no-tox botox : natural anti-aging ingredients explained moderator: jessica rubino, senior associate...
Post on 28-Dec-2015
214 Views
Preview:
TRANSCRIPT
No-Tox Botox: Natural Anti-Aging Ingredients Explained
Moderator: Jessica Rubino, Senior Associate Editor, Delicious LivingDr. Linda Miles, L. Ac. DOM, Derma e BodycareChris Fields, VP Technology & Science NutriCosmetics /AFS
Hyperpigmentation Collagen/Elastin Fine lines/Wrinkles Inflammation Overall skin health
No-Tox Botox: Natural Anti-Aging Ingredients Explained
Hyperpigmentation Inflammation Overall skin health
PhotoDamage – Sun Protection
Reduced Cell Turnover
Cells remain on the surface longer
Cellular mitosis creates abnormal keratinocytes
Epidermal structure becomes disorganized
Melanocytes over-produce melanosomes
Hyperpigmentation
Damaged collagen and elastin weakens dermal connective tissue
Elasticity degradation
Stratum Corneum:thick and dehydrated
Skin cells areMisshaped &disorganized
Excess melaninCausing unevenSkin tone
Collagen & elastinfibers become weak & damaged
Natural Solutions
Hydrating Anti-Inflammatory
Antioxidants Depigmenting
Olive Oil Chamomile Vitamin A, C, E Licorice
Colloidal Oatmeal
Colloidal Oatmeal Coffee Extract Mulberry
Hyaluronic Acid
Feverfew Green / Black Tea Extract
Arbutin
Melon Extract
Zinc Pomegrate Soy
Krill Oil Fish Oil Grape Seed Extract
Aloesin
Sea Buckhorn
COQ10 Acai Berry Extract
Linoleic Acid
Ceramides Vitamin C Resveratrol Niacinamide
Inflammation
Avenanthramide (ug/ml) - MOA
Unstimulated Stimulated 1 10 100150
160
170
180
190
200
210
220
230
240
250IL
-8 R
ele
ase (
pg
/ml)
fro
m
Kera
tin
ocyte
s
Agents with adjunctive therapeutic potential in atopic dermatitisWallo et al, 65th Annual AAD, Feb 2006, Washington DC
Avenanthramides- Clinical Evidence
0.5 5 500
20
40
60
80
100
120
PPM
Net
His
tam
ine R
ele
ase
(%)
Oat Avenanthramides: new actives to reduce itch sensation in skin. SchmausEt al, 23rd Congress of Intr Fed of Soc Cos Chemists, Oct 2006 Orlando FL
Feverfew
Tierney et al – 63rd Annual Meeting of the AAD – inhibition of UV Radiation induced erythema
Liebel et al, ADD Feb 2005 – demonstrated strong anti-inflammatory properties
Nebus et al ADD Feb 2005 – Significant improvement in erythema (n=31)
Compound Mediator Release (TNF-α ICD50 (ug/ml)
Feverfew PFE 0.13Green Tea 4.6Echinacea 20Boswelia seratta 24.5Licorice Extract 54.7Black tea 79.9White Tea 125Bisabolol 160Chamomile 320Aloe Vera 535Olive Leaf 675
PFE - purified feverfew extractTNF-α ICD50 = conc req to achieve 50% inhibition of tumor necrosis factor-α Johson & Johnson, 2006
Glycyrrhiza- Licorice
Anti-bacteria
Anti-protozoan
Anti-tumor
Depigmentation
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY:Razor TestShaved SkinUV Induced Erythema TestHemoglobin reflectanceCytokine production
Focus on Erythema, measure skin redness of shaven skin using reflectance spectroscopy
Contro
l
Vehicl
e
LicA
ext
ract
(.0
25%
Lico
rice)
0
1
2
3
4
5
Skin
Red
ness
Δ a
-valu
es
Anti-inflammatory efficacy of Licochalcone AKolbe et al Arch Dermatol Res (2008)
Hyperpigmentation
Two Forms of Melanin produced in the Epidermis:PheomelaninEumelanin
Melanin Biosynthesis (melanogenesis)GeneticsEnvironmentalLifestyleMedications
ProductionAction of the Enzyme Tyrosinase
CopperOxygen Sulfur
Melanin Production Pathways
Melanin Production
Pigmentation pathway:
Tyrosinase Inhibition
Inhibition of melanin/melanosome transport into keratinocytes
Increased Epidermal turnover
Tyrosinase
Activated Tyrosinase
Melanin
Transcription of the
tyrosinase Gene
Signals:UVIrritationHormonesRadicals
Keratinocytes
Glycosylation+ sugar
Tyrosine
Melanin is packed into melanosomes
Melanin Production
Pigmentation pathway:
Tyrosinase Inhibition
Inhibition of melanin/melanosome transport into keratinocytes
Increased Epidermal turnover
Tyrosinase
Activated Tyrosinane
Melanin
Transcription of the
tyrosinase Gene
Signals:UVIrritationHormonesRadicals
Keratinocytes
Glycosylation+ sugar
Tyrosine
Melanin is packed into melanosomes
ActivityInhibitors:Kojic AcidArbutinLicorice
GlycationInhibitors:N-acetylglucosamine
Gene production inhibitors:retinoids
Signal Reduction:Sunscreen, AA
Melanosome Transfer Inhibition:Niacinamide, Soy Protein
A review of the historyMechanism Ingredient Activity
UV Absorption Titanium dioxide, oxybenzone
Blocks UV
Tyrosinase synthesis inhibitor
Glucosamine, galactosamine
Exhibits cytotoxic effects
Tyronsinase Inhibitor Ascorbic Acid, kojic acid, mulberry extract, licorice, arbutin, Curcuminoids
Melanin Biosynthesis Kojic acid Chelates copper ions
Cytotoxic effects to melanocytes
Hydroquinone Safety Issues
Reduce preformed melanin
Tocopherols, ascorbic acid
Inhibits polymerization of melanin
Endothelin-1 inhibitor Chamomilla extractErigeron breviscapus
Inhibits ET-1 induced DNA synthesis
Active Soy Performance
Hyperpigmentation Blotchiness Dullness Fine Lines Overall Skin Tone Overall Appearance0
10
20
30
40
50
60
Active-Soy Vehcle
Mean %
Im
pro
vem
ent
from
Base
line
Efficacy of Soy Moisturizer in PhotoAging, Wallo et al, JDD, Sept 2007
Erigeron breviscapus
Control Arbutin (0.74mM)
EB 1μm EB 5μm EB 10μm0
20
40
60
80
100
120
Tyro
sin
ase A
cti
vit
y (
%)
Depigmentation of Melanocytes by Matricaria Acid Methyl Ester isolated from Erigeron breviscapus. Luo et al, Biol Pharm Bull 32(6) 2009
Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine
0 4 6 8
-0.1
-8.32667268468867E-17
0.0999999999999999
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.6
Niacin+NAG Vehicle
Mea
n C
hang
e in
% s
pot
area
fra
ctio
n
Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizer with combinationOf topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind studyKimball et al., B J Dermatol, 2010, 162(2)
0 4 6 8
-1.5
-1
-0.5
0
0.5
1
1.5
Niacin+NAG Vehicle
Mean
Ch
an
ge in
mela
nin
even
ness
fro
m b
ase
lin
e
Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine
Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizer with combinationOf topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind studyKimball et al., B J Dermatol, 2010, 162(2)
Combination TherapyNiacinamide & N-acetyl glucosamine
Dual Sites of Activation
N-acetyl glucosamine –
Inhibits Tyrosinase
Niacinamide –
Inhibits the transfer of melanin-
containing melanosomes to the outer layers.
Inflammation+Hyperpigmentation:Combination therapies
Placebo CDG GCA Combination
-15%
-10%
-5%
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
Spots UV Damage Wrinkles
Perc
en
t im
pro
vem
en
t (v
isia
an
aly
sis)
Dr. Raval, MD Raval Facial Aesthetics, Rocky Mountain Laser Clinic, 2011CDG = Glucarate 3 w/w%GCA = Green Coffee Extract (50% CA) 3 w/w%Combination CDG+GCA (3 w/w%)
Sunscreen Advances
UVA / UVB AbsorptionZinc Oxide / Titanium Dioxide
Photostabilizers – OctocryleneAvobenzoneEcamsule
Antioxidants – Reduce ROSGreen TeaSoyVitamin C
Pisum Sativum Extract
Day 7 Day 28
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
2
4
Pea Placebo
Mela
nin
Index
(IU
)
Pisum Sativum Extract for Safe & Self-tanning, Imbert et al Cosmetics & ToiletriesAugust, 2009 V124.
top related