apparel manufacturing process
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Apparel ProductionOverview
Khushboo Priyambada
Introduction
Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw
materials, product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated
technologies.
Companies range from small family business to multinationals.
The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.
Introduction to Garment Manufacturing
Merchandising department
Sampling department
Trims and accessories
store department
Spreading & Cutting
department
Sewing department
Washing department
Finishing & Packaging
departmentMaintenance Department
Finance and Accounts
DepartmentHR/Admin
Department
Departments in garment manufacturing unit
Process flow in garment manufacturing unitBuyer-
Supplier Meeting
Production order placed
Sampling
BOM generation
for po
Raw material
procurement
Raw material
inspectionFabric
washingPre
production sample
ProductionShipment
sample
Finishing Packing Shipment
Merchandising department
Process flow in merchandising department Receipt of
the techpack
BOM draft for
sampling Pattern making
Raw material
procurement
Raw material
inspection
Proto sample
development
Getting approval on proto sample
Fit sample making
Getting the fit
sample approved
BOM draft for
production
Approval sample
developmentOrder
approved for
production
Getting approvals on size set
samples
Raw material
procurement
R aw material
inspection
GPT/FPT to
conform to
standards
Approval on pre
production sample
Order file transferred to the
production
department
Follow up with the
production
department
Send shipment samples to the buyer
Follow up with the
production
department till
delivery
Responsibilities of a merchandiserMerchandiser
Internal & external communication
Sampling
Preparing internal order sheets
Accessories & trims
Preparing purchase orders
Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms
Advising and assisting production and quality department
Mediating production and quality departments
Helping documentation
Taking responsibility for inspections
Giving shipping instructions and following shipment
Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1.asp
Sampling department
Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
Checking pattern’s workability.
Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.
Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.
Minimizing operations and consumption.
Responsibilities of sampling department
Types of sample prepared
• This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.• Design development is either done by buyer or factory• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
Design development
• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based on proto sample .
• Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the style.
• It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then checked on the dress form.
• The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc.
Proto sample
• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and for approval of construction details.
• The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used.
Fit sample
• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
• Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
Photo shoot sample
• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.• In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need
to be used.• This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends
upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
• The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the sample in all sizes
• 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.Size set sample
• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to ensure the performance of the garment.
• GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as buyer.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
GPT sample (Garment Performance Test)
• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.• It has to be made in original fabric and trims• Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.• PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be
identical to PP sample.• The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of
preproduction sample.
Pre- production sample
• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after washing. Wash sample
• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing line.
• In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
TOP sample (Top of Production)
• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual shipment and sent to buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Shipment sample
Types of sample prepared
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
Fabric store department
Functions of the fabric store department
Receive the fabric as per BOM
Fabric inspection (four point system)
Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)
Issue to the production department as per the requirement
10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net
fabric.
Inspection for production order fabric as per buyer’s
requirement.
Perform GSM cutting.
Perform shrinkage test.
Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.
Check fabric roll for the defects.
Allocate points to the defects.
Fabric audit procedure
The fabrics are checked for:
Width
Shade (centre to se
lvedge)
Weaving defects
Shrinkage (st
eam & fusing)
Trims and accessoriesStore department
Functions of the trims and accessories department
To receive incoming material.
To check material for attribute & variables.
To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other material
as per requirement.
To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.
Spreading andcutting department
Spreading and cutting flow process
Planning Spreading Cutting Preparation for sewing
Planning
Spreading
Cutting
Preparation for sewing
Spreads
Markers
Production
Manual
Machine
Machine
Manual
Ticketing
Bundles
Spreading and cutting flow process
Planning
Spreads Markers Production
It translates customer orders into cutting orders
minimize total production costs
meet deadlines
seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space
Cut order planning
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability
Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making
Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization
Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel
Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting
Cutting orders leads to
Marker planning Lay planning
The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut
planning.
The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and
shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.
Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:
table length,
type of equipment,
spread length,
spreading time and
cutting time.
Marker planning
Marker
is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes
to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making
is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)
Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low
as possible.
It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These
include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such
as drill holes and notches.
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save or
waste thousands of dollars a year.
Marker making
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Markers types: Blocks or Sections
Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
Continuous Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.
Marker making
Block or section marker
Continuous marker
Markers types:
Open marker
Marker made with full pattern pieces.
Closed marker
Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).
Marker making
Closed marker
Marker making
Manually produced Computerized marker making (CAD)
Manual marker Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply
Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.
Time consuming.
Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)
Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.
Marker making
Accurate
Shortest response time.
Direct or digitized.
Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions
Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.
Can be printed/recalled/modified.
Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.
Computerised markerMarker making
Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way
The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is
made with every pattern placed with the “down”
direction of the pattern in the same direction.
This mode is necessary for fabrics that are
asymmetric.
All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down”
direction, which is usually toward the left edge
(starting point where the legend is written).
The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but
least efficient of the three nap directions for a marker.
Marker making
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is
made where there is no restriction of which way the
pattern are oriented.
The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”,
placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that
the patterns are on-grain.
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most
efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization.
Marker making
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down
The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D)
is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way marker,
but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way
marker.
In order to get a better fit between the patterns,
alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in
opposite directions.
This method is yields moderately good fabric
utilization, and good quality.
Marker making
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100% Total area of the marker plan
It is determined for fabric utilization
Minimum waste
Marker Efficiency
Marker making
Factors affecting marker efficiency
Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)
Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)
Grain requirements
Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting
table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Spreading
Requirement of spreading
Shade sorting of cloth pieces
Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
Alignment of plies
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric faults
Avoidance of distortion in the spread
Spreading equipment
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin
table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines
Spreading equipment
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines
Spreading
Spreading
Manual Machine
In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, if it is a roll, may be
supported by a frame and carried along the
table where the end is secured by weights
or by clamps.
The operators work back from the end,
aligning the edges and ensuring that there
is no tension and that there are no wrinkles.
Manual spreading
Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to
end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time on the
spread.
Spreading machines may include:
A motor to drive
A platform on which the operator rides
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of
ply in place
A ply counter
An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides
A turntable
A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the
speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric
being spread.
Machine spreading
Spreading Mode
Nap one way & face one way spreading
Nap either way & face to face spreading
Nap one-way face to face spreading
Nap either way & face one way spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.
Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators
(thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of cutting table.
While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the
rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to starting
position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading machine is called
as “dead heading”
Spreading
Face one way Nap one way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading
The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.
Difficult to achieve manually.
The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher, at
layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the fabric
is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also.
Spreading
Face to face
Nap either way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005
Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
Most time consuming method of spreading.
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and
return back to starting position without.
Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.
Spreading
Face to face
Nap one way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start
spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead heading
by the machine in this spreading mode.
Spreading
Nap either way
Face one way
Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”, 2005
Labour cost
Fabric waste
Splicing loss
End loss
Width loss
Spreading costs
Spreading
Cutting
CuttingManualScissors
MachinePortable cutting knivesStraight knife
Round knife
Stationary cuttersBand knife
Die cutting
Servo cutting
Plasma cutting
Water jet
cutting
Laser cutting
Position markersNotchers
Drills and thread markers
Cutting
Scissors
Manual cutting
Straight knife
Power system
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Handle
Up and down movement
Sharpening
Base plateRound knife
One way thrust as the circular blade makes contact with the fabric
Cutting
Portable cutting knives
Vertical blade
Reciprocates up and down
Corners and curves can be cut accurately
Most versatile and commonly used
Blades length - 6 to 14 inches
Spread depth depends on blade length &
adjustable height of the blade guard
All of the pieces cut from a lay are
identical
CuttingPortable cutting knives
Popular, light and fast.
Suitable only for cutting in straight lines
or very gradual curves, in depths of
about 15cm
Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or
bulky material, or lower lays of harder
material such as shirts
Small blade cuts single layer
A round blade contacts the spread at
an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before
the bottom ply
Straight knife Round knife
Cutting Stationary cutters: Band knife Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band
Fabric layers are guided by hand against the blade
Air cushion is provided below the fabric layers
Plies are stapled together to prevent slippage
Used for precision cutting to a depth of up to 300mm
Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are cut
precisely
Band knives are more accurate for small blocks or for
shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks
Overhead servo motor
Adjustable speed
Suspension system that
supports the knife perpendicular
to the cutting table
Knife is mounted on a swivel arm
It combines vertical cutting and
band knife cutting into one
machine
Cutting Stationary cutters: Servo cutting
Cutting
Dies are pre – shaped metal outlines
Most accurate
Die cutting operation involves
Placement of fabric
Positioning the die on the fabric
Engaging the machine to press the die
into the fabric
Used mainly for leather, coated and laminated
materials
Areas where the same patterns are used over
a long period, e.g. collar, pocket flaps
Stationary cutters: Die cutting
Cutting
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Problems – same as for laser cutting
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Stationary cutters: Plasma cutting
Cutting
Very high velocity, fine stream of water
High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact
As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum decreases and cutting
ability is reduced frayed edges
Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality
Leather, plastic, vinyl
High equipment costs
Stationary cutters: Water jet cutting
Cutting
Notches can be cut by straight knife too but
accuracy is required
Specialized notching equipment provides
greater accuracy because a guide lines up the
notcher with the cut edge
Hot notcher consists of a heating element
(blade) that slightly scorches the fibers adjacent
to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)
Two types of notches:
Straight notch and V-notch
Position markers: Notchers
Cutting
Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a hole and spirit
level
Used for reference markers needed away from the edge of a
garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.
A hole is drilled through the lay
Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible until the sewing
operator comes to use it
Loose weave – hot drill is used which slightly scorches or fuse
the edges of the hole Hypodermic (or dye spot) drill – leaves small deposit of paint on each ply of fabric
ALL drill holes must eventually be concealed by the construction of the garment
Position markers: Drills and thread markers
Preparationfor sewing
Ticketing Bundles
Ticketing Tickets carry details : style no, size,
ply no, bundle no., date issued
Operations may be incorporated for
payment purposes, control of work
and facilitating quality control
Preparation for sewing
Preparation for sewingBundling Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done
Order no. 6015
Bundle no. 1430
Quantity 12
Style no. 3145
Size 12
Section collar
Bundle ticket consists of :
Sewing department
Sewing process flowCut parts
received from the cutting
room
Bulk production
beginsIn line
inspection
End line checking
Button-button hole/ bartack
Rough checking Ironing
Final checkingMeasurement checking
Tagging PackingQA audit by the buying
house
Ex - factory
Sewing departmentSewing department
Production system Seams and stitches
Production systemMake through system
Conventional bundle system
Clump system
Progressive bundle system
Flexible flow system
Straight line system
Synchro flow system
Unit production system
Modular manufacturing system
Production system: Make through system It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes right through
one garment at a time.
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Conventional bundle system
Sewing machines are arranged in lines.
The work flows from the central (store) area to the first
machine, from the first machine back to the store, and
then on to the next machine, and so forth.
A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for
receiving and dispatching the work.
The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a bag, or
the garment parts may be wrapped and tied.
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Clump system
A worker collects a clump of materials from the
worktable and carries out the first operation.
After he has completed his part of the work, he
returns it to the table.
A worker for the second operation then continues the
work and so on.
The process is ' collection - work -return' continues
until the whole garment has been assembled.
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Progressive bundle system
Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties
the bundle and passes it to the next operator.
There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for
storing the inter-process work between each
operation.
The work is routed by means of tickets.
This system is the most widely used system in the
garment industry today. It is used in shirt factories,
jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Flexible flow system A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work in
a rack at the side, work at an engineered work place.
The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work
can be planned using the correct number of operators in
sequence.
For style A garments, the work distributed after operation 1
can be distributed to the two operators performing
operation 2. On completion, the work from both workers is
then sent to operator 3. After operation 3, the work is
continued by the two operators performing operation 4 and
so on.
When a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the
number of operators needed for each operation must be
planned in detail to ensure a balanced output.
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Straight line system
The manufacturing process is broken down into several
operations, which take the same time to complete.
Groups of operators are required to handle only
individual garments.
The garment parts pass from one operator to the next,
until the garment has been completely made up by one
group of operators.
The central distribution unit may be a fixed table or a a
conveyor belt (its speed will be set to suit the cycle
time).
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Synchro flow system
Garment parts of the same size and color are
processed separately.
Different garment parts can be processed
simultaneously for assembling.
At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc.,
from other lines also go down a central line.
The different garment parts are then processed
together to form completed garments.
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Unit production system
A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.
It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual
units from work-station to work station for assembly.
All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by
means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.
Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier.
Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying and
untying, and manually moving garment parts.
Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory
data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt
decision.
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Modular manufacturing
system
Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams,
or modules.
The team works on one/a few garment at a time
instead of a bundle of garments.
The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate to
different machines as they work, becoming familiar
with multiple steps in producing the garment.
Sewing department
Source: ApparelKey.com
Seams and stitches
Sewing Machine
Throat plate
Stitch regulator
Presser footNeedle guard
Take-up lever
Reversing leverNeedle
Tension discs/check-spring
Thumb-nut screw
Needle bar
Machine bed
Thread-guides
Throat plate
Presser Foot
Feed Dog
Needle
Needle Bar
Needle Eye
Sewing Machine
Sewing Machine
Stitch forming devices
Stitch Device used
Lock stitch Bobbin hook
Chain stitch Looper
Over lock Looper and spreader
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Sewing Machine
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
The bobbin of a lock stitch machine
Sewing MachineMachine beds
Raised bedFlat bed
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Cylinder bed Feed of arm
Sewing Machine
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Machine beds
Sewing Machine
Post bed
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Machine beds
Seams & Stitches Garments are shaped and formed in three ways:
materials molded to a form,
fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by bonding, and
pieces cut to shape and sewn.
For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S government
developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current use. The United States Federal
Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal Standard 751a) were adopted in 1965.
The British Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings was also
developed about the same time.
The Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by ASTM D 6193, Standards Related to
Stitches and Seams.
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions:
A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.
A stitching consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for ornamental purposes or
finishing an edge or both.
Seams & Stitches
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.
To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or characteristics closely
allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type together with the
correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end-product is of paramount
importance.
Seams & Stitches
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Seams
Strength: a seam must be strong. Strength is usually measured in two directions: across the
seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along the seam (longitudinal strength).
Extensibility
Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear easily during
everyday use of the garment
Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel during everyday use of the garment
Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an unobtrusive and
efficient manner with no discontinuity in physical properties or appearance.
Balance
Seams & Stitches
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Physical properties of seam
Seams & Stitches
Superimposed seam
Lap seam
Bound seam
Flat seam
Edge finishing
Superimposed seam
Bound seam
Lap seam
Flat seam
Edge finishing
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Classification of seams
Stitch properties
Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth.
Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can be an indicator of
quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means long stitches. Generally, the greater
the spi, the more the holding power and seam strength.
Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation of one stitch or
single line of stitching. Stitches that have width dimensions require multiple needles or
lateral movement of thread carriers such as the needle bars, loopers or spreaders.
Stitch depth is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch. It is a
factor for blind stitches.
Seams & Stitches Stitches
Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.
Seams & Stitches
Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)
Stitch classification
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
101 Class One thread Basting, or light construction
103 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
104 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
100 Class stitch: Single thread chain stitch
Using one needle thread and one blind looper
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/100cl.htm
Seams & Stitches Stitch classification
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/200cl.htm
Seams & Stitches Stitch classification
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
202 Class One Thread Basting, tacking or repairs
205 Class One Thread Pick stitch - topstitching
200 Class stitch: Single thread hand sewn stitch
Using one needle thread
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/300cl.htm
Seams & Stitches Stitch classification
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
301 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies
304 Class Two thread Zig-zag stitch; a stretch lockstitch
306 Class Two thread Blind stitch
315 Class Two threads Three step zig-zag
300 Class stitch: Two or more thread lock stitch
Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/400cl.htm
Seams & Stitches Stitch classification
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
401 Class Two threadsSeaming multiple
plies with moderate stretch
404 Class Two threads Topstitching or seaming with stretch
406 Class Three threads"Bottom cover stitch;
a (greater) stretch chain stitch
400 Class stitch: Multi-thread chain stitch
Using one or more needle threads and one or more looper threads
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/500cl.htm
Seams & Stitches Stitch classification
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
501 Class One thread One needle over edge stitch for serging / “blanket stitch"
502 Class Two thread One needle over edge stitch for serging
503 Class Two thread Over edge stitch for serging with crossover on edge of fabric
504 Class Three thread Over edge stitch for serging and light seaming
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/500cl.htm
Seams & Stitches Stitch classification
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
512 Class Four Thread Mock safety stitch for seaming with wide bite and greater stretch for knits
514 Class Four Thread Over edge stitch for seaming with wide bite and greater stretch for knits
515 Class Four Thread True safety stitch for seaming with good stretch for wovens and knits
516 Class Five Thread True safety stitch for seaming with good stretch for wovens and knits
Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/600cl.htm
Seams & Stitches Stitch classification
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
602 Class Four thread Cover stitch or seaming knits
605 Class Five thread Cover stitch
607 Class Six thread Wide cover stitch
600 Class Stitch: Multi-thread cover stitches
Quality department
Responsibilities of quality department To impart quality in the product.
To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials, partially
finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to
some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to
check if they meet the required measurements.
Quality department
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Inspection
Detection of defects
Feedback of these defects
to appropriate personnel
Determination of causes of
defects
Correction of defects
Quality departmentPrinciple of inspection (inspection loop)
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
No inspection
100% inspection
Spot checking- inspecting random shipments
Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling
Statistical sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to the amount of
inspection to be performed
Quality department How much to inspect ?
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot or batch, the
units of the sample being selected at random without regards to their quality. The number
of units of a product in the sample is the sample size.
Lot or batch: Means ‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’, that is a collection of units of a
product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected.
Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a lot or batch
Percent defective = Number of defectives × 100
Number of units inspected
Quality department Inspection terms
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item
to be second.
Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as a second either
because of severity or location.
Second: A ‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the saleability or
serviceability of the item.
Quality department Identification of defects
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Possible Pattern Defects:
Pattern parts missing
Mixed parts
Patterns not facing in the correct direction
on napped fabrics
Patterns not all facing in the same
direction on a one-way fabric
Patterns not aligned with respect to the
fabric grain
Line definition poor
Quality department Spreading defects
Skimpy marking
Generous marking
Marker too wide
Not enough knife clearance
freedom
Mismatched checks and stripes
Notches and drill marks omitted,
indistinct, or misplaced
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Frayed edges
Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges
Ply-to-ply fusion
Single-edge fusion
Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut
Notches
Drills
Quality department Cutting defects
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Needle Damage
Feed Damage
Skipped stitches
Thread breaks
Broken stitches
Seam grin
Seam pucker
Quality department Sewing defects
Pleated seams
Wrong stitch density
Uneven stitch density
Staggered stitch
Improperly formed stitches
Oil spots or stains
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
Insecure back stitching
Twisted seam
Mismatched checks or stripes
Mismatched seam
Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam
Reversed garment part
Blind stitching showing on the face side
Wrong seam or stitch type used
Wrong shade of thread used
Quality department Seaming defects
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Finished components nor correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.
Finished garment not to size
Parts, components, closures or features omitted
Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned
Interlining incorrectly positioned
Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,
Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness
Garment parts shaded
Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction
Mismatched trimming
Quality department Assembly defects
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Open seams
Skipped stitches
Cracked stitches
Stitches/inch
Uneven seams
Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams
Needle and feed cuts
Unclipped threads and Long ends
Raw edge
Quality department Checks for final inspection
Snaps, fasteners, buttons
Labels
Elastic
Measurements
Mends or repairs
Stripe
Hems
Trim
Broken needle
Distortion
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection
can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be
accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used.
Quality department AQL: Accepted quality level
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Sample size code letters
Lot or Batch Size Sample size code letter
2 to 8 A
9 to 15 B
16 to 25 C
26 to 50 D
51 to 90 E
91 to 150 F
151 to 280 G
281 to 500 H
501 to 1200 J
1201 to 3200 K
3201 to 10000 L
10001 to 35000 M
Quality departmentAQL: Accepted quality level
Sampling PlansSample Size Code
LetterSample
Size Acceptable Quality Level 2.5 4 6.5 10 Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22
Quality department AQL: Accepted quality level
Finishing and packaging department
Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look.
In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes.
It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free
from defects.
Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.
Finishing and packaging department
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments.
Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut threads.
Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:
Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum boards.
Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing equipments.
Finishing and packaging department Operations performed at finishing stage
Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Tagging and packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing section. It
is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagging operators with
the appropriate price and brand tags. He also instructs the tagging operator as to where
and how the tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind while
placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag.
The step after the tagging is to pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer.
Finishing and packaging department
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Operations performed at finishing stage
Presentation checking and cartoon packing
It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check the
packed garments for the following things:
Poly bags are as per specification.
Tags and price stickers are as per specification.
Packing is secured or not if specified.
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
Hangers are there or not if specified.
Garment has been folded as per specification etc.
Finishing and packaging department
Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”
Operations performed at finishing stage
Finishing and packaging department
Presentation checking and cartoon packing
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things
are kept in mind during carton packing:
Number of garments to be packed in one carton.
Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1
Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.
Closing the cartons with cello tape.
Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.
Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net
weight of the carton etc.
Operations performed at finishing stage
Thank you
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