denim by weave
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www.ngtex.in
“ Not just fabric- it is an attitude, culture and lifestyle”
Denim by weave
Weave is the method or
process of interlacing
two yarn or similar
material so that they
cross each other at
right angle to produce
woven fabric .
In subsequent slides we
present various types of
weaves used in denim
fabric.
Traditional Denim weave
Traditionally, denim
fabric is 3/1 warp-faced
twill fabric made from a
yarn-dyed warp and an
undyed weft yarn and
the warp yarn is indigo-
dyed. Over the years,
many different denim
fabric weaves have been
used, including Dobby,
Jacquard, cross
hatch depending upon
the performance,
appearance and feel
requirement of end
product.
Three by one weave
3x1 weave refers to the number of weft
threads per warp thread, in which three
threads cross every one (hence, 3×1
weave).Denims that have heavier weights
(over 10.5 Oz / square yard) are 3×1
weaves, especially compared to denim
with a 2×1 weave (under 10.5 Oz /square
yard).
LHT-Left hand Twill
Left Hand Twill weave runs diagonally
from right to left, which produces denim
that is a bit softer than RHT. Left hand
twill are also more desirable due to the
strength and durability. Right hand twills
have the tendency to stretch out and stay
baggy until washed. However washing in
a sense resets the fabric.
Two types of twill weave in Denim
RHT -Right Hand Twill
RHT refers to the direction in which
denim is woven. The opposite of Left Hand
twill, this weave is much more common,
as almost all jeans are woven with right
hand twill. The weft (filler) threads is
visible in upward-right diagonal lines on
right-hand twill jeans. This type of twill
weave runs diagonally from left to right,
which produces flatter and smoother
denim.
One by one Chambray Denim
Chambray is a plain (1 x 1 weave) woven
denim fabric often woven in checkered or
striped patterns.
Application-Chambray Denim
It is usually made from
blue and white yarns
and used to make shirts,
dresses and children’s
clothing
Two by one weave
2x1 Weave refers to the number of weft
threads per warp thread. Most denims
have been traditionally 3x1 weaves,
though lighter weight denims (under10.5
ounces/square yard) often use the 2x1
configuration.
Satin Denim
Satin is a basic weave construction
with the interlacing of the threads so
arranged that the face of the cloth is
covered with warp yarn or filling yarn
and no twill line is distinguishable. The
satin weave denim is distinguished by
its lustrous, or 'silky', appearance.
Broken Twill Denim weave
In Broken twill denim Instead of the twill
running left or right, broken twill contains
no distinct direction and instead
alternates right and left the end
effect resembles a random zig-zag pattern.
Did you know?
Broken twill is bit
streaky and hairy but
has a soft hand feeling &
likable structure and is
selected if same is
desired in finish
product
Chinoo denim
Chinoo is tightly woven 2 ply right hand
3×1 combed cotton twill fabric. Chinoo is
high in demand and featured in upcoming
season by renowned fashion houses
Cross hatch Denim
Cross hatch is a unique type of denim that
shows a square grid-like pattern in the
weave. It is created by mixing uneven
yarns in both the weft and a warp
direction. It is a more rare type of denim
and develops a unique crisscrossed
pattern as it fades and is available in
below mentioned combination of weight,
width, colors etc
Dobby Denim
Dobby is a weaving method in which
the warp threads are raised and
lowered throughout the weaving
process to form small geometric
figures. Dobby denim fabrics are used
mainly for high fashion garments, top
wear and home décor and are
distinguishable by their unique
textures.
Did you know?
Dobby denim fabric is
also used many a times
for appliqué work on
garment to enhance
fashion appeal of base
garment.
Denim Fabric - Herringbone weave
Herringbone weave, also known as
“chevron weave”, has a distinctive V
shaped pattern that resembles a herring’s
skeleton.
Herringbone weave on denim garments
Though generally used
in wool fabrics,
especially tweed,
Herringbone denim is
in trend and used for
various apparel and
non apparel
application.
Jacquard Denim
With jacquard any combination of weaves
and pattern is possible since each warp is
individually controlled with each pick
passage. Due to its attractive and
decorative appeal it is used in high
fashion garments as well as furnishing
and upholstery.
Matt weave
The simplest of all patterns is the plain
weave. Each
weft yarn goes alternately over and under
one warp
yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over
and
under each weft yarn.
Matt Weave or Basket weave: here, two
or more
yarns are used in both the warp and filling
direction. These groups of yarns are woven
as one,
producing a basket effect.
Matt Weave Denim
While traditionally made
of cotton,
today’s oxford cloth is
also frequently made of
a synthetic blend. It is a
sturdy, comfortable
fabric and is relatively
inexpensive to
manufacture.
Selvedge DenimInitially known as ‘self-edge’,
the selvedge is the narrow, tightly
woven band on both edges of
the denim fabric. A selvedge end
prevents the edge of the denim from
unraveling and shows a clean,
finished look. Selvedge color varies
with the brand and producer.
Selvedge denim are made out of
denim woven on an old-style shuttle
loom with a continuous weft and a
narrow width (usually around thirty
inches).Today, selvage denim is
valued for its irregularities and
character, and is typically more
expensive than regular denim.
Application –Selvedge Denim
Selvedges in jeans
usually denote high
quality denim, albeit
there are many factors
to consider with denim
quality.
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