre, from abstract paintings to kinetic sculptures and installations
Gawde with his ‘Vicious Circle’ installation
‘Almost Untouchable III’ communicated the idea of how violence can burst out unexpectedly from anywhere
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THE LEELA MAGAZINE | 76 | MONSOON 2016
Painter Surendra Pal Joshi’s artwork Basant (the spring season) adorns the reception
area at The Leela Palace Chennai. In the middle of the painting is the Pai Paisa, a
pre-Independence bronze coin with a hole in the centre, dating back to the ‘40s. This
painting expresses the fact that India is currently experiencing its Spring, having come
a long way from the days of the Pai Paisa, to its present strong economy. The yellow
as poet Amir Khusrow’s verses on sarson (mustard).
SNAPSHOT
A metaphor for India
I started cooking when I was four, with my mom
was 10 years ago, at the restaurant Villa Elisa as
a commis (junior chef).
modern minimal cuisine.
A guest requested me to make a dish which was
and avocado, when I was working at a famous
The three tools that I can’t do without are
Before cooking something, you should know the
Lorenzo Severeni
foods you are using — touch, smell and taste,
even if it is raw. It will make you understand
and classic food remake in a modern key.
Le Cirque Signature at The Leela Mumbai serves a
mix of Italian and French cuisines
The Leela Palace Udaipur
weekend out of the city every month with my
wife. I never forget my Kindle, although many
when you arrive at the hotel, it is time
hot day and after having travelled across
Adviser to the Vice-President, Minister for the Presidency and
Spokesperson of the Government of Spain
even some drinks and cold water. That is very
for a room service dinner. We had amazing
from our room, and the dinner was very
and wine, and the outstanding service.
romantic and welcoming cities that I have ever
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This season, The Leela Kovalam
has three specially crafted
Ayurvedic packages that will
detoxify and recharge you.
(Above) The Leela Kovalam’s Divya Spa boasts eight treatment rooms (Left) A Shirodhara massage at Divya Spa
The Yoga Studio at The Leela Kovalam
Holistic Rejuvenation
based on the aforementioned Tridosha theory. Body massages use
natural herbal powders and Ayurvedic medicines are prescribed for
consultation with the doctor and the chef.
THE THERAPEUTIC PACKAGE
The most intensive of the programmes, it lasts for three weeks.
This programme addresses ailments related to rheumatoid arthritis,
spondylitis, migraine, and heals lower back pain. Treatments depend on
the recommendations made by the doctor post consultation.
Each of these packages takes an holistic approach and sticks to
the Ayurvedic roots. The ancient Indian science of Ayurveda is a time-
tested healing system, and The Leela Kovalam an excellent place to
experience it.
Ayurveda is among the oldest healthcare systems in the world,
and Kerala is a state known for its long and unbroken Ayurvedic
practitioners of Ayurveda) were almost the only access for people seeking
now, Ayurveda is more than about medicines: it’s a lifestyle symbolising
wholesome physical, mental and spiritual health.
Ayurveda tourism is a thing when it comes to Kerala, drawing both
travellers from other parts of India as well as abroad, and Ayurvedic
treatments are a big draw at The Leela Kovalam, a secluded resort spread
view of the Arabian Sea. The elegantly done Divya Spa at the resort features
Kalari massage. This massage evolved as an adjunct to the martial art
Kalaripayattu. The ancient martial art required a tough and supple body,
and the warriors used kalari massage to not just recuperate from aches
doctors at Divya Spa — all of them trained in Ayurveda — recommend this
This season, The Leela Kovalam has three specially crafted
comprehensive packages to recharge your mind and body. They are not
just about enjoying massages at the spa — they include interactions with
a chef and a doctor for wellness and diet consultations, wellness talks, and
THE LIFESTYLE PACKAGEA seven-day relaxation and rejuvenation plan, using herbal oils and
medicines, which nourishes the body tissues. These massages and
recommended for best results.
THE WELLNESS PACKAGEA two-week program designed to tone the body and improve the
programme also includes weight management treatments based on the
principle that losing weight is not about starvation but balancing the
fat metabolism. Therapies are tailormade to suit the body’s constitution
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RETREATS
Th
instant online restaurant reservation platform) Foodie Awards 2016:
the hotel’s Le Cirque bagged ‘Vir’s Critic’s Choice Award’, by renowned
food critic Vir Sanghvi, for ‘Best European Restaurant in a Hotel’, and the
tea at The Lobby Lounge was voted as the ‘Best Brewed’ in the capital
the celebrated New York restaurant, serving an eclectic mix of French and
Italian cuisines. The ceremony was hosted by standup comic Papa CJ, and
featured celebs and who’s who of the industry, from cricketer Yuvraj Singh
to restaurateurs Riyaz Amlani and AD Singh.
Critical acclaim
World-class dining
Nancy NovogrodFormer Editor, Travel & Leisure
Kenneth ChenaultCEO and Chairman, American Express
Amjad Ali KhanIndian classical musician
Sachin TendulkarLegendary
Indian cricketer
The Leela Palace Bangalore
“Thank you for a most enjoyable stay.
The service was outstanding.”
The Leela Palace Chennai
“Felt at home. Beautiful hotel and hospitality.
Best wishes and looking forward to coming
back again.”
The Leela Palace Udaipur
“What an extraordinarily,
beautiful and magical palace hotel. The
service matches with the physical perfection.
All considered, the Leela Palace Udaipur is
a triumph!”
The Leela Palace New Delhi
“Fantastic stay and warm hospitality.
Thanks for all the love. I will be back soon.”
The Leela Ambience Convention Hotel, Delhi hosted the Global
Leadership Forum in March this year, as part of the World Culture
Festival, a celebration of The Art of Living Foundation’s 35 years of service
to humanity. Top leaders from private as well as public sector came
together to discuss the dillemas and challenges of leadership. Inaugurating
the forum, Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, Founder of WFEB, Global Humanitarian and
Founder, Art of Living, said, “A leader always walks the last, and makes
everyone move ahead. A leader is not meant to create followers, but rather
create leaders.” Many accomplished personalities, like Suresh Prabhu,
Kjell Magne Bondevik, former Prime Minister of Norway, spoke about the
obstacles they had overcame in their journey to success.
Leadership for the 21st century
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ACCOLADES
Jamavar at The Leela Palace Chennai has been recognised as one of the
Distinguished Restaurants by the Rochester Institute of Accreditation,
New York. KM Chengappa, GM of the property, and Executive Chef
Dharmen Makawana received this award from Mr Hashmim, MD of
customer satisfaction at the signature Indian restaurant.
GUEST SPEAK
EVENTS
The brand’s new-age,
all-device responsive website is now live.
www.theleela.com
Tavailable rate (vis-a-vis all other online channels). Rates are calibrated to incentivise
and nowhere else.
streams, and the new website is a big step in that direction.
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and celebrated environmentalist, the late Capt. C.P Krishnan Nair,
The ‘Remembrance Day’ poster
Plantation 2016: Shridhar Nair, GM, The Leela Mumbai team planting a plumeria tree saplingsaplings with the employees of the hotel
A green tribute
T
‘Way back in the day before social media became the norm,
Myspace used to be quite big with the hipsters. I used to
be interested to come to the country to collaborate on an album. At
seriously but when I got a message from them asking me to record a
few Indian chants and send it over, I obliged.
Months later, I remember it was snowing that day, I was surprised
a Sonu Nigam album, but educated me about what a big name he was
in Bollywood. I started researching Indian music and was fascinated
gauge the opportunities here.
When I returned back to Toronto, I was on the verge of relocating
to Italy to consider building a musical career there. I knew I had to
return to India though, something about this country kept pulling me
back. I also met Sonuji backstage after a concert in Toronto, and he
encouraged me to give returning to India a second thought.
the crowds thronging on the streets. Not that they seemed dangerous
or anything but seeing so many people gathered together was a
completely new experience for me. I just stayed indoors so I could suck
it all in.
What strikes me most about India is that the emotional bonds here
are so strong. When I got here everyone was so welcoming – inviting
me into their homes and feeding me big meals. Coming from a world
that is structured and scheduled, I notice that people here genuinely
make time for each other and are very spontaneous in their planning!
The value for friends and family is so much more. You could live in the
most beautiful country in the world, but if its people are cold, none of
that matters…
Since I grew up training in
western classical music, the joke
is that I rarely sing in English.
French and English. The people
here often wonder how I sing
in Hindi or Tamil, but the truth
is the process is just the same.
Every time I had to sing a piece
in a foreign language, I had a
diction coach, I drew a picture or
visual for every word association my mind had to make. Singing in a
foreign language thus became easy. Singing in Indian languages was
an application of that technique.
is a Canadian crossover-classical
multilingual singer who now calls Mumbai home. She has
lent her soprano voice to several Bollywood movies like English Vinglish, Chennai Express and has collaborated with musical stalwarts like A.R. Rahman and
Sonu Nigam.
Canadian singer talks about life
in Mumbai, and learning to sing in Hindi and Tamil.
The Bollywood Soprano
PERSPECTIVE
As told to Nolan Lewis
The city has crafted a name
for itself when it comes
like Raghavendra
Rathore have given a
contemporary spin to the
legendary bandh gala.
traditional jewellery. Clock
is a local market where
from traditional clothes,
crockery, pottery and
other souvenirs that
Rajasthan is famous for.
Handicrafts are widely
available around the
forget to pick a pair of
jutis (for men) or colourful
bangles (for women). The versatile safa loom can be used to create bright
colourful shamianas (tents) and used as head gear during festivities.
Bawari, the restored exemplary Raas Haveli, and Hanwant Mahal to soak
public park. Take a walk at the Balsamand Lake Palace, an elongated bagh
(garden) that engulfs the acres of land, and one of the widely visited
royal family, crafted in white marble and instantly catches the eye of
an onlooker. The Mehrangarh Fort, which has witnessed numerous wars
for its intricate jaali work, mammoth walls and a gargantuan haathi pol
or entrance.
around Mehrangarh Fort, grab a chilled beer at the fort restaurant, which is
paired best with Bikaneri Bhujia.
Luxury interior designer and architect Shantanu Garg tells us
the must-dos in the city of Jodhpur.
Colourful Rajasthan
designer and architect has worked on
Stosa Cucine showrooms, Trunks Company Lounge in Mumbai and
in merging the traditional with the contemporary. A recent project of his
Moroccan and modern design.
Inside the Mehrangarh Fort
GET
TY IM
AG
ES
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