rocky mountain national park dayhiker's guide: a scenic guide to 33 favorite hikes including...

RockyMountainNationalParkDayhiker'sGuide

ASCENICGUIDETO33FAVORITEHIKESINCLUDINGLONGSPEAK

JEROMEMALITZ

JOHNSONBOOKSBoulder

title:RockyMountainNationalParkDayhiker'sGuide:AScenicGuideto33Favorite

HikesIncludingLongsPeakauthor: Malitz,Jerome.

publisher: JohnsonBooksisbn10|asin: 1555661106printisbn13: 9781555661106ebookisbn13: 9780585019666

language: English

subject

Hiking--Colorado--RockyMountainNationalPark--Guidebooks,RockyMountainNationalPark(Colo.)--Guidebooks.

publicationdate: 1993lcc: GV199.42.R62M351993ebddc: 796.51

subject:

Hiking--Colorado--RockyMountainNationalPark--Guidebooks,RockyMountainNationalPark(Colo.)--Guidebooks.

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmitted,inanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,orotherwise,withoutpriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData

Malitz,Jerome,1936-RockyMountainNationalParkdayhiker'sguide:ascenicguideto33favoritehikesincludingLongsPeak/JeromeMalitz.1sted.p. cm.ISBN1-55566-110-61.HikingRockyMountainNationalPark(Colo.)Guidebooks.2.RockyMountainNationalParks(Colo.)Guidebooks.I.Title.GV199.42.R62M35 1993

917.88'69dc20 92-42538

FrontCoverPhotograph:TheLoch,byJeromeMalitzBackCoverPhotograph:TrailtoFinchLake,byJeromeMalitzDesignandTypesetting:ShadowCanyonGraphics,Evergreen,ColoradoMaps:TrailsIllustrated,P.O.Box3610,Evergreen,Colorado80439(800)962-1643ThemapsincludedinthisguidearefromTrailsIllustrated'sRockyMountainNationalParkmap,whichisforsaleatparkvisitorcenters.Itishighlyrecommendedthatthecompletemapbecarriedforallhikesinthisguide.Hikenumbersappearonthemapdenotingthedestinationorgeneralareaofthethirty-threehikesdescribedintheguide.

FirstEdition

23456789

PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmericabyJohnsonPrintingCompany1880South57thCourtBoulder,Colorado80301

WARNING:Hikinginmountainousterraincanbeahigh-riskactivity.Thisguidebookisnotasubstituteforyourexperienceandcommonsense.Theusersofthisguidebookassumefullresponsibilityfortheirownsafety.Weather,terrainconditions,andindividualabilitiesmustbeconsideredbeforeundertakinganyofthehikesinthisguide.

ContentsIntroduction 4

Preparations 5

SOUTHEASTTrailsNearLongsPeak 19

1FinchLake 20

2CalypsoCascadesandOuzelFalls 23

3OuzelLake 28

4EstesCone 31

5ChasmLake 34

6LongsPeak 37

7TwinSistersMountain 43

NORTHEASTTrailsFromGlacierGorgeJunction 47

8AlbertaFalls 48

9MillsLake 51

10BlackLake 56

11TheLoch 58

12TimberlineFalls,LakeofGlass,SkyPond 61

NORTHEASTTrailsFromBearLake 67

13BearLake,DreamLake,EmeraldLake 68

14LakeHaiyaha 72

15OdessaLake 75

16HallettPeak 78

17BierstadtLake 82

NORTHEASTOtherThanGlacierGorgeorBearLake 85

18CubLake 86

19FernFallsandFernLake 90

20GemLake 94

21YpsilonLake 97

22DeerMountain 100

23OldUteTrailTrailRidgeRoadtoBeaverMeadow 102

24Chapin,Chiquita,andYpsilonMountains 105

NORTHWESTTrailsNearPoudreLake 109

25Shorttundrahikes 110

26OldUteTrailTrailRidgeRoadtoPoudreLake 112

27TheCrater 116

28ColoradoRiverTrailtoLuluCityandLittleYellowstone

29TimberLake 123

SOUTHWESTTrailsNearGrandLake 127

30ColumbineBay 128

31ShadowMountain 132

32AdamsFalls 135

33OnahuTonahutuGreenMountainTrailLoop 138

Bibliography 141

Index 142

AcknowledgementsMythankstomywifeSuzy,whoaccompaniedmeonnearlyallofthehikesdescribed,kindlingmyenthusiasmorcounselingpatienceasthesituationrequired.Shealsohelpedwiththeeditingandwordprocessing.Someofherphotosappearonpages95and131.

AndtomylongtimefriendandcolleagueRichardHolley,whojoinedmeonsomeofthelongerhikes,andcontributedseveralphotographstotheproject(seepages40and41).Dickandhisstrawsombrerogivescaletomanyofthescenespictured.

AndtothefinefolksatTrailsIllustratedwhosemapoftheparkisanindespensiblecompanioninanyhiker'spack.

Andtothemanyparkrangerswhosopatiently,unselfishly,andcheerfullysharedtheirknowledgeandexperiencewithme.

Andtothoseparkpersonnelwhoreadthemanuscriptandofferedmanyinvaluablesuggestionsandcorrections.

Toalltheseandmanymore,mygratitudeandthanks.

AspenmidwaytolakefromtheBierstadtLaketrailhead

PrefaceRockyMountainNationalParkisoneofourgreatestscenictreasures.Withinitsboundaryaresomeofthemostmagnificentpeaks,alpinelakes,andhigh-countryvalleystobefoundanywhereonthecontinent.Soitisnotsurprisingthatmillionsofpeoplecometotheparkeachyear.Andthereisnobetterwaytoenjoythescenerythanonfoot,strollingthroughameadowawashwithwildflowers,orwalkingacrossthesun-drenchedalpinetundra,orhikingthroughsomeshadyforestuptotimberlineandthenontosomegrandsummitwithaviewoverthousandsofsquaremiles.

Inwordsandphotographs,thisbookdescribessomeofthebestday-hikesinRockyMountainNationalPark,emphasizingnotonlythedestinationofthehike,buttheremarkablefeaturesyouseealongtheway.

ExceptforthehiketoLongsPeak,thehikesdescribedhererequirelessthan4,000feetofelevationgainandatotalround-tripdistanceofnomorethan10miles.Allclimatezonesandterraintypesintheparkcanbeexperiencedwithintheselimits.

Thebookbeginswithafewwordsaboutthegeology,flora,fauna,andhistoryoftheregion.Thetreatmentisbrief,andisintendedtoenticethereaderintofurtherpursuingthesefascinatingtopicsapursuitguaranteedtoincreasethepleasureofvisitingthepark.

Thereisageneraldescriptionoftheclimateandsomesuggestionsonwhattowearandwhattocarry.Althoughthereareveryfewhazardsassociatedwithhikingthesetrails,somefreeadviceisofferedonhowtoavoidthem.

Themajorityofthebookisdevotedtotraildescriptionsanextendedinvitationtohikeintosomeofthemostmagnificentterrainonthe

planet.Wehopethatthereaderwillacceptthisinvitation,andwillfindthisbookhelpfulindecidingwhichtrailstotravel.

Happyhiking.

DreamLake,HallettPeak(left)andFlattopMountain

IntroductionAgrandtrainofnationalparksridesthecrestoftheRockiesfromCanadathroughtheUnitedStates:Jasper,Banff,Waterton,Glacier,Yellowstone,GrandTeton,andRockyMountainNationalParks.ThelastisColorado'scontributionandisthefocusofthisguide.RockyMountainNationalParkembracesapartoftheRockiesthatisbothmagnificentandhospitableandoffersanextraordinaryvarietyofhikingtrails.Thereareflat-landstrollsacrossflower-studdedvalleys,gentleclimbstoglaciersandalpinelakes,andsummitassaultstochallengethemostexperiencedmountaineer.

Fromvalleyfloortohighestsummit,theparkencompassesadifferenceinelevationof6,000feet.Eachgainof1,000feetbringsa3°Fdecreaseintemperatureaclimatechangeroughlyequivalenttothatexperiencedintraveling600milesnorthward.Theparkspansthreeclimatezones:montane(7,000to9,500feet),subalpine(9,500to11,000feet),andalpine(above11,000feet).Annualprecipitationvarieswithaltitude,asthemountainstrapthecloudsandwringmoisturefromthem:lessthan20inchesatthelowestelevation,towellover30atthehighestwithmoreonthewesternslopethanontheeastern.Themountainstunnelwindandfunnelwater;theycourtthesunontheirsouthwesternslopes,andoffermoreshadeonthenortheast.Allofthisproducesarichvarietyofmicroclimates,whichfostersawondrousdiversityofplantandanimalcommunities.

PlantsandAnimals

Theplantsrangefromthebizarretothebeautifulfromtheprimitiveredalgaegrowingonthesurfaceofglacialice,totheadvancedbutleaflesscoralrootorchidgrowinginsymbiosiswiththepines.Everyelevationboastsitsbotanicalgardens,andeventhehightundrais

carpetedwithflowersduringmostofthesummer.

Woodyplantsarewellrepresentedinthepark.Conifersareparticularlyabundant,andincludethestatelyponderosapine,thelodgepolepine,andthepicturesquelimberpinethatisfoundinthemostexposedreachesofthesubalpinezone.Douglasfiriscommon,andthetruefirsarerepresentedbythewhitefirandthesubalpinefirthelatter'supperrangedefiningtimberline,wherefiercewindsandheavysnowstwistandshearthemintoground-huggingshrubs.

Deciduoustreesandshrubscontributetheirownspecialbeautytothepark,particularlyinareasbelow9,500feet.Magnificentwillowsand

Coloradobluecolumbine

Gaillardia

Parryprimrose

Whitemarshmarigold

Groundsel

Cowparsnip

Mosscampion

Alpinedaisy

Northernpaintbrush

Horsemint

Wildrose

Scarletpaintbrush,pearlyeverlasting,wallflower,andothers

cottonwoodsimpartanestatelikequalitytothevalleysandstreamsides.Mountainash,likeitsEuropeanrelativethatissoadmiredinourgardens,hascloudsofwhiteflowersinthespring,andscarletberriesandfoliageinthefall.Mountainmapleandredriverbirchaugmenttheautumncolor,whilered-twiggeddogwoodsandseveralspeciesofshrubbywillowswithcopperyyellowtwigsenliventhewinterlandscape.

Thegreatcolorshowisstagedbythequakingaspen.Althoughacommonspecies,aspensgrowtouncommonsplendorinthispartofthecountry.StandsareMidas-touchedwithbrilliant,shimmeringgoldenyellowbymid-Septemberthecolorsetoffbytheblue-greenconifersintheircompany,thepurple-graymountains,anddeepblueskies.'HighCountryGold'theycallit,andgoldfeverdrawsvisitorsfromaroundtheworldtoseethespectacle.

Andthefaunafortheflora?Eventhecasualbirdwatcherislikelytobejoyfullyoverwhelmedbytheabundanceanddiversityofthepark'sfeatheredfinery.Fromgreatblueherontotinypinesiskin,frommajesticgoldeneagletoirrepressiblemountainchickadee,theyanimatethelandscapeinnumberandvariety.Ducksofadozendifferentspeciesarecommon,andoftenboldenoughtocomeashoretopanhandle.Clark'snutcracker,thegrayjay,andthemagnificentSteller'sjayareevenbolderandsoplentifulthattheycanbedelightfullypeskyatlunchtime.Assortedsparrows,warblers,wrens,andjuncosvieforattention;whiledaffydippers,madcaphummers,andhard-headedhammersareabitmorereserved.

Noristherealackofmammals.Coyote,fox,deer,andelkaremostlikelytobeobservednearsunsetinthevalleysatloweraltitudes.Bighornsheepcanappearatanytimeoftheday,particularlyathigherelevations.Makingtheirhomeinthehighestandmostdesolateregionsaretwooftheparksmostamusingcreaturesthepikaandthegolden-belliedmarmot.Thefirstisaneight-inchfreneticbundleoffur

withastubofatail,bigears,bigeyes,andabunnylikeappeal.Morecommon,orlessfurtive,isthemarmottwo-feetlong,builtlikealittlebear,short-tailedandstubb-eared.Insomelocations,suchastheshoreofChasmLake,themarmotisbrazenenoughtocrashanypicnicparty,makingahilariousnuisanceofitself.

Whereverthereisastreamatlowerelevations,youcanfindbeaverdamsandlodges,althoughthefurryengineersthemselvesareseldomseen.Andofcoursetherearechipmunksandsquirrelsscurryingabout,tryingtomindyourbusinessmorethantheirs.Bearsandmountainlionsmaketheirhomeinthepark,buttheyarefewinnumberandrarelyseen.Fewwillbedisappointedtolearnthattherearenopoisonoussnakes.

GeologicOrigins

Itisnotonlytheplantsandanimalsthatlurevisitorstothepark,butalsothespectacularbeautyofthelandscapeitself,asmagnificentapieceofalpinesceneryasthisplanethastooffer.Theparkhasbeenageologicallaboratorysincethebeginningofthecontinent,andinthestanding-upcountryoftheRockies,whereerosionhastime-slicedthroughcrosssectionsofitshistory,geologistscanreadtheevolutionofthesemountains,tracingtheirancientgranitesbacksome2billionyearsagowhenshallowseascoveredtheregion.

Theup-and-downbattletoraisetheRockiesbegansome300millionyearsagowhenforcesthatbuildmountainswerefirstpittedagainstthosethattearthemdown.Thefirstgreatupliftingpushedthelandsome2,000feetabovethesurroundingseas.Thegeologicalevolutionwasaccompaniedbyamomentousbiologicalonethefirstamphibiansoftheregioncrawledontotheland.Butthentheforcesopposingtheriseheldswayerosionreducedthemountainstohills,andtheshallowseasoncemoreencroachedovermuchoftheregion.

Then,190millionyearsago,thebuildingforcespushedtheseasasideandinitiatedanotherupheavel.ThistimetheriseofmountainswasaccompaniedbytheascendancyofgiantdinosaursBrontosaurus,Allosaurus,andStegasaurushuntedandgrazedinthesubtropicalvalleys.Theerosiveforcescountered,andagaintheterrainwasleveled.Seasreturnedsome100millionyearsago,imposingtheirhegemonyovermostofthelandforthenext30millionyears.

Anotherroundofbuildingandlevelingbeganbetween70and54millionyearsagoamountainmassrosethreeorfourthousandfeetabovetheplain.Thistimethephenomenawaswitnessedbynew-fangled,furrycreaturestheageofmammalshadbegun.Ofcourse,theforcesoferosionassaultedthosefledglingmountainsandreducedthemtomerehillsacoupleofhundredfeethigh.Butthistimethe

seasdidnotreturn.

Thefinalbattleswerejoinedsome18millionyearsago,whenthemysteriousupliftingforceswereabettedbyoccasionalvolcanicactivityintheregion;and7to5millionyearsago,whenacceleratedupwardmovementpushedthehighlandsevenhigher.

Themechanismwhichcausedthesesuccessiveupheavalsisatthemomentamysteryoneofthemorevexingproblemsofcontemporarygeology.TheRockiesareanexampleofablockrange,astretchofmountainsborderedbyapairofparallelfaults.Theobviousconjecture,thatduringtheupheavalsthefaultsmovedclosertogether,extrudingtheearthbetweenthem,iscontradictedbyevidenceofawideninggapduringthesetimes,andnoothertheorypresentsaconvincingsolution

tothepuzzle.Butthelanddidrise,and5millionyearsagothemasswastherewaitingtobeabraded,cleaved,andquarried.

Asrock-splittingice,rushingwater,andwind-drivensandrakedandclawedattheland,anotherforceamostpowerfulforcewassetinmotion:thefirstgreatglaciersoftheiceageformedsome2millionyearsago,andthesegiantchiselsoficesettoworksculptingmountainsandcarvingcanyons.

Howdoglaciersshapetheterrain?Imaginea20-milelong,2,000-footthickmassoficeininexorablecold-flowmovingdownamountainside.Suchamasswilltransportbouldersthesizeofahouseformiles;willgrindrockagainstrock,streamliningthemorabradingthemtonothing;willdepositmilesofrubblealongtheirsidesandleadingedge;and,whentheybuckleuponthemselves,willexcavatebasinsoutofsolidstone.Throughtheseactions,theglacierscreatedalpinelakes,deepenedandwidenedvalleys,laiddownmoraines,andquarriedthesidesofmountains.

Thegreatriversoficecameinwavesgrowing,flowing,usurpingmoreandmoreland,untilatemporarywarmingoftheclimatestoppedtheiradvance,paredtheirmass,andforcedtheirretreat.Maybetherewerefoursuchwaves,maybethereweremore,butthegreatestglaciationsseemtohaveoccurredbetween2,000,000and600,000yearsago,andbetween27,000and12,000yearsago.

TherearestillglaciersintheparkAndrews,Rowe,Sprague,Taylor,Tyndall,andothersmeresuggestionsoftheirgreatpredecessors.Thesepretendersarebutafewhundredyearsold,andallareunder250feetthick.Still,theyprovidefascinatingdestinationsforhikers,andgiveussomesmallhintoftheforcestheirpredecessorsbroughtupontheland.

TherearefewplacesthatcanmatchRockyMountainNationalParkinitsrichandvariedgeologichistory.Almosteverywhereonecansee

abundantevidenceoftheprimalforceswhichshapedthisspectacularterrain.Thereareseveralfinebooksontheflora,fauna,history,andgeologyoftheparkmanyareavailableatthevisitorcentersandvariousshopsintheparkaswellasinbookstores.Thebibliographylistssomeofthese.

ABitofHistory

OnJanuary26,1915,PresidentWoodrowWilsonsignedintolawthebillthatexpandedthenationalparksystemtoincludeatenthmemberRockyMountainNationalPark.Soendeddecadesofstrugglebetweenthosewhowantedtheregionsetasideinthenameofconservationandpublicrecreation,andthosewhowantedtokeepitopentodevelopment

NearingBeaverMeadows

EnjoyingtheviewfromanoutcroppingalongTundraTrail

andcommercialenterprise.PresidingovertheceremonywasthemanmanyconsidertobethefatheroftheparkEnosMills.

Noonehadfoughtsohardorsolongforthecreationoftheparkforadecadehehadbeenamountainguide,writer,lecturer,andlobbyist.Hehaddreamsofapark1,000squaremilesinextent,stretchingfromtheWyomingBordertoPikesPeak,buthadtosettlefor352.5squaremiles,anareaapproximatelyaninththesizeofYellowstone.Nowthattheparkattractssome3millionvisitorsayear,notmuchlessthanYellowstone,thewisdomofhisoriginalplanseemsmoreandmoreapparent.

Ofcourse,thefoundingoftheparkwasprecededbyalengthyhistoryofinterestandactivityinthesurroundingarea.ThereissomeevidencethatpeoplemigratedfromAlaskaintothisregion7,500yearsagosomesay11,000yearsago.SeveralIndiantribesUte,Shoshone,Apache,Comanche,Kiowa,Arapaho,andCheyennetrappedandtraded,huntedandmadewarhereforatleast400yearsmaybeathousandyearsaccordingtoUtelegend.TheOldUteTrailthatcrossesTrailRidgeRoadandtheContinentalDividetestifiestotheirfamiliaritywiththearea.Projectilepointsandotherstonetoolshavebeenfoundthroughoutthepark.

IndiantalestellofeaglehuntsonthetopofLongsPeakwellbeforeits'discovery'byMajorStephenLongin1820.ThemajorwasoneoftheleadersoftheambitiousYellowstoneExpeditionthatwasmountedtogatherinformationandestablishAmericanhegemonyintheregion,andheearnedhisnamesakemountainbynevergettingclosertoitthan40miles.In1868,MajorJohnWesleyPowell,theone-armedexplorer,adventurer,andCivilWarhero,ledanexpeditiontothesummit.

Lessloftygoalsluredotherswest.TheCaliforniaGoldRushwasunderwayby1849,andadecadelaterthefeverstruckColorado.Joel

Esteswasbittenearlybythegoldbugandtriedhisluckonthewestcoast.Aftersomesuccessandabitofwandering,heandhisfamilymovedtoColoradoin1859.In1860hefoundhiswaytothatmagnificentvalleywenowcallEstesParkwherehesettled,raisedcattle,anddidsomefarmingandabitofhunting.Unabletomakeagoofit,hesoldoutandleftforNewMexicoin1866.

Inthemid-1870's,anEnglishmanbythenameofWindhamThomasWyndam-Quin,FourthEarlofDunraven,ViscontofMountEarlandAdare,laidclaimtoEstesParkandlandtothenorthtotaling15,000acres.Hisdeclaredaimwastoestablishaprivatehuntingpreserveprimarilytoprotectthehabitatfromthosefewwhovisitedtheparkeachseason;lateritwasclearthathehadother,morecommercial,interestsinmind.Therewasenoughpublicresistancetohisschemesandschemingwaystocausehimtodrophisclaims.

In1903FreelanO.StanleymovedtoEstesParkfromMassachusetts,perhapsforreasonsofhealththedoctorshadgivenhimoneyeartolive.Buthetook37more,anddiedin1940attheageof91,provingagainthatnothingisbetterforhealththanRockyMountainair.ThiswasthesameStanleywhoinventedtheStanleySteamerandtheStanleyDryPlateforphotographyamanofmeans,foresight,andbusinesssavvy.HeboughtlandinEstesParkandbuiltthegrandhotelwhichstillstandsandbearshisname.UnlikeLordDunraven,Stanleyhadadeepinterestinpreservingtheregionforpublicuse,aninterestwhichhesharedwithhisgoodfriendEnosMills.WhileStanleylocallypromotedtheideaofaprotectedregion,Millscontinuedhiscampaignforaparkthroughwritingsandlobbyingefforts.Sixyearsafterthebuildingofthehotel,RockyMountainNationalParkbecameareality.Buteventhesetwo,withalltheirforesight,couldnothaveimaginedhowquicklythepark'spopularitywouldrise.

In1916therewere51,000visitors;1920saw241,000.In1932,TrailRidgeRoadopenedfortravelacrosstheContinentalDivide,replacingtheFallRiverRoadwhichhadbeeninplacebeforethefoundingofthepark.Thatyear292,000visitorscamein83,000automobiles,inspiteoftheGreatDepression.By1938,thenumberhadrisento660,000visitorsin200,000cars.Thencamethegreatwar,andthemid-fortiessawadropto130,000.Whenhostilitiesandgasolinerationingendedin1947,therewere900,000visitors;over1millionin1948.Bythemid-fifties,thenumberrosetomorethan1.5million;andby1978,morethan3millionpeopleayearwerecomingtovisitthePark.

PreparationsEveryyearthousandsofpeopleofallageshikeinRockyMountainNationalPark,butafewprecautionsareinorder:

Weather.InColorado'shighcountrytheruleistoexpecttheunexpected.It'snotunusualtoexperience50°sinJanuaryorasnowstorminAugust.AsunnymorningatBearLakecanturnintoafreezingrainatopHallettPeak.Gopreparedwithclothingforallextremesandrememberthatweathercanchangerapidlywithlittlewarning.

ProperDress.Dressinlayers,preparedtopeeloffalayerorsliponanother.Raingearisparticularlyessentialduringinevitablesummerthunderstorms.

ItemsToCarry.Startwithaday-packwiththeessentialsofwaterproofmatches,mapandcompass,pocketknife,spaceblanketorponcho,firstaidkit,nyloncord,waterbottle,extrafood,sunglassesandsunscreen,andaflashlight.Addtothelistdependingonseasonanddurationofhike.

FoodandDrink.Carryhigh-energyfoodtosuityourtasteandplentyofwater.Exertion,altitude,andwindconspiretodehydratethebody.Giardiamicrobes,whichcausedysentary-likesymptomsifingested,requirethatwaterfromstreamsbefilteredorboiledbeforedrinking.

AltitudeSickness.Headaches,dizziness,andlightnauseamaybeearlysymptomsofaltitudesickness.Visitorsfromlowerelevationsareparticularlysusceptibleandshoulddescendifsymptoms.occur.

Hypothermia.Severechill,nausea,disorientation,andprofoundlethargymaybesymptomsofhypothermia,whichisalossofbodytemperatureduetofactorssuchasimproperdress,dehydration,

exhaustion,exposure,andpoorphysicalcondition.Changeintodryclothing,putonadditionalclothing,drinkwarmliquids,anddescendtolowerelevationsasquicklyaspossible.Hypothermiacanoccuranytimeofyear.

NaturalHazards.Lightningiscommonduringsummerthunderstorms.Avoidhighpointsandexposedareasifastormisapproachinganddescend.Exercisecautionaroundthemanywaterfallsandstreams.Manybanksandoverlooksarelooseandslippery,particularlywhenwet.Wildlifeshouldbeviewedonlyfromasafedistance.Thisistheirhome,andhereyouaretheguest.Wintertravelhasaddeddangersoffrostbiteandavalancheandshouldbeundertakenonlybythosefullyexperiencedinsuchmatters.

Maps.ThemapsinthisguidearefromTrailsIllustrated'sRockyMountainNationalParkmap.Hikenumbersdenotethedestinationorgeneralareaofthehikesasnumberedintheguide.

Remember,thisguideisnotasubstituteforyourcommonsenseandhikingexperience.Alwaysconsideryourgeneralhealthandphysicalconditionandthatofyourcompanionswhenselectingatrail.Then,walksoftlywithrespectforthelandaroundyou.

SOUTHEASTTrailsNearLongsPeak1FinchLake2CalypsoCascadesandOuzelFalls3OuzelLake4EstesCone5ChasmLake6LongsPeak7TwinSistersMountain

Ifyou'relookingforlandscapesrichinwaterfeatures,youcannotdobetterthanhikeintheWildBasinareaofthesoutheastregion.Heretherearetranquillakes,superbriverscenery,cascadesandwaterfalls.Ontheotherhand,onlyafewmilesaway,aretwohikestomountainsummits.OneoffersfineviewsofLongsPeakalongthewayandapanoramicviewfromthetop;whiletheotheristhemostfamoushikeintheparktheclimbtothesummitofLongsPeak.

ThesetrailscanbereachedbytravelingsouthonColorado7fromEstesPark;alternatively,pickupColorado7headingwestoutofLyonstothesoutheastcorneroftheparkwheretheroadturnsnorth.Drivingtheentiresectionofthishighwayalongtheeasternboundaryoftheparkisatreatthesceneryisspectacular.

FinchLake

Trailhead(1): 0.2mileseastoftheWildBasinRangerStation

Distanceoneway: 4.5milesAltitudegain: 1,440feetElevationatdestination:

9,910feet

ThehiketoFinchLaketakesyouthroughavarietyofpleasantandinterestinglandscapes-forestsofmixedconifers,superbaspenglens,andasoberlyfascinatingareadevastatedbyfire.Thelakeitself,nestledamongtreesanddisplayedagainstthemassiveformofCopelandMountain,isastudyintranquility.

ThereisawebofroutesthatleadintotheFinchLakeTrail,butthemostdirectbeginsattheappropriatelynamedFinchLakeTrailhead,locatedabout0.2mileseastoftheWildBasinRangerStation.

Thefirstmileoftrailascendssomewhatsteeplythroughdenseforestofpineandfirshadyandmoistenoughtonurturesizablepatchesofmoss,studdedhereandtherewithparsleyferns.Duringlatesummerit'sslowgoingalongthisstretchsincewildraspberriesareripeningwithinanarm'sreachofthepath.Redberryelderisalsoripeningitsfruit,butfordecorationonlytheseberriesaretoxic.Bymid-September,thegrouseberryshrubletsthatcoversomuchoftheforestfloortakeontintsofyellow,rose,andcopperyred.Buttheblackberriesthatthisblueberryrelativeproducesareseldomatemptation,thankstotheabundanceofgrouseinthearea.

Thetrailhookstotheright(southwest),andthesecondmileissignaledbyalevelingofthegrade.Theconiferousforestgiveswaytoanopenstandofyoungaspen,sooninterruptedbyasmallbutsuperbgroveofmatureponderosapine,theirredtrunksanddeepgreen

needlesbeautifullysetoffagainsttheslenderwhitestemsandsilverygreenleavesoftheirdeciduouscompanions.Thenaspenagaintakeover,thetreesnowmuchlarger,straighter,andarrayedintighterformation-ameshofshimmeringgoldinlateSeptemberandreasonenoughtohikethistrail.

Severaltrailsconvergeabout1.8milesfromthetrailhead,butthesearewellsortedoutbysignscontinuewest.Lodgepole,spruce,andfiragaindominatetheforest,asthetrailbecomessteeperandrockier.Occasionally,thereareniceviewsofWildBasin,PagodaMountain,ChiefsHeadPeak,andMountMeeker.

FinchLakeintherain

Anothercrossingoftrailsmarksthe2.3-milepoint.Signsclearlyindicatedirection:thetrailtotheleftleadstoAllenspark,theonetotherightgoestoCalypsoCascades,andtheonestraightaheadleadssouthwesttoFinchLake.

Thegrademoderates,andthelandscapeundergoesasuddenanddramaticchangeasthetrailenterstheareadevastatedbyaforestfirein1978.Mostofthetreesarestillstandingcharred,denudedofbranches,andstrippedofbark,theycompriseaskeletonforest,starkbutfascinating.Incontrasttoothersectionsoftheburn,thispartseemstobemakingastrongcomeback,withenoughsaplinglodgepoletoapproximatetheoriginaldensity.Anabundanceofwildflowersalsolightensthemood,witherigeron,aster,andpearlyeverlastingputtingonashowfrommidsummerintofall.Farfromsomberanddepressing,thisisoneofthemostinterestingandmemorablepartsofthetrail.

Theburnedareacontinuesforthebetterpartofamile,thenit'sback

tolivingforest.Thepathisnearlyleveluntil0.5milesfromthelake.Hereitbeginstodescend,graduallyatfirst,andthenquitesteeply,tothemarshyshore.

Aspenaboutamilealongthetrail

Thelakeappearsquitesuddenly,andthefirstviewisperhapsthebest,withCopelandMountainseenasabackdropandreflectedinthewater.Insomeplaces,marshgrassesgrowalongtheshore;elsewhere,thebanksarespongywithmulti-coloredmosses.It'sapleasantandtranquilsetting,justtheplaceforaleisurelylunchandastrollaroundthelake.

ThosenotwantingtoretracetheentireroutecanreturntothetrailjunctionattheeastendoftheburnareaandcomebackbywayofCalypsoCascades.Thisentailsanadditionaldownhillmile,butinreturnyougettoenjoysomeofthebestriversceneryinthepark(seep.23).

CalypsoCascadesandOuzelFalls

Trailhead(2): WildBasinRangerStation

Distanceoneway: 1.8miles(cascades),and2.7milesfromtrailhead(falls)

Altitudegain: 700feet(cascades),and950feet(falls)

Elevationatdestination: 9,200feet(cascades),and9,450feet(falls)

Waterfalls,cascades,andsuperbriversidesceneryareamongthemanyhighlightsofthishike.Addingtotheinterest,isawalkthroughpartoftheareathatwasravagedbyfirein1978,althoughmostofthetrailpassesthroughforestwhoselushgrowthreflectstheaboundanceofmoistureinthearea.Forthosewhoenjoythesightandsoundofrushingwaterandtherichenvironmentsitfosters,thistrailwillbeafavorite.

OuzelFallstakesitsnamefromalark-sized,mousy-graybirdtheouzeloftenseencavortinginwhitewater.Sometimescalledthedipperbecauseofitsjerkybobbingmotions,thisCharlieChaplinofthewaterwaysoftenseeksshelterbehindacascadeanow-you-see-it-now-youdon'ttrickguaranteedtoamuseandbewilder.

Toreachthetrailhead,exitwestoffofColorado7aboutamilenorthofAllenspark,anddrivetotheWildBasinRangerStation.TheroadispavedtoCopelandLake,thenunpavedforthenext2milestothestation.

TheroadpassesclosetoCopelandLake,andsoonentersamixedforestgracedwithseveralstreamsjustahintofthescenerytocome.Ifyoucan,parkattherangerstationspaceislimited,andthelotisoftenfullbefore9A.M.duringtheweekendsofsummer.Parkingcanbe

hadontheapproachroad,asecondbestthatcanaddahalf-miletothehike,andnotthemostscenichalf-mile.

ThetrailheadtoCalypsoCascadesandOuzelFallsisclosetotheparkinglotandoppositethestation.CopelandFallsisonly0.3milesfromthetrailhead,althoughit'sworthyofamuchlongerhike.Thisisnotalargefeature,butitisbeautifulinitssetting,initsproportion,andinthewayitgivesplaytothewater.

Curbyoureagernesstoreachthefallsandtaketimetoenjoythesuperbriversceneryinthefirstthree-fourthsofamileabitofthe

bestintheparknotasspectacularaswhatcomeslater,butspecialinaquieterway.Toenjoyitfully,explorethesidepaththatparallelsthemaintrailwithinafewfeetofthebanks,occasionallyvanishingontohugeslabsofgranitehundredsofsquareyardsinextent.Buttakecaretoavoidthoseplaceswheresignsdesignaterevegetationareas.

Snow-meltinthehighcountrypeaksduringtheheatofJuneandearlyJuly,andbringstheriverstotheirfullest.Butbymidsummer,theflowdecreases,thereislesswhitewater,thecascadesarelessboisterous,andthefallslessrambunctious.Buttheover-alleffectisatleastaspleasing.Now,moreoftherockwallthatconfinestheriverisvisible,

OuzelFalls

CopelandFalls

there'smorebalanceandvarietythanearlier,andwecanbestappreciateitsstructureanddetail.

FornearlyamilethepathparallelsNorthSaintVrainCreek.Inonesectiontheshoreisdefinedbyanenormousslabofgranite,itsfissuresamacrameofmossesandwildflowers.Thenalder,aspenandfirmakewayforpineasyoulosecontactwiththeriver,butwithin1.5milesyouagainmeetupwithit.CrossingalogbridgenearthepointwhereConyCreekjoinsNorthSaintVrainCreek,thetrailcontinuestoCalypsoCascadeslessthan0.3milesfurther.

CalypsoCascades

CalypsoCascadesisnamedforthedelicatelybeautifulcalypsoorchidthatgrowsalongitsbanks,butitsactionandappearanceseemmoreappropriatetothemusicofthatnameunpredictable,jaggedlyenergetic,andprimitive.Unlessyourhikecelebratestheendofaparticularlywetspring,donotexpecttobegreetedbyatorrentthisisnotalargefeature.Nevertheless,thethemeispowerandenergyanditisathemethatiswellchurnedoverinthesecascades.

Thefirstviewofthecascadesisfromanoverlookafewstepstothe

rightofthetrail.Ahuge,splitboulderperchesontheotherside,and

waterfromsometributarydividesandfoamsaroundit.Betweenboulderandcascadesasmallgroupofpineshasfoundaprecariousperchprotected,yetperpetuallythreatened.

Furtheron,thecascadescomecrashingdownthroughasluicewayofenormousboulders,andpassesunderthefootbridgethatcontinuesthetrail.Upstream,thethrashingwaterissplitbymassive,rockoutcroppings,thelargestsupportingminiaturegardenscompletewithtreesandshrubs,andallalongthebankstheforestislushandverdant,inresponsetotheabundanceofwaterinthearea.Allofwhichmakesthechangeinscenerythatliesaheadthatmuchmoredramaticandsurprising.

OuzelForestFire

SoonafterleavingthecascadesthetrailenterstheareaoftheOuzelFireof1978.Manyofthedeadlodgepolestillstand,theirtrunksblackwithcharorstrippedbaretothesilveryheartwood;otherslieuprootedandcracked,slowlydecayinginthemountainatmosphere.It'sasceneoftotaldevastation,butratherthanappearingdarkordreary,ithasanaustereanderiebeauty.

OuzelFalls

Aftermorethan0.5milesthetrailleavestheburnareaandclimbsthroughswitchbackstoOuzelFalls.YoufirstseethefallsfromabridgethatspansOuzelCreekandcontinuesthetrailtoOuzelLake.Thisfirstviewisnotthebestthefallsbeingafewhundredfeetawayandfacingtotheside.Butit'seasytogetaclose-inhead-onviewbyscramblinguptoitontheleftbankoverbouldersandthroughthicketssomecareisneededsincetherocksmaybewetandslippery.Agrassybankfacesthefallsandonawindydaywillgiveyouafacefullofspray,butclimbinganearbyboulderprovidesadrierperchandoffersthemostdramaticview.It'sagreatplaceforlunchandabitof

restbeforereturningtotherangerstationorheadingontoOuzelLake(seep.28).

WinterTrail

Thewinterroutetothefallsismuchlongerthanthesummerroute.Itbeginsattherangerstation,butnottheWildBasinRangerStationwithinafewhundredfeetoftrailhead.Instead,it'sthewinterstation,3milesbackdowntheroadthesummerstationissometimesopenforuseasawarminghut.

Fromthewinterstationtheskitrailfollowstheroadtothesummerstation,theinitialsectionpassingnearthesouthshoreofCopelandLake.Here,foraboutaquarterofamile,thetrailmaybefreeofsnow,buttheremainderofthetrailisusuallywellpacked.Theskiingiseasyandimperceptiblyuphillalongthe3milestothewarminghut,thetrailwindingthroughforestsofaspen,pine,andspruce.AfastandeasythirdofamilebringsyoutoCopelandFalls,itsbeautycompletelyhiddenbysnow-coveredice.

Althoughtheriverandthemagnificentrockybanksarealsohiddenbysnow,thenexthalfmileofferssomesuperbscenerytotherightofthetrailwheresilverygreentraceryofwillow,alder,andelderaredelineatedagainstthegray-blackgraniteoutcropings.Thenthetrailbecomessteeper,andtheskiingbecomesmoreofachallenge.ConyCreekandtheNorthSaintVrainareallbutinvisibleevenCalypsoCascadesiscoveredandstilled,andOuzelFalls,completelyrobedinsnow,seemstohaveitsbackturnedtotheskier.

TheskibackfromOuzeltoCopelandFallsoffersseveralchallengingruns,butthelast3.5mi.iseasyenoughforanybeginner.

NorthSaintVrainCreek

OuzelLake

Trailhead(2): WildBasinRangerStation

10,010feet

ThetrailtoOuzelLakeisacontinuationofthattoOuzelFalls,soyougettoseeCopelandFalls,CalypsoCascades,andOuzelFallsalongtheway.Theadditional2.2milesoffersweepingviewsofWildBasinandthesurroundingmountains,aswellastheareadevastatedbytheOuzelFireof1978.ThehikeendsatapleasantlakesurroundedbyforestandsetagainstCopelandMountain.

AfterleavingOuzelFallsthetrailrunsalongamassiverockescarpmentvividlycoloredinredandtan,complementedbyorangelichensandgreenmosses.Widebandsofblackcharstillbearwitnesstotheforestfireof1978.Butyoungfirtreeshavetakenrootatthefootofthewall,andarchawayfromitastheygrowtowardthelight.Asthetrailascends,

OuzelLake

PartoftheOuzelFireburnof1978

thelandscapebecomesmoreopen,andonebeginstomorefullyappreciatetheextentofthedestruction.Lessthanahalf-milefromthefalls,thetrailsplits.TherighthandbranchgoestoThunderLake;theleft,whichistheonetofollow,goestoOuzelLake,andthenfarthertoBluebirdLake.

Pastthejunction,thetrailcontinuesthroughtheburnedarea.Hereonelooksoutatmilesofdevastationacauterizedlandscape.Skeletontrees,reddenedorcharredblack,somestillstanding,givetestimonytotheconflagration.Youngpines,2to3feettall,separatedfromeachotherbyhundredsoffeet,standamongtheremainsoflodgepolesthatenjoyedeachother'scompanyatadistanceof6to10feet.Yet,thisplacehasastarkandsomberbeautythegrayandblackhuesofthestandingdeadwoodandthegreensandredsofground-coveringgrouseberrysetagainstthemountainbackdrop.

Withinamileofthelakeyouleavetheburnedareaforthecompanyoflivingtreesthechangeissuddenanddramatic.AfewhundredyardsfromOuzelLake,asidetrailbranchesoffthemaintrailtotheleft

(southwest),andfollowsalongOuzelCreektothenorthshoreofthelake.Mostoftheshoreiswellforested,butthereareplentyofplaces

neartheoutletofOuzelCreekwhereyoucansitandrelaxagainstatreeandenjoythescenery.ThedominantpeakisCopelandMountaintothesouth,whileMahanaPeaktothewest,andTanimaPeaktothenorthwestcompletethebackround.

ThosewhowantalongerhikecangobacktothemaintrailandcontinuewesttoBluebirdLake,amilefartherand970feethigher.ButmanywillwanttostaylongeratOuzelLakebeforereturningforasecondlookatOuzelFallsandCalypsoCascades.

Saplingfirandredcliff

EstesCone

Trailhead(3): LongsPeakRangerStation

Distanceoneway: 3.3milesAltitudegain: 1,606feetElevationatdestination: 11,006feet

EstesConehasoneofthemoststrikingprofilesintheparkaperfectlycone-shapedpeak,exceptforthefortresslikeoutcroppingofstonethatformsitssummit.Asitslocationsuggests,itssummitprovidesexcellentviewsofMountMeeker,LongsPeak,TwinSistersPeaks,EstesPark,andtheMummyRange.RemainsoftheEugeniaMineaddhistoricinterest,andtheclimboutoftheforestandontothesummitisstrenuousenoughtoaddzesttotheascent.

ThetrailbeginsattheLongsPeakRangerStation,whichisreachedbyheadingwestoffofColorado7,about5milesnorthofAllensPark.Someofthemostpopularhikesintheparkbeginhere,andparkingspaceislimited,soitusuallypaystoarriveearly.

Startingattherangerstation,thetrailtoEstesConecoincideswiththattoLongsPeakandChasmLakeforaboutone-thirdofamile,thenbranchesofftotheright(east).Thereareafewsmallstandsofaspen,butmostofthetrailisthroughconiferousforestlodgepole,pine,spruce,andfirpredominate.

Atthe1.4-milemark,abridgeconstructedofhalvedtreetrunkstakesyouacrossInnBrooktotheremainsofalogcabinthathousedtheminerswhoworkedtheEugeniaMine,anenterprizebegunandabandonedneartheturnofthecentury,leavingnoonethericher.Afewhundredfeettothenorthwest,amoundofminetailingsabutstheshoreofthestream,andabitfartheron,arustingironboilerstandssentryovertherubble.

Thetrailcontinues,sometimesmoderatelyascending,sometimes,moderatelydescending.Thereareenoughdescendingsectionstomakethenetaltitudegainof1,606feetfromtrailheadtosummitamisleadingindicationoftheeffortinvolved.

Atthe2.5milemarkthetrailsplitstheleftbranchheadsnortheasttoGlacierBasin,andtherightbranchheadssoutheastuptoEstesCone.Andupitis,forinthenexthalf-milethetrailclimbs750feet,withthelast30feetarockscrambleclosertoperpendicularthantohorizontal.

Nearthebeginningofthislasthalf-mile,thetrailpassesthroughanunusual,butbeautiful,forestoflodgepolepine.Thetreesarequite

EstesCone

widelyspaced,oftenmanytrunked,oldandmassivenotatalllikethedenselypacked,straighttrunkedstandsthesetreesusuallyform.Thegroundiscoveredbygravelandsand,coloredamauve-tanexceptforolivegreen,amoebashapedpatternsofdecomposingpineneedlessurroundingthebaseofeachtree.

Asyouascend,thetrailgetssteeperandmoreindistinct,althoughsmallcairnsclearlymarktheway.HerethereareseveralsectionsofthetrailwheretheforestopenstorevealsuperbviewsofMountMeekerandLongsPeak.Finally,youarriveatamassiveoutcroppingofrock,colorfullyembellishedwithlichen.Butthisisnotthesummitthetrailcontinuesafewhundredfeettoamuchmoremassivewall.Followthecairns,andtakecareasyouscrambleupthenarrowtrail.Thisisthesteepestpartofthehike,butit'sonly30feetinextent,andtheexposureisnominal.Nevertheless,thissectionofthetrailwarrantscaution,particularlywhenwet.

NearingthesummitofEstesCone

Attheendofthispartoftheclimb,youfindyourselfonasmallplateau.Butthisisnotthesummiteither.Apromontoryofrockrisessome15feetabovetheplateau,anditsthetopofthisthatdefinesthetruesummit.Cairnsstartyououtinthegeneraldirection,butthefinalfewstepswillbeofyourchoosing.Atthetopspaceislimited,anditcanbecrowdedsincepeopletendtolingerawhilenowonder,consideringthespectacularviews.TotheeastrisethetwindomesofTwinSistersPeaks;tothesouthwestMountMeekerandLongsPeakdominatethehorizon;andEstesParkstretchestothenortheast,atthefootoftheMummyRange.EstesLakeisadominantfeature,andcloserisLilyLake.Allthisforamerethree-milehike,althoughthesteepnessofthelasthalf-milewillberemembered.

Thedescentofthesteepsectionrequiresatleastasmuchcareastheascent,butthentheremainderofthehikebacktotherangerstationiseasyenoughtopermitfullenjoymentoftheforestscenery.

ChasmLake

11,760feet

Thislake,magnificentandaloofinitsstarkdesolation,setagainstthefamedeastfaceofLongsPeak,embodiesthemostruggedaspectofthealpineregion.Beforeyoureachthelake,youpassthroughthreeclimatezonesacrossawonderfuldiversityofterrainfromgentletoharsh,makingthisoneofthemostpopularhikesinthepark.

StartingattheLongsPeakRangerStation,thetrailascendsatamoderateinclineforthefirst2milesthroughconiferousforesthomogeneous,exceptforpleasantAlpineBrook,whichyoucrossnearthe1.5-milemark.Then,nearingtimberline,thelandscapeopensup,revealingasweepingviewoftheRoaringForkdrainage.

Threemilesfromthestartthetrailsplitstheright-handbranchleadstotheBoulderFieldandLongsPeakbywayoftheKeyhole,whiletheleftgoestoChasmLake.Thetrailcontinuesitsmoderateascentacrossthetundra,almostalwaysinviewofLongsPeak.Oneofthemostconspicuousandoftenwelcomefeaturesisanouthousedominatingarisewithacommandingviewofthevalleybelow.

ContinuingalongthetrailwegetourfirstglimpseofPeacockPool,500feetbelow.Althoughmodestinsize,itssparkleandcolordramaticallysetitofffromthestarksurroundingsandgivenitsblue-greenshimmer,theanalogywithapeacock'splumageiswell-taken.Furtheralong,youseeColumbineFalls,adelicatemacrameofrivuletsbraidingandunbraidingovertherocksfromtrailheightto

PeacockPool,150feetbelow.

Thenextsectionoftrailprovidesasurprisingcontrasttowhatliesbehindandaheadasitcontinuesthroughamarshyalpinemeadow,hopscotchingastreamwhoseformermeandersdefineachainofsmallreflectingpools.Boththestreamandthepoolsareborderedwithhummocksofgrassesandsedges;Arcticwillowsenjoythemoistureasdoallsortsoffloweringplants,liketheexquisitealpinegentianwithitssessile,trumpet-shapedbloomsofjade-likegreenishwhite.

Screeandrockthenreclaimtheterrain,andthelastpartofthehikeisasteepbutshortscrambleuptotherimofChasmLake.Youdon'tseeituntilyoureachtheledgesabovethewaterandthenwhatgreetsyouisamonumentalsceneofunforgettablegrandeur.

ChasmLake

Flagtreesneartimberline

Thelakeissteely-gray.Noplantsmoderatetherawangularityoftherockthatrisesprecipitouslytoformitsbasin.Broodingovertheoppositeshore,loomingahalf-mileabovethelake,istheeastfaceofLongsPeak,MillsGlacieratitsbase.

TheperfectlyverticalportionoftheeastfaceistheDiamondameccaforworld-classclimbers.OnalmostanyweekendinJulyandAugustonecanwatchthemperformit'saslow-motionballetonaverticalstage.Butevenafront-rowseatistoofarbackforagoodview,andbinocularscomeinhandy.

Thereareotherdiversionscloserathand.Soonerorlaterawelcomingcommitteeofyellow-belliedmarmotswilldropbytogreetyou.FatasOctoberbears,butboldlyfeigningstarvation,theybrazenlybegahandoutfortheirhealth,resistthecuteantics,anddon'tgivein.Themuchsmallerbutequallycartoonypikatendstoignoretheintruders,whilegoingaboutitsbusinessofharvestingthatchwithgreatpurpose.

Betweentheanimals,theclimbers,andtheincomparablescenery,ChasmLakeishardtoleave.Althoughnotallofthelakeshoreisaccessible,youcanexploretheeasternedgetherearemanyexcellentviewpoints,someatthelakeshore,andothersonledgeswellabovethewater.TheonlythinglikelytocutyourvisitshortisoneofthosefrequentthunderstormsthatcomebytobadgerLongsPeakintheafternoons.

PeacockPool

LongsPeak

Distanceoneway: 8milesAltitudegain: 4,855feetElevationatdestination:14,255feet

TheclimbtothesummitofLongsPeakistheonlyhikecoveredherethatrequiresmorethan10milesfortheroundtripandanelevationgainofmorethan4,000feetbutthefameandpopularityofthehikejustifiestheexception.

Whatmakesthispeaksuchapopulardestination?Longsisthemostprominentfeatureintheparka14,255-footpresenceconspicuousthroughoutthehighcountry.Tolookdownonitallfromitssummithasbeenadreamofmillionsofvisitors10,000tryiteveryyear;about3,000succeed.Thehikepassesthroughthreezonesmontane,subalpine,andalpine-overterrainofgreatbeautyandinterest.Themountain'sformisuniqueandimposing.Cappedbyamonstrousblockofgranitewhoseeastfacetowersnearly2,500feetaboveChasmLake,itcreatesanddominatesanunforgettablelandscape.AddtothisthemystiqueofhistoryandIndianlegend,andthefactthatthisistheonly''fourteener"inthepark,andtheattractioniseasytounderstand.

Thedistanceandaltitudegaininvolveddictateabitofforethoughtandspecialprecautions.Sincethemountainattractsafternoonthunderstormslikeamagnet,hikersareadvisedtobeoffthesummitbynoon.Thisleadstotwoalternativestrategiesstartthehikeatabout3or4inthemorning,orcampoutthenightbefore.Thefirstisbetterdescribedasanighthike,notadayhike,robbingthosewithoutowlvisionofagreatdealofthescenicpleasure,atleastonthewayup.Thesecondoptioninvolvesatwo-dayhike,andrequiressome

advancedplanningtoassureastrategiccampsite.

TheBoulderField,5.9milesfromtrailhead,isthemostfrequentlyusedbasecamp,althoughtheBattleMountaincampgroundisalsopopular.TheBoulderFieldisabout2milesfromthesummit,ismostlyfreeofmosquitos,andofferssuperviewsoftheEastFaceandtheKeyhole.Eachcampsiteisdefinedbyawaist-high,circularwallofstonecratersinalunarlandscape.Freshwaterisavailableatseveralspringsinthearea,butpossiblecontaminationbyhumans,horses,andgiardiaadvisestreatingthewaterbeforeuse,preferablybyboiling.Asolarouthousecompletestheaccommodations.

LongsPeakfromtheBoulderField

CampingattheBoulderFieldisbyreservationonly,andsincethereareonly8sites,reservationsareoftenmademonthsinadvance.ReservationscanbemadeinpersonallyearattheBackCountryOfficeeastoftheparkheadquartersneartheBeaverMeadowsEntrance,orattheKawuneecheVisitorCenteronthewestsideofthepark.Whenopenfortheseason,reservationscanbemadeinpersonattheLongsPeakRangerStationortheWildBasinRangerStation.BeforeJune1,reservationscanbemadebyphonebycalling303-586-4459.Cancellationscanbemadebyphone,anddoingsoearlyallowsotherstousethesite.ReservationsforcampsitesonBattleMountainarehandledsimilarly.

ThehikedescribedherestartsattheLongsPeakRangerStation.Thefirsttwomilesoftrailleadthroughforestofpine,fir,andspruce,occasionallypassingalongsideAlpineBrook.Themostdramaticviewappearsabout1.5mi.fromtrailheadasthebrookcascadesbelowawoodenbridgethroughbanksofyellow-floweredmimulusit'stemptingtolinger,butthere'salotofgroundtocover.Beyondthebrook,subalpinefirgetsthebetterofpine,andsoontheforestshrinkstoKrummholz,theelfingrovespermittingexpansiveviewsofthetwinpeaksofTwinSistersandthevalleybelow.

Abovetimberline,atthe2.5milemark,thetrailveersleftontopuretundra.Halfamilefurtherthetrailsplits:straightaheadleadstoChasmLake;leftleadstoaskylinetoilet;headingright(west)takesyoutoLongsbywayofGranitePass.

Finally,afteracouplemorecobblymiles,you'reattheBoulderFieldwithitsgrandviewoftheEastFaceandtheKeyhole.Thosespendingthenightheremightenjoyscramblinguptheridgeofrockyrubbletothesouthofthetrail.Therewardisaspectacular,straight-downviewofChasmLake,andanunbeatableviewofTheDiamond,thatprecipitousupperportionoftheEastFacethathaschallengedthebestrockclimbersfordecades.TheridgemeldsintotheedgeoftheEastFacewheretheoldcableroutetookhikerstothepeak.Consideredadefacement,thecableswereremovedin1973,andthisrouteisnowratedasatechnicalclimb.

WiththesummitofLongsasthedestination,thenextstopistheKeyhole,anotchinthestoneflangejoiningStormPeakandLongs,about0.5milesfromtheBoulderFieldand500feetaboveit.Framedagainsttheskyliketheclawsofacrabposturingdefiance,it'soneofthemostextraordinaryfeaturesinthisextraordinarylandscape.ThejumbleofbouldersthatdefinetheBoulderFieldsweepupwardtotheKeyhole,moderatelyatfirst,andthenquitesteeply.TotheleftoftheKeyholestandsastonehuterectedtothememoryofAgnesVaille.HavingaccomplishedthefirstwinterascentoftheEastFaceonJanuary12,1925,shewascaughtinastormanddiedofexposure;acompanionlostfingers,toes,andpartofafoot;andawould-berescueralsofrozetodeath.

ButstepthroughtheKeyholeandthesedarkreflectionsvanishonlyAlicethroughtheLookingGlasscouldhaveexperiencedgreaterexhilaration.GlacierGorgestretchesthousandsoffeetbelow,backed

TheKeyholeatsunrise

byagatheringof"thirteeners"fromlefttoright(southeasttonorthwest)Pagoda,ChiefsHead,andMcHenrypeaks.Oftentherearehawksglidingontheaircurrentsathousandfeetbelow.Butthereisstilla1.5-miletrektothesummit,and1,000feetofelevationgainyettogo.PasttheKeyholethetrailbeginsatraverseaboutathirdofamilelong.Herethegradeismoderatelydownhill,althoughthereisnearlyasmuchexposureasinlatersections.Atthispoint,thosehavingafearofheightsorfeelingtheeffectsofthealtitudeshouldconsiderturningback.

ThetraverseleadsintoTheTroughwhereexposureisnotaconcern.Muchoftheremainingaltitudegainisaccountedforhere,climbingoverchunksofgraniteatanangleapproaching35degrees.Watchoutfor

TheNarrows(photobyDickHolley)

ChasmLakeandPeacockPoolfromthesummitofLongsPeak(photobyDickHolley)

LongsPeakfromBearLake

fallingrocks,andtakecarenottofreeany.After0.5milesyouentertheNarrows,andexposureisagainaconsideration.Forthemostparttherouteislevelandaswideasageneroussidewalk,butthereisashortstretchwhereit'spinchedtoacoupleoffeetandthewallrisingabovetakesadisconcertingtiltoverthedropoffbutafewstepsandyouarepastit.

TheNarrowscontinuesforseveralhundredfeettothebaseofHomeStretch,wideslabsofstone,inclinednearly45degrees,thatleadtothesummit450feetabove.Althoughyoucanstandhereandthere,ascendingordescendingHomeStretchisusuallydoneonallfours,primordialfashion,abitinelegant,butsafe.Whenwet,thestoneisslippery,andevenmorecautioniswarranted.

Thenyou'reonthetopofLongsPeak.Hallelujah!it'sthetopoftheworld!well,atleastlocally,it'sthetopoftheworld.

Thesummitisaslargeasafootballfield,andnearlyasflat.Everydirectionhasitsgrandviews.StormPeakistothenorthwest;MountMeekertothesoutheast.TothewestarethemountainsoftheContinentalDivide;tothesouthisWildBasin.And2,500feetbelowtheEastFaceisChasmLakeandPeacockPool.

AlthoughthehiketoLongsPeakisjustifiablyfamousandpopular,itshouldnotbeundertakenlightly.Thedistance,altitude,andexposurecombinetomakethisaverystrenuousone-daytrip.Thosewhodomaketheclimbwillrememberitforever.

TwinSistersPeaks

Trailhead(4): TwinSistersTrailhead

ThetrailtothetwinsummitsofTwinSistersPeaksofferssomeofthefinestviewsoftheirbigbrothertothewestLongsPeak.Amorningstartshowsthepeak'seastfaceinfulllightnowframedbyaspen,thenconifers,andfinallybyoutcroppingsofrockfromthetopofTwinSisters.ButthereismuchmoretothishikethangreatviewsofLongsPeak.Thetrailstartsinthemontanezoneandtakesyouclosetothealpinezone,fromdenseforesttosparetundra,acrossavarietyoflandscapes.

TeepeepolesandaspenintheButterflyBurnof1929

-LongsPeakfromtheTwinSistersTrail

ThetrailheadisreachedbyashortandruttydirtroadthatexitseastoffColorado7lessthan1milenorthoftheexittotheLongsPeakRangerStation.Theskimpyparkinglotholdsaboutadozencars,soitusuallypaystogetthereearly.Theaccessroad,parkinglot,andtrailheadareonprivateland.Thetrailitselfzigzagsbetweenprivateandparkterritorywiththesummitsontheveryboundaryofthetwoastrangestateofaffairsthatseesthetwodomainsdelineatedhereandtherebybarbedwireforthefirstquarterofamile.Ofcourse,thepublicuseofprivatelandisaprivilegewhichshouldnotbeabused.

Thetrailbeginsinadenseandshadyforestofpine,spruceandfir,skirtsasuperbstandofaspen,andthensnakesupthemountainthroughaseriesofswitchbacks.OccasionalclearingsthroughthetreesoffersuperblyframedviewsofLongsPeak.Thepathiswithinthecomfortablecoverofconiferousforestuntilthelast0.75mi.Neartimberlinetherearesomeextraordinarylimberpines,thick-trunkedandwind-stretchedtohorizontaltheyseemtobelevitating,tauntinggravity.

Thecontrastbetweenforestandtundraissuddenandspectacular,andherethetrailbeginstoascendthroughseveralshortbutsteep

switchbackstothesouthpeakofTwinSisters.Thesmall,cobblestonebuildingandaradioantennanearthesummitareusedforparkcommunications;thebuildingiskeptlocked,andisnotintendedtobeusedasashelter.Thetrailcontinuescounterclockwisearoundthesideofthecabinandclimbssteeplyuparockpromontorythatcapsthesummit.

Fromheretheviewsarespectacular:LongsPeakwithcompanionsMountMeekerandMountLadyWashingtontothesouthwest;EstesParkwithitsdividedlaketotheeast;thetwin'sotherpeaktothenorth;andtheplainsstretchingtoBoulderandDenvertothesoutheast.Ingoodweatherfewpeoplearequicktoleavethesummit,soexpectsomecompany.It'sagreatplacetolingeroverlunch,takeintheview,andwatchtheravensperformaerialacrobaticsabovethepeaksandinthevalleysbelow.

RadioantennanearthesummitofTwinSistersMountain

NORTHEASTTrailsFromGlacierGorgeJunction8AlbertaFalls9MillsLake10BlackLake11TheLoch12TimberlineFalls,LakeofGlass,SkyPond

ThetrailsfromGlacierGorgeJunctionleadtosomeofthemostfamouslakesintheparkalpinelakesandsubalpinelakesofunsurpassedbeauty.Superbriverscenery,cascades,andwaterfallsareprominentfeaturesofthesehikes,andGlacierGorgeitselfisanattraction.ToreachGlacierGorgeJunction,headsouthfromtheBeaverMeadowsentranceonBearLakeRoadforabout9miles.Thepopularityofthisregionisnotreflectedinthesizeoftheparkinglot,andthelotisoftenfilledby9a.m.onsummerweekends.Ifspaceisunavailable,youcancontinue0.7milesfurtherandparkattheBearLakelota0.4miletrailconnectsthetwolots.Butifbotharefilled,whichisoftenthecase,youcanreturntotheBearLakeshuttlebusdepot,4.8milesfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrance.Hereyoucanparkyourcar,andtakethebustoGlacierGorgeJunction.

AlbertaFalls

Trailhead(1): GlacierGorgeJunction

Distanceoneway: 0.6milesAltitudegain: 160feetElevationatdestination:

9,400feet

ThewalkfromGlacierGorgeJunctiontoAlbertaFallsmaybethemostpopularintheparkinpartbecausethetrailisshortandeasybutmainlybecauseit'sbeautifulandvaried.AlbertaFallsisoneofthemostimpressivefallsinthepark,andalongthetrailyouseescenicGlacierCreekandwalkalongtherimofGlacierGorge.

Earlyon,thetrailpassesthroughseveralsuperbaspengroves,butalmostallthetreeswithin10feetofthetrailhavepaidfortheirbeautywiththeirhidesananthologyoftravelandinfatuationcarvedinto

GlacierGorge

thebark.It'sdifficulttounderstandwhypeopledrawntovisittheparkaredriventosuchthoughtlessandirresponsiblevandalism.Still,thelandscapeismagnificentmarred,butmagnificent.

AbouthalfwaytothefallsthepathanglestotherightontoabalconyofrockthatfallsawayinanearlyverticaldroptotheriverbelowoneofthemostspectacularoverlooksofGlacierGorge.

GlacierCreekmeandersbesidethetrail;sometimesyouhearonlyitsmusic,othertimesyouseeitthroughtheaspens.Thereareplaceswherethetrailcomeswithin20feetofthebank,andonecaneasilydescendtothewater'sedgetoviewsomeofthebeststreamsidesceneryinthe

AlbertaFalls

park.Aspen,alder,willow,redberriedelder,red-ozierdogwood,andfirpopulatethebanks;Parryprimrose,monkeyflower,bluechimingbells,cowparsnip,monarda,lady'stresses,anddozensofotherwildflowersaddsparksofcolorduringmuchofthesummer.

AlbertaFallsitselfcomesthunderingintoviewquitesuddenly,careeningagainstthewallsofthegranitechuteitcarvedforitself.Thepassage,toostingyinwidthfortheamountofwatertransported,constrictstherivertofoamasittumblesdownthenarrowcanyon.Thebanksandsurroundingterrainconsistoflargeslabsofgraniteandhugeboulders.Snakyaspenemergefromthecrevicesintherockandbetweentheboulders,seemingtosurvivewithoutthebenefitofsoil.Thisremarkablegroveoftrees,soaccessibleandsoconspicuous,hasalsobeentotallydefacedfromgroundleveltoashighasonecanreachwithajackknife.Therockledgesthatdefinethecanyonareeasilyclimbed,andofferspectacularviewsoftheriverasithurlsitselfintothedescent.

Afterastopatthefallsmanyturnback,butthepathcontinuesontosomeofthemostrenownedlakesinthepark:Mills,Haiyaha,andTheLoch.Thisisanotherreasonwhythetrailissopopular.

WinterTrailtoAlbertaFalls

Inwinter,thetrailfromtheGlacierGorgeparkinglottoAlbertaFallsisabeginner'sskioreasysnowshoetrek,withthesteepestascentbeginningandendingwithinafewhundredyardsofthetrailhead.Atthistimeofyear,thecreekparallelingthetrailisencasediniceandcoveredbysnow,concealingoneofthetrail'smostpleasantsummerfeatures.Butwinteroffersitsownspecialtreats.Hereandtheregroupsofyoung,palegray-greenaspenstandaloneorareinterwovenwithanoccasionalfirorpine.Nearthehalfwaymark,wherethetrailbendssharplytotheright,thehikerisbroughttotherimofGlacierGorge,evenmoreimposinginwinterthanatotherseasons.Thewall

facingyouisclearofsnowexceptfortherimandadelicatetracingwovenintothecrevicesofthenearlyverticalsides.

Indeepwinter,AlbertaFallsishiddenbyablanketofsnow,andthereisnoindicationofitsroller-coasterrushthroughtherockchutetothebouldersbelow.ThetrailpastthefallscontinuesuptoMillsLake,TheLoch,andHaiyaha,butisseldomfollowedinwintersincetherearestretchesthatareregularlyrakedbyhighwinds,andothersthatposeanavalanchehazard.Fortunately,therearesaferalternateroutesthatgetyoutothefirsttwoduringwinter(seep.54).

MillsLake

Distanceoneway: 2.5milesAltitudegain: 700feetElevationatdestination: 9,950feet

EnosMillswasoneofthepark'sgreatheroes.From1884to1922,hemadehishomeinthesemountains,actingasanaturalistandguide,popularizingtheareathroughhiswritings,andtirelesslycampaigningfortheestablishmentofanationalpark.MillsLakeisnamedinhishonor,andwhatamemorialitis.Nolakeismorebeautifulorhasamoreimpressivebackdrop.Thehikepassesthroughsuchsuperbscenerythatmostwouldconsideritrewardenough,evenwithouttheincomparablelakeatitsdestination.

MillsLake

DwarfedfirbackedbytheKeyboardOfTheWinds

TheinitialpartofthetrailistheroutefromGlacierGorgeJunctiontoAlbertaFalls(seep.48)atreatinitself,butthereissomuchmoretocome.Soonafterleavingthefalls,thetrailclimbsmoderatelyalongahillsideaboveGlacierBrook,thensnakesupwardmoresteeplytothejunctionoftrailsleadingtoLochVale,Haiyaha,andMills.Hereyoutakethebranchtotheleft(south).ThepathsooncrossesabridgeatIcyBrookaboutahalf-milefromthelake,andtheascentbecomessteeper.Severalswitchbacksleadfromspruceandfirforestontoenormousslabsofgranite,theirfissuresandabutmentshoardingenoughsoiltonurturedwarfgardensofsubalpinefir,limberpine,ground-huggingjuniper,yellow-floweringpotentilla,andanassortmentofhummockyalpineplantsstuddedwithbloomthroughoutmostofthesummer.

Thetraillevelsoffatthelake'soutlettoGlacierCreek,thestreamdrawnoutfromanextensionofMillsLakeflowinglazilythroughagorgeofmassivegraniteboulders.Hereandtherearockyislandrisesfromthewater,decoratedwithgrasses,sedges,willowsandanoccasionalfir.

AshortwalktakesyoutothenortheastshoreofMills,andpresentsalandscapeofsuchgrandeurthateventhemagnificentsceneryencounteredontheapproachisnotlikelytolessentheimpact.

Thelakeisclosetotimberlineyetalpinefir,limberpine,juniper,andotherconifersthrivealongitsshores.Thetreesarenotlarge,buttheyaredenselyfoliagedandgroupedintotightlyknitstands.Moistanddryareasarejuxtaposedonthebanks,sothatonecanfindfernsandbluechimingbellwithinafewstepsofsaxafrage,erigeron,andsedum.

Insomeplacestheforestreachestothewater'sedge;inothers,rockledgesdefinetheshoreandintrudeintothelake.It'sanirresistibleinvitationtostayawhileandtakeinasmuchofthesceneaspossible.

Acrossthelake,thenorthwestshorelineisdefinedbymassivegraniteblocksstackedtoasheerescarpmentrisingsome40feetabovethewater.Toweringinthebackground,fromsoutheasttosouthwest,arethepeaksofLongs,ChiefsHead,McHenrys,andThatchtopmountains.

TheMillsLakeTrailcontinuesalongtheeasternshore,leavingbedrockformoreboggyterrain.AtthesouthendofMillsandcontiguouswithitisJewelLakewhatdivisionthereisbetweenthetwoisduetotheindustryofbeavers.Unlikethehard-edgedcontoursofMills,theshoresofJewelaremarshyandnotclearlydefined.Itlacksthegrandnessofitscompanion,butthedelicategrassesonitsperimetergiveitagentle,impressionisticcharacterthatcomplementsMillshard-edgedandruggedaspect.

EscarpmentatthemouthofMillsLake

Erraticatlakeside

Thosewhocanpullthemselvesawayfromthisareahaveseveraloptions:onwardanother2.2mi.toBlackLake(seep.56);backtothetrailjunctionforahiketoTheLochorHaiyaha;orsimplyreturntoGlacierGorgeJunction,maybewithastopatAlbertaFalls.Choosingthebestamongthebestisnevereasy.

MillsLakeinWinter

ThewinterroutetoMillsandTheLochbranchesofftotheright(south)fromtheAlbertaFallsTrailatthesecondwoodenbridgeclosetothestartingpoint.Apacktrailinsummer,it'smoredirectbutsteepernotdifficultforthesnowshoerbutachallengetotheintermediateskier.It'saninterestingandvariedroute,windinginandoutofpineforests,aspenstands,betweenrockoutcroppings,andfinallytoajunctionoftrailsleadingtoHaiyaha,Mills,TheLoch,andAlbertaFalls.Theorientationofthesignsandtheirinscriptionsissomewhatconfusingandoneshouldtakeamomenttoreadthemall.

ThepathtoMillsLakeandTheLochsoonpassesahitchingpostforhorsesandcontinuestoawoodenbridgewhereitsplitslefttoMillsandrighttoTheLoch.

PastthispointthepathtoMillsbecomessteeper,butsoonrewardsthewintervisitorwithsomemajesticviewsofthesurroundingmoun-

tains;whilehereandthere,ontherockyridgessidingthetrail,contortedlimberpinesbearwitnesstothealtitudeandwind.

Then,walkingonthefrozensurfaceofGlacierCreek,youenteracanyonreservedforthewinterhiker-acanyonofstarkbeautywithblackwallsformedfrompreciselyabuttingboulders.Thisisoneofthemostimpressivefeaturesofthehike.Butthere'smore,forsoonthecanyonopensupontoMillsLakeitself,itsfrozenvastnesscradledinthesurroundingmountains.Here,inmidwinteratnearly10,000feet,itcanbebitterlycold,andicywindsareoftentunneledthroughthemountainpassesandaccelerateacrossthefrozenlakewithnumbingferocity.Atsuchtimes,fewwillstaylong,butit'sanexperiencethatwillbelong-remembered.

ApproachingMillsLakeoverGlacierCreekonsnowshoes

BlackLake

ThehiketoBlackLakeisa2-milecontinuationofthetrailtoMillsLake,goingpastJewelLakeandthenfollowingGlacierCreekupstream,attimesnearenoughtocatchsomespray,sometimesfarenoughtohearonlytherushingwater.Thestreamsidesceneryalongthetrailissuperb,andattrail'sendisthatextraordinary,mountain-backed,blacktarn.

Beingsoclosetothecreekandlakes,itisnotsurprisingthatthepathismarshyinspots,andboardwalkshavebeenconstructedoverthewetteststretchesmoreconvenient,lessobtrusive,andlessdamagingthanafootpathwornthroughwater-loggedsoil.Butdon'texpectthisareatobedreary.Forassoonasthesnowmelts,yellowglobeflowerandwhitemarshmarigoldcarpettheground,andallsortsofothermoisturelovingplantsspringuptomaketheplaceagarden.

Thetrailcontinuesthroughforestsofpineandfir,nowandthencrossinghugeslabsofgranite.Fissuresintherocknurtureminiaturegardensofmosses,sedges,andwildflowers;thelargercrackssupportentirelandscapescompletewithdwarfedtreesandshrubs.ThenthetrailreturnstoGlacierCreek,whiletheforestopensforaviewofStormPeaktotheeast,andacrosstherivertothewest,RibbonFallsdividesandrebraidsitselfagainandagainasitmakesitswaydowntothemeadow.Itwouldbeaninterestingfeaturetoseeatcloserange,butthereisnopaththatIknowofthatleadstoit,andtheareaisverymarshy.

Beyondthispointthetrailbecomesconsiderablysteeper,theforestmoresparse,andthetreeslesstall.Someofthefinestriversceneryonthehikeiswithinthefinal0.5milesofthelake.EveninlateJunethissectionoftrailmaybeunder5feetofsnow,andthelakeitselfislikelytobehalf-coveredwithice.Abitofboulder-hoppingwillgetyouupstreamtotheshore.Alternatively,youcancrossthecreekandscrambleuptoarockyperch8feetormoreabovethelake.EitheroptionofferssuperbviewsofMcHenrysPeakanditsblackreflectioninthewaterjustasthelake'snamesuggests.It'sasceneofstarkanddesolatebeautyaptrewardforahikeofnearlyfivemiles.

GlacierCreekbeyondMillsLake

Lunchatlakeside

TheLoch

10,180feet

TheLochisoneofthemostpopulardestinationsintheparkalakerenownedforitsbeautyandmajesticsetting,andthetrailtoitoffersafullmeasureofmagnificentandvariedscenery.

BeginningatGlacierGorgeJunction,therouteisthesameasthatforMillsLakeuntilaboutthe2milemark(seep.51),soonegetstoenjoyGlacierCreek,AlbertaFalls,andtheGlacierKnobsalongtheway.Inrapidsuccessionthetrailsplitstwice:first,abranchtotheright(west)leadstoLakeHaiyaha1mileaway;thenatrailbranchesofftotheleft(south)andheadsforMillsLake0.5milesaway.

ThebranchtoTheLochtravelsalongsideandaboveIcyBrook.Atthestartofasharpswitchbackthereisanoverlookwhichoffersaviewofthebrookandaseriesofsmallwaterfallstumblingsteeplydownthe

Autumngrassesatlakeside

TheLoch

canyon.LookingdownintothiscanyoninsummeritishardtoimaginethatinwinterthefrozenbrookistheusualroutesnowshoersandskierstravelinordertoreachTheLoch.

Thetrailsnakesupwardthroughahalfdozenorsomoderatelysteepswitchbacks,andsoondeliversyoutothenortheastendofTheLoch.Thisfirstviewisamongthefinest.Framingthelakebehinditsfarshorestandsanhonorguardoftoweringpeaks:TaylorandPowell,astridetheContinentalDivide.TaylorPeaksportsaglacieronitssoutheastflank,andAndrewsGlaciercanalsobeseenfromsomeviewpoints.Arockypeninsulaintrudeshundredsoffeetintothelake,andisapopularplacetostopforarestandasnack.ThesoutheastshoreofthelakerisestoaformidableescarpmentknownasTheCathedralWallachallengetorockclimberswhoareoftenseentestingtheirskillshere.Theentiresettingisatoncesereneandexciting,gentleandmajestic.

Continuingalongthepathasitparallelsthenorthandwestshores,therearemanyspotswherethehikerisinvitedtogodowntothewater'sedge,orclimbarockyoutcropforaview.Oftenthesurroundingpeaksfunnelbreezesdowntheirslopesandacrossthe

lake,animatingitssurfaceinabrilliantshimmer.Givenawarmday,thesebreezesarewelcomeandrefreshing,butcanbemorethanbracingduringwinter.

Thereismorethanenoughheretowarrantspendingtheentireday,butthosewantingtocontinuecangoontoTimberlineFalls,LakeofGlass,andSkyPond(seep.61).Alternatively,goingbacktothetrail

WinterstormatTheLoch

junctiongivesthechoiceofheadinguptoMillsLakeorHaiyaha(seep.51orp.72).Buteventhosereturningtothetrailheadwillhaveexperiencedsomeofthefinestsceneryinthepark.

GettingThereinWinter

ThewintertrailtoTheLochsharesitsinitialportionwiththewintertrailtoMillsasummerhorseroutethatbranchesofftotherightoftheAlbertaFallsTrailatthesecondbridgeneartheGlacierGorgeTrailheadandascends,attimessteeply,toajunctionoftrailsleadingtoHaiyaha,Mills,andTheLoch.

ThepathtoTheLochandMillspassesatriangularhitchingrailandthendividestheleft-handroutegoingontoMills,therighttoTheLoch.

NextthetrailentersthestreambedofIcyBrook,andthefrozenstreamitselfbecomesthepath.Asitascendsmoreandmoresteeply,theblackwallsofthecanyonrisehigheraboveitandinclinemorepercipitouslyuntiloneofthewallstiltspastverticalandjutsoutoverthetrail.Atthetopoftheascentyouleavethecanyon,andfindyourselfatthenortheastcornerofthelake,CathedralWallonyour

leftanunbeatableentrancetoanunbeatablesetting.Thisspectacularapproachisaspecialtreatreservedforthewintertravelerduringtheotherseasons,IcyBrookcascadesthroughthecanyon,appropriatingthewintertrail.

TimberlineFalls,LakeofGlass,andSkyPond

Distance: 4miles;4.2miles;and4.6milesrespectivelyAltitudegain: 1,420feet;1,580feet;and1,660feet

respectivelyAltitudeatdestination:

10,660feet;10,820feet;and10,900feetrespectively

Herearethreehighlydistinctiveandscenicgoals,allwithin0.6milesofeachother.Eachaloneisworthatriptothehighcountry,butthishikeoffersallthreeplusavisittoAlbertaFallsandTheLoch.Duringmostofthesummer,TimberlineFallsisadelicatemacrameofstreamsratherthanaplumetingtorrent;whileeachofthetwolakesinitsownwayexemplifiesthefiercebeautyofthealpineregion.

TheroutebeginswiththehiketoTheLoch(seep.58),andcontinuesalongtheshoreofthelaketoleaveitatthenorthwestend.ThepathfollowsIcyBrookupstreamthroughconiferousforest,theconifersjoinedbywillow,alder,elderberry,andriverbirchnearthestream.Connoisseursofstreamsidesceneryaresuretobeimpressedbythissectionofthetrail.

Lessthan1milefromTheLochthetrailsendsabranchofftotheright,headingwesttoAndrewsGlacier.WithSkyPondthegoal,ignorethebranchandcontinueonthemainpath,crossingseveralsmallstreamswhichhelptodefineacoolandshadynookornamentedwithmosses,boggrasses,andavarietyofothermoisture-lovingplants.

Withinahalfmileorsotheforestthinsandgiveswaytolush,marshymeadows.TimberlineFallsisanotherhalfmileupthetrail,andlookingaheadyoucanseeabitofthefallsandthemistitgenerates.

Thepathbecomessteeperandleavesthetreesaltogether,risingabovethemeadowsontoatalusslope.Followthered-flaggedpoleswhichmarktheindistincttrail.Takecareofyourfootingsomeoftherocksareunstableandsomemaybewetandslippery.

TimberlineFalls

ThesteepbutshortascentuptheslopedeliversyoutothebaseofTimberlineFallsand,lookingback,asuperbviewofTheLochsome270feetbelowand1.3milesaway.TimberlineFallsisnotparticularlyhighorfull,butitdoeshaveadelicatebeautythatisinstrikingcontrasttoitsstarksurroundings.It'sabranchingfall,cascadingdownablackgranitewallintoawide,shallow,cobble-filledcatchbasin,andthendiffuselydrainingawaydownhillthroughdozensofankle-deeprivulets.It'simpossibletoforegosomeboulderhoppingintherunoffatthebaseofthefalls,butthereisstillmuchmoretosee.

LakeofGlass

LakeofGlassisperchedabovethefalls,setbackafewhundredfeetfromtherimofthecliff.It'stherunofffromthelakethatfeedsthefalls.Buthowdoyougetuptoit?Therouteisoneofthepark'sbetterkeptsecretsunmarked,inconspicuous,andatfirstglanceunlikely.It'stotherightofthefallsasyoufacethem,andclosebyinfact,someoftherunoffsometimesstreamsdowntheveryrouteyouascend,makingthebouldersyouuseasstairswetandslippery.Inafewplacesthe

LakeofGlass

initialfifteenfeetbeingthemostchallengingtheledgesarebarelyaswideasaboot,andthehandholdsarenonetoosecure.Althoughtheclimbtotheledgetakesonlyafewminutes,youwillwanttochooseyourstepscarefullyandwatchyourfooting.

Andwhenyoureachtheledge,there'stheLakeofGlassmountainbacked,andnestledinacirquecarvedoutofgranite.Thegraniterisestomassiveoutcroppings,bareinsomeplaces,butinothershavingenoughseamsandpocketsofdirttosupportadwarfforestofsubalpinefir,thetreesbarely3feettall,wind-torturedandtwistedtothecontoursoftherock.It'saspectacularscene.

Asclearasthelakeis,itisnomoreglasslikethanmanyothers;andmoreoftenthannot,windrakesitssurface,substitutingscintillatingmovementforglassystillness.Scramblingovertheledgesadjacenttothelakeisfuninitself.Insomeplacestherockrisestoa15feetclifftheperfectplacetoseekshelterfromthewind,enjoylunch,andrelax.

TocontinueontoSkyPond,lessthan0.5mi.away,proceedcounterclockwisearoundLakeofGlass,followingthecairnsupagraniteledgeandthendownagaintotheshoreofthelake.Thetrailhugstheshoreforawhile,penetratingthroughadenseandtangled

elfinforestofsubalpinefir.Soonthepathisblockedbyahugeboulder.Scrambleoveritstopandpickupthetrailontheotherside.Fiftyfeetfurtheronyouencounterwhatseemstobeamoresignificantobstaclealargerock

UnnamedwaterfallnearSkyPond

outcroppingwithprecipitoussides.However,justbeforereachingtherock,thetrailveerssharplyawayfromthelakeforafewpacesandthensharplyswitchesbacktoaledgeonthesideoftherock,narrowingtonexttonothingforahalf-dozenstepsorso.

FromthispointtoSkyPondthehikeisaneasystroll.Thetrailisclearlydefinedandwelllaidoutwithflatsteppingstonesitseemsmorelikeagardenpaththananabove-timberlinetrailthroughawildernessarea.Theroutepassesthroughanalpinemeadow,almostdevoidoftrees,butlushingrasses,studdedhereandtherewithshrubbywillows.Insomeplacesthereareboulderssurroundedbysmallreflectingponds;extensivepatchesofthegreenestmossgrowwhereshadedbythestone.

AfewhundredfeetfromtheSkyPond,youwillseeasmallthreadwaterfalloffthetrailtotheleft(east).Ittumblesoveraledgeabout15feethigh.ThefallsareframedbyshrubberythatsetsitofffromthebarrenflanksofThatchtopMountainbehindit.Itsdelicatebeautyandmodestproportionsseemmagicallyoutofplaceinthisheroic

landscape.Duringmostofthedaythewaterfallisdramaticallylitbuteveninshadeit'sagem.

SkyPond

AhundredstepsorsofromthisunnamedwaterfallbringsyoutotheshoreofSkyPonddesolateandmagnificent.PowellPeakandTaylorPeakstandoverthelake(thefirstsoutheastofthesecond),theirflanksrisingsteeplyfromthewater,alltalus,scree,andsmoothgranite,leavingonlythenarrowapproachtoprovidecloseaccesstotheshore.Drapedbetweenthetwopeaks,itswhitenessinhighcontrasttothedarkstone,isTaylorGlacier.Asisexpectedatthesehighalpinelakes,thewindisfierceandnearlyconstant;andasittearsacrossthewateronasunnydayitagitatesthesurfacetoaglitterthatconfusesfireandice.It'sasceneofstarkdramatheperfectclimaxtothehike.

Theviewscomingdownonthereturntripareevenmorespectacularthanthoseseenontheascent.TherearepanoramicviewsofLakeofGlass,TheLoch,andLochValebelow;and,withtheexceptionoftheshortbutsteepclimbnearTimberlineFalls,thedescentiseasyenoughtofreeourattentionfortheenjoymentofitall.

SkyPond

NORTHEASTTrailsFromBearLake13BearLake,DreamLake,EmeraldLake14LakeHaiyaha15OdessaLake16HallettPeak17BierstadtLake

Iftheparkcanbesaidtohaveacentralhub,BearLakeisit.Severalofthemostpopularhikesbeginherehikestomountainsummitsandhikestolakeshikesthattakeyoutosomeofthefinestsceneryinthepark.Hereyouwillfindtrailsthatareshortandeasy,andtrailsthatarelongandstrenuousthatleadfromdenseforesttoopentundraabovetreeline.

Toreachtheparkinglot,takeBearLakeRoadsouthfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrancefor9miles.Ifthelotisfull,alikelyeventifyouarrivemidmorningonasummerweekend,parkintheshuttlebusparkinglot,4.8milesfromtheBeaverMeadowsentranceandtakethebustoBearLake.

BearLake,DreamLake,andEmeraldLake

Trailhead(1): BearLake

Distanceoneway:1.

1milestoDreamLake;1.8milestoEmeraldLake

Altitudegain: 430feettoDreamLake;600feettoEmeraldLake

ElevationatDestination:

9,900feetatDreamLake;10,080feetatEmeraldLake

BearLake,DreamLake,andEmeraldLakearethreeofthemostfamousattractionsintheparknotsurprising,consideringtheirbeautyandmagnificentsurroundings.Althoughtheysharesomeofthesamebackgroundfeatures,theyvaryincharacterfromlushandserene,tostarkandrugged.Thesethreelakesareconnectedbyaneasytrailthattakesyouthroughpleasantforestandalongdelightfulstreams.Nowonderthishikeisoneofthemostpopularinthepark.

BearLake

Althoughonlyafewhundredfeetfromitsparkinglot,BearLakeisascenictreasure.BehinditssouthwestshorerisestheangularhulkofHallettPeak;tothesouthandabiteastrisesLongsPeak.Nolakehasamoreimpressivebackdrop.Aninformative,self-guiding,0.5-milenaturetrailgoescompletelyaroundthelake,andseveralbenchesandplatformsinviteyoutolingerforalongerlook.

NymphLake

ThetrailtoDreamandEmeraldlakesleavesBearLakeandproceedsthroughpineforestfor0.5milestoNymphLakeajoyinitsownright.Inmidsummer,thedeepbluewaterisstuddedwithyellowpondlilies.FlattopMountainandHallettPeakframethelakeontheapproach,whileafewstepslaterit'sLongsPeakthatagaindominatesthe

background.

BearLake

LeavingNymphLake,thepathreturnstotheforest,everysooftencrossingsomeminorstreamormarshyarearepletewithwildflowers.Nearthe0.9-milemark,attherockyelbowofasharpandsteepswitchback,thereisanopportunitytostepoutontothebouldersalongsideasmallcascadeofTyndallCreek.It'salikelyspottospyAmericandippers(ouzels)thosedapper,gray,lark-sizedbirdswiththecomical,bobbingmotions,thatcavortaroundrushingwater,oftendisappearingbehindcascades.Thetrailcontinuesthroughafewmoreswitchbacks,andthenthereitisDreamLake.

DreamLake

Thelakedeservesitsnameanditsfameit'smagnificent.HallettandFlattoppeaksformthebackdrop,hereevenmoreprominentandimposingthanwhenseenfromBearLake.Theshoreisvariedandirregularinsomeplacesit'sknottedintorockyescarpments,inothersitrisessmoothlyfromthewatertotheforest'sedge.Atthemidpointofthenorthshore,aruggedpeninsulajutsoutintothelake,itsflanks

ornamentedbygnome-likelimberpines.Butthosegrowingoutoftherockonthenortheastshorearethemostpicturesqueofallancientsofenormousgirth,theirrootsgrippingtherockliketalons,theytwist

NymphLake;LongsPeakisseeninthebackgroundtotheright

andleanoutoverthewaterstretchingthelawofgravitytothebreakingpoint.Thereisreasonenoughtostayheretheentireday,butmanygoontoLakeHaiyaha(seep.72)ortoEmeraldLake.

ThetrailtoEmeraldLakefollowsthenorthshoreofDreamLake,andthenclimbssteeplyoverrocksbeforelevelingout.Anothersteepandrockysectionfollows,thisoneclosetoTyndallCreek.Herethecreekhascutitswaythroughtherock.Yellowmonkeyflowers,sedges,andmanyothermoisture-lovingplantsdecoratetheminicanyon,luxuriatinginthesprayofthesmallcascades.It'saplacewhosebeautyfarexceedsitssize.

Fromherethetrailleadsthroughmixedforestwhereconifersanddeciduoustreesmingleamonggiganticboulders.Thenagainthetrailbecomesrockier,andafinalshortbutsteepstretchdeliversyoutoEmeraldLake.

EmeraldLake

Fromitsshorethelakeisusuallymoreonyxthanemerald,thesteelywaterreflectingtheblackflanksofHallettPeakandFlattopMountain.It'sastarklandscapetotallydifferentfromBearLake,andevenmoreruggedthanDreamLake.Thetrailleadsontobouldersthatdefinethenorthwestshore,andyoucanclimbhigherforabetterview.Therearenotrailsaroundtheremainderoftheshore,sincethemountainsrisesosteeplyfromthewater,butthisiswhatmakesthescenesoimposing.

DreamLakeinWinter

EvenduringwintertheDreamLakeTraildrawsmorethanitsfairshareofvisitors,althoughduringthisseasonthesectionlinkingDreamtoEmeraldisnotrecommendedsinceseveralpartsposeasignificantavalanchehazard.

ThewinterroutefromDreamLaketoNymphLakeiseasybutoftenslickwithiceearlyintheseason.NymphLakeinwinterisafeaturelessexpanseoficeandsnow,butHallettPeak,FlattopMountain,andLongsPeak,seenfromthenorthandnortheastshores,areevenmoreimposingwithamantleofsnow.AtNymphthewintertraildivergesfromthatusedinsummer,leadingclockwisearoundthesouthernshoreofthelake,ratherthancounterclockwise.Thenitclimbssteeplytoaridgeoverlookingacanyonguardedhereandtherebymassiveoutcroppingsofrock,bareandblackagainstthesnow.Here,beginningskierswillfindthegoingroughandevensnowshoerswillhavetofocusattentionalternatelybetweentheirfootingandthemagnificentscenery.

Inthebackground,toweringoverthecanyonandthesurroundingvalleys,aresomeofthehighestpeaksinthepark,andinashortwhile,thetrailaffordsagrandviewofLongsPeaktotheleft(southeast).AtthispointyoucrossTyndallCreek.Althoughthesurfaceisfrozensolidandcoveredwithdeepsnow,theflowofwaterisusuallyaudibleunderfoot.Thenafewmorestepsbringsyoutoariseoverlookingthelakeandanunsurpassedlandscape.

EmeraldLakebelowthesaddlebetweenHallettPeakandFlattopMountain

LakeHaiyaha

Eveninaregionrenownedforthevarietyandsplendorofitslakes,Haiyahastandsoutassomethingdifferent.ItsIndianname,translated'BigRocks',onlyhintsatitsruggednessandindividuality.InthatcircleofgrandlakesBear,Nymph,Dream,Haiyaha,TheLoch,andMillsnoneismoreimposingthanHaiyaha.

ThepreferredroutebeginsatBearLakeandfollowsthetrailtoDreamLake(seep.68).JustbeforereachingDreamLake,thetrailtoLakeHaiyahabranchesleft(south)andcrossesabridge.ThenthetrailleadstotheeastflankofHallettPeakandbeginstoascend,somewhatsteeplyatfirst.Soon,afteraswitchback,itlevelsouttoalongtraversewhichprovidessuperbviewsofBearandNymphlakesinthevalleybelow,andLongsPeaktothesoutheast.

Thetraildescendsgraduallytoastream,crossesitbyabridge,andbeginsagradualascentthroughpineforesttothelake,aboutaquarterofamileaway.

Nownearingtimberline,thelandscapebeginstoharden.Onlythetreesofsternerstuffcansurvivetheeight-month-longwinterofgalewindsandheavysnows.SomeofthemostancientandpicturesquetreesintheparkarefoundontheshoresofHaiyaha.Burledandburly-boledlimberpinesbentnearlyhorizontaldigtheirtalon-likerootsintotherockcrevicesinsearchofaholdfastandnourishment.Enormousblocksofcleavedandquarriedstonearescatteredoverthelandscapelikesomemetropolisinruins.Severalsmallpools,reflectingthesky

andthemassivebouldersaroundthem,anticipateHaiyaha.Scamperingovertherocksbringsyoutotheledgesabovethelake.HallettPeakrisesupfromtheoppositeshoretoenhancethegrandeurofthesetting.

Onecaneasilyspendthedayscamperingovertherocks,exploringtheshorelineandnearbypools.Butthosewantingtoextendthehikecanbacktrackaquarter-miletothetrailjunction,andcontinueontoTheLoch,Mills,AlbertaFalls,andthentoGlacierGorgeJunction;orbacktracktoBearLake.

LongsPeakfromtheLakeHaiyahaTrail

OneofseveralpoolsneartheshoreofLakeHaiyaha

Ancientlimberpineatlakeside

HaiyahainWinter

Haiyahainwinter?Yes,it'sstillthere,butaccessingitisadifferentmatter.UnlikeMillsLakeandTheLoch,therearenorecommendedwinterroutes;indeed,therearenoreliablewinterroutesatall.Assnowispiledonsnow,astemperatureandpressurechangethegranularcharacterandweakentheadhesionbetweenlayers,thetrailpresentsanevergreateravalanchehazard.

AccessfromDreamLake,theusualsummerroute,involvesswitchbacksandtraversesontheeastflankofHallett,whichmanagestoaccruemorethanitsfairshareofsnowinspiteofitssteepness.Nevertheless,thisisthesafestroute,andthesafesttimetotravelitthroughsnowisduringlateautumnorearlywinter,whentheavalanchedangerisminimal.Eventhen,cautionisadvised.

InwinterLakeHaiyahaandtheadjoiningpoolsareencasedinice,andtheiceismantledwithathickblanketofsnow.Althoughsomeofthelake'suniquegeometryishidden,theancientpinesarestillthere,standingguardoverthefrozenlandscapeamongthegiantsnow-cappedboulders.Evenundersnowit'sadramaticscene.

OdessaLake

Trailhead(1): BearLakeor:FernLakeTrailhead(seep.90)

Distanceoneway: 4.1milesfromBearLake;4.4milesfromtheFernLakeTrailhead

TrailheadAltitudegain:

1,215feetfromBearLake;1,865feetfromtheFernLakeTrailhead

Elevationatdestination:

10,020feet

OdessaLakeisanothermagnificentfeatureoftheBearLakeregion,rivalingNymph,Dream,Haiyaha,Mills,andTheLochinthemajestyofitssetting.Walkingtothelaketakesyouthroughavarietyoflandscapes,fromdenseforesttoopentundra.Andsincethetrailismorethan4mileslong,thehikeoffersmoresolitudethanmanyoftheothersinthisregionanadvantageforenjoyingthetrail'smanyamenities.

TherearetwoapproachestoOdessaLake:a4.1-mileroutefromBearLake,anda4.5-mileroutefromtheFernLakeTrailhead.ThelongerrouteisalsosteeperbutfortheextraeffortyougetthepleasureofseeingFernCreek,ThePool,FernFalls,andFernLakeitselfalongtheway.TheFernLakeTrailheadparkingareaissmallsoplantoarriveearly.

Ontheotherhand,theapproachtoOdessaLakefromBearLakeisfarmoredramatic.Moreover,thedistanceisshorter,andthealtitudegainisonly1,200feetalthoughthisisabitmisleading,sinceyoufirstclimbto10,675feetbeforedescendingsomewhatsteeplytothelakeat10,020feet.

TheinitialportionofthetrailcoincideswiththeroutetoFlattopMountainandHallettPeak(seep.78),thebranchpointoccurringjustafteragenerous0.5-milestretchofpaththroughamarvelousgroveofaspen.Seeingthisstandinfallcolorisguaranteedtopropelyouskippingandsingingalongthetrail.

Pasttheaspen,thetrailclimbsgentlythroughadenseandshadyconiferous

Pasttheaspen,thetrailclimbsgentlythroughadenseandshadyconiferousforestofspruce,pine,andfir.Afterabout2.5miles,theforestyieldstotalusandtundra,andopenstoextraordinaryviewsofFlattopandNotchtopmountains.Asharp,right-handturn(tothenorth)nearthepath'shighestpointyieldsthefirstviewofOdessaLake,about0.3milesawayandhundredsoffeetbelowinOdessaGorge,ablue-greenwelcomematatthebaseoftheLittleMatterhorn.Asyoudescend,theforestobscuresthelake,butoccasionallyanopeningthroughthetreesoffersatantalizingviewofthewater.

OdessaLake

AspenandLongsPeaknearthestartoftheOdessaLakeTrail

Thepathdowntotheshoreleavesthemaintrailafewhundredyardspastthelake,descendstoabridgewhichcrossesFernCreek,thenfollowsthecreekbacktoitssource.Thefirstviewofthelakefromtheshoreisasspectacularasanyother.NotchtopMountaintowersabovethelaketothesouth;tothesouthwest,standstheLittleMatterhorn,itsbroadconeshapecappedbyaclusterofupward-pointingpylons.

FromthesourceofFernCreek,afainttrailleadscounterclockwisealongtheshoreofthelake,moreorlessincorporatingsomebouldersandrockyoutcropsalongtheway.Itisfairlyeasytoscrambleuptheserocksandfindacozyspotforlunch,rest,andagoodviewofthelake.

Ifyoucan'tdecidewhichroutetotaketoOdessaLake,consideraone-waytourusingatwo-carshuttle.Leaveonecaratonetrailheadanddrivetotheothertostartthehike.Ofthetwopossibilities,leavingonecarattheFernLakeTrailheadandstartingthehikeatBearLakehasseveraladvantages:thesmallFernLakeparkingareaislikelytobefilledearlierintheday,andtheBearLakeTrailheadis640feethigherthantheFernLakeTrailhead.Thetrailhead-to-trailheaddistanceis8.5mileslong,anditishardtofindamorescenichikeofthatdistance.

CrossingatalusslopetowardNotchtopMountain

HallettPeak

HallettPeakisoneofthemostdistinctivelandmarksintheparkprominentbysize,form,andlocation.It'sthebackdropagainstwhichyoufirstseeBearLakeandDreamLake,andit'sanotablefeatureoftheBierstadtLakeTrail.Thehiketakesyouupthroughthreeclimatezones,crossesoverFlattopMountain,traversestheridgesupportingTyndallGlacier,andthenascendstothesummitofHallettPeak.Ifthissuggestsvariety,youwon'tbedisappointed.Therearegrandviewsthroughoutthehike,withthebestviewofallawaitingyouatthetop.

Atthestartofthehike,thetrailleavesthenorthshoreofBearLakeandascendsthroughaboulder-strewnaspengrove.Thetreetrunksinthisstandareparticularlywhite,andcontrastsharplyagainstgray-blackboulders.Morninglightilluminatesthetrees,stagingashowpieceineveryseason.

Afterathirdofamile,atthejunctionwithatrailtoBierstadtLake,thetrailanglesleft(west)andcontinuesitsmoderateclimbthroughtheaspengrove.Thegroveendsnearthesecondtrailjunctiontheroutetotheright(northwest)leadstoOdessaLakeandFernLake,theonetotheleft(southwest)leadstothepresentgoal,HallettPeakbywayofFlattopMountain.Thepathentersconiferousforestdominatedbyspruceandfir.Thetreesarelarge,andthepathwell-shaded.Grouseberry,hollygrape,andbearberrycarpetthefloor.Cliffjamesiaandmountainmapleenjoytheareasofdappledsunlightwheretheforestcanopyismoresparse.

Abroadbutshallowgorgestrewnwithenormousbouldersappearstotherightofthetrail.Thegorgeisdryinsummerbutevokesimagesofatorrentialrivercrashingtothevalleybelow.Thepathveersawayfromthegorgeinaswitchback,andbysuccessiveswitchbacksclimbssteadilyupward.

QuitesuddenlythetrailemergesataclearingwithaspectacularviewtheDreamLakeoverlook.Justasspectacularistheviewtothewestthroughalatticeoftrees:HallettPeakanditslessimposingcompanionFlattopMountain,thetwospannedbythewhitedraperyofTyndallGlacier.

HallettPeakfromtheDreamLakeoverlook

Thepathcontinuesonamoderategradethroughconiferousforestthetrees,nowprimarilysubalpinefir,becomingshorterandstouter.Furtheron,theforestbreaksintodisjointstandsofdwarftrees,eachaLilliputiangardenbarelyheadhigh.Soonthetreesareonlykneehigh,cowedbythegalestocreepalongtheground.TheneventhefirsdisappeartimberlineandspectacularviewsofLongs,McHenrys,Powell,andTaylorpeaksopenuptothesouth.

Densestandsofshrubbywillow,twofeethigh,appearinisolatedpatches.It'ssurprisingtofindwillowsuphereawayfromanylakeorriver,butseveralalpinespeciesarecommoninthepark,andatthisaltitudethelongwintersnowfallandfrequentsummerrainsprovidewaterenough.Lateinsummerthewillowscolorinhuesoftawnyrusset;butthey'reattheirbestinearlysummer,denselydecked-outintheirfurry,silverycatkins.Potentillasarealsocommonatthisaltitude,reliablysportingtheirbuttercup-likeblossomsfromlatespringtoearlyfall.

Continuingthehike,wesoonreachanoverlook1,300feetdown,

nearlyasastonefalls,isEmeraldLake.Withitsdeepgreencolorandwind-blownsurface-sparkle,itlookslikeitsnamesakegem,andit'ssetlikeagemamongthesurroundingdarkgraymountains.Takenoticeof

EmeraldLakefromtheFlattopMountainTrail

theclifftotheright(west)withitsinterestingstriationsandthedwarfedsubalpinefirsclingingtoitsshearface.

NearlyatthetopofFlattop,flatasitis,thetrailisstillgentlyascending.However,itisflatenoughforbasinsofwatertocollecthereandthere,andthoughtreeless,thereareallsortsofdwarfplantscarpetingthescree,arockgardenofalpinejewels:gentian,anderigeron,andsaxifrage,andavenshunkeringaboutthebouldersforwarmthandprotectionfromthewind,lookinglikehummocksofmossuntiltheycoverthemselveswithmassesofbloom.

ThehikecontinuesacrossFlattopwithmanyremarkableviewsalongthewayviewsoflake-studdedvalleysandridgeafterridgeofmountains.LongsPeakrisestothesoutheast,unmistakablewithitscubicalcrownofgraniteanditsnorthflankornamentedbyanextraordinaryridgeofpinnaclescalledTheKeyboardoftheWinds.HallettPeakcomesintoviewnow,aheadandtotheleft(southeast),risinganother400feet.Fromhereitisnearlyaperfectconeblackandfeatureless.

TheFlattopplateauswingsaroundcounterclockwisetogiveaccesstoHallettPeak,andinthecrookoftheswing,theiceandsnowmantle

ofTyndallGlacierisplasteredtothenearlyverticalwall.Signswarnoftheextremehazardinvolvedintooclosealook.

Tothispointthetrailisfairlysmoothandsandy.Butnow,asyouskirttheglacierandbeginthefinalascenttothesummitofHallettPeak,

CairnmarkingthesummitofHallettPeak

thepathdisintegratesintoajumbleofirregularchunksofsharp-edgedgraniteboulders.Cairnsmarktheway,buttherouteisdifficulttodistinguishfromthesurroundingrubblethatcomprisesthesummit.Thisisn'taneasystretch,butneitherisitverylongandsoonyouareatthetopofthemountain,clearlymarkedbyarightandproperminimountainofacairn,about6feethigh.

Theviewfromthesummitissuperb:TyndallGlacierandFlattop'stoptothenorth;GrandLake,ShadowMountainLake,andLakeGranbytothesouthwest;themanylakesandpeakstotheeast;andtothesoutheast,thetoweringhulkofLongs.You'resurroundedonallsidesbyspectacularscenerey,andittakessometimetotakeitallin.So,findasoftrock,sitdownandcatchyourbreath,havelunch,andenjoytheview.

MosthikersplantoreachthesummitofHallettbymidday,forinmostseasonsafternoonthunderstormscanbeexpectedtowellupnomatterhowcloudlessthemorningsky.Attheveryleast,slickwetrocksandslipperyportionsofthetrailwillrobyouoftheeasyandpleasantdescentsowellearnedonthewayup.Allowingthreehoursfortheascentshouldgiveyouenoughtime.

Forthoseunaccustomedtothealtitude,thismaynotbeatrivialhike;butaslowpacedeservingofthescenerywillminimizethedifficultywhilemaximizingthepleasure.

BierstadtLake

Trailhead(2): BierstadtLakeTrailheador(1):BearLake

Distanceoneway: 1.4milesfromtheBierstadtLakeTrailhead;1.6milesfromBearLake

Altitudegain: 566feetfromtheBierstadtLakeTrailhead;255feetfromBearLake

9,416feet

Thisisashortandeasytrailtoapleasantsubalpinelake.Theroutepassesthroughanextraordinarystandofaspen,andofferssweepingviewsofthesurroundingmountains.

TheparkinglotattheBierstadtLakeTrailheadisdirectlyofftheroadabouttwo-thirdsofthewayfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrancetoBearLake;thoughsmall,thelotusuallyhassomefreeslotsexceptduringthepeakofthesummerseasonandattheheightoftheaspengoldrush.

Thehikebeginsinadenseevergreenforest,butasthetrailascends,therearefewertrees,andthelandscapebeginstoopen.Withinthefirst

BierstadtLake

HallettPeakfromtheBierstadtLakeTrail

half-mileyouaretreatedtoexceptionalviewsofLongsPeaktothesouth,themountainframedbetweenstandsofaspen.Thetrailcontinuestoclimbthroughlongswithbacks:theeast-headingstretchespresentaredhillsidespottedwithgraysage;thewest-headingstretchesoffersuperbviewsofHallettPeak,TyndallGlacier,andFlattopMountain.

Afteraboutamile,thetraildeliversyoutoahillsideofaspen,theirtrunksbonewhiteandcrooked,leaningoutovertheslope.Thestandhasanetherealquality,particularlyinthespringwhenthenewcropofleavesemergeslimegreenandtranslucent,flutteringintheslightestbreeze.Butinthefall,whenthealchemyofthefirstfrostscausetheentirehillsidetoeruptingoldenyellow,thetrailbecomesashowpiece.

Beyondthisgrovethepathlevelsoffandpassesthroughsparseforestwithinterestingmixturesofpine,aspen,andjuniper,enlivenedduringsummerbythebrightflowerspiresofgoldenbanner.Thentheforestbecomesmorehomogeneousaslodgepolepineassertsdominance.

Soonyouareatthelake.Coniferssurroundit,andtheshoreismarshy,itsoutlineblurredbysedgesinandoutofthewater.It'sa

gentlescenepresentedinsoftfocus.Toenjoythelakefully,explorethetrailthatleadsaroundit.ThereisadramaticviewofLongsPeakfromthenorthshore.

Onthewestsideofthelake,theshoretrailmeetstheMillCreekTrailandatrailtoBearLake.Thelatterisaslightlylongerroutethanthatdescribedherebutinvolveslessaltitudegain,andistheonepreferredbymanyskiers.

NORTHEASTOtherThanGlacierGorgeorBearLake18CubLake19FernLake20GemLake21YpsilonLake22DeerMountain23OldUteTrailtoBeaverMeadows24Chapin,Chiquita,andYpsilonMountains

Thissectionoftheparkhasawidevarietyoflandscapes,andthetrailsdescribedherereflectthatvariety.Onetrailclimbstothesummitofamountainandoffersexcellentviewsalongthewayandfromthetop.Anotherisaone-wayhikethatstartsinthealpinetundra,passesthroughthesubalpinezone,andendsinamontanezonemeadow.AnotherleadsupthroughthecuriousrockformationsofLumpyRidgetoalakesetinastoneamphitheater.Theotherthreetrailsendatmountain-backedlakes.Onetrailtakesyoualongspectacularriverscenery;anotherleadsacrossflower-filledmeadows,whilethethirdofferssuperbviewsofmountainsandagorgetornopenbythefloodwatersofRoaringRiver.Toreachthenortheastcornerofthepark,takeU.S.34orU.S.36toEstesPark.Thetrailheadsarefarenoughaparttorequireseparateinstructionsonhowtoreachthemandthesewillbegivenunderthecorrespondinghikedescriptions.

CubLake

Trailhead(1): CubLakeTrailhead

Amongtheshortandeasytrailsinthepark,thisisafavorite.Thishikeoffersmarvelousriverscenery,exceptionallyflowerymeadows,superbstandsofpineandaspen,andfeaturesaserenelybeautifullakebackedbymountainsatitsdestination.

ToreachthetrailheadfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrance,followtheBearLakeRoadsouthfor1.2miles;thenturnright(west)towardtheMoraineParkCampground.TheturnoffisclosetoasideroadtotheleftthatleadsuphilltotheMoraineParkVisitorCenter.After0.7milesturnleftandfollowthesignstoCubLakeandFernLake.

Thetrailheadparkinglothasfewspaces,andduringthepeakoftheseasonisusuallyfullbymidmorning.Ifyou'reclosedoutofthislot,youcancontinuealongtheroadtotheFernLakeparkingareanogreatdisaster,butthiswilladdabout1miletoeachdirectionifyouwalkbacktotheCubLakeTrailheadbythepathparallelingtheroad.Alternatively,takingtheFernLakeTrailtoThePoolandthentoCubLakewilladd1.7milestothetripineachdirectionanoptionthatofferssomelovelyriversideviewsattheexpenseofforegoingtheCubLakeTrailaltogetheritgetsyoutothelake,butit'snotafairtradeoff.Eventhisstrategyisnotfailsafe:althoughtheFernLakeparkingareaisconsiderablylarger,itisoftenfilledby10a.m.

Thetrailbeginswithasequenceofbridges,thelargestcrossingtheBigThompsonRiver.Totheright(west)thesceneisstagedbyadramaticbackdropofmountains,tothelefttherivermeanders

throughavalleyfilledwithgrassesandwildflowers.Marshyareasandsmallpondsbordertheriver;alder,shrubbywillows,andred-ozierdogwoodcoverthebanks.Cowparsnipwhatanuglynameforsuchaboldandbeautifulplantputsonashowformostofthesummerwithitshugemaplelikeleavesandshowyflatheadsofwhiteblossoms.Shootingstarsandlady-tressesorchidhaveamoredelicatebeauty.Althoughnotascommon,theytoocanbeeasilysearchedoutalongthebanks.

Thetrailthenleadsacrossabroadvalleycoveredwithgrasssportingfeatheryseedheadsandautumntintsofbeigeandbronzebymid-July.Themountainscreateadistantblue-purplebackdropforthenextactof

CubLake

theflowershow:yarrow,black-eyedsusan,coneflower,blanketflower,bee'sbalm,monk'shood,erigeron,fireweed,campanula,anoccasionalbrilliantorangewoodlily,anddozensofotherflowerssparkcolorontothemeadows.Hugelichen-coverederraticsandrockoutcroppingscounterpointthesoftnessofthegrasses,whilegroupsofponderosapineadddramatothescene.

Gradually,thesmallstandsofpinegivewaytolargerones,andthesemergeintoanextensiveforest.Buthereandtherethepineisinterruptedbyfinestandsofaspenthatcolorreliablyeachfall.Manyoftheseglensarecarpetedbypteridiumferns,simultaneouslyboldandrefined,andthesetooarepaintedgoldbythechillofautumntheentirecolorschemesetoffbyblack-greenconifers,darkrock,shadowedhills,anddistantmountains.

Ashortandgentleclimbbringsyoutothelakeitself,borderedontwosidesbyaseaofundulatinggrass,rimmedbybouldersontheoppositeshore,andbackedtothewestbyStonesPeak.Wherethe

surfaceofthelakeisclearitreflectstheskyandmountains;elsewhereitispatchedwithyellowpond-lilly,thefloatingleavesstuddedhereandtherewithlarge,goblet-shapedgoldenblooms.

Thepathcontinuesalongthenorthshoreofthelake,ascendingtogiveafineoverviewbeforeenteringforestonthewaytoThePoolwhereitjoinstheFernLakeTrail.

BigThompsonRiverneartrailhead

Aspen,oneofseveralspectacularstandsalongthistrail

CubLakeinwinter

CubLakeinWinter

HikingtheCubLakeTrailinwinterbringsitsownspecialrewards.Fewtrailsoffersuchdramaticcontrasts:frozenrivershavetheglintofpewter;andthelong,sun-drenchedvalleynearthestartofthetrailisfilledwithfine-twiggedshrubbywillows,back-littoabronzyredhazeandsetagainstthedarkbackdropofshadowedmountains.Fartheron,theponderosapinesstandaloneorinsmallgroups,blackagainstthesnow.Fartherstillarethosewonderfulstandsofaspenthetreesside-litstilettoesofwhiteandpalegray-green,highlightedagainstthemountainsandaskyofdeeperhuethanatanyotherseason.Afewhundredyardsmorebringsyoutothelake,stillimposingagainstitsmountainbackdrop,evenasadesolateexpanseofgrayice.

Althoughthisisashortandeasytrail,thereareafewwinterannoyances.Partofthetrail,particularlytheinitialthird,isopentowindandisoftensnow-freeandrockysoskisandsnowshoeshavetobecarried.Ontheotherhand,somesectionsnearthebeginningareoftencoveredbysnowdrifts,andonehastotakecarenottolosethepath,particularlyonthewayback.Theextracautionisaminor

demand,consideringwhatthistrailhastooffer.

FernFallsandFernLake

Trailhead(2): FernLakeTrailhead

Distanceoneway: 2.7miles(falls);3.8miles(lake)

Altitudegain: 650feet(falls);1,380feet(lake)Elevationatdestination:

8,800feet(falls);9,530feet(lake)

Thosepartialtowaterfeaturesinthelandscapewillfindthatthistrailhasitallsuperbriverscenery,interestingpools,animpressivewaterfall,andamagnificentsubalpinelakebackedbymountains.Addtothissomecuriousrockformations,extensiveferngardens,rarewildflowers,anddenseforestscarpetedwithgrouseberry,andit'seasytounderstandthepopularityofthishike.

ToreachthetrailheadfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrance,followtheroutetoCubLake(seep.86),butcontinueonforanadditionalmile.Again,thesizeoftheparkinglotdoesnotreflectthepopularityofthehike,anditmaybefilledbymidmorningduringthesummermonths.

Thetrailisfairlylevelforthefirstmileorso,closelyfollowingtheBigThompsonRiverupstream.Allsortsofmoisture-lovingplantsthrivealongthebanks.Besideselder,alder,cottonwood,andwillows,therearesuperbclumpsofmountainmapleandriverbirch,thelatterwithpolishedredstemsmorelikethatofacherrytreethanabirch.Andhereiswhereyoufindfernsinsuchabundanceastojustifythenameofthelake,thefalls,andthetrailitself.Pteridiumfernscoverthegroundbytheacreathree-seasontreat,butparticularlyspectacularwhenautumntintsthemgoldinconcertwiththemaple,birch,andalder.

About1milefromthetrailhead,thepathleadsthroughastrange

groupofbouldersArchRocksredincolor,standingonend,maybe30feethighbutwithabitofatilt.It'sastartlingformation,completelyincongruouswiththesurroundings.

ThePool

Anotherhalf-mileleadstoabridgethatcrossestheBigThompsonRiver.Herethetrailsplits;theleft(east-heading)branchgoesontoCubLake.Nearby,FernCreekandSpruceCreekjointheBigThompson,andthewaterflowsthroughabasinitcutforitselfdeepintherock.ThisisThePool.Youseeitfirstandmostcloselyfromthebridge;butthenthetrailclimbstoarockyledgethatgivesyouamoredramaticview.

FernLakeinfrontofNotchtopMountainandLittleMatterhorn

Thebeginningofthetrailfeaturesextensivestandsofferns

PassagethroughtheRedRocks

FernFalls

LeavingThePool,thetrailbecomessteeper,andtheterrainmoreopen,butwithoccasionaljumblesofblocky,blackgraniteboulders.Whenyouagainentertheforest,it'spredominantlyconiferousmostlyfirandspruce.Then,after2.7miles,thetrailreachesFernFalls.It'sabitunkempt,clutteredwithenoughbouldersandfallentreestomakeitasmuchacascadesasafalls,emphasizingthepowerofrushingwater.

Closetothefalls,justoffthetrail,isagrottoshadyanddampwithalushgrowthofcowparsnipandgrassesonitsfloor.Theblackrockwalls,slickwithmoisture,supportahanginggardencompletewithmosses,ferns,andsedges.Thegrottoisasmallfeature,butwellworthacloserlookbeforegoingon.

FernLake

Thelastmileclimbssteadilythroughconiferousforest.Extensivepatchesofgrouseberrycarpetthefloorandcolorearlyinshadesofyellow,red,andorange,oftennicelysetoffbythesilverytrunksofdownedtrees.

Theapproachtothelakeismarshy,theshoresupportingsomefinestandsofelegantgrass.Arockoutcroppingsitshalfinandhalfoutofthewaterthere'sroomenoughforapartyoffour,butyouhavetoarriveearlyenoughtobepartofthatparty.Otherdryperchescanbefoundbygoingalongitseastshore.

FernCreekhasitsoutletontheeasternshorewhereabridgespanningthewetareascontinuesthetrailthatleadstoOdessaLake.Golden-twiggedwillowsandred-ozierdogwoodsbackthebridgeonallsides,givingthesceneanimpressionisticqualitytheeffectcounterpointedbytheruggedpeaksofLittleMatterhornandNotchtopMountainformingabackdroptothesouthwest.It'sadramaticcontrastthat

accountsforagreatdealofthelake'scharacterandappeal.

GemLake

Trailhead(3):

GemLakeTrailhead.ExitofftheU.S.34BypassofEstesParkontoMacGregorAvenue,turnrightbeforeenteringMacGregorRanchandprocedeabout3/4miletoparkingareaonleft.

Distanceoneway:

2miles

Altitudegain:

1,090feet

8,830feet

SomehikersbelittleGemLakeforitspicayunishsize(0.2acre)andpiddlingdepth(about5feet),rankingitasasemi-preciousgemamongtheroyalcollectionoflakesthatgracethepark.Butthisispureslander,forwhatitlacksinsizeitmakesupforinbeauty,andthetrailtakesyouupLumpyRidgethroughsomeofthemostvariedanddistinctivesceneryintheparkallforamere2-mileeffort.

Thereisachoiceoftwotrailheadsthatgiveaccesstothelake:TwinOwlsontheMacGregorRanchwithinparkproperty,andtheGemLakeTrailheadoffDevil'sGulchRoad(whichcontinuesMacGregorAvenue)onprivategrounds.Thefirstisatadshorterandinvolvesabitlessofaclimb,buttheparkinglotcanbefullby10a.m.sincetheareaisameccaforrockclimbers.Soitisoftenlessofahassletostartfromthesecondtrailhead,andthisiswhereourdescriptionbegins.

Thefirst0.8milesofthisrouteleadsthroughprivatelandwherebarbed-wirefencingenforces'NoTrespassing'signs.Buteventhispartofthetrailisinteresting,whereenvy-provokinghomesitesstakeoutacresofwildflowers.Violetmonarda,blueerigeron,yellowsenecio,andwhiteachilleaareamongthemostcommon;butmanyothersarealsoabundant.

Thenthegradebecomessteeper,andshortswitchbackstakeyoutoeverlumpierregionsofLumpyRidge.Nearthe1-milemarkthepathsplitstheleft(west)branchleadingtotheTwinOwlsTrailhead,therightgoesnortheasttoGemLake.

Thepathcontinuesonamoremoderategradethroughopenforestofponderosapine.HugeandbizarreoutcroppingsofrockdominateascenereminiscentofthestonechessmenthatcharacterizeBryceCanyoninUtah,exceptthatthesepiecesaredarkgraygranite,notredsandstone.Hereandtheresidetrailsinviteyoutoexploretheseformations.Don't

Boulderscarvedbytheelementsintofreeformsculpture

ViewofEstesParkfromGemLakeTrail

GemLake

misstheopportunityit'slikestrollingthroughastonesculpturegarden,plustherearegrandviewsofEstesParkandothersectionsofLumpyRidge.

Pastthemidwaymarkthepathentersamoreheavilyforestedareaaspen,pine,spruce,andfirshadetheway.Soontheforestopens,againrevealingspectacularviewsofEstesParkandtheridge.Thenthetrailascendsmorequicklybyshort,steepswitchbacks,andinafewminutesdeliversyoutolakeside.

Thatfirstviewisquitespecial.Thelakeissetinanamphitheaterawallofstone,perhaps50feethigh,beginsonyourrightandhalfcirclesthelakealongitseastshore.Partsofthewallaresosteepthattechnicalrockclimbersareoftenseenhoningtheirskillshere.Ontheleft(west),rockledgesandagood-sizedsandybeachprovideperfectseatsforthespectators.

True,thelakeissmallandshallow.True,itspopularityguaranteesthatyouwillhavecompany.Andyes,aherdofhorsesmaystopforlunchwhenyoudo.Butthisisahighlyscenichike,theviewsarespectacular,thesettingofthelakeisbeautiful,andtherockformationsareasunusualasanythatcanbeseenintheparkallwithin

acoupleofmilesoftrailhead.

YpsilonLake

Trailhead(4): LawnLakeTrailhead

Distanceoneway: 4.5mileAltitudegain: 2,180feetElevationatdestination: 10,540feet

YpsilonLaketakesitsnamefromthemountainthattowersaboveitsnorthwestshoretoanelevationof13,514feet.Itsprecipitoussoutheastface,scarredbyasnow-packed,Y-shapedcouloir,makesitoneofthemostdistinctiveandformidablepeaksinthepark.Inadditiontothelakeandthespectacularviewsofitsnamesakemountain,thistrailoffersseveralotherrewards:avisittoChipmunkLake,atarnoflessersizebutnolesserbeauty;well-composedscenesofLongsPeak;pineforestscarpetedwithgrouseberry,juniper,andbearberry;anddramaticviewsofthecanyongougedoutbyrampagingwaterthatbrokeloosefromLawnLakeDamin1982andfloweddowntheRoaringRiver.

Trailheadparkinghasroomforafewdozencars,theexactnumberdependingontheconsideratenessofthosewhoarrivedearlier.Serving

YpsilonLakewithMountChiquitaasabackdrop

ChipmunkLakereflectingYpsilonMountain

boththeLawnLakeandtheYpsilonLaketrails,thelotispopularenoughtofillby9a.m.onsummerweekends.

Thehikebeginswithaseriesofswitchbacks.Afterabout0.5milesthetrailpassesalongtherimofthecanyoncutbythefloodwaterofLawnLake.It'shardtoimaginethatthemodeststreamseenmeanderingatthebottomcouldbechargedtosuchdestructiveforceastotearopenthisvastrentinthehillside,andcarryawaytrees,boulders,andanenormoustonnageofearththatrestricteditsformercourse.ThevastalluvialfanofmudandsandthatwassweptdownthehillsideintoHorseshoeParkisstillmostlybarren.

Nearingthe1.3-milemark,theLawnLakeTrailbranchesofftotheright,andthentheYpsilonLakeTrailcrossesRoaringRiverbywayofalogbridge.ThefirstviewofYpsilonMountainappearsinthebackgroundtothenorthwest.

Thetrailagaintakesuptheascentinearnestthroughsteepswitchbackssecuredbylogsteps.Lodgepolepinedominatestheforestasthetrailclimbsandmoderates,climbsandmoderates,overthebetterpartof2.5miles.About4milesfromtrailheadthepathbeginstodescendandtheforestopenstorevealaspectacularviewof

YpsilonMountain,itsextraordinarysoutheastfaceandthefullextentofitsY-shapedgashstraightaheadandfullyvisible.

SoonyouareatthesouthwestshoreofChipmunkLake.AfewstepstothemarshysoutheastsidegarnersagreatviewofYpsilonMountain

anditslake-reflectedimage.Thisisasmalllake,amere0.1acreinsurfacearea,butitmakesabigimpressionwithpaletanbouldersdelineatingitsnorthwestshore,mossandsedgecarpetingthesoutheastshore,andthemagnificentmountainbackdrop.It'sdifficulttoleave,butYpsilonLakeisstill0.5milesaway.

Thetrailnowdescendssteeplyfromawell-definedlateralmoraine,climbsabitontheotherside,andthendescendssteeplytoYpsilonLake,passingthecascadesofastreamemanatingfromChiquitaLake.YoumeetYpsilonLakewithdramaticsuddennessatitswesternedge,andthedramaincreasesasyoucontinuealongitssouthernboundary.

TheprecipitousriseofYpsilonMountainfromthenorthwestshoreofthelakeprovidesaspectacularbackdrop,butcropstheviewofthesoutheastface.Thetrailskirtsthelakealongthree-quartersofitsshore,andmanyshortspursleadtothewater'sedgeprovidingprivateplacesforlunchandasnooze.

YpsilonMountainfromthetrail

DeerMountain

Trailhead(5): DearRidgeJunctionTrailheadnearthejunctionofColorado34andColorado36

Distanceoneway:

3miles

Altitudegain: 1,080feetElevationatdestination:

10,010feet

Thispleasanthikeleadsfromflowerymeadowsandopenstandsofpine,upthroughconifer-woodedswitchbackstothetopofDeerMountain.Alongthewayandonthesummit,thereareexcellentviewsofYpsilonMountain,LongsPeak,andEstesPark.

Thetrailisgentlyascendingforthefirstmile,andthissectionofferssomeofthebestscenery.Nearthebeginningofthehike,lookingtothenorthwest,youseeYpsilonMountainframedbyponderosapine.Thesnow-filled,Y-shapedgashonthemountainssoutheastfacemakesiteasytorecognize.Abitfartheron,theforestgiveswaytograss-coveredslopeswithafewisolatedpinesofimpressivesizehereandthere.

LookingsouthtoLongsPeakfromthesummitofDeerMountain

AspenandLongsPeakseenfromthetrail

Wildflowers,inabundanceandvariety,minglewiththegrasses.

Beforewalkingamile,youreachagroveofaspenextendingdownhilltothesouth.BeaverMeadowsfillsthemiddleofthescene,whileLongsPeak,9milesfarthersouth,formsthebackdrop.It'sasuperbview.

Pastthispoint,thetrailmakesasharpswitchback,andbeginstoclimbmoresteeplyupthesouthernflankofDeerMountainandintoaconiferousforest.Formostofthesecondmile,pinesandfirshadethetrail,butthereareseveralturnoutswhichprovideexcellentviewsofthevalleysbelowandthesurroundingmountains.

Withlessthanamiletogo,thegrademoderatestolevel,andthentoagentledownhillslope.Thenthetrailbecomessandyandindistinct.Theforestismoreopenhere,exposingsomelocalhighpoints,butnotthesummitofDeerMountain.

Apyramidalcairnofmonumentalsizemarksasplittingofthepath0.1milesfromthesummit.Thebranchtofollowmakesaright-anglerightandheadssteeplyupwardoverrockandscree,someofwhichisnottoofirmlyanchored.

AtthetopofDeerMountainancientlimberpinesandpicturesquesnagstestifytotheharshnessofmountainweatherevenatamere10,000feet.YoucanusethetreestoframeexcellentviewsofEstesParktotheeast,LongsPeaktothesouth,andYpsilonMountaintothenorthwest.Thereareallsortsofflat-toppedboulderstoserveasbenchesortableswhenyou'rereadyforlunch.

OldUteTrail-TrailRidgetoBeaverMeadows

Trailhead(6):

OldUteTrailheadonTrailRidgeRd.,2.0mileswestofRainbowCurve,0.8mileseastofForestCanyonOverlook

Distanceoneway:

6.1miles(suggestedonewayrouteusing2cars)

Altitudeloss:

3,000feet

Elevationatstart:

11,250feet

TheOldUteTrailwaspartofanIndianroutethatoncelinkedvillagesacrosstheContinentalDivide.Inits3,000-footelevationdrop,thesectionofthetraildescribedherepassesthroughthreemountainzones:alpine,subalpine,andmontane.Althoughseveraloftheotherhikesdothesame,noneisshorter,andnoneoffersagreatervarietyofplantenvironments.

Steppingontothetundraat11,250feet,islikesettingfootonsomestrangeplanetavast,alien,anddesolatelandscape.You'reGulliverinthegardensofLilliput,wanderingamongwindwiseminiatureplantslessthananklehigh.Whattheylackinsizetheymakeupforinfloriferousnesssaxifrage,silene,phlox,andsedum,completelymantlethemselvesinbloomthroughmostofJulyandAugust.

Thefirst2milesoftrailaregentlyhilly,providingexcellentviewsacrossForestCanyontotheContinentalDivide.LongsPeakstandssentineltothesouth.Whereverthetrailoffersasweepingview,Longswillbeaprominentfeatureonthehorizon.Afteraclimbof200feet,thedescentbegins,atfirstgradually.Here,potentillastealstheshowthe2-footshrubscoveringextensivepatchesoftundraingoldenflowers.Heretoo,areexcellentviewstothesouthintotheFernLakearea.

Thenthetrailbeginstodescendmoresteeply,anditwillgetsteeperstill.Sincetheupperthirdisleveltogentlyascending,andthelowerthirdis

Sincetheupperthirdisleveltogentlyascending,andthelowerthirdisgentlyrollingtolevel,mostofthealtitudelossaccurswhiledecendingthemiddlethirdnottoobadgoingdownhill,butgoingupthispartoftheOldUteTrailisbestlefttoyoungUtes.

ThestartofthesteepdescentpresentsasuperbviewoftheroutedowntoUpperBeaverMeadows;theenormouslateralmorainethat

Nearthestartofthehike,LongsPeakinthebackground

shouldersthetrailovermuchofitslasthalfisadominantfeature.Afewhundredstepsleadstoachest-highforestofsubalpinefirKrummholtz,sculptedandshearedbythewindsandsnow.Furtheralongthetrailthetreesaretaller,andnearthe2.5-milemarkisanopenstandoflimberpines.Thetreesarelarge,old,andtwistedsomescarredbyfire,othersflayedofbarktotheirsilverycoreovermostoftheirtrunk.

Continuingitssteepdescentthroughdenseforestofpineandfir,thepathoccasionallyopensontoameadowawashwithwildflowers.Thesearenotthetight,frugalknotsofthetundra,butaluxurianceoffull-sizedplantsscarletpaintbrush,purplepenstemon,whiteachillea,andmanyothersinmixturesthatwouldembarrassanecktiebutherejustperfect.

Furtheron,thegradebeginstomoderate.Inplaceswherethespruceandfirarespacedmorewidely,juniperspreadsovertheground,creatingtheillusionofawell-manicuredgarden.AsigngivesthedistanceanddirectiontotheUpperBeaverMeadowsTrailhead,2.8

milesahead.Againtheplantcommunitychanges:violetmonardaandgoldengallardiabestourcultivatedones;alliumanderigeron,blackeyedsusanandgoldenbannervieforattention;buttheexquisitemariposalilytakescenterstage.

TherushingwaterofWindyGulchCreekisheardlongbeforeitisseen;butthenitcomeswithinafewfeetofthetrailbeforecascadingoutofsighttothevalleybelow.Thetrailcontinuesoverrockledgesthatprovideawonderfulviewofthevalleybelow.Thenthepathlevelsoutthroughdenseforestoflodgepolepineinterspersedwithsuperbstandsofaspen.Ofcourse,therearemoreflowersthedisplaycontinuingrightintotheparkingarea.

Nearthelowertrailheadyouwillnoticealargeareaenclosedbyafence.Thepurposeofthefenceistoexcludedeerandelk.Thisispartofanexperimenttostudythekindofplantgrowththatoccursinanareaprotectedfromforaging.

Thereareseveralvariationsonthishike.Thosewithasurplusofenergywillinsistondoingitfromthebottomup,oruseonlyonecarandtravelthetrailbothdirections.Butotherscansimplyhikeabitofthetoporabitofthebottom,andreturntothesametrailhead.Itwilldo,butit'ssecondbesttowalkingtheentiretrailandexperiencingtherichvarietyoflandscapesithastooffer.

Bushcinquefoilinfullbloomonthealpinetundra

Chapin,Chiquita,andYpsilonMountains

Trailhead(7): ChapinCreekTrailhead

Distanceoneway:

1.5miles(Mt.Chapin),2.4miles(Mt.Chiquita),and3.5miles(Mt.Ypsilon)

Altitudegain: 1,814feet;2,429feet;and2,874feetrespectivelyElevationatdestination:

12,454feet;13,069feet;and13,514feetrespectively

Thisisatourofthreemountainpeakstwoofwhichtopoutatover13,000feet.Muchofthetrailisonalpinetundraabovetimberline,andtherearemarvelousviewsoftheChapinCreekValleyandtheMummyRangealongtheway.Butthemostspectacularviewsofallarethoseseenfromthethreesummits.FromeachyoucanseetheprecipitouseastfaceofatleastoneoftheothersandHorseshoeParkandEstesParkfarbelowtothesoutheast.

ToreachthetrailheadfromtheBeaverMeadowsentrance,drivenorthwestonU.S.36toDeerRidgeJunction.Continuenorthwest(bearingright),nowonU.S.34headedforEndovalley.PastEndovalley,thepavedroadends,andyoucontinueontheone-way-onlyFallRiverRoadrutty,dusty,andrepletewithhairpincurvesforits8.5milestretchtotheAlpineVisitorCenter.The15mphspeedlimitisnonetooconservative.Thetrailheadisreachedabout6.5milesfromEndovalley,andwillbeonyourright.Thereareparkingspacesontheleftinasmallparkingareaandalongtheshoulderoftheroad.

Forthefirstquarterofamile,thetrailclimbssteeplytoaridge,andthenturnssharplyright(east).Thepathleadsthroughadenseforestofspruceandfir.Afteraboutamile,thetreesareshorter,andtheforestbeginstoopen.Onyourleft(tothenorth)isaviewdownintotheChapinCreekValley,wheretheriverisabandofsilvertwistingthroughagenerousborderofbrightgreengrassstrikinglyframedby

theconifer-coveredmountains.

Soonthetrailclimbsabovetimberline,wheretheviewistrulyexpansive.AsyouproceedacrossthewesternflankofMountChapin,the

YpsilonMountainfromTrailRidgeRoad

trailcrossesfingersoftalus,andhereiswhereyoudiscovertheworthofhikingbootswithgoodsupport,goodankleprotection,andsturdysoles.

Thetrailbecomesindistinct,thenimaginary.AnascentofafewhundredfeettakesyoutothesummitofMountChapinwithitsremarkableviewsofChiquitaandthevalleystothesoutheast.Some,preferringashorterhike,makethistheirdestination,andthenturnback.

ThosegoingontotheotherpeakscrossthesaddlebetweenMountsChapinandChiquita.Here,forthefirsttime,youseetheeastfaceofbothofthesemountains,theprecipitousdropinsharpcontrasttothemoderatewesternslopes.

ImprovisearoutetothesummitofChiquita.Muchofthewalkwillbeacrosstalus,notthemostcomfortableofwalkingsurfaces.Situatedatthetopisasmall,rockamphitheater.Partlytheworkofpeople,butmostlythatofnature,itfaceseastwardaperfectplacetoenjoyasnackandthedramaticviewsofthecompanionmountains.

Thenit'sontoYpsilonMountain,descendingafewhundredfeettotheYpsilon-ChiquitasaddlebeforeclimbingthesouthernpeakofYpsilon.ThispeakoffersthebestviewofYpsilon'sdramaticeastfacewith

itssnow-filledcouloirs,butthenorthernpeak,ashortwalkacrossashallowsaddle,givesthebestviewofSpectacleLakes.

OnecancontinuemountainhoppingalongtheMummyRangetoFairchildMountainandHaguesPeak,boththirteeners.However,thisextendsthehikewaybeyondthelimitsofthetrailscoveredhere,andtheLawnLakeTrailprovidesamoreconvenientroute.Besides,theviewfromYpsilonMountaindeservesalongandleisurelystay,andthereissceneryenoughalongthewaytosatisfythemostdiscriminatinghiker.

YpsilonMountain'snortheastpeakseenfromitssoutheastpeak

NORTHWESTTrailsNearPoudreLake25Shorttundrahikes26OldUteTrail-TrailRidgeRoadtoPoudreLake27TheCrater28LuluCityandLittleYellowstoneCanyon29TimberLake

SincethisregionoftheparkincludesasectionoftheContinentalDivide,itisnotsurprisingthatmanyofthebestalpinetundrahikesarefoundhere.TheothertrailsincludedherelietothewestoftheDivide,wheremoistureismoreabundant.Thesetrailsfeaturegentlemarshes,lushforests,superbriverscenery,andtranquillakes.

AllthesetrailsarereachedfromthenorthwestsectionofTrailRidgeRoad.Duringwinter,whenthenorthernsectionoftheroadisclosed,onlytheTimberLakeandColoradoRivertrailscanbereached,andthenonlybytravelingnorthonTrailRidgeRoadfromGrandLake.

ShortTundraHikes

Trailhead(1):

TundraTrailTrailheadonTrailRidgeRoad;(2):TrailRidgeRoadoppositeAlpineVisitorCenter;(3):AlpineVisitorCenter

Distance: AfewstepstoafewmilescustomizetosuitAltitudegain:

Nominaltonegative

Elevationattrailhead:

About11,500feet

Thealpinetundraisanotherworldperchedonthepenthouseoftheplanetwherelivingisanythingbutposhandeasy.It'salandofragingwinds,fearsomeelectricalstorms,andanine-monthwinterofbittercoldandheavysnow.Yetit'shometocreatureslikethemarmotandpika,andallsortsofminiatureplantswhosedelicateformandexquisiteblossomsareinsharpcontrasttotheharshnessofthesetting.Flowerythroughoutthesummer,theshowisatitsheightfrommid-Julytomid-August,withanencoreofmoresubtlebeautybeginninginearlySeptemberwhenbrightblossomsgivewaytorichtintsofamberandrusset.

AndtheviewsAh!theviews!Spectacularinalmosteverydirection.

Formuchofthesummerthealpinetundraisusuallysun-soakedinthemorningandovercastintheafternoon.Thecloudsoftenbringrainnotgentleshowers,butthunderstormsthatdemandattentionandrespect.Evenunderclearskiesthetemperaturecanbe30ocoolerthaninEstesPark,andwindislikelytobeabriskandbadgeringpresencethroughoutthedayannoyingtosome,butforothersaddingtothesenseofplaceandexcitement.

AllthewalksdescribedherebeginatTrailRidgeRoadtoppingoutat

over12,000feet,it'sthehighestcontinuousroadintheU.S.,andmostofitsnorthernstretchreachesabovetimberline.

Perhapsthemostpopularisthe0.3-milehikethatstartsattheparkinglotservingtheAlpineVisitorCenter.Theclimbisshortbutsteep,andatthetoparetheexpectedgrandviewsandanalpinegardenfeaturingallsortsofhummockyplantssetagainstwhite,quartz-lacedbouldersandscree.AsigninformsyouthattheelevationishigherthanthesummitofMountHood.

Mushroom-shapedrockonTundraTrail

NearlyaspopularistheTundraTrail,whichbeginsjustwestofRockCutonTrailRidgeRoad.Theparkingareaisfairlygenerous,butstilllikelytobeatornearcapacityonaclementweekendafternoonduringsummer.Acommodiousouthouseatthetrailheadmaybemomentarilyaswelcomeasightasthespectacularscenery.Thehalf-milehikeclimbsgraduallytoseveralextraordinaryrockoutcroppings,onefeaturingacarbuncleofstonesome15feethigh,bizarrebutbeautiful,incongruouslyrisingoutofthetundralikeamushroom.Abitfurtheron,definingtheendofthewalkformostpeople,isafortresslikestoneoutcroppingastrikingviewinitselfandprovidingstrikingviewsforthosewhoscrambletoitstop.

TwohikesincorporatingportionsoftheOldUteTrailaredescribedonpages102and112,whereatwo-carshuttleissuggestedinordertoavoidretracingtheroute.Butyoucanenjoybothofthesetrailsbywalkingthetundraportionandreturningtotheuppertrailhead,andneitherislikelytobeascrowdedastheothertwodescribedhere.

Althoughnoneofthefourtundrahikesmentionedinthissectionareofdaylength,onecancustomizeaday-longtripbydoingseveralinsuccessionit'satreat.Takecaretostayonthepaths;inspiteofthe

ruggednessoftheterrainandtheharshnessoftheclimate,thisisanextremelyfragileecosystem,onethatiseasytowoundandslowtoheal.

OldUteTrail-TrailRidgetoPoudreLake

Trailhead(2): TrailRidgeRoadacrossfromtheAlpineVisitorCenter

Distanceoneway:

4.2miles

Altitudeloss: 1,050feetElevationatstart:

11,800feet

ThisisanothersectionoftheOldUteTrail(seep.102)whichcanbetraversedinonedirectionbyarrangingatwo-carshuttle.Asexpectedofatrailthatstartsinthealpinezoneandendswellintothesubalpine,thishikepassesthrougharichvarietyoflandscapes,fromtheausterebeautyofthetundra,tolushforestsoffir,tothehanginggardensnearPoudreLake.Notrailsurpassesthisoneinitsabundanceanddiversityofwildflowers.

Alpinetundranearthestartofthehike

HangingLake

TheuppertrailheadisonTrailRidgeRoaddirectlyacrossfromtheeastentranceoftheparkinglotthatservestheAlpineVisitorCenter.Thetrailheadisnotmarkedatthiswriting,butiseasilylocated.

Foraboutathirdofitslengththepathleadsthroughtreelesstundracarpetedwithminiaturealpineplants:saxifrage,phlox,silene,sedum,mountaindryad,alpinesunflower,aswellasglobeflowerandelephantellawhichoneusuallyassociateswithwetterterrainandloweraltitudes.ThroughoutthispartofthehiketherearesuperbviewsofthemountainsdefiningtheContinentalDivide.

Ataboutthe1-milemarkisaseriesofpools,hanginglakesiftheywerelarger,perchedabovevalleysattheveryrimofthedropoff.Sedgesandgrassesgrowabundantlyontheshorescreatingminimarshesthatseemoutofplaceinthealpinetundra.

Sogradualisthedescentthattheintroductionoftreesintothelandscapeisalmostimperceptible.First,ground-huggingcoloniesof

subalpinefirappear;thenbolder,isolatedstandsstuddedwithpennanttrees;thenlargerstandswithshortbutproperlycone-shapedsentinelsinthecenter;andfinally,subalpineforestwithfull-sizedspruceandfir.

RockspiresandhanginggardensnearPoudreLake

PoudreLake

Thewildflowersreflectthechangeinaltitude,shade,andmoisturethealpineminiaturesgivewaytobluechimingbell,whitephlox-likebittercress,penstemon,beesbalm,indianpaintbrush,ladytressesorchid,andmanymore.

Abouttwo-thirdsofamilefromthelake,arockyoutcroppresentsagardenofsilver-leavedandgolden-floweredsenecio,purple-plumedsilkyphacelius,penstemon,andanaphalisbutwait,thebestisupahead.Anotherhalfmileleadstoastartlingoutcropofrockpinnacles.Saxafrage,heuchera,sedum,andmanyotheralpineminiaturesspreadoutontheprominencesornestleinthecracksanexquisitehanginggardenmadeevenmorestrikingbythepatchesoforangelichenthatdecoratetherock.AlthoughonlyafewhundredyardsfromPoudreLake,it'sanaptrewardforamuchlongerhike.

PoudreLakeisborderedbyTrailRidgeRoadandisservedbyafairlylargeparkinglot,providingconvenientaccesstothelake.Manyvisitors,havingonlyonecarattheirdisposal,choosetohikethelowerportionofthetrailstartingfromthelake.Otherscometostrollalong

thesoutheastshorewhereit'seasytofindapleasantspottostopforlunch.

TheCrater

Trailhead(4): CraterTrailheadatMilnerPassnearPoudreLake

Distanceoneway: 1mileAltitudegain: 730feetElevationatdestination:

11,480feet

ThetrailtoTheCraterisonlyamilelong,butsteepenoughtomakeitmorethanacasualstroll.Thehikebeginsindenseforestandendsabovetimberlineattherimofanenormousconcavitylikethecraterofavolcano.Ifyou'reluckyyouwillseebighornsheep,butnoluckisneededtoenjoythegrandview.Consideringthepopularityofthehike,theparkingareaattrailheadisskimpy,andyoumighthavetoparkafewhundredfeetawayatPoudreLakeandwalkbackalongtheroadifsowatchoutforcarswhosedriversarewatchingoutforscenery.

TheCraterandthe1,000-footriseofSpecimenMountainaboveitsrimisabighornsheepsanctuary,offlimitstohikers.It'sagoodguessthatmanytakethistrailprimarilyinhopesofseeingsheep.Butseldomisalargecongregationspotted,andthunderingherdsareoutofthequestion.Expecttoseeasmallgrouphereandthere,andonsomedaysnoneatall.

Butit'snotonlythesheepthatdistinguishthishike.Thetrailpassesthroughbeautifulsubalpineforestofspruce,thegroundcoveredwithextensivepatchesofgrouseberrythatturncopperyredinautumn.Theforestendsquitesuddenly,openingupanexpansiveviewofthePoudreRiverValley.Theriverisstrikinglyset-offbyaborderofbrightgreenvegetationastrikingcontrasttothedarkgreenconifersthatcoverthesurroundinghills.Thetrailcontinuesitssteepclimb,

andsoonreachestherimoftheCrater.

Thesceneisalsoastrikingstudyincontrastsdarkconiferscovertheeast-facingslopes,whilethewest-facingslopesshowonlythelighttancolorofbarerock.AcrossTheCratertothewest,theNeverSummerRangedominatesthehorizon.RisingaboveTheCratertothenorthisSpecimenMountain,awebofgametrailscrisscrossingitsflanksfromitssummitdowntothebottomofTheCrater.Someofthesetrailsareusedbythebighorns;allareofflimitstohikerssinceSpecimenMountainisdesignatedasa''NationalResearchArea"thatcanonlybevisitedbyresearcherswithaspecialpermit.

LookingdownintoTheCrater

SpecimenMountainisnamedfortheabundanceofinterestingrockspecimenstobefoundonitsslopesfound,buthopefullyleftinplace,sincethisisaparkforallofus.Oncethoughttobeanactivevolcanothatblewitstop,geologistsnowbelievethattheashdepositsonSpecimen,aswellasotherfeaturesofvolcanicorigin,liketheLavaCliffsafewmileseast,camefromvolcanicactivitythatoccurredoutsidethepark.Thecraterismerelytheresultoferosion.Whilethelatesttheoryrobsthesiteofsomeofitsromanticaura,itdoesnothingtodiminishitsscenicimpact.

LuluCityandLittleYellowstoneCanyon

Trailhead(5): ColoradoRiverTrailhead,northwestcornerofTrailRidgeRoad

Distanceoneway: 3.7miles(LuluCity);4.6miles(LittleYellowstoneCanyon)

Altitudegain: 350feet(LuluCity);990feet(LittleYellowstoneCanyon)

9,360feet(LuluCity);10,000feet(LittleYellowstoneCanyon)

TheColoradoRiverTrailisyourroutetoLuluCity,onceaminingtownbuiltinthehopeofstrikingitrichingoldandsilver.AfterLuluCity,thetrailcontinuesforanadditional0.7milestotheLittleYellowstoneCanyon.Alongtheway,yougettoenjoyexcellentriverscenery,lushmarshlands,andpleasantforests.Allofwhichmakesthisavariedandinterestingtrailineveryseasonoftheyear.

FormersiteofLuluCity

TheColoradoRiverasseennearthebeginningofthetrail

Someofthemostimpressivesceneryoccurswithinthefirsthalfmile,wherethepathandtheriverruncloselyparalleltoeachother.Elder,alder,willows,andgrassessoftensectionsofthebank;barepebblescobbleothersections;spruceencroachupontheshore,leanprecariouslyoutoverthewaterandthenbendbackwardasthoughhavingthoughtbetterofit.TheriveristheColoradomostimpressiveduringthelatespringrunoff,butalwaysascenichighpoint.

Thetrailfollowstheriverupstreamabit,andthen,toosoon,divergesfromitandleadsthroughopenforestofmixedtrees.Oneextensivestandofaspenisbackedbyacliff,andthegray-blackrockmakesaperfectfoilforthewhitetrunks.Furtheronisamarshwithbillowingclumpsofgrassandmanysmallpondsinterconnectedbyasystemofrivulets.Beyondthebrightgreenofthemarsharehillscoveredwithsomberblue-greenconifers;beyondthehills,thesnow-capped,graymountains.

Soontheworkingsofmancomeintoevidenceinthemountainsidetotherightofthetrail.ThetailingoftheShiplerMinestilllittertheslopeafterahundredyears;tonsofcrackedrockturnedoutofthemountaininsearchofouncesofsilver.It'sahalfmilefurtheralong

thetrailtotheShiplercabins,twobrokendownone-roomersslowlybeingreclaimedbytheforest.JoeShiplerbuiltthefirstcabinin1876.Afterthirty-eightyears,rheumaticandnotmuchricher,heabandonedthemineandleftthevalley.

TailingsfromtheShiplerMine

Afewstepspastthesecabinsandafewstepsintothewoodsattheleftofthetrailisanotherwoodencabin,thisoneofmoremodernorigin,andstillinuseanouthouse,unremarkableexceptforitsconvenience.

AfterleavingtheShiplercabins,thetrailleadsthroughdenserforest,againconifersandaspen,butnowtheconiferspredominate.Thetrailbecomesmorehilly,moregravelly,buttheinclinesaremoderateandshort.Soonthepathleadsoutontoaflatgrassyexpanse,setparklikeamongwell-forestedhillsandthemountains.Youhavearrived.ThisisthesiteofLuluCity.Theminingtownthatspranguplikeamushroomin1879,collapsedsomefiveyearslaternotenoughpaydirttomakeitpay.However,attheheightofitsgoldfever,itboastedahotel,postoffice,biweeklystagecoach,andevenabrothelaRockyMountainwintercanbelongandcold.

Acoupleofcollapsedcabinsfronttheentrancetothenearlyvanishedtown;theirnewoccupantsaresprucetrees,outgrowingtheirwelcomeandabouttoassimilatetheirhosts.Aquarterofamileuptrail,neartheendofthetownsite,acoppiceofspruceisskirtedbytheremainsofanothercabin,nowreducedtoafour-log-hightreeplanter.Asidefromthethreebroken-downcabins,othersignsofLuluCityarehardto

findinthisgentlefieldtheforesthasabsorbedalmostallofit.However,itiseasytofindthemoderncabintotheeastofthetrailit'sanotherouthouse.

IwonderifShiplerandthecitizensofLuluCityappreciatedthewondrousbeautyaroundthem;orweretheytooentrancedwiththequestforpreciousmetaltogiveadamn.Maybetheplatinumhoarfrost,theice-silveredstreams,theaspen'sautumngoldonlyservedtoremindthemoftheimpendingwinterandthepastseason'sstingyissueofrealgoldandsilver.Whatwasitliketoendurethefiercesummerstorms,thehail,andlightning?Howdidtheycopewiththewintersnowsdrivenbyraging80mphwinds,andthebone-crackingchillof30°below.Thereseemstobenolimittotheprivationandsufferingpeoplewillinglyendureforthesakeofaccumulatingenoughwealthtoavoidsuchprivationandsuffering.Wecometohikeinthemostpleasantweatherandleavebyday'send,butsomeoftheinhabitantsofLulustayedtheyeararound.There'snothinglikethepromiseofwealthtoforgestoicresolve.

IfyouwishtohikefartherthanLuluCity,youcancontinuenorthtoLittleYellowstoneCanyon,anadditional0.9mileswithanelevationgainof640feet.Therearetwodifferentroutes.Onecontinuesthroughthemeadowandisabitlessstrenuous;theotherbranchesofftotherightjustbeforeyouenterLuluCityandfollowstheLaPoudreRiverTrail.After0.6miles,thetwotrailsmeetandgentlydescendtotheColoradoRiver,atthispointonlyamany-channeledhintofitslaterforceandvolume.Rusticbridgesprovideacrossing,andthenyoubeginthemodestascentalongthenarrowgravellypathonthecanyonwall.

Withinaquarter-milethecanyonwallsbecomemoresolidandblocky.LookingdownintothecanyonmaycallupimagesofthebigYellowstoneCanyoninWyomingbutherethescaleismuchreduced.

Atrailforallseasons

ThesceneryalongtheColoradoRiverTrailchangesdramatically

throughouttheyear.Eachseasonscriptsitsownscenario,andeachscenarioiswondrouslydifferentfromtheothers.

Springofferstheriveratitsfullestandcontraststhenewlymintedleavesofthedeciduoustreesagainstslategrayrockorthesombergray-greenoftheconifersstillincandleor,morevibrantly,againsttheunbeatableblueofaColoradosky.Earlywildflowerssparkthefields,andthemeadowgrassesshowtheflounceandturgoroffreshnewgrowth.Inthebackground,steelbluemountainsarestillwell-mantledwithsnow,justthebackdropforthebrightfreshcolorsofthemeadowsandmarshes.Andtheair...Perfect...Perfectintemperature...Nottoodry,nottoodamp...Andfilledwiththericharomaofnewgrowthandnewlyshedpineneedlesstirredupbythunderstormsthatregularlypunctuatelateafternoonsandeveningsduringthisseason.

Summercalmsthelandscape;annealsthesoftspringrushofgrowthtohardwood;overpaintsthelimegreenaspenleavesinlowkeybutsubstantialblue-gray-greens,andwhitensthebark;stiffensthecandlesoftheconifersandbrushesthemout;plumesthemanygrasseswithairyinflorescences;bringsthewildflowershowtoapeak;butleavesenoughsnowonthemountainstoremindyouthatthereareotherseasons.

Autumnisthemostflamboyanttimeoftheyear.Thelandscapeisreworkedwithafullpalette:theentirespectrumofgreensfrombluetoyellowshowintheconifers;aspensparkleyellow,gold,orevenorange;grouseberry,ablueberryrelative,carpetstheforestfloorwithcopperyscarlet;hereandtheresumacsofseveralspeciesflareanincandescentrubyredonthehillsides.Thegrassesaremorereserved,turningsubtleshadesofyellow,gold,bronze,andtan.Theponds,streams,andtheColoradoRiverreflecttheblueoftheskyandmixthiscoloramongalltheotherstossedontothewaterfromthebanks.

Asautumnflamesitselfout,theaspendeciduate,andscattertheirgoldalongthepathsandintothewater.Allisunadornedstructure,spareandelegant.Thenthesnowscome,andthelandscapetakesitsmostdramaticturn,achangeintoitsboldestform,simplifiedintosteelycontrasts.Whiteskeletalaspenaresetagainstgray-blackrocks;riversandpoolsappearblackagainstsnow-coveredbanks,asdotheconifersundertheirwhitetopcoats;andeventhemountainsseemblackwherefreeofsnow.Onlytheskygivescolortothisblackandwhitescene,andthiscoloristhedeepest,purestblueoftheseason,unlessastormisbrewing.Butduringagentlesnowfall,theharshblack-and-whitecontrastisgone,andinitsplaceisanew,impressionisticlandscape,withsnow-dustedtreesandrocks,andthemistyhillsandbarelydiscerniblemountainsinthebackground.

Andthewintervisitorgarnersanotherbonussolitudefewotherswillbe

theretodisturbthetranquility.Snowshoescanbeused,butthistrailhassofewsteepsections,andthesearesoshort,thateventhenearnoviceshouldhavelittletroublewithit.It'smostlyaneasyskateup,andanalmostcontinuous,gentleschussdown.

ThewinterroutetoLuluCityandLittleYellowstoneCanyonisthesameasthesummerroutetheColoradoRiverTrail.However,theparkinglotservingthattrailheadisnotplowed,soleaveyourcarattheTimberLakeparkinglot,andskiwestacrosstheroad.Asignboardfartherwestatthebottomofahillmarksthebeginningofthetrail.

SinceTrailRidgeRoadisclosedduringwinter,onehastocomebywayoftheGrandLakeentrance,atwo-hourdrivefromBoulderorDenver.However,thedrivethroughClearCreekCanyonisascenictreatinitself,andthewinterskitourtoLuluCityisunbeatable.

TimberLake

Trailhead(6): TimberLakeTrailheadonTrailRidgeRoad9.6milesnorthoftheGrandLakeentrance

Distanceoneway:

4.8miles

Altitudegain: 2,060feetElevationatdestination:

11,060feet

MostoftheTimberLakeTrailpassesthroughdenseforest,sotherearefewsweepingviews.Ontheotherhand,theshademakesforpleasanthiking,andthetrailboastsallsortsofwaterfeaturesandanexceptionallyrichvarietyofwoodlandwildflowers.Locatedawayfromthemorecrowdedsectionsofthepark,thishikeoffersmoretranquilityandsolitudethanmanyothers.Thelakeitselfisafineprize,beautifullysetoffbythemountainsrisingbehinditssouthwestshore.

Thebeginningofthetrailisgracedbyalargestandofaspenmaturetrees,straight-trunkedandtalloneofthefinestgrovesinthepark.

TimberLake

Winteraspen

It'satreatineveryseason,butseeitinthefallwhenit'sinfullincandescentshimmer,orinthewinterwhenit'sawhite-on-whitepictureofbaretrunksandsnow.

SoonthepathcrossesPhantomCreek;then,afterathirdofamileoffairlylevelterrain,leadstoabridgespanningagood-sizedcascadechurnedupbyBeaverCreek.Thenthetrailbeginstoclimbmoresteeplythroughforestoflodgepolepine,spruce,andfir.YouwillhearthecarsonTrailRidgeRoad,butsoonthenoisegiveswaytothesoundofwaterasyoutravelparallelto,butnotinsightof,TimberCreek.

Nearthe2-milemark,youfinallymeetTimberCreekafewfeettothesideofthetrail,itsbanksgarlandedwithwildflowersbluechimingbellisjuxtaposedwithwhite,phlox-likebrookcress.Hereandthere,poisedonbouldersmidstream,oneseesmagentafloweringclumpsofthefabulousParryprimrose.Thetrailsoonleavesthecreek,thenreturnsandleavesafewmoretimes.

When1.7milesfromthelakeasigngivesthedirectionandthe

distancethepathturnssharplyleft,andclimbsbyshortswitchbacks.Thisisthesteepestportionofthetrail,butitlastsonlyaquarterofa

mile.Anotherhalf-mileorsoleadstoarockoutcroppingheavilylacedwithquartzthewhiteofthebouldersastrikingfoilforanextensivestandofscarletindianpaintbrush.

SoontheforestopensuptorevealameadowskirtingthesouthernflankofJackstrawMountain.Asignpointsthewaytoastrategicallyplacedouthouse.Othersignspointtothiscampgroundorthat,andthereisaturnofftotheright(south)toLongMeadows.Proceednortheastacrossthemeadowtotheclumpysubalpineforestatthefarend.

Afterafewmoresteepswitchbacks,thetrailarrivesatTimberLakeneartheoriginofTimberCreek.Heretheshoreismarshy,butrepletewithglobeflower,marshmarigold,andsuperbclumpsoftherareboglaurelclothedinthree-quarterinchcotton-candy-pinkhexagonalbloomsforamonthinearlysummer.

Therearedryperchestobehadonthenorthwestandsoutheastshores.Thefirstisonbouldersatthewater'sedge.Thesecond,onarisefacingtheContinentalDivide,givesthebestviewthelakesetagainstabackdropofmountains.Thereareseveralotherscenicviewpoints,andmanyplaceswhereyoucanexploretheshore.

Quartz-lacedboulderswithinahalf-mileofthelake

SOUTHWESTTrailsNearGrandLake30ColumbineBay31ShadowMountain32AdamsFalls33Onahu-Tonahutu-GreenMountainTrailLoop

SomeofColorado'slargestlakesborderthesouthwestcornerofthepark,andtheColoradoRiverpassesthroughthisregionfromnorthtosouth,gainingvolumealongtheway.AddedtothesesourcesofmoistureisthatwhichiswrungfromthecloudsastheycomeinfromthewestandpressupagainsttheContinentalDivide,makingthisthemostverdantsectionofthepark.ThereareexcellenttrailsalonglakeshoresandtheColoradoRiver,aswellasmountainhikesandahiketoapleasantwaterfall.Andsincethisregionis20milesfartherfromDenverthantheeastsideofthepark,itdrawsfewervisitors,andsooffersmoresolitude.

TheareacanbereachedfromthesouthbytakingU.S.40toGranby,andfromtheretakingU.S.34toGrandLake.TrailRidgeRoadisopenfrommidspringtomidautumn,andprovidesanalternateroutetoGrandLakefromtheeastsideofthepark.

ShadowMountainLaketoColumbineBay

Trailhead(1): EastShoreTrailheadviaU.S.34inGrandLake

Distanceoneway: 1.5milesandbeyondifyouchooseAltitudegain: nominalElevationatdestination:

8,250feet

ThiseasyandpleasanttrailfromShadowMountaintoColumbineBaypassesthroughavarietyofriversideenvironmentsrepletewithgentlescenesofmountain-backedmeadows,luxuriantmarshes,anddenselodgepoleforest.Atthedestinationisaserenelybeautifulbay.It'sahikeforallseasonsandaspecialtreatforthosewithapenchantforriverscenery.

Thetrailheadisreachedbydrivingeastonthe1.2-,milesideroadoffofU.S.34nearthecenterofGrandLake'smotelrow.ParkattheGreenRidge

ShadowMountainLakeattwilight

ShadowMountainLake

CampgroundonthewesternsideofShadowMountainDam,andwalkacrossthedamtotheparkboundaryandtrailheadonitseasternside.

Onsummerweekendsthedamandtheshoresofitsrun-offarelikelytobecrowdedbypicnickersandfisherman,whilethelakeitselfhostsaregattaofsmallsailboats,rowboats,andpowerboats.Nevertheless,thelakeismagnificent,andthetree-studdedrollinghillsthatformitsshoresandthemountainrangesbehindthemprovideitwithamagnificentsetting.Andafterafewminutesonthetrail,solitudeisyours.

Ashortwalkthroughpineforestleadstoamarshyplainthickwithgrasses,borderedcloselyononesidebytheColoradoRiverandontheotherbyhills,strangelydryandcoveredwithyuccasandghostly-graysages.Thentheplainextendsitsreachfartotheeastwhereit'sbackedbymountains.Inspringandearlysummer,thispartofthetrailisboggyenoughtowarrantitswood-plankedwalkway,successfullydesignedtobeasunobtrusiveaspossible.BetweenthelastfrostsofspringandbeforethefirstfrostsofautumnthisplainandmanyotherpartsofthistrailarealivewithmosquitossoitmaybewisetoDEETifyyourselfonceortwiceduringthehike.

Thepathleavesthemarshanddividesaboutahalf-milefromthetrailheadonebranchheadingwesttowardtheriver,theothersoutheast.Theywillmeetagaininabout0.3miles,sotakeonebranchgoingandtheotheronthereturn.Ineithercasethepathsoonentersdrierterrainandleadsthroughforestsandthenbacktotheriver.About1.5

Marshgrassesinautumn

milesfromtrailhead,theviewopensoutontoagrassyfieldandColumbineBay.

Thebayisborderedbyconiferousforestsoffir,spruceandpinethestandextendingupthesurroundingmountains.Ahazyfieldofgrasscarpetstheeastshore,andaccentuatestheserenebeautyofthescene.Pastthispoint,ColumbineBayjoinsGrandBay,andfarthersouthGrandBayentersLakeGranby.TheEastShoreTrailcontinuesformorethan11milestotheArapahoBayRangerStation,withthelast5milesofthetrailoutsideofthepark'sboundary.

Hikingthistrailinautumnbringsadditionalpleasures.Afewhardfrostssolvethemosquitoproblem,andwithfewervisitorsthereismoresolitude.Themarshyareasaremostlydry,andthegrassesareinfull-plumedglorywithcolornearertogoldthantotan,givinganimpressionisticsoftnesstotheriversidescenery,butahard-edgedcontrasttothemountains.

ToCalypsoBayWinter

Whetheronsnowshoesorskis,awinterexcursiontoCalypsoBayisapleasantexperience.Ofcourse,themarshgrassesandforest

groundcoversarenowmaskedbysnow,butinreturnthereisastarklybeautifulstudyinblackandwhite.Thetreesareblackinthelightofasunnowtoo

SnowshoeingalongtheColoradoRiver(photobySusanMalitz)

weaktofireupanycolor;eventheriverflowsblack,itsblacknessaccentuatedbyrazoredslashesofwhitereflectionsandshardsofice.

Atonepoint,aboutonemilefromthetrailhead,thetrailleadsoutoftheforesttoasweepingviewoftheColoradoRiver,thirtypacesorsooffthepath.Thenthetrailascends,asitcutsitsnarrowwayacrossarathersteephillside,steepenoughtoposeanavalanchethreat.

Onecanavoidthissectionofthetrailbygoingdowntotheriverbeforetheclimbbegins.Closetotheriver'sedgethereisanalternateroute,usuallywellmarkedbyskitravel,thatparallelstheofficialpath.Mostwillfindthealternaterouteeasier,safer,andmorescenic.However,thisroutesoonrunsintoapromontoryofrockthatjutsouttowardtheriver,endingexactlyatitsedge.Steppingstonesinshallowwaterprovideawayarounditbuttakecare,thestonesmaybeslippery,andunstable.

Pastthisobstacle,thetreelessshorewidenstoasmuchas300feetfromrivertoforest.Somemayfindthispartofthehikeabitunvarying,butitdoeshaveanausterebeautythatevokesaprofoundsenseofsolitude.Thescenedoesn'tchangeformostofamile;but

whenitdoes,assumingthatyouhavetakentheshorelineroute,youfindthewayimpededbyajumbleofbouldersattheheadofColumbineBayalikelyplacetoturnback.

ThetrailfromShadowMountainLaketoColumbineBayisahikeforallseasons,andaspecialtreatforthosewithafondnessforriveryscenery.

ShadowMountain

Trailhead(1):

EastShoreTrailhead,parkingatShadowMountainDam3milessouthoftheGrandLakeentrancestation

Distance: 4.8milesAltitudegain:

1,530feet

9,920feet

ThehiketothetopofShadowMountainisvariedandhighlyscenic,anditslocationatthesouthwestcorneroftheParkenhancesitsappealforthoseseekingsolitude.Thetrailoffersextraordinarylakescenery,unusualrockformations,comfortablewalkingintheshadeofconifers,andsuperbviewsfromthefirelookoutstationnearthesummit.

Therearetwoapproachestothetrailthatleadsupthemountain.OneisviathetownofGrandLake:goeastoffU.S.34,turnrightatthepostoffice,crossthebridgespanningthecanaljoiningGrandLakeandShadowMountainLaketoroad'send,park,andfollowthetrailalong

GrandLakefromthefirelookout

Rockformationsnearthemidwaymark

thewestshoreofShadowMountainLakeabout1.5milestowheretheShadowMountainTrailbranchesofftotheright.TheotherroutebeginsatthesoutherntipofShadowMountainDam:driveeastoffU.S.34totheGreenRidgeCampground,park,walkacrossthespillway,walknorthforabout1.5milesalongthewestshoreofShadowMountainLake,andturnrightontotheShadowMountainTrail.Thesecondrouteisabitshorterandmaybeabitmorescenic,butit'satoss-up.

EitherstartingpointbeginsawalkalongtheeasternshoreofShadowMountainLakeslow-goingsincethereisaphotoopportunityevery

fewsteps.Duringthesummer,thetrailismostlydry;wherethereisabitofmarshiness,featheryhorsetailsmakeacarpetofbrightestgreen.

Afterabout1.5milesfromeitherstartingpoint,asignmarksthesidetrailtothefirelookout3.3milesaway.Thepathturnssharplytothesoutheast,andbeginstosnakeitswayupthemountainthroughforestofpine.Theclimbismostlygradualandthepathmostlyuncluttered,butafewsectionsaresteeperandrockier,particularlynearthebeginningandtheend.

Midwayalongtheascentisanextraordinaryboulderoutcroppingthedarkgraygranitefoldedandflutedintosoftformsthatmocktherock.Inthecrevicestuftsofgreenishwhitefloweredheucheraandemeraldgreenmossfurtherheightentheillusionofplushsoftness.Thisshowisrepeatedagainfurtheralongthetrail,withafinal,lessdramaticencoreneartheend.

Aboutamilefromthelookouttower,attheelbowofaswitchback,asmallstreamemergesfromthehillside.Itsflow,partlydirectedalongahollowlog,splashesontoabedofmossstuddedwithclumpsofgolden-floweredmimulus.Fromhereit'sonlyacrookedmiletothelookout;still,theforestisdenseenoughtopermitonlytantalizing,sliveredviewsofthelakes.

Evenatthebaseofthefirelookoutthebouldersandtreesblocktheview.Butclimbafewflightsofstairstotheupperdeckandthereyouhaveitall:GrandLakeandShadowMountainLakespread1,500feetbelowyou,surroundedbymountains.

Thosepreferringawalkwithlesselevationgaincanoptfora3-mileshoretourfromthetownofGrandLaketoShadowMountainDam(orthereverse)byarrangingatwo-carshuttle,ormakeitatwo-way6-milestroll,orwalkpartwayandthenbackfromeitherstartingpointnoneoftheseoptionswilldisappointyou.

AdamsFalls

Trailhead(2): EastInletTrailheadinGrandLake

8,470feet

ThetrailtoAdamsFallsisthemostpopularwalkintheGrandLakeregionoftheparkashortandeasystrolltoapleasantwaterfallandsomesuperbriverscenery.

OnU.S.34thereisasmallkioskthatservesasatouristinformationcenter.Immediatelytothesouthofthekiosk,asideroadleavesthehighwayandheadseasttothecenterofGrandLakewhereitjoinsaroad(left)toAdamsFalls.ParkingattheEastInlettrailheadisample,andspaceisalmostguaranteed,eventhoughthewalktothefallsisquitepopular.

Thegentletrailwindsitswayeastthroughapleasantconiferousforest.Borderingthetrailinseveralplacesaresomeextraordinaryoutcroppingsofgray-blackrock.Deeplypleatedandpillowyinform,theycontradictthestufftheyaremadeof.

Thepathleadstoarockledgeoverlook,sheartothefallsbelow.Thefallsarebeautiful,butofmodestsizeandmostofthedramaticportionishiddenaway.However,theuppercascadeisinfullviewasitcareensthroughashallowcanyondowntothebrinkofthefalls.

Scramblingdowntotheriverbankbringsyouquiteclosetothelowerfalls,butheretoothesurroundingrockblocksaclearview.Theriverquicklyspreadsout,andduringthedrierpartoftheseasoncanbeeasilyforded,providingthatcareistakennottoslipontheslick

algae-coatedrocks.Onceontheotherside,thereisanunobstructedviewofthelowerfalls,butthereisnoneedtocrossoverinordertoenjoythesuperbriverscenery.

Therivercanbefolloweddownstreamforhalfamileorso.Insomeplacespineandfirencroachupontheshore;inothers,theshoreisskirtedwithgrassesofseveralspeciessomegracefullyarching,othersemphaticallyvertical.Thescenemaybeatitsbestinautumnwhenfrostburnishesthegrassestosilkytanandbrassyyellow,andfurnishesthemwithanassortmentofdistinctiveseedheads.Autumnalsocurbsthenumberofvisitors,andthecoolertemperatureisperfectforhiking.

ThehikedescribedhereistheinitialsectionoftheEastInletTrailwhichcontinuespastthewaterfall.Thesceneryispleasant,andaboutahalf-milefromthefallsthetrailpassescloseenoughtoEastInlettoprovideexcellentriverscenery.ThefirstmajorfeatureisLonePineLake,5.5milesfromthetrailhead.

AdamsFalls

Lichenandmoss-coveredcliffbesideAdamsFalls

Onahu-Tonahutu-GreenMountainTrail

Trailhead(3,4):OnahuTrailheadorGreenMountainTrailhead3.3milesnorthoftheGrandLakeentrance

Distance(completeloop):

6.5miles

Altitudegain: 820feet(from8,850feetto9,670feet,andback)

TheOnahu,Tonahutu,andGreenMountaintrailsconvenientlyintersecttoformacircleroutethroughavarietyofpleasantterrain,includingseveralsitesofhistoricalinterest.Thehikeiseasy,althoughthereareafewsteepsectionsofmoderatelyshortduration.

ThehikecanstartateithertheGreenMountainTrailheadortheOnahuCreekTrailhead.Thosepreferingtocompleteahikewithadownhillstretch,shouldstartattheformer.AwillingchauffeurcanleavetherestofthegroupattheOnahuCreekTrailhead,anddropthecaroffattheGreenMountainTrailheadasavingofa0.5milesandafewdozenfeetofelevationgainforwhichthedriverisrewardedwithapleasantstrollthroughmixedforestofpine,spruce,fir,andsomefinestandsofaspen,althoughthesightandsoundofhighwaytrafficwillbeanunwelcomedcompanionthroughoutthisshortstretch.

StartingattheOnahuCreekTrailhead,aninitialhillyascentofaboutamilethroughforestofaspenandpine,thenpine,spruceandfir,bringsyoutoabridgethatcrossesOnahuCreek.Althoughnotaragingtorrent,thewhitewaterhasactionenoughtocounterpointthemoss-coveredrocksandabundantflowersonthebanks.At2milesfromtrailhead,asignannouncesthatOnahuBridge,yournextdestination,ishalfamilefurtheron.Thepathleadsawayfromthewaterthroughlodgepoleforest,andthencomesbacktothecreektocrossit.HereitjoinstheTimberCreekTrailwhichyoufollowtotheright(south).

Afewhundredfeetbringsyoutoajunctionoftrailsandaconfusionofsignscontinueinthesamedirection,headingsouthtowardBigMeadows.Nowthetrailascendsmoresteeply,crossingagray-blackjumbleofgranitebouldersthisisanedgemoraine,detritusscoopedupanddepositedatthesidesofaglacier.Thenit'sbacktotheforest.

Lodgepolepine

BigMeadows

OneofSamStone'scabins

Thistimeit'spurelodgepolepineinsuchanextraordinarydensepackthatvisibilityiscuttoacoupleofdozenfeet.

Continuingsouth,1.3milesfromitsintersectionwiththeOnahuTrail,theTimberCreekTrailismetbytheTonahutuTrailenteringfromtheeast,andasignannouncesthatBearLakeis13.5milesawayabitmorethantwicethedistanceofthishike.Ignoringthetemptation,continuesouthtoBigMeadowsonwhatisnowtheTonahutuTrail.Andbigitisaseaofwildflowersandgrassesrimmedbyhills.Yougettoviewitfromtheshadeoftheforest,andit'sapictureworthtaking.

Aboutmidwayalongthemeadowsstandtwotrailsidecabins,formerpropertyofSamStone.Hebuiltthemaround1900,onetohousehimself,theotherhislivestock.Heearnedhislivelihoodbysellinghayharvestedfromthemeadowathisdoorstep.Butthenhemetawomanwhoconvincedhimthatgoldwastobefoundinwhatisnowthesouthernpartofthepark.SoSamabandonedhishomesteadandwentinpursuitoftheladyandthepreciousmetalandneverwasheard

fromagain.

AtthesouthendofthemeadowtheGreenMountainTrailcrossestheTonahutuTrail.YouturnrightontotheGreenMountainTrailandfollowitwestbacktothetrailheadforaneasy1.8milesthroughapleasantevergreenforest.

Bibliography

GEOLOGY

Richmond,GeraldM.,RaisingtheRoofoftheRockies,EstesPark,CO:RockyMountainNatureAssociation,1974.

FLORAANDFAUNA

Armstrong,DavidM.,RockyMountainMammals,EstesPark,CO:RockyMountainNatureAssociation,1975.

Craighead,JohnJ.,Craighead,FrankC.,andDavis,RayJ.,RockyMountainWildflowers,Boston,MA:HoughtonMifflinCompany,1963.

Dannen,Donna,andDannen,Kent,RockyMountainWildflowers,EstesPark,CO:TundraPublications,1987.

Torbit,StephanC.,LargeMammalsoftheCentralRockies,MonteVista,CO:BennetCreekPublications,1987.

Udvardi,MiklosD.,AudubonSocietyFieldGuidetoNorthAmericanBirds,WesternRegion,NewYork,NY:Knopf,1977.

Watts,Tom,RockyMountainTreeFinder,Berkeley,CA:NatureGuide,1972.

Weber,WilliamA.,RockyMountainFlora,5thed.,Boulder,CO:ColoradoAssociatedUniversityPress,1976.

GENERAL

Mills,EnosA.,TheSpelloftheRockies,Lincoln,NE:UniversityofNebraskaPress,1987.

Trimble,Stephan,LongsPeak,EstesPark,CO:RockyMountainNatureAssociation,1984.

Willard,BeatriceElizabethandFoster,SusanQuimby,ARoadsideGuidetoRockyMountainNationalPark,Boulder,CO:JohnsonBooks,1990.

HIKINGANDCAMPING

Dannen,Donna,andDannen,Kent,RockyMountainNationalParkHikingTrails,6thed.,Chester,CT:GlobePiquotPress,1985.

Dannen,Donna,andDannen,Kent,ShortHikesinRockyMountainNationalPark,EstesPark,CO:TundraPublications,1986.

ErikNilsson,RockyMountainNationalParkTrailGuide,WorldPublication,1978.

HISTORY

Buchholtz,CurtW.,RockyMountainNationalPark:aHistory,BoulderCO:ColoradoAssociatedUniversityPress,1983.

IndexThisindexislimitedtoproperplacenames.Eachentrywhichisadestinationofahikefeaturedinthetextisinboldtype.Thenumbersinparentheseserankthecomparativedifficultyofthehikeandweredeterminedbyequating1,000feetofelevationgainwithawalkoftwomiles,andthenaddingthistothenumberofmilesrequiredfortheroundtrip.Forexample,MillsLakeis2.5milesfromtheGlacierGorgeJunctionTrailheadandthehikerequiresaclimbof700feet.Theratingunderthissytemis:

(0.002xelevationgain)+distanceroundtrip=rating(0.002x700)+5.0=6.4

Asaruleofthumb,weregardahikeaseasyiftheratingislessthan6;moderateifbetween6and10;anddifficultifgreaterthan10.MythankstoDickHolleyforsuggestingthisformula;itmeshesnicelywithintuitiveestimatesoftheeffortrequired.

AdamsFalls(0.8),135-137

AlbertaFalls(1.5),48-50

AlpineBrook,34,38

AlpineVisitorsCenter,110-113

AndrewsGlacier,59,61

ArapahoBayRangerStation,130

ArchRocks,90

BattleMountainCampground,37

BearLake(0.0),67-71

BeaverCreek,124

BeaverMeadows,13

BierstadtLake(3.9),82-83

BigMeadows,138-139

BigThompsonRiver,86,88,90

BlackLake(12.2),56-57

BluebirdLake,29-30

BoulderField,34,37-39

ButterflyBurnof1929,43

CalypsoBay,130

CalypsoCascades(5.0),21-28

CathedralWall,59

Chapin,Mount(6.6),105-107

ChasmLake(13.1),34-42

ChiefsHeadPeak,20,40,53

ChipmunkLake,97-98

Chiquita,Mount(9.6),105-107

ColoradoRiverTrail,118-122

ColumbineBay(3.0),128,131

ColumbineFalls,34

ConyCreek,25,27

CopelandFalls(0.6),25-28

CopelandLake,23

CopelandMountain,20,22,28,30

Crater(3.5),116-117

CubLake(5.7),86-89

DeerMountain(8.2),100-101

Diamond,The,36,39

DreamLake(3.1),68-71

EastInlet,135

EmeraldLake(4.8),68-71,79

EstesCone(9.8),31-33

EugeniaMine,31

FairchildMountain,107

FernCreek,75,77,90

FernFalls(6.7),90-93

FernLake(10.4),90-93

FinchLake(11.9),20-22

FlattopMountain,6,68-71,80-81,83

ForestCanyon,102

GemLake(6.2),94-96

GlacierBasin,31

GlacierBrook,52

GlacierCreek,52,55-57

GlacierGorge,39,47-50

GlacierGorgeJunction,47,58

GlacierKnobs,58

GlassLake(LakeofGlass)(11.5),61-65

GrandLake,127-128,132,134

GranitePass,38

GreenMountainTrail,138-140

GreenRidgeCampground,133

HaguesPeak,107

HaiyahaLake(3.6),72-74

HallettPeak(18.5),6,68-71,78-81

HangingLake,113

HorseshoePark,98,105

IcyBrook,58,61

InnBrook,31

JackstrawMountain,125

JewelLake,53,56

KeyboardoftheWinds,52,80

Keyhole,34,37,39-40

LadyWashington,Mount,45

LakeGranby,81

LakeofGlass(11.5),61-65

LawnLakeDam,97

LilyLake,33

LittleMatterhorn,75,91,93

LittleYellowstoneCanyon(11.6),118-122

Loch,The,(7.3),54,58-62

LochVale,52,65

LonePineLake,136

LongMeadows,125

LongsPeak(25.7),31,34,37-44,70

LongsPeakRangerStation,31,34,44

LuluCity(8.1),118-122

LumpyRidge,85,94

MacgregorRanch,94

MahanaPeak,30

McHenrysPeak,40,53,56,79

Meeker,Mount,20,31,42,45

MillsGlacier,36

MillsLake(6.4),51-55

MoraineParkCampground,86

MountLadyWashington,45

MountMeeker,20,31,42,45

NorthSt.VrainCreek,25,27

NotchtopMountain,75,77,91,93

NymphLake(1.5),68-71

OdessaLake(18.8),75-77

OldUteTrailtoBeaverMeadows(6.1one-waydownhill),102-104

OldUteTrailtoPoudreLake(4.2one-waydownhill),112-115

Onahu-Tonahutu-GreenMountainTrailloop(8.1),138-140

OuzelCreek,29-30

OuzelFalls(7.3),23-28

OuzelFireof1978,26,28-29

OuzelLake(12.8),28-30

PagodaMountain,20,40

PeacockPool,34

PhantomCreek,124

Pool,The,75,86,90

PoudreLake,112-115

PowellPeak,59,65,79

RibbonFalls,56

RoaringFork,34

RoaringRiver,97-98

ShadowMountain(12.7),132-134

ShadowMountainLake,81,128-131

ShiplerMine,119

SkyPond(12.5),61-65

SpecimenMountain,116-117

SpruceCreek,90

StonesPeak,87

StormPeak,39,42,56

TanimaPeak,30

TaylorGlacier,65

TaylorPeak,59,65,79

ThatchtopMountain,53,64

ThunderLake,29

TimberCreek,124-125

TimberLake(13.7),123-125

TimberlineFalls(10.8),61-65

TonahutuTrail,138-140

TrailRidgeRoad,109-113,122

TundraHikes(varies)110-111

TundraTrail,13,111

TwinSistersMountain(10.1),43-45

TyndallCreek,69-71

TyndallGlacier,78,80-81,83

WildBasin,20,28,42

WildBasinRangerStation,20,23,26

WindyGulchCreek,104

YpsilonLake(13.4),97-99

YpsilonMountain(12.7),98-99,105-107

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