rockon! 2008 1 rockon! structure build rockon! 2008
Post on 05-Jan-2016
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1 231 461 691 921 1151 1381 1611 1841 2071 2301 2531 2761 2991 3221 3451 3681 3911 4141 4371 4601 4831
Accel_X_Low
Accel_Y_Low
Accel_Z_Low
Accel_X_High
Accel_Y_High
Accel_Z_High
TEMP
Pressure
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1 1796 3591 5386 7181 8976 10771 12566 14361 16156 17951 19746 21541 23336 25131 26926 28721 30516
Accel_X_Low
Accel_Y_Low
Accel_Z_Low
Accel_X_High
Accel_Y_High
Accel_Z_High
TEMP
Pressure
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Step 11: Staking AVR Wires
-Stake the soldering location of the AVR wires on the AVR PCB as shown.
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Structures Overview:
- Open your structures kit and verify its contents.
- ESD protection should be utilized during the entire building process!
-Make sure anyone handling the hardware is protected from ESD damage.
- If any issues arise raise your hand for assistance.
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Structural Kit Overview: Nuts and Bolts
Purple M3.0x10 (2) M2.0 nuts (2)
Light Green M2.5x10 (3)
M2.5 nuts( 3)
Black M3.0x25 (4)
Red M3.0x35 (4)
Light Blue M3.0x10 (4)
Red M2.0x10 (2)
M3.0 nuts (16)
Light Green M3.0x10 (2)
*Bolts and nut are 1:1 scale
Nylon spacers (24)
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Structural Kit Overview: Brackets
Z Accelerometer bracket (1)
‘L’ Battery bracket (1)
Battery bracket (1)
G-Switch bracket (1)
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Structural Kit Overview: Adding Electrical Tape
Z Accelerometer bracket
Leaving the holes free, add electrical tape to the Z accelerometer on the three-hole piece.
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Structural Kit Overview: Parts from other kits
G-switch (1)
Green LED (1)
Blue RBF Wire (several feet)
Red LED with connector (1)
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Structural Kit Overview: Parts from other kits
G-switch (1)
Green LED (1)
Blue RBF Wire (several feet)
Red LED with connector (1)
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Structural Kit Overview: Parts from other kits
Z Accelerometer Board (1)
Geiger Board (1)
AVR Board (1)
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Structural Kit Overview: Tools
Screwdriver Set Small Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
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Z Acc (green)
Structural Kit: Mounting Plate
AVR (black)
Geiger Board (red)
G-Switch (purple)
Batteries (blue)
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Step 1: AVR Mounting
- Find the M3.0x25 Black bolts for the AVR.
-Mount the AVR in the orientation shown on the following slide using nylon spacers.
- The nylon spacers will be above and below the board as shown.
- AVR holes are colored black on the mounting plate.
- Hand tighten with an M3.0 nut followed by a final ½ turn using the wrench and screwdriver.
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Step 1: AVR Mounting
x4 for all holes on the AVR
***Note the orientation of the AVR***
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Z Acc
Step 1: AVR Mounting [Before]
AVR
Geiger Board
G-SwitchBatteries
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Step 1: AVR Mounting [After close-up]
Bottom-Up View
Side View
Top Down View
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Step 2: Z Accelerometer Mounting
- Find the M3.0x10 green bolts for the Z accelerometer bracket.
-Mount the Z accelerometer bracket as shown.
-Make sure the electrical tape is oriented on the correct side of the Z accelerometer bracket.
- Z accelerometer holes are colored green on the mounting plate.
- Hand tighten with an M3.0 nut followed by a final ½ turn using the wrench and screwdriver.
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Step 2: Z Accelerometer Mounting [after close-up]
Top View
Bottom View
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Step 3: Z Accelerometer Mounting
- Find the M2.5x10 Light Green bolts for the Z accelerometer.
-Mount the Z accelerometer as shown.
- Hand tighten with an M2.5 nut followed by a final ½ turn using the pliers and screwdriver.
- *** Use three nylon washers between the bracket and PCB of the accelerometer. ***
- Hand tighten with an M3.0 nut followed by a final ½ turn using the wrench and screwdriver.
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Step 3: Z Accelerometer Mounting [after close-up]
Front View
Behind View
Top Down View (note the washers used for spacing)
Caution! These are the leads in question.
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Step 4: Z Accelerometer Connection
- Connect the four pin header to the ‘Z main’ location on the AVR as shown.
-Make sure you connect Red to “+” and Black to “-”.
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Structures Overview:
- Open your structures kit and verify its contents.
- ESD protection should be utilized during the entire building process!
-Make sure anyone handling the hardware is protected from ESD damage.
- If any issues arise raise your hand for assistance.
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Step 5: Geiger Counter Mounting
- Using hot glue, stake down the red wire leading off the Geiger counter to the Geiger PCB near the bend in the wire.
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Step 5: Geiger Counter Mounting
-Make sure the red Geiger wire is staked down before you mount the Geiger counter.
- Using four nylon spacers and the Red M3.0x35 bolts mount the Geiger Board to the plate as shown.
- Hand tighten with an M3.0 nut followed by a final ½ turn using the wrench and screwdriver.
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Step 5: Geiger Counter Mounting
Side ViewBottom View
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Step 6: Geiger Counter Connection
- Connect the three pin header on the Geiger counter to the breadboard on the AVR as shown. Connect black to the black wire, red to the red wire as depicted.
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Step 6: G Switch Bracket Mounting
- Find the G Switch bracket and mount to the plate as shown.
- The mounting bolts are two M3.0x10 colored purple.
- The holes to be mounted are closest the bend in the ‘L’ bracket.
- Finger tighten with an M3.0 nut followed by a final ½ turn using the wrench and screwdriver.
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Step 6: G Switch Bracket Mounting [after close-up]
Top ViewBottom View
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Step 7: G Switch Mounting
- Find the G Switch and mount to the G Switch bracket.
- The mounting bolts are two M2.0x10 colored red.
- Finger tighten the bolts with M2.0 nuts plus an additional ½ turn using the pliers and screwdriver.
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Step 7: G Switch Mounting [After Close-up]
Front View
Back View
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Step 7: G Switch Mounting
- Connect the G Switch header to the AVR board location labeled ‘G-switch’.
- Since there is no polarity to this shorting mechanism, the orientation of the wires does not matter.
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Step 8: Battery Bracket Mounting
- Acquire Flight Batteries in your structures kit.
- Find both battery brackets and mount to the plate as shown.
-Mount all brackets using m 3.0x10 bolts colored light blue.
- Hand tighten with an M3.0 nut followed by a final ½ turn using the wrench.
-Mount the ‘L’ bracket first pushing the batteries flush with it on the plate.
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Step 8: Battery Bracket Mounting [After]
- Orient the battery connectors to lead the extending wires to the left.
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Step 8: Battery Bracket Mounting [After close-up]
Top View
*Note flushness of batteries with ‘L’ bracket
Bottom View
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Step 8: Battery Connection
- Connect the header from the batteries to the ‘Power’ location on the PCB.
- The header should be right next to the ‘RDY’ and ‘ON’ locations within the PCB.
- **Note the Red lead from the battery should connect to the ‘+’ indication on the PCB.
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Step 1: Mounting the AVR
- Slide some nylon threading underneath the AVR socket and tie down to the socket as shown.
- The nylon should be tightly secured to the chip. Have a partner (who is also ESD protected) help you tie a tight knot.
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Step 1: Mounting the AVR
- Slide some nylon threading underneath the AVR socket and tie down to the socket as shown.
- The nylon should be tightly secured to the chip. Have a partner (who is also ESD protected) help you tie a tight knot.
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Step 2: Bundling Wires
- Each set of wires on the board should be bundled two or three times.
- Use the nylon threading to bundle the wires together as shown.
- Use a square knot to tie the nylon threading and trim the excess leaving an inch remaining.
- USE CAUTION!! Don’t snip your wiring while doing this!!!
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Step 3: Mounting Battery wires
- Orient the battery wiring as shown and stake to the AVR bolt indicated.
-Wrap nylon thread around the bolt as shown and tie around the bundle of battery wires.
- The wires are now secure to the plate.
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Step 3: Mounting Battery wires [plate overview]
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Step 4: Mounting G-switch wires
- Orient the G-switch wiring for mounting to the AVR bolt indicated.
-Wrap nylon thread around the gold battery bracket as shown and tie around the bundle of G-switch wires.
-Wrap nylon thread around the bolt as shown and tie around the bundle of G-switch wires.
- The wires are now secure to the plate.
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Step 5: Mounting Geiger wires
- Orient the Geiger wiring for mounting to the Geiger bolt indicated.
-Wrap nylon thread around the Geiger bolt as shown and tie around the bundle of Geiger wires.
- The wires are now secure to the plate.
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Step 5: Mounting Geiger wires [Geiger PCB overview]
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Step 5: Mounting Geiger wires [Geiger PCB overview]
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Step 6: LED Mounting [General]
-Make sure the Green LED is attached to the ‘ON’ header with the correct polarized orientation.
- Additionally, make sure the connector for the Red LED is attached to the ‘RDY’ header in the correct orientation.
- Extend all three sets of wires underneath the plate using the notch nearest the AVR as shown.
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Step 6: LED Mounting [General]
- Use copious amounts of hot glue without being overly excessive.
- Keep the tip of the hot glue gun from touching hardware, only molten glue should touch the hardware.
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Step 6: LED Mounting [General]
- There are two orientations of LED mounting for the structures build.
- If your plate serial number is odd (ending in 01, 03, 05) orient the LEDs in the first orientation given. This is opposite the Geiger Counter.
- If your plate serial number is even (ending in 02, 04) orient the LEDs in the second orientation given. This is underneath the Geiger Counter.
Example of an even plate serial number
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Step 6: LED Mounting [General]
- Extend the wiring underneath the plate and match the red ‘x’ mounting location as shown.
-Mount the blue RBF wiring and stake near the middle of the appropriate notch on your plate.
-Make sure the lip of the red LED connector is flush with the edge of the plate.
- The front of the green LED should be even with the edge of the notch when mounting.
- Consult the following pictures of each orientation with any questions.
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Step 6: LED Mounting: Odd Serial Number
- The red LED connector goes on top of the red x as shown. Orient the lip down and flush with the edge of the plate.
- Also note the positive red wire is oriented inwards for this orientation.
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Step 6: LED Mounting: Odd Serial Number
- Have a partner hold the LED and RBF wiring in place.
- Now hot glue the wiring in place in the same manner the photo shows.
- Be careful not to burn your partner’s hand!
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Step 6: LED Mounting [plate overview]
Bottom View
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Step 6: LED Mounting: Even Serial Number
- The red LED connector goes on top of the red x as shown. Orient the lip down and flush with the edge of the plate.
- Also note the positive red wire is oriented outwards
- Also notice the green LED is flush with the notch edge, but under the plate.
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Step 6: LED Mounting: Second Orientation
- Have a partner hold the LED and RBF wiring as shown.
- Now hot glue the wiring in place in the same manner the photo shows.
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Step 7: Staking bottom nuts
-Add hot glue to the nuts on the bottom of the plate.
-Stake all nuts on the bottom of the plate using hot glue as shown in the following two pictures.
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Step 8: Staking the AVR
-Add hot glue across the AVR as shown for extra structural security.
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Step 9: Staking connectors
-Ensure all connectors are attached in the correct orientation.
-Add generous amounts of hot glue to pot the connectors to the AVR PCB.
-Now the wiring is mounted solidly to the AVR PCB.
Example Connector
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Step 10: Staking Geiger Wires
-Stake the soldering location of the Geiger wires on the Geiger PCB as shown.
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Structures Overview:
- Open your structures kit and verify its contents.
- ESD protection should be utilized during the entire building process!
-Make sure anyone handling the hardware is protected from ESD damage.
- If any issues arise raise your hand for assistance.
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Step 11: Staking AVR Wires
-Stake the soldering location of the AVR wires on the AVR PCB as shown.
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Step 12: Staking Accelerometer Nuts
-Add hot glue to the Accelerometer nuts as shown.
-You may also add hot glue to the wire leads of the Z-axis accelerometers if you desire.
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Step 13: Staking Battery Bracket
-Add hot glue to the areas shown on the battery bracket and connectors.
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Step 13: Staking G-switch nuts
-Add hot glue to the nuts on the G-switch as shown.
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Step 14: Staking G-switch weights
Before Staking
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Step 14: Staking G-switch weights
After Staking [back view] After Staking [front view]
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Bottom of an odd plate
Staking should occur at all of these places!!
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Top of an odd plate
-Staking should occur at all of these places!!!
-Set the completed Plate on the ESD mat and wait for further instructions.
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Structures Overview:
- Open your structures kit and verify its contents.
- ESD protection should be utilized during the entire building process!
-Make sure anyone handling the hardware is protected from ESD damage.
- If any issues arise raise your hand for assistance.
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Overview:
- Now that your payload has been built, tested, and mounted to a structural plate, it is time to assemble a stack of plates and integrate them into the RockSat can configuration.
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Structural Kit Overview: Parts from other kits
G-switch (1)
Green LED (1)
Blue RBF Wire (several feet)
Red LED with connector (1)
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Step 6: LED Mounting: Odd Serial Number
- The red LED connector goes on top of the red x as shown. Orient the lip down and flush with the edge of the plate.
- Also note the positive red wire is oriented inwards for this orientation.
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Final Product 1:
Above: 5 plate stacked
configuration.
Below: Stacked configuration in can. (Minus lid)
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Final Product 2:
SolidWorks model and actual picture of structural RockSat can.
5 Plate Stack Stand-offs attached to Top Lid.
Barrel Section attached to
Top Lid (8 Places)
Assembled can with payload ~20 pounds
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Group Formation:
To Begin:
- Examine your plate for a serial number. The leading number indicates which can your team flies in, and the last two digits indicate plate number.
Can Number Plate Number
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Group Formation 2:
- Find the other four (4) groups that have the same can number and sit together. (5 Plates total)
- The assistants will come around and pass out the hardware that each team will need to build the RockSat can structure.
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Required Hardware 1:
- One (1) Top Bulkhead - One (1) Bottom Bulkhead
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Required Hardware 2:
- One (1) 9/64 hex key
- Two 5/16 open-end wrenches
- Twenty (20) long male-female (MF) stand-offs
Hex Key
Wrenches
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Required Hardware 3:
- Five (5) male-female (MF) short (cut-off) stand-offs
- Five (5) female-female (FF) stand-offs
- Sixteen (16) 3/8” bolts
- Five (5) 5/8” bolts
5/8”3/8”
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Required Hardware 4:
- Ten (10) locking washers - Five (5) 1/2’’
bolts
1/2”
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Update Note:
- Some AVR boards were too close to a support stand-off during fit checks.
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Update Note:
- To help alleviate the issue, a small chunk was nipped from the edge of the board.
- This should resolve the issue.
- If at any time you are unsure if you may be doing damage to your board while installing stand-offs, please raise your hand.
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Bottom Plate “01” Step 1:
- Take one (1) short stand-off and place the male end through one of the 5 holes on the plate with the serial number ending in “01.”
- The threaded end should protrude on the top side of the plate.
5
21
3
4
2
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Bottom Plate “01” Step 2:
- Screw on one (1) FF stand-off to the short MF stand-off you added.
- Important: Tighten by hand until you cannot turn it anymore.
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Bottom Plate “01” Step 3:
- Use your wrenches to tighten the stand-off an extra quarter turn. (90° or π/2 radians)
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Bottom Plate “01” Step 4:
- Repeat the previous steps to add the other four (4) MF and FF stand-offs to plate “01” as shown.
- Plate “01” should look similar to the pictures to the left.
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Plate “02” Step 1:
- Take one (1) long stand-off and place the male end through one of the 5 holes on the plate with the serial number ending in “02.”
- The threaded end should protrude on the bottom side of the plate to thread into the FF stand-off on plate “01.”
5
21
3
4
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Clocking:
Clocking:
- Clocking is a technique where each plate is rotated 180° relative to the previous plate.
- Clocking is used here to better balance the RockSat cans due to the CG not being exactly at the geometric center of the plate.
AVR 01
AVR 03
AVR 05
AVR 02
AVR 04
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Plate “02” Step 2:
Clocked 180°
- Clock or rotate plate “02” 180° such that the AVR boards are opposite to each other.
- Hand tighten the MF stand-off until you can turn it no further.
MF Stand-Off
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Plate “02” Step 3:
- Use your wrenches to tighten the stand-off an extra quarter turn. (90° or π/2 radians)
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Plate “02” Step 4:
- Repeat the previous steps to mate the MF stand-offs into the FF stand-offs on the deck below.
- Plates “01” and “02” should look similar to the pictures to the left.
1
2
3
4
5
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Plate “03” Step 1:
- Take one (1) long stand-off and place the male end through one of the 5 holes on the plate with the serial number ending in “03.”
- The threaded end should protrude on the bottom side of the plate to thread into MF stand-off on plate “02.”
5
21
3
4
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Plate “03” Step 2:
- Clock or rotate plate “03” 180° such that the AVR boards on plate “02” and “03” are opposite to each other.
- Hand tighten the MF stand-off until you can turn it no further.
Clo
cked
180
°
MF
Sta
nd
-Off
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Plate “03” Step 3:
- Use your wrenches to tighten the stand-off an extra quarter turn. (90° or π/2 radians)
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Plate “03” Step 4:
- Repeat the previous steps to mate the MF stand-offs into the MF stand-offs on the deck below.
- Your stack should resemble the picture to the left.
1
2
3
4
5
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Plate “04” Step 1:
- Take one (1) long stand-off and place the male end through one of the 5 holes on the plate with the serial number ending in “04.”
- The threaded end should protrude on the bottom side of the plate to thread into MF stand-off on plate “03.”
5
21
3
4
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Plate “04” Step 2:
- Clock or rotate plate “04” 180° such that the AVR boards on plate “04” and “03” are opposite to each other.
- Hand tighten the MF stand-off until you can turn it no further.
Clocked 180°
MF Stand-Off
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Plate “04” Step 3:
- Use your wrenches to tighten the stand-off an extra quarter turn. (90° or π/2 radians)
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Plate “04” Step 4:
- Repeat the previous steps to mate the MF stand-offs into the MF stand-offs on the deck below.
- Your stack should resemble the picture to the left.
12
3
4
5
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Plate “05” Step 1:
- Take one (1) long stand-off and place the male end through one of the 5 holes on the plate with the serial number ending in “05.”
- The threaded end should protrude on the bottom side of the plate to thread into MF stand-off on plate “04.”
5
21
3
4
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Plate “05” Step 2:
- Clock or rotate plate “05” 180° such that the AVR boards on plate “05” and “04” are opposite to each other.
- Hand tighten the MF stand-off until you can turn it no further.
Clo
cked
180
°
MF Stand-Off
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Plate “05” Step 3:
- Use your wrenches to tighten the stand-off an extra quarter turn. (90° or π/2 radians)
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Plate “05” Step 4:
- Repeat the previous steps to mate the MF stand-offs into the MF stand-offs on the deck below.
- Your stack should resemble the picture to the left.
1
23
4 5
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Bottom Bulkhead 1:
- Carefully turn the stack upside down.
- Place the bottom bulkhead (with the outer bolt circle) on the bottom of the stack
-Make sure the notch aligns with the set of blue RBF wires as shown.
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Bottom Bulkhead 2:
- Take one (1) 1/2” bolt and locking washer and hand screw it into the center stand-off as shown.
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Bottom Bulkhead 2:
- Lightly tighten the 1/2” bolt and lock washer with the hex key.
- Important: Don’t not over tighten the bolt. After all bolts are in, they will be torqued to 30 in*lbs.
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Bottom Bulkhead 3:
- Insert and tighten the remaining four (4) 1/2” bolts and washers on the bottom bulkhead.
- Note: Add the bolts in an alternating fashion (like tire lug nuts) as indicated above. Tighten until bolts are flush with the plate.
1
3 4
25
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Bottom Bulk Head 4:
- Have two people in the group carefully rotate the stack 180° so that it now rests on the bottom bulkhead.
- Your stack should resemble the picture to the left.
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Outer Skin 1:
- Ensure that the blue wires all pass down the channel with the LEDs.
- Also check that no wires or objects are on the edge of any of the plate.
- Place the outer skin onto the bottom bulkhead.
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Outer Skin 2:
- Align the outer skin to allow the skin and bulkhead holes to line up.
- By hand, screw in all eight (8) 3/8” bolts through the skin to attach it to the bottom bulkhead.
Good Alignment
- Important: Do not over tighten the bolts. The bolts will be torqued to 30 in*lbs
8 Total
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Outer Skin 3:
- Use the hex key to lightly tighten all eight (8) 3/8 bolts
- Note: Use an alternating pattern (like tire lug nuts).
- Caution: Do not over tighten the bolts. The bolts will be torqued to 30 in*lbs once all structural bolts are installed.
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Outer Skin 4:
- Your structure should now resemble the picture to the left.
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Outer Skin 5:
- Place the top bulkhead on the stack as shown to the left.
-Make sure that the notch aligns with the wire path way.
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Outer Skin 6:
- Align the outer skin to allow the skin and bulkhead holes to align.
- By hand, screw in all eight (8) 3/8” bolts into the skin to attach it to the top bulkhead.
Good Alignment
8 Total
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Outer Skin 7:
- Use the hex key to lightly tighten all eight (8) 3/8 bolts
- Note: Use an alternating pattern (like tire lug nuts).
- Caution: Do not over tighten the bolts. The bolts will be torqued to 30 in*lbs once all structural bolts are installed.
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Outer Skin 8:
- Your structure should now resemble the picture to the left.
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Top Bulk Head 1:
- You might find that your top bulkhead bolts don’t align perfectly.
- If this is the case, reach in through a window and apply a small amount of force to achieve alignment.
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Top Bulkhead 2:
- Once alignment is achieved, insert one (1) 5/8” bolt and lock washer into the center hole.
- Lightly tighten the bolt with the hex key.
- Important: Leave this bolt loose enough to make slight adjustments to the other four (4) bolts.
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Top Bulkhead 3:
- By hand, lightly screw in the other four (4) 5/8” bolts and lock washers.
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Top Bulkhead 4:
- Use your hex key to tighten all five (5) 5/8” bolts and lock washers on the top of the bulkhead.
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Top Bulkhead 5:
- Your structure should look like this, but with more wires coming down the pass-through.
- Note: All LEDs and connectors should be visible in the wire way.
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Final Product:
Congratulations!
You have completed integration of your payload with the RockSat can.
We will now walk through a shorting plug test, pull the RDY LED, and get all structural bolts torqued and ready for the hand-off to Wallops engineers!
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