how to make mohair yarn - cac-program.orgcac-program.org/files/fiber/manual-mohair.pdf · carded...
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How to Make Mohair Yarn
Steps in Making Mohair Yarnin Tajikistan
by Liba Brent
•
Step 1: Selecting Mohair Fleece for Processing
Thequalityoftheyarndependsonthequalityofthemohairfleece.Tomakeyarnforknittinggarments,itisimportanttoselectfinekidmohair.
Whatdoesqualitykidmohairlooklike?• itcomesfroma6-12montholdAngoragoat• itissofttotouch• ithasalowpercentageofkempfibers• ithaswelldefinedlocks• ithasluster• itisfreeofcontaminants
Step 2: Dehair fiber
Tajikmohairfleecescontainkempandmedulatedfibersandneedtobedehaired.Thebestdehairingmethodisbyusingalargecomb:
• separateindividuallocksfromthefleece• combeachlockstartingatthecutendandthenthetip• shakethelockaftercombingtoletloosekempfibersfallout• anaveragefleecewillyield1/3ofcombedmaterial,1/3ofcombedwaste,and1/3ofmattedorcontaminatedhairthatcannotbecombed
How to Make Mohair Yarn How to Make Mohair Yarn
Step 3: Scour fiber
Dehairedfiberneedstobescouredinhot,soapywateruntilitiscleanfromgrease,dirtandanyvegetablecontaminants:
• usemilddetergentsuchas“Fairy”liquidsoaporshampoo,1tspper2litersofwater• donotagitatefiberduringwashingtopreventmatting• rinsefiberincleanwater• donotchangewatertemperatureduringwashingandrinsing;fibershouldnotbemovedfromhottocoldwaterandviceversa
Step 4: Card fiber
Scouredfiberneedstobecardedusingacardingmachinesuitableformohair.InTajikistanmohaircanbecardedontheRussian-made“Orlovchanka”machine.Itisimportantthatthemachineisadjustedtoworkataslowspeedandthatitdoesnottearfibersduringcarding.
• cardonlyscouredfiber• loosenthelocksbyhandpriortocarding• slowlyfeedthefiberthroughthecardingmachine• repeat2times
How to Make Mohair Yarn How to Make Mohair Yarn
Step 5: Spin fiber
Cardedfiberisreadyforspinning.Thefibercanbespunusingaspindle,amanualspinningwheeloranelectricspinningmachine.Theelectricspinningmachineismoreproductiveandusefulwhenspinningyarnforcommercialpurposes.
Step 6: Maintain yarn qualityYarnqualitydirectlyaffectsitsvalueandcompetitivenessonthemarket.Yarnmadeforexporthastomaintainspecifiedqualitystandard:
• theyarnhastobeeven-eachskeinhastohaveanoptimaltwist;thenumberoftwistspercentimeterhastobesameorveryclosethroughouttheskein• theyarncannotbeoverspun(toomanytwists)• theyarncannotbeunderspun(toofewtwists)• eachspinnerhastomaintainconsistencyintwistbetweenskeins
How to Make Mohair Yarn How to Make Mohair Yarn
Step 7: Skein preparation
Theyarnhastobewashedinamilddetergentafterspinningandwoundontoawindertodry• windthedryyarnintoaskeinandtietheskeinintwoplaces• labeleachskeinwithweightandyardage• makesurethataskeinhasnomorethan2-3knots• maintainaconsistentratioofweight/yardageforallskeins(skeinsthatdiffercannotbeknittedintoaqualitygarment)
Enjoy Tajik Mohair!adventureyarns.com
How to Make Mohair Yarn
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