fibre to garments overview
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AN OVERVIEW OF PROCESSES INVOLVED IN THE CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO GARMENTS
Prof. R. B. CHAVAN
Former Professor, I I T Delhi,
Consultant,
Mahatma Gandhi Inst. of Rural Ind.
Wardha
E-mail rbchavan@hotmail.com
CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES
Natural Synthetic Regenerated
Vegetable Animal
Polyester Viscose Rayon
Cotton Silk Nylon
Jute Wool Acrylic
Natural fibres
• Cellulosic fibres1. Seed hairs: Cotton, Kapok
2. Bast fibres: Flax, Ramie, Hemp, Jute, Sunn, Kenaf
3. Leaf fibres: Abaca, Pineapple, Sisal (Agave), Palm
4. Fruit: Coir
Mineral: Asbestos
Natural Protein fibres
• Animal hair fibres• Wool (Sheep)• Speciality hair fibres: Alpaca, Camel, Cashmere, Mohair
(Angora Goat), • Fur fibres: Mink, Muskrat, Rabbit
• Animal Secretion• Silk fibre: Mulberry, Tussar, Moga, Erie• Spider silk
Regenerated natural fibres
• Rayon • Cuprammonium• Viscose: Regular, high tenacity, high wet modulus,
hollow fibres, polynosic, lyocell • Acetate: Secondary acetate, Tri acetate• Regenerated Protein: Casein, Zein, Peanut, Soyabean• Miscellaneous: alginate
Synthetic fibres
• Condensation polymers• Polyamide• Nylon 6, 66, 11• Aramide : Quiana, Kevlar, Nomex• Polyester• Aromatic: Polyethylene terephthalate (PET)• Aliphatic Poly lactic acid (PLA)• Addition polymers• Acrylic, modacrylic• Olehene fibres: Polyethylene, polypropelene• Saran• Vinal• Vinyon
Fibre Yarn Fabric
Garment or other ready made forms.
STEPS INVOLVED IN CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO GARMENT
MAJOR STEPS
TYPES OF YARN
1. STAPLE YARN
2. FILAMENT YARN
STAPLE YARN
COTTON
WOOL
JUTE
ACRYLIC
CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO YARN
FILAMENT YARN
SILK
SYNTHETIC
DIRECT YARN PRODUCTION FROM RAW MATERIALS
CONVERSION OF FIBRE TO STAPLE YARN
EXAMPLE COTTON
PRE-SPINNING PROCESSES
SPINNING PROCESS
PRE-SPINNING PROCESSES
GINNING
BALE FORMATION
TRANSPORTATION TO TEXTILE MILLS
OPENING
LAP MAKING
CARDING
SLIVER MAKING
ROVING MAKING
PRINCIPLE
STRETCHING OF FIBRES
ARRANGING THE FIBRES PARALLEL TO EACH OTHER
PR-SPINNING MACHINES
GINNING
BALE MAKING
OPENER
LAP MAKING
CARDING
DRAWING FRAME
SPEED FRAME SPINNING MACHINES
SMALL SCALE SPINNING
CHARKHA
LARGE SCALE SPINNING
RING SPINNING MACHINE
WEAVING
CONVERSION OF YARN TO FABRIC
INTERLACEMENT OF YARN IN SPECIFIC WAY IN TWO DIRECTION (WIDTH WISE AND LENGTHWISE)
LENGTH DIRECTION WARP
WIDTH DIRECTION WEFT
WEAVING MACHINES
LOOMS
MANUALLY OPERATED LOOMS
ELECTRICALY OPERATED LOOMS
MANUAL LOOMS KNOWN AS HANDLOOMS
FRAME LOOM
PIT LOOM
SEMI-AUTOMATIC LOOMS
ELECTRICALLY OPERATED LOOMS
KNOWN AS POWER LOOMS
DIFFERENT TYPES LIKE
SIMPLE POWERLOOM
AIR JET LOOM
RAPIER LOOM
WATER JET LOOM
LOOMS FOR PRODUCING DESIGNED FABRIC
DOBBY LOOM
JACQUARD LOOM
AVAILABLE BOTH IN MANUAL AND ELECTRICAL CATEGORY
KNITTING
INTERLACEMENT OF SINGLE YARN
WARP DIRECTION: WARP KNITTING
WEFT DIRECTION: WEFT KNITTING
MACHINES
WARP KNITTING MACHINES
WEFT KNITTING MACHINES
CHEMICAL PROCESSING
VALUE ADDITION THROUGH
PREPARATORY PROCESSES
DYEING
PRINTING
FINISHING
PREPARATORY PROCESSES
DESIZING
SCOURING
BLEACHING
MERCERIZATION
Purpose
To removeNatural and added impuritiesTo improve the appearance of fabricTo impart certain desirable propertiesTo make it suitable for subsequent processes like dyeing, printing finishing
CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN
YARN FORM
FABRIC FORM
DYEING
TO IMPART COLOUR UNIFORMLY
ALONG THE LENGTH AND WIDTH OF FABRIC
UNIFORMLY ON THE BACK AND FACE OF FABRIC
DYEING CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN
FIBRE FORM
YARN FORM
FABIC FORM
MACHINES USED FOR DYEING
FIBRE DYEING MACHINES
YARN DYEING MACHINES
HANK DYEING MACHINES
CHEESE DYEING MACHINES
CONE DYEING MACHINES
FABRIC DYEING
JIGGER DYEING MACHINES
PADDING MANGLE
WINCH DYEING MACHINE
JET DYEING MACHINES
PRINTING
DYEING IN THE LOCALIZED FORM
APPLICATION OF COLOUR IN THE FORM OF DESIGN
ONE OR MORE THAN ONE COLOUR CAN BE APPLIED IN THE DESIGN
KNOWN AS
SINGLE COLOUR DESIGN
MULTI COLOUR DESIGN
DIFFERNCE BETWEEN DYEING AND PRINTING
DYEING• UNIFORM COLOURATION ALONG LENGTH AND
WIDTH OF FABRIC• USUALLY SINGLE COLOUR IS POSSIBLE.• NO DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR BETWEEN FRONT
AND BACK SIDE OF FABRIC• AQUEOUS DYEING MEDIUM OF LOW VISCOSITY• DYEING IN BATCHWISE, CONTINUOUS OR SEMI-
CONTINUOUS METHOD.• FABRIC DYEING IN OPEN WIDTH OR ROPE FORM.• DYEING IN FIBRE, YARN, FABRIC, GARMENT FORM
PRINTING• LOCALLIZED DYEING• COLOUR IS APPLIED LOCALLY IN THE FORM OF
DESIGN/PATTERN• LOW VISCOSITY MEDIUM WOULD SPREAD THE
COLOUR BY CAPILLARY ACTION, DOES NOT MAINTAIN THE SHARPNESS OF THE DESIGN.
• AQUEOUS MEDIUM OF HIGH VISCOSITY, PREVENT THE COLOUR SPREADING.
• FABRIC PRINTING IN OPEN WIDTH FORM ONLY• FABRIC PRINTING IS MOST COMMON
COMPARED TO YARN AND GARMENT PRINTING, EXCEPTION T-SHIRT PRINTING
PRINTING STUDYSTYLES OF PRINTING
DIRECT STYLE• PRINTING OF SINGLE OR MULTICOLOURS ON
WHITE OR PALE SHADE DYED FABRICRESIST STYLE• PREVENTION OF COLOUR FIXATION AT THE
PRINTED PORTION• WHITE RESIST: WHITE PRINT AGAINST COLOURED
BACKGROUND• COLOUR RESIST: COLOUR PRINT AGAINST
COLOURE BACKGROUNDDISCHARGE STYLE• DESTRUCTION OF COLOUR AT THE PRINTED
PORTION• WHITE DISCHARGE• COLOUR DISCHARGE
METHODS OF PRINTING• BLOCK PRINTING• STENCIL PRINTING• ROLLER PRINTING
• SCREEN PRINTING• MANUAL SCREEN PRINTING• AUTOMATIC FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING• ROTORY SCREEN PRINTING• TRANSFER PRINTING• XEROX PRINTING• INKJET/DIGITAL PRINTING• PRINT LIKE EFFECT• TIE-DYE AND BATIK
FINISHING
PURPOSE
TO IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF FABRIC
FEEL OF FABRIC
IMPART CERTAIN DESIRABLE PROPERTIES TO FABRIC LIKE
WATER REPELLENT PROPERTY FOR RAIN COATS
WRINKLE FREE PROPERTY TO SHIRTING AND TRAUSER FABRIC
FLAME RETARDANT PROPERTY TO CURTAINS
TREATMENT CARRIED OUT MAINLY IN THE FABRIC FORM
CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN THE GARMENT FORM ALSO
TYPES OF FINISHING AGENTS
1. WATER REPELLENT FINISH
2. FLAME REATARDANT FINISH
3. WRINKLE FREE FINISHES
4. ANTISTATIC FINISH
5. SOIL REPRELLENT FINISH
6. ANTI-BACTERIAL FINSIH
• WEAVING USING COLOURED YARN
• KNITTING USING COLOURED YARN
• APPLIQUE OR PATCH WORK
• EMBROIDERY
OTHER METHODS FOR PRINT LIKE EFFECTS
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