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SLIP ON ICE, NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn M arch 29, 1981, a large group from a University Outdoor Pursuits Program were climbing Professor Falls, a waterfall on the lower slopes of M ount R undle near Banff. The route consists of a series of short steep pitches with flat steps in between. One of the party, a woman (26), had almost completed climbing the third step and was walking up a low-angle slope toward other members of the party. Since she was simply walking up easier terrain, the belay was discontinued. She slipped on a small bulge of ice and began to slide down the slope. T he climbing rope attached to her was unattended and she fell back over the third pitch, falling 50 feet and landing on the next ice platform. Luckily she received only a concussion, multiple lacerations and bad bruises. She was picked up from the site by wardens, using helicopter sling techniques. (Source: T . Auger, Banff National Park)

AnalysisT he victim was relatively inexperienced and essentially a student on this climb. T he conse­quences of a simple, unarrested slip on compact snow and ice are clearly illustrated here. A more experienced climber might be trusted to walk up such a slope unbelayed. Even then, if the belay rope was left running through a secure anchor, the leader might be able to collect the rope before a slip turned into a disaster. (Source: T . Auger, Banff National Park)