the construction process by which pattern pieces, materials, and trims are merged into a finished...

Production Processes and Quality Assurance

What and Why

Production:– The construction process by which pattern pieces, materials,

and trims are merged into a finished apparel product.

Cost of production– Affected by product design and pattern– Affected by the process

Designers and pattern makers need production knowledge

Manufacturing Environments

Mass productionShort-cycle production Mass customizationWhich one depends on– Product type– Replenishment strategy

Mass production

Very large quantitiesEconomies of scaleStaple productsLow fashion riskBased on in-store replenishmentSeasonal and staple good demand is easier to forecast.

Allows for longer lead timesCan source off-shore and save on laborMexico and CB

Short-cycle Production

Producst produced closer to time of market demandHigh fashion goodsShort selling seasons (6-8 weeks)No intention of in-store replenishmentAsia– Fabric availability– Skill levels

Mass Customization

Short cycle manufacturing to an individual consumerAll the newest technologies– Body scanning– Pattern alteration software– Virtual try-on– Ink jet fabric printing

Involves the customization of fit, design and personalizationProduct already designed– Customer “customizes the product”

Fit customization– Difference between the standard and the customers

needed adjustments– Body scanning

Design customization– Fabric– Sleeve– Color

Personalization– More than just initial

Advantages– Reducing inventories– Minimizing returns– Reducing distribution costs– Customer relations– Brand loyalty– Consumer research

Production Sewing Systems

Single-handed– Samples and prototypes– Couture

Progressive Bundle– Common– Bundles rolled from one machine to another– Piece rate pay– High level of WIP– Bottle necks with varying speeds

Unit production system (UPS)– Garment parts fed on over head conveyors

• One garment at a time– Cross training– Reduced operator handling time– Equipment investment

Flexible Manufacturing Systems (FM)– Modular manufacturing– Self directed work teams– Entire garments– Paid on quantity and quality

Factors– Downtime very critical– Investment in training– Support from management– Cultural change– Employees need to think and perform differently– Increase in quality– Reduction of WIP

Agile manufacturing– Uses all the newest technologies– Mass customization– Flexibility in process

Combination of systems

Developments

Faster industrial machinesSpecialized machinesStandup sewingEquipment maintenance is criticalNoise and air pollutionComputerized sewing machinesrobotics

CAD/CAM

Computer aided manufacturing– Increase speed and accuracy of

• Pattern making• Market making• Grading• Cutting sewing

Improved product qualityReduced production timeDiversified product line

CIM

Computerized Integrated Manufacturing– Everything is linked– Smooth flow of information– Linkages to CAD/CAM

• Costing efficiencies• Spec sheet development• Numerically controlled stitching machines•

Production Process

Determine the process that is most efficient and cost effectiveConstruction specifications– Sewing sequence– Fusing interfacing– Applying embellishment– Pressing– Hang tags– Folding– Packaging

Considerations– Equipment capabilities– Labor costs– Subcontracting– What can be done prior to sewing process?

Problems– Procurement of materials

• Fabric, zippers• Subcontractors• International sourcing issues

Finishing

Pressing and packagingAdding labels and bar codes– Floor ready merchandise

RFIC– Radio frequency ID chip

Fabric– Laundering– Stonewash– Pre shrink– Garment dyed

Quality Assurance

Meets the standardsASTM and AATCCAdhere to spec sheetsFabric inspection– On-grain– Dye lots

Sewing and finishing– Stitches– Seams– Edges– Button holes– Hems– Plaid matching

Finishing– Thread trimming– Closure placement– Shoulder pads– Linings– Pressing

What if they don’t meet standards– Refuse shipment

• May not be able to replace• Stock outs

– Seconds in outlet stores

Logistics Agents

Export agent– Assists with exporting product out of contracted

country

Freight forwarding company– Move goods from country of production into the US

Customer broker– Help with customs