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sjgardenadvice.co.uk
HORTICULTURAL REPORT ON PROPOSALS FOR
LOVECLOUGH COMMUNITY GARDEN FACILITY
BY
SUE JEFFRIES
PROFESSIONAL GARDEN ADVISER AND TRAINER
FDSc, MBA, PGCE, QTLS
SEPTEMBER 2013
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CONTENTS
Page
1. Location Issues 3
1.1. Exposure
1.2. Aspect
1.3. Soil
2. Potential for Specialist Areas 8
2.1. Forest School and/or Forest Garden
2.2. Community Eating/Social Area
2.3. Sensory Garden
3. Structures 10
3.1. Undercover Growing Facilities
3.2. Community Educational Building
3.3. Fencing
4. Layout of the Community Gardening Facility 13
5. Management of the Facility 14
6. Further Information 15
7. Plan of Suggested alterations to the layout of 16
the Community Garden Facility
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REPORT
1. LOCATION
1.1 EXPOSURE
1.1 a) Issues
The proposed site is located on the side of a valley with no significant shelter
from surrounding woodlands or existing buildings. The prevailing wind in this
area is usually from the West and will be likely to be channelled South
Westerly through the valley from the direction of Rawtenstall up the valley
towards Burnley. This creates an exposed and windy location for growing
crops and gardening in general.
The specific problems of such an exposed location are as follows;
Cold air temperatures
Wind burn on plants in the winter
Poor conditions for fruit trees
Snapped stems on tall plants
Colder soil which takes longer to warm up in the spring – resulting in a
very short growing season for crops that are grown outside
Unpleasantly cold and windy condition for growers and gardeners
during the winter and early spring
Dry soil in the summer
Erosion of dry, loose soil
Nowhere sheltered to sit and admire the plants and trees
Fewer winged insects, such aphids/greenfly, which find it harder to
shelter in windy conditions
Good air circulation, which can reduce fungal infections on plants.
1.1 b) Action Needed
There are two key actions that could be taken to offset the effect of this
exposed location; establishing wind breaks (to filter the wind and reduce its
speed) and using undercover growing areas (to cut out the drying and
cooling effect of the wind and trap the heat of the sun.)
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Wind breaks
The most effective windbreaks are those that filter the wind, rather than block
it totally. Therefore, hedges and trees will work better than fences or walls.
Filtering wind breaks will provide shelter on the ground for three times their
height, see the diagram below
http://weathersolve.com/how-windbreaks-work/
Therefore, if a tall hedge or narrow belt of trees up to just 3000mm (10 feet)
tall is planted at the boundary of the growing area and at 9000mm (30 foot)
intervals this will dramatically reduce the wind speed on the site. The result will
be warmer air and soil, creating better growing conditions for plants and far
more pleasant conditions for the gardeners themselves. Although the
windbreaks will take up some land, they will not reduce the overall
productivity of the land as that remaining will provide more crops.
The Community Garden would need a wind break planting at its boundaries
with the Allotments and the Orchard and then another planting half way
across the area (see the Plan in Section 7, page 16).
I would also advise that windbreaks are established to the South and West to
protect the Orchard before it is planted, and similarly for the general
Allotment Development.
Plants suitable for windbreaks
Willow and hazel will root quickly and can be managed relatively easily by
coppicing to reduce their height, if necessary. They also provide a by-
product of stems for weaving or using as supports for climbing plants through
the coppicing process. Maintenance should be done annually with simple
pruning saws and loppers and does not need specialist equipment such as
chainsaws or hedge trimmers.
Hawthorn will also grow well and tolerate exposed conditions, but will require
annual trimming with specialist equipment and is very thorny, which can be a
problem where young children are working.
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Undercover Growing Areas
By eliminating the cooling and drying effect of the wind, undercover growing
areas will greatly increase the growth of crops and provide a comfortable
gardening area for most of the year. Polytunnels can provide a suitable
undercover area without the potential danger of broken glass if greenhouses
are used. However, two key issues need to be considered it polytunnels are
used.
Location - Polytunnels do need to have good air circulation during the
warmer months of the year and so should be positioned so the prevailing
wind can naturally flow through its doors/side openings. If the polytunnel is
located near a windbreak it should be thinned to allow the continuous flow of
air. A polytunnel with sides that can be rolled up during the day would
greatly improve the growing conditions in the summer.
Irrigation – There must be adequate facilities for watering crops inside the
polytunnel all year round. A standpipe attached to porous pipe is ideal for
ground-level crops. Whereas, seeds or plants in trays on benches or staging
will need an overhead watering system, capillary matting and/or manual
watering using a hose.
More details on the Undercover Growing Area are included below in section
3.1, page 10.
1.2 ASPECT
1.2 a) Issues
The site is North-West facing on the side of the valley and is not
overshadowed by buildings or woodland. This provides a good location for
growing, with plenty of sunlight and excellent air circulation.
1.2 b) Action Needed
Overall this is a good aspect for growing and no specific action is required.
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1.3 SOIL
1.3 a) Issues
All the soil formations in the UK have been mapped by the National Soil
Resources Institute and can be checked by postcode area online. The soil
formation for this site is characterised as ‘Peaty, slowly permeable wet, very
acid upland soil with a peaty surface’ it has low fertility and drains poorly.
https://www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes/
Having attempted to grow fruit and vegetables myself over three years on a
very similar site at a local school in Rawtenstall I have found that we could
only produce worthwhile crops in fresh topsoil, raised beds or undercover in a
polytunnel. Attempting to grow straight into the soil on site proved to be very
unproductive. Despite single digging and adding manure and fertiliser we
struggled to produce crops. Many areas of our site were solid clay with rocks
with less than 10cm of top soil. The site was subject to waterlogging for most
of the year; which made it impossible to plant out seeds or crops. However,
during hot weather the clay soil would dry solid and cracks would form. Our
14m long polytunnel did provide a good growing space until 2012 when it
was flooded from below due to poor drainage in the field above us.
Unfortunately putting drainage pipes 500mm under the soil had no effect as
either the fine clay particles quickly blocked the drainpipes or the clay
prevented the water filtering down to the pipes at all.
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1.3 b) Action Needed
My experience has convinced me that sustained gardening is only possible
on this type of soil in this location if raised beds and fresh topsoil/organic
matter are used or a deep layer of 600mm topsoil is added across the whole
site to provide a base for growing.
Improving the ground Soil
The introduction of a base layer of hardcore/gravel of 30mm+ diameter
followed by fresh topsoil 600mm (2 foot) deep would provide a good base for
growing. This soil should then be mulched (covered) with a 50mm+ (2 inch)
layer of organic matter (manure, compost, leaf mould etc) each
autumn/winter to maintain its fertility and structure.
Raised Beds
Raised beds are often the best solution for young children and those with
limited physical strength as no digging is required to produce crops. Instead
of digging over, the raised beds should be covered with a layer of manure or
compost at least 50mm deep each autumn/winter. Worms and beetles will
then incorporate the manure into the soil in time for spring planting.
The other advantage of raised beds is that the soil will warm up more quickly
in the spring and drainage is greatly improved.
Raised beds should be a maximum of 1200mm (4 foot) wide for adults and
750 – 1000mm wide for young children so that they can reach across to plant
and weed without needing to tread on the soil.
The minimum height for a raised bed is 150mm, but again small children and
those will less physical mobility may prefer beds of at 300– 600mm high, which
provide a more comfortable working height. ‘Table top’ beds – raised up on
legs are a perfect adaptation for anyone in a wheelchair or who prefers to
garden while seated.
Paths between beds should be paved and be at least 1200mm (4 foot) wide
to provide good access for groups, wheelbarrows etc.
I recommend that the Community Garden includes a range of growing areas
(undercover space, raised beds of various heights and ground-level
allotments built on 600mm of fresh topsoil) to enable the maximum access
and enjoyment by members of the local community.
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2. POTENTIAL FOR SPECIALIST AREAS
2.1 Existing Woodland - Forest Garden/Forest School
There is a small area of young woodland next to the Community Garden
Facility which could be developed to become either
a Forest Garden – this is achieved through a long-term project via managing
the woodland and creating an environment that can produce food through
long-lived edible plants such as blackberries, raspberries and their hybrids,
currants, blueberries, elderberry, nut trees (such as hazel) which grow
naturally under larger trees. The initial planning and planting and ongoing
management would take time and would need to be done by a dedicated
local group, but the fruits could be harvested and enjoyed by local children
from the surrounding schools who use the Community Garden.
and/or
a Forest School – an outdoor play and learning resources for children.
Learning about woodlands and the natural environment fits well with the
National Curriculum and develops the skills and confidence in children to
enjoying playing outdoors and use the full range of their senses to explore
and find out about the plants, earth and wildlife found in a woodland.
Either of these options could use the Community Education Building as a base
from which to explore the woodland. By providing a building, toilet and hand
washing facilities the Loveclough Community Garden facility could
accommodate children from more distant Primary schools and children’s
centres for a full day’s outing.
2.2 Social Eating Area
An area could be provided for group barbeques and outdoor social
activities. Some picnic benches and built in barbeque and/or wood-burning
oven could allow groups to harvest and cook their food together.
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2.3 Sensory Garden
Most gardens stimulate some of our senses but a ‘Sensory Garden’ is
specifically designed to include stimulation for all five senses; sight, smell,
touch, taste and sound. Sensory gardens are design to be strolled through
and sat in, so they provide stimulation but also a sense of calm and
contentment. Both children and adults can enjoy the feeling of being in a
Sensory garden and it could be a special feature of the Community Garden
Facility to provide an easily accessible area where any member of the
community could come to sit, rest and enjoy being outside in a beautiful
setting. Those with dementia, suffering from stress or anxiety or on the Autistic
spectrum respond well to the gentle stimulation of a Sensory garden; which
provides an experience of nature in safe, contained environment.
To generate a calm environment it is important that a Sensory Garden on this
site has a good windbreak, I have suggested a good location on the map,
near the woodland and the public foot path. A circular design with raised
beds would create a pleasant seating area and the beds could include
herbs (for touch and taste), bamboos and tall grasses (for movement and
sound), pebble pond and small fountain (for sound), bulbs and long-lived
flowering plants could provide scent, texture and colour with climbing plants
and shrubs contributing to a range of sense-stimulation and giving a structure
to the garden.
Key plants for a sensory garden include:
Lavender, thyme, sage, rosemary, chives, mint, fennel
Strawberries
Tall grasses – Miscanthus and Panicum
Small grasses with fluffy seed heads – Stipa tenuissima, Pennisetum
Spring bulbs for colour and scent – snowdrops, daffodils, crocus, bluebells
Long-lived flowering plants: Sweet Rocket, Phlox, sweet peas, primroses,
Geranium macrorrhizum, Lilies, Oriental Poppy, Iris
Climbers - Honeysuckle, Jasmine, Clematis
Shrubs – Chinese Witch Hazel, Philadelphus, Lilac
Use hedging and ramped walls to give a sense of privacy and security.
Key landscaping features for a sensory garden include:
Good access and level paths with a hard surface (not gravel or woodchip)
Windbreak providing a sheltered seating area – chairs/benches with arm rests
Raised beds – a range of heights is needed to allow maximum access:
300mm – 600mm high for young children, 750mm high for wheelchair users,
1m high to allow for adults standing not to have to bend to touch plants (also
provide a toe hold for extra stability)
Paths 1200mm (4 foot) wide to allow for wheelchair and pedestrian passing.
Layout – allow adequate turning and resting places for wheelchairs.
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3. STRUCTURES
3.1 Undercover Growing Facility
The area allocated to this on the current plan is 70 sqm, which would provide
adequate space for groups to work under cover and store the seedlings and
plants they are growing. As mentioned in 1.2b) above, a polytunnel structure
would be preferable to a greenhouse as it avoids the possibility of broken
glass and small tears can be cheaply and easily repaired with tape. I would
recommend the following general specifications:
single span polytunnel at least 6400mm wide
working benches 900mm high for adults and 750mm high for young children
double doors at either end to allow for good access and air circulation
side ventilation netting with internal roll-down screens
1200mm wide, paved central path
staging to allow a large number of trays and pots to be stored
raised beds to maximise the growing season and reduce the need for digging
benches for plant storage and capillary matting
minimum of a 1000mm wide path around the outside of the polytunnel to
allow for maintenance. This path must be gravelled or paved to ensure that
weeds do not encroach on the undercover facility and sharp tools are not
used near to the polythene cover.
Irrigation should be planned into the structure with the following;
Standpipe with mains water for seedlings (clean water is crucial for seed
growing)
porous pipe in ground-level beds, raised beds and benches with capillary
matting
overhead sprinklers for staging/benches
manual hosepipes
3.2 Education building
The area currently allocated to this is approximately 10 sqm, which seems very
small if it is to be useful to groups. On the site there would be room for a
larger 10 x 7 metre building providing 70 square metres of space, which could
be allocated as follows;
7 x 7m – 49sqm for work space with benches, tables and a sink for hand
washing
7 x 3m - 21sqm for the storage of tools and materials and include hanging
racks for large tools and shelves/cupboards for smaller tools.
A larger building would also allow for water harvesting from the roof to be
directed to tanks for watering the allotment area – normal household water
barrels are unlikely to be sufficient. The increased roof area would also allow
for more solar panels on the south-facing side.
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3.2 a) Safe Storage
In order to make the building accessible and safe for a wide range of people
lockable cupboards must be provided for sharp tools and fertilisers or
chemicals (including oil and other lubricants). If any machinery is to be stored
in the building that must also be in a locked store, this includes electric drills as
well as larger equipment such as lawnmowers and strimmers etc. Any petrol
driven equipment must be kept well away from any source of sparks (either
naked flames or electrical switches or equipment) and securely locked away.
If petrol is to be stored on site it must be in a specialist locked cabinet (that
meets COSHH requirements) away from sources of fuel and outside buildings
regularly used by people. Ideally, only small quantities of fuel should be
stored near an educational facility and kept in safety cans that resist
explosion.
3.2 b) Working/education space
Benches could be fixed at waist height around the walls, with shelves
underneath for the storage of pots and trays etc. This would leave some
space in the centre of the space for moveable tables and stools or chairs.
Example of a work space with a mix of waist-high benches, with storage shelves underneath
and moveable tables.
The provision of electric sockets above the benches will allow for drills and
other equipment to be charged and also allow the use of heated
propagators to help seed germination.
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3.2 c) Provision of tools and equipment
If various groups are using the Community Education Building it would be cost
effective to have a central store of tools, materials and equipment that all
groups can use on their visits. A small charge could be made to each group
depending on the amount of visits they make and this fund could then be
used to replace and repair tools, equipment and materials.
Key tools
Digging spades and forks (for adults)
Border spades and forks (for children)
Hand trowels and Hand forks
Hoes
Rakes
Edging Irons
Secateurs
Loppers
Pruning saws
Key equipment
Wheelbarrows
Cleaning and lubricating equipment
Pots in a range of sizes 9cm diameter, 1 litre, 2 litre and 3 litre
Seed trays – full and half size and modular
Buckets
Watering cans
Watering hose with adjustable nozzle
Gloves in a range of sizes
Plant labels and permanent markers
Key Materials
Compost - for seed sowing
Well-rotted manure for raised beds and allotment area
Fertiliser – chicken manure pellets and seaweed feed
Sharp sand – for growing cuttings
Vermiculite – for seed sowing
3.2 d) Health and Safety
The follow would need to be provided to meet general health and safety
requirements
Fire Extinguisher and First Aid Box
Sink with mains water for hand washing
Good level of lighting to allow for precise tasks such as tool cleaning and
maintenance and seed sowing
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Heating should be provided if the building is used during cold weather (If a
wood burning stove is considered a safety grid must be installed around it. If
any petrol or petrol-driven machinery is to be stored in the building no
heating method with naked flames or electrical sparks can be allowed.)
3.3 Fencing
The land surrounding the area contains a range of wildlife including deer and
rabbits. Unfortunately these animals can destroy vegetable and fruit crops
very quickly. To avoid this a fence of at least 2400mm needs to be installed
around the growing area with chicken wire dug into the ground below it to a
depth of at least 300mm. Any gates also need to extend to ground level to
prevent rabbits from coming into the area.
4. LAYOUT OF THE COMMUNITY GARDENING AREA
The total land allocated to this area is approximately 900 square metres – just
less than quarter of an acre. Given that 300sqm could be given over to the
building, toilets, under cover area and Sensory Garden this would leave
600sqm for growing. This would provide plenty of space for several Primary
Schools and other groups to have some allocated land; such as well-being
clubs or activities for adults.
In my experience, allotments of the ‘traditional’ council size of 250 sqm are
frequently off-putting to beginner gardeners as the planning and
maintenance of such a large area can seem daunting, even overwhelming.
Children often respond well to having their ‘own’ plot – a manageable plot
would be 6sqm for a pair children visiting for weekly upkeep during the
growing season (Mid-March – Mid October). If a school was allocated 12 x 6
sqm plots (72 sqm) this would allow approximately 7 schools or groups/clubs
to have allocated growing space. Of course, groups could divide up their
space as they wish, but this allocation gives a realistic idea of the number of
groups that could be accommodated on site.
In addition to the open growing areas each group could also be allocated
space within the undercover growing area. At the suggested 70 sqm in size
this would give each of the 7 groups 10 sqm of space.
The ‘No dig’ method of growing would help to maintain the structure of the
soil and not disturb the new topsoil and expose the poor quality sub soil. This is
a simple and effective approach that requires existing soil is covered with
organic matter (compost, rotted manure, cardboard etc) over the
autumn/winter and then allowed to incorporate naturally into the soil
beneath through the action of worms and beetles etc. Vegetables plants
are grown directly into the organic matter in the spring and summer and the
patch is then mulched (covered) again each autumn/winter with at least
50mm of organic matter (compost or manure etc.) Beds/plots cultivated in
this way should be no more than 1200mm wide and not be trodden on (as
this destroys the structure of the soil). Access paths of at least 500mm can be
created by putting down thick cardboard or membrane.
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5. MANAGEMENT
Although the amount of land allocated to the Community Garden facility is
not large, there would need to be regular supervision and maintenance of
the site to
Co-ordinate group/clubs visits to the site
Ensure the education building is clean, safe and fit for purpose
Ensure the undercover growing area is maintained and watered as required
(daily watering may be required during hot weather and at least twice a
week during the growing season)
Order bulk supplies of manure, compost, pots, trays etc. and arranging for the
sharing of costs between users.
Organise community events and users’ meetings.
Find new users if groups withdrawn from using the facility.
Advise new groups on growing techniques and vegetable and fruit varieties
to choose.
Maintain any communal areas.
Check communal tools for damage and breakage and ensure that they are
maintained and replaced to meet health and safety requirements.
Ensure access and Health and Safety requirements for the site are met and
maintain a log of any incidents.
Ensure that the First Aid box is replenished.
Pennine Lancashire Community Farm manages a similar size of allotment plot
in Burnley, which is used by a variety of visitors including primary school
children and adults with learning disabilities and provides ‘Eco-Therapy’ for
anyone who could benefit from working outdoors with plants.
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6. FURTHER INFORMATION
Soil analysis website
https://www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes/
Forest Schools
http://kindlingplayandtraining.co.uk/
http://www.forestschools.com/
Forest Gardens
Planting an edible forest garden (USA)
http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/plant-edible-forest-garden-
permaculture.aspx?PageId=1
http://edibleforestgardens.com/about_gardening
Salford Biosphere Project
http://biosphericproject.com/
Chemical Storage cabinets
http://www.firstsafetysigns.co.uk/chemical-storage-cabinets
Explosion safe petrol can
http://www.firstbrands.co.uk/rhino-fuel-cans.html
‘No Dig’ Method of vegetable gardening
http://www.charlesdowding.co.uk/
Pennine Lancashire Community Farm
http://www.penninelancashirecommunityfarm.org/
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Sensory Garden –
seating and raised beds
Larger Education Building
– includes storage and
gives more space for
solar panels
Single Span Polytunnel with
central path inside
1000mm wide paved path
around polytunnel
Allotment area – to be
split into 7 group plots
Area for Forest Garden
or Forest School
Windbreak – planted to the West and
South of the area and down the centre
of the allotments – 3000mm high.
7. SUGGESTED ALTERATIONS TO THE LAYOUT OF THE COMMUNITY GARDEN
FACILITY
Social eating area
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