development of textile recycling chain in finland
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VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland
Development of Textile recycling chain in FinlandHeikkilä, Pirjo; Harlin, Ali; Knuutila, Henna; Ilmonen, Sini
Published: 07/06/2017
Document VersionPublisher's final version
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Please cite the original version:Heikkilä, P., Harlin, A., Knuutila, H., & Ilmonen, S. (2017). Development of Textile recycling chain in Finland:Insights of TELAKETJU project. 6th International Fibre Recycling Symposium, Manchester, United Kingdom.
Download date: 09. Jan. 2022
VTT TECHNICAL RESEARCH CENTRE OF FINLAND LTD
Development of Textile recyclingchain in Finland – insights ofTELAKETJU project6th International Textile Recycling Conference, Manchester 07.06.2017Prof. Ali Harlin, Pirjo Heikkilä, VTT Technical research centre of Finland Ltd,Henna Knuutila, Sini Ilmonen / Turku University of Applied Sciences
WEAR. RECYCLE. REPEATWEAR. RECYCLE. REPEAT
7.6.2017 THE RELOOPING FASHION 3
Re-producing old cotton clothing into new material has been very challenging, because the worn-out fibers aretoo short to be spun into new thread. New cotton also needs to be added to each batch, making 100% post-consumer-waste textiles an impossible dream.
The Relooping
Fashion Initiative
The Relooping
Fashion Initiative
Cellulose Carbamate technology in EU Trash to Cash
§ EU funded project Trash to Cash aims to utilise the zero-value wastetextiles and fibres with design-driven technologies to create high qualityproducts.§ Coordinator of the project is SP Technical Research Institute of Sweden
This project has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon 2020research and innovation programme under grant agreement No 646226
§ VTT’s efforts include:§ chemical pretreatment of cotton and CO/PES waste materials
to remove impurities and to decrease DP (cellulose)§ carbamation of the pretreated materials§ dissolution of CCA and preparation of regenerated fibres§ dissolution of carbamated CO/PES blends and separation of
the PES fraction for purification, characterisation and reuse
YM project
1.2.2017 - 31.12.2018
Main coordinator LSJH
Total budget 205 000 €
and other investors
Consists of three experiments
TEKES project
1.4.2017 - 30.9.2018
Main coordinator VTT
Companies’ own projects
Public part
Total budget 2,3M €
Consists of six work packets
Additionally, includes companies and organisations participating with work, networks, material useand communication. Also international cooperation.
Kuva Inka Mäkiö, Poistotekstiiliketjun roolikartta ja johdonmukainen viestintä
TEXTILE FORREUSE
ENERGYREUSE
REUSE AS ANEW MATERIAL
MATERIALRECYCLE
MECHANICALRECYCLE
CHEMICALRECYCLE
NEWMATERIAL
NEWPRODUCT
CONVERTING
HUBB
HUBA
HUBC
Added Value Export
Local Products
Common standardsand quality tools
MACHANICALRECYCLE
CHEMICALRECYCLE
FINNISH MODEL
07/06/2017 12
Bioruukki Pilot CentreSpeed to scale-up of bio and circular economy innovations
§ A new piloting ecosystem forprocess industry scale-up anddemonstrations.§ A former printing plant transformed
to world scale R&D centre.§ 8000 m2, room for several pilot
units and laboratories.§ Located close to Otaniemi campus.
THERMOCHEMICALCONVERSION PLATFORM
Started Q3/2015
BIOMASS PROCESSINGPLATFORMStarts 2017
ENERGY STORAGEPLATFORMStarts 2016
GREEN CHEMISTRYPLATFORM
Starts at Bioruukki 2018
Pilot scale wet spinning machine will be transferredfrom Valkeakoski to Bioruukki during spring 2017.Capacity of the line is 60 kg fibres /day.
1407/06/2017
Sustainable CCA technology
§ VTT has developed technology for 20+ years§ Finland is the leading country globally on
cellulose chemistry§ Largest scale pilot and very close to
industrial process productivity§ Five major competitive edges:
§ Up to 40% more economical
§ Sustainability (infinite loop, ecological chemistry,water utilization, etc.)
§ Fastest scale-up as can utilize simultaneouslyseveral raw materials
§ Minimized CAPEX as technology can be added toany existing pulp or viscose fiber plant
§ New business opportunities for the customers
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1800
2000
Lenzing viscosefiber
IFC virgin pulpproduct
IFC textilewaste product'
OPEX and margins
Raw material Process Margin
1507/06/2017
The technology enables manufacturing fiberequal to Viscose but without CS2
§ Technical properties are equalto Viscose§ Touch and feel is more
cottonish and colouring featureis better than Viscose has§ Applying for the new trade
name to differentiate fromViscose as the process isdifferent
Property 1 Reference:Viscosevalues
(market qty)
2 Infinitedfiber made ofvirgindissolvingpulp
3 Infinitedfiber made ofrecycled paper
4 Infinitedfiber made oftextile waste
Rawmaterial
DissolvingPulp (wood)
DissolvingPulp (wood)
Recycled paper Textile waste(cotton rich)
Fineness,dtex 1,7 2,0⁵ 2,0⁵ 2,0⁵
Tenacity(cond.),cN/tex(ASTM1446D)
26 26 25 22
Elongation(cond.), % 12-14 12 13 16
¹Tenacity is expressed in relative to the fineness (1 tex = 1 gram per 1000 metres). Figures for tenacity are based on both fiber fineness (tex) and cross-sectional area of thesample ²Conditioned according to technical standard ASTM 1446D (65% relative humidity and temperature of 20°C)⁵VTT machinery has only this fineness option as per today. According to needs the fineness can be adjusted between 1,3-2,6
07/06/2017 16
Foam-laid nonwovens from cellulosic fibresSemi pilot scale - Hydroentanglement
§ Brilliant formation in the case of long fibres, even though high formingconsistency applied
§ Mechanical bonding instead of chemical bondingà aspect for sustainability§ Widening of raw material combinationsà process simplifying
After drying
Hydroentangled
Mechanical bonding of foam laid nonwovens (MECBO), VTT internal project, 2014
24 mm
SUORA
07/06/2017 18
Conclusions
Environmnetaly sustainable and safe recycled textile:.§ Efficent production methods
§ Safe chemistry§ Less losses
§ High performance products§ Properties that can be adjusted§ Startups
§ Demonstration factories§ Attracting international investments
§ Novel businesses§ Technology§ Machinery§ Applied materials
From R&D projects to pilots and startup
The Relooping
Fashion Initiative
The Relooping
Fashion Initiative
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