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M BRO I DERY
TITCHESM . E . W ILK INSON
NEW YORK
'REDE R ICK A . STOKE S COMPAN Y
PUB L ISHE RS
PR E'ACE
N this collection of Em b roidery Stitches , I have eu
deavoured to place before those artists who are interestedin needlecraft an exposit ion of the most useful and artisticstitches that have formed a part of my own work during
several years’ study and practice of Art Embro idery . Some ofthese will be fami liar to Needle—artists ' others wi l l serve toexemplify how
,in process of working , fresh stitches may be
evolved from old ones or how,when originality gains ground
entirely new stitches become apparent and workable .
A point somewhat overlooked in Art Embroidery is the factthat each separate sti tch is a design in itself . I f this principlebe fully recognised
,the necessity for careful and systematic
study of the forms and functions of Embroidery Stitches willimmediately become obvious to the student and worker .Embroidery Stitches is planned with a 'i ew to facili tating
reference,and to affording immediate conception of the inti
mate connection between illustration and explanation . Toattain this end
,the i llust rations are placed in uniform spaces
throughout the volume,two on each page and in each case
the description appears opposite its corresponding design .
In this the arrangement differs from that of other Needleworkmanuals
,in affording that clearness
,sequence
,and finality
,so
agreeable to the worker,which becomes impossible where
il lustrat ions are interspersed at irregular intervals in a continuous letterpress .
Every endeavour has been made to ensure simplicity andpoint in the directions and where possible in a book of thi ssize , suggestions have been given for the application of stitchesto useful purposes .
The alphabetical system of arrangement has been adopted,
as being most suitable for a book of reference .
In the comparatively few cases in which one stitch is knownby two names
,the design has been repeated under the different
headings,to maintain clearness and alphabetical sequence .
M. E . WILKINSON .
Kendal .Oct . 1912 .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
I . ANCHOR STITCH .
-This st itch is similar to
Horn stitch ,but with a longer middle portion . To
work,make two side stitches 'oined at the bottom '
make a Chain stitch covering the 'oining , fasten thisChain stitch down by means of a long overcast stit ch ,
taking the needle to the back of the work .
2 . ALGERIAN STITCH .
—A kind o f Cross st itch
somewhat akin to Cretan st itch,but worked on canvas
.
The stitch may either be worked very closely or openly .
Bring the needle to the right side of the work . Count
about five threads down,take up three threads . Cross
over to the top line,and continue in the same way .
(See Doub le Algerian stitch .)
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
3 . ALL- O'ER STITCH .
—A stroke st itch used to
work groundings where no particular pattern is desired .
The stitch is made in any direct ion and of any size .
4 . ALPHABET STITCH .
~ —A species of Couching
used for working monograms,etc . Lay strands of
cotton or wool along the main lines of the letter,forming
a padding . Work over these as in ordinary Couching .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
5 . APPLIQUE STITCH .
—~A sti tch used in applique
work to attach one material to another— in reality a
kind of buttonholing,but beginning from the left hand
side , and worked towards the worker , whereas correct
buttonholing is worked away from the worker . The
latter stitch makes a knot,which Applique stitch
avoids . The stitch is necessari ly worked very closely
over the raw edge of the applique’ material,to avoid
fraying .
6 . BACK STITCH .—A neat stitch used to orna
ment linen or fine canvas . Bring the needle to the
surface of the material,insert i t two threads behind the
working thread,take up four threads forward
,bringing
the needle up two threads in front of the working thread .
Continue taking two threads behind and two before
the working thread,putting the needle each time into
the same hole as the last sti tch . The beauty of the
st itch depends upon its perfect regulari ty . I t is best
to draw a thread for a guide .
EMBROIDERY STITCHEQ
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
7 . BALL STITCH .
—A stitch used in making orna
mental balls for children . B ind some loose rags
tightly together into a ball . Wind string across as
in the i llustration,forming sections . Thread a needle
with bright- coloured wool,and work round and round ,
passing the needle each time under a strand of string .
I f di fferent co lours be used the effect is very pleasing .
8 . BAR STITCH .
—A stitch used in lace and other
open work,to connect edges by crossing over a space .
Pass threads across from one edge to the other and work
over these . The bars may be plain or twisted,as in
(a) , or buttonholed (b) , or overcast closely as in (c) ,and may be single or in groups of threes , fours , etc .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
I O
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
9 . BASKET STITCfI .
—This is a dist inct ive stitchfrom that used in Basket Couching (see Couching) ,and is a kind of Cross stitch . To work ,
draw two parallel
lines any distance apart and mark dots at even distances
on both lines . Bring the needle from the under to the
upper side of the material on the first dot on the lower
line . Cross over and insert in the third dot on the top
line,bringing it out on the corresponding dot on the
lower line . Put the needle into the second dot on the
top line,bring out on the second dot on the lower line ,
and cross over to four . Continue the pattern in
this way .
I O . BATTLEMENT STITCH .
-Formed of a series
of long and short stitches,making a species of fret
pattern . I t may be worked in any size,and either
single,double , or treble lines .
I I
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
o w e m o w m w m w
O m m w m m w w w m
12
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
14
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
15
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
BRICK STITCH .
—An all- over or grounding
stitch . I t may be used as a Couching , or in simple
series of sm gle lines as in the i llustrat ion .
I 6 . BUCKLE STITCH .
-Thic m ay b e Worked
straight lines as in or w ith tiny satin sti tches
I 7
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
1 8
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
I 9
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
20
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
22
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
21 . BUTTONHOLE STITCH .
—There are severalkinds of buttonholing , all variat ions of the plainstitch . An ordinary buttonhole may have both endsround
,both square
,or one each round and square .
Buttonholes should be worked accurately by a thread .
The corners contain seven st itches geometricallyarranged (see (a ) and To work a buttonhole
,
hold the work under the thumb with the edges awayfrom the worker . Begin by slipping the needle betweenthe edges
,bringing it out on the surface about four
or five threads in . Put the needle over the edge ofthe buttonhole to the under side
,insert i t again about
two threads from where it came out before . While sti l lin this posit ion
,throw the thread over the point of
the needle from left to right,forming a loop . Pull the
needle through,and draw up closely into a firm knot
at the edge of the buttonhole . Repeat,making all
st itches uniform .
22 . BUTTONHOLE STITCHES —Buttonhole stitch
may be arranged in many ways t o give variety in
ornamental edges . The il lustrations shew (a ) Dog
tooth buttonhole (b) Serrated buttonhole (c)Scal loped buttonhole '(d) Fringed buttonhole .
In the last example the w orking thread is passed over
a mesh after each stitch,giving uni form length to the
loops . A netting mesh,lead penc il
,ruler
,etc .
,will
serve the purpose .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
24
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
23 . BUTTONHOLE WITH CHAIN STITCH .
The buttonholing is worked first in small or large waves,
and the Chain stitch is added afterwards . The size
of the waves may be increased if desired , to adapt the
pattern to varying spaces (see a) .
24 . CABLE STITCH .
—A variety of Chain stitch,
but more intricate in the working . Bring the needle to
the surface,hold the thread down under the left thumb
pass the needle from left to right under the portion of
thread held down , as at Turn the needle round
perpendicularly with the loop of thread on it,as at
still holding down the thread . Reverse the needle,
as at insert i t in the last Chain stitch 'ust belowwhere the thread last came out
,and bring it out below
in position for the next st itch . Pull the loop tightly
round the head of the needle release the thumb,and
draw the needle through , keeping the thread as the
loop for a Chain stitch . This makes a series o f Chain
stitches connected by a small t ight loop .
25
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
27
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
28
EMBROIDERY STITCHE .
C
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
29 . CASTLE STITCH .
—Draw parallel lines to
gauge correct distances , and work with straight strokes .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
33
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
35
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY ST ITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
39
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
40
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
42
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
41 . CRETAN STITCH .
—A stitch which , when
worked closely , gives the appearance of close plaiting .
To work , draw two parallel lines , bring the needle from
the under t o the upper surface of the material,on the
left- hand corner of the lowest line but one . The needle
in working is always at right angles t o these lines .
Insert the needle in the top line slightly further to the
right of where it came out on the bottom line,and take
a small stitch downwards then insert i t in the bottom
line and similarly take a small sti tch upwards . In
taking the stitch the thread must be kept to the left
of the needle as in the illustration , or the plaiting will
not take place . The illustration is drawn more openly
than worked,in order to dist inguish the threads .
42 . CRE'ICE STITCH .
—~A stitch worked in slant
ing lines for borders . Lines should always be drawn
as a guide to correct spacing .
43
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
44
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
47
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
49
EMBROIDERY ST ITCHES
50
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
49 . COUCHED HERRING BONE .
- This makes ex
trem ely pretty borders , especially when used outside
a row of ornamental darning with a fringed edge .
The Couching sti tch should always be a different colour
from the Herringbone sti tch .
50 . COUCHINGS .
—A term used to denote theattachment of loose strands of material t o a foundationby means of other working threads . Couching is distinctfrom Applique, which is a term usually applied to theattachment of solid pieces of material t o a foundation .
The chief kinds of Couching are — P lain,Basket
,
Battlement,Brick
,D iagonal
,D iamond
,Floral
, 'eometrical
,Tartan
,and Check Couchings .
(a) Pla in—Strands of material are laid in rows andfastened by single sti tches .
(b) B asket.
—'ives the effect of interlaced strands .
Lay a foundation of cord or thick cotton to form apadding . At right angles arrange a covering of strandsof si lk
,wool , etc . Fasten in uniform groups by means
of upright sti tches falling alternately betw een the linesof padding material .(c) B attlem ent. —Couching in the form of battlement
out lines .
(d) B ricks—Strands are placed in the form of brickwork .
S I
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
52
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
54
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
53 . COUCHINGS (continued) —Couchings may be
worked in the form of tartans or checks . Strands of
coloured si lks or narrow ribbons may thus be couched
according to the kind of pattern desired . The i llust ra
t ion represents rows of narrow ribbons so couched with
dark silk .
STITCH—This sti tch,
called from i ts appearance,consists of one long upright
line,with two branching strokes , be tween which is
worked a c ircle in solid Chain sti tch . I t is suitable
for borderings .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
59
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
60
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
62
EMBRO IDERY ST ITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY ST ITCHES
EMBROIDERY sTITCHEs
66
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
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EMBROIDERY STITCHES
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EMBROIDERY STITCHES
69 . EASEL STITCH .
—A stitch suitable for working
ornamental perpendicular lines embroidery .
EYELET STITCH .
—This stitch used
smal l eyelet - holes in embroidery . The working is
usually very close overcasting , but sometimes a firm
buttonhole is used instead where the material i s inclined
to fray . To work,
first run one or two threads round
the eyelet-hole to keep the threads together,and then
work over these threads . This gives a raised effect
to the work . Eyelet -holes are generally round,but
not necessarily . The working is sometimes done first
and the centre cut away afterw ards .
EMBROIDERY srrrcnes
72
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
73
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY ST ITCHES
FIN ISHING STITCH —The last securing stitch
in any kind of needlework . In some cases the thread
is run along a short distance , in others an extra stitch
is taken over the tOp of the previ ous one in knitting
and crochet the finishing sti tch is made by drawing the
end of thread through the last sti tch made . (See
Fastening-off.)
79
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
80
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
79 . FIRE STITCH .
—This consists of long sti tches
in any direction ,'oined at thetop but not at the bottom .
So called from its resemblance to'ame when worked .
FISH BONE STITCH . stitch which when
worked in series , resembles the backbone of a fish .
Sim ilar'
to Feather sti tch , but differentiated by the
needle always coming up centrally between the two
side l ines,and being worked rather more closely .
Sometimes a back stitch is used as the central con
meeting stitch .
8 1
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
82
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
86
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
85 . FLORENTINE STITCH .
—This is similar to
Cashmere st itch,with difference that the sti tches
are alternatively over two threads , slanting
in the same direction
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
88
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
87 . FRENCH KNOTS .
—Used for fi lling in centres
of 'owers,dot-markings on leaves
,etc . Bring up the
thread to the right, side of the material , and hold i t
down under the thumb . Twist the thread three or
four times (according to the S ize of knot required)round the needle between the thumb and linen , sti l l
holding down the'
thread . Put the needle back to the
wrong side about two threads behind the place w here
it came out a'
first,and bring i t out at the exact place
where the next knot is required . Always hold down
the thread as long as possible in order that the knot
may be quite t ight .
88 FRILLING or WHIPPING STITCH . A
species of loose overcasting which can be drawn up into
a fri ll . I t is usually worked on soft pli able material
such as mull—muslin or lawn . Begin from the right ,and use the left thumb to form a roll of the edge of the
material as the work proceeds . Work about half a
dozen stitches and then draw up the thread . The
sti tch is suitable for fril ls for embroidered muslin
cushion covers , small co llars , etc .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
92
EMB ROIDERY STITCHES
94
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
95
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
97 . HEMSTITCH .
- An ornamental stitch used in
drawn- thread work to secure the edges of a hem . The
stitch is in two parts . First take four or five threads
on the needle,then put the needle back
through folded material .
HERRING BONE STITCH—An ornamental
stitch used for borders and for hemming the edges of
'annel or material too thick to fold as an ordinary hem .
I t may be used as a Plain stitch or ornamented wi th a
Couching stitch . (See Couching. )
99
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
The same as above .
100
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
102
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
103
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
XXIXIXXlxXXMlxIXXIX29lIXIXIXIX
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
106
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
107
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
108
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
I I O
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
1 10 . LEAF STITCH .
—This similar Loop
stitch . I t may be used for small leaves,as a grounding
,
or for ornamental motifs , as in the i llust ration .
I I I
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
I I Z
EMBROIDERY ST ITCHES
1
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
1 13 . LONG AND SHORT CHAIN STITCH.
—Thisis a pleasing change from the ordinary Chain stitch .
may be arranged in a variety of forms according
the number and position of the short sti tches .
1 14 . LOOP STITCH .
—This stitch is used in making
very small leaves , and also as a powdering . To work ,
bring the needle t o the surface of the,
material , hold the
thread down under the left thumb,put the needle back
into the hole whence it came,and bring it out slightly
further on (according to the size of loop required) , sti l l
keeping the thread held down close to the material,
so that i t does not pass over the working thread which
is being drawn through . Put in the needle again
almost close to where i t came out last,but over the loop
thread . This makes a tiny sti tch which holds the loop
down .
1 15
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
1 16
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
118
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
119
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
[ 20
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
122
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
124
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
126
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
127
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
128
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
130
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
131
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
1 32
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
I 34
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
133 . POINT DE REPRISE .
— A stitch much used
to form bars 1n lace or embroidery,and often termed
under—and- over st itch . Two or more strands of
thread are passed across an open space and a thread
is darned intoI
these ,first over one and then under
another till'
the bar is completed . Any number of
strands may be used .
EMBROIDERY STlTCHES
136
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
1 38
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
137 . RAILWAY STITCH—The same as Loop
stitch,but with longer loops and sometimes an extra
line along the centre of the st itch . I t is suitable
small leaves 'owers as the daisy .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
140
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
142
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
143
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
144
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
146
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
147
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
150
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
152
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
1 54
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
153 . SATIN STITCH .
-A stitch like very wide
overcasting . A favourite stitch in embroidery to
cover surfaces with quickly worked sti tches . The
needle is simply passed across,in at one edge of the
design and out at the other . Leaves may be fi l l ed in
solidly with this sti tch .
154 . SEAMING STITCH .
—The stitch used to 'ointwo pieces of material together . The edges must first
be turned in to avoid fraying .
EMBRO IDERY STITCHES
156
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
158
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
157 . SLANTING ARROW STITCH .
—This is Arrow
stitch placed in a slanting di rection,and may be worked
in single or double lines .
158 . SMOCKING STITCH .
—Sometimes termed
Honeycomb stitch . The st itch itself i s a small back
stitch , but when applied to material arranged to fall
in gathers or diamond- shaped folds i t bears the above
name .
159
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
160
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
162
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
163
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
164
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
166
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
165 SQUARE GREEK STITCH—Used in old
'reek work . The stitch is a series of squares on the
right side , and two parallel lines connected by slanting
st itches on the wrong . To work , draw two parallel
lines , putting dots at even distances . Bring’
out the
needle at dot 2 , put into 1 and bring out at 3 , back into
1 and out at 4 , back into 2 and out at 4 , into 3 and out
at 5 , back to three and out at 6 ,back into 4 and out at 6,
into 5 and out at 7, into 5 again and out at 8 , and so on .
166. STAR—AND ARROW STITCH .
—This
bination is extremely pretty,either for borders or all
over patterns . The stars and arrows should be two
different colours .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
168
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
170
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
171
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
174
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
I 7S
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
176
EMBRO IDERY ST ITCHES
178
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
177 . TENT STITCH .
-A stitch m uch used in
tapestries , sometimes referred to as Peti t stitch .
i s a Half -cross stitch , worked one thread
178 . THORN STITCHfi- One the methods
making P icots . (See Picots .)
I 79
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
180
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
182
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
181 . TREBLE DOT STITCH .
-This is Dot sti tch
arranged for a grounding or powdering . 'roupsfour
,five
,dots similarly used .
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
184
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
185 . TRILBY STITCH—Insert the needle as for
French knots . Wind the thread six t imes round the
point of the needle , then six times round the head,then once round the point again . Hold the stitches
firm ly with the thumb , and draw the needle through .
The result is two opposite clusters knots with
plaited thread between .
186. TRINITY STITCH .
—Three stitches for
complete st itch . Useful for pow derings
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
188
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
190
EMBRO IDERY STITCHES
189 . UPRIGHT DIAMOND STITCH .
—This is use
ful for work on open canvas where threads may
readily counted .
191
EMBROIDERY ST ITCHES
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
194
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
194 . CHAIN STITCH—The
the line affords pleasing change from the ordinary
straight line of Chain stitch . The waves may be of
any width .
I 9S
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
196
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
198
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
198 . WHIP STITCH . Frilling st itch .
I 99
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
200
Univers ity of CaliforniaSOUTHERN RE'IONAL LIBRARY'ACILITY
405 Hilgard Avenue , Los Angeles , CA 90024-1388Return this m aterial to the lib raryfrom which it was borrowed .
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