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Intro Blah Blah LUXE Insider LUXE Loves LUXE Loathes Drab vs. Fab LUXE Itineraries1 LUXE MADRID
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Madrid
Long overshadowed by its Gaudi-er sibling Barcelona, Madrid has slowly but surely blossomed into a charming city in its own right, as sophisticated as it
is fun, as welcoming as it is exciting, and with passion enough to prove it’s the capital for good reason.
With Picasso blue skies, world-renowned museums, legendary nightlife and a skyrocketing culinary
and shopping scene, you might even argue that Madrid reigns supreme. Now all that’s left to do is set
foot in the reina Sofia museum and ask – Miró, Miró, on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all?
The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated travelerwww.luxecityguides.com
Citi presents LUXE City Guides
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blah blah
Best time to visit is spring and
autumn (May is tops), summer is
brick-oven hot and the whole city
shuts down in aug, while winter
is cold and clear
Barajas airport to town: around
30 mins / €25 by taxi
Taxis are plentiful, just raise your
hand. The Metro is fast, efficient,
and all trips are €1
real Madrid matches are Sep-
May (note fútbol is a religion,
insult it at your peril), and feast
day of San isidro (15 May) is
bullfighting hell
almost all shops are shut for
lunch from approximately 2-5pm
and closed on Sundays (except
in the Sol district and on the 1st
Sunday of the month)
Madrileños tend to dress up, so
ditch the flip-flops
Many of the exciting new
restaurants are in the suburbs,
beyond old Madrid, so get out
there and eat
Smoking is supposedly
banned in public places, but
unfortunately the rule is seldom
actually enforced
Madrid is safe, but beware the
odd rogue pickpocket
rush hour is 9-10am, 6-8pm and
2-4am on weekends
You’ll need to show photo id if
paying by credit card
don’t wait for waiters, wave at
them politely – just don’t expect
them to be polite back to you
international country code is +34,
always add 91 for local calls
in an emergency, dial 112
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Baruc corazóN
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Madrid-based fashion designer Baruc corazón has had a long
and illustrious career in fashion and design – he previously
taught at the prestigious art institute of chicago, and worked
at international firms like Loewe and Hermès, before breaking
out to launch his own clothing line. The Baruc corazón
collection is a self-titled ‘statement’ of style and originality,
made with the sophisticated clothing connoisseur in mind.
www.baruccorazon.com
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Baruc corazóN
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1) What’s the best local delicacy in Madrid?
The churros and picatostes (fried bread) for breakfast, or to end a long night the cocido madrileño
(the typical stew of Madrid) and another version, the cocido maragato. For cocktails, historical
Le Cock Bar, or the sandwiches and champagne cocktails at Embassy. i love the huevos rotos
(broken eggs) at Casa Lucio and the arroz ciego (blind rice, a sort of paella) of Samm, and the
seafood at El Pescador – they say that Madrid is the best port in Spain, even though it has no sea!
www.barcock.com • www.embassy.eswww.casalucio.es • www.marisqueriaelpescador.net
2) What are your three favorite shops in Madrid?
Portuondo Wakonigg, for its winning combination of classic antiques, furniture and conceptual
art. Elena Benarroch, for the best fur craftsmanship, incredible amber pieces by Felipe Gonzalez,
and jewels designed by artist adolfo Barnatán. Casa Hernanz, for the best espadrilles, worth
braving the queue of tourists…
www.jorgeportuondo.com • www.elenabenarroch.eswww.alpargateria-casahernanz.com
3) Where do you go to get clothes tailored or bespoke?
Normally i do it in my showroom – since i am a designer, i have to try everything myself
before selling – that is the best guarantee. otherwise, Pedro Muñoz is a traditional tailor that
stays true to classic and casual styles, and there is also some new bespoke tailoring in places
like Ertl & Cohn or Knack Men.
www.sastreriapedromunoz.com • www.ertlandcohn.comwww.knackmen.com
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Baruc corazóN
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4) What is your favorite neighborhood for a day of shopping?
on Calle Génova there is an interesting mix of shops, art galleries, showrooms and delicatessens.
The street Blanca de Navarra has florists, shops and charming café La Vaquería Suiza, while
calle de orfila has Marlborough Gallery and Soledad Lorenzo. other favorites for shopping
include Argensola and Fernando VI, both offering a variety of boutiques…
www.lavaqueriasuiza.com • www.marlboroughgallery.comwww.soledadlorenzo.com
5) What are 3 of your favorite restaurants?
Nikkei225, for toro usuzukuri, sea urchin ceviche, and nigiri criollo.
Sudestada, for cua Mem (Vietnamese spring rolls with crab and pork) and red curry with beef
cheeks. Julián de Tolosa, for perretxicos in season, white asparagus, hearts of Tudela, and the
best, roasted in wood-fired grill steak!
www.nikkei225.es • www.sudestada.euwww.casajuliandetolosa.com
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Hotel
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TABErNA MATrITuM
This cozy, warm and woody vinoteca just
minutes from Plaza Mayor boasts an
extensive menu of Spanish wines and a
selection of palate-pleasing tapas. The
waiters are knowledgeable and speak
English, and the in-house sommelier can
help with pairings too.
Cava Alta, 17 / M: La Latina / +34 91 365
8237 / closed Mon-Wed lunch www.matritum.es
Bar
CASA dE MAdrId
For a taste of old Madrid, one of the seven
uniquely themed suites at this guesthouse
tucked inside a c.18th building will do very
nicely. With a sumptuous home-away-from-
home feel, the lodgings are decorated with
hand-painted murals, gorgeous linens,
antiques and art, plus there’s a breakfast
salon and charming library too.
2/F / Arrieta, 2 / M: Ópera / +34 91 559 5791 www.casademadrid.com
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HoTEL urBAN
The sleek, modern rooms at this
design-conscious hotel are only topped
by the truly excellent public spaces,
including the rooftop pool, La Terraza
lounge, Glass bar and Europa deco
restaurant. Book suite duplex rooms
for unrivalled city views.
Carrera de San Jerónimo, 34 / M: Sol /
+34 91 787 7770www.derbyhotels.com/en/hotel-urban
Hotel
lUXE lovEs
QuINTANA 30
Where market fresh produce meets
traditional Basque cooking, Quintana
30 is Miguel Ángel Muñano’s popular
neighborhood jewel, consistently
delivering dishes that put pricier,
fancier establishments to shame.
Quintana, 30 / M: Ventura Rodriguez / +34 91 542 6520 / closed Sun
Dining
THE LAB rooM
This sleek grotto of indulgence has
swimming and hydrotherapy pools,
aromatherapy showers, hammam, gym,
massages, facials, waxing and even
a barbershop, so you can stay trim,
taut and pretty.
Occidental Miguel Angel Hotel / Miguel
Angel, 31 / M: Gregorio Marañon / +34 91 452 0523
www.thelabroom.com
Spa
SErGI AroLA GASTro
For an intimate dinner that’s an all-
night affair, head straight to this adria-
trained chef’s two Michelin-starred
restaurant, set in a modern earth-
toned tunnel and serving up staggering
flavors and precise techniques with
just three prix-fixe menus.
Zurbano, 31 / M: Rubén Dario / +34 91 310 2169 / closed Sun-Mon / set menu / jacket required, tie suggested for men
sergiarola.es
Dining
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orIoL BALAGuEr
Hailing from catalonia, this world-class
pastry perfectionist has an impressive
list of accomplishments, including
‘Best dessert in the World 2001’ and
‘Best Pastry chef in Spain 2008’. aside
from chocolates, cakes and pastries,
oriol is known for unique, one-off
creations, and delights in bespoke
chocolate work too.
Jose Ortega y Gasset, 44 / M: Lista /
+34 91 401 6463 www.oriolbalaguer.com
Dining
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TrIáNGuLo dEL ArTE
You’ve hit the art jackpot, so buy yourself
a Paseo del arte (see drab vs Fab) and
spend a day browsing Madrid’s big name
museums: must-see national art museum
The Prado for Spanish Masters, modern
art mecca reina Sofía for Spanish
Modernists, and the former private
collection at Thyssen-Bornemisza for
exquisite highlights in between.
Museo del Prado / Paseo del Prado / M: Atocha / +34 91 330 2800 / 10am-8pm /
closed Sun / go between 2-4pm or after 6pm and avoid on weekends
www.museodelprado.es
Museo Reina Sofia / Santa Isabel, 52 / M: Atocha / +34 91 774 1000 / 10am-9pm Mon-
Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun / closed Tue www.museoreinasofia.es
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza / Paseo del Prado, 8 / M: Banco de Espana / +34 91 369
0151 / 10am-7pm / closed Mon www.museothyssen.org
Activities
JoSé ALFrEdo
Sink into a velvet green sofa in this
plush, deco cocktail den, a favorite
among the city’s scene-seekers for its
moody ambiance as well as its eclectic
drinks menu, which offers the best in
Madrid’s mixology.
Silva, 22 / M: Callao / +34 91 521 4960 / 6pm-2.30am Mon-Thurs, 8pm-3am Fri-
Sat, 10pm-2.30am Sun
Bar
MErCAdo dE SAN MIGuEL
By day, this traditional market is home to
stalls of vendors selling everything from
produce to pasta to pastries, with the
scene much the same as it was when the
market opened in 1916. But by night, the
lively halls transform to accommodate a
c.21st scene, with locals and visitors alike
gathering for tapas, wine and beer.
Plaza de San Miguel / +34 91 548 1214 /
open 10am-midnight Sun-Wed, 10am-2am Thu-Sat
mercadodesanmiguel.es
Activities/Dining
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CASA LuCIo
This traditional, old school tasca is a
Madrid institution, serving up hearty
castilian fare to locals for over 30
years. The menu consists of classics
like suckling pig and roasted lamb,
but the huevos estrellados (broken
eggs mixed with potatoes) alone have
garnered a loyal following and are not
to be missed.
Cava Baja, 35 / M: La Latina / +34 91 365
3252 / closed Sat lunchwww.casalucio.es
Dining
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LA TrAINErA
iberico ham is the only meat you’ll find
on the menu at this marine-themed
restaurant, which sticks to what it does
best: cooking the city’s freshest fish
and choicest seafood to a devoted and
rowdy crowd. Extremely popular, so
book ahead.
Lagasca, 60 / M: Serrano / +34 91 576
8035 / closed Sun www.latrainera.es
Dining
JIMMy’S SCooTEr
a fabulous warehouse stocked full of
truly dapper European and Spanish
fashions mainly for gents, but with
a lady’s selection too. Plus, all of the
furniture and objects in store (both
new and vintage) are up for sale,
making this a good spot to rummage
for home ware and décor.
Villalar, 11 / M: Banco de España /
+34 91 435 3460www.scooterhombre.com
Shopping
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BuLLFIGHTS
Torturing animals for human
pleasure has really got to stop
SIESTA
Everything closing in the middle
of the day for at least three hours
“MAñANA, MAñANA”
if you need it today, good luck…
MEAT, MEAT, MEAT
anyone seen any
fresh vegetables?
lUXE loathEs
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BALLooNING
Taking a tourist-filled coach bus an
hour out of town to see Segovia’s
marvelous medieval fortresses and
gothic cathedrals can be wearing,
so why not consider seeing the
stunning ancient spires from above,
on a magical hot air balloon flight with
Ski-Kamel Sportour?
www.skikamel.com
drab vs. Fab
CooKEry CLASSES
Taking home photographs of stellar
Spanish cuisine is only half the story,
instead how about signing up for a
cooking class with Alambique and
bringing home first-hand knowledge
and recipes for all those authentic
flavors? classes are in Spanish, but
interpreters can be arranged.
www.alambique.com
CITy SIGHTSEEING
Why wander the wonderful streets
of Madrid with your head down
in a map when you could have the
experts at Context Travel arrange
personalized art, culture, and museum
walking seminars.
www.contexttravel.com
ArT PASSPorT
Queuing outside each of the three
museums in Madrid’s famed art
Triangle (made up of The Prado, the
Thyssen-Bornemisza, and the reina
Sofia) is a huge waste of valuable
time. Purchasing a Paseo del Arte
at any of the three museums, which
also gains you entry to the other two,
means you spend maximum time
looking at the art!
Body CLoCK
Fighting the Madrileño way of life
is frankly a pointless and painful
endeavor; instead just go with it by
having lunch at 2pm, dinner at 10pm,
cocktails at midnight and dancing at
2am. remember, in Madrid, it’s always
siesta, then fiesta!
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one of the most passionate cities on the
planet, Madrid is the capital of siestas,
fiestas, wining and dining, and has
perfected the lifestyle of lie-ins and late
nights. For a special occasion, however,
rise at dawn and have your hotel pack you
a breakfast, then slip out the door and fire
up for a romantic hot-air balloon flight
with Ski-Kamel Sportour (see LuXE
Loves). Watch the sun rise as you float
over Madrid’s woods or Segovia’s ancient
spires, and cherish that unbeatable
scenery before you land back on firm
ground. Since it’s still early, why not take
a morning dip in the hydrotherapy pools
at urban oasis The Lab room (see LuXE
Loves)? refreshed after your swim and
shower, step outside now to see the city
finally waking up, and head on to your
pre-booked table at La Trainera (see
LuXE Loves), a Madrid seafood institution
serving up the freshest catch to a loyal
crowd of locals. Following lunch, it’s time
for a siesta, so taxi back to your suite
duplex at Hotel urban (see LuXE Loves),
and perhaps pull up a deck chair by the
pretty rooftop pool pre or post nap.
rested, it’s now a short stroll to antiques
hub El rastro, also an excellent way to
sightsee old Madrid while you pick up
some pieces for the mantel back home.
don’t miss the Nuevas Galerías in a
two-storey courtyard, home to a treasure
stash of c.19th -c.20th antiques and
objects. as night falls, put the purse away
and walk past Plaza Mayor to settle in
for supper at intimate vinoteca Taberna
Matritum (see LuXE Loves), where the
warm, woody interior sets the perfect
scene for a bottle of wine and a few plates
of traditional Spanish tapas to share.
The night is still young, so onwards to sip
cocktails and enjoy magical city views on
your hotel rooftop at La Terraza.
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STyLE
Madrid’s style scene is laidback in
comparison to catwalk glam sister cities
Milan and Paris, but as any Balenciaga
and Blahnik lover will know, Spanish
fashion talent is second to none. So dress
to impress and set off for brunch at the
Terrace and Gardens at The ritz, where
the city’s most stylish perch in wicker
chairs and savor Spanish tapas and
international dishes. From there, it’s a
15-minute stroll to the shops at Salamanca
North, bound to fill every shopper’s
basket with its variety of luxury labels
and indie treasures. Schedule stops at
home grown labels Cristina Castañer for
awesome espadrilles, Amaya Arzuaga
for sculptural day and eveningwear, and
oriol Balaguer (see LuXE Loves) for a
mid-retail chocolate shop, and peruse
the pastry master’s unique creations that
would also make great gifts. as you head
into the afternoon most shops will close
for a few hours, so it’s a good thing you’ve
booked an appointment with Miguel
Palacio for finely tailored women’s wear,
and Baruc Corazón (see LuXE insider) for
crisp, classic men’s shirts. if you’re feeling
weary, taxi next to Chi Spa for a relaxing
and recharging East-meets-West massage
before you make your last shopping
stop at Jimmy’s Scooter (open from
4.30pm, see LuXE Loves) for fabulous
European clothing as well as new and
vintage homeware finds. You’ve worked
up an appetite by now, so make for your
reserved table at Quintana 30 (see LuXE
Loves), a neighborhood staple delivering
delicious, authentic Basque flavors, and
simply unmissable oven-baked cod. imbibe
cocktails with the city’s hippest at deco-
inspired mixology den Jose Alfredo (see
LuXE Loves), until finally it’s back to your
sleek suite at the ME Madrid, where you
can take nightcaps and 360-degree city
views at rooftop terrace The Penthouse.
lUXE itinErarY
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CuLTurE
With its rich history, formidable art,
and wonderful food, Madrid boasts a
colorful culture that every visitor should
experience. Casa de Madrid (see LuXE
Loves) will transport you back in time,
with just seven unique suites housed in
a c.18th building, each lovingly appointed
with old-world ephemera. after taking
breakfast in the salon, head out for a
walking tour of old Madrid along calle
de Toledo and calle Mayor, ticking off
Basilica San Francisco el Grande, with
the largest dome in Spain and a chapel
painted by Goya, Palacio real, the official
residence of the Spanish royal Family, old
town hall and former prison Casa de la
Villa, and c.16th renaissance castle Casa
de Cisneros. From here, it’s but a block to
lunch inside the iron and glass façade of
the iconic Mercado de San Miguel (see
LuXE Loves), where dozens of vendors
sell fresh produce, cheese, wine and tapas
to busy locals. it’s onwards now for an
afternoon in the renowned art Triangle,
starting at the national Museo del Prado
(see LuXE Loves). Purchase a Paseo del
arte (see drab vs Fab) and zip through
to admire the works of Goya, Velazquez
and El Greco, then head next to Thyssen-
Bornemisza, housing a former private
collection with standout old Masters and
impressionist pieces, and finally to the
Museo reina Sofia for the pantheon of
Spanish modernists from dali to Miró to
Picasso. after a day spent touring the
grand past, get firmly acquainted with
present-day Madrid via its serious food
scene, and enjoy a much-anticipated meal
at two Michelin-starred top table Sergi
Arola Gastro (see LuXE Loves), where
super chef Sergi serves course after
course of reinvented Spanish cuisine,
pairing traditional ingredients and flavors
with molecular, modern techniques. Be
warned however that dinner chez Sergi
will be a several hour-long affair, and it
will be well past midnight when your bill
finally arrives. Buenas Noche!
lUXE itinErarY
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Ski-Kamel Sportour (see LUXE Loves)
The Lab Room(see LUXE Loves)
La Trainera(see LUXE Loves)
Hotel Urban(see LUXE Loves)
El Rastro Ribera de Curtidores, 21 /
www.elrastro.org
Nuevas GaleríasRibera de Curtidores, 12 /
www.antiguedadesnuevasgalerias.com
Taberna Matritum (see LUXE Loves)
La Terraza Hotel Urban (see LUXE Loves)
thE EssEntials
STyLE
Terrace and GardenThe Ritz Madrid / Plaza de la Lealtad /
+34 91 701 6767 / www.ritzmadrid.com
Cristina CastañerClaudio Cello, 51 / +34 91 578 1890 /
www.castaner.com
Amaya Arzuaga Lagasca, 50 / +34 91 426 2815 /
www.amayaarzuaga.com
Oriol Balaguer (see LUXE Loves)
Miguel Palacio1/F / Monte Esquinza, 24 / +34 91 319
4670 / by apt only / www.miguelpalacio.com
Baruc Corazón (see LUXE Insider) / Plaza Mayor, 30 /
+34 63 843 7302 / www.baruccorazon.com
Chi Spa Conde de Aranda, 6 /
+34 91 578 1340 / www.thechispa.com
Jimmy’s Scooter (see LUXE Loves)
Quintana 30 (see LUXE Loves)
Jose Alfredo (see LUXE Loves)
ME Madrid Plaza de Santa Ana, 14 / +34 91 701
6000 / www.memadrid.com
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CuLTurE
Casa de Madrid (see LUXE Loves)
Basilica San Francisco el Grande Gran Vía de San Francisco, 1
Palacio RealCalle de Bailén /
www.patrimonionacional.es
Casa de la Villa & Casa de CisnerosPlaza de la Villa, 4-5
Mercado de San Miguel (see LUXE Loves)
Museo del Prado (see LUXE Loves)
Thyssen-Bornemisza (see LUXE Loves)
Museo Reina Sofia (see LUXE Loves)
Sergi Arola Gastro (see LUXE Loves)
thE EssEntials
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YoUr lUXE notEs
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