how chemical colours , hair straightening, re bonding damage hair

THE krya TEN POINT PROGRAMME TO HELP YOU REPAIR

CHEMICALLY DAMAGED HAIR

We have been speaking about how dosha imbalances trigger hair fall

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

We saw how pitta (heat) aggravation triggers one kind of hair fall

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Pitta (heat) aggravation also triggers premature greying, hair thinning and balding

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Today’s presentation talks about hair damage, roughness and hairfall caused by chemical treatments

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Human hair is made up of the following parts

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

The outer part of the hair which gives hair its gloss, shine and smoothness is made up of layered cuticles

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Layered cuticles give hair gloss,

shine and smoothness

The cuticles are arranged like the scales of a fish and are very prone to damage where individual scales can get ripped out

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Overlapping scale pattern

Frequent shampooing, lack of hair oiling, frequent styling changes and chemical treatments, UV exposure, all damage the cuticular structure

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair careHigh heat damage – serrated

cuticles

Prolonged heat – ripped out and missing cuticles

This will lead to gaps in the cuticles of your hair and fraying of the hair fibres like this

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Damaged frayed hair fibres

Cuticles and scales misaligned, standing in odd

positions

Hair centre shaft left unprotected because of

damaged cuticles

These gaps will make hair look dull, feel rough and break at the places where there is damage

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Hair literally hanging on by a thread – rough, unaligned, broken, coarse and weak

The way a chemical colour deposits on hair itself causes damage

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

To make a colour “permanent”, the colour has to be injected into the shaft of your hair.

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

To enter the hair shaft, the chemical colour firsts forcibly lifts up the hair cuticle and keeps it there for the 30 – 45 minutes it takes to complete

the hair colouring process

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Ouch! Forceful pulling of cuticles to allow the chemical colour to enter hair shaft

After the colouring, the cuticle is allowed to go back to its normal state. If you do this frequently, this severely damages the cuticle

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

To get an even colour on your hair, your hair is first bleached and turned white to give a chemical hair colour an even canvas to work on

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

This forcible cuticle lifting + hair bleaching makes hair unhealthy, dry and straw like

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Persistent colouring makes hair unable to absorb colour as the cuticle can no longer be lifted and set back properly

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

As frequent hair colouring damages the cuticles, the hair is no longer able to allow colour

application

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

At this stage, your salon stylist will tell you that your hair is too damaged for hair colour and tell you to go for deep conditioning / hair spa /

keratin treatment

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Why is hair straightening and permingso harmful to hair ?

Keratin (the protein hair is made of) has a special bond called the di-sulphide bond which gives it its natural texture and strength

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Keratin (the protein that makes up hair) is strong because of the disulphide bond. This gives hair its strength and elasticity and allows

you to plait it, braid it and style it without breaking it

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Healthy hair will not break if you pull it, brush it, twist it, comb it, tie it up, or wash it. That is because of the di-sulphide bond

Healthy hair is strong enough to withstand “hammer force”. This means that using a hammer with force on hair will not break it !

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Why do flat irons damage hair ?

To make wavy or curly hair straight, a flat iron heats your hair between 300 – 500 deg Farenheit (166 deg C – 260 deg C)

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

This heat breaks the di-sulphide bonds. As the hair cools, it re-forms the di-sulphide bonds at new places to hold the hair in place

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Every time you iron your hair, you are breaking the natural di-sulphide bonds and forcing hair to form it in a new place. So you have broken

down the original strength and elasticity of your hair.

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

So your hair will be weak, prone to breakage and split ends, and you will easily lose hair everytime you pull it, comb it, tug it or wash it

Why is re-bonding, chemical hair straightening and perming even worse on

hair?

To alter hair’s texture permanently, the di-sulphide bonds have to be broken much more aggressively

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

So these treatments use strong alkaline solutions (pH above 13) like Guanidine hydroxide and Ammonium thioglycolate on hair

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

The natural pH of scalp and hair is 5.5which is mildly acidic

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

These alkaline solutions are so powerful at breaking the di-sulphide bonds that they have to be used only for a short time. Any longer and

your hair itself will dissolve and break off

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

After breaking the disulphide bonds chemically, the hair is then either curled or straightened with a flat iron

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Now to neutralise the strong Alkaline solution, sodium peroxide is poured on the hair. This stops further breakage of the di-sodium bonds.

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

If using heat alone was disastrous on hair, this series of chemical treatments on hair is disaster times

Infinity!

An alarming trend – hair re-bonding and smoothening is now being repackaged as

damage repair treatment!

Cysteine treatments, re-bonding and hair smoothening are now the rage

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

People are being lied to saying that these chemical treatments will “repair” hair that has been damaged, ironically at the same parlour

A short history of the Brazilian Blowout

The Brazilian was started in 2003 by stylists to semi-permanently straighten hair

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

This was attempted because of the new beauty ideal of Asian style, super straight, super glossy hair

(even if you were not asian and did not have naturally straight hair)

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

The Brazilian uses a mixture of Formaldehyde (1.5 – 5%), silicones and additives to straighten hair. Formaldehyde is used to break the

di-sulphide bonds in the hair .

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

After this, hair is heated at 450 deg Farenheit, ironed and straightened

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

And then, to top it all, Hydrogen peroxide is poured on hair to neutralise Formaldehyde

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Formaldehyde is a chemical used to embalm and preserve bodies in the morgue .

It causes contact dermatitis .

The fumes released in the process of straightening irritate the eyes.

It can trigger cluster headaches, grogginess and dry mouth.

Plus , Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen.

Why do toxic treatments like this make hair look temporarily shiny

and glossy?

After pouring formaldehyde, and breaking the disulphide bonds, hair is ironed. In the ironing stage, hair is coated with silicones and then

ironed. This cements silicones onto the hair

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

The silicones form a smooth plastic like layer on hair. Light reflects off this artificial layer making hair look glossy and shiny

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

The cysteine ‘treatment’ myth

Because of the high levels of formaldehyde in the Brazilian treatment, people looked for less poisonous options to straighten hair

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

In 2011, carbocysteine (S-carboxymethyl-1cysteine) was manufactured. This formed the basis of the new cysteine treatment for hair

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Carbocysteine (S-carboxymethyl-1cysteine) works the same way as the formaldehyde does on hair. It breaks the di-sulphide bonds in hair

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

High heat is then used on hair and it is ironed.

Glycoxylic acid is then applied on hair to neutralize carbocysteine and then rinsed off.

Old wine, new bottle?

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Cysteine treatment is now branded as a deeply hydrating, deeply repairing treatment

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Permanent hair weakening

Side effect of chemical straightening , re-bonding and perming

All chemical straightening treatments convert 35% of your hair’s natural cysteine amino acid to lanthionine

Lanthionine contains one sulphur atom less than your natural cysteinemolecule

This means chemically altered hair is naturally weaker and is prone to hair breakage and hair fall

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Chemical hair treatments also remove the natural layer of fatty acids on the cuticle of hair

This natural fatty acid layer is a natural water repellant layer on hair. It helps hair retains its shape and elasticity

Removing this layer means that hair is porous, breaks easily and is coarse and frizzy and unhealthy

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

Stop the hair damage now!

Chemical treatments will make your hair worse

Your hair will fall, grow less, break easily and look dreadful

krya’s TEN POINT PROGRAMME

FOR CHEMICALLY DAMAGED HAIR

TO IMPROVE HAIR TEXTURE, INCREASE

ELASTICITY, STRENGTH AND GROWTH

Chemically damaged hair is extremely fragile

It is very weak, lacks elasticity and strength

1. Treat damaged hair gently. Do not use a brush. Do not pull, tug, use pins or make complex hairstyles

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

2. Wash damaged hair less. Preferably once a week. Excessive washing will increase hair breakage .

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

3. Do not heat hair in any way – this will damage it further. Stay away from blow drying, ironing, saunas, and any heat based treatment on hair

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

4. Oil damaged hair generously with the right oil. Always oil before washing damaged hair to protect it.

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

5. Use an extremely gentle, natural hairwash. A synthetic shampoo will dry out damaged hair very fast.

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

6. Apply natural nutrient rich masks on hair to repair damage, repair cuticles and stimulate the scalp.

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

7. Eat high quality, dosha balanced food. The right food will help grow new, strong hair

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

8. Do a self abhyanga twice a week with the right oil – this helps brings down dryness and balances doshas for good hair growth

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

9. Stay away from any further chemical treatments

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

10. Smile and stay positive – hair responds to good treatment. And yours will too .

krya : authentic ayurvedic skin and hair care

To re-cap

1. Treat chemically damaged hair delicately ,like someone recovering from a long illness. • Do not comb or brush harshly• Do not pull at or tug hair• Do not twist it, over braid it, use pins or try complex hairstyles until its strength

recovers2. Wash not more than once or twice a week

• Use cool water to wash hair. • Towel dry very gently. • Do not rub scalp or tug hair too much while washing

3. Do not use any manner of heat on hair• Do not blow dry• Do not use hot water for washing hair• Do not do treatments like steaming for your hair

4. Oil hair generously with the right oil• Oil at night to stimulate scalp to grow hair• Oil before washing to coat hair and protect it from water and washing• Ensure your oil has no hair damaging ingredients like mineral oil, and other

chemicals

To re-cap

5. Use a very gentle completely natural hair wash. • A synthetic shampoo will quickly dry chemically damaged hair further• As a rule, oil hair and scalp before washing

6. Apply nutrient rich hair masks on hair and scalp frequently to replenish hair health• Stick to natural herbs and nourishment filled products and avoid any chemical

masks, hair spa treatments and other dubious “repair” products• Remember, if you can eat it, you can put it on your hair

7. Eat high quality, nutrition rich, dosha balanced foods. Include rasayana herbs in your diet• Amla, Brahmi are excellent regenerative and restorative herbs that can be added

to the diet8. Do an abhyanga twice a week

• This restores the body to a state of health and balance• Very useful in correcting dryness and coarseness of hair

9. Stay away from any further chemical treatments• Synthetic colouring, ironing and any texture alterations will severely damage hair

and retard hair growth and health10. Stay positive. Hair responds quickly to good treatment

• We have consistently seen even very badly damaged hair responding to sweeping changes in treatment and products

• The body responds quickly to good treatment. It is in its nature to regain health

Here are krya’s hair products for chemically damaged hair

1. Krya Damage repair Hair Oil with Marigold & Rosemary with regular use • Improves hair texture and natural gloss and smoothness• Improves hair elasticity and strength• Cools scalp and brain• Improves healthy hair growth

2. Krya Damage repair Hair wash with Oatgrass & Chamomile with regular use• Cleanses extremely delicately • Does not tamper with the natural sebum function of the hair• Is gentle on damaged cuticles and does not stress them further or damage

them

3. Krya Damage Repair Hair Mask with Marigold & Moringa on regular use• Improves hair strength• Clarifies scalp build up• Improves hair elasticity and strength• Nourishes hair with health restoring herbs

4. Krya Revitalising Damage repair hair system (all above products at a special price)

Here are krya’s hair products for chemically damaged hair

If you have severe hair loss due to very frequent chemical treatments and are seeing very poor hair growth, this Hair Oil should also be included in your regimen

Krya Intense Hair Oil with Ratanjot & Ashwagandha• A highly concentrated hair oil meant for difficult cases with poor hair growth• Made using powerful growth promoting Ayurvedic hair herbs• Should be used for night scalp oiling along with the Krya Damage repair hair oil to

promote healthy hair growth

Here are krya’s dosha balancing abhyanga products (for your twice a week Abhyanga)

1. Krya Abhyanga Skin Oil with Vacha & Ashwagandha with regular use • Balances all 3 doshas• Improves the body’s strength, energy and vitality• Improves skin tone, reduces aches and pains

2. Krya Women’s Ubtan with Lotus Leaf & Lodhra with regular use• Cleanses and removes excess Abhyanga oil without drying out skin• Evens out skin tone and corrects small blemishes• Imparts pleasant aroma and freshness through the day

3. Krya Men’s Ubtan with Vetiver & Van Tulsi on regular use• Cleanses and removes excess Abhyanga oil without drying out skin• Refreshes and cleanses skin thoroughly and cools excess pitta• Imparts pleasant aroma and freshness through the day

4. Krya Women’s Abhyanga System (Krya Women’s Ubtan + Krya Abhyanga Oil at a special price)

5. Krya Men’s Abhyanga System *Krya Men’s Ubtan + Krya Abhyanga Oil at a special price)

About kryaKrya is an independent, young Indian consumer products company founded on the principles of environmental sustainability, and providing safe, toxin free and synthetics-free skin, hair and home care products. All our products are made using organically grown or forest collected grains, lentils, herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers and cold pressed, organic oils.

Every single product is made after following stringent standards of sorting, cleaning, drying at appropriate temperatures, processing each herb individually. We use time honored, gentle Ayurvedic methods of processing that allow us to extract teh maximum amount of nutrients into our products.

We follow a people positive philosophy at krya. This applies to every single thing we do, from souring our high quality raw materials using frair trade principles, to our HR policies within the company.

Every single krya product is carefully manufactured, is vegan and cruelty free, uses only whole natural raw materials, uses no synthetics to unnaturally extend life or anything else, and is safe, toxin-free and kind on the planet.

Read more about us and our work here – www.krya.in